Re: [Chevelle-List] Best auto hobby magazines
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List If anyone wants to get rid of their old magazines, don't throw them away, give 'em to me :) I like looking at the old ones! Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Best auto hobby magazines Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List OK - We agree many of us keep back issues. Til I gave it up this spring I have all Super Chevys going back to about 89.WHY?I tell myself that I'll get rid of them, but don't. Maybe once a year I go to look for something from the past. Why do I keep them? rick On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:34:19 -0400 Herbert Lumpp [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Ok, I'll chime in on this thread - I've been a subscriber to Hot Rod and Car Craft since the mid '80's, Chevy High Performance since '94, Sport Rider since '97, and Playboy since '91. Much to my wife's dislike, I've still got every issue of each one! Along the way I've also subscribed to other mags too, such as Popular Hot Rodding, Super Chevy, 4 Wheel Off Road, and Vette. Obviously I feel I have an experienced opinion regarding which magazine(s) to read... I think Hot Rod is the premiere voice as far as the auto/street machine hobby is concerned. It reaches into all aspects of our sport whether you like it or not. It keeps me up to date. Car Craft seems more taylored to the little guy on a budget, which is probably most of us. Car Craft doesn't seem to take the hobby as serious as Hot Rod, which is a nice change of pace for entertainment along with good tech articles and features. CHP, is to me, a combination of both Hot Rod and Car Craft, but obviously focused on Chevy cars. The articles and features are first rate and I always find something of interest. Sport Rider fills my need for two wheel excitement along with my bike, and Playboy, well, I read the articles, don't you? cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino http://web.tampabay.rr.com/herbsworld/Elky/welcome.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Coating new gas tanks straps?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I've always been told that black disperses heat the best out of any color. That's the reasoning I've heard about painting an engine block black anyway. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 10:27 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Coating new gas tanks straps? Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List There are different schools of thought on this (like so many things resto-related). Some people in hot climates paint their tanks silver or even white to deflect heat. Black will of course absorb heat. I don't know how they came from the factory, but my guess is that if the car was undercoated, the tank was too. My other guess is that if the car was not undercoated the tank was galvanized, which you can still have done. See what the rest of the group says, but I figured I'd take a stab at it since nobody else has replied yet. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Coating new gas tanks straps?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Got it... Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 12:08 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Coating new gas tanks straps? Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List We're talking about 2 different things. I'm talking about heat from the road being absorbed or reflected by the gas tank and you're talking about heat from inside the engine being distributed. You can't reflect heat off of the inside of an engine, so white paint won't help you there. You can only reflect heat away if it's coming from an external source. -Original Message- I've always been told that black disperses heat the best out of any color. That's the reasoning I've heard about painting an engine block black anyway. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Custom Dash
Here's the cheaper, DIY version :) http://members.aol.com/beavrab/guage.html Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Custom Dash T in SC: Chevelle Digital Instrumentation they are set up to use your old dash but do custom fabrication as well. Larry
Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Well, the reason I pulled mine out was to put a Vintage Air unit in and it comes with a plastic cover piece. As for wiring, I kinda went crazy cutting everything out that looked related to A/C, but I wasn't concerned about retaining my heater, so I don't think I'm much help in that area :) If you wanted to, you could probably purchase a cover piece from Vintage Air. What I did was find a hotrod shop in town and they sell a lot of the individual Vintage Air pieces that come in kits. Hope that helps. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Scott_Lisa Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List What did you use to cover the hole in the firewall? I was thinking of just making a plate out of sheetmetal and fabricate a cover of some sort. I'm interested to see what solution Tom has to offer. Anyone know what wiring can safely come out? I have the diagrams but they look greek to me. I need to retain the heater as it is driven daily. Thanks, Scott 71 Malibu 350 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 06:48:54 -0700 Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I did it a couple years ago on my 71. I didn't have to remove the fender, but I did drop the inner fender a few inches to get everything out. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Scott_Lisa Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 5:55 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Ok, most of the AC was removed when I got the car but I'm tired of the condenser box making my firewall look like hell. Has anyone here takan a factory AC car and removed the condenser box and covered the hole in the firewall? Do I have to remove the pass. fender to get at all the bolts for the box? It looks like it. Is there a website that describes how to go about this? I'm sure that there is alot of wiring that can go as well. Any input on this? Thanks, Scott 71 Malibu 350 _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List It's not a stock replacement. I used their universal unit and my friend made me a custom panel to put in. He basically used an old street sign... cut it to size, held it up to the bench grinder that had a wire brush type attachment. The final appearance is brushed alumninum. We secured that piece in the hole where the ac unit came out of and then drilled holes into the aluminum piece and stuck the round dial knobs through. I'm really picky about my ac though and I like to be blown away by cold air. To be honest this unit just doesn't blow hard like a new car, but man it sure feels better than those couple of summers when I didn't have any air in this 110+ deg. heat :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: rob boleky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 12:24 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List did the vintage air kit work well they told me that on a 71 the control heads where difrent and there kit needed mods - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 2:30 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Well, the reason I pulled mine out was to put a Vintage Air unit in and it comes with a plastic cover piece. As for wiring, I kinda went crazy cutting everything out that looked related to A/C, but I wasn't concerned about retaining my heater, so I don't think I'm much help in that area :) If you wanted to, you could probably purchase a cover piece from Vintage Air. What I did was find a hotrod shop in town and they sell a lot of the individual Vintage Air pieces that come in kits. Hope that helps. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Scott_Lisa Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List What did you use to cover the hole in the firewall? I was thinking of just making a plate out of sheetmetal and fabricate a cover of some sort. I'm interested to see what solution Tom has to offer. Anyone know what wiring can safely come out? I have the diagrams but they look greek to me. I need to retain the heater as it is driven daily. Thanks, Scott 71 Malibu 350 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 06:48:54 -0700 Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I did it a couple years ago on my 71. I didn't have to remove the fender, but I did drop the inner fender a few inches to get everything out. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Scott_Lisa Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 5:55 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] AC removal Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Ok, most of the AC was removed when I got the car but I'm tired of the condenser box making my firewall look like hell. Has anyone here takan a factory AC car and removed the condenser box and covered the hole in the firewall? Do I have to remove the pass. fender to get at all the bolts for the box? It looks like it. Is there a website that describes how to go about this? I'm sure that there is alot of wiring that can go as well. Any input on this? Thanks, Scott 71 Malibu 350 _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
Re: [Chevelle-List] Redundant question: tire size for 67 Chevelle SS
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Just a preference of looks over functionality, unless of course you're racing then there's benefits. With big and littles you can't rotate the tires. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Ken's Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 9:08 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Redundant question: tire size for 67 Chevelle SS Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I know this question has been raised previously. But, here goes. Subject: Tire Size for 67 Chevelle SS. I am planning to purchase the BF Goodrich Radial T/A's on the 67 SS. Currently the tires are P255/70R15's (came with the 67). Car is not a daily driver. Do I stick with the same tire size ? Have read about someone here using P235/60R15's (front) and P255/60R15's in rear ? Pros and Cons to this set up versus same tire size all way around ? Advice on these different options. Note: I will be using car to cruise on weekends and show on occasion. Won't be racing. Thanks, Ken __ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Misc Stuff!!
I didn't think it sounded like a sales pitch... just a guy letting other guys with the same interest know where they can find some parts. I for one always appreciate finding out where the parts are... especially if I'm looking for something in particular. At least he's contributing, unlike most of the lurkers on the list :) I'd hate to get so picky about what people can post on this list that it scares people from posting for fear of being criticized about what they post. If you don't like what a particular person has to say, then delete their posts, or setup a filter in your mail program to do it for you. I'm not trying to start an arguement or anything with you, Larry. That's just my $.02 :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Misc Stuff!! Trevor: i don't know about anyone else thinks but your emails are more of a sales pitch than a helping hand like you stated you would be doing your first message. if you want to sell us or me stuff i suggest you email us separately or mail the group and tell us you have stuff for sale at TeamChevelle. as far as I'm concerned you are welcome here but not to pitch your wares every time you pop in the room. Larry (z16chevelleguy)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Vapor lock fuel pump?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I have had similar problems before and it turned out to be the fuel pump. I usually just get the cheap free replacement ones from checker, or pep boys... It seems whenever my fuel pump goes out, I have to try about 3 of them before I get one that works. The symptoms are the same as what you guys are saying... it'll run for a while... get hot and then it'll have just enough gas flowing to idle, but if I hit the gas it'll die... about 30 min. later it'll start again and run for a while. I put a clear fuel filter on it and I could see that when this was happening, I was getting very minimal fuel flow through the filter. When I have a good working fuel pump, the filter stays completely full with just a tiny air bubble. Anyways... dunno if this is your problem or not, but I thought I'd share my experiences. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 6:14 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Vapor lock=we think we figured it out Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I had the same problem you described. I installed a 1/4 composite spacer. All was fine for a couple of weeks and then it did it again! It was a hot, humid night in DC and I was doing some stop-n-go sightseeing with relatives. It started by running rough and then I pulled into an area to stop...and it wouldn't start. Raised the hood, waited 10 mins and it fired right up! I'll look at the fuel line routing. Also, an old guy told me to try putting a clothes line pin on the fuel line. He said he tried it and it worked!(?) MM - Original Message - From: Ken's Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 7:34 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Vapor lock=we think we figured it out Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Gang: Thanks for your quick answers. I think we have located the problem. The fuel pump and lines are routed near a radiator hose. In fact the hose is right on the lines. We did not notice this before. Thanks, Ken --- Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When you state that the car would not start, I take it that the engine would turn over, but just not fire up?? I know people at Edelbrock and have emailed your problem to them. I will let you know the reply. Keith __ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] So where are folks buying their Flowmasters these days?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List They're listed in my Jegs catalog... part # 389-42543 $59.99 go to www.jegs.com and search for part# 389-42543 Rodney. - Original Message - From: James R Hunter, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 4:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] So where are folks buying their Flowmasters these days? Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List As always, thanks for all the responses. Given that I really like my current loud exhaust system (it definitely has an aggressive resonation inside the interior with the windows up or down), I really do think that the 40 series 2-chamber mufflers are for me. Trouble is, though, that after calling some local auto parts stores and looking through my Chevelle catalogs some generic catalogs (Jegs, Summit, Whitney, etc.), I can't find anyone who sells the 2-chamber mufflers. None of the local stores I know of (inlucing the chains like Pep Boys, NAPA, etc.) carry any Flowmaster equipment, while the various catalogs seem to carry a variety of Flowmaster pipes mufflers except for the 42543 2-chamber 2.5 offset/offset mufflers that I need. I plan to contact Flowmaster directly on Monday, but in the meantime is there anyone out there with 42543 mufflers and if so, where did you get them? Thanks again in advance! Jim -69-SS396- H. GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block
Every article I've read has said to get the 2-bolt.. I can't remember now exactly why, but I'm sure someone on here knows... I'll look it up in one of the articles I have and I'll get back to you, if no one else knows why. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Daniel To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 12:22 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block Just curious why you are looking for specifically a 2-bolt and not a 4-bolt? I just bought a 400sbc 4-bolt complete but taken apart and magnafluxed for $200 that I'm gonna try to rebuild. -Daniel72 Malibu 350/35053 GMC97 Intrepid - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 8:28 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block Hey guys... I'm really wanting to put a 406 in my car, but can't really afford to just buy one right now. I'd like to buy a block and then buy the carm, heads, pistons, etc. as I get money. It seems to be a pretty popular engine to build right now, so I'd like to get a block before they're too scarce. I thought I'd ask all of the experienced engine builders out there about how to go about finding a block, specifically a 2-bolt 400. Where is the best place to buy a used block? A wrecking yard, through classified ads, word of mouth? What are some questions to ask when buying? How do I know the block is good before I buy it? Is it better to get a whole engine if possible, or is that just wasted money since I'm going rebuild and put all new parts in anyway? Maybe there's some parts that are reuseable? If so, what are they? What do you think the price range is on a used 400 2-bolt block? Any other words of wisdom welcome. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ
Re: [Chevelle-List] testing alternator question, please help-
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List First of all check your battery and make sure it's fully charged... Should be around 12.6 or so... 11.9 volts or less means it needs to be charged. Here's the 4 tests that came in the instructions of my alternator: If you have an amp meter in your car: Turn on the ignition and lights. Note the amount of discharge on amp meter. After starting engine, amp meter should indicate less discharge or a charge condition dependon state of bettery. If engine idle is lwo the amp meter may indicate a slight discharge -- this i snormal. Amp meter should be advance to 0 or charge as engine speed increases. Check belt tension from time to time. Belt slippage is more apt to occur when battery is discharged or weak or when heavy demands are made on charging system. Apply a moderate load to the charging system (i.e., high beam headlights) and run engine at 1500 RPMs. Using a digital voltmeter set for DC volts and with one test lead on the grounding bolt at the adjusting ear and the other test lead on the negative (-) battery post, measure to see if you have DC volts present. if you have a reading of 0.10VDC or higher, you have a poor ground connection between alternator and battery. Recheck your alternator grounding points at the foot and adjusting ear and the negative battery cable. With battery fully changed and engine running, check voltage at the battery (+) post and ground (-) post. Voltage should be 13.8 to 14.5VDC, anything above 15.5VDC is dangerous and anything below 12.7VDC means the battery is not charging. Using a voltmeter, measure the voltage drop bet ween the (+) terminal of the battery and the alternator (+) output terminal. Voltage should be less than 0.40VDC. If voltage is higher than 0.40VDC, check for poor connections between (+) of alternator and (+) of battery. Even too small a (+) battery cable will cause this problem. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 10:23 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] testing alternator question, please help- Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Hi all, Sorry to keep asking so many questions about alternators, charging systems, whatever, but I just bought a tester and need to know what to set it to in order to verify my alternator is working. I just got the tester from Pep Girls, and it's a Superpro digital multitester. Also, does an alternator put out volts, amps, or both? Just curious... Jim '66 Malibu __ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block
From a private party, business, junk yard or where? Was that one of those once in a lifetime deals or is that about the fair price? Sounds lower than what I was expecting to pay, so I'm curious. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Jim Buckingham To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:47 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block I bought one complete for 100 bucks. Jim Buckingham -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 11:29 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block Hey guys... I'm really wanting to put a 406 in my car, but can't really afford to just buy one right now. I'd like to buy a block and then buy the carm, heads, pistons, etc. as I get money. It seems to be a pretty popular engine to build right now, so I'd like to get a block before they're too scarce. I thought I'd ask all of the experienced engine builders out there about how to go about finding a block, specifically a 2-bolt 400. Where is the best place to buy a used block? A wrecking yard, through classified ads, word of mouth? What are some questions to ask when buying? How do I know the block is good before I buy it? Is it better to get a whole engine if possible, or is that just wasted money since I'm going rebuild and put all new parts in anyway? Maybe there's some parts that are reuseable? If so, what are they? What do you think the price range is on a used 400 2-bolt block? Any other words of wisdom welcome. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ
Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List 400 Small block. I thought the big block was 402? Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 8:49 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List 400 Small Block or 400 Big Block??? - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Well, I learn something new everyday :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 9:11 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List the 402 is a 396 .030 over There was also a 400 Big Block along with the small block 400 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Well, I decided on a 406 small block... I really want a 454, but I'm not ready to get into the high $$ of the big blocks... plus I can make the big block torque with a small block 406 and it's still lighter and I don't have to change the springs. Another question I forgot to add to the original post. Should I use the stock crank or go with an aftermarket crank? Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Buying a used engine block Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List you could also take a 396 and punch it out .060 over and that would be a 406 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Business ratings
Thought you guys might like this site... http://www.planetfeedback.com/homepage/0,2585,95,00.html?company=feedbackTypeCode= Give positive or negative feedback about any company. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ
Re: [Chevelle-List] Speakers, stereos and sounding good
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I've got a Pioneer detatchable face cd player with Pioneer 6x9's in the back shelf. I've got a box that was given to me that has 2 10 subs (takes up most of the trunk). I've got a 300 watt 2 channel Rockford Fosgate amp and a 4 channel 200 watt MPX amp. The only thing that sucks is I can hear the trunk rattling from the bass when the windows are down. I'd like to have those kick panels with the speakers built in to them.. just haven't had any extra cash lately :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Tom Gunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 10:09 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Speakers, stereos and sounding good Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Well know that my Chevelle is being driven a lot more this year than in many past years, I'm starting to nit-pick the details. One of them is the radioit sounds like crap! It has a decent cassette player in it, and I've attached a small equalizer/amplifier to it that is out of view. I also have a pair of 6x9 speakers in the rear package tray, ...not sure the wattage of them. Anyway, it sounds pretty lousy. Usually, its just off, as the sound of the exhaust drowns it out anyway. I get no bass from it at all, even with the equalizer. Is it becuase of the trunk being so large have anything to do with it? Do those cardboard boxes that wrap around the rear speakers do any good to help this? What kind of sound systems to do you guys have in your Chevelles? I'm not looking for anything extravagant...just a normal stereo that sounds decent on a long drive. Oh, and at low speeds, I also get a *lot* of engine noise coming through the speakers...I guess this has to do with the alternator?? Is there a way to fix this? Tom Tom's 1966 Chevelle SS http://home.earthlink.net/~tmagyar/chevelle - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Headlight Relay
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Hey Darrell, I need to put a relay in my car to help the H-4's reach their full potential. When it comes to relays and well, anything electrical I'm electrically retarded. I was wondering if you'd be willing to draw a diagram of what/how you hooked everything up? There's no rush or anything... If you have time to do that for me I'd appreciate it. Thanks :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2001 7:06 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Headlight Relay Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I did a good thing last weekend. Having recently moved into the country a bit and driving now on really dark country roads, I'd begun noticing that the headlights in my '66 Elky weren't all that bright (unless they were really switched onto bright). I did some investigating and found only 10.5 volts making it to the lights (that voltage makes a long and perilous voyage before getting to the lights). I remembered an article that ran in one of the car mags not too long ago about adding a relay into the headlight circuit. I didn't go digging for the article, but just dived right in. I used an extra Radio Shack auto relay I had laying around and attached it to the radiator support. I used one of the original supply lines to the driver's headlight as the control voltage and pulled the load voltage from the junction box. Did a little cutting and splicing - took about an hour - and it was done. I hadn't done any night driving until last night and had almost forgotten the job, but once I got on the road the difference was amazing. 12 volt headlamps work much better once they're supplied with 12 volts (or 13.5 as the case may be). For night driving in really dark areas, this mod is highly recommended. Darrell Spencer Cave Creek, Arizona '70 Malibu '66 El Camino - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery and new alternator
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Everywhere else I checked had the same price as Desert Rat, except CostCo where you can buy wholesale. I ended up getting the one from CostCo for $30 cheaper. I had my alternator tested today at AutoZone and it was bad, so I traded them... we'll see if all this helps... I might end up getting a more powerful alternator if this doesn't work. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Josh Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 6:10 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Desert Rat is just jacking up the price on the battery bc most customers will not shop around and just assume the shop has the best price. Go to a battery shop and see what kind of price you can get from them, you will probably be suprised at the difference, they get thier stuff cheaper so they can have a lower price than the 4X4 shop. My friend used to work at an Interstate Battery supplier and they could get good prices on new batterys they carried Optima I cann't remember the price exactly but the red top I believe was something like $110 I don't know the CCA though but it was up there. Josh From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:24:49 -0700 Ok guys... I've been researching an Optima battery I went into Desert Rat (local 4x4 shop) to buy a red top Optima. Well, it turns out they have different power levels of the red top (which the Optima site doesn't say anything about). I told the guy it was going in a Chevelle and he said he was out of stock right now, but they'll be in Wed. (tomorrow). So I said okay and proceeded to call Firestones and some other places.. I'll never buy anything from a Firestone here in town... what a bunch of morons working there. I called one and asked the guy if he sold Optima batteries and he says we don't sell many of those. hold on and let me see if we have any. So he comes back. Ya, we have one. I said how much? and he says h I'd have to make a phone call to find out for sure, but I think they're like $169. I said goodbye quickly I called a few more Firestones and they were all pretty much morons... Anyways, back to the point... I went to CostCo today to see how much theirs are and they're only $99 compared to $129 at Desert Rat... the only thing is Desert Rat shows their Optima as having 1250 cranking amps (see http://www.desertrat.com/optimbat/optima.htm) and the CostCo shows theirs as like 980 or something like that. So, I've done a web search and I can't find any place else at all who advertises a 1250 cranking amp Optima. Does anyone have a clue about this? Does Desert Rat just have a new improved Optima and everyone else is selling old stock or what? Thanks for any help. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery
thanks Leo, I have already tried their website, but I can't find anywhere on there the info that I need. I did use the battery locator program they have, but they say I only need like 750 cca and I want the most powerful battery they've got. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Leo Costigan To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Rodney, try this link, http://www.optimabatteries.com/, you may find more about this series of battery's. A lot more information. Leo - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:24 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Ok guys... I've been researching an Optima battery I went into Desert Rat (local 4x4 shop) to buy a red top Optima. Well, it turns out they have different power levels of the red top (which the Optima site doesn't say anything about). I told the guy it was going in a Chevelle and he said he was out of stock right now, but they'll be in Wed. (tomorrow). So I said okay and proceeded to call Firestones and some other places.. I'll never buy anything from a Firestone here in town... what a bunch of morons working there. I called one and asked the guy if he sold Optima batteries and he says "we don't sell many of those. hold on and let me see if we have any." So he comes back. Ya, we have one. I said how much? and he says "h I'd have to make a phone call to find out for sure, but I think they're like $169". I said goodbye quickly I called a few more Firestones and they were all pretty much morons... Anyways, back to the point... I went to CostCo today to see how much theirs are and they're only $99 compared to $129 at Desert Rat... the only thing is Desert Rat shows their Optima as having 1250 cranking amps (see http://www.desertrat.com/optimbat/optima.htm) and the CostCo shows theirs as like 980 or something like that. So, I've done a web search and I can't find any place else at all who advertises a 1250 cranking amp Optima. Does anyone have a clue about this? Does Desert Rat just have a new improved Optima and everyone else is selling old stock or what? Thanks for any help. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ
[Chevelle-List] Alternator woes (long)
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I'm just curious what kind of battery/alternator setup you guys are running. Particularly those of you with stereo systems and a/c. I've been having problems with my car not starting in the summer heat. Last summer I put a F*d solenoid in and it helped, but hasn't cured my problems. If I go across town about 30-40 miles or so while using the a/c (and/or stereo), let the car sit for about 10-15 minutes while I run into the store and then try to leave, it won't start. At this point, I have two options. If I wait for 30-45 minutes and let the car cool down, it'll (barely) start again and I can go back home (forget about stopping anywhere else, or I have to go through the same thing all over again). The 2nd option is to have someone jump start my car, which allows the car to start up instantly with no problems. After getting very annoyed by this, I've noticed that if I go across town without the a/c on, shut off the car, come back in 10-15 min., and start the car it'll start up (again barely, but at least it starts). Here are some other things I've noticed. When I start the car, the voltmeter gauge reads approx. 14 volts. When I turn the a/c on, it drops to just above 12 volts. Stereo isn't hooked right now since it'd only make matters worse. When I have the a/c on at night with the headlights, the voltage drops to around 10 while at idle. When I accelerate again it will go back to 12 volts. I can't afford to replace everything ie: mini starter, dual battery, alternator, etc., so I was thinking of just getting a 2nd battery so that I could jump start myself when I needed to since that always solves starting problems when someone else jump starts my car. Then I thought, well, why not make it easier and just add a dual battery setup, so I can just flip a switch and use the 2nd battery. But the more I thought about it, I'd probably need a higher power alternator to charge dual batteries. SO, I think I'm going to splurge and go for a high power alternator and see if that will help me keep the battery I've got, charged. Does this sound logical to you guys? What are some good high power alternators? I was looking Mr. Amp 130 amp. alternators which are on sale right now for $258 instead of the normal $285. Any Mr. Amp horror stories? Are there any other brands you'd suggest? Thanks for the input. Forgot to mention, I'm running an alternator now that one of my 'hotrod' friends used in his 58 Belair. It's a newer style alternator from a 90's Cadillac. It's got the internal style regulator. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re: [Chevelle-List] Need some info.
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List No, I haven't touched the engine.. The previous owner had just had the engine rebuilt before I got it... so I figured I'd wait until it died and then I'd be forced to splurge on something I wanted in there... well the stupid thing won't die :) It's worse than the energizer bunny... and I get unbelievably low emmisions every year when I have to run it through the sniffer. I could just go ahead and put a new engine in there, but I feel like I'm waisting a good, working engine... so I just haven't yet. The only thing I did do was replace the Rochester 2 barrel carb with a Holley 2 barrel 500 cfm carb... and that really improved the performance. As far as exhaust, I've had dual exhaust since I bought the car (too bad they're 2 pipes), so I dunno how much that makes a difference. I've been wanting to do the exhaust too, but I wanna hold out until after the engine so I can get the big 3 pipes :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 3:48 AM Subject: Re: Re: [Chevelle-List] Need some info. Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Rodney; I am putting my 71 back together. New front end w/disc's and all, lots of new parts on the 307 engine. Was planning on running it as is w/just dual exhaust for a couple of years. Do you have any engine enhancements?.. BTW, have decided on the BFG TA's 235X60X15's. Thanks, Denny/GA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I've got about 85,000 on my 307 right now and it's still running strong... well for what it is :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Need some info.
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I've got about 85,000 on my 307 right now and it's still running strong... well for what it is :) Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Ronald V. Mlejnek [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 4:43 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Need some info. Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Tom, I used Coroless on the frame and then put the glossy polurethane over it. There are directions for better paint adhesion, but I think I waited too long. A ding shows up pretty easily. Will not really know untill I drive it for a couple of years if it works. I did scuff it up before shooting color, but not sure that helped much. The surface of Coroless is like teflon. What they should do is develop a coating to go over Coroless that makes for better advesion of color coats. You are fortunate to get that many miles out of that engine. Everything I have read about 307's is that the metal is soft and wears fast. I changed oil and filter every 3000 miles without fail. By 50,000 miles, the rear two plugs were fouling all the time. As for the sandbasted parts, I used the same gloss black polyurethane, but one of the articles I read said to paint the springs a contrasting color of black, like flat black. It said they show better. Also, I tried to find someone with the processes of treating bare metal like zinc coating and anodizing, but it is prohibitively expensive. Ron At 02:52 PM 07/04/2001 EDT, you wrote: Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Ron, Thanks for the info. I do have an assortment of Eastwood paints left over from my 70.I found a listing in the Team Chevelle tech archive that tells which parts are cast and which are painted. I knew some parts were supposed to cast steel in color, I just wasn't sure which ones. Also, any opinion on the Coroless from Eastwood. I am not taking the body off, just lifting it up enough so that I can paint the frame and install new body mounts. I don't plan on sandblasting the frame or anything. Just want to put a rust coating on befor I paint it. The 307 has 100,000 miles on it and ran fine before I pulled it out. The only thing I'm going to do to it is powerwash it, repaint it, do the timing chain, reseal it, and put it back in. I am actually in the middle of sand blasting the control arms, springs, drums, and spindles for the front end. I will probably have the front end done within the next 2 weeks. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Re: Radiator Question
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I looked up the radiator for a 71 chevelle under 454 and it gave 2 row, 3 row, and 4 row option with brand names of Visteon, Modine, and Go/Dan Industries. Hope that helps. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Tom Gunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 7:39 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Re: Radiator Question Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I got a good deal at www.radiator.com for my driver car. I don't know how they deal with the 2 core vs 3 core issue. Rick, that looks like a really great website. They quoted me a price of $227.00 for my '66 w/ 396BB, manual transmission. Problem is, it doesn't go into specifics, and I clicked on all the links I could to see what brand, how many rows (3-4) etc. The description does give some idea (below). It's an OEM replacement. which was 3 rows, right? I was wondering if its better to go with a 4-row I only want to buy one of these things that will give me the best cooling efficiency ;) Maybe you can tell me what brand it is...? -Tom RADIATOR This brand new radiator meets or beats Chevrolet specifications for fit and quality. It will match or exceed the cooling capacity of your vehicle's original radiator and is guaranteed to fit. The quality is backed by a Lifetime Warranty. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Napster in Dumpster
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List fservs and ftp sites listed on IRC 396guy wrote: I guess Napster has blocked all copyrighted material. Its been a while since I've been there and can't get any searches to come up with anything. Any other sites? Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold http://www.dalesplace.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Watch out boys and girls
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I think he was talking about the long a pronunciation. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Spatch [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 12:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Watch out boys and girls Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I hope you are kidding about Taxes. Texas is one of the least taxed states in the country. So you have to have insurance, just about every other state requires the same thing. Spatch - Original Message - From: Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 11:53 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Watch out boys and girls Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List At 02:04 PM 06/24/2001 -0400, you wrote: i would guess this is why most states require you to have insurance. i even have an umbrella package cuz you ain't going to get from me what i worked so hard to get Larry That's a joke, 1/3 of the people driving in Dallas don't even have a licence, much less insurance. Taxes (spelled right) requires insurance, to renew your plates. People buy 1 months worth then quit paying on it! [EMAIL PROTECTED] The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes) Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/ Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/ El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/ My Machine Shop http://cncshop.8m.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Alignment Woes
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Simplifies things. Does any vender discount GW parts. As far as I can Not that I know of... I bought mine from GW. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
