Re: [Chevelle-List] GM Part Numbers

[jason pollock]

chuck
would that be true for all six digit part numbers
thanks
jason pollock

On Friday, December 13, 2002, at 10:11 PM, Chuck Hanson wrote:

on 12/13/02 10:50 PM, Dwight Fulton at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Does anyone know of a way to figure out what year and model a couple of sport mirrors are from?  They have GM part# of 995592 & 994929.

Thanks

Dwight

Dwight,
The 995592 mirror is a: "Mirror, outside rearview, sport, remote, L/H, '77 A-body"
The 994929 mirror is a: "Mirror, outside rearview, sport, manual, R/H '76-8 F-body"

The six digit part numbers indicate these were dealer-installed pieces, not installed at the factory.  Hope this helps.

Chuck

Re: [Chevelle-List] GM Part Numbers

[Chuck Hanson]

Title: Re: [Chevelle-List] GM Part Numbers



on 12/13/02 10:50 PM, Dwight Fulton at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Does anyone know of a way to figure out what year and model a couple of sport mirrors are from?  They have GM part# of 995592 & 994929.
 
Thanks
 
Dwight

Dwight, 
The 995592 mirror is a: "Mirror, outside rearview, sport, remote, L/H, '77 A-body"
The 994929 mirror is a: "Mirror, outside rearview, sport, manual, R/H '76-8 F-body"

The six digit part numbers indicate these were dealer-installed pieces, not installed at the factory.  Hope this helps.

Chuck

Re: [Chevelle-List] GM Part Numbers

[jason pollock]

i dont know if this will help any but there not from any chevelle 64/72
jason pollock
On Friday, December 13, 2002, at 08:50 PM, Dwight Fulton wrote:

Does anyone know of a way to figure out what year and model a couple of sport mirrors are from?  They have GM part# of 995592 & 994929.
 
Thanks
 
Dwight

Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[Chuck Hanson]

Title: Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)



on 12/13/02 12:59 PM, aztechsteel at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I would suspect the pushrod operating the master cylinder is too long.  That would explain why the calipers didn¹t retract initially, causing them to fry.  It would also explain low flow (or low volume), since the piston in the master cyl. is already partially extended, you don¹t get full stroke, when the brake pedal is applied. 

 

JOE BANKS 

AZTECH TOOL CO. 

AZTECH MOLD & DIE STEEL 

602-257-2300 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brian Zack
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 11:23 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell) 

 

Did you bench bleed the master before you put it in the car? 

 

Brian Zack 
'70 Chevelle Malibu
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Dekker/Perich/Sabatini 
architecture  interiors  planning  engineering 
505.761.9700  fax 505.761.4222. 

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 10:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell) 

Thanks for your input.
The car was originally driving and braking but the disc brakes were dragging and she locked up. (really cooked them)
Upon inspection it appeared that the driver side had noticable uneven wear  which made me think the caliper was not engaging or releasing properly. I replaced the calipers on both sides including the rubber brake lines and could get very liitle fluid to dribble out. Then I figured I would start working from the top. MC gasket was totally deforemed, so we definitley had some contamination going on up there.
Replaced MC but still no fluid. Cant test Proportioning valve because line is turning with the wrench. and dont have lines yet. Dont know of any changes to the pedal and ordered MC for the car (70 Chevelle SS 396) which when compared, appears correct.
Will replace proportioning valve this weekend and see where that leads me ( Man this little jewel is expensive, dont ever throw one away!)
Will keep everyone updated as more problems occur...Hope to post one last time that she is braking like a champ.

Thx
Ed

In a message dated 12/13/02 9:39:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I'm popping in late here and may have missed a significant part of the problem definition, but when the master cylinder was replaced are you 1) sure it is the correct MC for your booster or pedal configuration? and 2) was the brake pedal pivot changed or adjusted in any way?   I'm thinking maybe you're not displacing the fluid sufficiently.  Might not be an obstruction at all. 




Good call on the "too long rod, " Joe.  I had a similar lockup on my '66's front brakes right after converting them to discs.  Shortened the rod a tad at the turnbuckle, and the problem went away.   I also agree that may be the cause of diminished fluid flow, and once properly adjusted the piston on the master can be extended to full travel and move an appropriate amount of fluid.

Of course, one way to be certain there are no blockages in the lines is to disconnect them and individually blow them out with compressed air.  Good luck getting your brakes operating properly.

Chuck

[Chevelle-List] GM Part Numbers

[Dwight Fulton]

Does anyone know of a way to figure out what year and model a couple of 
sport mirrors are from?  They have GM part# of 995592 & 994929.
 
Thanks
 
Dwight

RE: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Dale McIntosh]

The Saginaw has been around most of our ~classic~ era.  I found a
general exploded view of a Saginaw 4-speed for 66-71's.  See
http://www.team67.com/groups/index.htm and click the "Group 4.000
Transmission - Brakes" link.  I think (not positive) that all Saginaw
4-speeds were iron.

Dale 

 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 9:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street
> 
> 
> Does anyone know when GM went to 
> Saginaw 4spds and what cars used them? Mine is cast iron and 
> not aluminum,if that helps.  


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Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Clint Hooper]

Yeah,I've used the VB&P billet spacers before,Herb,and they are premium
quality. But,I would have to run a 3" to 4" spacer and that is a bunch. Does
anyone know when GM went to Saginaw 4spds and what cars used them? Mine is
cast iron and not aluminum,if that helps.  The reason I was thinking of
running a TH400 is because the car will have a big inch Rat (496" or larger)
someday. With that much torque available,I could run a 3.25 rear cog easily.
Clint Hooper
LT5 Registry Director
Wichita Falls,Tx
(940) 855-6636
'91 ZR-1 Callaway Aerobody
TX TAGS: USA ZR1
http://www.LT5Registry.net/
'69 El Camino Pro Street
- Original Message -
From: Herbert Lumpp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Clint,
> Actually, the spacers from VB&P are probably some of the best out there.
If
> you've never seen them, they're aren't like typical wheel spacers.  The
VB&P
> spacers are actually bolted on as if they were a wheel and a second set of
> studs in the spacers are used to mount the wheels.
> Just say no to auto!!!  STAY STICK!!!  The key things that define Pro
> Touring are big wheels and tires, big brakes, and above all else, a 4, 5,
or
> 6 speed trans.
> Auto bad.  Stick good.  :)
> cYa-
> Herb Lumpp
> 1966 El Camino
> ACES 3509, MCC 528
> http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/



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Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Dan McIntosh]

65 to 70 in the winter?
Boy do you have it rough.. its about 26 degrees here now, actually kinda
warm compared to what we've had lately.
No, me and Dale aren't related, but I did see a picture of his car
once...
Take it easy...

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS



- Original Message -
From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 9:47 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


> Hi Dan,
>
> You wrote: "I was thinking pressure, in which case it wouldn't matter."
>
> Right. And I plan to do just that when I connect the oil pressure gauge.
The
> T won't affect the reading there.
>
> BTW, I put in an aluminum crossflow rad at the tail end of the hot season,
> and it certainly helped, but when it is 95 or 100 degrees out things get
> hot. And it's hard to use newer cars as a comparison, because they seem to
> run warmer, with their insensitive temp gauges and fans not set to come on
> until 225 or so. Somehow, I wouldn't think 220 is too hot in that kind of
> extreme heat, but I stand to be corrected.
>
> It's winter here now and temps are more moderate (65 to 70), so I won't
> really be able to tell if I totally fixed the problem until next May or
June
> when it hits 100 again. Interestingly, this seems to be the time of year
> when the cars come out. It's summer when they are tucked away! This is my
> first year here so I am adapting. :-)
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Tim
>
> PS: Are you and Dale related?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 4:33 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> True,
> for some reason, when I typed that reply, I was thinking pressure, in
which
> case it wouldn't matter. Sorry.
>
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 6:31 PM
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> > Thanks for the reply.
> >
> > I'm not certain there would be sufficient coolant flowing around the
> sensor
> > with a T-fitting for a responsive reading.
> >
> > Tim.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> > Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:56 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
> >
> >
> > How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
> > I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is really bad. My
> > Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but then again I don't drive it
> in
> > Arizona!!
> >
> > Dan McIntosh
> > 64 Impala SS
> >
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
> > Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
> >
> >
> > > Group,
> > >
> > > I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I
could
> > see
> > > how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last summer.
> > > (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
> > >
> > > As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in
> the
> > > intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have a
> > > temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
> > >
> > > Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for
> the
> > > temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution
that
> > will
> > > allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? There does
> not
> > > seem to be another available port.
> > >
> > > There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in
> front
> > of
> > > the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum
fitting?
> > Any
> > > advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the
> desert
> > > heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased the
> > > vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of
the
> > > group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth
but
> > poky
> > > 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
> > without
> > > any performance pieces.
> > >
> > > Thanks, gents.
> > >
> > > Tim Moebes
> > >
> > >
> > > -
> > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe plea

RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Tim Moebes]

Thanks, Dean and Dale.

I knew this group would be able to quickly direct me to a solution for the
fitting.

Best regards,
Tim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dale McIntosh
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 3:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


If you can't find the thermostat housing with the fitting, later model
Chevrolet (maybe trucks) had them, you can get a spacer from someone
like http://www.flatlanderracing.com/mezierenecks.html for $25.  It
essentially lifts the water outlet housing up about 2" and has threaded
holes for fittings.  Designed to allow you to run cooling lines to the
back corners of the intake, but you could just as easily run two water
temp senders.  I bought one similar (mine has 4 holes) when I thought
I'd have to plug the intake to heater hole due to lack of space.  Turned
out I didn't need it but I'm holding it for just such an occasion as
yours...wanting/needing two water temp sender locations.  Granted it
places the sender ABOVE the thermostat so it'd measure temp of the water
in the top hose before the stat opens, but that shouldn't last more than
a couple of miles to get up to operating temp (put the stock sender
there).

If you only use one hole, simply get a plug for the other.

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky
Dale's Place
Team 67
Midwest Chevelles


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Tim Moebes
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:32 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I'm not certain there would be sufficient coolant flowing
> around the sensor with a T-fitting for a responsive reading.
>
> Tim.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:56 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
> I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is
> really bad. My Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but
> then again I don't drive it in Arizona!!
>
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> > Group,
> >
> > I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I
> > could
> see
> > how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this
> last summer.
> > (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
> >
> > As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is
> located in
> > the intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not
> > have a temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
> >
> > Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected
> the wire for
> > the temperature light and left it for another day. Is there
> a solution
> > that
> will
> > allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle?
> There does
> > not seem to be another available port.
> >
> > There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in
> > front
> of
> > the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum
> > fitting?
> Any
> > advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the
> > desert heat? I installed a larger radiator which has
> greatly increased
> > the vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know
> the opinions
> > of the group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a
> > smooth but
> poky
> > 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
> without
> > any performance pieces.
> >
> > Thanks, gents.
> >
> > Tim Moebes
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Tim Moebes]

Hi Dan,

You wrote: "I was thinking pressure, in which case it wouldn't matter."

Right. And I plan to do just that when I connect the oil pressure gauge. The
T won't affect the reading there.

BTW, I put in an aluminum crossflow rad at the tail end of the hot season,
and it certainly helped, but when it is 95 or 100 degrees out things get
hot. And it's hard to use newer cars as a comparison, because they seem to
run warmer, with their insensitive temp gauges and fans not set to come on
until 225 or so. Somehow, I wouldn't think 220 is too hot in that kind of
extreme heat, but I stand to be corrected.

It's winter here now and temps are more moderate (65 to 70), so I won't
really be able to tell if I totally fixed the problem until next May or June
when it hits 100 again. Interestingly, this seems to be the time of year
when the cars come out. It's summer when they are tucked away! This is my
first year here so I am adapting. :-)

Thanks again.

Tim

PS: Are you and Dale related?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 4:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


True,
for some reason, when I typed that reply, I was thinking pressure, in which
case it wouldn't matter. Sorry.

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS


- Original Message -
From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I'm not certain there would be sufficient coolant flowing around the
sensor
> with a T-fitting for a responsive reading.
>
> Tim.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:56 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
> I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is really bad. My
> Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but then again I don't drive it
in
> Arizona!!
>
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> > Group,
> >
> > I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I could
> see
> > how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last summer.
> > (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
> >
> > As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in
the
> > intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have a
> > temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
> >
> > Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for
the
> > temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution that
> will
> > allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? There does
not
> > seem to be another available port.
> >
> > There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in
front
> of
> > the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum fitting?
> Any
> > advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the
desert
> > heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased the
> > vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of the
> > group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth but
> poky
> > 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
> without
> > any performance pieces.
> >
> > Thanks, gents.
> >
> > Tim Moebes
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Dan McIntosh]

True,
for some reason, when I typed that reply, I was thinking pressure, in which
case it wouldn't matter. Sorry.

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS


- Original Message -
From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I'm not certain there would be sufficient coolant flowing around the
sensor
> with a T-fitting for a responsive reading.
>
> Tim.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:56 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
> I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is really bad. My
> Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but then again I don't drive it
in
> Arizona!!
>
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
>
>
> > Group,
> >
> > I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I could
> see
> > how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last summer.
> > (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
> >
> > As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in
the
> > intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have a
> > temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
> >
> > Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for
the
> > temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution that
> will
> > allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? There does
not
> > seem to be another available port.
> >
> > There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in
front
> of
> > the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum fitting?
> Any
> > advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the
desert
> > heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased the
> > vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of the
> > group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth but
> poky
> > 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
> without
> > any performance pieces.
> >
> > Thanks, gents.
> >
> > Tim Moebes
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[HarKemAsso]

Tim, could you put a "t" in the manifold and put both sensors in it??

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RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Dale McIntosh]

Mine hasn't run that warm since I added the air but before I went to the
current aluminum radiator.  I'm not a cooling expert, but even NASCAR
motors like to run in the 220-235 range...course that's at 180mph for
500 miles. :*)  I wouldn't worry if the standard temp ran in the 200-210
range at sustained speeds, but it's the cooling capability when you slow
down in traffic.  Will it stay in that range without going up very
quickly and will it cool back down to that once underway again?

Dale 

> I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is 
> really bad. 


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RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Dale McIntosh]

If you can't find the thermostat housing with the fitting, later model
Chevrolet (maybe trucks) had them, you can get a spacer from someone
like http://www.flatlanderracing.com/mezierenecks.html for $25.  It
essentially lifts the water outlet housing up about 2" and has threaded
holes for fittings.  Designed to allow you to run cooling lines to the
back corners of the intake, but you could just as easily run two water
temp senders.  I bought one similar (mine has 4 holes) when I thought
I'd have to plug the intake to heater hole due to lack of space.  Turned
out I didn't need it but I'm holding it for just such an occasion as
yours...wanting/needing two water temp sender locations.  Granted it
places the sender ABOVE the thermostat so it'd measure temp of the water
in the top hose before the stat opens, but that shouldn't last more than
a couple of miles to get up to operating temp (put the stock sender
there).

If you only use one hole, simply get a plug for the other.

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky
Dale's Place
Team 67
Midwest Chevelles


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Tim Moebes
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:32 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> I'm not certain there would be sufficient coolant flowing 
> around the sensor with a T-fitting for a responsive reading.
> 
> Tim.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:56 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
> 
> 
> How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
> I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is 
> really bad. My Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but 
> then again I don't drive it in Arizona!!
> 
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
> 
> 
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light
> 
> 
> > Group,
> >
> > I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I 
> > could
> see
> > how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this 
> last summer. 
> > (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
> >
> > As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is 
> located in 
> > the intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not 
> > have a temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
> >
> > Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected 
> the wire for 
> > the temperature light and left it for another day. Is there 
> a solution 
> > that
> will
> > allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? 
> There does 
> > not seem to be another available port.
> >
> > There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in 
> > front
> of
> > the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum 
> > fitting?
> Any
> > advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the 
> > desert heat? I installed a larger radiator which has 
> greatly increased 
> > the vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know 
> the opinions 
> > of the group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a 
> > smooth but
> poky
> > 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
> without
> > any performance pieces.
> >
> > Thanks, gents.
> >
> > Tim Moebes
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> -
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> 
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Non-Chevelle tech question

[Herbert Lumpp]

Title: Message



Roger that!
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dean Vandergriff 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:31 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Non-Chevelle 
  tech question
  
  Herb, If you figure this out let me know.  We've got exactly the 
  same problem on a '90 Ram of my Dad's.  Same deal on the idle adjustment 
  too, you can't change it. 
   
  Dean 
  Vandergriff
   
  
   
   
   -Original 
  Message-From: Herbert Lumpp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
  Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 4:50 PMTo: Chevelle 
  ListSubject: [Chevelle-List] Non-Chevelle tech 
  question
  

Before I start driving my "new" 87 Jimmy every day, I'd like to 
fix one small problem, maybe someone on the list can point me in 
the right direction. 
 
The engine is a TBI 350 (I've never had a TBI before).  It runs 
great, but occasionally, when you take off from a stop the engine will 
stall.  Fortunately it starts right up so the stalling is more of a 
nuisance but I'd still like to fix it.
 
The previous owner said he replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and 
rebuilt the distributor.  I think there's something wrong with the TPS 
or TBI itself.  If I hold the rpm just above idle while 
holding the brake, it won't stall, but if I just let it idle where it's 
set it's more likely to stall when I take off.  I was going to 
raise the idle to see if that helped, but I didn't see an idle adjustment 
screw.
 
If anyone has any experience with a TBI or has any suggestions I'd 
really appreciate it.  Thanks. 
cYa-
 
Herb Lumpp1966 El CaminoACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/

Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Herbert Lumpp]

Clint,

> Billet spacers from Vette Brakes & Products would
> work but I believe in doing things right.

Actually, the spacers from VB&P are probably some of the best out there.  If
you've never seen them, they're aren't like typical wheel spacers.  The VB&P
spacers are actually bolted on as if they were a wheel and a second set of
studs in the spacers are used to mount the wheels.

> I bought a built TH400 this afternoon(the price was too good to pass up)
so
> I'm having thoughts of swapping it in.

Just say no to auto!!!  STAY STICK!!!  The key things that define Pro
Touring are big wheels and tires, big brakes, and above all else, a 4, 5, or
6 speed trans.

Auto bad.  Stick good.  :)


cYa-

Herb Lumpp
1966 El Camino
ACES 3509, MCC 528
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/


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RE: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right

[Dale McIntosh]

I would be suspicious since the VIN wasn't entered.  I've only sold one
car on ebay and there is a definate block for the VIN.  Putting ~used~
in the block makes it questionable.  Replacement parts and/or paint
could be the reason for the grille, cove, etc.

Dale McIntosh


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of rocky hill
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 3:42 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right
> 
> 
> Thats a pretty broad statment to make because the rear
> cove outline isn't there, and the grille isn't blacked 
> out.There is not enough information from the description and 
> pictures to make that determinaton.
> 
> The 66SS came with a blacked out grille also, but I
> have seen a few that were re-done and the black taken
> off.
> 
> Rocky
> My66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss
> 
> 
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > The grill should be blacked out and the trunk lid
> > should have a black
> > outline inside the outer trim,but not under the
> > center letering.
> > 
> > Am I missing anything?
> > 
> > Harald Nielsen
> > Systems Specialist III
> > Lincoln Water System
> > (402)944-3306
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
> -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit
> > www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> __
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RE: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Dale McIntosh]

You just did - twice at the bottom of your reply.

Dale


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Craig A. Ellis
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:16 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street
> 
> 
> Quick, send Bob the unsub instructions - perhaps he'll be 
> able to get off the list by Christmas...
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On > Behalf Of 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:55 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street
> 
> 
> please unsubsribe me . Thanx, Bob Myers, NC
> 
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> 


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RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Tim Moebes]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm not certain there would be sufficient coolant flowing around the sensor
with a T-fitting for a responsive reading.

Tim.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:56 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is really bad. My
Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but then again I don't drive it in
Arizona!!

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS



- Original Message -
From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


> Group,
>
> I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I could
see
> how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last summer.
> (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
>
> As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in the
> intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have a
> temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
>
> Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for the
> temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution that
will
> allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? There does not
> seem to be another available port.
>
> There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in front
of
> the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum fitting?
Any
> advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the desert
> heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased the
> vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of the
> group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth but
poky
> 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
without
> any performance pieces.
>
> Thanks, gents.
>
> Tim Moebes
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Clint Hooper]

Well,I seem to have hit the first snag with my new car. The plan was
to convert the car from a prostreeter to a nice handling protourer.
We,it looks like the 9" rear is going to be too narrow to allow me to
run a 17x13 wheel with enough backspace. The 15x14 Centerlines on it now
only have around 4" backspace. To keep the tire sidewall where I need it
close to the fenderwell lip,I would have to have a 17x13 wheel built with
only 2" backspacing;nowhere near enough. Billet spacers from Vette Brakes &
Products would work but I believe in doing things right. So,it looks like a
wider 9" rear will be needed,something like a Chris Alston Fab 9 with the
backbrace. Another disappointment;I found out the 4spd in the car is a
Saginaw,not a Muncie. I don't plan on dragracing the car so it probably
won't hurt anything but it sure would've been better with a Muncie. Oh,well.
I bought a built TH400 this afternoon(the price was too good to pass up) so
I'm having thoughts of swapping it in.
Clint Hooper
LT5 Registry Director
Wichita Falls,Tx
(940) 855-6636
'91 ZR-1 Callaway Aerobody
TX TAGS: USA ZR1
http://www.LT5Registry.net/
'69 El Camino Pro Street


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Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Dan McIntosh]

How about a brass t-fitting in the port?
I think around 200 is normal operating temp, and 220 is really bad. My
Impala runs around 195 most of the time, but then again I don't drive it in
Arizona!!

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS



- Original Message -
From: "Tim Moebes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 5:29 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


> Group,
>
> I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I could
see
> how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last summer.
> (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)
>
> As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in the
> intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have a
> temperature sensor in the heads like later models.
>
> Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for the
> temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution that
will
> allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? There does not
> seem to be another available port.
>
> There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in front
of
> the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum fitting?
Any
> advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the desert
> heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased the
> vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of the
> group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth but
poky
> 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s
without
> any performance pieces.
>
> Thanks, gents.
>
> Tim Moebes
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Clint Hooper]

Please read the instructions below,Bob.
Clint Hooper
'69 El Camino Pro Street
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> please unsubsribe me . Thanx, Bob Myers, NC
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html



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Re: [Chevelle-List] a semi-related brake question-please

[Dan McIntosh]

I would think you could reuse the booster, but not the M/C. From the reading
I've done, everything after the booster is different for discs. It is
importaint to check the pushrod length, although I'm still not real sure how
to accomplish this. Hope this helps somewhat.

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS


- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 2:41 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] a semi-related brake question-please


> In a message dated 12/12/2002 4:48:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, HarKemAsso
writes:
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/12/2002 3:49:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > > That "block" bolted on to the booster up by the master cylinder is the
> > > proportioning valve. The block down on the frame is the distribution
> > > block/switch assembly. GM now makes a replacement that is a prop.
> > > valve/dist. block/ switch assembly all in one and it looks
> > > like the old
> > > dist. block.
> > >
> > > Trooper
> > I HAVE A QUESTION ON THIS, I have a 68 with 4-wheel drums, it has a dual
master and a booster.  i took the disc brakes,spindles,master,booster,off of
a 68 or 69 pont grand prix- the grand prix had that little port. valve up by
the master, will i need to reuse this on the 68 chevelle when i convert it
over to the grand prix stuff?? can i use the orig booster from the
chevelle?? can i reuse the master from the chevelle?? ( the chevelle already
has a block down on the frame, it is the only one on the car, i think it has
an electrical connector
> > on it). Thanks!!
> > H
>
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Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right

[rocky hill]

Thats a pretty broad statment to make because the rear
cove outline isn't there, and the grille isn't blacked
out.There is not enough information from the
description and pictures to make that determinaton.

The 66SS came with a blacked out grille also, but I
have seen a few that were re-done and the black taken
off.

Rocky
My66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss


--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> The grill should be blacked out and the trunk lid
> should have a black
> outline inside the outer trim,but not under the
> center letering.
> 
> Am I missing anything?
> 
> Harald Nielsen
> Systems Specialist III
> Lincoln Water System
> (402)944-3306
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
-
> To Unsubscribe please visit
> www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Dean Vandergriff]

Tim,
You should be able to buy a thermostat housing that has a port
in the top of it.

Dean Vandergriff





-Original Message-
From: Tim Moebes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 4:29 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light


Group,

I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I could
see how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last
summer. (Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)

As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in
the intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have
a temperature sensor in the heads like later models.

Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for
the temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution
that will allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle?
There does not seem to be another available port.

There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in
front of the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum
fitting? Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the
desert heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased
the vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of
the group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth
but poky 283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late
80s without any performance pieces.

Thanks, gents.

Tim Moebes


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[Chevelle-List] 66 283: temp gauge AND idiot light

[Tim Moebes]

Group,

I recently installed a temperature gauge in my 1966 El Camino so I could see
how hideously hot it was getting in the Tucson heat this last summer.
(Funny, the vehicle was fine up in the Pacific Northwest.)

As you know, the temperature port for this early vehicle is located in the
intake manifold adjacent to the thermostat housing. It does not have a
temperature sensor in the heads like later models.

Not seeing another available port, I simply disconnected the wire for the
temperature light and left it for another day. Is there a solution that will
allow both the gauge and light to function on this vehicle? There does not
seem to be another available port.

There is a smaller-diameter plug toward the back of the manifold in front of
the distributor. Does anybody know if this is an oil or vacuum fitting? Any
advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

A second question: How hot is too hot for sustained driving in the desert
heat? I installed a larger radiator which has greatly increased the
vehicle's cooling capacity, but I would like to know the opinions of the
group as to what temperature is really safe. The engine is a smooth but poky
283 4-bbl originally rated at 225HP. It was rebuilt in the late 80s without
any performance pieces.

Thanks, gents.

Tim Moebes


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Re: [Chevelle-List] unsubscribe me

[rocky hill]

Poof- alakadabra, alakazam, your unsubscribed!!

Rocky



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> 
>
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Power brakes

[Tom Kosty]

Title: Message



For what it's worth, I have a 67 SS that I switched 
to disk. I went to the junk yard and got the rotors, caliper and master cylinder 
from a 70 chevelle and the proportioning got from a 74 camaro. I turned the 
rotors cleaned up the spindles and calipers mounted the prop valve ran some new 
lines and bled the brakes. They work great I have had no problems with it 
locking up or not enough stopping power and the best this is that it only cost 
about $120-total  real easy on the brain or maybe I just got 
lucky.
Tom K Denver, Co
 Original Message - 

  From: 
  Dale McIntosh 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 3:40 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Power 
  brakes
  
  Disks in Chevelles didn't appear until 67 but the 69-72 are the 
  ones to get.  I don't think later model will fit.  I understand any 
  69-72 A-body GM are a bolt-on.  The very easiest way to get all new parts 
  and have minimal labor time invested is to get a ~kit~ from one of the 
  many suppliers ...OR... get a Baer kit and bolt them to the stock drum 
  spindles.  No messing with changing spindles means no pulling 
  shocks, compressing the spring, busting ball joints loose, removing lower 
  arms and then putting it all back together again.  With the Baer system, 
  unbolt the wheel/tire, remove drum brakes and backing plate, install new hub 
  and rotor, supplied lines, splice in an adjustable prop valve, and hook up the 
  supplied master cylinder.  A power booster isn't even necessary unless 
  you absolutely have to have the lower pedal pressure.  Not much more work 
  than doing a standard disk brake job and packing the front 
  bearings.
   
  Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Dale’s Place Team 
  67 Midwest Chevelles 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
On Behalf Of vmckagueSent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 
12:16 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: 
[Chevelle-List] Power brakes
I known this question has probably been asked a 
thousand times but what year car does it take to switch my 64 elky 
from manual drum brakes to power disk? I've heard 64 to 72.  A 
friend of mine thinks  all the way up to 82 would work but sometimes I 
think he's about half nuts.LOL I would like to have all the parts 
together and try to get this done in one week end. Is this possible? Thanks, 
Vernon

RE: [Chevelle-List] Non-Chevelle tech question

[Dean Vandergriff]

Title: Message



Herb, 
If you figure this out let me know.  We've got exactly the same problem on 
a '90 Ram of my Dad's.  Same deal on the idle adjustment too, you can't 
change it. 
 
Dean 
Vandergriff
 

 
 
 -Original Message-From: 
Herbert Lumpp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, December 13, 
2002 4:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-List] 
Non-Chevelle tech question

  
  Before I start driving my "new" 87 Jimmy every day, I'd like to fix 
  one small problem, maybe someone on the list can point me in the 
  right direction. 
   
  The engine is a TBI 350 (I've never had a TBI before).  It runs 
  great, but occasionally, when you take off from a stop the engine will 
  stall.  Fortunately it starts right up so the stalling is more of a 
  nuisance but I'd still like to fix it.
   
  The previous owner said he replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and 
  rebuilt the distributor.  I think there's something wrong with the TPS or 
  TBI itself.  If I hold the rpm just above idle while holding the 
  brake, it won't stall, but if I just let it idle where it's set it's more 
  likely to stall when I take off.  I was going to raise the idle to 
  see if that helped, but I didn't see an idle adjustment screw.
   
  If anyone has any experience with a TBI or has any suggestions I'd really 
  appreciate it.  Thanks. 
  cYa-
   
  Herb Lumpp1966 El CaminoACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/

[Chevelle-List] Non-Chevelle tech question

[Herbert Lumpp]

Before I start driving my "new" 87 Jimmy every day, I'd like to fix 
one small problem, maybe someone on the list can point me in the right 
direction. 
 
The engine is a TBI 350 (I've never had a TBI before).  It runs great, 
but occasionally, when you take off from a stop the engine will stall.  
Fortunately it starts right up so the stalling is more of a nuisance but 
I'd still like to fix it.
 
The previous owner said he replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and 
rebuilt the distributor.  I think there's something wrong with the TPS or 
TBI itself.  If I hold the rpm just above idle while holding the 
brake, it won't stall, but if I just let it idle where it's set it's more likely 
to stall when I take off.  I was going to raise the idle to see if 
that helped, but I didn't see an idle adjustment screw.
 
If anyone has any experience with a TBI or has any suggestions I'd really 
appreciate it.  Thanks. 
cYa-
 
Herb Lumpp1966 El CaminoACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/

Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[Fleshead]

In a message dated 12/13/02 1:58:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I would suspect the pushrod operating the master cylinder is too long.  That would explain why the calipers didn’t retract initially, causing them to fry.  It would also explain low flow (or low volume), since the piston in the master cyl. is already partially extended, you don’t get full stroke, when the brake pedal is applied.

  

JOE BANKS



Well, I cant imagine it has been changed. Is there any reference to use in determining if it is the correct one? I still believe that the car sat up a long time and the brakes were gummed up. I took one of the calipers apart and it was definitley a mess inside

Ed

Re: [Chevelle-List] unsubscribe me

[Rjmmyers]

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[Chevelle-List] a semi-related brake question-please

[HarKemAsso]

In a message dated 12/12/2002 4:48:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, HarKemAsso writes:

> 
> 
> In a message dated 12/12/2002 3:49:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> > That "block" bolted on to the booster up by the master cylinder is the 
> > proportioning valve. The block down on the frame is the distribution 
> > block/switch assembly. GM now makes a replacement that is a prop. 
> > valve/dist. block/ switch assembly all in one and it looks 
> > like the old 
> > dist. block.
> > 
> > Trooper
> I HAVE A QUESTION ON THIS, I have a 68 with 4-wheel drums, it has a dual master and 
>a booster.  i took the disc brakes,spindles,master,booster,off of a 68 or 69 pont 
>grand prix- the grand prix had that little port. valve up by the master, will i need 
>to reuse this on the 68 chevelle when i convert it over to the grand prix stuff?? can 
>i use the orig booster from the chevelle?? can i reuse the master from the chevelle?? 
>( the chevelle already has a block down on the frame, it is the only one on the car, 
>i think it has an electrical connector 
> on it). Thanks!!
> H

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[Fleshead]

In a message dated 12/13/02 1:26:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Did you bench bleed the master before you put it in the car?


Absolutley!

Ed

RE: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[aztechsteel]

After further
consideration, It could also be the brake pedal linkage requires
adjustment.  As I remember the last
brake swap I did, the brakes locked up in less than a block.  A quick adjustment of the linkage,
& the problem was solved.

 

JOE BANKS

AZTECH TOOL
CO.

AZTECH MOLD
& DIE STEEL

602-257-2300

 

 

-Original Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aztechsteel
Sent: Friday,
December 13, 2002 11:59 AM
To:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE:
[Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

 

I would suspect the pushrod operating the master cylinder is too
long.  That would explain why the
calipers didn’t retract initially, causing them to fry.  It would also explain low flow (or low
volume), since the piston in the master cyl. is already partially extended, you
don’t get full stroke, when the brake pedal is applied.

 

JOE BANKS

AZTECH TOOL CO.

AZTECH MOLD & DIE STEEL

602-257-2300

 

 

-Original Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brian Zack
Sent: Friday,
December 13, 2002 11:23 AM
To:
'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List]
Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

 

Did you bench bleed the master before you put it
in the car?

 

Brian Zack 
'70 Chevelle Malibu
mailto:brianz@dpsabq.com 
Dekker/Perich/Sabatini 
architecture  interiors  planning  engineering

505.761.9700  fax 505.761.4222. 

 

-Original
Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday,
December 13, 2002 10:39 AM
To:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

Thanks for your input.
The car was originally driving and braking but the disc brakes were dragging
and she locked up. (really cooked them)
Upon inspection it appeared that the driver side had noticable uneven
wear  which made me think the caliper was not engaging or releasing
properly. I replaced the calipers on both sides including the rubber brake
lines and could get very liitle fluid to dribble out. Then I figured I would
start working from the top. MC gasket was totally deforemed, so we definitley
had some contamination going on up there.
Replaced MC but still no fluid. Cant test Proportioning valve because line is
turning with the wrench. and dont have lines yet. Dont know of any changes to
the pedal and ordered MC for the car (70 Chevelle SS 396) which when compared,
appears correct.
Will replace proportioning valve this weekend and see where that leads me ( Man
this little jewel is expensive, dont ever throw one away!)
Will keep everyone updated as more problems occur...Hope to post one last time
that she is braking like a champ.

Thx
Ed

In a message dated 12/13/02 9:39:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:






I'm
popping in late here and may have missed a significant part of the problem
definition, but when the master cylinder was replaced are you 1) sure it is the
correct MC for your booster or pedal configuration? and 2) was the brake pedal
pivot changed or adjusted in any way?   I'm thinking maybe you're not
displacing the fluid sufficiently.  Might not be an obstruction at all.

RE: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Craig A. Ellis]

Quick, send Bob the unsub instructions - perhaps he'll be able to get off the list by 
Christmas...

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:55 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street


please unsubsribe me . Thanx, Bob Myers, NC

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Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Elky Pro Street

[Rjmmyers]

please unsubsribe me . Thanx, Bob Myers, NC

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RE: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[aztechsteel]

I would
suspect the pushrod operating the master cylinder is too long.  That would explain why the calipers
didn’t retract initially, causing them to fry.  It would also explain low flow (or low volume), since the
piston in the master cyl. is already partially extended, you don’t get full
stroke, when the brake pedal is applied.

 

JOE BANKS

AZTECH TOOL
CO.

AZTECH MOLD
& DIE STEEL

602-257-2300

 

 

-Original Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brian Zack
Sent: Friday,
December 13, 2002 11:23 AM
To:
'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE:
[Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

 

Did you bench bleed the master before you put it
in the car?

 

Brian Zack 
'70 Chevelle Malibu
mailto:brianz@dpsabq.com 
Dekker/Perich/Sabatini 
architecture  interiors  planning  engineering

505.761.9700  fax 505.761.4222. 

 

-Original
Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday,
December 13, 2002 10:39 AM
To:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

Thanks for your input.
The car was originally driving and braking but the disc brakes were dragging
and she locked up. (really cooked them)
Upon inspection it appeared that the driver side had noticable uneven
wear  which made me think the caliper was not engaging or releasing properly.
I replaced the calipers on both sides including the rubber brake lines and
could get very liitle fluid to dribble out. Then I figured I would start
working from the top. MC gasket was totally deforemed, so we definitley had
some contamination going on up there.
Replaced MC but still no fluid. Cant test Proportioning valve because line is
turning with the wrench. and dont have lines yet. Dont know of any changes to
the pedal and ordered MC for the car (70 Chevelle SS 396) which when compared,
appears correct.
Will replace proportioning valve this weekend and see where that leads me ( Man
this little jewel is expensive, dont ever throw one away!)
Will keep everyone updated as more problems occur...Hope to post one last time
that she is braking like a champ.

Thx
Ed

In a message dated 12/13/02 9:39:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:






I'm
popping in late here and may have missed a significant part of the problem
definition, but when the master cylinder was replaced are you 1) sure it is the
correct MC for your booster or pedal configuration? and 2) was the brake pedal
pivot changed or adjusted in any way?   I'm thinking maybe you're not
displacing the fluid sufficiently.  Might not be an obstruction at all.

RE: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[Brian Zack]

Did 
you bench bleed the master before you put it in the car?
 
Brian Zack '70 
Chevelle Malibumailto:brianz@dpsabq.com Dekker/Perich/Sabatini architecture  interiors  planning  
engineering 505.761.9700  fax 505.761.4222. 


  -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 10:39 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)Thanks 
  for your input.The car was originally driving and braking but the disc 
  brakes were dragging and she locked up. (really cooked them)Upon 
  inspection it appeared that the driver side had noticable uneven wear  
  which made me think the caliper was not engaging or releasing properly. I 
  replaced the calipers on both sides including the rubber brake lines and could 
  get very liitle fluid to dribble out. Then I figured I would start working 
  from the top. MC gasket was totally deforemed, so we definitley had some 
  contamination going on up there.Replaced MC but still no fluid. Cant test 
  Proportioning valve because line is turning with the wrench. and dont have 
  lines yet. Dont know of any changes to the pedal and ordered MC for the car 
  (70 Chevelle SS 396) which when compared, appears correct.Will replace 
  proportioning valve this weekend and see where that leads me ( Man this little 
  jewel is expensive, dont ever throw one away!)Will keep everyone updated 
  as more problems occur...Hope to post one last time that she is braking like a 
  champ.ThxEdIn a message dated 12/13/02 9:39:01 AM Eastern 
  Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  I'm popping in late here and may 
have missed a significant part of the problem definition, but when the 
master cylinder was replaced are you 1) sure it is the correct MC for your 
booster or pedal configuration? and 2) was the brake pedal pivot changed or 
adjusted in any way?   I'm thinking maybe you're not displacing 
the fluid sufficiently.  Might not be an obstruction at 
  all.

Re: [Chevelle-List] T-5

[Tigergutt]

Sorry for the delay larry, I have been in 
Denmark for some meetings with work.
 
lets settle it in this way, you pay the ticket, I 
offer all the beers you can possibly drink but for gods sake lets close the 
trans first :):):)
Kind Regards
 
André

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 6:46 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] T-5
  Andre:I have no idea. But if you pay my way over there 
  :) I will (over a few beers) try to help you close it 
  up. 
        
  Larry (z) 

Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3 (Darrell)

[Fleshead]

Thanks for your input.
The car was originally driving and braking but the disc brakes were dragging and she locked up. (really cooked them)
Upon inspection it appeared that the driver side had noticable uneven wear  which made me think the caliper was not engaging or releasing properly. I replaced the calipers on both sides including the rubber brake lines and could get very liitle fluid to dribble out. Then I figured I would start working from the top. MC gasket was totally deforemed, so we definitley had some contamination going on up there.
Replaced MC but still no fluid. Cant test Proportioning valve because line is turning with the wrench. and dont have lines yet. Dont know of any changes to the pedal and ordered MC for the car (70 Chevelle SS 396) which when compared, appears correct.
Will replace proportioning valve this weekend and see where that leads me ( Man this little jewel is expensive, dont ever throw one away!)
Will keep everyone updated as more problems occur...Hope to post one last time that she is braking like a champ.

Thx
Ed

In a message dated 12/13/02 9:39:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm popping in late here and may have missed a significant part of the problem definition, but when the master cylinder was replaced are you 1) sure it is the correct MC for your booster or pedal configuration? and 2) was the brake pedal pivot changed or adjusted in any way?   I'm thinking maybe you're not displacing the fluid sufficiently.  Might not be an obstruction at all.

Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right

[Mikey]

Are you saying..just because of that, it might not be an SS? How
about the rocker mldgs missing also?
Mikey
' 65 Chevelle SS
ACES# 03887
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right


>
> The grill should be blacked out and the trunk lid should have a black
> outline inside the outer trim,but not under the center letering.
>
> Am I missing anything?
>
> Harald Nielsen
> Systems Specialist III
> Lincoln Water System
> (402)944-3306
>
>
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>



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[Chevelle-List] MIME-Version: 1.0

[Craig A. Ellis]

Wasnt someone looking for a 66 vintage 12 bolt? I came across this one on ebay today.

 

 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874726743&sspagename=ADME:B:SS:US:1


<>

Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right

[HNielsen]

The grill should be blacked out and the trunk lid should have a black
outline inside the outer trim,but not under the center letering.

Am I missing anything?

Harald Nielsen
Systems Specialist III
Lincoln Water System
(402)944-3306




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Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right

[Graham Wooden]

Please forgive me as I am completely ignorant on how to determine other than 
the VIN that this 65 Chevelle is not what it says - what where the items that 
you saw that tipped you off about this car?  I would like to know because I own 
a 67 SS (13817) and I am curious about other year's SS models.

-Graham.


Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

> 
> Check this out.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874676693
> 
> This guy obviously knows nothing about 65 SS Chevelle's
> 
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 


-- 
Graham Wooden, RHCE
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Chevelle-List] Brake problems part 3

[Spencer, Darrell]

I'm popping in late
here and may have missed a significant part of the problem definition, but when
the master cylinder was replaced are you 1) sure it is the correct MC for your booster
or pedal configuration? and 2) was the brake pedal pivot changed or adjusted in
any way?   I'm thinking maybe you're not displacing the
fluid sufficiently.  Might not be an obstruction at all.  Just a
thought.

 

Darrell Spencer

Cave Creek, Arizona

'70 Malibu

'66 El Camino 

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002
10:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Brake
problems part 3

 

In a message dated 12/12/2002
7:27:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:




Ed,
  The combo one is called a combination valve believe it or not :) They 
sell for about $60.00 and can be purchased from any of the resto. 
companies or directly from GM. But like Tom said, it is very rare for 
the prop. valve or the dist. block to go bad.



Ok...Now I have replaced the master cylinder and both front flexible brake
lines as well as both front calipers. Still no pedal and no decent flow of
brake fluid.Now the problem must be in either the proportioning valve or the
distribution block. So I know that the lines to the prop valve up front are a
problem as one wrang off and the other wanted to but I turned the valve
instead. Then I go under the car to the "block" and I have similar
problems on the front brake lines coming in. I would love to get the brakes at
least working so I can move ther car to a lift..not happening This is now
becoming a pain in the ass. I have owned numerous Chevys for the past 25 years
and I have never had an obstructed brake line...









* 

This communication may contain information that is proprietary, privileged, confidential or legally exempt from disclosure.  If you are not a named addressee, you are notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this communication without the consent of the sender and that doing so may be unlawful. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender via return e-mail and delete it from your computer. Thank you. St. Jude Medical, Inc. 

*

[Chevelle-List] 65 SS Yea Right

[HNielsen]

Check this out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874676693

This guy obviously knows nothing about 65 SS Chevelle's





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[Chevelle-List] Non-lister has '70-71 question

[bdo_chevelle]

This showed up on another list I belong to.  Please send any emails directly to 
Mooky at [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Thanks!

Brad O.

--  Forwarded Message:  -
From: Mooky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [f-body-classic] NC:  Chevelle question
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 18:08:19 -0600

Sorry for the lack of f-body content.  A buddy of mine found a '71 
Chevelle he'd like to buy.  It's in need of a front clip.  Since he's 
not a big fan of the '71 front end, he wants to know if a '70 front end 
will bolt up.  He asked me if I knew.  I told him that I might know 
someone who would know.

So..will it?

THANKS!

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[TronDD]

Well the budget is tight and I'm buying them as the money comes in.  I hope to be up 
to 3 tires by next fall.

Tim.
Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Now I'll have one tire for drivin' and one for steerin'.  
Tough to balance, though)

On Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:04:20 -0500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dan McIntosh) wrote:

> Tim, 
> Both tires? Just what kinda chevy ya got there
> I thought them there cars done had 4 tires on em. LOL.
> 
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
> 
> 
> 
>  - Original Message - 
> From: "TronDD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 9:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff
> 
> 
> " Tim.
> > Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Soon to be burning both tires at once)"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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