Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
That's a great idea! I had that done years ago with a, um..Japanese vehicle, and it showed exactly where the problem was. Rich -Original Message- From: Gene Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 23, 2005 2:38 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject You might take it somewhere and have them check it with dye and a black light. Gene - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject Thanks for the advice. No additive for the engine. I didn't take it too the dealer YET. But probably will eventually. Larry Williams 65 SS 427 mike f wrote: What does the Acura Dealer say? --- Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
The shop owner wants to do the dye/black test at the next visit. I will let him try. Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's a great idea! I had that done years ago with a, um..Japanese vehicle, and it showed exactly where the problem was. Rich -Original Message- From: Gene Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 23, 2005 2:38 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject You might take it somewhere and have them check it with dye and a black light. Gene - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject Thanks for the advice. No additive for the engine. I didn't take it too the dealer YET. But probably will eventually. Larry Williams 65 SS 427 mike f wrote: What does the Acura Dealer say? --- Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com
RE: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
Sounds like your mechanic likes the band-aid approach. What is retorquing the heads supposed to do? Does it mean that he checked the torque or that he loosened all the bolts and retightened them? Unfortunately neither of these would fix a blown head gasket anyway, and putting in an additive is not really fixing the problem. If you really think it's a blown head gasket, he should try changing it. The thing about putting the dye in the oil is useful if you can't tell where the oil is coming from. I have a feeling that the additive will not be a permanent solution. John Nasta
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
Thanks for the advice. No additive for the engine. I didn't take it too the dealer YET. But probably will eventually. Larry Williams 65 SS 427 mike f wrote: What does the Acura Dealer say? --- Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
You might take it somewhere and have them check it with dye and a black light. Gene - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject Thanks for the advice. No additive for the engine. I didn't take it too the dealer YET. But probably will eventually. Larry Williams 65 SS 427 mike f wrote: What does the Acura Dealer say? --- Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
What does the Acura Dealer say? --- Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
Not in a gazillion years. The shop owner is out of ideas alright. Now his big idea is to avoid fixing his mistake...at your expense. - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: David Hillberry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 11:19 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
No way. Either it will soften the seals or gum up your oil passages. I think that if he works on it again, I would make him show me what he was doing to fix it - then I would change oil immediately and find some place to test it to make sure he didn't add anything while you weren't looking! Keith - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: David Hillberry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 11:19 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
I agree. Any additive in any fluid is merely a band aid to temporarily cover the real problem. The additives usually lead to secondary problems like Keith stated. Ron M. - Original Message - From: KW To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject No way.Either it will soften the seals or gum up your oil passages.I think that if he works on it again, I would make him show me what he was doing to fix it - then I would change oil immediately and find some place to test it to make sure he didn't add anything while you weren't looking!Keith- Original Message - From: "Larry Williams" [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: "Chevelle List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netCc: "David Hillberry" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 11:19 AMSubject: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off SubjectI had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower engine. The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. Would you guys try this? Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
I ran 4.10's for a decade..no fun on the expressway but fun cruising. Stepped up to a 4.33 for 2 years before I came to my senses. I run 3.73's with 29 tall MT tires and still wish I had less gear. Walt http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sunday, January 9, 2005 3:02 am Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE There's always one who will disagree. g I would not run 4.10's on the highway without an overdrive trans. Tom,if your engine was only turning 3500 at 75mph,you either had a bad tach or some very tall rear tires. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
There's always one who will disagree. g I would not run 4.10's on the highway without an overdrive trans. Tom,if your engine was only turning 3500 at 75mph,you either had a bad tach or some very tall rear tires. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH Tom, There's no way you can accomplish this with a 350 or 400 turbo. What kind of trans were you running in the 70? Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
beautiful 69! GiorgioCaxias do Sul - RS - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 6:02 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE There's always one who will disagree. g I would not run 4.10's on the highway without an overdrive trans. Tom,if your engine was only turning 3500 at 75mph,you either had a bad tach or some very tall rear tires. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
Tom, I will agree withClint. beauvelle From: Souza [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 12:04:29 -0200 beautiful 69! Giorgio Caxias do Sul - RS - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 6:02 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE There's always one who will disagree. g I would not run 4.10's on the highway without an overdrive trans. Tom,if your engine was only turning 3500 at 75mph,you either had a bad tach or some very tall rear tires. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom _ Take charge with a pop-up guard built on patented Microsoft® SmartScreen Technology http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-capage=byoa/premxAPID=1994DI=1034SU=http://hotmail.com/encaHL=Market_MSNIS_Taglines Start enjoying all the benefits of MSN® Premium right now and get the first two months FREE*.
RE: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
It could be done with the right wheel/tire size. A 265x60x17 w/4.10s should be turning right at 3500-3600 RPMs at 75 (given no trans slippage). However, simply swapping to a 700R4 would bring that down to 2500. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Facts CD in progress ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
You must have enormous rear tires to run 75MPH at 3500 RPMs with 4.10s. I have 255-60-15 tires on my 3.55 geared rearend (no OD) and Im turning close to 3500 to run 75 MPH. I checked my speed with my GPS. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:22 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE In a message dated 1/8/2005 8:21:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Nick, Give some serious thought to changing rear gears. A 4.11 is gonna be miserable at any kind of sustanded highway speeds. I've done the tour three times and twice in my 65 Elky with 3.08s. I drove it day in and out at above 3500 RPM. At that RPM you will be making less than fifty MPH. Mike Holleman I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
Nick, Give some serious thought to changing rear gears. A 4.11 is gonna be miserable at any kind of sustanded highway speeds. I've done the tour three times and twice in my 65 Elky with 3.08s. I drove it day in and out at above 3500 RPM. At that RPM you will be making less than fifty MPH. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 3:14 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE I AM THINKING OF GOING ON HOT ROD TOUR TO TENN. THAN STAYING FOR THE CHEVELLE SHOW. THIS IS MY FIRST TRIP LIKE THIS AND ANY HELP ON WHAT TO TAKE AND DO WOULD BE GREATLY HELPFUL. I AM TAKING A 68 CHEVELLE 350 ENG. 350 TRANS. AND 411 GEARS. RIGHT NOW I AM HAVING ELECT. TROUBLE IT RUNS GREAT BUT IF IT SIT FOR 2 DAYS THE BATTERY IS DEAD BRAND NEW BATTERY. THANK YOU FOR ANY AND ALL ASSISTANCE NICK FROM CLEVELAND OHIO
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
can be some problem with the alternator. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 6:14 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE I AM THINKING OF GOING ON HOT ROD TOUR TO TENN. THAN STAYING FOR THE CHEVELLE SHOW. THIS IS MY FIRST TRIP LIKE THIS AND ANY HELP ON WHAT TO TAKE AND DO WOULD BE GREATLY HELPFUL. I AM TAKING A 68 CHEVELLE 350 ENG. 350 TRANS. AND 411 GEARS. RIGHT NOW I AM HAVING ELECT. TROUBLE IT RUNS GREAT BUT IF IT SIT FOR 2 DAYS THE BATTERY IS DEAD BRAND NEW BATTERY. THANK YOU FOR ANY AND ALL ASSISTANCE NICK FROM CLEVELAND OHIO
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
At 08:21 AM 1/8/2005, Mike Holleman wrote: Nick, Give some serious thought to changing rear gears. A 4.11 is gonna be miserable at any kind of sustanded highway speeds. I've done the tour three times and twice in my 65 Elky with 3.08s. I drove it day in and out at above 3500 RPM. At that RPM you will be making less than fifty MPH. Mike Holleman - My 68 ( a 396 with 2 big 4 barrels sitting on top) also has 4.11's.. And I can tell you I would NOT even think of doing the Power Tour ... Honest I set this car up for driving in and around town...plus almost weekly runs down the 1/4 mile and it WORKSbut just would not for any touring like driving There is a GREAT Saturday Night Cruise in place in a town 30 some miles away that requires that I drive on the interstate to get to... This cruise in attracts 400 cars almost every week and I really enjoy going... SORRY but running 30 miles at anything close to 65 mph is just NOT FUNeven slowing down to 55 only adds to the frustration So I usually take another car The Power Tour would just NOT be enjoyable for me IF I had to worry about the car every minute... Bob Griffiths
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
check to see if you have a draw on the battery then start it then take off the positive post if it remains running the alt is fine, if you have a bad one then then you should replace, but charge your battery before you try to run, ohh the 411 gear not good to run all day cruise, if it dont drain your wallet from the gas , then it might drain it when you have to replace the engine, i always keep a spare rearend , with a good road gear for the long trips. i maybe wrong with the small block but i know a big block cant take te rpms all day without doning damage, good luck
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
I have a question for anyone on the list that can help me ? I went to look at a motor today (454). I don't have the right book to check the cast # on the block , as follows # 361959 and what looked like the letter Punder it but at 90 degree angle. other markings GM T 12 . THANK YOU JC - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 11:21 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE check to see if you have a draw on the battery then start it then take off the positive post if it remains running the alt is fine, if you have a bad one then then you should replace, but charge your battery before you try to run, ohh the 411 gear not good to run all day cruise, if it dont drain your wallet from the gas , then it might drain it when you have to replace the engine, i always keep a spare rearend , with a good road gear for the long trips. i maybe wrong with the small block but i know a big block cant take te rpms all day without doning damage, good luck
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE*
Nick, Remove your neg battery cable from the battery terminal and place a test light between the cable end and the neg terminal on your battery. If there is a drain on the battery the light will light up. At this point start removeing fuses one at a time from the fuse block until the light goes out. This will let you know what circuit the drain is comming from. Rocky --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I AM THINKING OF GOING ON HOT ROD TOUR TO TENN. THAN STAYING FOR THE CHEVELLE SHOW. THIS IS MY FIRST TRIP LIKE THIS AND ANY HELP ON WHAT TO TAKE AND DO WOULD BE GREATLY HELPFUL. I AM TAKING A 68 CHEVELLE 350 ENG. 350 TRANS. AND 411 GEARS. RIGHT NOW I AM HAVING ELECT. TROUBLE IT RUNS GREAT BUT IF IT SIT FOR 2 DAYS THE BATTERY IS DEAD BRAND NEW BATTERY. THANK YOU FOR ANY AND ALL ASSISTANCE NICK FROM CLEVELAND OHIO __ Do you Yahoo!? All your favorites on one personal page Try My Yahoo! http://my.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE*
Very good Rocky ! Tip of the week...
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
James I found this at www.mortec.com 361959.454...73-90...2 or 4 bolt Someone who knows will need to explain the P On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 14:57:00 -0500, James Colgan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a question for anyone on the list that can help me ? I went to look at a motor today (454). I don't have the right book to check the cast # on the block , as follows # 361959 and what looked like the letter P under it but at 90 degree angle. other markings GM T 12 . THANK YOU JC - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 11:21 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE check to see if you have a draw on the battery then start it then take off the positive post if it remains running the alt is fine, if you have a bad one then then you should replace, but charge your battery before you try to run, ohh the 411 gear not good to run all day cruise, if it dont drain your wallet from the gas , then it might drain it when you have to replace the engine, i always keep a spare rearend , with a good road gear for the long trips. i maybe wrong with the small block but i know a big block cant take te rpms all day without doning damage, good luck -- Rick Schaefer
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
Thanks Rick. I bought the motor in good faith ?,so soon I will find out 2 bolt 4 bolt and what the bottom end looks like. thanks again ,Jimmy - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 9:06 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE James I found this at www.mortec.com 361959.454...73-90...2 or 4 bolt Someone who knows will need to explain the P On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 14:57:00 -0500, James Colgan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a question for anyone on the list that can help me ? I went to look at a motor today (454). I don't have the right book to check the cast # on the block , as follows # 361959 and what looked like the letter P under it but at 90 degree angle. other markings GM T 12 . THANK YOU JC - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 11:21 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE check to see if you have a draw on the battery then start it then take off the positive post if it remains running the alt is fine, if you have a bad one then then you should replace, but charge your battery before you try to run, ohh the 411 gear not good to run all day cruise, if it dont drain your wallet from the gas , then it might drain it when you have to replace the engine, i always keep a spare rearend , with a good road gear for the long trips. i maybe wrong with the small block but i know a big block cant take te rpms all day without doning damage, good luck -- Rick Schaefer
Re: [Chevelle-list] ADVICE
In a message dated 1/8/2005 8:21:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Nick, Give some serious thought to changing rear gears. A 4.11 is gonna be miserable at any kind of sustanded highway speeds. I've done the tour three times and twice in my 65 Elky with 3.08s. I drove it day in and out at above 3500 RPM. At that RPM you will be making less than fifty MPH. Mike Holleman I disagree. I was running 4.10's in my 70 for the last 5 years and at 3500 RPM's the car ran 75 MPH. I never had a problem with the 4.10's on the highway. The car had a sweet spot between 3500 and 4000 RPMs and it ran great. It never overheated and got 15 MPG. My 69 with a 307/PG and 2.73's gets worse gas mileage than the 500 HP big block in the 70. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust long post
Rodney, On advise from all the guys on the list I got the Flowmaster A-body kit from Summit and I think it was around $285. Thats what I call great value ! All you have to do is get a couple of 45deg bends if you have shorties or manifolds and put it under the car and weld it, if you have full lenght headers I think that the parts supplied are ok. If your car is lowered (my car is so low that the headers scratched all the time so I had to get shorties) a lot you will have to cut-weld-cut- weld to sew the system around the trans crossmember up to the floor and attach it to the shorties or manifolds. If you dont have a welder or an acetylene torch a muffler shop can sure make those parts for you, to keep costs down you could install the system yourself and drive to the shop with open headers so they just have to make the front pipes. If youre going to weld yourslf with a torch you will find that the flowmaster tubes are hard to weld, probably because of the coating. My advice is, dont use the supplied clamps as they are going to crimp the tubing and you will never be able to get the parts abart again. I like to zinc spray the tubing after welding and it wont burn off, it will get flat grey after some time though. André Well, before I start calling around, I'd like to hear some expeirence from people who have done this already. First, what's a reasonable price range for 2.5 dual exhaust with 40 s eries Flowmaster's? I'm thinking around $300. Am I dreaming? Is this too optimistic? Is it better to buy a kit and take it to the muffler shop to be instal led or should I buy everything through the shop? Is there anything I should ask or be aware of when calling around? Th anks for any help! One more thing.. can anyone recommend a muffler shop in Phoenix? Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust
The American Thunder kit (from headers on back) is $286 for rear exit (FLO-17119) and $315 side exit (FLO-17120) from Summit but it has 30 series - at least mine did. Some shops tend to charge a bit more labor if you bring your own pieces since they're not making a profit on the parts. Except for mating the headers to the front pipe though, you can install the rest of it yourself. I did it using a small piece of pipe to slip over the header reducer and front header pipe, clamped them temporarily till I drove to a muffler shop and had them welded. The hardest parts were getting the old exhaust off and getting the H pipe cut and installed correctly laying on my back. If I had to do again (which I may on my 67 Elky soon), I'd let the shop do it. Back is getting too bad to be laying on the concrete for a few hours. :*) I have a short .wav file of them at http://www.dalesplace.com/images/chevelle/more_pics/p852.wav Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold 67 SS/67 Elky http://www.dalesplace.com http://www.team67.com http://www.midwestchevelles.com Subject: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust Well, before I start calling around, I'd like to hear some expeirence from people who have done this already. First, what's a reasonable price range for 2.5 dual exhaust with 40 series Flowmaster's? I'm thinking around $300. Am I dreaming? Is this too optimistic? Is it better to buy a kit and take it to the muffler shop to be installed or should I buy everything through the shop? Is there anything I should ask or be aware of when calling around? Thanks for any help! One more thing.. can anyone recommend a muffler shop in Phoenix? Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust
I have the Flowmaster American Thunder setup on my 70 along with the 40 series. The pipe kit was $200, the Mufflers were$120, and the OEM SS tips were $80, Headers were $210 total $610. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust
Rodney I just called the local Meineke Shop. I was quoted between 300 and 400 complete for 2.5 and Flowmasters. The price depended on which mufflers I wanted to go with. Good Luck Wayne 66 Malibu -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rodney. Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 1:21 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust Well, before I start calling around, I'd like to hear some expeirence from people who have done this already. First, what's a reasonable price range for 2.5 dual exhaust with 40 series Flowmaster's? I'm thinking around $300. Am I dreaming? Is this too optimistic? Is it better to buy a kit and take it to the muffler shop to be installed or should I buy everything through the shop? Is there anything I should ask or be aware of when calling around? Thanks for any help! One more thing.. can anyone recommend a muffler shop in Phoenix? Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust
These guys are in Chandler. I haven't used them myself yet, but they're supposed to be pretty good. ADS (Automotive Diagnostic Specialties) (480) 961-8704 - Original Message - From: Rodney. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 10:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust Well, before I start calling around, I'd like to hear some expeirence from people who have done this already. First, what's a reasonable price range for 2.5 dual exhaust with 40 series Flowmaster's? I'm thinking around $300. Am I dreaming? Is this too optimistic? Is it better to buy a kit and take it to the muffler shop to be installed or should I buy everything through the shop? Is there anything I should ask or be aware of when calling around? Thanks for any help! One more thing.. can anyone recommend a muffler shop in Phoenix? Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust
Rodney, If you decide not to go with a pre-made kit, I would suggest Mighty Muf'ler in North Phoenix located at 10032 N. Cave Creek, (602) 944-5210. The guy that owns the shop also does most of the custom work and his prices are reasonable. cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9 ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: Rodney. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 10:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] advice on exhaust Well, before I start calling around, I'd like to hear some expeirence from people who have done this already. First, what's a reasonable price range for 2.5 dual exhaust with 40 series Flowmaster's? I'm thinking around $300. Am I dreaming? Is this too optimistic? Is it better to buy a kit and take it to the muffler shop to be installed or should I buy everything through the shop? Is there anything I should ask or be aware of when calling around? Thanks for any help! One more thing.. can anyone recommend a muffler shop in Phoenix? Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
21K , I am not a 70type guy but IMHO an undocumented car with NOM SB! and other sortcoming you made mention of . I would walk . just my .02 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 12:13 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed In a message dated 6/26/02 9:04:46 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't know if I'd pass on it, I'd just get more info and deal down to match the equipment. How much are they asking? 21K - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
The guy sounds like a hammer mechanic to me. Run from this one, don't walk...RUN. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 6/26/02 11:13:11 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Sounds like to me they are willing to cut corners and misrepresent certain items. If this is the case, who knows what else is wrong with the car that they're just not gonna mention unless you notice it. Just my $0.02 Yeah, I didn't get the feeling that he was telling me everything. Especially when I popped the hood and found a big mess. Rust running down the master cylinder. Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
I agree with Dale. 396guy wrote: If he found the build sheet and you could verify it with the VIN, and from the description, turned the 21K around to 12Kmaybe. Better stuff out there I think even if you had to go to AZ or NM to find one. Dale -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 6:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed In a message dated 6/26/02 1:54:02 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: For an undocumented, used to be a 454, now a 350, one of a kind hidden cowl induction hooded car.ya, I'd pass also. Now if he were to come up with a build sheet for an LS5, would it be...never mind, now that I think of it, I want a finished or (close to finished) car! Thanks to all for your help, it's really appreciated! Mark Los Angeles - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
I think the guy is trying to make a quick buck at someone else's expense. Awful lot of guys that way, they fix it good enough to fool some unsuspecting person and make some quick cash. I'd pass too. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: PASS that car isn't worth 10 k Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
Sounds like the guy wants to take you for a ride!!! and it isn't in a 70 Chevelle lol KenD 72 HeavyChevyChevelle
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
I know Jay has a lot of cars, but has anyone seen all of them? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 6/26/02 6:56:12 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I thought Southern California was home to ALL the good cars. The problem is they are sitting in Jay Leno's garage/warehouse. Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
Mark: I don't think so as just a few months ago there was a nice 71 SS 454 car here for 9500. It was far from mint but was all there and numbers correct. as far as I'm concerned he may as well sell it with no motor and it would be worth just about the same. He is pricing it right up there with a numbers matching car. I'm sure most in here would agree at 21 k it is way overpriced. Larry (z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
Probably only his caretaker and insurance agent. LOL I saw an episode on My Classic Car where he took Dennis Gage on a ride in a Stanley Steamer. Jay has at least one good sized warehouse full of cars and shop equipment. I'll bet very few people have ever seen all his cars. I'm sure he has several being worked on and restored that we never get to see on TV. As far as Dennis Gage goes, I really wanna cut that queer mustache off his facebad! Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
I can't say I wouldn't do the same if I had his kind of money. Well we can dream anyway. 396guy wrote: Probably only his caretaker and insurance agent. LOL I saw an episode on My Classic Car where he took Dennis Gage on a ride in a Stanley Steamer. Jay has at least one good sized warehouse full of cars and shop equipment. Dale -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul O'Brien Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 9:12 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed I know Jay has a lot of cars, but has anyone seen all of them? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 6/26/02 6:56:12 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I thought Southern California was home to ALL the good cars. The problem is they are sitting in Jay Leno's garage/warehouse. Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
I agree, but I'd like to grab both sides and see if I can swing him around a few times first. As far as Dennis Gage goes, I really wanna cut that queer mustache off his facebad! Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Advice needed
OK, so yesterday, I drove the black Chevelle. I guess because of the 350 replacing the 454, it seems the front end is sitting high up in the air. Also, the steering feels pretty loose. The engine compartment is a mess and the car was sputtering and missing. No smoke though coming out of the exhaust. The current owner is looking for the build sheet. He says that if he finds it and it indicates an LS5, that you could buy an LS5 and have it stamped to match the numbers. And, he says that this is totally legal. Is this true? Seems at a minimum, unethical. It was kind of funny because he claimed it had a cowl induction hood. He was going to order cowl induction emblems to put on the hood. Only problem is that...no cowl induction, just a regular SS hood. So, looks like I have to pass on it. Whaddya think? Thanks, Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
I don't know if I'd pass on it, I'd just get more info and deal down to match the equipment. How much are they asking? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: OK, so yesterday, I drove the black Chevelle. I guess because of the 350 replacing the 454, it seems the front end is sitting high up in the air. Also, the steering feels pretty loose. The engine compartment is a mess and the car was sputtering and missing. No smoke though coming out of the exhaust. The current owner is looking for the build sheet. He says that if he finds it and it indicates an LS5, that you could buy an LS5 and have it stamped to match the numbers. And, he says that this is totally legal. Is this true? Seems at a minimum, unethical. It was kind of funny because he claimed it had a cowl induction hood. He was going to order cowl induction emblems to put on the hood. Only problem is that...no cowl induction, just a regular SS hood. So, looks like I have to pass on it. Whaddya think? Thanks, Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
In a message dated 6/26/02 9:04:46 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't know if I'd pass on it, I'd just get more info and deal down to match the equipment. How much are they asking? 21K - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
21? OUCH!!! They would need to do some fixin, or price droppin if they can't explain the loose front end, etc. You might be getting into something you won't be happy with. You don't want to get hosed. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 6/26/02 9:04:46 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't know if I'd pass on it, I'd just get more info and deal down to match the equipment. How much are they asking? 21K - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
Sounds like to me they are willing to cut corners and misrepresent certain items. If this is the case, who knows what else is wrong with the car that they're just not gonna mention unless you notice it. Just my $0.02 Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - Original Message - From: Paul O'Brien [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed 21? OUCH!!! They would need to do some fixin, or price droppin if they can't explain the loose front end, etc. You might be getting into something you won't be happy with. You don't want to get hosed. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 6/26/02 9:04:46 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't know if I'd pass on it, I'd just get more info and deal down to match the equipment. How much are they asking? 21K - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
OUCH... For an undocumented, used to be a 454, now a 350, one of a kind hidden cowl induction hooded car.ya, I'd pass also. Dan McIntosh 65 Malibu In a message dated 6/26/2002 9:26:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't know if I'd pass on it, I'd just get more info and deal down to match the equipment. How much are they asking? 21K -
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
In a message dated 6/26/02 9:47:31 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: You might be getting into something you won't be happy with. You don't want to get hosed. That is for sure! He is putting a new top on it and replacing carpet, armrests, and tuning it up. But, it is a black car with no air and that is a problem living in L. A. Also, the 350 in the 454 is a problem too, so, I guess I'll have to pass. It's so tempting though because I haven't seen many in the area and I really would like to avoid traveling to the East Coast. ( nothing against it, just a time issue) Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
In a message dated 6/26/02 11:13:11 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Sounds like to me they are willing to cut corners and misrepresent certain items. If this is the case, who knows what else is wrong with the car that they're just not gonna mention unless you notice it. Just my $0.02 Yeah, I didn't get the feeling that he was telling me everything. Especially when I popped the hood and found a big mess. Rust running down the master cylinder. Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
In a message dated 6/26/02 1:54:02 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: For an undocumented, used to be a 454, now a 350, one of a kind hidden cowl induction hooded car.ya, I'd pass also. Now if he were to come up with a build sheet for an LS5, would it be...never mind, now that I think of it, I want a finished or (close to finished) car! Thanks to all for your help, it's really appreciated! Mark Los Angeles - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
If he found the build sheet and you could verify it with the VIN, and from the description, turned the 21K around to 12Kmaybe. Better stuff out there I think even if you had to go to AZ or NM to find one. Dale -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 6:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed In a message dated 6/26/02 1:54:02 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: For an undocumented, used to be a 454, now a 350, one of a kind hidden cowl induction hooded car.ya, I'd pass also. Now if he were to come up with a build sheet for an LS5, would it be...never mind, now that I think of it, I want a finished or (close to finished) car! Thanks to all for your help, it's really appreciated! Mark Los Angeles - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
i only have one word to say "PASS" Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
PASS that car isn't worth 10 k Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
In a message dated 6/26/02 5:09:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: PASS that car isn't worth 10 k OK, let's say he did find the build sheet and it is an LS5, would it be worth 12K then? I'm not going to buy it, just trying to get an idea as to what it's really worth. Mark
Re:Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Advice needed
Did you say 21K ? 2.1K sounds more realistic. You should be able to get a fully done LS5 for 21k. And yes you are right - VERY unethical. rick -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Advice needed Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 11:40:39 EDT OK, so yesterday, I drove the black Chevelle. I guess because of the 350 replacing the 454, it seems the front end is sitting high up in the air. Also, the steering feels pretty loose. The engine compartment is a mess and the car was sputtering and missing. No smoke though coming out of the exhaust. The current owner is looking for the build sheet. He says that if he finds it and it indicates an LS5, that you could buy an LS5 and have it stamped to match the numbers. And, he says that this is totally legal. Is this true? Seems at a minimum, unethical. It was kind of funny because he claimed it had a cowl induction hood. He was going to order cowl induction emblems to put on the hood. Only problem is that...no cowl induction, just a regular SS hood. So, looks like I have to pass on it. Whaddya think? Thanks, Mark - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re:Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Advice needed
In a message dated 6/26/02 6:50:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Did you say 21K ? 2.1K sounds more realistic. You should be able to get a fully done LS5 for 21k. And yes you are right - VERY unethical. Convertible??? - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice needed
Hi Mark... I wouldn't buy the car as an investment cause obviously the original numbers matching motor is long gone. The original thing is kinda a toss up. 4 years ago I had an original 70 Z28 with the LT-1 and a muncie. 45,000 original miles... all original parts... starter, alt, rear, etc. Only thing missing were the original tires. The hiccup was the motor threw a rod 6 months after the original owner bought it. So it had a 71 date coded block with no other numbers casted in it that was put in by GM under warranty. I even had the receipt for that work. Now some guys looked at it and said... it isn't original doesn't have the numbers matching motor. Other guys didn't care about the numbers or date codes on the misc parts, but just the engine, tranny, and rear. Then there were a few guys who felt with all the paper work and documentation that the car was darn near one of a kind. I mean there aren't too many no number gm replacement blocks around. The fellow who purchased it felt it was a very interesting twist to make this low mileage Z28 unique. The show circuit... well there are plenty of cars that are totally not stock and modified taking home awards... you just won't be in the category as an orginal stock class. Sorry for the long winded-ness, but I think this story shows "original" is different for every collector. Some guys want proof that all the metal is even original. All and all... buy the car cause you like it! Awards come for a ton of different classes if that is your goal. If a pure original car is your goal... will just an LS5 spec 454 do... or are you a numbers matching kinda guy. Hope this gives you a bit to chew on... good luck w/ your decision. Mikey So, I found a Chevelle SS that is listed as an LS5. The original color isblue. But, it currently has a 350 and was repainted black. How would thiscar fare at shows? How would these changes effect the value of this car?Could you put in an LS5 and would that increase the value or would it matterbecause it wouldn't be the original engine? And is not having the originalcolor a problem?Thanks to all for all your help,Mark-To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.htmlTo start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice on SS dash restoration
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I took the 70 SS instrument cluster apart to clean it as well. The best thing to use is compressed air cans. DO NOT TOUCH the numbers on the faces of the gauges, they will smear, wipe off, plus the acidity of your hands will discolor the face in time. Also DO NOT wipe the plastic cover as it will scratch. The gauges come out by simply unscrewing them from the back of the housing. i messed up and wiped the front of the plexiglass and now its scratched so I have to get a new one. They are finally available. It will work out good anyway since I want to convert it from idiot lights to gauges which are also now available from Ground Up. Good Luck. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Advice on SS dash restoration
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Galen, My 1966 has screws holding the instrument cluster together. Once you get it out of the dash just take the screws out and it comes apart. The lens will be separated from the rest. Be VERY careful in trying to clean the dial. The numbers etc. will wipe off or smear at the slightest touch. I used a very soft brush and a 10 - 15 lb. pressure of air to clean mine which was very dusty. Yours may be another story. Just don't touch the numbers. Good luck. George in sunny Phoenix --- Galen and Melissa Love wrote: I'm trying to restore a 70-72 SS instrument cluster and dash. Does anyone have any good advice on doing so? One specific problem I have right now There is a lot of dust behind the plastic lens. Does anyone know the proper way to remove the plastic lens to clean it and clean the guages behind it? It looks like the plastic studs on the instrument cluster housing were melted at the factory to form a mushroom head which holds the lens on. Is there a good way to remove it and reinstall it? Thanks for your advice, Galen -- CLick on next line to: MAILTO:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Netzone Goodnet address CLOSED - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
