Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
It came out of a full size Chevrolet, in those old parts books if it just says Chevrolet it is the full-size car otherwise it specifies Chevelle or nova ect chum _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dale Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 1:31 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 No such animal as a Camaro in 1965. Dale From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 12:45 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 HA 1965 327 4 spd tran. std 275 4 full size/Camaro What about this? _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dale Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 1:39 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Full size1965 Chevrolet as shown in the thread below under Platform (B is full size Chevrolet). Dale From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 12:08 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 The date code is E 15 5. So that makes it a 65 327. There is no 327 listed for Chevelles in 65 with an HA code. Wonder what it came out of? _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dale Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 9:20 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Yes but you'll notice the only HA Chevelle (A) code is 1969. It could very well be an engine block from a full size Chevrolet (B) though. In any event, it's probably a good engine and no reason not to use it unless you enter in some shows as an original or original restored car and they even check engine codes - which many do not, not even AACA. Dale From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Brad Waller Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 6:34 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 >From ChevelleStuff.net, I found more than one HA code, but no IHA codes. Code Year CID HP Trans Platform/Comments HA 1965 327 250 MT B HA 1967-68327 275 MT B HAH 1966 327 275 MT B, Holley HAR 1966 327 275 MT B, Rochester HB 1965 327 300 MT B, HP HB 1966-7 327 275 MT B, A.I.R. HB 1968 327 275 MT B, HDC HA 1969 350 300 MT A, F, X It could be any of the three. You will want to find the casting number to see which block it is, and then see if you can find the casting date. For tips, see http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php That site has the best casting codes, suffix info, and other engine stuff out there for our cars. Been using it for over ten years. Nasty Z28 has two HA codes: HA 1965 327 4 spd tran. std 275 4 full size/Camaro HA 1969 350 manual trans 300 4 A F X Check the date for the most accurate estimate of what it was. Brad Waller From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 11:44 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Engine numbers T052IHA, 3858180 Intake 3875954 Heads 3795896 Crank 2680 Guys the only number i cant figure out is the T052IHA, i think from the story i got its a replacement motor. I brought it home saturday. Thanks guys for your help. Description: Description: cid:image001.gif@01CC2486.B685A050 _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 10:38 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Alex That motor came with a carter 4027s, there is one on ebay right now from a 66. I can't find any info on the CFM. The Holley that came on the L79 350HP was 585 so I'm sure it wouldn't be any more than that. I found a discussion thread where a guy flow tested them and said they were 582 but take that for what it is worth. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Thursday, June 02, 201
[Chevelle-list] FW: 66 327
I tried sending this twice -I will try without the attachment-you will just have to take my word for it _ From: Chum Nault [mailto:c...@jimolsonmotors.com] Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 3:49 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Alex I attached pages from an old GM parts manual that show the suffix HA is a 1965 manual transmission 327 (page32). On page 19 it tells us to use the 66-67 protecto plate identification on page 23 where it shows the T for Tonawanda , the 05 for May and the 21 for 21 day so you have a nice 327 for a manual trans built on the 21st of May 1965. Good Job!! Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 1:44 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Engine numbers T052IHA, 3858180 Intake 3875954 Heads 3795896 Crank 2680 Guys the only number i cant figure out is the T052IHA, i think from the story i got its a replacement motor. I brought it home saturday. Thanks guys for your help. _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 10:38 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Alex That motor came with a carter 4027s, there is one on ebay right now from a 66. I can't find any info on the CFM. The Holley that came on the L79 350HP was 585 so I'm sure it wouldn't be any more than that. I found a discussion thread where a guy flow tested them and said they were 582 but take that for what it is worth. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 6:15 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Hi guys, Recently bought a 66 327 rpo L30 motor and power glide. Does anyone know what the cfm of the carb was? Thanks Alex <>
Re: [Chevelle-list] AC
Jim If it is just the front bearing or clutch, replace them rather than the entire compressor, they can be replaced without the recovery, evacuation, and refill of the refrigerant. You may also just be low on refrigerant or a bad switch causing the compressor to not stay engaged and that rattling can make you think the compressor is bad. If you do need a compressor I would stick with the delco, but I biased, I have worked at a GM dealer over 40 years. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Jim Thompson Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 6:24 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] AC The factory AC on my 97 Camaro clutch is not engaging and rattles. Should I go AC Delco or Spectra? Whole compressor or just the replace clutch? Enjoy the day. Jim Thompson http://www.jimhthompson.com <>
Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
Alex That motor came with a carter 4027s, there is one on ebay right now from a 66. I can't find any info on the CFM. The Holley that came on the L79 350HP was 585 so I'm sure it wouldn't be any more than that. I found a discussion thread where a guy flow tested them and said they were 582 but take that for what it is worth. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 6:15 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 327 Hi guys, Recently bought a 66 327 rpo L30 motor and power glide. Does anyone know what the cfm of the carb was? Thanks Alex
Re: [Chevelle-list] SB lifter question
John The last year for the 283 was 1967, all small block flat lifters are interchangeable, if you are just looking for a stock hydraulic lifter any 283, 327 lifter will be the same. The 58 specs you looked up must be for a solid lifter, not hydraulic, as the old 1/4 turn past 0 lash was always the method for adjusting them. Be sure to take a good look at the cam surface on the lifters as you remove them, be sure that there is not a wear mark from the camshaft on the lifter indicating that the lifter is not rotating. This would tell you it is time to replace the camshaft also. We are finding out that our oils today have eliminated a zink additive that is needed to lubricate our older flat lifter camshafts and we are seeing failures. Every cam manufacture recommends an additive or a high performance oil with zink. Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 2:26 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] SB lifter question Hi everybody, Unfortunately I have what seems to be a collapsed lifter in my 69 El Camino. If I try to adjust it, I can turn it until it stops tapping, and then when I try to go the additional quarter turn, it starts tapping again. My question is, does the year of the block matter, or are all SBC lifters basically the same? It is a 1958 283 engine block. Most auto parts store computers only go back to 1968. What was the last year for the 283? I need to buy my parts and I want to make sure there aren't any problems/surprises. I looked up the 1958 283 engine specs here. It says: Valve Lift Zero Lash: Intake: .398 Exhaust: .398 http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/628.cfm Also my parts list is: intake gasket set sillycone valve cover gasket set oil & filter lifter set (may as well change them all) Am I missing anything? Thanks, John Nasta Thanks
Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle
Wisconsin might be one of those states, I haven't gotten a reply from trimtags.com yet! Chum _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Tony Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 4:05 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle In some states it is also illegal to own and sell the VIN tag rivets. - Original Message - From: Chum <mailto:c...@jimolsonmotors.com> Nault To: 'The <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 2:19 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle Larry Depending on your state there are laws about removing the VIN tags, I removed mine during the restoration and I am currently looking for the correct rivets. I contacted trimtags.com but haven't gotten a reply yet. They make replacement cowl tags but not Vin tags. You need that tag if you ever want to sell the vehicle so if you think your painter removed it ask him for it, I don't know how you will get a replacement and it may be illegal for him to even possess it depending on your state laws. The numbers on the frame on a 65 are on the top of the left frame rail between the last 2 rear body mounts. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 10:40 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle I am missing the plate on the driver side door post on my 65 SS. I suspect the painter saw the value of the tag and removed it. I should mention that I don't remember seeing the tag prior to painting. I have never been able to find any numbers on the frame. Should I post the vin? Larry Everyday Is A Saturday --- On Thu, 5/5/11, Barnes, Alex wrote: From: Barnes, Alex Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 9:48 PM Hi guys, I need a little help. Im looking at a 69 ss chevelle tomorrow. He says its all original and he says its an ss. I will be looking at it closely tomorrow. He doesnt have a build sheet or a protecta plate. This car is a project car. Everything looks to be there. I looked at it quickly today on my way to work. Then called him on the phone. I pretty much know what to look for but is there any one thing that can help me decide. It is a big block with a muncie 4 speed, it has a 12 bolt, but i didnt check the brakes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alex _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1325 / Virus Database: 1500/3619 - Release Date: 05/06/11
Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle
Larry Depending on your state there are laws about removing the VIN tags, I removed mine during the restoration and I am currently looking for the correct rivets. I contacted trimtags.com but haven't gotten a reply yet. They make replacement cowl tags but not Vin tags. You need that tag if you ever want to sell the vehicle so if you think your painter removed it ask him for it, I don't know how you will get a replacement and it may be illegal for him to even possess it depending on your state laws. The numbers on the frame on a 65 are on the top of the left frame rail between the last 2 rear body mounts. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 10:40 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle I am missing the plate on the driver side door post on my 65 SS. I suspect the painter saw the value of the tag and removed it. I should mention that I don't remember seeing the tag prior to painting. I have never been able to find any numbers on the frame. Should I post the vin? Larry Everyday Is A Saturday --- On Thu, 5/5/11, Barnes, Alex wrote: From: Barnes, Alex Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 9:48 PM Hi guys, I need a little help. Im looking at a 69 ss chevelle tomorrow. He says its all original and he says its an ss. I will be looking at it closely tomorrow. He doesnt have a build sheet or a protecta plate. This car is a project car. Everything looks to be there. I looked at it quickly today on my way to work. Then called him on the phone. I pretty much know what to look for but is there any one thing that can help me decide. It is a big block with a muncie 4 speed, it has a 12 bolt, but i didnt check the brakes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alex
Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle
Here is a link that may help http://www.chevelles.com/shop/ss_ident.html I hope this helps Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2011 4:48 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle Hi guys, I need a little help. Im looking at a 69 ss chevelle tomorrow. He says its all original and he says its an ss. I will be looking at it closely tomorrow. He doesnt have a build sheet or a protecta plate. This car is a project car. Everything looks to be there. I looked at it quickly today on my way to work. Then called him on the phone. I pretty much know what to look for but is there any one thing that can help me decide. It is a big block with a muncie 4 speed, it has a 12 bolt, but i didnt check the brakes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alex
Re: [Chevelle-list] (no subject)
Rick Have you ever tried the do it yourself anodizing kits? It is it possible to do a grill? I don't mind spending the time polishing them, I just want them to look good when finished. My chrome moldings are pitted so all the polish in the world won't save them so I will need to have them re-plated or replaced. Any suggestions on where to send re-plating, the places I have used in the past have gotten way out of line on price, they want over $300 to re-plate the molding down the center of the hood and the bumper exchange that we use is at about $400 a bumper. The new replacement bumpers are only $169. Chum _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 2:55 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] (no subject) The cloudy finish on the aluminum is the anodizing coating. The anodizing needs to be removed before the parts can be polished. If you want to polish them yourself, you can order anodizing remover from many sources (caswellplating.com for one). Or if you have them polished by a pro, he/she will know what to do. Then once they are polished, they should be re-anodized to maintain the finish. Doing it yourself is not rocket science but it is plenty of work. As for replacement pieces, its generally recommended to keep your originals and have them redone. Fit on replacement parts is hit or miss at best. On Mon, May 2, 2011 at 12:09 PM, wrote: Chum Try polishing them with 000 Steel Wool and then with some metal brite. 000 Steel Wool works great on stainless, chrome and glass. Jerry Wells -Original Message----- From: Chum Nault To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Mon, May 2, 2011 12:05 pm Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] (no subject) After 4 years of restoration I have my 65 painted and ready to start the reassembly. I hope someone can give me some advice on a couple of items. I have all the original aluminum moldings for the trunk and hood and the grill but they are all cloudy, can these be polished or re anodized or am I better off with new moldings. I don't want to order new ones and have a fit and finish problem. The same with the chrome moldings on the hood and trunk should I have them re-plated or are there quality replacements? How about bumpers, anyone have experience with the replacements, how do they fit and how is the finish? Chum Nault _ -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] (no subject)
After 4 years of restoration I have my 65 painted and ready to start the reassembly. I hope someone can give me some advice on a couple of items. I have all the original aluminum moldings for the trunk and hood and the grill but they are all cloudy, can these be polished or re anodized or am I better off with new moldings. I don't want to order new ones and have a fit and finish problem. The same with the chrome moldings on the hood and trunk should I have them re-plated or are there quality replacements? How about bumpers, anyone have experience with the replacements, how do they fit and how is the finish? Chum Nault _
Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there?
You guys are depressing me! I know where you're coming from, according to the newspaper yesterday our local unemployment rate is 13.8%. that makes it real tough to be in the car business but we keep plugging along. Everything that I read says that we are getting over this thing but for the everyday working Joe jobs are still hard to come by and until we get people back to work it won't be over. Spending time in the garage restoring my 65 has been a great escape but I just got the bill for my paint, the "escape" is getting expensive! Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rich Pruett Sent: Friday, April 01, 2011 5:08 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there? I'm in a slump also. Just keeping my nose above the water line. The Chevelle has been on hold for almost 2 years, my '67 GMC has been parked as long, the Harley needs brakes and the IHC is up for sale. If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Red Green - Original Message - From: "mike f" To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Friday, April 1, 2011 5:31:47 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there? I get a sense many, like me, many are working hard to keep our homes, aging daily drivers and our classics. My car is largely done but insurance money is tight money right now. Am I making any sense? I want to get the car insured with Alex as soon as I can afford. And then there is another thing. I am mad and disappointed by the economy and governments, at the Federal level, intervention in our society. I don't say much because I don't have a lot of good things to say. Please forgive the short rant. With all of that, I will go to the swap meets, races and shows as I can afford. How about you? Do you feel this way? We will keep the faith as I'm sure you will. Mike F. _ From: Alex LaRue To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Fri, April 1, 2011 10:17:52 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there? I am here Bill, however, I get the sense that many have moved on. Alex LaRue LaRue Insurance, Inc. (800)303-3518 Fax (866)591-7318 P O Box 119 54 Lincoln Square Hodgenville, KY 42748 ACES 4711 www.LaRueInsurance.net <http://www.larueinsurance.net/> www.LaRueClassics.com <http://www.larueclassics.com/> -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 7:15 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there? I just realized that I haven't seen any activity in months. Has it been that slow or is my server filtering the list again? BillL
Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there?
I'm still here too, recovering from some surgery, can't wait to get back out in the garage. My 65 is about 20 hours away from the paint booth! Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 6:15 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there? I just realized that I haven't seen any activity in months. Has it been that slow or is my server filtering the list again? BillL
Re: [Chevelle-list] 70 manual steering box rebuild
I rebuilt mine, it is a very basic gear so it's not hard to do at all, the 65 shop manual covers it very well. I got my parts from classic Muscle at oldmusclecars.com. I found that rebuilds were scarce and pricy, I even needed one of the gears which I found a NOS online by googling the original part number. As for changing the ratio, my opinion would be if you want a quicker ratio go to a variable power unit or its going to be a beast to parallel park! Chum Nault Here is some contact info on CLASSIC MUSCLE Division of Modern Chevrolet 5415 Kelley-Moore Drive Winston Salem, NC 27105 (800) 722-4828 Fax (336) 727-4856 _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of ss454hill...@aol.com Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 8:30 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] 70 manual steering box rebuild I was wondering if anyone has rebuilt their manual steering box. Is it a DIY kind of thing? Where do you get the kit to do it? Can it be changed to a quicker ratio? What about prices? Thanks for any info Steve
Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder
Jim Thanks for the info, that matches where I thought they were located, I took pictures before I cut anything out so I had a good refrence Chum _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Jim Thompson Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 6:19 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder I looked at some of the pics I took on tear down. There are two tabs one is just below the steering column where the fire wall bends back, The second is on the side of the trans tunnel across from the floor drain plug. I have a munci and it is on the passenger side of the tunnel. The cable comes across and over the trans. From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 12:59 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder Haven't had any activity for a while so I thought I would start it off with some technical questions I am replacing the master cylinder on my 65 L79 malibu with Manual Brakes. (The original cylinder is to pitted to rebuild). It came with a 1 inch cylinder but as I am looking for a new one I see that the HD brakes used a 7/8" cylinder. As far as I can tell the rest of the components are the same. Am I better off using the original 1" or will I gain anything with the 7/8". I am restoring this vehicle back to original, it is far from numbers matching but I want everything to look as original as possible. There are quite a few different manufactures but the original delco is not available any suggestions on what to buy, Dorman, A1 Cardone, Centric, Reybestos, Bendix, or Wagner. I also just realized that when I replaced the floor I didn't replace the return spring retainer that is welded in. can anyone give me a measurement for the correct location, just the distance from the "Heel" or "toe" bends at the lower cowl area, this would have been a lot easier while it was on the rotisserie rather than back on the frame. I also omitted the speedo cable retainers if someone can give me an idea where they were originally locsated. Thanks Chum Nault
[Chevelle-list] master cylinder
Haven't had any activity for a while so I thought I would start it off with some technical questions I am replacing the master cylinder on my 65 L79 malibu with Manual Brakes. (The original cylinder is to pitted to rebuild). It came with a 1 inch cylinder but as I am looking for a new one I see that the HD brakes used a 7/8" cylinder. As far as I can tell the rest of the components are the same. Am I better off using the original 1" or will I gain anything with the 7/8". I am restoring this vehicle back to original, it is far from numbers matching but I want everything to look as original as possible. There are quite a few different manufactures but the original delco is not available any suggestions on what to buy, Dorman, A1 Cardone, Centric, Reybestos, Bendix, or Wagner. I also just realized that when I replaced the floor I didn't replace the return spring retainer that is welded in. can anyone give me a measurement for the correct location, just the distance from the "Heel" or "toe" bends at the lower cowl area, this would have been a lot easier while it was on the rotisserie rather than back on the frame. I also omitted the speedo cable retainers if someone can give me an idea where they were originally locsated. Thanks Chum Nault
Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant
They are assembled not built, check the content on their window labels. It isn't just the big plants its all the parts suppliers big and small, union and non union that go into building our economy. The American manufactures use American suppliers, American engineers, American designers, this is what our economy needs not foreign assembly plants. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Terry S Hodges Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 7:20 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant Toyota's are built in Georgetown Ky Nissan's are built in Smyrna Tn On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Dan Rachlin wrote: Strange how "Buy American" now means Toyota's that are built in Tennessee.?? On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 5:09 PM, Rich Pruett wrote: This is fascinating. If you watch, listen to the very last couple of sentences. This is a short video of a new Ford plant in Brazil . One look at this and you will be able to understand why there will probably never be another assembly plant built in the USA. It will also point out why more assembly plants will go offshore. You won't doubt that Ford, GM, and Chrysler are destined to go under, after watching this video. They will survive, but their assembly operations in the U.S. likely won't, whether we have provided a bailout or not (listen closely at the end for the reason why ). <http://apps.detnews.com/apps/multimedia/player/index.php?id=1189> http://apps.detnews.com/apps/multimedia/player/index.php?id=1189 And we wonder where the jobs go. This should help with the explanation! The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. --- Thomas Jefferson "You cannot legislate the poor into freedom by legislating the wealthy out of freedom. What one person receives without working for, another person must work for without receiving. The government cannot give to anybody anything that the government does not first take from somebody else. When half of the people get the idea that they do not have to work because the other half is going to take care of them, and when the other half gets the idea that it does no good to work because somebody else is going to get what they work for, that my dear friend, is about the end of any nation. You cannot multiply wealth by dividing it." ~ The late Dr. Adrian Rogers, 1931 - 2005 ~
Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant
I have worked in a GM dealership for over 40 years and been the general Manager for the last 20 so I have watched this situation with great personal interest. The problems with the American Manufactures shouldn't all be blamed on the unions, management gave them those contracts knowing that they were just postponing disaster. In 2007/2008 disaster struck in the form of an economic crisis that cut vehicle sales and the snowball effect started. Although the new contracts have some negative effects on the existing UAW worker, it is a whole new ball game with the new hires and the big 3 can be completive with anyone going forward. If you look at some of the new vehicles we are producing, the Equinox and the Cruze, these are great vehicles at completive prices. GM dealers have never had a compact car that could go head to head with anyone like the Cruze. I believe the American automotive industry is on the upswing and that they can compete with anyone. At the dealership level we sold more Cruzes last month than Cobalts in the last 2 years. I hope I am right because without a strong manufacturing base our economy will never totally rebound. We need to keep pounding that message to our politicians and business leaders to do everything they can do to create manufacturing in this country and reverse the last 30 years of so called "free trade". Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Tony Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2010 8:30 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant Couldn't have said it better myself. Your spot on Bill. - Original Message - From: Bill <mailto:inthewin...@bellsouth.net> Vander Werf To: 'The <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2010 7:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant The jobs went away because of the UAW. Unions were a good thing at their inception, but they have completely outlived their usefulness. As a business owner, I understand that you need to constantly cut costs to be competitive. In manufacturing, labor is a huge part of the cost of production. Labor costs have to be passed on to the consumer. Union greed and an ever-increasing entitlement mentality are the things killing manufacturing in this country, not the manufacturers or the government. Bill Vander Werf _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Terry S Hodges Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 8:20 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant Toyota's are built in Georgetown Ky Nissan's are built in Smyrna Tn On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Dan Rachlin wrote: Strange how "Buy American" now means Toyota's that are built in Tennessee.?? On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 5:09 PM, Rich Pruett wrote: This is fascinating. If you watch, listen to the very last couple of sentences. This is a short video of a new Ford plant in Brazil . One look at this and you will be able to understand why there will probably never be another assembly plant built in the USA. It will also point out why more assembly plants will go offshore. You won't doubt that Ford, GM, and Chrysler are destined to go under, after watching this video. They will survive, but their assembly operations in the U.S. likely won't, whether we have provided a bailout or not (listen closely at the end for the reason why ). <http://apps.detnews.com/apps/multimedia/player/index.php?id=1189> http://apps.detnews.com/apps/multimedia/player/index.php?id=1189 And we wonder where the jobs go. This should help with the explanation! _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3315 - Release Date: 12/14/10
Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem
There is a bolt that can be removed to hold the pushrod up but it really isn't that hard to line the pump arm up with the pushrod and hold it in place. If you do use the bolt method to hold the rod use a soft bolt and just finger tighten it as you don't want to nick the rod and have it bind. When you test a fuel pump the pressure can be ok but you also need to check the volume, I am not sure what the exact volume should be but a good rule of thumb is a pint in 30 seconds. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 9:17 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem This was kind of on the line I was thinking, when the fuel pressure is measured- I quickly get 6 psi but it drops right off when I stop cranking. I also had the fuel line problem as discussed but replacing that did not do much good, neither did the carb overhaul. are there any tricks out there for replacing the fuel pump? don;t some blocks have a tapped hole in the front where you can put a bolt and bottom out against the push rod (holding it in place) thanks for all the advice!!! Harlan In a message dated 11/29/2010 8:42:57 PM Central Standard Time, a396...@fidnet.com writes: I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb. The fuel pump diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump and carb. Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry. Dale
Re: [Chevelle-list] facebook
No I'm not on facebook, I spend more time than I care to in front of my work computer so I try to keep it simple for non work related stuff. That is why I like this list. It's a good place to ask questions and keep up with Chevelle stuff without having to spend too much time at it. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Jim Thompson Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 12:48 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1074757937#!/group.php?gid=2211127107 How many of you are on Facebook? Have you joined this Chevelle Owner group? Enjoy the day. Jim Thompson http://www.jimhthompson.com <>
Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair
If you have good metal behind the molding than I agree that is the place to put the seam. I am assuming you are crimping the panel so that your overlap is smooth on the outside, if that is the case then crimp the existing panel and overlap the new one then the seam faces down and there is less chance of moisture getting in the seam later. I have seen some videos of panels being joined together using panel bonding adhesive like 3M automix rather than welding, it eliminates the chance of warping and these products hold panels on many late model vehicles so it may be worth looking into. Has anyone else on the list had any experience with it? A good spot-weld drill (I use Wurth or Kent industries) should cut through without walking around, rust makes it more difficult, keep it wet with cutting oil or you can burn up a tip in seconds. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 1:30 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair This will probably be the first of many messages as I attempt to repair this http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1 865 . I have a patch panel that goes as high as the tape. I am cutting off the entire length because the inner panel is rusted also and there is no way that I would be able to deal with that thru the holes I have cut now. First question - Where should I cut the panel. I'm thinking (dangerous) that I only need to go as high as the body line located just below the trim rivets.I like that area because if I do a less than perfect job, it will be partially hidden by the trim. Second question ( or statement) - I am going to flange and overlap the top seam. Should the new panel lie over the original or should the new panel be tucked under the original?Does it matter? I can get to the entire backside of that seam thru the access panel in the bed and should be able to seam seal it pretty well. Third - any hints/tips on drilling out the spot welds along the bottom? I bought a special drill for them but my first attempt resulted in the bit walking. Should I drill a small pilot hole? Thats all for today. Thanx Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] engine Identification
I left out the best part in my last email---it looks like it came from a corvette!!! I attached copies of pages from an old parts manual, there is an example of the number on the second page. It looks to me like you have a 55 or 56 265 powerglide engine made in filint. Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of bdo_ch...@att.net Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 7:40 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] engine Identification --- On Thu, 9/30/10, harkema...@aol.com wrote: > checked on the number 0552582F56F is the number stamped ahead of the rt > cyl head, on the block, there are no spaces, the engine is in a 55 chevy, > and is a small block, the valve covers have chevrolet written out on > them (the factory type) it is a 2 BBL, and has the oil filler pipe that > sticks up from the manifold. IIRC the single-letter suffix was in use up until the early 1960s. Does the engine have an oil filter? According to nastyz28.com "F" could be a 1955 265 or 1957 283 and the early 265s didn't come with one. I don't recognize the format of the rest of the number. Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] Coil Spring Compressors
When I put mine together I made a tool from a threaded rod that bolted to a piece of flat bar bolted in the lower shock mount of the lower control arm and the other end through the upper shock hole. With the lower control arm unbolted from the frame it was easy to pull it right up into place. I hope this helps. Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dan Solomon Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 8:32 AM To: Chevelle List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Coil Spring Compressors Advance and Salvo (a local store) only had strut compressors. They work from the outside but there isn't room to get in between the control arms with the threaded rods. Advance did sell an inexpensive internal tool made by "Performance Tools" but not sure it will fit. Thanks, Dan -- Sent using BlackBerry _ From: Dan Rachlin Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 08:46:05 -0400 To: ; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Coil Spring Compressors Try Advance auto Parts, they rent tools. Also try putting the compressors on the outside of the coil. Dan On Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 8:26 AM, Dan Solomon wrote: I have the motor and trans out of a 71 and the last item I need to remove are the control arms. Typically I use a floor jack and the weight of the engine to control the spring but without the engine, I can't do that. Went and rented an OEM 27035 coil spring compressor but the knuckle that mounts the hooks won't fit thru the lower control arm. Before I spend $40-$80 on a tool that won't fit either was wondering what works for you guys. Thanks, Dan -- Sent using BlackBerry
Re: [Chevelle-list] 700 R4 Trans
With everyone changing from manual to automatic does anyone have a manual console they would like to sell? Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 1:07 AM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-list] 700 R4 Trans Getting tired of pushing the clutch and shifting gears with the Richmond 5 sp. The shoulder is starting to hurt.The 5 speed is a great transmission. Totally bullet proof. It has been a great combo with the 2.73 gears. I think it is time to part with it and go with the 700 R4. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good source. The ol BB has about 500 hp. No racing. Will be looking for a home for the 5 sp. The shifter is a Hurst. Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] I need advice on screws for the interior -67 Chevelle SS396
Jerry I don't know how much time you want to spend getting the correct hardware but I bought the original parts manuals on disc from Detroit iron information systems for my 1965. if you can learn the art or reading those old manuals every nut bolt and screw is listed and some give the type of head and size. The ones without a description can sometimes be found with a google search by part number and if you lucky you get a description that way. GM parts departments also have a standard parts manual that they can look up hardware by part number and get a good description. If you purchase the manuals from Detroit Iron and find the numbers you can email them to me, my parts manager loves it when I bring him a list of screws to look up! It's a lot of work to go through but its worth it if you want it correct. I was also surprised how many of those fasteners are still available from GM, some have number changes but most of them are just like the original. I haven't gotten to the interior on mine yet but I have quite a bit of new GM hardware on my drive train and chassis. Chum Nault 65 SS L79 almost ready for paint _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rowan, Jerry Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 4:08 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I need advice on screws for the interior -67 Chevelle SS396 That's good, but I was trying to find out what the sizes are i.e. #8 screw with #6 head - so I can use my friends vast assortment of automotive screws - They are all stainless steel and high qualityThanks again for your timeJerry _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dan Rachlin Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 3:34 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I need advice on screws for the interior - 67 Chevelle SS396 http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=screws <http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=screws&SM=1&SC=0> &SM=1&SC=0 Try that. Dan On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 11:06 AM, Rowan, Jerry wrote: I have been doing some research on the size, length, head and washer patterns..etc on my 67 SS396. I have the chassis and assembly manuals for the car but they give no information on these screws. Does anyone know of a place I can go lookup the screw sizes for the interiorThanks very much for your time...Jerry Rowan
Re: [Chevelle-list] radiator
I sure would, then I would know exactially what I'm looking for. Thanks > I have my original radiator and shroud out of the car. I installed a cross > flow. Do you want pics? > > -Original Message- > From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net > [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault > Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 10:16 AM > To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] radiator > > I have a radiator problem that I hope someone has an answer for. I am > restoring a 65 L79 with a manual transmission and no a/c. I got this car > in > pieces so I do not have the original radiator or fan shroud. I ordered a > radiator #604644-1 and a fan shroud #605623 from Ecklers. The radiator I > received is perfect except there is no flange on the engine side of it to > bolt the fan shroud to. I can't find any pictures of a non A/C L79 so I > don't know exactly how it correctly mounts. I called Ecklers and they > confirmed that I have the correct radiator for this car and I can easily > fabricate some brackets but I want to put this car together as correct as > possible. Any suggestions? > > > Thanks > Chum Nault > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2817 - Release Date: 04/17/10 > 14:31:00 > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] radiator
Thanks for the link, I can see by one of the photos that the radiator has a flange on both sides. I will call ecklers back on Monday and see if they can get me one with the correct flanges. Chum -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dale Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 9:33 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] radiator I don't think any L79 came with A/C so that's not a problem. Check this site to see if you can pick up details. http://www.macswebs.com/richl79/65L79/index.html Rich may even be around and could help. Dale ChevelleStuff.com -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 9:16 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] radiator I have a radiator problem that I hope someone has an answer for. I am restoring a 65 L79 with a manual transmission and no a/c. I got this car in pieces so I do not have the original radiator or fan shroud. I ordered a radiator #604644-1 and a fan shroud #605623 from Ecklers. The radiator I received is perfect except there is no flange on the engine side of it to bolt the fan shroud to. I can't find any pictures of a non A/C L79 so I don't know exactly how it correctly mounts. I called Ecklers and they confirmed that I have the correct radiator for this car and I can easily fabricate some brackets but I want to put this car together as correct as possible. Any suggestions? Thanks Chum Nault
Re: [Chevelle-list] radiator
I have a radiator problem that I hope someone has an answer for. I am restoring a 65 L79 with a manual transmission and no a/c. I got this car in pieces so I do not have the original radiator or fan shroud. I ordered a radiator #604644-1 and a fan shroud #605623 from Ecklers. The radiator I received is perfect except there is no flange on the engine side of it to bolt the fan shroud to. I can't find any pictures of a non A/C L79 so I don't know exactly how it correctly mounts. I called Ecklers and they confirmed that I have the correct radiator for this car and I can easily fabricate some brackets but I want to put this car together as correct as possible. Any suggestions? Thanks Chum Nault
Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
Larry The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty then it is an open circuit in the sending unit. The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up the gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You don't need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance. Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit Mine is erratic even after adding a ground. How can you check it on the bench? I have a spare. Larry rml...@comcast.net wrote: > So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the > dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 > gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to > check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so > what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the > tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to > partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall for your help. Bob
Re: [Chevelle-list] Check out 1966 Chevelle rear brakes rare?
Take a look at this link, the aluminum drums are from a late 70's to mid 80's RWD GM http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49418_cheap_street_brakes/ind ex.html Chum Nault _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of dennis.mcgil...@mcgilliscompany.com Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:14 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List; tinindia...@aol.com Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Check out 1966 Chevelle rear brakes rare? Maybe they are from a Buick? Dennis - Original Message - From: tinindia...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 7:00 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Check out 1966 Chevelle rear brakes rare? If anyone interested, found this on Craigs list. Houston 1966 Chevelle rear <http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1119462482.html> brakes rare? _ The Average US Credit Score is 692. See <http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621489x1201450100/aol?redir=htt p:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID% 3D62%26bcd%3DAprilAvgfooterNO62> Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box
I just looked it up in the parts book and all 64-67 chevelles use 3890698 idler arms and all 68-72 chevelles use 7801909 with or without power steering. Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of GCP Tech Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 11:44 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box If power/manual pitman arms are different, does the idler arm change also? Granite City Performance custom engineered competition components http://www.granitecityperformance.com/ Dale <396...@lcisp.com> wrote: The power steering box itself should bolt in place of the manual box. You'll need a different pitman arm for power steering. Power steering pitman arms are listed for: 64-67 Chevelle #5693764 (cast with number 5693763) 68-72 Chevelle #5679209 (cast with number 5679208) FWIW, manual pitman arms are: 64-67 Chevelle #5693762 (cast with number 5693761) 68-72 Chevelle #7811779 (no casting number given) Naturally you'll need the proper power steering pump, hoses, brackets, pulleys where applicable and belt. Dale > -Original Message- > From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list- > boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Johann Grobler > Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 11:08 AM > To: granitecityperforma...@charter.net; The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box > > Yes please let us know as I want to do the same with my 65 Malibu > - Original Message - > From: "GCP Tech" > To: "chevelle-list: chevelles.net" > Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 5:57 PM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box > > > > I'll be replacing a manual steering box with a power box in a 1968 > > Chevelle, it appears to bolt into the same location...is there anything > I > > should watch out for? > > > > The manual box has lubricant leaking from under the plate with the > thrust > > adjuster thingy. Should there be a gasket between the body and plate? > > > > Looks like someone packed it full of (red) general purpose wheel bearing > > grease. Is this the proper lubricant? > > > > > > > > Granite City Performance > > custom engineered competition components > > http://www.granitecityperformance.com/ > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box
The swap to power steering is pretty straight forward and all bolt on. Yes there is a thin gasket between the cover and the housing (it can be easily made from gasket material if you can not find one). The shop manual says fill with water resistant EP chassis lubricant so a good quality wheel bearing grease is fine. Hang on the manual box as they are much harder to find than the power units, I needed one for my 65 and I had to rebuild the original, I got lucky and found NOS gears and bushings. Chum Nault -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of GCP Tech Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 10:58 AM To: chevelle-list: chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box I'll be replacing a manual steering box with a power box in a 1968 Chevelle, it appears to bolt into the same location...is there anything I should watch out for? The manual box has lubricant leaking from under the plate with the thrust adjuster thingy. Should there be a gasket between the body and plate? Looks like someone packed it full of (red) general purpose wheel bearing grease. Is this the proper lubricant? Granite City Performance custom engineered competition components http://www.granitecityperformance.com/
Re: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car
It sounds like a grounded T/S wire this info from a GM bulletin may be helpful Chum Nault This PI was superseded to include 2005 model year. Please discard PIC3055. _ The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Numerous electrical conditions resulting from left I/P fuse block wire harness chaffing on I/P to knee bolster support bracket. Conditions can involve wipers, trunk release, radio, turn signal lamps, power mirrors, air bag, door locks, stop lamps, accessory fuse, hazard lamps, heater, air conditioning, HVAC, power seat. Conditions can be warning lamps on, intermittent or inoperative operation of functions. Repair chafed wires and move wire harness behind (inside of) knee bolster support brace. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. Bottom of Form _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Malibu Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 2:30 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car In 2001 Pontiac had a recall for this. Call a dealer and see if your car is covered. This was a problem in the Alero and the Malibu also. Or try calling Pontiac at 1-800-620-7668. They may or may not cover it. This was also a recall in 2003. If they don't cover it, this site tells you how to repair it. Hope it helps. http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Grand-Am-Turn-Signals - Original Message - From: rml...@comcast.net To: BOBBY <mailto:Chevelle-list@chevelles.net> Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 8:17 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car I bought my daughter a 05 Pontiac grand am. Recently the hazard light switch starting clicking as if the hazards or the turn signals were on. Except the clicking was in double time. I bought a new switch and it continued to do the same thing. All the lights are working so I know its not a bulb. Iam totally stumped. Does anyone else know of this problem. Iam sorry this is not chevelle related, but it is a GM product and its for my daughter. Thank you Bob Lancaster.
