Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate
In a message dated 9/11/2007 12:47:36 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: John, The only failure I am aware of with the manifold lift adapter is a bud had the part you hook into on the top pull through. It was a poorly designed cheapo. Mike wow!! did the engine fall off then?? ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
Hello:first off make shure the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner is intact,also check to see if the little flap opens up when the engine is started cold.if not that must be fixed.H ow does the truck start when cold?does it start and stall?.On your cold start check and verify the choke pulloff is working as it should.There is a possibility that when you start to drive the choke pulloff is starting to close up,causing a rich condition(black smoke).The choke pulloff migh t be adjustible(set screw in the rear of the diaphram or on the side),some of them you have to bend the rod.If the flap in the air cleaner is not working,there is a possibility that the thermo vac switch that controls it is tired.If it is you maybe able to find another one or you can find another vac source to make it work.Give these a try and let me know,if i can help in any other way Clyde. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP Thanks for your reply Brad. Yes, a half ton. The carb is an Auto Zone rebuilt that I recently installed. I replaced the points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and coil. Of course new doesn't automatically equal good, but all items listed seems to be functional. Can an old and possibly degraded distributor cause this type of symptom? The dwell is running at 31 degrees and steady, which should be close enough. When I rev it up with the timing light on, the mark climbs up and off the gauge so the advance curve at least starts off correctly... The plugs are running gaps of 40. As a youth, I was taught black smoke means to much fuel, which means not enough air or too much fuel at those RPMs Is there an adjustment for the fuel/air mixture off idle on these carbs? Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:31:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP -- Original message -- From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. Half ton, right? My dad had that very same truck from '72 to '85. The shift linkage went bad in the column and he converted it to a Hurst Indy floor shifter. I used to take it out on the back roads, wind it up, pop the clutch, and the back end would bounce around like crazy. ;^) First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Yes, the timing tabs are marked in 2-degree increments. I checked my Haynes book and it too defers to the underhood sticker. 4 BTDC is as good a place as any to start, and if it runs fine then try adding a little more advance until performance degrades. If you use it more as a driver and less as a hauler the original factory specs may be allowing for some engine loading that your truck doesn't see. Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with this tired old engine. Do you think in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range, it's getting too much fuel? If so, how do I fix it? Sounds like a carb issue, especially if it's been years since the Monojet's been gone through. If possible, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and observe what it reads in the RPM range in question. Is the rest of the ignition system up to snuff? Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate
The engine was on the stand when it failed. No damage, but I learned a lesson from his experience. Mike - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 4:16 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate In a message dated 9/11/2007 12:47:36 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: John, The only failure I am aware of with the manifold lift adapter is a bud had the part you hook into on the top pull through. It was a poorly designed cheapo. Mike wow!! did the engine fall off then?? ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
Clyde, The original air cleaner is long gone. It now has a 9 inch round by 3 inch tall KN filter on it. The air filter has no ppes or lines going to it. I have oe vacuum line going from the carb (the one facing forward) going to the distributor, and that's it. I will look into the choke pulloff, etc. Thaks, Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Clyde [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:16:42 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP Hello:first off make shure the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner is intact,also check to see if the little flap opens up when the engine is started cold.if not that must be fixed.H ow does the truck start when cold?does it start and stall?.On your cold start check and verify the choke pulloff is working as it should.There is a possibility that when you start to drive the choke pulloff is starting to close up,causing a rich condition(black smoke).The choke pulloff migh t be adjustible(set screw in the rear of the diaphram or on the side),some of them you have to bend the rod.If the flap in the air cleaner is not working,there is a possibility that the thermo vac switch that controls it is tired.If it is you maybe able to find another one or you can find another vac source to make it work.Give these a try and let me know,if i can help in any other way Clyde. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP Thanks for your reply Brad. Yes, a half ton. The carb is an Auto Zone rebuilt that I recently installed. I replaced the points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and coil. Of course new doesn't automatically equal good, but all items listed seems to be functional. Can an old and possibly degraded distributor cause this type of symptom? The dwell is running at 31 degrees and steady, which should be close enough. When I rev it up with the timing light on, the mark climbs up and off the gauge so the advance curve at least starts off correctly... The plugs are running gaps of 40. As a youth, I was taught black smoke means to much fuel, which means not enough air or too much fuel at those RPMs Is there an adjustment for the fuel/air mixture off idle on these carbs? Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:31:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP -- Original message -- From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. Half ton, right? My dad had that very same truck from '72 to '85. The shift linkage went bad in the column and he converted it to a Hurst Indy floor shifter. I used to take it out on the back roads, wind it up, pop the clutch, and the back end would bounce around like crazy. ;^) First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Yes, the timing tabs are marked in 2-degree increments. I checked my Haynes book and it too defers to the underhood sticker. 4 BTDC is as good a place as any to start, and if it runs fine then try adding a little more advance until performance degrades. If you use it more as a driver and less as a hauler the original factory specs may be allowing for some engine loading that your truck doesn't see. Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with this tired old engine. Do you think in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range, it's getting too much fuel? If so, how do I fix it? Sounds like a carb issue, especially if it's been years since the Monojet's been gone through. If possible, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and observe what it reads in the RPM range in question. Is the rest of the ignition system up to snuff? Brad
[Chevelle-list] distributor
Iam looking for a distributor for a 1968 Chevelle Big Block 396 with 350 HP. The number on it is 169. Thank You, Sheri Sheri - Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
Re: [Chevelle-list] distributor
Check this guy out, he usually keeps a pretty good inventory of big block parts !! http://www.lightningspeedshop.com/4-high-performance-chevrolet-engine-parts-for-sale.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] : OT - GMC TRUCK HELP
Hello:did the truck doe this before the new carb?.If so there is a possibility the float level is low or the power valve is seized.check these out and let me know. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:25 AM Subject: *SPAM* Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP Clyde, The original air cleaner is long gone. It now has a 9 inch round by 3 inch tall KN filter on it. The air filter has no ppes or lines going to it. I have oe vacuum line going from the carb (the one facing forward) going to the distributor, and that's it. I will look into the choke pulloff, etc. Thaks, Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Clyde [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:16:42 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP Hello:first off make shure the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner is intact,also check to see if the little flap opens up when the engine is started cold.if not that must be fixed.H ow does the truck start when cold?does it start and stall?.On your cold start check and verify the choke pulloff is working as it should.There is a possibility that when you start to drive the choke pulloff is starting to close up,causing a rich condition(black smoke).The choke pulloff migh t be adjustible(set screw in the rear of the diaphram or on the side),some of them you have to bend the rod.If the flap in the air cleaner is not working,there is a possibility that the thermo vac switch that controls it is tired.If it is you maybe able to find another one or you can find another vac source to make it work.Give these a try and let me know,if i can help in any other way Clyde. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP Thanks for your reply Brad. Yes, a half ton. The carb is an Auto Zone rebuilt that I recently installed. I replaced the points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and coil. Of course new doesn't automatically equal good, but all items listed seems to be functional. Can an old and possibly degraded distributor cause this type of symptom? The dwell is running at 31 degrees and steady, which should be close enough. When I rev it up with the timing light on, the mark climbs up and off the gauge so the advance curve at least starts off correctly... The plugs are running gaps of 40. As a youth, I was taught black smoke means to much fuel, which means not enough air or too much fuel at those RPMs Is there an adjustment for the fuel/air mixture off idle on these carbs? Larry Shouse - Original Message From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:31:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - GMC TRUCK HELP -- Original message -- From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm hoping some of you my be able to help with a couple of questions I have concerning my 1970 GMC truck. It has a straight 6 250 CID engine with a 3 speed manual tranny and a 1 barrel MonoJet carb. Half ton, right? My dad had that very same truck from '72 to '85. The shift linkage went bad in the column and he converted it to a Hurst Indy floor shifter. I used to take it out on the back roads, wind it up, pop the clutch, and the back end would bounce around like crazy. ;^) First question is on timing. My service manual says to refer to the sticker under the hood for timimg, but my sticker is long gone. I did find one of my old tune-up guides from the 70's that says on L6 Chevelles, it should be 0 degrees on automatics and 4 degrees BTDC on manual tranny vehicles... Should I go with 4 degrees BTDC? Also, each mark on the timing guide by the flywheel on these things is 2 degrees right? Yes, the timing tabs are marked in 2-degree increments. I checked my Haynes book and it too defers to the underhood sticker. 4 BTDC is as good a place as any to start, and if it runs fine then try adding a little more advance until performance degrades. If you use it more as a driver and less as a hauler the original factory specs may be allowing for some engine loading that your truck doesn't see. Second question is on my carb. While accelerating normally, it starts to spit and sputter at around 2000 rpms, then clears up at around 2500 rpms or so. While it's doing this, I see black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before and after this rpm range, my truck doesnt smoke. Well, it does at red line but that's gray smoke and I thing an entirely different issue with
[Chevelle-list] Camshaft re-use
I'm doing a re-ring this winter on my 327 and I was wondering if I can use re-use the hydraulic cam and lifters that I am removing from the engine..I have kept the lifters in order so I can put them back in exactly where they cam out of...The cam and lifters only have about 150-200 miles on them..Has anyone on the list done this before..??..With success!!! John 66 Malibu 327 4 speed
Re: [Chevelle-list] Camshaft re-use
Yes. Only if you are 100% sure each lifter is going back on the exact same lobe. If you have ANY doubts -- buy new lifters!!! Use plenty of cam assembly lube and an oil additive. Thank you, Don Hoeschen CEO/Mechanical Engineer Granite City Performance Granite City Performance custom engineered competition components On Wed, 2007-09-12 at 16:32 -0600, John wrote: I'm doing a re-ring this winter on my 327 and I was wondering if I can use re-use the hydraulic cam and lifters that I am removing from the engine..I have kept the lifters in order so I can put them back in exactly where they cam out of...The cam and lifters only have about 150-200 miles on them..Has anyone on the list done this before..??..With success!!! John 66 Malibu 327 4 speed
[Chevelle-list] Firebird 9 Bolt Rear End
I have a question that is not about Chevelles but I hope I can get a answer. Can anyone tell me anything about a 9 bolt rear end from a 85 Firebird. I am building a 41 Chevy with a LT-1 and 40L60E trans. I know the 9 bolt was for the V6, but I read in article on the web that it is about the same as a Dana 44. Does any one know about this. I can pick one up with disc brakes and 370 gear for $200, is it worth it and will it hold up. Thanks, Darrell 65 Chevelle SS 327, 4 speed ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
[Chevelle-list] Wheels
Got some new wheels on the El Camino... http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19099d=1189643 247 Herb Lumpp ACES #3509 TC #3941 '66 El Camino '66 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Wheels
Telling me I need to log in :( On 9/12/07, Herb Lumpp [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Got some new wheels on the El Camino... http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19099d=1189643 247 Herb Lumpp ACES #3509 TC #3941 '66 El Camino '66 Chevelle -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Wheels
Herb It telling me to signup. Paul Kaiser ,Az 67 El Camino - Original Message - From: Herb Lumpp [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 7:12 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Wheels Got some new wheels on the El Camino... http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19099d=1189643 247 Herb Lumpp ACES #3509 TC #3941 '66 El Camino '66 Chevelle
