Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
There is always a lot of debate on how to prep the inside of replacement panels and the metal on the skeletal structure of the body that you exposed when you removed the panel. The simple truth is that these cars have lasted 40-45 years with nothing applied to these areas. Not to mention they were daily drivers for a number of these years. The only rust we find is in areas of high moisture. We as car lovers are going to baby these cars for the rest of their lives so they will never see the neglect they saw the first part of their lives. Some of these panels are electroplated black. Take a rag with lacquer thinner on it and wipe the panel. If the rags not black it's electroplated. In this case leave it. It's the best prep you can get. If the rags black remove it and, for best results, spray with epoxy primer. If you prime with anything else you must top coat because it will draw moisture. In reality the black coating from the factory weather electroplated or cheap black paint is better than what the general put on them (nothing). Now with all this said, I remove all factory coatings and epoxy prime the whole replacement panel. I have found rust under this black coating many times (even when electroplated). - Original Message - From: Josh Campbell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 6:55 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL What I normally do is hit the backside of a panel with 80, 120, and finally 220. Blow it off and wipe it with a little prep solvent then spraybomb the heck out of it, yes grind back about 3 inches and spray weld-through primer on the backside. Also do the new panel the same, that black sealer primer won't last forever!! If your haven't noticed I like to try to keep from having to come back in the future Josh Campbell 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 71 Malibu (FOR SALE) You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag you down to their level beat you with experience. --- On Mon, 11/15/10, Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com wrote: From: Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Monday, November 15, 2010, 4:17 PM What prep work is necessary before I cut install a reproduction patch panel?I'm thinking that I should at least prime the backside before I install it. So before I do, seems like I ought to wash it down - WITH WHAT? and then go over it once with 80 or 120 grit sander. Would treating the bare metal with some type of ospho metal prep HELP? OR HINDER? I know that I will need to remove the primer from the immediate area where I will be welding, how far should I strip it back? I do have weld-thru primer for the stripped areas. Thanx again. On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Johann Grobler johann.grob...@absamail.co.za wrote: Hullo Rick, You touched on the Golden Word, Proficiency Just take it slowly. Johann W Grobler Retired - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one time use. I'll investigate.And I know that a butt weld is preferred but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer quarter I'll be more proficient. On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell countryroad...@yahoo.com wrote: This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt weld my panels for the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a new place for rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to lap weld, lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes to plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet. But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the patch over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you are also cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to do is clamp and butt weld the panels back
Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
What prep work is necessary before I cut install a reproduction patch panel?I'm thinking that I should at least prime the backside before I install it. So before I do, seems like I ought to wash it down - WITH WHAT? and then go over it once with 80 or 120 grit sander. Would treating the bare metal with some type of ospho metal prep HELP? OR HINDER? I know that I will need to remove the primer from the immediate area where I will be welding, how far should I strip it back? I do have weld-thru primer for the stripped areas. Thanx again. On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Johann Grobler johann.grob...@absamail.co.za wrote: Hullo Rick, You touched on the Golden Word, Proficiency Just take it slowly. Johann W Grobler Retired - Original Message - *From:* Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Sent:* Sunday, November 14, 2010 1:55 AM *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one time use. I'll investigate.And I know that a butt weld is preferred but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer quarter I'll be more proficient. On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell countryroad...@yahoo.comwrote: This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt weld my panels for the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a new place for rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to lap weld, lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes to plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet. But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the patch over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you are also cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to do is clamp and butt weld the panels back together. You should have no problem welding at the trim line that you want to use and like you said the trim can help hide any faults, but if you work at it you can get it dang near perfect!!! As for the spot welds I use a 5/16 - 1/4 Rota Broach, its pretty much like a spot weld cutter I bought mine from Snap On a few years ago, Blair also makes them. But in a pinch you can drill a pilot hole or just use a punch to center it up. Hope this helps. *Josh Campbell* 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 71 Malibu (still FOR SALE) You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag you down to their level beat you with experience. --- On *Fri, 11/12/10, Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com* wrote: From: Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com Subject: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Friday, November 12, 2010, 2:29 PM This will probably be the first of many messages as I attempt to repair this http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1865 . I have a patch panel that goes as high as the tape. I am cutting off the entire length because the inner panel is rusted also and there is no way that I would be able to deal with that thru the holes I have cut now. First question - Where should I cut the panel. I'm thinking (dangerous) that I only need to go as high as the body line located just below the trim rivets.I like that area because if I do a less than perfect job, it will be partially hidden by the trim. Second question ( or statement) - I am going to flange and overlap the top seam. Should the new panel lie over the original or should the new panel be tucked under the original?Does it matter? I can get to the entire backside of that seam thru the access panel in the bed and should be able to seam seal it pretty well. Third - any hints/tips on drilling out the spot welds along the bottom? I bought a special drill for them but my first attempt resulted in the bit walking. Should I drill a small pilot hole? Thats all for today. Thanx Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
Use weld thru primer. In a message dated 11/15/2010 4:18:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ric...@gmail.com writes: What prep work is necessary before I cut install a reproduction patch panel?I'm thinking that I should at least prime the backside before I install it. So before I do, seems like I ought to wash it down - WITH WHAT? and then go over it once with 80 or 120 grit sander. Would treating the bare metal with some type of ospho metal prep HELP? OR HINDER? I know that I will need to remove the primer from the immediate area where I will be welding, how far should I strip it back? I do have weld-thru primer for the stripped areas. Thanx again. On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Johann Grobler _johann.grob...@absamail.co.za_ (mailto:johann.grob...@absamail.co.za) wrote: Hullo Rick, You touched on the Golden Word, Proficiency Just take it slowly. Johann W Grobler Retired - Original Message - From: _Rick Schaefer_ (mailto:ric...@gmail.com) To: _The Chevelle Mailing List_ (mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net) Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one time use. I'll investigate. And I know that a butt weld is preferred but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer quarter I'll be more proficient. On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell _countryroad...@yahoo.com_ (mailto:countryroad...@yahoo.com) wrote: This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt weld my panels for the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a new place for rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to lap weld, lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes to plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet. But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the patch over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you are also cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to do is clamp and butt weld the panels back together. You should have no problem welding at the trim line that you want to use and like you said the trim can help hide any faults, but if you work at it you can get it dang near perfect!!! As for the spot welds I use a 5/16 - 1/4 Rota Broach, its pretty much like a spot weld cutter I bought mine from Snap On a few years ago, Blair also makes them. But in a pinch you can drill a pilot hole or just use a punch to center it up. Hope this helps. Josh Campbell 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 71 Malibu (still FOR SALE) You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag you down to their level beat you with experience. --- On Fri, 11/12/10, Rick Schaefer _ric...@gmail.com_ (mailto:ric...@gmail.com) wrote: From: Rick Schaefer _ric...@gmail.com_ (mailto:ric...@gmail.com) Subject: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair To: The Chevelle Mailing List _chevelle-l...@chevelles.net_ (mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net) Date: Friday, November 12, 2010, 2:29 PM This will probably be the first of many messages as I attempt to repair this _http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1865_ (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1865) . I have a patch panel that goes as high as the tape. I am cutting off the entire length because the inner panel is rusted also and there is no way that I would be able to deal with that thru the holes I have cut now. First question - Where should I cut the panel. I'm thinking (dangerous) that I only need to go as high as the body line located just below the trim rivets.I like that area because if I do a less than perfect job, it will be partially hidden by the trim. Second question ( or statement) - I am going to flange and overlap the top seam. Should the new panel lie over the original or should the new panel be tucked under the original?Does it matter? I can get to the entire backside of that seam thru the access panel in the bed and should be able to seam seal it pretty well. Third - any hints/tips on drilling out the spot welds along the bottom? I bought a special drill for them but my first attempt resulted in the bit walking. Should I drill a
Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
What I normally do is hit the backside of a panel with 80, 120, and finally 220. Blow it off and wipe it with a little prep solvent then spraybomb the heck out of it, yes grind back about 3 inches and spray weld-through primer on the backside. Also do the new panel the same, that black sealer primer won't last forever!! If your haven't noticed I like to try to keep from having to come back in the future Josh Campbell66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)71 Malibu (FOR SALE) You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag you down to their level beat you with experience. --- On Mon, 11/15/10, Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com wrote: From: Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Monday, November 15, 2010, 4:17 PM What prep work is necessary before I cut install a reproduction patch panel? I'm thinking that I should at least prime the backside before I install it. So before I do, seems like I ought to wash it down - WITH WHAT? and then go over it once with 80 or 120 grit sander. Would treating the bare metal with some type of ospho metal prep HELP? OR HINDER? I know that I will need to remove the primer from the immediate area where I will be welding, how far should I strip it back? I do have weld-thru primer for the stripped areas. Thanx again. On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Johann Grobler johann.grob...@absamail.co.za wrote: Hullo Rick, You touched on the Golden Word, Proficiency Just take it slowly. Johann W Grobler Retired - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one time use. I'll investigate. And I know that a butt weld is preferred but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer quarter I'll be more proficient. On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell countryroad...@yahoo.com wrote: This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt weld my panels for the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a new place for rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to lap weld, lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes to plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet. But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the patch over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you are also cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to do is clamp and butt weld the panels back together. You should have no problem welding at the trim line that you want to use and like you said the trim can help hide any faults, but if you work at it you can get it dang near perfect!!! As for the spot welds I use a 5/16 - 1/4 Rota Broach, its pretty much like a spot weld cutter I bought mine from Snap On a few years ago, Blair also makes them. But in a pinch you can drill a pilot hole or just use a punch to center it up. Hope this helps. Josh Campbell 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 71 Malibu (still FOR SALE) You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag you down to their level beat you with experience. --- On Fri, 11/12/10, Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com wrote: From: Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com Subject: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Friday, November 12, 2010, 2:29 PM This will probably be the first of many messages as I attempt to repair this http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1865 . I have a patch panel that goes as high as the tape. I am cutting off the entire length because the inner panel is rusted also and there is no way that I would be able to deal with that thru the holes I have cut now. First question - Where should I cut the panel. I'm thinking (dangerous) that I only need to go as high as the body line located just below the trim rivets. I like that area because if I do a less than perfect job, it will be partially hidden by the trim. Second question ( or statement) - I am going
