[Chevelle-list] Swappable

[Chuck Speake]

I am attempting to decide which engine I am going to swap for my existing
350ci.  I am considering the GM Crate 383ci 405hp partly because it  comes
short some parts.  Will the following parts from my 350ci work on the 383ci,
MSD distributor, water pump, flex-plate, and harmonic balancer.  I already
know my headers will fit and I have a good working carb. I can use.  I think
the 350 and the 383 are the same block with just a different bore and stroke
(probably not quite that simple)in which case these parts should be
interchangeable. The one I am the most uncertain of is the distributor.  If
the parts are not interchangeable I will then probably have to go with
another 350ci that I can use these parts on.  Would be nice to have the
extra power of the 383ci though.  

Currently I am having a upgraded 700R4 transmission installed with a 2400
rpm lock-out converter along with either 3.55 or 3.73 gears (will make that
decision in the next couple of days) including having posi. installed.  

I think this combination should match up well with the 383ci, or if I have
to, any of the 350ci crate engines. 

Thanks in advance for your help. 

 

I should have waited until Christmas, but it's too late now.  I guess I will
just have to look at it as a early Christmas present to myself that the wife
doesn't know about.  Oh! Oh!  Another bad boy.  Our cars do seem to get us
in trouble once in a while in one way or another don't they?  

 

Chuck Speake

1970 Chevelle Malibu

Glen Ellyn, Illinois

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

 

[Chevelle-list] : Disc Brakes

[Dave Benjamin]

Will the front disc brake assy. off a 1969 Pontiac Grand Prix, fit the A 
body GM cars

say 68-72 Chevelle, ect, ect.

Thank you for any help

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/




.

Re: [Chevelle-list] 64 Chevelle wiper question

[John Biddle]

Check the linkage.  Paint may have jammed them up when they painted the cowl.  
It would spray right in if the did not remove the cown piece to paint it.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel De Smet 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 12:50 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 64 Chevelle wiper question



  I just got my car back from paint and body.  Now my wipers do not work.  I 
have checked out at the wiper motor and I have 12 volts and when I turn the 
wiper switch it provides the ground at the motor. So I have power and ground at 
the motor.  I also checked the wiper motor body to ground and it has a good 
ground to the body.  I cleaned the body ground just to make sure.  I assumed 
since I have 12 volts and a ground that switches with the wiper switch that I 
must have a bad wiper motor.  I purchased a new wiper motor and installed it.  
I checked the wiper linkage when the motor was off and it moved freely.  Now 
that the new wiper motor is installed I still do not have working wipers.
   
  Does any one have any ideas?  I am wondering if I just got a bad motor.  I 
would not think that a two wire system would be that hard to diagnose but it is 
really beginning to annoy me plus I lost my schematic book so I am just tracing 
wires.


--
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[Chevelle-list] Check this site out.

[dgage]

 
 
 
    TURN UP THE VOLUME !!!    New form for this.. it's good but you may need to watch    it twice; once to watch the Burma shave signs change, and once to catch all the pictures up above.After that click on when life was in black and white.And old forty fives.THIS IS REALLY GREAT !!! For those of you too young    to remember  'too bad you missed it !!'Go to:    http://oldfortyfives.com/DYRT.htm

[Chevelle-list] 64 Chevelle wiper question

[Daniel De Smet]

I just got my car back from paint and body.  Now my wipers do not work.  I have 
checked out at the wiper motor and I have 12 volts and when I turn the wiper 
switch it provides the ground at the motor. So I have power and ground at the 
motor.  I also checked the wiper motor body to ground and it has a good ground 
to the body.  I cleaned the body ground just to make sure.  I assumed since I 
have 12 volts and a ground that switches with the wiper switch that I must have 
a bad wiper motor.  I purchased a new wiper motor and installed it.  I checked 
the wiper linkage when the motor was off and it moved freely.  Now that the new 
wiper motor is installed I still do not have working wipers.
 
Does any one have any ideas?  I am wondering if I just got a bad motor.  I 
would not think that a two wire system would be that hard to diagnose but it is 
really beginning to annoy me plus I lost my schematic book so I am just tracing 
wires.
_
Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE!
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_112007

Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

[Michael Pell]

And DO NOT let the MC run dry Otherwise you start over at step 1.  
and that is VERY annoying.


"Yup, just one more try, honey, and we can go for a drive!  Let me 
refill the reservoir..."   DOH!!!



--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there 
isn't, Than live my
 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal

 Don't tell God how big your storm is, Tell the storm how big your God is
 
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com

 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



mike f wrote:


exactly! my bad on the poor wording.

- Original Message 
From: Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2007 8:39:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

Only one thing I would recommend different. Don't pump the pedal. 
Crack the bleeder, have the helper push the pedal to the floor and 
hold it, close the bleeder. Repeat until you see no more air bubbles. 
>From the Baer brake tech sheet, " it's not a contest to see how far 
you can shoot fluid across the shop floor." Plus if the master 
cylinder was dry, don't forget to bench bleed it first.

Mike

- Original Message -
*From:* mike f 
*To:* The Chevelle Mailing List 
*Sent:* Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:39 AM
*Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

Steve, I don't think the process is any different from bleeding
disc/disc systems. To start, I am assumming that the master
cylinder is all good and filled. Then start with someone in the
car and you and a can of brake fluid at the right rear drum. Have
the person punp it up and hold it. Then you crack the bleed screw
then close it. repeat over and over again going from the furthest
point to the the nearest. Never let the fluid go empty in the
master cylinder.
 
In a coffee can with brake fluid, I also use a tube that is out on

the bleed screw to help avoid sucking air back in .
 
I have never had a booster go bad.
 
hope this helps

mike

- Original Message 
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2007 10:12:58 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

Hi guys was wondering about the correct way to bleed the disc/drum
power brake system on a 70 chevelle? I think i read some where
that you need to hold open the prop valve while bleeding (?) does
the booster require vacumn during bleeding? is there a way to tell
if the booster is bad? if the master is bad? Thanks  steve



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Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

[mike f]

exactly! my bad on the poor wording. 


- Original Message 
From: Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2007 8:39:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding


Only one thing I would recommend different. Don't pump the pedal. Crack the 
bleeder, have the helper push the pedal to the floor and hold it, close the 
bleeder. Repeat until you see no more air bubbles. >From the Baer brake tech 
sheet, " it's not a contest to see how far you can shoot fluid across the shop 
floor." Plus if the master cylinder was dry, don't forget to bench bleed it 
first. 
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: mike f 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding


Steve, I don't think the process is any different from bleeding disc/disc 
systems. To start, I am assumming that the master cylinder is all good and 
filled. Then start with someone in the car and you and a can of brake fluid at 
the right rear drum. Have the person punp it up and hold it. Then you crack the 
bleed screw then close it. repeat over and over again going from the furthest 
point to the the nearest. Never let the fluid go empty in the master cylinder. 
 
In a coffee can with brake fluid, I also use a tube that is out on the bleed 
screw to help avoid sucking air back in . 
 
I have never had a booster go bad. 
 
hope this helps
mike


- Original Message 
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2007 10:12:58 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

Hi guys was wondering about the correct way to bleed the disc/drum power brake 
system on a 70 chevelle? I think i read some where that you need to hold open 
the prop valve while bleeding (?) does the booster require vacumn during 
bleeding? is there a way to tell if the booster is bad? if the master is bad? 
Thanks  steve





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wasters of 2007.





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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1164 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 
11:30 AM


  

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Re: [Chevelle-list] What to do about bugs. (insects smashed on the car)

[Jack Thorpe]

The same here in south georgia. If you try the Pam thing---be sure to remove it 
often as the sun will bake it on and you have another problem. It works better 
on chrome than paint.
Jack66

- Original Message 
From: Rich Pruett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2007 10:09:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] What to do about bugs. (insects smashed on the car)



Years ago, I lived in Florida and every year, in the fall, we had a problem 
with "Love bugs". The story is that these guys, about the size of lightning 
bugs, were mating and were attracted to the exhaust fumes so they were flying 
around, stuck together, near the roads. There were hundreds of thousands to be 
seen and hit. 

 

People did two things to protect there cars. You could buy a net fitted like an 
oversized ping-pong net for the front of your car to protect your paint and 
radiator from the acid "bug juice". Also some people used sprayed Pam on the 
front areas that would be hit to protect their paint.   

 

Hope this is helpful

 

-- Original message -- 
From: mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Hello everyone. I am getting creamed with bugs especially in the evenings and 
> nights? 
> what do you do to deal with this issue? 
> 
> thanks 
> mike 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
>  
> Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you 
> with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. 
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/sports;_ylt=At9_qDKvtAbMuh1G1SQtBI7ntAcJ 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] What to do about bugs. (insects smashed on the car)

[Rich Pruett]

Years ago, I lived in Florida and every year, in the fall, we had a problem 
with "Love bugs". The story is that these guys, about the size of lightning 
bugs, were mating and were attracted to the exhaust fumes so they were flying 
around, stuck together, near the roads. There were hundreds of thousands to be 
seen and hit. 

People did two things to protect there cars. You could buy a net fitted like an 
oversized ping-pong net for the front of your car to protect your paint and 
radiator from the acid "bug juice". Also some people used sprayed Pam on the 
front areas that would be hit to protect their paint.   

Hope this is helpful

-- Original message -- 
From: mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Hello everyone. I am getting creamed with bugs especially in the evenings and 
> nights? 
> what do you do to deal with this issue? 
> 
> thanks 
> mike 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
>  
> Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you 
> with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. 
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/sports;_ylt=At9_qDKvtAbMuh1G1SQtBI7ntAcJ 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

[Mike Holleman]

Only one thing I would recommend different. Don't pump the pedal. Crack the 
bleeder, have the helper push the pedal to the floor and hold it, close the 
bleeder. Repeat until you see no more air bubbles. From the Baer brake tech 
sheet, " it's not a contest to see how far you can shoot fluid across the shop 
floor." Plus if the master cylinder was dry, don't forget to bench bleed it 
first. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: mike f 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding


  Steve, I don't think the process is any different from bleeding disc/disc 
systems. To start, I am assumming that the master cylinder is all good and 
filled. Then start with someone in the car and you and a can of brake fluid at 
the right rear drum. Have the person punp it up and hold it. Then you crack the 
bleed screw then close it. repeat over and over again going from the furthest 
point to the the nearest. Never let the fluid go empty in the master cylinder. 

  In a coffee can with brake fluid, I also use a tube that is out on the bleed 
screw to help avoid sucking air back in . 

  I have never had a booster go bad. 

  hope this helps
  mike


  - Original Message 
  From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2007 10:12:58 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

  Hi guys was wondering about the correct way to bleed the disc/drum power 
brake system on a 70 chevelle? I think i read some where that you need to hold 
open the prop valve while bleeding (?) does the booster require vacumn during 
bleeding? is there a way to tell if the booster is bad? if the master is bad? 
Thanks  steve




--
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wasters of 2007.




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--


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1164 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 
11:30 AM

Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Chevy Commercial

[mike f]

The commercial felt weird. Western setting, not only old but then to have the 
cars in there. I really enjoyed it. thanks


- Original Message 
From: Rick Schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:59:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Chevy Commercial

  I was so in love with Elizabeth Montgomery!Enjoyed the boys of Bonanza 
too, but Liz & the Malibu Convertible she drove will always be welcome at my 
house. 


On 11/30/07, Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Trust me, this one is very enjoyable!
See the link in the page, and watch the video!

http://members.tripod.com/~bewitchvic/bonanza.html

--
--
I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there 
isn't, Than live my
life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal 

WHOSE CRUEL IDEA WAS IT FOR THE WORD "LISP" TO HAVE "S" IN IT? - unknown

Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com ) #6






-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino


  

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Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

[mike f]

Steve, I don't think the process is any different from bleeding disc/disc 
systems. To start, I am assumming that the master cylinder is all good and 
filled. Then start with someone in the car and you and a can of brake fluid at 
the right rear drum. Have the person punp it up and hold it. Then you crack the 
bleed screw then close it. repeat over and over again going from the furthest 
point to the the nearest. Never let the fluid go empty in the master cylinder. 

In a coffee can with brake fluid, I also use a tube that is out on the bleed 
screw to help avoid sucking air back in . 

I have never had a booster go bad. 

hope this helps
mike


- Original Message 
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2007 10:12:58 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

Hi guys was wondering about the correct way to bleed the disc/drum power brake 
system on a 70 chevelle? I think i read some where that you need to hold open 
the prop valve while bleeding (?) does the booster require vacumn during 
bleeding? is there a way to tell if the booster is bad? if the master is bad? 
Thanks  steve





Check out AOL Money & Finance's list of the hottest products and top money 
wasters of 2007.


  

Be a better sports nut!  Let your teams follow you 
with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/sports;_ylt=At9_qDKvtAbMuh1G1SQtBI7ntAcJ