Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ...
I was having starter problems ever since I got my Malibu 4 years ago. It would start ok cold, but not when hot. I installed a starter heat shield, which seemed to work for a couple of years, but last year it started failing, hot or cold. I trouble shooted all the voltages, etc. Finally, I went to Advanced Auto, bought a $10 solenoid, and problem solved. It even starts fine without the heat shield. I think the solenoid has been failing slowly every since I got the car. Tom Tomlinson - Original Message - From: "Dennis Kiernan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2004 10:01 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ... > OK, here's something similiar. Suppose when you turn the ignition to > Start, about a fourth of the time you get just the "click", and when > you turn the key back to Off and then to Start again, the engine > fires right up? > > I'm making a wild guess that either the starter solenoid or the > ignition switch is dying. I cant diagnose electrical stuff, so I > sort of follow the philosophy of whatever is getting near its > natural life-span, replace that and see if it solves the problem. > > So what's the natural life span of these parts of the system? And is > there a more professioonal way to do it? > > Graham Wooden wrote: > > > > In addition, the Voltage Regulator clicks as well when I turn the key to > > start - is this normal? Since this is the first time the car has been wired > > (I have ran the engine with a self-contained HEI starter unit), I don't have > > anything to go against... Thanks, > > > > -Graham > > > > On 12/19/04 5:10 PM, "Graham Wooden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > Thanks for the email Steve; the wiring is actually new - a bumper to bumper > > > kit and should be to today's standards. However, I will double check that and > > > the voltage at the starter ... Thanks again! > > > > > > -Graham > > > > > > > > > On 12/19/04 2:38 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > >> Its been a long time since I did any wiring on my car, but I think I had the > > >> same problem or something similar to your problem due to a voltage drop > > >> (About > > >> 8 volts -vs- 12+). I believe it was caused by a factory resistor that > > >> reduces > > >> your ignition voltage down for stock applications. I was installing HEI and > > >> it needed a full 12 volts to even start. Is there a posibility that your > > >> power lead is running through one of these resistors? > > >> > > >> Good luck, I know electrical work can be a nightmare, but one of these guys > > >> on > > >> the list can definitely pull you through. > > >> Steve > > >>> > > >>> From: Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >>> Date: 2004/12/17 Fri PM 07:33:48 EST > > >>> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >>> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ... > > >>> > > >>> So I decided to take a "brake" from the Wilwood front-disc install to finish > > >>> up > > >>> on the new wiring kit. However, there seems to be an issue with my starter. > > >>> > > >>> When I turn the key to the Start, it ingages the starter but doesn't turn > > >>> nor > > >>> re-tract it back in - making a click only. Turning the key back to Off and > > >>> then to Start just makes the click ... > > >>> > > >>> So, what could this be? A bad starter? Bad connection? Bad ground? > > >>> I know it could be a shot in the dark, but thought I would ask you all. I > > >>> guess > > >>> I will take it out to get tested. > > >>> > > >>> -Graham > > >>> > > >>> 67 Chevelle SS > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >> > > >> > > -- > Dennis Kiernan > San Francisco >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ...
OK, here's something similiar. Suppose when you turn the ignition to Start, about a fourth of the time you get just the "click", and when you turn the key back to Off and then to Start again, the engine fires right up? I'm making a wild guess that either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch is dying. I cant diagnose electrical stuff, so I sort of follow the philosophy of whatever is getting near its natural life-span, replace that and see if it solves the problem. So what's the natural life span of these parts of the system? And is there a more professioonal way to do it? Graham Wooden wrote: > > In addition, the Voltage Regulator clicks as well when I turn the key to > start - is this normal? Since this is the first time the car has been wired > (I have ran the engine with a self-contained HEI starter unit), I don't have > anything to go against... Thanks, > > -Graham > > On 12/19/04 5:10 PM, "Graham Wooden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Thanks for the email Steve; the wiring is actually new - a bumper to bumper > > kit and should be to today's standards. However, I will double check that > > and > > the voltage at the starter ... Thanks again! > > > > -Graham > > > > > > On 12/19/04 2:38 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >> Its been a long time since I did any wiring on my car, but I think I had > >> the > >> same problem or something similar to your problem due to a voltage drop > >> (About > >> 8 volts -vs- 12+). I believe it was caused by a factory resistor that > >> reduces > >> your ignition voltage down for stock applications. I was installing HEI > >> and > >> it needed a full 12 volts to even start. Is there a posibility that your > >> power lead is running through one of these resistors? > >> > >> Good luck, I know electrical work can be a nightmare, but one of these guys > >> on > >> the list can definitely pull you through. > >> Steve > >>> > >>> From: Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> Date: 2004/12/17 Fri PM 07:33:48 EST > >>> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ... > >>> > >>> So I decided to take a "brake" from the Wilwood front-disc install to > >>> finish > >>> up > >>> on the new wiring kit. However, there seems to be an issue with my > >>> starter. > >>> > >>> When I turn the key to the Start, it ingages the starter but doesn't turn > >>> nor > >>> re-tract it back in - making a click only. Turning the key back to Off > >>> and > >>> then to Start just makes the click ... > >>> > >>> So, what could this be? A bad starter? Bad connection? Bad ground? > >>> I know it could be a shot in the dark, but thought I would ask you all. I > >>> guess > >>> I will take it out to get tested. > >>> > >>> -Graham > >>> > >>> 67 Chevelle SS > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> -- Dennis Kiernan San Francisco
Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ...
In addition, the Voltage Regulator clicks as well when I turn the key to start - is this normal? Since this is the first time the car has been wired (I have ran the engine with a self-contained HEI starter unit), I don't have anything to go against... Thanks, -Graham On 12/19/04 5:10 PM, "Graham Wooden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Thanks for the email Steve; the wiring is actually new - a bumper to bumper > kit and should be to today's standards. However, I will double check that and > the voltage at the starter ... Thanks again! > > -Graham > > > On 12/19/04 2:38 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Its been a long time since I did any wiring on my car, but I think I had the >> same problem or something similar to your problem due to a voltage drop >> (About >> 8 volts -vs- 12+). I believe it was caused by a factory resistor that >> reduces >> your ignition voltage down for stock applications. I was installing HEI and >> it needed a full 12 volts to even start. Is there a posibility that your >> power lead is running through one of these resistors? >> >> Good luck, I know electrical work can be a nightmare, but one of these guys >> on >> the list can definitely pull you through. >> Steve >>> >>> From: Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> Date: 2004/12/17 Fri PM 07:33:48 EST >>> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ... >>> >>> So I decided to take a "brake" from the Wilwood front-disc install to finish >>> up >>> on the new wiring kit. However, there seems to be an issue with my starter. >>> >>> When I turn the key to the Start, it ingages the starter but doesn't turn >>> nor >>> re-tract it back in - making a click only. Turning the key back to Off and >>> then to Start just makes the click ... >>> >>> So, what could this be? A bad starter? Bad connection? Bad ground? >>> I know it could be a shot in the dark, but thought I would ask you all. I >>> guess >>> I will take it out to get tested. >>> >>> -Graham >>> >>> 67 Chevelle SS >>> >>> >>> >> >>
Re: [Chevelle-list] power steering conversion
Thanks Bill. It's beginning to look like I can get a short water pump bracket from Zoops for a Type II pump, and the pump and remote reservoir are available in polished aluminum from Summit. Summit also sells a box with a 12:1 ratio made by AGR. As far as the lines go, it looks like Russell produces "Powerflex" hoses and ends, made for high pressure applications, like brakes and power steering. This will all be a bit pricey but have the look I want. Bill, Thanks for your reply. I think all of the parts are available from Zoops and Summit. Russell makes hose and endings specifically for this application, called "Powerflex" hoses and endings. I will probably go with a billet Type II pump with remote reservoir. Thanks again, Fred On Dec 19, 2004, at 6:50 PM, Bill Lessenberry wrote: At 12:53 PM 12/19/2004, you wrote: Bill, Thanks for your reply. I am using a short water pump, no ac. I'd like the pump to be on the driver side to minimize the pump-to-steering box hose. I would particularly like to know any advantages/disadvantages to the Saginaw vs. the Type II Sorry, I don't have any experience there, so I can't help. and the remote vs. the attached reservoir. I believe that you have to use a remote reservoir because of clearance problems with the alternator. I am interested in the polished aluminum Type II pump sold by Summit, for one reason it uses -AN fittings. I would also like it to look as good as possible. You could use an aluminum remote reservoir with the AN fittings & hoses for a nice look on the supply and return side, but I'd check the specs on the hose that you use on the pressure side. P/S pumps are capable of 1200 psi or more, & you don't want a hose or fitting to leak or break. BL
Re: [Chevelle-list] power steering conversion
At 12:53 PM 12/19/2004, you wrote: Bill, Thanks for your reply. I am using a short water pump, no ac. I'd like the pump to be on the driver side to minimize the pump-to-steering box hose. I would particularly like to know any advantages/disadvantages to the Saginaw vs. the Type II Sorry, I don't have any experience there, so I can't help. and the remote vs. the attached reservoir. I believe that you have to use a remote reservoir because of clearance problems with the alternator. I am interested in the polished aluminum Type II pump sold by Summit, for one reason it uses -AN fittings. I would also like it to look as good as possible. You could use an aluminum remote reservoir with the AN fittings & hoses for a nice look on the supply and return side, but I'd check the specs on the hose that you use on the pressure side. P/S pumps are capable of 1200 psi or more, & you don't want a hose or fitting to leak or break. BL
Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ...
Thanks for the email Steve; the wiring is actually new - a bumper to bumper kit and should be to today's standards. However, I will double check that and the voltage at the starter ... Thanks again! -Graham On 12/19/04 2:38 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Its been a long time since I did any wiring on my car, but I think I had the > same problem or something similar to your problem due to a voltage drop (About > 8 volts -vs- 12+). I believe it was caused by a factory resistor that reduces > your ignition voltage down for stock applications. I was installing HEI and > it needed a full 12 volts to even start. Is there a posibility that your > power lead is running through one of these resistors? > > Good luck, I know electrical work can be a nightmare, but one of these guys on > the list can definitely pull you through. > Steve >> >> From: Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Date: 2004/12/17 Fri PM 07:33:48 EST >> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ... >> >> So I decided to take a "brake" from the Wilwood front-disc install to finish >> up >> on the new wiring kit. However, there seems to be an issue with my starter. >> >> When I turn the key to the Start, it ingages the starter but doesn't turn nor >> re-tract it back in - making a click only. Turning the key back to Off and >> then to Start just makes the click ... >> >> So, what could this be? A bad starter? Bad connection? Bad ground? >> I know it could be a shot in the dark, but thought I would ask you all. I >> guess >> I will take it out to get tested. >> >> -Graham >> >> 67 Chevelle SS >> >> >> > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ...
Its been a long time since I did any wiring on my car, but I think I had the same problem or something similar to your problem due to a voltage drop (About 8 volts -vs- 12+). I believe it was caused by a factory resistor that reduces your ignition voltage down for stock applications. I was installing HEI and it needed a full 12 volts to even start. Is there a posibility that your power lead is running through one of these resistors? Good luck, I know electrical work can be a nightmare, but one of these guys on the list can definitely pull you through. Steve > > From: Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2004/12/17 Fri PM 07:33:48 EST > To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter issues ... > > So I decided to take a "brake" from the Wilwood front-disc install to finish > up > on the new wiring kit. However, there seems to be an issue with my starter. > > When I turn the key to the Start, it ingages the starter but doesn't turn nor > re-tract it back in - making a click only. Turning the key back to Off and > then to Start just makes the click ... > > So, what could this be? A bad starter? Bad connection? Bad ground? > I know it could be a shot in the dark, but thought I would ask you all. I > guess > I will take it out to get tested. > > -Graham > > 67 Chevelle SS > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] power steering conversion
Bill, Thanks for your reply. I am using a short water pump, no ac. I'd like the pump to be on the driver side to minimize the pump-to-steering box hose. I would particularly like to know any advantages/disadvantages to the Saginaw vs. the Type II, and the remote vs. the attached reservoir. I am interested in the polished aluminum Type II pump sold by Summit, for one reason it uses -AN fittings. I would also like it to look as good as possible. I appreciate any thoughts/advice, Fred On Dec 19, 2004, at 12:03 PM, Bill Lessenberry wrote: At 09:51 PM 12/17/2004, you wrote: Hi Folks, I am planning a conversion to power steering for a '68 Chevelle, and could use your experience/wisdom re parts and compatibility. The steering box I am looking at is in Summit and is produced by AGR. It is the only new one I have yet found. Are you going to use the 1968 style parts that bolt on the left side of the motor with the remote reservoir and the short water pump, or the more common 69-up that uses the long water pump? Do you have A/C? The 68 stuff is pretty much 2-year only (67 & 68). I need more details in order to help. BL
[Chevelle-list] Smart GLow Fuse
Anyone use these? - http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-6391/c-10101 I’m wondering how bright they are. A few of my vehicles have some fuses in some pretty dark tight places. - JB
Re: [Chevelle-list] Splice or Solder
Absolutely great answer.What I'm doing now is out of the car so it will be soldered. Thanx for the input & reinforcing/reminding me of several things that I once knew. On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 18:18:37 -0500, Dan McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Great answer! > > Dan McIntosh > 1962 Impala > Street Metal Fabrications > http://www.lowriderimpala.com > - Original Message - > From: Mike Sanders K0AZ > To: Rick Schaefer ; The Chevelle Mailing List > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 2:38 PM > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Splice or Solder > > The biggest problem with soldering is the person holding the iron/gun > whatever > USUALLY. Most folks just have no experience in soldering. Your comment about > a solder joint needing to have mechanical integrity is absolutely correct. > It is the > first step to a good joint. The next step is to get proper heating of > both/all elements > to be soldered and then apply the solder to the joint. It is not correct to > apply the > soldering tool to the solder to get it to melt. It is correct to apply the > solder to the > hot joint and have it melt evenly over the joint. > Also electrical soldering has no resemblance to body soldering or Acid Core > type soldering. > Once a joint is properly executed it should still be covered in a means to > protect it > from the elements that can and will cause oxidation. > > Crimp joints are just like solder joints. Using the right tools and > techniques is the key to > having good crimp joints. And as with a solder joint it also requires > attention after the > fact to protect it from the elements. > > You can go either way as long as the joint is properly done be it solder or > crimp. I use > both ways but generally lean towards soldering. However in a vehicle I > usually lean towards > crimp and other compression joints. It's just easier than soldering a > connection under a dash > and having molten solder drip on your nose. > > Yeah, I know I am gonna get hammered on this one because everyone has an > opinion that > has to be one way or the other. > > > Hey! Merry Christmaswhile I'm at it. > > > K0AZ > Michael D. Sanders > 18169 Highway 174 > MT Vernon, MO 65712 > Lawrence County ARES EC > 6 Meter DXCC #436 > 6 Meter WAZ #37 > 6 Meter WAS WAC VUCC WAJD > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rick Schaefer > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 1:04 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Splice or Solder > > >I've always thought that a solder joint was better electrically > than a crimp connection. But I found 2 internet references that say > a solder joint has higher resistance than a crimp. I know that a > solder joint should first be mechanically sound, so why would a crimp > be better? > > -- > Rick Schaefer > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 12/9/04 > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 12/9/04 > > -- Rick Schaefer
Re: [Chevelle-list] power steering conversion
At 09:51 PM 12/17/2004, you wrote: Hi Folks, I am planning a conversion to power steering for a '68 Chevelle, and could use your experience/wisdom re parts and compatibility. The steering box I am looking at is in Summit and is produced by AGR. It is the only new one I have yet found. Are you going to use the 1968 style parts that bolt on the left side of the motor with the remote reservoir and the short water pump, or the more common 69-up that uses the long water pump? Do you have A/C? The 68 stuff is pretty much 2-year only (67 & 68). I need more details in order to help. BL
