[Chevelle-List] Seat Belt Help
Can someone with a '66 tell me how long the front seat belts. I need the measurement for each the male and female parts. Also did a '66 come equipped with retractors? I bought some aftermarket belts from Andover that was susposed to be the correct length, but the male end seems way too long (maybe because of the lack of retractors?). The rear belts I got from them seem to be fine. Ron My '66 http://home.attbi.com/~cutter169/chevelle_page.htm Team Chevelle #1668 ACES #5205 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] '69 front tire
What is the widest tire I could put on the front of my ’69 Chevelle with 17” wheels. Thanks Michael
Re: [Chevelle-List] A little help, please...
I may be oversimplifying, but have you checked for a vacumn leak. I hafd a similar symptom and thats what it was. After changing everything in the ignition :( . rick On Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:09:39 -0700 "Bill Bruyn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > Hiya list, > > So I'm kind of a beginning hot rodder. That is to say, I just > bought the > car I've always wanted - a 67 Malibu (okay, I would have liked to > have an > SS, but don't tell her that. :o] ) but I don't know much about what > I'm > doing yet. Too bad for me, because she's a little under the > weather, and I > need to make her well. > > I've been lurking in the shadows on this list for a while now, and > my first > post is to ask you folks for a little help. Please be gentle - I > told you, > I'm learning. :o] > > A long story real short: She runs a little rough, esp at low RPMs, > and I > have an emissions problem with hydrocarbons at idle. The whole car > shakes a > little bit. I looked at several different things before I > disconnected the > wires from the cap one at a time with the motor running. You really > don't > notice much difference on #8 unless you also disconnect another > cylinder. > You really have to strain to hear any difference - not like the > other > cylinders. i.e., it fires, but not strong enough so that you notice > it > unless the motor is really struggling. I swapped plugs and plug > wires with > #6 cylinder and had the same results, so I guess that brings me back > to > compression? > > Cranking compression test results were okay when I tested them > before, but > I've never done a leakdown test. I don't have a tester or a > compressor (but > I guess those are my next steps, eh?) > > This is really not what I was hoping to find. What are the best case > / worst > case scenarios you guys, and what's it gonna cost me? Could it be > something > simple? > > I left the details on my application out for brevity's sake, but I'm > happy > to supply them if it helps. > > TIA, > > Bill Bruyn > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
An easy way to do this procedure is set your engine at TDC on number one, you can than set exhaust on 1,3,4,8 intake on 1,2,5,7 than turn the engine one full revolution back to TDC you will now be in the firing position for mumber 6, than do exhaust on 2,5,6,7, and intake on 3,4,6,8, simple as that,this is the procedure from any shop manual you might find, this is also the accepted practice that any Chevrolet shop would use. now that you know what order to do them in, back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod,turn the adjusting nut in until all lash is gone, when all endplay is gone between pushrod and rocker arm, than turn adjusting nut an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn and your done. Rocky Hill My66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss --- Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Jeff, > > I'm about to undertake the same project here. I'm > going to set the motor to > TDC on #1 (both valves closed) and check the tension > on the pushrods. I'll > then swap on the rollers on #1, and adjust to the > same tension. Rotate > crankshaft clockwise 90 degrees. Now do #8 the same > way. Repeat for each > cylinder in the firing order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). I'm > sure my method is > overly-tedious, but I'm not sure how else to do it. > Maybe someone with a > solid cam (ie- someone who does lots of valve > adjustments!) can offer a > quicker method? > > -Dave > > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf > Of Jeff Bisnett > Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 12:50 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers > > > Hi Guys > > I had my 327 rebuilt and put it back in the car can > anyone tell me the best > way to set or adjust the roller rockers. I'm using > hydraulic lifters. > > Thanks > > Jeff 67 Malibu > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit > www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
Go here for instruction by Crane Cams http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/camvt.htm#Rocker%20Arms Keith - Original Message - From: Jeff Bisnett To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 12:49 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers Hi Guys I had my 327 rebuilt and put it back in the car can anyone tell me the best way to set or adjust the roller rockers. I'm using hydraulic lifters. Thanks Jeff 67 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
Dave My only problem is I just got the motor back from the machine shop there are no rockers on it now to check tension or get any idea. Any other suggestion would be great. Thanks Jeff - Original Message - From: "Dave Studly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 1:32 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers > Jeff, > > I'm about to undertake the same project here. I'm going to set the motor to > TDC on #1 (both valves closed) and check the tension on the pushrods. I'll > then swap on the rollers on #1, and adjust to the same tension. Rotate > crankshaft clockwise 90 degrees. Now do #8 the same way. Repeat for each > cylinder in the firing order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). I'm sure my method is > overly-tedious, but I'm not sure how else to do it. Maybe someone with a > solid cam (ie- someone who does lots of valve adjustments!) can offer a > quicker method? > > -Dave > > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jeff Bisnett > Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 12:50 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers > > > Hi Guys > > I had my 327 rebuilt and put it back in the car can anyone tell me the best > way to set or adjust the roller rockers. I'm using hydraulic lifters. > > Thanks > > Jeff 67 Malibu > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
Tom He will need the back seat out of a 66/67 chevelle,skylark/cutlas,lemans etc.The seat is different because of the room needed for the top mechanism and rams. Grant - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers > Hello > >Have a friend that has a question. Would the back seats from a Malibu SS > Hardtop fit into a Malibu SS Convertible? > > Tom > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
Hello Have a friend that has a question. Would the back seats from a Malibu SS Hardtop fit into a Malibu SS Convertible? Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
Jeff, I'm about to undertake the same project here. I'm going to set the motor to TDC on #1 (both valves closed) and check the tension on the pushrods. I'll then swap on the rollers on #1, and adjust to the same tension. Rotate crankshaft clockwise 90 degrees. Now do #8 the same way. Repeat for each cylinder in the firing order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). I'm sure my method is overly-tedious, but I'm not sure how else to do it. Maybe someone with a solid cam (ie- someone who does lots of valve adjustments!) can offer a quicker method? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jeff Bisnett Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 12:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Roller rockers Hi Guys I had my 327 rebuilt and put it back in the car can anyone tell me the best way to set or adjust the roller rockers. I'm using hydraulic lifters. Thanks Jeff 67 Malibu - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Disc brake question
Hello Guys & Gals. Got a disc brake question for you. I have a 66 Chevelle Malibu that I will be putting front disc brakes to. Right now the rotors are off a 72 Cutlass. I have the oppurtunity to acquire calipers , proportioning valve and master cyclinder from a 70 Chevy Van. What I need to know would this setup work ? I know you can interchange cars , but can you interchange from a van to a car. I may have to rebuild the master cylinder it holding fluid now or would it be wiser to buy a new master cylinder? Another question also if anyone out there has to patch panels for a 66 Chevelle fairly reasonable I be interested, need left and right fender patches. Thanks againJohn
Re: [Chevelle-List] A little help, please...
Bill, I'd hold off on the leakdown test for awhile unless you have the capability to do it easily now. Check the plugs for signs of misfire, flooding or fouling, etc & double check the gap. Also remember... just because parts are relatively new doesn't mean they're not bad. Double check your compression test & see if all cylinders are equal. I like to do it two ways... crank the engine (with comp tester installed) but only let the tested cylinder "fire" once (you'll be able to tell when it hits by the sound) & check the reading. Then zero the gauge & crank it over until the tested cylinder fires 3 times & check the reading. Do the same for all cylinders & see if you get equal readings for both tests. If they come out low you can try a "wet" test by squirting a little oil into the cylinder before the test. If the oil brings up the reading any substantial amount you probably have a ring problem. If the cylinders are unequal you probably have a valve problem. If everything checks out equal & close to specs then it is probably a spark, timing or fuel problem. The spark is the easiest to track down & fix. That's why I suggested the new tune up first. It is also the most likely problem most of the time. Try to describe to the list exactly what the problem is & when it occurs. Does it stumble? idle rough? miss under load or acceleration? is the miss continuous or intermittant? does it smoothe out at high rpm? does it sound like a solid misfire or just run "rough"? Are the lifters "clicking"? As far as the valve adjustment, it's easy enough to do on a small block if they're hydraulic lifters. Start the engine & let it warm up, back off each rocker nut until it starts clicking, then tighten it until it stops & then tighten it 1/2 turn more. The one thing you said in your original letter was that when you removed the #8 wire it made little difference. That tells me that the #8 cylinder is probably the culprit & I'd guess it's a faulty wire or plug. Let us know what you find out. AND Welcome to the list!! Don The plug wires are 7.5mm Autolites that were on there when I got the car, and I have the receipt for them and the cap - both relatively new. The plugs are new. Points check out okay. I have 9.5 volts into the coil, so was going to replace the coil last (I have one sitting on the bench waiting for me). I guess I could replace the rotor while I'm at it... If it were a spark issue though, you'd think I'd see it on more than one cylinder, right? Again, unless it was a plug or wire. Or a bad terminal on the cap? (reaching...) The advice I'm getting from the fellas at ChevyTalk is to check valve adjustment. Other suggestions? Is a leakdown test in order?
Re: [Chevelle-List] Convertible top
Isn't the fluid add on a manual top next to the power window crank ?
Re: [Chevelle-List] Engine Compartment
I use Eastwoods Underhood Black. It's a satin finish semi-gloss. I think GM makes a Recondition Black as well. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 71 Chevele mirror-BAD
Ok, So if Chevrolet does come out with a reproduction of the Chevelle, let us them to fix the mirror, but leave the rest of it only. Keith - Original Message - From: "wbainey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:50 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 71 Chevele mirror-BAD > My 5" cowl makes you rubber neck to see the front right...bad mistake going > more than 3 1/2 on the hood. > Walt > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > >Yea, on my '69 I'm looking straight into it, I have to look under or > >over it which is a problem. I'm going to look for a mirror that either > >has a short mounting arm, or one that mounts to the windshield. I need > >to get something smaller and higher mounted. > > > >BTW: with a 4" cowl hood, this is a bit of a problem. :-) > > > >Keith Cooper wrote: > > > >> I am going to have to be more careful. That 12" rearview mirror on my > >> car causes a blind spot. Twice I have started to pull out or go, only > >> to find a car turning in front of me. That big mirror and the mounting > >> spot causes a blind spot. I think I will have to try the 11" mirror to > >> see if it is better.Anyone else have this problem with the rearview > >> mirror?[EMAIL PROTECTED] See my Chevelle: > >> http://home.mindspring.com/~keithc/index.html > > > >-- > > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com > > and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html > > Tremec Distributor at http://www.tremectransmissions.com/ > > Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Roller rockers
Hi Guys I had my 327 rebuilt and put it back in the car can anyone tell me the best way to set or adjust the roller rockers. I'm using hydraulic lifters. Thanks Jeff 67 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-List] A little help, please...
Thanks, Don. Well, let's see. What do you want to know? I'm in Gilbert, AZ. I don't have a lot of mechanical experience / background - I've done a lot of the typical maintenance-type things, etc., but I still get intimidated by the internals. I've got the fever though, and the only way I know to get over these things is to do them, so I'm proceeding with caution. :o] I'm learning a lot between this list and various websites, ChevyTalk.com being my favorite. For a little light reading, check out my post there at http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008451.html I tease my brother about building a Honda Killer, but I'm really just after style that's fun to drive. i.e., I'm not trying to build a race car here. I haven't weighed the car, but I think that 350 HP / 400 ft lbs would be fun. >From what I've learned so far, that seems pretty do-able for a guy with my experience and budget. A little backgound on my car, since you asked. I am the 3rd owner of a 1967 Malibu. It was a Wyoming car for much of it's life and then spent some time in New Mexico before landing here in AZ. She's got some rust, but at levels I felt were acceptable for a 35 year old car. Trunk, fenders, passenger rocker - you guys know the drill. None of it too bad, and I got a lot of replacement sheet metal in the deal. The original owner butchered the dash when he tried to install an AUDIOVOX cd player (Why, I oughtta...) and the next guy THREW AWAY the original bench seat to install some bad buckets. Otherwise, the interior is all original, and kind of beat up. The last guy spent a lot of money on suspension components - new Hotchkis springs, PST poly bushings, KYB shocks, and sway bars on front and back. The original Powerglide was tired and needed a rest, so it's in a box in my garage. I've installed a performance-built 2004R in it's place, and am able to grab second now, even with only 7 cylinders and questionable tuning. I thought I'd leave the 3.08 limited slip there, as I'm driving it daily (if I ever can get through emissions). I've got 4 new 235/60/14 Road Huggers on the old 14 x 7 Cragar SS wheels that were on the car when I bought it. I'll probably go with 17s when I get ready to convert to power disc fronts next year. The original 327 block is still there, and was supposedly bored .030 over when it was rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago. I found the head casting number, and it looks like they came off a Goodwrench 350. Don't know what, if anything, was done to them before they found their way onto my 327. I have no idea what cam I'm dealing with, but I guess it's pretty mild. I've got a new 750cfm Q-Jet on there now, and I'll be swapping the stock intake for a Performer RPM here in the next few days. I've done a bunch of miscellaneous things too - exhaust gaskets, thermostat, plugs, etc. Whew. Sorry you asked, huh? :o] So, back to the problem. The plug wires are 7.5mm Autolites that were on there when I got the car, and I have the receipt for them and the cap - both relatively new. The plugs are new. Points check out okay. I have 9.5 volts into the coil, so was going to replace the coil last (I have one sitting on the bench waiting for me). I guess I could replace the rotor while I'm at it... If it were a spark issue though, you'd think I'd see it on more than one cylinder, right? Again, unless it was a plug or wire. Or a bad terminal on the cap? (reaching...) The advice I'm getting from the fellas at ChevyTalk is to check valve adjustment. Other suggestions? Is a leakdown test in order? - Original Message - From: Don To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 4:25 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] A little help, please... Hi ya Bill First things first. Tell us about yourself & your car. What size engine is it? Is it stock? If not, what's been done to it? What you describe could be a number of things. If you've tested the compression & you're sure it is ok then that leaves fuel & spark. If the valves, springs or cam are a problem it will usually show up in a compression test. The cheapest & simplest thing to do is install NEW plugs, plug wires, coil, distributor cap, rotor & points if it has them. None of this is very expensive & this will probably fix the problem. If it doesn't, then you'll have to delve a little farther but at least you'll know your ignition system is good. Good luck & don't be shy about asking questions of the list. Don > Hiya list,> > So I'm kind of a beginning hot rodder. That is to say, I just bought the> car I've always wanted - a 67 Malibu (okay, I would have liked to have an> SS, but don't tell her that. :o] ) but I don't know much about what I'm> doing yet. Too bad for me, because she's a little under the weather, and I> need to make her well.> > I've been lurking in the shado
RE: [Chevelle-List] 71 Chevele mirror-BAD
My 5" cowl makes you rubber neck to see the front right...bad mistake going more than 3 1/2 on the hood. Walt >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = >Yea, on my '69 I'm looking straight into it, I have to look under or >over it which is a problem. I'm going to look for a mirror that either >has a short mounting arm, or one that mounts to the windshield. I need >to get something smaller and higher mounted. > >BTW: with a 4" cowl hood, this is a bit of a problem. :-) > >Keith Cooper wrote: > >> I am going to have to be more careful. That 12" rearview mirror on my >> car causes a blind spot. Twice I have started to pull out or go, only >> to find a car turning in front of me. That big mirror and the mounting >> spot causes a blind spot. I think I will have to try the 11" mirror to >> see if it is better.Anyone else have this problem with the rearview >> mirror?[EMAIL PROTECTED] See my Chevelle: >> http://home.mindspring.com/~keithc/index.html > >-- > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com > and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html > Tremec Distributor at http://www.tremectransmissions.com/ > Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] A little help, please...
Hi ya Bill First things first. Tell us about yourself & your car. What size engine is it? Is it stock? If not, what's been done to it? What you describe could be a number of things. If you've tested the compression & you're sure it is ok then that leaves fuel & spark. If the valves, springs or cam are a problem it will usually show up in a compression test. The cheapest & simplest thing to do is install NEW plugs, plug wires, coil, distributor cap, rotor & points if it has them. None of this is very expensive & this will probably fix the problem. If it doesn't, then you'll have to delve a little farther but at least you'll know your ignition system is good. Good luck & don't be shy about asking questions of the list. Don > Hiya list,> > So I'm kind of a beginning hot rodder. That is to say, I just bought the> car I've always wanted - a 67 Malibu (okay, I would have liked to have an> SS, but don't tell her that. :o] ) but I don't know much about what I'm> doing yet. Too bad for me, because she's a little under the weather, and I> need to make her well.> > I've been lurking in the shadows on this list for a while now, and my first> post is to ask you folks for a little help. Please be gentle - I told you,> I'm learning. :o]> > A long story real short: She runs a little rough, esp at low RPMs, and I> have an emissions problem with hydrocarbons at idle. The whole car shakes a> little bit. I looked at several different things before I disconnected the> wires from the cap one at a time with the motor running. You really don't> notice much difference on #8 unless you also disconnect another cylinder.> You really have to strain to hear any difference - not like the other> cylinders. i.e., it fires, but not strong enough so that you notice it> unless the motor is really struggling. I swapped plugs and plug wires with> #6 cylinder and had the same results, so I guess that brings me back to> compression?> > Cranking compression test results were okay when I tested them before, but> I've never done a leakdown test. I don't have a tester or a compressor (but> I guess those are my next steps, eh?)> > This is really not what I was hoping to find. What are the best case / worst> case scenarios you guys, and what's it gonna cost me? Could it be something> simple?> > I left the details on my application out for brevity's sake, but I'm happy> to supply them if it helps.> > TIA,> > Bill Bruyn> > > -> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]>
