Re: [Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild -what would you have done and why?
Hi Steve, > I am still trying to figure out which builder I want to go with on my > 396/402. I am tempted to go with doing as much as I can at home, but the > reliability of a local builder that does it all the time and has all the > special tools sounds good, still I won't learn as much. If you want to learn, I would suggest having all the machine work done at the best place you can find, then assemble the engine at home. As long as you know the correct torques, have a torque wrench, some patience, and a mechanical mind, you can build your engine. > have a little performance if I ever need it... But at the same time, > there is a limit to what's "logical" for driving it on long trips. Still > I guess many a 502 with 502 HP are driven on ling trips? You can easily drive a 400+ hp engine on long trips. If you're concerned about mileage get a four cylinder (just kidding) ;) . A powerful engine can get decent mileage if you can keep your foot out of it (I have a hard time with that), and/or you spring for an overdrive trans or install highway gears in the rear. My Elky gets around 15 mpg on the highway with 460 cid, 3.70 rear and .62 overdrive, not too bad for 450+ hp. > I heard once that you don't want valve guides re-knurled. Get new ones. Most definitely. Knurling guides are for economy rebuilds or if you plan to sell the engine/car soon. > Anyone have any knowledge there? What about the guys that say they put > in all stainless steel valves and name brand names? SS valves are nice touch if you want to spend the money. You can actually pick up power with SS valves that are necked down just before the valve head. Since it sounds like you want a mild performance build, your stock valves (as long as they're good) should work fine. > Would going through the expense of putting in all new springs > although some test ok have any merit? If you're getting a performance cam & lifters, spend the extra money and get the matching springs, retainers, and locks. > Any particular brand bearings for reliability? Why? Michigan (Clevite) 77 are decent and probably the most common. King bearings are another brand: http://www.kingbearings.com/index.html > What other "quality" would you build in for reliability and longevity or > efficiency? Balance the rotating assembly. You'll get more power, a smoother running engine, and 1000's of more miles out of a rebuild by doing this. > I've never owned a big block before...never even driven one. Maybe I'll > get this big block curiosity out of my system and build a 350 for it > later. See, that's where you're mistaken. Once you drive a big block there's no going back to a small block. :) cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild -what would you have done and why?
I was always one to stick to small blocks, until I bought a 75 caprice covertible with a factory 454, solely because it was cheap and had a BB. It ran like crap till I tuned it up, and then I was converted...They pull like freight trains. I remember picking my dad up from the bar one night, and he remarked it didn't seem to have much pickup. WOT resulted in a subdued "ohok" And that was an emmisions restrained motor. The car got crushed, but the 454 is waiting for a workover and new home, hehe. Don't get guides knurled, its well worth it to have new bronze inserts put in. Rob Chevelle 69" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >I am still trying to figure out which builder I want to go with on my >396/402. I am tempted to go with doing as much as I can at home, but the >reliability of a local builder that does it all the time and has all the >special tools sounds good, still I won't learn as much. > >In any case, I went into a local speed shop today to talk to them. I was >given a tour. They are mostly a MOPAR shop, but build Chevy's and Fo**'s >as well. He showed me how they were building a 64 wedge engine with a >dual offset quads ..sweet! And a Chevy 560 racing engine in there made >my Big Block look puny. > >The guy showed me more huge machines than I knew existed in a machine >shop. Many of them computer controlled. Looks like a lot of them were >acquired in the second half of the 90's. > >What he said to me sounded pretty good ...the only thing I might have to >do is reign back how much HP he builds into it, as I hope to drive this >thing long distances and I want to be able to pass gas stations as well >as "rice rockets". I mean, I'd hate to have a Rustang laugh at me (I >know, I know ...some of the new ones can really fly).s have to >have a little performance if I ever need it... But at the same time, >there is a limit to what's "logical" for driving it on long trips. Still >I guess many a 502 with 502 HP are driven on ling trips? > >I heard once that you don't want valve guides re-knurled. Get new ones. >Anyone have any knowledge there? What about the guys that say they put >in all stainless steel valves and name brand names? Would going through >the expense of putting in all new springs although some test ok have any >merit? > >Any particular brand bearings for reliability? Why? > >What other "quality" would you build in for reliability and longevity or >efficiency? > >I've never owned a big block before...never even driven one. Maybe I'll >get this big block curiosity out of my system and build a 350 for it >later. >Steve > > > > > >- >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild -what would you have done and why?
Yes, absolutely avoid having the valve guides knurled; it's a short-term fix at best. New iron (stock to moderate rebuild) or bronze (high-perf) guide inserts are the way to go. Stainless valves are nice but if your old valves are in good shape and you're not building a screaming monster you can re-use them or replace them with regular steel OEM-style valves. Since you're replacing the cam and lifters IMO new valvesprings are a must; don't cut corners with your valvetrain. Be careful you don't get a builder who insists on using only high-dollar parts, even if your application doesn't call for them. If you don't need stainless steel valves or titanium 10-degree retainers, why pay for them? Send the money to me instead! ;^) Make sure the oil return passages in the cylinder heads are smooth and free of casting flash. Cleaning them up is a simple job that takes a couple of hours with a Dremel or other rotary tool and is time well-spent; oil puddling on top of the heads isn't doing anything to help your engine. Brad O. > I am still trying to figure out which builder I want to go with on my > 396/402. I am tempted to go with doing as much as I can at home, but the > reliability of a local builder that does it all the time and has all the > special tools sounds good, still I won't learn as much. > > In any case, I went into a local speed shop today to talk to them. I was > > I heard once that you don't want valve guides re-knurled. Get new ones. > Anyone have any knowledge there? What about the guys that say they put > in all stainless steel valves and name brand names? Would going through > the expense of putting in all new springs although some test ok have any > merit? > > What other "quality" would you build in for reliability and longevity or > efficiency? > > Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild -what would you have done and why?
I am still trying to figure out which builder I want to go with on my 396/402. I am tempted to go with doing as much as I can at home, but the reliability of a local builder that does it all the time and has all the special tools sounds good, still I won't learn as much. In any case, I went into a local speed shop today to talk to them. I was given a tour. They are mostly a MOPAR shop, but build Chevy's and Fo**'s as well. He showed me how they were building a 64 wedge engine with a dual offset quads ..sweet! And a Chevy 560 racing engine in there made my Big Block look puny. The guy showed me more huge machines than I knew existed in a machine shop. Many of them computer controlled. Looks like a lot of them were acquired in the second half of the 90's. What he said to me sounded pretty good ...the only thing I might have to do is reign back how much HP he builds into it, as I hope to drive this thing long distances and I want to be able to pass gas stations as well as "rice rockets". I mean, I'd hate to have a Rustang laugh at me (I know, I know ...some of the new ones can really fly).s have to have a little performance if I ever need it... But at the same time, there is a limit to what's "logical" for driving it on long trips. Still I guess many a 502 with 502 HP are driven on ling trips? I heard once that you don't want valve guides re-knurled. Get new ones. Anyone have any knowledge there? What about the guys that say they put in all stainless steel valves and name brand names? Would going through the expense of putting in all new springs although some test ok have any merit? Any particular brand bearings for reliability? Why? What other "quality" would you build in for reliability and longevity or efficiency? I've never owned a big block before...never even driven one. Maybe I'll get this big block curiosity out of my system and build a 350 for it later. Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
