Re: [Chevelle-list] Two Questions
Thanks, Jim _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Devin Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 1:13 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Two Questions Baseline your carb by removing it and checking your idle transfer slots. They should look like rectangles with the throttle blades closed. Set your idle mixture screws about 1.5 turns out from bottomed. Get it warmed up and check your mixture screws. Adjust til you get your highest idle speed or vacuum rating, either one will work. Turn your idle speed screws front and rear an equal amount to get the idle where you want it. Hope this helps. I've spent too much time on the phone with their tech support. Their website also has a good amount of info. Devin _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Buckingham Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:03 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Two Questions Anyone got good directiosn for adjsut a demon carb?? I see to have lost mine. It is a road demon 650. Anyone have a rad shroud for a small block for sale?? Need the larger one that covers the big radiator. Thanks, Jim Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.0 - Release Date: 8/30/2007 12:00 AM Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.0 - Release Date: 8/30/2007 12:00 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info
I did that very swap this year in my 70 with 525 hp Rat. It is a piece of cake. I already had a center force clutch so all I bought was the TKO600 and the yoke and speedometer adapter. The cross member only has to be moved rearward a little and the holes are already in the frame. You have to shorten the drive shaft 1.5 or so. Im running 410 gears in mine and what a difference in 5th gear There is very little floor tunnel mod to do just a jack and a 4x4 will do I run my Hurst handle and it fits GREAT in the consol. Good luck and if you have more questions e-mail me and Ill try to help Steve ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate
Thanx guysI just wasn't sure about them...I will try using one now that I havn't heard of any bad experiences with them..Just make sure I used good bolts and have them on tight... John 66 Chevelle 327 4 speed
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate
I have use them to pull Big Block Chevy bus motors with allison transmissions out together. No problems so far. But like with every engine lift or hoist be careful. I have seen heavy brand new chains attached to the heads break. Saftey always. - Original Message - From: Dave Corgill To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 10:28 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate At 04:14 PM 9/10/2007, you wrote: Anybody have any experiences with those engine lift plates that bolt to the intake manifold.??..I'm kinda wiery on using one on an aluminum intake ...I have visions of the bolts pulling out of the holes when you really don't want them too!!! John 66 Chevelle 327 4 speed I know most people do but I use the bolts that bolt to the heads. I would be leery about doing that on a vortex intake.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate
Dave , I used one to lift my 454ci in and out of the chevelle a few times with no problems.Jimmy C. - Original Message - From: Dave Corgill To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 11:28 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate At 04:14 PM 9/10/2007, you wrote: Anybody have any experiences with those engine lift plates that bolt to the intake manifold.??..I'm kinda wiery on using one on an aluminum intake ...I have visions of the bolts pulling out of the holes when you really don't want them too!!! John 66 Chevelle 327 4 speed I know most people do but I use the bolts that bolt to the heads. I would be leery about doing that on a vortex intake.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate
John, The only failure I am aware of with the manifold lift adapter is a bud had the part you hook into on the top pull through. It was a poorly designed cheapo. Mike - Original Message - From: John To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 8:13 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate Thanx guysI just wasn't sure about them...I will try using one now that I havn't heard of any bad experiences with them..Just make sure I used good bolts and have them on tight... John 66 Chevelle 327 4 speed -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info
Last question for now. The motor is a externally balanced stroker. With the crank, balancer and flexplate attached and balanced. What if I install a flywheel on the motor, will it be out of balance? thanks mike - Original Message From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:36:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info I did that very swap this year in my 70 with 525 hp Rat. It is a piece of cake. I already had a center force clutch so all I bought was the TKO600 and the yoke and speedometer adapter. The cross member only has to be moved rearward a little and the holes are already in the frame. You have to shorten the drive shaft 1.5 or so. Im running 410 gears in mine and what a difference in 5th gear There is very little floor tunnel mod to do just a jack and a 4x4 will do I run my Hurst handle and it fits GREAT in the consol. Good luck and if you have more questions e-mail me and Ill try to help Steve See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info
Yes. You will need an externally balanced flywheel. -- G r a n i t e C i t y P e r f o r m a n c e custom engineered competition components mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = Last question for now. The motor is a externally balanced stroker. With the crank, balancer and flexplate attached and balanced. What if I install a flywheel on the motor, will it be out of balance? thanks mike - Original Message From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:36:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info I did that very swap this year in my 70 with 525 hp Rat. It is a piece of cake. I already had a center force clutch so all I bought was the TKO600 and the yoke and speedometer adapter. The cross member only has to be moved rearward a little and the holes are already in the frame. You have to shorten the drive shaft 1.5 or so. Im running 410 gears in mine and what a difference in 5th gear There is very little floor tunnel mod to do just a jack and a 4x4 will do I run my Hurst handle and it fits GREAT in the consol. Good luck and if you have more questions e-mail me and Ill try to help Steve See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info
I forgot the link... http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Crankshaft-Balancing.html And since I'm sending another message... I want to change my answer to it depends If part of your crankshaft balance is on the flexplate then yes, you will have to get an externally balanced flywheel. -- G r a n i t e C i t y P e r f o r m a n c e custom engineered competition components tech [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = Yes. You will need an externally balanced flywheel. -- G r a n i t e C i t y P e r f o r m a n c e custom engineered competition components mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = Last question for now. The motor is a externally balanced stroker. With the crank, balancer and flexplate attached and balanced. What if I install a flywheel on the motor, will it be out of balance? thanks mike - Original Message From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:36:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Tremec 5 Speed Info I did that very swap this year in my 70 with 525 hp Rat. It is a piece of cake. I already had a center force clutch so all I bought was the TKO600 and the yoke and speedometer adapter. The cross member only has to be moved rearward a little and the holes are already in the frame. You have to shorten the drive shaft 1.5 or so. Im running 410 gears in mine and what a difference in 5th gear There is very little floor tunnel mod to do just a jack and a 4x4 will do I run my Hurst handle and it fits GREAT in the consol. Good luck and if you have more questions e-mail me and Ill try to help Steve See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html
[Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with this tired old engine. Do you think in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range, it's getting too much fuel? If so, how do I fix it? Thanks for your help guys. Larry Shouse
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
-- Original message -- From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. Half ton, right? My dad had that very same truck from '72 to '85. The shift linkage went bad in the column and he converted it to a Hurst Indy floor shifter. I used to take it out on the back roads, wind it up, pop the clutch, and the back end would bounce around like crazy. ;^) First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Yes, the timing tabs are marked in 2-degree increments. I checked my Haynes book and it too defers to the underhood sticker. 4 BTDC is as good a place as any to start, and if it runs fine then try adding a little more advance until performance degrades. If you use it more as a driver and less as a hauler the original factory specs may be allowing for some engine loading that your truck doesn't see. Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with this tired old engine. Do you think in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range, it's getting too much fuel? If so, how do I fix it? Sounds like a carb issue, especially if it's been years since the Monojet's been gone through. If possible, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and observe what it reads in the RPM range in question. Is the rest of the ignition system up to snuff? Brad
[Chevelle-list] Richmond 5 sp Long Shifter
Do any of you guys have a Long shifter for your Richmond 5 sp. I have a Hurst and have cussed it for years. For some reason it hangs up in first gear if I don't hold it tight against the gate (pulling it toward me) when I shift to to second. I have checked the alignment and it seems OK. I am considering changing to a Long shifter. Larry -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/1001 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 1:37 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Richmond 5 sp Long Shifter
I will look in my storage unit this weekend. I think I still have mine. Eric Hilpp 67Malibu ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Richmond 5 sp Long Shifter
Eric Thanks. Larry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I will look in my storage unit this weekend. I think I still have mine. Eric Hilpp 67Malibu See what's new at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?NCID=AOLCMP0030001170 and Make AOL Your Homepage http://www.aol.com/mksplash.adp?NCID=AOLCMP0030001169. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/1001 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 1:37 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/1001 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 1:37 PM
[Chevelle-list] Fender nuts
I need the two caged nuts that bolt the bottom of the fender to the car on my '68. Mine have broken loose. Does anyone know who might reproduce them? As luck would have it I can't find any of my catalogs right now. Does anyone have a couple good ones they would sell if they are not being re-popped? Thanks, Jon
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts
Are you referring to the ones on the bottom of the pinchweld under the cowl area? If so, those are just 3/8 J clips that you can get anywhere for like $.79 each Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Jon Vore To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 9:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts I need the two caged nuts that bolt the bottom of the fender to the car on my '68. Mine have broken loose. Does anyone know who might reproduce them? As luck would have it I can't find any of my catalogs right now. Does anyone have a couple good ones they would sell if they are not being re-popped? Thanks, Jon -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts
They are the two bolts behind the front wheel that are under the car and point straight up. Will a Home Depot or Lowes have generic clips that will work? - Original Message - From: Tom Rightler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 8:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts Are you referring to the ones on the bottom of the pinchweld under the cowl area? If so, those are just 3/8 J clips that you can get anywhere for like $.79 each Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Jon Vore To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 9:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts I need the two caged nuts that bolt the bottom of the fender to the car on my '68. Mine have broken loose. Does anyone know who might reproduce them? As luck would have it I can't find any of my catalogs right now. Does anyone have a couple good ones they would sell if they are not being re-popped? Thanks, Jon No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
Thanks for your reply Brad. Yes, a half ton. The carb is an Auto Zone rebuilt that I recently installed. I replaced the points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and coil. Of course new doesn't automatically equal good, but all items listed seems to be functional. Can an old and possibly degraded distributor cause this type of symptom? The dwell is running at 31 degrees and steady, which should be close enough. When I rev it up with the timing light on, the mark climbs up and off the gauge so the advance curve at least starts off correctly... The plugs are running gaps of 40. As a youth, I was taught black smoke means to much fuel, which means not enough air or too much fuel at those RPMs Is there an adjustment for the fuel/air mixture off idle on these carbs? Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:31:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP -- Original message -- From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. Half ton, right? My dad had that very same truck from '72 to '85. The shift linkage went bad in the column and he converted it to a Hurst Indy floor shifter. I used to take it out on the back roads, wind it up, pop the clutch, and the back end would bounce around like crazy. ;^) First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Yes, the timing tabs are marked in 2-degree increments. I checked my Haynes book and it too defers to the underhood sticker. 4 BTDC is as good a place as any to start, and if it runs fine then try adding a little more advance until performance degrades. If you use it more as a driver and less as a hauler the original factory specs may be allowing for some engine loading that your truck doesn't see. Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with this tired old engine. Do you think in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range, it's getting too much fuel? If so, how do I fix it? Sounds like a carb issue, especially if it's been years since the Monojet's been gone through. If possible, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and observe what it reads in the RPM range in question. Is the rest of the ignition system up to snuff? Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts
Perfect. Thanks! I will stop by AutoZone tomorrow! - Original Message - From: Tom Rightler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts Home Depot may have them, I know for a fact that you can get them at Pep Boys, Advance, Autozone, NAPA, etc. I've gotten them there before. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Jon Vore To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:03 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts They are the two bolts behind the front wheel that are under the car and point straight up. Will a Home Depot or Lowes have generic clips that will work? - Original Message - From: Tom Rightler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 8:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts Are you referring to the ones on the bottom of the pinchweld under the cowl area? If so, those are just 3/8 J clips that you can get anywhere for like $.79 each Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Jon Vore To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 9:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts I need the two caged nuts that bolt the bottom of the fender to the car on my '68. Mine have broken loose. Does anyone know who might reproduce them? As luck would have it I can't find any of my catalogs right now. Does anyone have a couple good ones they would sell if they are not being re-popped? Thanks, Jon No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts
Home Depot may have them, I know for a fact that you can get them at Pep Boys, Advance, Autozone, NAPA, etc. I've gotten them there before. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Jon Vore To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:03 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts They are the two bolts behind the front wheel that are under the car and point straight up. Will a Home Depot or Lowes have generic clips that will work? - Original Message - From: Tom Rightler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 8:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts Are you referring to the ones on the bottom of the pinchweld under the cowl area? If so, those are just 3/8 J clips that you can get anywhere for like $.79 each Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Jon Vore To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 9:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fender nuts I need the two caged nuts that bolt the bottom of the fender to the car on my '68. Mine have broken loose. Does anyone know who might reproduce them? As luck would have it I can't find any of my catalogs right now. Does anyone have a couple good ones they would sell if they are not being re-popped? Thanks, Jon -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
Larry, It's sounding like maybe the accelerator pump is putting too much of a shot into the carb when you step on it. If it runs fine above that RPM range and you think the main jetting is fine, then see if you can reduce the amount the acc pump puts out. I don't have one of those carbs in front of me, so I can't offer any more useful information on how to change it. Shawn On Sep 11, 2007, at 10:18 PM, Larry Shouse wrote: Thanks for your reply Brad. Yes, a half ton. The carb is an Auto Zone rebuilt that I recently installed. I replaced the points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and coil. Of course new doesn't automatically equal good, but all items listed seems to be functional. Can an old and possibly degraded distributor cause this type of symptom? The dwell is running at 31 degrees and steady, which should be close enough. When I rev it up with the timing light on, the mark climbs up and off the gauge so the advance curve at least starts off correctly... The plugs are running gaps of 40. As a youth, I was taught black smoke means to much fuel, which means not enough air or too much fuel at those RPMs Is there an adjustment for the fuel/air mixture off idle on these carbs? Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:31:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP -- Original message -- From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. Half ton, right? My dad had that very same truck from '72 to '85. The shift linkage went bad in the column and he converted it to a Hurst Indy floor shifter. I used to take it out on the back roads, wind it up, pop the clutch, and the back end would bounce around like crazy. ;^) First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Yes, the timing tabs are marked in 2-degree increments. I checked my Haynes book and it too defers to the underhood sticker. 4 BTDC is as good a place as any to start, and if it runs fine then try adding a little more advance until performance degrades. If you use it more as a driver and less as a hauler the original factory specs may be allowing for some engine loading that your truck doesn't see. Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with this tired old engine. Do you think in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range, it's getting too much fuel? If so, how do I fix it? Sounds like a carb issue, especially if it's been years since the Monojet's been gone through. If possible, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and observe what it reads in the RPM range in question. Is the rest of the ignition system up to snuff? Brad
