RE: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List That is how we did the Blazer. We jacked it up and used heavy-duty saw-horses on each side with steel pipes and 4X4 posts to set it on. The hardest, and scariest, part was having it that far up in the air, since the bottom of the car has to be higher than the tire. One thing I recommend is to try and jack up both ends pretty much equal. If you get one end clear up in the air, and then try to bring the other end up from ground level, you might have it shifting on you. Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List In a message dated 10/31/01 12:37:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a friend who says to use jacks to get the body up and then roll the frame out from under it, I don't know how I'll end up doing mine, but I know I'll need more room than what I have got. Josh Josh, I did it with my 70 and the 69. Its fairley easy. Let me know when your ready and I'll give the lowdown. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Last summer, we replaced the body on an '84 S-10 Blazer. Although it's not a Chevelle, there are some things that we forgot to undo in our excitement: The ground wire for the fuel sending unit The ground wire for the license plate light Small wires like this can cause havoc because you have the body clear up in the air while you have to stick your head in there and quickly undo them. So my advice is make sure that everything is unattached from the body (parking brake cable, floor shifter, etc) before lifting it. Good luck! -Original Message- From: Mel Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 9:19 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame Hi Guys , been lurking around the list for awhile now with the odd trim question but now it is time to get serious :) I am looking at separating the frame and body on my 67 SS to do some clean up and work that needed to be done on the frame along time ago and was wondering if any of you have any advice or hints or heads up on problems to look for before this procedure takes place ...I am not a body guy (on cars anyhow) and have not done anything like this before. Mel 67 Malibu SS - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] oil dipstick removal
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List If it has never been out, you may have a hard time just pulling it. I had to twist mine like it was threaded, even though it wasn't. And, of course, since it is bent, you run into clearance problems halfway around. Just make sure not to kink it when twisting. Good luck! Jim Erickson -Original Message- From: Daniel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 1:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] oil dipstick removal Quick question: How do I remove the oil dipstick so I can replace the driver's side header? Does it pull out? Twist out? Or what? Thanks, Daniel 72 Malibu 350/350 53 GMC 97 Intrepid - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Speedo gear
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List First of all, thank you to everyone that has helped me with all of my questions recently. I finally get the '66 out of storage, and now I bombard the list with questions! Here's the next one: I changed the gears from 3.08s to 4.88s a few years ago, and never changed the speedo gear. The transmission places around here say that there is a formula, but they don't know it. They want to sell me a few gears and just do trail and error. Maybe that would be fine, because it really doesn't have to be dead-on, but does someone know the formula? I have a Turbo400, and am running 245/60R14s. Thanks! - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Rust in gas tank
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Yesterday, while working on the 66 Malibu, I replaced the old metal canister-type fuel filter with a clear one yesterday, and discovered that I must have rust in my tank, since the filter was clogged immediately with rust. Happy 4th of July to me. The car is stored each winter, but I had used stabilizer and had a full tank of gas. Apparently there was some condensation though. So, what is your opinion: should I have it boiled out, or get a new one? My fear is that, even though I have it lined, it will not take care of all of the rust. Jim Erickson [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Washer fluid bottle
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Currently, I have an after-market washer fluid reservoir on my '66 Malibu. I have tried looking around, but cannot find out what the original one was supposed to look like. I have a triangular glass one somewhere in the rafters of the garage, but am not sure if it went in the '66. And if so, where is it supposed to be mounted? Jim Erickson - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Headers
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I have '66 Malibu with a 327 that currently has headers on it. If I remember right, they are Hedman(?) brand, but I can't remember. My biggest complaint is how close they sit to the starter and oil filter. I've got the starter covered with asbestos on that side, but it is a pain to simply change the oil. Does anyone have recommendations on headers with better clearance? I have tried to bend the pipe, and have been slightly successful, but they are due for replacing anyway. Jim Erickson - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Please help!!
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Although the radiator has been rebuilt, are you sure it is pulling enough air through? I had the exact same thing on our late-model Jeep and it came down to the rebuilt radiator was not completely clean. So no matter how good the other parts were (I had replaced thermostat, sensor, waterpump - which was bad anyway), it could not pull enough air to cool it down. And while it drove okay in town after the other parts were installed, only a few minutes on the highway put it into the red. Jim Erickson -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 9:01 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Please help!! Hello Has any one ever experience this problem and was able to solve it? I have a 70 Chevelle I'm running a small block 350 4/bolt with a performer manifold and edelbrock carburetor, exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust. When I do local driving or keep it under 50 miles per hour my water tempurature runs between 185 and 200 degrees when I get on the highway and get up over 50 my temperature starts to rise as high as 230 once 235 so I had to shut down. I'm running a new stock water pump all new hoses the radiator is stock but Its been competely rebuilt a 180 thermostat and a stock clutch 7 blade fan the car also has A/C it works but I never use it in fear of it running much hotter. Should I change the water pump and go with a flex fan I'm really lost at this point and not sure what to do. ANY information on how to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Andrew - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
