Re: [Chevelle-list] Car will absolutely not idle
Title: Re: Car will absolutely not idle Shawn sez “Thomas, Sounds like you may just have a vacuum leak. Could be a bad hose, like to the distributor or the big one to the brake booster. Check all those, and maybe even block them all off and check your timing and lastly the idle mixture on the carb. Also pull the plugs and see if any of them are black or wet (showing that that cylinder is not firing).” Well, tonight I checked the suspect spark plugs – all okay. I replaced the PCV valve with a new hose, even the old hose looked very good. I pulled a block off plug off the carb metering block, and could see just a shade of daylight shining through to the inside. GOTCHA!!! I replaced all the plugs on the carb (like I said earlier – I have no vacuum advance on the distributor and no brake booster either), and she was easy to keep running at 800 RPM. The engine was cold, so it wanted to drop to 500-600 area and quit, but it would idle at 800 just fine if I kept a small bit of pressure on the pedal. Looks as if we found that gremlin. Tomorrow I will take a road test to warm her up, and adjust the idle to about 800 afterwards. If anything else creeps up – I will keep you informed. Oh – and I will never underestimate a vacuum leak again. Say it 3 times… I will never underestimate a vacuum leak again I will never underestimate a vacuum leak again I will never underestimate a vacuum leak again Thanks all! TJR Clovis, California 72 Chevelle, in shambles
Re: [Chevelle-list] Transmission ID TH400 Tag Decode
Walt: Try this site Transmission Identification & Decoding Larry (Z)
Re: [Chevelle-list] Transmission ID TH400 Tag Decode
From NastyZ28 : http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html Indicates to me that the 10y121647 is what will ID the source vehicle. If there is any more good info there, I'm not smart enuff to figure it out. Home sick tonite so I google and came up with these: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138006 http://www.teufert.net/trans/t-400.htm Best for last from Dales site : http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/69-71_pop_decoding.htm You may lookaround dales sites for something more specific to 70. Speaking of Dale, has he been seen recently? On 9/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Please DecodeTag info31570-C 4271110y121647 on drivers side above pan.Any help appreciated. I picked up a trans last night. I was just buying it as a rebuild-able core for racing. The fellow thought itwas mid seventies El Camino. My guess is that it came out of a 70Chevy ??? Just curious..if it is something rare I might not want topush 800 hp through it. Also, what book are you using to find this information?ThanksWalt-- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help
While you are checking vacumn hoses remove and block the one that goes down to the tranny. I had that problem with a cutlass many moons ago. On 9/20/06, Jim H. Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Put two cans of "dry gas" or one can of "stp" gas treatment. In the fuel tank and fill the tank. Replace fuel filter in the carb and any inline filters you might have. To test the timing – bring the #1 cylinder up. If you have a crank bolt put a socket on it and turn the engine until your timing marks line up. Then remove your dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the number #1 wire. If all that checks, out- get a can of "fast Start" spray ether. With the engine running spray ether below the carb onto the manifold and the base of the carb, any vacuum hoses you have. If the engine sucks in the ether it will rev and that shows you have a vacuum leak. Then move slowly around the engine spraying ether to isolate the problem. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Thomas RingleinSent: Monday, September 18, 2006 8:45 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help Okay – I got the car out of the garage today for its first long jaunt to the nearest gas station, and I learned a few things. First, some background… I joined the Air Force in 1997, and shortly afterwards, the Chevelle was parked at my Dad's place and driven on the rare occasion I had enough leave and money to get back to central California and enough time and patience to get the car out and drive it. However, upon retaking possession of the car about 4 months ago, it had not so much as been started in no less then 7 years. Ouch. Okay, so now I am back in Fresno, California, and planning on a tear down as soon as I find out if I got promoted or not (sometime in late Dec or Jan), but I want the car running so I can take it to local shops for advice on body work, etc.. I replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil and filter, made sure there was air in the ancient tires, charged the battery (new battery), topped off the tranny fluid, and started it up. Car starts just fine – but it will absolutely not idle. I took the carb apart and replaced all the gaskets since I had a leak or two. While I was in there, I replaced the power valve and checked the jets to make sure they were not clogged with anything. The carb was remarkably clean for a carb that was parked wet 8 years ago – it nearly looked like new. I adjusted the floats by turning the float bowl upside down and adjusting until level with the top/bottom of the bowl. I had my landlord take a look at my work because in his past life he was an auto mechanic for about 15 years. He gave the "thumbs up" on the carb work, and I buttoned it up. I took the car out to top off with some 91 octane "high test" gas, and it ran okay – but would not idle or run particularly well at anything under about 1300 RPM. I have to lightly pump the gas pedal to keep it running below 1300 RPM, and it will run okay from about 1300 until 1600 – where the engine finally kicks in. From about 800 to 1200, the car runs "rough" where it feels like the car wants to quit, but I am keeping it going with pumping the gas. The temp raised slowly until about 180* where it leveled off. Oil pressure held at about 60 pounds. The distributor (Mallory COMP 9000) is tight, so presumably it is where it was left 8 years ago when the car ran fine (I don't have a timing light – disappeared). The car did not start on fire (this time). I have been banging my head against the wall for a few weeks, so I ask the help of all you smart folks to help me figure it out. For some reason, I am thinking it may be the fuel pump (90% of presumed carb problems originate at the pump, right?). Some more details: 72 Chevelle, 350/TH350 combo Holley Vac Sec 600 CFM carb (Model 1860, I believe) I have not replaced the fuel filters yet – perhaps tomorrow I have one plug wire (#5 cylinder) that may or may not be bad. The 90* boot burned through many years ago, and I rigged it with spare parts to make it into a straight wire to get around the header (Hooker comp series, full length – circa 1990). It still has a very small spot where there is no rubber on the wire where it attaches to the plug, but it always worked just fine before. I know – I was in high school and spent all my money dating girls and rigged the car to keep it running. Dumb kid. What do you think? Is anyone still reading? TJR Clovis, California -- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El Camino
[Chevelle-list] '72 4-door for sale (WI)
>From today's Wisconsin State Journal: "Chevy '72 Chevelle: 4 door, 307 motor, Florida car, 98K miles. $2000/offer. 608/437-6724" 437 is the exchange for Mount Horeb, WI. I know 4-doors aren't the most sought-after Chevelles but someone might like it as a daily driver or perhaps as a teen's first car. Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help
Title: Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help Put two cans of “dry gas” or one can of “stp” gas treatment. In the fuel tank and fill the tank. Replace fuel filter in the carb and any inline filters you might have. To test the timing – bring the #1 cylinder up. If you have a crank bolt put a socket on it and turn the engine until your timing marks line up. Then remove your dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the number #1 wire. If all that checks, out- get a can of “fast Start” spray ether. With the engine running spray ether below the carb onto the manifold and the base of the carb, any vacuum hoses you have. If the engine sucks in the ether it will rev and that shows you have a vacuum leak. Then move slowly around the engine spraying ether to isolate the problem. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 8:45 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help Okay – I got the car out of the garage today for its first long jaunt to the nearest gas station, and I learned a few things. First, some background… I joined the Air Force in 1997, and shortly afterwards, the Chevelle was parked at my Dad’s place and driven on the rare occasion I had enough leave and money to get back to central California and enough time and patience to get the car out and drive it. However, upon retaking possession of the car about 4 months ago, it had not so much as been started in no less then 7 years. Ouch. Okay, so now I am back in Fresno, California, and planning on a tear down as soon as I find out if I got promoted or not (sometime in late Dec or Jan), but I want the car running so I can take it to local shops for advice on body work, etc.. I replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil and filter, made sure there was air in the ancient tires, charged the battery (new battery), topped off the tranny fluid, and started it up. Car starts just fine – but it will absolutely not idle. I took the carb apart and replaced all the gaskets since I had a leak or two. While I was in there, I replaced the power valve and checked the jets to make sure they were not clogged with anything. The carb was remarkably clean for a carb that was parked wet 8 years ago – it nearly looked like new. I adjusted the floats by turning the float bowl upside down and adjusting until level with the top/bottom of the bowl. I had my landlord take a look at my work because in his past life he was an auto mechanic for about 15 years. He gave the “thumbs up” on the carb work, and I buttoned it up. I took the car out to top off with some 91 octane “high test” gas, and it ran okay – but would not idle or run particularly well at anything under about 1300 RPM. I have to lightly pump the gas pedal to keep it running below 1300 RPM, and it will run okay from about 1300 until 1600 – where the engine finally kicks in. From about 800 to 1200, the car runs “rough” where it feels like the car wants to quit, but I am keeping it going with pumping the gas. The temp raised slowly until about 180* where it leveled off. Oil pressure held at about 60 pounds. The distributor (Mallory COMP 9000) is tight, so presumably it is where it was left 8 years ago when the car ran fine (I don’t have a timing light – disappeared). The car did not start on fire (this time). I have been banging my head against the wall for a few weeks, so I ask the help of all you smart folks to help me figure it out. For some reason, I am thinking it may be the fuel pump (90% of presumed carb problems originate at the pump, right?). Some more details: 72 Chevelle, 350/TH350 combo Holley Vac Sec 600 CFM carb (Model 1860, I believe) I have not replaced the fuel filters yet – perhaps tomorrow I have one plug wire (#5 cylinder) that may or may not be bad. The 90* boot burned through many years ago, and I rigged it with spare parts to make it into a straight wire to get around the header (Hooker comp series, full length – circa 1990). It still has a very small spot where there is no rubber on the wire where it attaches to the plug, but it always worked just fine before. I know – I was in high school and spent all my money dating girls and rigged the car to keep it running. Dumb kid. What do you think? Is anyone still reading? TJR Clovis, California
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help
sounds like you have electronic ignition, not points, so when you put the new plugs in did you adjust to the proper gap. Not the gap that is recommended but the wider gap that you have to use with electronic ignition. You might also have a fuel filter problem or gas line problem, fuel pump after sitting for years that could happen? From: "Thomas Ringlein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 17:45:26 -0700 Okay - I got the car out of the garage today for its first long jaunt to the nearest gas station, and I learned a few things. First, some background. I joined the Air Force in 1997, and shortly afterwards, the Chevelle was parked at my Dad's place and driven on the rare occasion I had enough leave and money to get back to central California and enough time and patience to get the car out and drive it. However, upon retaking possession of the car about 4 months ago, it had not so much as been started in no less then 7 years. Ouch. Okay, so now I am back in Fresno, California, and planning on a tear down as soon as I find out if I got promoted or not (sometime in late Dec or Jan), but I want the car running so I can take it to local shops for advice on body work, etc.. I replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil and filter, made sure there was air in the ancient tires, charged the battery (new battery), topped off the tranny fluid, and started it up. Car starts just fine - but it will absolutely not idle. I took the carb apart and replaced all the gaskets since I had a leak or two. While I was in there, I replaced the power valve and checked the jets to make sure they were not clogged with anything. The carb was remarkably clean for a carb that was parked wet 8 years ago - it nearly looked like new. I adjusted the floats by turning the float bowl upside down and adjusting until level with the top/bottom of the bowl. I had my landlord take a look at my work because in his past life he was an auto mechanic for about 15 years. He gave the "thumbs up" on the carb work, and I buttoned it up. I took the car out to top off with some 91 octane "high test" gas, and it ran okay - but would not idle or run particularly well at anything under about 1300 RPM. I have to lightly pump the gas pedal to keep it running below 1300 RPM, and it will run okay from about 1300 until 1600 - where the engine finally kicks in. From about 800 to 1200, the car runs "rough" where it feels like the car wants to quit, but I am keeping it going with pumping the gas. The temp raised slowly until about 180* where it leveled off. Oil pressure held at about 60 pounds. The distributor (Mallory COMP 9000) is tight, so presumably it is where it was left 8 years ago when the car ran fine (I don't have a timing light - disappeared). The car did not start on fire (this time). I have been banging my head against the wall for a few weeks, so I ask the help of all you smart folks to help me figure it out. For some reason, I am thinking it may be the fuel pump (90% of presumed carb problems originate at the pump, right?). Some more details: 72 Chevelle, 350/TH350 combo Holley Vac Sec 600 CFM carb (Model 1860, I believe) I have not replaced the fuel filters yet - perhaps tomorrow I have one plug wire (#5 cylinder) that may or may not be bad. The 90* boot burned through many years ago, and I rigged it with spare parts to make it into a straight wire to get around the header (Hooker comp series, full length - circa 1990). It still has a very small spot where there is no rubber on the wire where it attaches to the plug, but it always worked just fine before. I know - I was in high school and spent all my money dating girls and rigged the car to keep it running. Dumb kid. What do you think? Is anyone still reading? TJR Clovis, California
