RE: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
Well, maybe that wasn't the ultimate intent behind the design, but if you have ever been to a Figure 8 track, you know what happens. OTOH, Figure H racing is much safer. Think about it. John Nasta -Original Message- Actually the X isn't designed to make the exhaust gasses "collide." The two links below will explain the theory behind the X pipe with comparisons to a traditional H pipe. http://www.drgas.com/art-sync.html http://www.drgas.com/art-syncronicity.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] bare metal (use metal prep or sand?)
In a message dated 10/30/2003 10:56:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Now you really got me confused.Wipe the metal off, before you use the metal prep?On the tech sheet for metal prep is says to rinse the metal with water after metal prep to nutralize the prep.Also the 2 part epoxy primer system, Do you have any brands or numbers for this kind of primer?Do you shoot it on at one time? ( the 2 part epoxy primer system) or is it 2 seperate coats. One of etch primer & one of epoxy primer? Here are some steps to follow Wipe the car off with a wet towel Wipe it down with the metal prep Wipe it again with a wet towel Wipe dry with a clean terry cloth Shoot it with the primer You will have to get the primer from an automotive paint supplier. I prefer either PPG or Dupont materials. Sikkens is a good product also. All you really need to do is go to the paint store and talk to the guys there. They can set you up with everything you need. Just be prepared to spend a few dollars to get all the materials.
[Chevelle-list] my 65 chevelle
Hey all, Due to hard times I need to sell my 65. It pains me to do it but I am really desparate. I am only asking 1200 to get pay for everything I have in it. Jason Boivin http://home.wizard.org/twchevelle/
Re: [Chevelle-list] bare metal (use metal prep or sand?)
In a message dated 10/30/03 9:36:04 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The self etching primer is the first part of the 2 part epoxy primer system. It etches the metal and allows you to do the body work over it instead of on bare metal. Body filler actually sticks better to it than bare metal. Use the metal prep after wiping it off with a damp cloth to get all of the contaminants off otherwise you may get spots in which the primer will separate. Think of the old trick putting soap in a bowl of water with pepper flakes in it. That is what will happen. I have had it happen many times for unkown reasons. Tom Now you really got me confused. Wipe the metal off, before you use the metal prep? On the tech sheet for metal prep is says to rinse the metal with water after metal prep to nutralize the prep. Also the 2 part epoxy primer system, Do you have any brands or numbers for this kind of primer? Do you shoot it on at one time? ( the 2 part epoxy primer system) or is it 2 seperate coats. One of etch primer & one of epoxy primer?
Re: [Chevelle-list] bare metal (use metal prep or sand?)
The self etching primer is the first part of the 2 part epoxy primer system. It etches the metal and allows you to do the body work over it instead of on bare metal. Body filler actually sticks better to it than bare metal. Use the metal prep after wiping it off with a damp cloth to get all of the contaminants off otherwise you may get spots in which the primer will separate. Think of the old trick putting soap in a bowl of water with pepper flakes in it. That is what will happen. I have had it happen many times for unkown reasons. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] bare metal (use metal prep or sand?)
In a message dated 10/30/03 5:45:20 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My chevelle is down to bare metal. I have striped &sanded it this summer in my garage. I want to prime it to seal it from moister. Should I use metal prep or not? Some say yes because of microscopic rust. Others like my nieghbor say no, "We never used it years ago, why do we need it?) I'm not to crazy about rinsing my bare metal with water (that what the directions for metal prep say to do) Anyone have any info on this? Thanks! Take a cloth with a bucket of water and wipe it off and dry it. It will not make it rust right away. I left both of my Chevelles in bare metal for months at a time while in the garage up on the rotisserie. Go to a paint store and get some self etching primer/2 part epoxy primer. This will seal it and keep the rust off it. Tom Thanks Tom, but what is self etching primer/2 part epoxy primer. Is this 2 different primers or just one called, self etching primer/2 part epoxy primer. Also is that to say you agree with using the metal prep? You can just wipe it off with a damp rag? Sorry if I sound ignorant.
[Chevelle-list] Wanted: Chevelle Photos
Title: Message Wanted: Quality digital photos of the following cars in colors shown. Photos will be used on my ChevelleStuff website as an example of the color for that particular year. Your name will be listed ONLY if you ok it. Otherwise, only the car and color will be shown. Car can be convertible, hardtop, hardtop w/vinyl top, wagon, etc., it makes no difference to me. Anyone with an authentic (even if repainted) two-tone Chevelle is also invited (encouraged) to send any digital photos. Backgrounds should be free of clutter, shaded trees, etc. for best color display. 1964: 905 ~ Meadow Green, 908 ~ Bahama Green, 912 ~ Silver Blue, 920 ~ Almond Fawn, 936 ~ Ermine White, 938 ~ Desert Beige, 940 ~ Satin Silver 1965: J ~ Cypress Green, V ~ Cameo Beige, W ~ Glacier Gray 1966: D ~ Mist Blue, H ~ Willow Green, V ~ Cameo Beige 1967: S ~ Sierra Fawn 1968: T ~ Palomino Ivory ~ V ~ Sequoia Green 1969: 63 ~ Champagne 1971: 43 ~ Lime Green, 61 ~ Sandalwood, 62 ~ Burnt Orange, 67 ~ Classic Copper, 78 ~ Rosewood 1972: 24 ~ Ascot Blue, 53 ~ Placer Gold, 68 ~ Midnight Bronze Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709/NECOA #41 67SS/67 Elky Dale’s Place – My 67 SS and 67 El Camino ChevelleStuff – Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles Team 67 – 1967 Chevelle/El Camino Specific Midwest Chevelles – Midwest Chevelle Show Information
[Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series > Big Block = 70's !
I talked to the sales manager that was at CB03 about this in depth ...he asked a lot of questions about my car,but basically it came down to making sure the mufflers matched the need. For a big block he recommended the 70's. He seemed to think they would have a better flow to handle a big block output. Those baby's are huge. Bought a pair but not on yet. I have also read that you don't want to go too big on the pipes.for a street car big block everything I read said 2.5 is the way to go. Not if you have a strip car strictly performance/highly modified...then maybe go 3 inches, but I have read where too large for a street engine will cause a loss in torque. My 396 will get the 70's and 2.5 inch pipe with an X pipe up front.which unfortunately at last check Flowmaster didn't make or sell. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of LandMMilanoSent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 2:07 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series yea, there is 4 inches diff. in the two sizes, the motor is a stock 396 with hooker headers, the exhaust on it now is "original" and has a few holes in the pipes behind the mufflers. also the exhaust will run out the back to the bumper a full system.., no turn downs. I will prob. stay with the 30's, buy the way I am looking at a 2.5in system. - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 12:21 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series The biggest difference between the 30 and 40 series is the physical dimensions of the muffler itself. 50 series are the same physical size as the 30 series, but are quieter. I have 50s on a SBC and they sound great IMO. I am glad I didnt get the louder ones. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of LandMMilanoSent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 11:52 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
I have a sound bite of my 454's exhaust with 40 series flows and the H-pipe. Email me if anyone wants it. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
Actually, on this subject.Popular Hot Rodding magazine did a test on this. They took a Olds 442, and tested all the different types. They made a removable piece, so it was all the same, and ran through the same mufflers. It produced the most HP with open headers, then the X-pipe, then H-pipe, then regular dual exhaust. I dont remember all the results, but I remember the H-pipe gave that car 15 more HP over the regular dual exhaust. I dont know if anybody has this issue or not. -Tim-1966 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] right tape wrong tape?
Title: Re: [Chevelle-list] right tape wrong tape? I used some electrical tape to patch some gaps in the old wrapping, and it dd not work well. After a few weeks, the electrical tape became very sticky and 'slimy,' for lack of a better word, and picked up dirt and grease like thre was no tomorrow. Perhaps if the electrical tape was in a sheltered place, away from heat, it would have worked better. I can't imagine that the wires care what sort of tape is used, so go nuts! Dave. >One more question on the nonstick tape for the rewraping of the harnesses. Has anyone ever wrapped the old tape on the harnesses rather than remove and install new tape? Would leaving the old tape have any affect on the wiring? That way I could leave the old tape and use regular black electrical on top of the existing harness? Maybe a stupid question. Thanks Joe 69 Chevelle -- www.swingvictoria.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
I have a 454, with 40 series mufflers...2.5 inch exhaust, with a H-Pipe. I really like the sound, sounds clean and nice. They sound great at idle, but they really open up when you step on it. I do have it recorded, but its really distorted, and doesnt sound anything like it. I love the soundthe H-pipe helps in that its a even soundAny questions, feel free to ask. -Tim-1966 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] right tape wrong tape?
One more question on the nonstick tape for the rewraping of the harnesses. Has anyone ever wrapped the old tape on the harnesses rather than remove and install new tape? Would leaving the old tape have any affect on the wiring? That way I could leave the old tape and use regular black electrical on top of the existing harness? Maybe a stupid question. Thanks Joe 69 Chevelle
RE: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
thanks Herb! now I'm really curious how they sound! At 07:27 PM 10/30/2003 -0500, you wrote: Actually the X isn't designed to make the exhaust gasses "collide." The two links below will explain the theory behind the X pipe with comparisons to a traditional H pipe. http://www.drgas.com/art-sync.html http://www.drgas.com/art-syncronicity.html I have the Dr. Gas X crossover on my El Camino and yes it does sound different, but I'm sure the Spin Tech mufflers account for most of that. However, a few years back I had a '72 Corvette with a stock 350. I added cheap Blackjack headers and had a complete 3" exhaust built that used a Dr. Gas X pipe and a pair of 3 chamber Flowmasters. It sounded extremely different from any Flowmaster equipped car I ever heard. It had the typical Flowmaster sound at idle, but once the rpm went up the pitch changed and the trademark Flowmaster sound dissappeared. I thought it sounded so cool that I'd take out the back window whenever the weather was good so I could hear it better while driving. Herb Lumpp http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Matthew Post Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 4:09 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe So does that make the X pipe a benefit by creating more back pressure? Also, I heard that the X pipe will have a different sound than an H pipe. Can anyone with an X pipe confirm that? At 03:15 PM 10/30/2003 -0500, you wrote: The big difference is that the X pipe forces the gasses from both sides to collide, whereas the H-pipe compensates for uneven pressure by allowing a pass-through from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side. If your engine puts precisely the same amount of pressure into both sides, it could be argued that the H pipe would not "do" anything at all. John Nasta
RE: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
Just a thought, but I recently read of a car being stolen from a left coast car show where the owner had taken the coil wire off as he was touring the show field. Someone simply stole a coil wire from another car, put it on his and drove off...a $30,000 56 Nomad. Personally, I like a fuel shutoff valve or a separate switch for an electric pump. It may allow the thief to get a block or two but then stalls and dies. Ususally they'll leave the car where it sits. If they're really after your car, they'll simply put it on a rollback and be done with it. Dale McIntosh > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring > > > > I don't have an alarm system, locking hood mechanism or cut > off switch. However, when leaving the car unattended for any > length of time, mall / restaurant and it's not in eye sight - > I have paranoid myself into taking the coil wire with me. > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 SS #'s matching > > > > > > John wrote: > > Actually, I was thinking that it's a great way to make it > easy to steal the car. > > > > John Nasta > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > > > Malibu65 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > It's mounted > in an inconspicuous place under the dash but within arms > reach. It goes from a good battery source, through the > switch, right to the starter solenoid. > > > That's a good, cheap anti theft device too. :-))) > > BL > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
Actually the X isn't designed to make the exhaust gasses "collide." The two links below will explain the theory behind the X pipe with comparisons to a traditional H pipe. http://www.drgas.com/art-sync.html http://www.drgas.com/art-syncronicity.html I have the Dr. Gas X crossover on my El Camino and yes it does sound different, but I'm sure the Spin Tech mufflers account for most of that. However, a few years back I had a '72 Corvette with a stock 350. I added cheap Blackjack headers and had a complete 3" exhaust built that used a Dr. Gas X pipe and a pair of 3 chamber Flowmasters. It sounded extremely different from any Flowmaster equipped car I ever heard. It had the typical Flowmaster sound at idle, but once the rpm went up the pitch changed and the trademark Flowmaster sound dissappeared. I thought it sounded so cool that I'd take out the back window whenever the weather was good so I could hear it better while driving. Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Matthew PostSent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 4:09 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipeSo does that make the X pipe a benefit by creating more back pressure? Also, I heard that the X pipe will have a different sound than an H pipe. Can anyone with an X pipe confirm that?At 03:15 PM 10/30/2003 -0500, you wrote: The big difference is that the X pipe forces the gasses from both sides to collide, whereas the H-pipe compensates for uneven pressure by allowing a pass-through from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side. If your engine puts precisely the same amount of pressure into both sides, it could be argued that the H pipe would not "do" anything at all. John Nasta
Re: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
I had an "H" pipe on my 1968 396 bb and the "H" pipe evens out the pulses! OKAY I GUESS? I then put an "X" pipe and The sound is not a even, and the rumble is there (were it should be) as far as sound and vibration. I also installed "spin-tech race quite" mufflers. I love it! This sound is either "LOVE" or "HATE". Jeff Wysocki Brownstown Twp., Michigan 1970 Chevelle SS 1968 Chevelle 396 - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 3:15 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe The big difference is that the X pipe forces the gasses from both sides to collide, whereas the H-pipe compensates for uneven pressure by allowing a pass-through from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side. If your engine puts precisely the same amount of pressure into both sides, it could be argued that the H pipe would not "do" anything at all. John Nasta
[Chevelle-list] Engine Bay Pictures Needed
I need some engine bay pictures of a 66 small block car, non AC. I am redoing the engine compartment, wiring, and some other misc. things that need to be fixed on this car since someone else butchered it. I would prefer some pictures of a stock setup, but any small block V-8 will do. Email them directly to me. Thanks! Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] bare metal (use metal prep or sand?)
In a message dated 10/30/2003 4:17:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My chevelle is down to bare metal. I have striped & sanded it this summer in my garage. I want to prime it to seal it from moister. Should I use metal prep or not?Some say yes because of microscopic rust. Others like my nieghbor say no, "We never used it years ago, why do we need it?)I'm not to crazy about rinsing my bare metal with water (that what the directions for metal prep say to do)Anyone have any info on this?Thanks! Take a cloth with a bucket of water and wipe it off and dry it. It will not make it rust right away. I left both of my Chevelles in bare metal for months at a time while in the garage up on the rotisserie. Go to a paint store and get some self etching primer/2 part epoxy primer. This will seal it and keep the rust off it. Tom
[Chevelle-list] bare metal (use metal prep or sand?)
My chevelle is down to bare metal. I have striped & sanded it this summer in my garage. I want to prime it to seal it from moister. Should I use metal prep or not? Some say yes because of microscopic rust. Others like my nieghbor say no, "We never used it years ago, why do we need it?) I'm not to crazy about rinsing my bare metal with water (that what the directions for metal prep say to do) Anyone have any info on this? Thanks!
Re: [Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
So does that make the X pipe a benefit by creating more back pressure? Also, I heard that the X pipe will have a different sound than an H pipe. Can anyone with an X pipe confirm that? At 03:15 PM 10/30/2003 -0500, you wrote: The big difference is that the X pipe forces the gasses from both sides to collide, whereas the H-pipe compensates for uneven pressure by allowing a pass-through from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side. If your engine puts precisely the same amount of pressure into both sides, it could be argued that the H pipe would not "do" anything at all. John Nasta
[Chevelle-list] H pipe vs. X pipe
The big difference is that the X pipe forces the gasses from both sides to collide, whereas the H-pipe compensates for uneven pressure by allowing a pass-through from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side. If your engine puts precisely the same amount of pressure into both sides, it could be argued that the H pipe would not "do" anything at all. John Nasta
RE: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
Ditto that! I had 30's on my SBC stroker motor and recently went to 50's. Still loud and mean, but not quite the open pipe sound of before. :) -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John NastaSent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 1:22 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series The biggest difference between the 30 and 40 series is the physical dimensions of the muffler itself. 50 series are the same physical size as the 30 series, but are quieter. I have 50s on a SBC and they sound great IMO. I am glad I didn’t get the louder ones. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of LandMMilanoSent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 11:52 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks.
RE: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
I don't have an alarm system, locking hood mechanism or cut off switch. However, when leaving the car unattended for any length of time, mall / restaurant and it's not in eye sight - I have paranoid myself into taking the coil wire with me. Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s matching John wrote: Actually, I was thinking that it's a great way to make it easy to steal the car. John Nasta -Original Message- Malibu65 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: It's mounted in an inconspicuous place under the dash but within arms reach. It goes from a good battery source, through the switch, right to the starter solenoid. That's a good, cheap anti theft device too. :-))) BL
RE: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
John Nasta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Actually, I was thinking that its a great way to make it easy to steal the car. John Nasta As long as you have to have the key to turn on the other components, it can work. My father-in -law had to park in an out of the way place where he worked, & cars were always being broken into & stolen. He put a switch under the dash on his Monte Carlo that disabled the ignition, and although the window was busted out twice, and the key tumbler popped out of the column, the car was never stolen. He finally just stopped locking the car so the windows wouldn't be broken. After he did that , no one bothered the old Monte again--I guess the thieves knew the car & went for easier pickings. BL
Re: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
On Thu, Oct 30, 2003 at 01:22:34PM -0500, John Nasta wrote: > Actually, I was thinking that its a great way to make it easy to steal the > car. > > John Nasta Well, If the thief first goes under the hood they won't find a battery to hot wire from... And I did tell you I have an electric fuel pump but I'll stop there... -ChuckK > Malibu65 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > It's mounted > in an inconspicuous place under the dash but within arms reach. It goes from > a good battery source, through the switch, right to the starter solenoid. > > That's a good, cheap anti theft device too. :-))) > BL
Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
You think the X pipe is much better than the H pipe? or about the same? - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 1:00 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series Hi Guys, I recently bought original flows 40 series for my 383 equipped 65 elky. I have dyno max headers, 2 1/2" pipes, a Dr gas X pipe with outlets just after the rear wheels and it sounds perfect. I had a set of Summit turbos on this car with the same setup.too loud..lots of resonance, I replaced them with Dynomax super turbostoo quiet...couldn`t even hear the rump of the camswitched to the present 40`s expecting resonance, and was totally surprised that is is minimal. The X pipe has a lot to do with it, I think the X pipe is an investment well worth the money. I now have what I believe is the perfect exhaust note. You can hear all the rump of the cam, excellent sound outside the vehicle and just righjt inside. The best part is the 40`s are all over ebay for about $45 delivered. just my $.02. Bob Myers, SD
Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
Hi Guys, I recently bought original flows 40 series for my 383 equipped 65 elky. I have dyno max headers, 2 1/2" pipes, a Dr gas X pipe with outlets just after the rear wheels and it sounds perfect. I had a set of Summit turbos on this car with the same setup.too loud..lots of resonance, I replaced them with Dynomax super turbostoo quiet...couldn`t even hear the rump of the camswitched to the present 40`s expecting resonance, and was totally surprised that is is minimal. The X pipe has a lot to do with it, I think the X pipe is an investment well worth the money. I now have what I believe is the perfect exhaust note. You can hear all the rump of the cam, excellent sound outside the vehicle and just righjt inside. The best part is the 40`s are all over ebay for about $45 delivered. just my $.02. Bob Myers, SD
Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
yea, there is 4 inches diff. in the two sizes, the motor is a stock 396 with hooker headers, the exhaust on it now is "original" and has a few holes in the pipes behind the mufflers. also the exhaust will run out the back to the bumper a full system.., no turn downs. I will prob. stay with the 30's, buy the way I am looking at a 2.5in system. - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 12:21 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series The biggest difference between the 30 and 40 series is the physical dimensions of the muffler itself. 50 series are the same physical size as the 30 series, but are quieter. I have 50s on a SBC and they sound great IMO. I am glad I didnt get the louder ones. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of LandMMilanoSent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 11:52 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
Are you set on flowmasters? I personally don't car for them much... horsepower suckers. The 30's are supposedly their redesign "high Performance" line. I haven't heard them, but would be real interested to see how they do. The 40's series is a pretty loud 2 chamber. If you have an semi agressive BBC they will roar... but obviously sound is detirminant on many factors like combo, exhaust size, exhaust design, etc. The 50's series would be a bit more mellow... 70's series is mellower yet. Hard to say what muff to choose not knowing your combo and personal tastes. My motors are usually pretty extreme (at least that is what the locals say LOL) and I grew out of the louder is better phase a long time ago. I still really like the Dynomax and the Hooker Mufflers. They are among the best in terms of preserving HP on a dyno and are cheaper then the flowmasters. Bang for the buck... I love the DynoMax Turbo muffs. Not obnoxiosly loud, but enough growl to let people know you are there :) Not sure what size you want... but I have a set of 2 1/2 Rhino Mufflers lying around. Used for about 20 passes. They are similar to the flowmaster 40's, but are better performance wise. They really growl nice on the throttle. Mikey From: "LandMMilano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 10:51:46 -0600 on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks. _ Send instant messages to anyone on your contact list with MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
RE: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
The biggest difference between the 30 and 40 series is the physical dimensions of the muffler itself. 50 series are the same physical size as the 30 series, but are quieter. I have 50s on a SBC and they sound great IMO. I am glad I didn’t get the louder ones. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of LandMMilano Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 11:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks.
RE: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
Actually, I was thinking that it’s a great way to make it easy to steal the car. John Nasta -Original Message- Malibu65 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: It's mounted in an inconspicuous place under the dash but within arms reach. It goes from a good battery source, through the switch, right to the starter solenoid. That's a good, cheap anti theft device too. :-))) BL
RE: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow serie s
i run the sgl chamber flows and with 14:1 comp, solid roller they sound like thunder coming down the road. heads just turn... -Original Message-From: LandMMilano [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 11:52 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks.
[Chevelle-list] Flowmaster's 30 series or 40 delta flow series
on their system guide they recommend the 30 series for chevelle, GTO/lemans, buick gs and the 40 delta flow for a camaro, mustang, firebird. Hmm, most of the camaro,mustangs I know have small blocks, my chevelle is a BB. Does anyone have BB with 40's on it. How does it sound, flowmaster only gives SB examples on their web site. thanks.
Re: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
Malibu65 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: It's mountedin an inconspicuous place under the dash but within arms reach. It goes froma good battery source, through the switch, right to the starter solenoid. That's a good, cheap anti theft device too. :-))) BL
Re: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
way to go Chuck.
Re: [Chevelle-list] fun with cars
Holy Sh*t, I got in trouble watching it at work because I did'nt know what to expect. I darn near fell out of my chair laughing and had to show it to my boss and when he laughed it was OK. Good Video!!
RE: [Chevelle-list] fun with cars
Good one, John. Rich -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 10:42 PM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-list] fun with cars http://www.darefugees.com/steve/antena1.mpeg John Nasta
Re: [Chevelle-list] Headlights
I just had lots of fun trying to get the lights working in this Beaumont. The main problems where bad ground and the high, low beam switch. It sounds like you have a ground problems also. I don't think it is a switch problem with yours. Dave Ingersoll,Ontario My web site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/ - Original Message - From: "Dennis Kiernan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 2:32 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Headlights > > Symptom: On low beam, the right side doesnt light, only the left. On > high beam, the highs come on, as well as both the low beams. > > Diagnosis? > > DK > SF >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Headlights
In a message dated 10/30/2003 2:32:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Symptom: On low beam, the right side doesnt light, only the left. On high beam, the highs come on, as well as both the low beams. l assume you checked the connections and there's power to that terminal on the back of bulb: Then that means the low beam portion of the bulb is burned out but high beam portion still works. Means you need new bulb. Maybe two if other one is just as old. GE halogen sealed beams are the way to go unless you need T3's for a restoration. Pete Geurds 64 Chevelle(s)
Re: [Chevelle-list] Headlights
Heya! This used to happen to me. It turned out to be a combination of bad grounds at the headlights, as well as burnt connectors. Buy a dozen 0.375" (check that, it might be different for stock lights. That's 3/8") female spade terminals and some heatshrink, and replace the old connectors. Clean the grounds as well. :-) I also inserted relays and replaced all the wire with heavier gauge, as I went to 60w H4s. What a difference! I'd recommend it if you ever drive at nighttime, and don't need to keep your car totally original. Hope this helps, Dave. Symptom: On low beam, the right side doesnt light, only the left. On high beam, the highs come on, as well as both the low beams. Diagnosis? DK SF -- www.swingvictoria.com
[Chevelle-list] Headlights
Symptom: On low beam, the right side doesnt light, only the left. On high beam, the highs come on, as well as both the low beams. Diagnosis? DK SF
Re: [Chevelle-list] starter wiring
> Hi all, >In regard to Ignition Switches and key switches. The ignition switch is > the electrical part and what some people call the key switch would actually > be the key tumbler which is known as the ignition tumbler and keys. Just > wanted to let you know so you don't order the wrong part at a store. > Ken Ken's right, I'm an electronics technician. I would call it a: Key enabled, four operation, rotary Switch, with spring return start function. I couldn't begin to get the electrical assignments right. Like D P D T is double pole double throw. The car switch does: Accessories, Off, Ignition On, Start. As its four functions. What the list needs is the input from the experts like parts men and mechanics. They know the right nomenclature. I can see getting all of the right stuff to keep your car as original as possible. What I had done was after I had installed a trunk battery installation kit, (from Mr Gasket) I found my starter was not engaging. (just like my on my '57 Chevy years ago) I had unpluged and cleaned the contacts on the bulkhead connectors at the firewall and eliminated the neutral switch. (had removed the automatic and installed a M21) Soldered, used heat srink tubing, and wrapped the splice. Still no starter engagement. So I got out the VOM multimeter and did some resistance measurements. Checked grounds and then the Ignition Switch. When I twisted the key, I found there was a few hundred ohms of resistance where there should be just a few ohms. So instead of replacing the switch, I added a spring return Single Pole Single Throw toggle switch. It's mounted in an inconspicuous place under the dash but within arms reach. It goes from a good battery source, through the switch, right to the starter solenoid. Now when I turn the key to on, you can hear the Carter rotary fuel pump in the back spin up, and just reach down and tug the toggle switch to start it up. Fun -ChuckK --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1965 Chevelle Malibu 327 4 spd 3.73s -ex 283 powerglide It's got my amateur radio call sign on the license plates! ---
