Re: Stus-List Choppy mooring tips

[Russ & Melody]

Hi James,

Another source for the "chonking" sound is up & down movement of the 
rudder. I get this on some reaches and downwind legs with a short 
steep swell. It took me awhile before I found the rudder stock moving 
up & down by about 3/8". My fix will be to adjusted the stop collar 
below the quadrant. I probably have some wear in the plastic washer 
that lives between the collar and the top of the rudder shaft log.


Cheers, Russ

At 07:27 AM 24/09/2012, you wrote:
All - wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and what they 
did or do to alleviate the stress to the rudder/quadrant etc.
We moor our C&C34 on the Hudson at pier 25 which typically has 3 ft 
swells rollin in caused by the ferry , cruise line and sightseeing 
traffic.  It is an ideal mooring as we live in downtown Manhattan 
but the boat she takes a pounding as you can imagine.


We have used a whole manor of techniques to avoid the 
"chonking"  from below, currently we use a bungy chord on the wheel 
to allow the rudder and qudrant to move and brake slowly.  It seems 
to work, wondering if there are unintended consequences in doing that.


Any hep advice very much appreciated.

James Montague  C&C 34


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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

[OldSteveH]

I would be interested to know what the keel shoe has done for others - pro
and con for performance and stability.
When I bought mine I heard of this and wondered if it would be a good
investment. 3 seasons later I'm happy with the boat and feel no urgency to
add the shoe. BTW we're not in a light wind area. We get just about
everything for conditions on west side of Georgian Bay.

Cheers,

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON



--

Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 21:16:29 -0300
From: dwight veinot 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Ed

Many owners of the 34 model have added a 500 pound keel shoe because the
boat is on the tender side.  If you sail in predominantly light wind area
you will love the boat.  Check out the stability diagram and the sailing
calculator on Stu's site under technical info for more information and boat
comparisons.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  


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Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

[Richard N. Bush]

David and all, I would like echo those sentiments; we thoroughly enjoyed 
meeting everyone and seeing the boats; Chris did a great job on the tours as 
well; 
I do have a question, would it be possible to get  copies of the photos which 
taken during the event? thanks again,


Richard ( and Kay and Mike)
1987 33-2
 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: David Risch 
To: Gary Russell ; cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Sep 24, 2012 7:30 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous


All,
Lady Di and I are now enjoying some quiet times in Block Island.  We too had a 
last meeting fun folks and reveling in the our chosen marque.   
I appreciate all the kind words andwant to thank many folks for their ready 
nd capable help; John Read, Robert Gallagher and Richard Walter.  
And, of course Rob.  I think he enjoyed "purging" with us all.
While our memories are fresh I would also like to put together a debrief as to 
hat we did well and what we can improve, potential venues, special events, etc. 
 

his would be a blueprint going forward to make it easier for those who want to 
tep up next time (there are those who want to jump in next time...right?...I 
ope...please?).
Feel free to email me your thoughts.  I will then compile them and distribute. 
gain.  Great times. Great company. Great memories.  And fabulous sailing.  
Corsair
981 40-2
 David F. Risch
401) 419-4650 cell
-Original Message-
rom: Gary Russell 
ate: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:05:02 
o: 
ubject: Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous
Per the directive, we went boldly home.  We saw gusts to 25 kts on the beam and 
peed over the water at warp 8.5 (9.3 over the bottom).  It was one of the most 
njoyable sails I can remember. We covered the 52 miles home in under 8 hours!   
ut the best part was meeting all the dedicated C&Cers and especially getting to 
alk to Rob Ball.  If you missed this one, you missed a good one.  Three cheers 
or Dave Risch...  He did a superb job!  I hope all had a safe and enjoyable 
rip home.  We did.  Let's do it again.

Gary
/V Expresso
ast Greenwich, RI

n Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 6:08 PM, Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com> > wrote:
Listers,

Greetings from Clinton, CT. We had the Enterprise screaming along at a steady 
arp 7.3 today -- then the current kicked in and we saw Warp 8.5.

My wife Ellen and I wanted to take a moment to thank David Risch for all of his 
ard work in putting this all together. In fact, he did such an amazing job, we 
hink David should be voted in to organize one of these every year (a little 
loser to New York may be nice).

It was great to meet Rob Ball, especially at the reception, to ask him all 
orts of questions about the 37+, especially on how a 40-footer got named a 37+ 
as well as the 36-foot 34+). But, just being at a place with others who share 
he affinity for the C&C line made the trip worth it on its own.

Hope everyone has a safe, fun, voyage home. And, I'll say it again, let's do 
his next year too.

In the meantime, as you continue on your voyages, please remember our Prime 
irective:

Wherever you may go, go boldly.


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
---
C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
---
Sent via iPad
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Re: Stus-List Stanchions and Lifelines

[Joel Aronson]

http://www.rei.com/product/474003/bluewater-titanspectra-runner-916

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 24, 2012, at 9:45 PM, Alex Giannelia  wrote:

I'm beginning to figure this out, I saw a few posts when I put "stanchion
grommets" on my browser, so I still want to know what "rounded loops" as my
inquiries on that led to jewelry



ALEX GIANNELIA





ALEX GIANNELIA



CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED

ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006

Toronto Ontario





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Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[Frederick G Street]

I believe Raymarine is running a $250 rebate on the e7 right now -- I don't 
know if it's in your price range, but that would be at or near the top of my 
list.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Sep 24, 2012, at 6:31 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

> I know...it is huge!  I feel that a 9" would be great but, they only make the 
> 7 or a 12 for a great price...I'm afraid if I went for the 7" i might feel I 
> want the 10...LOL
>  
> problem is there 10" is an $1800 touch screen.  i don't really need a touch 
> screen...hm
>  
> again, there is no rush on my part as I really don't need it for this 
> season...  that 7" might just be the ticket...
>  
> I could continue to use the existing fish finder and leave the old GPSmap as 
> a backup.

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Stus-List Stanchions and Lifelines

[Alex Giannelia]

I'm beginning to figure this out, I saw a few posts when I put "stanchion 
grommets" on my browser, so I still want to know what "rounded loops" as my 
inquiries on that led to jewelry



ALEX GIANNELIA


ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Stus-List old laptops

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Joe,

Why do you have SeaClear and OpenCPN on the same 
machine? (I do too but my reason is laziness, in 
not uninstalling SeaClear after I started using OpenCPN.)


I keep an old Dell with 'doze 98 in a locker as 
the "backup". It does fine with Nobeltec vr 4.. 
and a serial connection to a Garmin 126


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east Vancouver Island (on the left of Canada)

At 06:42 AM 24/09/2012, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_1073606396712942AEE54D9A960E45A713793F2AC5HQMB07baadssa_"

I use the 600s. They are 300 MHz machines that 
run Windows 98 fine and XP a little slow.
They are stripped down – no extra software, no 
office, no anti-virus, no games, no movies, no 
internet connection. They do navigation plus 
PSK31 (ham radio) and nothing else.
I have one hard drive with 98 and SeaClear and 
another one with XP and SeaClear+OpenCPN. I 
believe I sold one to someone on this list and 
it sat in Canadian customs for weeks.


Joe Della Barba – Coquina.

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody

Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 11:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0


What do you mean by "old"?

My boat machine is a Thinkpad T-42 and travels 
in a Pelican case. It was the carbon fibre gear to land on the race boat :)


Interesting, the second piece of carbon fibre 
gear to come onto the race boat was the skipper's knee brace!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east Vancouver Island

At 12:08 PM 21/09/2012, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_1073606396712942AEE54D9A960E45A713793F2A34HQMB07baadssa_"

I keep old IBM ThinkPads around for boat duty ;)


Joe Della Barba

From: 
cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
[ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street

Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

Really, when was the last time anyone saw a new 
laptop with a serial port?   :^)   Although I am 
a dyed-in-the-wool Mac guy, I keep an ancient 
HP/Compaq Windows XP machine around just because 
it has a real serial port on it...



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Sep 21, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:


Have you tried a laptop? Use the serial port and 
read the data directly to see what you have got.


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Re: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Joel Aronson]

rounded loops are just loops of webbing.  The grommets were there.  I
don't know where you can buy them.  Sorry!

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 24, 2012, at 8:58 PM, Alex Giannelia  wrote:

> Joel
>
> Thanks, but what are "rounded loops"? And where did you get the nylon 
> grommets?
>
>
>
> ALEX GIANNELIA
>
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Rounded Loops

[Alex Giannelia]

Sorry for my ignorance, but are these spliced thimbles?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Alex Giannelia]

Joel

Thanks, but what are "rounded loops"? And where did you get the nylon grommets?



ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

[dwight veinot]

Ed

Many owners of the 34 model have added a 500 pound keel shoe because the
boat is on the tender side.  If you sail in predominantly light wind area
you will love the boat.  Check out the stability diagram and the sailing
calculator on Stu's site under technical info for more information and boat
comparisons.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of elev...@grayinsco.com
Sent: September 24, 2012 12:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

 

The bigger/newer boat bug has bitten. I am about to make an offer on a 1981
C&C 34. I would appreciate any comments as to any particular trouble spots
to look for and or direct a surveyor to look for. Any sailing comments would
also be welcomed. 

Ed 
C&C 30 Mk I 
Dreamgirl 
New Orleans 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5288 - Release Date: 09/23/12

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Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[djhaug...@juno.com]

hm...thats good point...if I go with there new CPN700i it goes up to $1200 that 
puts me back with the raymarine and the garmin... So, West marine is having a 
promotion this thursday...they are offering triple rewards.  so, for every $250 
spent you get $30 in rewards dollars. So, I could price match them and then get 
another $120 in rewards on a $1250 purchase. I don't think the Standard Horizon 
has the same magnet door closer issue as the garmin and the RM... I'm a little 
obsessed at the moment...  maybe I should just wait... On a side note, We did 
have an amazing sail yesterday!  The wind was perfect and the seas were around 
2 and an occasional 3 footer... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 19:39:28 -0400


the touch screen is a nice feature on calm seas.  faster than moving the cursor 
to the POI.

JoelSent from my iPad
On Sep 24, 2012, at 7:33 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

I know...it is huge!  I feel that a 9" would be great but, they only make the 7 
or a 12 for a great price...I'm afraid if I went for the 7" i might feel I want 
the 10...LOL problem is there 10" is an $1800 touch screen.  i don't really 
need a touch screen...hm again, there is no rush on my part as I really don't 
need it for this season...  that 7" might just be the ticket... I could 
continue to use the existing fish finder and leave the old GPSmap as a backup.

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:56:15 -0400

I agree with Fred that 12 is huge, but I could see a 9 inch only because they 
seem to run 7, 9, 12. �There are buttons on the side, increasing the 
size of the case. �Plus it looks like a model being replaced. 
�Imagine the size of the mounting pod, especially if it is going to 
contain other "toys". 
But it is a great price!
 Joel35/3

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
12" is a HUGE�chartplotter for a boat your size. �Anything over 
8" would be overkill, especially if you're trying to put it at the helm, where 
it'll do the most good. �IMHO... Fred Street -- 
MinneapolisS/V�Oceanis�(1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in 
Bayfield, WI���:^( 
On Sep 24, 2012, at 3:36 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
Hello again,�Does anyone have any comments about the�Standard 
Horizon Cp590.�It is a 12"�chart-plotter�and can be had 
for $1425...bigger is better the�Standard Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version 
and can be had for under $800�DannyLolita1973 Viking 33South Coast, MA
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 -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___
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Stus-List FW: [candc-list] c&c 34

[John and Maryann Read]

Found this older post about the 34.  Hope this helps



John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: Mark Brewer [mailto:mbrew...@carolina.rr.com] 
Sent: None
To: cnc-own...@topica.com
Subject: Re: [candc-list] c&c 34

Wow, John.  You made me want to buy one.  Very nice write up on the 34!   

You mentioned something that concerns me on my 24;  "Many older units have
gate valves for seacocks and if present should be replaced.".  Coming from
sailing dinghies for the last 20 years; I am still learning about the needs
of larger boats.  How do I identify gate valves and why should they be
replaced?  Replaced with which type of valve?  Thanks.

m
C&C24 USA51924
Koyaanisqatsi

"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails". -William Arthur Ward

m
~~~(\_~~(\_~(\_(\_~~
- Original Message - 
From: "John & Maryann Read" 
To: ; "C&C Owners Group" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: [candc-list] c&c 34


> To my thinking, the 34 is the quintessential cruiser / racer for day
racing
> and coastal cruising.  We are approaching our 5th year with our 1982 and
> could not be happier.
> 
> On the cruising side, it cruises 4 people in comfort for a week or more.
It
> can sleep 6 in a pinch, especially if small children are involved.  It
> handles like a dream.  The sail plan is easily handled by husband and
wife.
> Overall layout is very functional.  Galley is well laid out.  Chart table
is
> extremely functional.  Main cabin table with bottle holder works well.
> Bunks are comfortable.  Good storage.  Hanging locker.  Hot and cold
> pressure water with shower.  Tankage is adequate for 2 - 3 days when you
> need to come in to a marina for ice anyway.  Ice box is well insulated.
> Good ventilation below, especially on later units with hatches in main
cabin
> and head.  Anchor locker forward.
> 
> On the racing side, it is a winner!!  It is most competitive in light to
> moderate air, say under 18 knots.  Very sensitive to mast trim, babystay
> trim, backstay tension, sail trim and weight distribution.  Sail controls
> are well laid out.  Get her in the groove and she flies.  We earned our
fair
> share of silver.  I can honestly say this is a boat which has the
potential
> to win every race - how well we do is entirely a result of the human
factors
> and not the boat.  We normally race with 7 on board.  We routinely race
> (spinnaker) against several C&C's including 32, 33, 34 K/C, 36, 38.  We
are
> all extremely competitive with each other
> 
> The 34 is squirrelly in heavy air downwind.  This is mainly a function of
> quartering seas pushing the stern around.  Another reason is in a heavy
puff
> dead downwind the spinnaker forces the bow down lifting the stern and
> causing the rudder to lose laminar flow.   The solution is simple - don't
> overload the sail plan.  The exception is only when you have really great
> crew on board and steer very aggressively.  A prior post about a 34
> broaching seems to me to be more a function of inexperienced helmsmanship
> and crew work than of a design flaw.  It is more tender than many C&C's,
but
> by no means excessively so.  If you check the photoalbum stability chart
you
> will see the 34 is tender.  This is one reason why it does so well in
> lighter airs - as is true for most things sailing there are trade offs.
We
> find we reef or reduce headsails a little sooner than other boats, but
that
> doesn't really hurt us as it keeps the boat on its feet which is fast.
> 
> The design of the 34 is an evolution from the 33.  The hull and deck are
> also extremely similar to the 36.  It is not like the 32 which is a quite
> different design.  A good write up on the design may be found on the
> photoalbum at
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/archive/ccnews/ccnews7.htm
> 
> The brochures are very informative and may be found at
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/34foot/34b2pg01.htm
> 
> We understand the 34 was built from 1978 to 1982.  Our hull is number 464
> and was delivered to the original owner in early 1983.  We understand ours
> is one of the last ones built, so a production run of over 100 boats per
> year speaks volumes on how well the boat was received.  In our search we
> noted the interior trim varied substantially and improved later in the
> production run.
> 
> It is important to note the "original" 34 has no relationship to the 34 /
36
> which started production in late 1980's.  The 2 are entirely different in
> design and materials.
> 
> There are no inherent design or manufacturing flaws.  It is solidly and
well
> built.  The deck is balsa cored.  There is balsa in the hull.  The early
> units had A-4's,. then switched to Yanmar 3 cylinder diesels which we have
> and it is more than adequate.  Under power, it tracks well and true.  The
> stern walks to port in reverse.  On ours, we still have the original gel
> coat and it looks great!
> 
> A

Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[Joel Aronson]

the touch screen is a nice feature on calm seas.  faster than moving the
cursor to the POI.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 24, 2012, at 7:33 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com" 
wrote:

I know...it is huge!  I feel that a 9" would be great but, they only make
the 7 or a 12 for a great price...I'm afraid if I went for the 7" i might
feel I want the 10...LOL

problem is there 10" is an $1800 touch screen.  i don't really need a touch
screen...hm

again, there is no rush on my part as I really don't need it for this
season...  that 7" might just be the ticket...

I could continue to use the existing fish finder and leave the old GPSmap
as a backup.


-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:56:15 -0400

I agree with Fred that 12 is huge, but I could see a 9 inch only because
they seem to run 7, 9, 12. �There are buttons on the side, increasing the
size of the case. �Plus it looks like a model being replaced. �Imagine the
size of the mounting pod, especially if it is going to contain other "toys".

But it is a great price!

Joel
35/3

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> 12" is a *HUGE*�chartplotter for a boat your size. �Anything over 8"
> would be overkill, especially if you're trying to put it at the helm, where
> it'll do the most good. �IMHO...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V�Oceanis�(1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI���:^(
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2012, at 3:36 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
>
> Hello again,
> �
> Does anyone have any comments about the�Standard Horizon Cp590.
> �
> It is a 12"�chart-plotter�and can be had for $1425...bigger is better
> the�Standard Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version and can be had for under $800
> �
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> South Coast, MA
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I know...it is huge!  I feel that a 9" would be great but, they only make the 7 
or a 12 for a great price...I'm afraid if I went for the 7" i might feel I want 
the 10...LOL problem is there 10" is an $1800 touch screen.  i don't really 
need a touch screen...hm again, there is no rush on my part as I really don't 
need it for this season...  that 7" might just be the ticket... I could 
continue to use the existing fish finder and leave the old GPSmap as a backup.

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:56:15 -0400

I agree with Fred that 12 is huge, but I could see a 9 inch only because they 
seem to run 7, 9, 12. �There are buttons on the side, increasing the 
size of the case. �Plus it looks like a model being replaced. 
�Imagine the size of the mounting pod, especially if it is going to 
contain other "toys".
But it is a great price!
 Joel35/3

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
12" is a HUGE�chartplotter for a boat your size. �Anything over 
8" would be overkill, especially if you're trying to put it at the helm, where 
it'll do the most good. �IMHO... Fred Street -- 
MinneapolisS/V�Oceanis�(1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in 
Bayfield, WI���:^( 
On Sep 24, 2012, at 3:36 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
Hello again,�Does anyone have any comments about the�Standard 
Horizon Cp590.�It is a 12"�chart-plotter�and can be had 
for $1425...bigger is better the�Standard Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version 
and can be had for under $800�DannyLolita1973 Viking 33South Coast, MA
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Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

[David Risch]

All,

Lady Di and I are now enjoying some quiet times in Block Island.  We too had a 
blast meeting fun folks and reveling in the our chosen marque.   

I appreciate all the kind words andwant to thank many folks for their ready 
and capable help; John Read, Robert Gallagher and Richard Walter.  

And, of course Rob.  I think he enjoyed "purging" with us all.

While our memories are fresh I would also like to put together a debrief as to 
what we did well and what we can improve, potential venues, special events, 
etc.  

This would be a blueprint going forward to make it easier for those who want to 
step up next time (there are those who want to jump in next time...right?...I 
hope...please?).

Feel free to email me your thoughts.  I will then compile them and distribute. 
Again.  Great times. Great company. Great memories.  And fabulous sailing.  

Corsair
1981 40-2
  David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 cell

-Original Message-
From: Gary Russell 
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:05:02 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

Per the directive, we went boldly home.  We saw gusts to 25 kts on the beam and 
speed over the water at warp 8.5 (9.3 over the bottom).  It was one of the most 
enjoyable sails I can remember. We covered the 52 miles home in under 8 hours!  
 But the best part was meeting all the dedicated C&Cers and especially getting 
to talk to Rob Ball.  If you missed this one, you missed a good one.  Three 
cheers for Dave Risch...  He did a superb job!  I hope all had a safe and 
enjoyable trip home.  We did.  Let's do it again.
 

Gary
S/V Expresso
East Greenwich, RI


On Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 6:08 PM, Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com> > wrote:
 Listers,
 
 Greetings from Clinton, CT. We had the Enterprise screaming along at a steady 
Warp 7.3 today -- then the current kicked in and we saw Warp 8.5.
 
 My wife Ellen and I wanted to take a moment to thank David Risch for all of 
his hard work in putting this all together. In fact, he did such an amazing 
job, we think David should be voted in to organize one of these every year (a 
little closer to New York may be nice).
 
 It was great to meet Rob Ball, especially at the reception, to ask him all 
sorts of questions about the 37+, especially on how a 40-footer got named a 37+ 
(as well as the 36-foot 34+). But, just being at a place with others who share 
the affinity for the C&C line made the trip worth it on its own.
 
 Hope everyone has a safe, fun, voyage home. And, I'll say it again, let's do 
this next year too.
 
 In the meantime, as you continue on your voyages, please remember our Prime 
Directive:
 
 Wherever you may go, go boldly.
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 ---
 C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 ---
 Sent via iPad
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Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

[Gary Russell]

Per the directive, we went boldly home.  We saw gusts to 25 kts on the beam
and speed over the water at warp 8.5 (9.3 over the bottom).  It was one of
the most enjoyable sails I can remember. We covered the 52 miles home in
under 8 hours!   But the best part was meeting all the dedicated C&Cers and
especially getting to talk to Rob Ball.  If you missed this one, you missed
a good one.  Three cheers for Dave Risch...  He did a superb job!  I hope
all had a safe and enjoyable trip home.  We did.  Let's do it again.

Gary
S/V Expresso
East Greenwich, RI

On Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 6:08 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Greetings from Clinton, CT. We had the Enterprise screaming along at a
> steady Warp 7.3 today -- then the current kicked in and we saw Warp 8.5.
>
> My wife Ellen and I wanted to take a moment to thank David Risch for all
> of his hard work in putting this all together. In fact, he did such an
> amazing job, we think David should be voted in to organize one of these
> every year (a little closer to New York may be nice).
>
> It was great to meet Rob Ball, especially at the reception, to ask him all
> sorts of questions about the 37+, especially on how a 40-footer got named a
> 37+ (as well as the 36-foot 34+). But, just being at a place with others
> who share the affinity for the C&C line made the trip worth it on its own.
>
> Hope everyone has a safe, fun, voyage home. And, I'll say it again, let's
> do this next year too.
>
> In the meantime, as you continue on your voyages, please remember our
> Prime Directive:
>
> Wherever you may go, go boldly.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> ---
> C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> ---
> Sent via iPad
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



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Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[Joel Aronson]

I agree with Fred that 12 is huge, but I could see a 9 inch only because
they seem to run 7, 9, 12.  There are buttons on the side, increasing the
size of the case.  Plus it looks like a model being replaced.  Imagine the
size of the mounting pod, especially if it is going to contain other "toys".
But it is a great price!

Joel
35/3

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> 12" is a *HUGE* chartplotter for a boat your size.  Anything over 8"
> would be overkill, especially if you're trying to put it at the helm, where
> it'll do the most good.  IMHO...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2012, at 3:36 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
>
> Hello again,
>
> Does anyone have any comments about the Standard Horizon Cp590.
>
> It is a 12" chart-plotter and can be had for $1425...bigger is better
> the Standard Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version and can be had for under $800
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> South Coast, MA
>
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[Frederick G Street]

12" is a HUGE chartplotter for a boat your size.  Anything over 8" would be 
overkill, especially if you're trying to put it at the helm, where it'll do the 
most good.  IMHO...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Sep 24, 2012, at 3:36 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

> Hello again,
>  
> Does anyone have any comments about the Standard Horizon Cp590.
>  
> It is a 12" chart-plotter and can be had for $1425...bigger is better the 
> Standard Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version and can be had for under $800
>  
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> South Coast, MA
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Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Hello again, Does anyone have any comments about the Standard Horizon Cp590. It 
is a 12" chart-plotter and can be had for $1425...bigger is better the Standard 
Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version and can be had for under $800 DannyLolita1973 
Viking 33South Coast, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 11:27:40 + (UTC)


Danny,
I don't have radar, but have researched the project for my boat.  Here's a few 
thoughts I have:
Boatshows offer free training to read the radar screen, and I would recommend 
you check out several brands before choosing.   Radar displays can be very 
confusing as the blip from a boat, a buoy, or clutter can appear the same.  
Integrating a GPS, chart, and radar would be the only way to go for me, so 
brand may be driven more by that capability. 

The cataloges show you can easily spend more on a display pod and mount than on 
the radar system, but if it isn't mounted in a convenient location, it is 
useless.   A friend mounted his radar on his mast, and keeps the display in a 
cockpit locker, I doubt it will work when needed.  Another boat has the display 
mounted on a cabin bulkhead, not too convenient.  

The stern pole mounted radars seem the better option for a few reasons.  
Shorter cable run.  Less weight aloft (this has a dramatic effect on smaller 
sailboats).  Easier to service.

Radar becomes an expensive upgrade that requires long consideration.  I 
wouldn't spend that kind of money on a boat upgrade unless I was keeping her 
for a long time.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJFrom: djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 7:31:05 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Multi function chartplotter

Hi All,

I'm considering new electronics for next year. Specifically, the Garmin 740s 
radar bundle and the Raymarine e7d radar bundle. the prices are almost the same 
especially when you consider that the Raymarine is offering a $250 AmEx gift 
card as a rebate.

I probably would not buy now as it is so late in the season but the Raymarine 
seems to be a better option when the dollars are so close and the $250 rebate 
expires Sept. 30th.

Does anyone have any comments on either of these systems and do you think the 
rebate is a sign of something coming out soon as a replacement or a price drop 
for next year?

Defender has the e7d for $2422 which is $2172 after rebate and I see the Garmen 
for $2144 at Hodges Marine. I can price match this stuff at West Marine too.

According to Practical Sailor it seems when the dollars match the Raymarine is 
the better buy because of the bells and whisltes. I also like the added knobs 
plus touch control vs just touch control on the Garmin.

Also, I have a Garman Gpsmap 162 and garmin Fishfinder 240 that are working.  
The Gpsmap doesn't show any chart info.  Am I crazy for considering the 
upgrade?  I was watching the BoatUS guys chartplotter and thought, "now, that 
would be nice!"

Danny
1973 Viking 33
South Coast, MA 



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Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

[David Blair]

I assumed the cable would disconnect at the outside end  and then the
compression ring slipped over. 

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: September-23-12 2:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

That's fine. Now what about the compression nut?

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-09-23, at 17:36, "David Blair"  wrote:

If you can make a clean slit in the rubber bung to the hole you drill for
the wire size it will fit over the wire then seal nicely when compressed -
did that with the radar cable when it had a large plug installed on each
end. They work well. Cheers

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: September-23-12 1:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

They are excellent, use them all the time, but they have to be installed
over the hole and then run the wires. I understood the challenge to be how
to seal the holes with the wires already run. Hence the goop suggestion. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-09-23, at 17:10, Charles Nelson  wrote:

Just what I need!

The list never ceases to come thru!!

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:09 AM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> Will one of these things fit?
  I have four of them
for various wires that must pass through the deck.  You can add and change
wires over time, and they're *totally* waterproof.  Heck, two of them handle
wires from my solar panels, which pass through the deck by a stanchion base.
Probably the wettest place on the boat when sailing in any kind of swell.
> 
> Wal
> 
> cenel...@aol.com wrote:
>> What is the easiest, semi-permanent solution to seal the hole with 
>> the
cable in it.
> 
> 
> --
> s/v Stella Blue
> www.wbryant.com
> 
> 
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Stus-List Boat show sale

[Joel Aronson]

During the Annapolis Boat Show (Oct. 4-8) Annapolis Performance Sailing
will be offering 15% off nearly everything.  Start measuring those worn
lines now!

I suspect other local chandleries will do something similar.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Bill Coleman]

When I redid mine I used 1/2" SS tubing on the upper and 1/4" Spectra on the
lowers.  
If you are not leaving freshwater 304 should be fine, but if you think you
could get salty at some point I would use 316.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 


-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

Hello All.

My deck project has evolved enough so that I can contemplate re-installing
the stanchions and lifelines.  I want to use uncoated stainless wire, so the
obvious question is, do I need to worry about chafing on the stanchion
itself, as the wire would have the same hardness.  Are there soft
sacrificial inserts such as nylon, polyethelene, etc, or do I need to
manufacture something?

Also, 304 or 316 for the wire? 

Finally, terminal hardware?  Any suggestions? Would prefer to use something
swageless...

Thanks to all in advance...

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List Choppy mooring tips

[Eric Frank]

James,

We did exactly the same thing after our steering cables were broken in the 
storm/hurricane last October.  I had thought the brake on the pedestal would be 
sufficient to hold the rudder, but the violent pitching and rolling caused the 
rudder to hit the stop and ruin the (albeit old) cables.  I was advised to lash 
the wheel, leaving the brake off, but decided to use the bungy cord on the 
wheel spokes (as you describe) around the base of the pedestal to provide a 
little give to the system.  No really heavy weather since then, so I don't know 
how it will fare, but seems OK.

To take all the strain off the cables and chain, one could mount the emergency 
tiller (easy to do on the 35 II) and lash it in place, leaving the steering 
brake completely off.  But I have not tried that yet.  Would be interested to 
hear other suggestions.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 10:27:24 -0400
> From: James Montague 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Choppy mooring tips
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> All - wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and what they did or
> do to alleviate the stress to the rudder/quadrant etc.
> We moor our C&C34 on the Hudson at pier 25 which typically has 3 ft swells
> rollin in caused by the ferry , cruise line and sightseeing traffic.  It is
> an ideal mooring as we live in downtown Manhattan but the boat she takes a
> pounding as you can imagine.
> 
> We have used a whole manor of techniques to avoid the "chonking"  from
> below, currently we use a bungy chord on the wheel to allow the rudder and
> qudrant to move and brake slowly.  It seems to work, wondering if there are
> unintended consequences in doing that.
> 
> Any hep advice very much appreciated.
> 
> James Montague  C&C 34
> -


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

[Marek Dziedzic]

"water knots" - I never knew that this is the name for them, but this is 
exactly what I always used on the webbing. When you Google it, the pictures 
show very short bitter ends - I would leave more. I used lops like that for at 
least three-four seasons for climbing without any issue (under load and 
without). And the webbing is always stronger (especially when bent) than a 
similar size line.

my .02 (CAD)

Marek
s/v Fennel
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Re: Stus-List Tranny Question

[Della Barba, Joe]

>From Moyer Marine:

Make sure that you install an adequate cable. A previous owner of our Tartan 30 
had installed a 3200 series cable - OK for gas or choke, but not up to moving 
the reversing gear. If you can manage to fit a 6400 series cable (5/16 -24 
threaded ends) do so. Judging from the original mounting holes, that is what 
the Tartan started with. Be sure to get the proper brackets and clevis for both 
ends. Our local marine stores had a pitiful collection of cables (except for 
stinkpots) but on the web Jamestown Distributors have a good stock and 
delivered one to me in three days.


Joe Della Barba

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Damien Morrissey
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Tranny Question

OK - thanks to all those who posted solutions to a problem regarding my 
transmission question.  I have the problem narrowed down to a seized shifter 
cable.   The cable I have seems to be oversized for the job compared to what 
was suggested (a Teleflex 3300) by a local boat shop.  The cable I have is 
5/16" diameter and what is suggested is a #10 (about 1/4").   Will this be 
adequate to shift the transmission lever on the Atomic 4 engine ?

Thanks,
Damien
C&C 33 (1974 Viking)
"Melissa Anne"
Corner Brook, NL
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Re: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Prime Interest]

We replaced the linelines on Prime Interest with some Suncor Quick Attach
system kits plus some additional fittings. All 316 stainless - we chose the
un-coated line. Took a better part of an afternoon to finish off the project
which included 3 gates. Defender.com had ( and still does ) good pricing on
the kits. 

 

Other option could be C.S. Johnson fittings ... with Amsteel for no swaging.

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 


LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

 

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

 

Hello All.

 

My deck project has evolved enough so that I can contemplate re-installing
the stanchions and lifelines.  I want to use uncoated stainless wire, so the
obvious question is, do I need to worry about chafing on the stanchion
itself, as the wire would have the same hardness.  Are there soft
sacrificial inserts such as nylon, polyethelene, etc, or do I need to
manufacture something?

 

Also, 304 or 316 for the wire? 

 

Finally, terminal hardware?  Any suggestions? Would prefer to use something
swageless...

 

Thanks to all in advance...

 

ALEX GIANNELIA

 

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED

ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006

Toronto Ontario

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

[djhaug...@juno.com]

<<<>>>>>


I completely agree with this statement.  My boat was VERY carelessly cared for 
and I'm really paying a premium for that neglect.  I've had to go through 
everything and it cost me lot of time and money and I never really got to any 
cosmetics.  One good sign of the care taken will show up in the bilge and the 
engine compartment.  If they are nasty and dirty and old wire laying around and 
the bilge pumps are all loose and flopping around, leave the boat where it is 
unless you want to sail in 2 years after you go through EVERYTHING...  these 
areas are generally easy to reach and maintain so, imagine what the hard to 
reach areas are like...  My $0.02 worth

Danny
1973 Viking 33
South Coast, MA


-- Original Message --
From: OldSteveH 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 13:26:52 -0400

Have only sailed my 34 for 3 seasons, I will leave most of the comments to
others but I do have some thoughts.
The boat has a reputation for being tender, a light air boat, harder to
handle downwind.
I would say that`s all somewhat true but exaggerated. The bigger factor is
how you select sails and how you handle the boat.
I don`t think an autohelm will do a good job on *any* boat in a strong
quartering sea and the 34 is no different.
The boat is manageable but helm it yourself in those conditions.
Last Sat we were out in 25-30 knots with 40 knot gusts, beam reach, 3 to 4
ft quartering sea, the boat did ok. Others were rounding up, we were not.

Sail selection - it may be a bit tender but shortening sail early is key.
The boat is certainly sailable in strong wind conditions.
I do wish I had a second reef point in my main, and cringles to tie up the
extra sail - must haves for the next mainsail.
I think it can outperform its PHRF of 144 in light air and perhaps need some
more time in heavy air, averaging out where it is.

The 3GM Yanmar is terrific for this boat - no vibration, etc. Prop walk to
port. Perhaps a few more hp than the boat needs.

Water leaks - windows as usual, some from the toerail (mine is a 1982 btw,
hull #442)

Hull integrity - well it sounds like every one is a bit different. 
For mine all hull and deck are original gelcoat - - no major repairs have
been done.
The boat has all new thru hulls - done by previous owner. Maybe they had
some problems with the originals. Weren't they gate valves?
The only soft place is the coachtop splash apron - I plan to remove and
repair it this winter.
I also keep my weight off the anchor locker - will remove it this winter as
well.
Some people complain about crazing and softness near their stanchion bases,
I have had no problem with mine. But previous owner did put on new ones
which hook over the toe rail, it probably helped take load off the deck.

Spars, standing rigging, sheaves, etc have all been really good. Don't know
about the Navtec hydraulic adjuster though but right now its working ok.
I think just as important as the usual surveyor inspection of hull and deck
integrity is "How well has the boat been maintained?" A. carefully or B.
carelessly.

Good luck!


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON




--

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 10:28:20 -0500
From: elev...@grayinsco.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The bigger/newer boat bug has bitten. I am about to make an offer on a 
1981 C&C 34. I would appreciate any comments as to any particular trouble 
spots to look for and or direct a surveyor to look for. Any sailing 
comments would also be welcomed.

Ed
C&C 30 Mk I
Dreamgirl
New Orleans 
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Della Barba, Joe]

*Some* Toughbooks come with transreflective screens that can be read in bright 
sunlight ;)
They tend to cost more :(

Joe Della Barba

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

Panasonic makes a lot of different ToughBooks. I use one for my weather station 
(WU IONOTTAW15, CWOP D7146) and it has a serial port, runs XP (slowly, but 
accurately), it is splash-proof, has touch screen (and I though touch screen 
was invented by Apple) and, the best - I got it for $150 two years ago. This 
one was in use by some local Police Force; there were tons of them used that 
way. If you look around you might be able to find it; I would start in any 
surplus stores, computer for schools outlets etc. One problem if you use it 
on-board - it does not handle sun too well (as you won't be able to see 
anything in bright sunshine).

Marek
s/v Fennel
Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

[OldSteveH]

Have only sailed my 34 for 3 seasons, I will leave most of the comments to
others but I do have some thoughts.
The boat has a reputation for being tender, a light air boat, harder to
handle downwind.
I would say that`s all somewhat true but exaggerated. The bigger factor is
how you select sails and how you handle the boat.
I don`t think an autohelm will do a good job on *any* boat in a strong
quartering sea and the 34 is no different.
The boat is manageable but helm it yourself in those conditions.
Last Sat we were out in 25-30 knots with 40 knot gusts, beam reach, 3 to 4
ft quartering sea, the boat did ok. Others were rounding up, we were not.

Sail selection - it may be a bit tender but shortening sail early is key.
The boat is certainly sailable in strong wind conditions.
I do wish I had a second reef point in my main, and cringles to tie up the
extra sail - must haves for the next mainsail.
I think it can outperform its PHRF of 144 in light air and perhaps need some
more time in heavy air, averaging out where it is.

The 3GM Yanmar is terrific for this boat - no vibration, etc. Prop walk to
port. Perhaps a few more hp than the boat needs.

Water leaks - windows as usual, some from the toerail (mine is a 1982 btw,
hull #442)

Hull integrity - well it sounds like every one is a bit different. 
For mine all hull and deck are original gelcoat - - no major repairs have
been done.
The boat has all new thru hulls - done by previous owner. Maybe they had
some problems with the originals. Weren't they gate valves?
The only soft place is the coachtop splash apron - I plan to remove and
repair it this winter.
I also keep my weight off the anchor locker - will remove it this winter as
well.
Some people complain about crazing and softness near their stanchion bases,
I have had no problem with mine. But previous owner did put on new ones
which hook over the toe rail, it probably helped take load off the deck.

Spars, standing rigging, sheaves, etc have all been really good. Don't know
about the Navtec hydraulic adjuster though but right now its working ok.
I think just as important as the usual surveyor inspection of hull and deck
integrity is "How well has the boat been maintained?" A. carefully or B.
carelessly.

Good luck!


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON




--

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 10:28:20 -0500
From: elev...@grayinsco.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The bigger/newer boat bug has bitten. I am about to make an offer on a 
1981 C&C 34. I would appreciate any comments as to any particular trouble 
spots to look for and or direct a surveyor to look for. Any sailing 
comments would also be welcomed.

Ed
C&C 30 Mk I
Dreamgirl
New Orleans 
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Tim Goodyear]

Very interesting!  I had connected my Garmin plotter to the Raymarine
autopilot and instruments successfully (btw, dtw, xte, cog, sog), but
failed to get anything back from the instruments (on a separate circuit) to
the plotter (depth etc).  I will try again!

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 11:47 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

>  Well, Steve Thomas wins the Golden Thunder Mug.
>
> ** **
>
> Electric I understand, Electronic is beyond my scope of comprehension.
> How (see below) you can ignore a NMEA ground on the VHF end and take the
> NMEA  IN ground, put a resistor on it, put it on the (NMEA IN) positive,
> (which to me = a direct short!) and Viola, the satellite icon pops up in
> the corner of the VHF, GPS Coordinates, time, the whole ball of wax!  NMEA
> 1.5 is now 2.0!  
>
> ** **
>
> <<< 1. Connect NMEA+ from the plotter to NMEA in (blue cable) on the VHF.
> 2. Connect NMEA- from the plotter to the NMEA in on the VFH via an 8k Ohm
> resistor ($1 part at the closest Electronic part store / Radio shack etc).
> 3. Isolate the NMEA ground (green cable) from the VHF and leave it
> disconnected.
> 4. On the "NMEA out" menu option in the RL70, select RMC (you can
> de-select the other options if you don't have another NMEA consumer.
>
> That's it. Your GX2100 will now be able to read the 
> GPS
>  location from your plotter!
>
> ** **
>
> Once again, as everyone says, this list is the best.  If no one has the
> answer, by gawry someone will go find it!
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks again to Steve, and of course everyone else who chimed it with
> their suggestions.
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 [image: animated_favicon1]
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman [mailto:colt...@verizon.net]
> *Sent:* Friday, September 21, 2012 2:07 PM
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Subject:* RE: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0
>
>  ** **
>
> This looks like good stuff.  I will be stopping off at Radio Shack this
> evening.  I had searched through there, but I never found that particular
> post, good find.  Whoops, no, I searched cruisers forums, not sailnet.
>
> The NMEA voltage bounces as high, I think, (bad memory) 6 or 7 V, and
> everyone I talked to said highs of 4 or 5, so, maybe cutting it will help.
> 
>
> And Fred, I did try connecting with either the shield or the ground, but I
> will screw around with this some more before trying the resistor.  You know
> what they say about the definition of insanity. . . 
>
> Then when nothing works I will give up and buy another GPS antenna!
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 [image: animated_favicon1]
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:
> cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Steve Thomas
> *Sent:* Friday, September 21, 2012 12:29 PM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0
>
>  ** **
>
> Seems there is an electrical difference between 0183 1.xx and 0183 2.xx
> and later versions. 
>
> The 1.xx versions are single ended, signal and ground, while the 2.xx and
> later have differential + and - signal wires and should have a separate
> ground/shield.
>
>  
>
> Funny thing is that the GX2150 does not have differential inputs. 
>
>  
>
> Anyway here is what one guy did to interface an RL series plotter to a
> GX2100.
>
>  
>
> Might be worth a try.
>
>  
>
>
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electronics/82335-how-connect-standard-horizon-gx2100-ais-vhf-raymarine-rl-70c-plotter.html
> 
>
>  
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> C&C27 MKIII
>
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  -Original Message-
> *From:* cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:
> cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street
> *Sent:* Friday, September 21, 2012 11:50 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0
>
> Bill take a look at this PDF, starting with page 9: 
>
> ** **
>
>
> http://www.actisense.com/Downloads/TechTalk/NMEA%200183/The%20NMEA%200183%20Information%20Sheet.pdf
> 
>
> ** **
>
> This might help.  In my experience, sometimes there are issues with what
> gets labeled "input" vs. "output", as well as data + and – or ground; but
> be *really* careful what you try so you don't damage things.  Usually
> it's just as easy as connecting the properly labeled leads together to get
> the signal to the proper place -- the problem comes in getting the settings
> right on the send and receive end, so that everything's happy.
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(*
> ***
>
> ** **
>
> On Sep 21, 2012, at 10:25 AM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>
> ** **
>
> Hello Steve,
>
> This tech was pretty sharp, he was not reading from the manual – it is a
> 2003, so I believe him whe

Re: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Joel Aronson]

Alex,
Cool!  The uppers on my boat run through rounded loops.  The lowers have
nylon grommets.
Joel
35/3

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 12:38 PM, Alex Giannelia  wrote:

> Hello All.
>
> My deck project has evolved enough so that I can contemplate re-installing
> the stanchions and lifelines.  I want to use uncoated stainless wire, so
> the obvious question is, do I need to worry about chafing on the stanchion
> itself, as the wire would have the same hardness.  Are there soft
> sacrificial inserts such as nylon, polyethelene, etc, or do I need to
> manufacture something?
>
> Also, 304 or 316 for the wire?
>
> Finally, terminal hardware?  Any suggestions? Would prefer to use
> something swageless...
>
> Thanks to all in advance...
>
> ALEX GIANNELIA
>
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Alex Giannelia]

Hello All.

My deck project has evolved enough so that I can contemplate re-installing the 
stanchions and lifelines.  I want to use uncoated stainless wire, so the 
obvious question is, do I need to worry about chafing on the stanchion itself, 
as the wire would have the same hardness.  Are there soft sacrificial inserts 
such as nylon, polyethelene, etc, or do I need to manufacture something?

Also, 304 or 316 for the wire? 

Finally, terminal hardware?  Any suggestions? Would prefer to use something 
swageless...

Thanks to all in advance...

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

[Robert Wooden]

If you want to tie loops or jack lines or whatever with webbing use a "water
knot".  

Just Google "water knot" and you will get diagrams and how to tie this
simple knot.  Sewed webbing is probably better, but I have used the water
knot for years and never had one fail.  Some of the sewed webbing (such as
tethers for safety harnesses) have overload indicators sewn in so you can
see when they have been overloaded and should be replaced.

Bob Wooden
C&C 27 Mk 3 - Rhapsody
 



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Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

[cenelson]

Looks like it would do the trick but unfortunately, my Garmin wire has network 
connectors attached which would need to either go thru the piece or be cut and 
redone.

The cable clam appears to allow a connector thru and still be able to tighten 
onto the cable.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom 36 XL/kcb




cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Marek Dziedzic 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Sep 24, 2012 11:34 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck


Have you considered one of these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=35103&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50567#.UGB8q67UCj0
 (Anchor Marine Through Deck wire seal).
 
I have one on my 24 and it hasn't leaked in 4 years.
 
Marek
s/v Fennel
C&C 24
Ottawa

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Marek Dziedzic]

Panasonic makes a lot of different ToughBooks. I use one for my weather station 
(WU IONOTTAW15, CWOP D7146) and it has a serial port, runs XP (slowly, but 
accurately), it is splash-proof, has touch screen (and I though touch screen 
was invented by Apple) and, the best - I got it for $150 two years ago. This 
one was in use by some local Police Force; there were tons of them used that 
way. If you look around you might be able to find it; I would start in any 
surplus stores, computer for schools outlets etc. One problem if you use it 
on-board - it does not handle sun too well (as you won't be able to see 
anything in bright sunshine).

Marek
s/v Fennel
Ottawa___
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Stus-List Spectra loops

[Marek Dziedzic]

I don't know what kind of loads you have to deal with, but even the thinnest of 
them all is rated at 2700 kG, which usually means that it can withstand a few 
times more.

Climbing gear is designed to stretch to absorb the dynamic load (when you 
fall), but on a short loop like this, the stretch would be minimal. One thing 
to keep in mind when using webbing - the knots don't hold that well. There are 
a few knots that do work, but they are not in the usual sailor's arsenal.

Marek
s/v Fennel
Ottawa___
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Bill Coleman]

Well, Steve Thomas wins the Golden Thunder Mug.

 

Electric I understand, Electronic is beyond my scope of comprehension.  How
(see below) you can ignore a NMEA ground on the VHF end and take the NMEA
IN ground, put a resistor on it, put it on the (NMEA IN) positive, (which to
me = a direct short!) and Viola, the satellite icon pops up in the corner of
the VHF, GPS Coordinates, time, the whole ball of wax!  NMEA 1.5 is now 2.0!


 

<<< 1. Connect NMEA+ from the plotter to NMEA in (blue cable) on the VHF.
2. Connect NMEA- from the plotter to the NMEA in on the VFH via an 8k Ohm
resistor ($1 part at the closest Electronic part store / Radio shack etc).
3. Isolate the NMEA ground (green cable) from the VHF and leave it
disconnected.
4. On the "NMEA out" menu option in the RL70, select RMC (you can de-select
the other options if you don't have another NMEA consumer.

That's it. Your GX2100 will now be able to read the
 GPS location from your plotter!

 

Once again, as everyone says, this list is the best.  If no one has the
answer, by gawry someone will go find it!

 

Thanks again to Steve, and of course everyone else who chimed it with their
suggestions.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: Bill Coleman [mailto:colt...@verizon.net] 
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:07 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Subject: RE: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

This looks like good stuff.  I will be stopping off at Radio Shack this
evening.  I had searched through there, but I never found that particular
post, good find.  Whoops, no, I searched cruisers forums, not sailnet.

The NMEA voltage bounces as high, I think, (bad memory) 6 or 7 V, and
everyone I talked to said highs of 4 or 5, so, maybe cutting it will help.  

And Fred, I did try connecting with either the shield or the ground, but I
will screw around with this some more before trying the resistor.  You know
what they say about the definition of insanity. . . 

Then when nothing works I will give up and buy another GPS antenna!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Thomas
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 12:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

Seems there is an electrical difference between 0183 1.xx and 0183 2.xx and
later versions. 

The 1.xx versions are single ended, signal and ground, while the 2.xx and
later have differential + and - signal wires and should have a separate
ground/shield.

 

Funny thing is that the GX2150 does not have differential inputs. 

 

Anyway here is what one guy did to interface an RL series plotter to a
GX2100.

 

Might be worth a try.

 

 
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electronics/82335-how-connect-standard-horizon
-gx2100-ais-vhf-raymarine-rl-70c-plotter.html

 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII

Port Stanley, ON

 

 

 

 -Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On
Behalf Of Frederick G Street
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 11:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

Bill take a look at this PDF, starting with page 9: 

 

http://www.actisense.com/Downloads/TechTalk/NMEA%200183/The%20NMEA%200183%20
Information%20Sheet.pdf

 

This might help.  In my experience, sometimes there are issues with what
gets labeled "input" vs. "output", as well as data + and - or ground; but be
really careful what you try so you don't damage things.  Usually it's just
as easy as connecting the properly labeled leads together to get the signal
to the proper place -- the problem comes in getting the settings right on
the send and receive end, so that everything's happy.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Sep 21, 2012, at 10:25 AM, Bill Coleman wrote:

 

Hello Steve,

This tech was pretty sharp, he was not reading from the manual - it is a
2003, so I believe him when he says it is 1.5

There also is no mention at all of versions, let alone Baud rates, , he said
it was 4800, period. The only thing I can adjust in the setup is turning
sentences on and off, and the seatalk bridge.

I have tried connecting them, no response.  The sentences are coming in, the
voltage rolls up and down.  I think there must be something different in the
protocol between 1.5 and 2.  The Standard Horizon manual definitely says it
will only work  with ver. 2.0 and up. I have bridged NMEA to Seatalk as that
is how the Autopilot communicates, but I don't think this would be a
problem, that just introduces other info such as the compass and converts to
NMEA, I think.

A talk with a Standard Horizon Tech produced nothing, oddly enough he didn't
seem to know much about NEMA conversions.

Waiting to hear back from Brookhouse.

 

<>__

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

[Della Barba, Joe]

Outside of my own boat, I have more miles on a 34 than any other C&C.
Compared to a 35 MK I:
The boat is harder to handle downwind. The IOR broach tendency is more 
pronounced than the 35.
The original engine is a 2 cylinder Yanmar that - compared to a 4 cylinder A4 
at least - vibrates the whole boat including the mast. Those engines are 
getting pretty old too at this point. Worth having it checked out by a diesel 
mechanic.
I know of one that suffered rotten deck coring, but that certainly isn't unique 
to 34s or even C&Cs.
We had one take on a LOT of water on a rough Bermuda race. The 35 has big steel 
plates behind the nuts on the keel bolts and the 34 had washers (ouch!), The 
washers were digging into the hull and letting a lot of water get in. Backing 
plates were added to that boat in Bermuda. Speaking of which, any 35 owners 
with the original iron/steel plates need to switch them for stainless ASAP. 
Mine were dissolving by the late 80s!

Joe Della Barba
C&C 35 MK I
Coquina
CRYC

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of elev...@grayinsco.com
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 11:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

The bigger/newer boat bug has bitten. I am about to make an offer on a 1981 C&C 
34. I would appreciate any comments as to any particular trouble spots to look 
for and or direct a surveyor to look for. Any sailing comments would also be 
welcomed.

Ed
C&C 30 Mk I
Dreamgirl
New Orleans
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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball and the 37+/40

[Edd Schillay]

Tom,

I did. Great story. Will write it up once I get home and connected to real 
Internet. 

All the best,


Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
Traveling Warp 6.1
20 miles east of Southport Harbor


On Sep 24, 2012, at 10:46 AM, Tom B  wrote:

Edd

Did you get to ask Rob Ball about the origin of the wholes"+" thing?

Tom Buscaglia
Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA

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Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

[Marek Dziedzic]

Have you considered one of these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=35103&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50567#.UGB8q67UCj0
 (Anchor Marine Through Deck wire seal).

I have one on my 24 and it hasn't leaked in 4 years.

Marek
s/v Fennel
C&C 24
Ottawa___
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Re: Stus-List Spectra loops now soft shackles

[Walt Dickie]

Related: Has anyone had experience with soft shackles (home-made or commercial) 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH66tGsWv_Y&feature=player_detailpage

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 8:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

Very cool.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

From: "Joel Aronson" mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 9:16:07 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

Chuck,

They are dyneema or Spectra depending on what they have in stock.  The loop is 
sewn together, not spliced.  I picked up a couple for low load uses such as 
clipping a spinnaker bag or halyard to the bow pulpit.

Joel
On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 6:21 AM, Chuck S 
mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>> wrote:
I would use mountain climbing gear if the load ratings were right.  Very good 
stuff made to support lives.
The loops referenced seem to be made with nylon which is inherently stretchy.  
Not sure if that is best for a boat?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

From: "Joel Aronson" mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:13:49 AM
Subject: Stus-List Spectra loops


Has anyone tried these for attaching blocks etc?

http://www.rei.com/product/474003/bluewater-titanspectra-runner-916

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Stus-List 1981 C&C 34

[ELevert]

The bigger/newer boat bug has bitten. I am about to make an offer on a 
1981 C&C 34. I would appreciate any comments as to any particular trouble 
spots to look for and or direct a surveyor to look for. Any sailing 
comments would also be welcomed.

Ed
C&C 30 Mk I
Dreamgirl
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Stus-List clutch and winch relationship

[Chuck S]

Those teak clutch pads may not be necessary, depending on winch drum height. 

Looking at Barient catalog on Stu's website, manufacturers prefer the line 
coming from a lower angle of about 3 to 8 degrees. 
Roger Marshall suggests blocks, or fairleads, or clutches, be kept 18" away 
from a winch to allow hockles to work themselves free during a release? 
Many boat builders install them too close together. (I once helped the owner of 
a C&C 121 raise his jib and the friction was so great because the clutch and 
winch were 6 inches apart, we had to use the winch the whole way.) Properly 
led, I can raise my sails (only slightly smaller dimensions) by hand from the 
cockpit, and without a winch. We only use a winch to get the final tension . 

Spinlock clutch directions from their online catalog: 
• Keep the rope deflection angle as small as possible. In a bank of clutches, 
try to ensure that the most heavily loaded lines have the least deflection. 
• The angle of the line from the clutch up to the winch drum, should not exceed 
10º. You can reduce this angle by increasing clutch to winch distance or 
raising the clutch using a wood or delrin pad. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
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Stus-List Rob Ball and the 37+/40

[Tom B]

Edd

Did you get to ask Rob Ball about the origin of the wholes"+" thing?

Tom Buscaglia
Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA

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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Joel Aronson]

The teak base is too short for any of the newer clutches, so keeping it
won't work.  It's approximately 2 1/2 inches high, so I could layer some
Starboard.  I'll have to look at the geometry more closely when I am
aboard.  So much for a simple swap-out!

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 10:19 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:

>
> I'd leave it or replace it with starboard.
>
> Almost all these clutches have something spring-loaded to push the line
> down into a gripper (or likely the top half of the gripper is spring
> loaded to push it down into the lower half of the gripper.)
>
> When you mount the clutch so that the line pays more-or-less
> horizontally off the clutch to the winch, the tension on the line won't
> oppose the springs.
> When you mount the clutch lower...the tension on the line tends to keep
> the top half of the gripper from pushing down on to the lower half...so
> it slips for a bit until the springs can push the line low enough to
> grip it.
>
> YMMV.
>
> -Keith M
> C&C 35-3
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 9:30
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches
>
> Thanks all!  The base puts the line at the same height as the bottom of
> the winch, but I'll probably eliminate it when I replace the clutches.
> It is a big old chunk of teak!  I'll be filling and drilling in no time!
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:41 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>
>
> Joel,
>
> My clutches mount right on the deck, not on raised bases.  That
> may have been changed when the traveler was moved to the cockpit, but
> looks original to me.  I replaced all my originals two years ago - your
> halyards will thank you...
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson
>  wrote:
>
>
> Arrgh!  I think you are right!It looks like all of
> the modern
> clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait
> until I have
> time to make a new base.
> Recommendations for clutches and base materials?
>
>
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain
>  wrote:
>
> > If its original Schaefer 
> >
> > Paul. :)
> >
> >
> > On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson
>  wrote:
> >
> >> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part
> of a triple on the
> >> cabin top.
> >> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.
> Its not spinlock
> >> lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd
> like to make the
> >> replacement as painless as possible.
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> Joel
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >> ___
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> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> 
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >
> > ___
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
> ___
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>



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Stus-List Choppy mooring tips

[James Montague]

All - wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and what they did or
do to alleviate the stress to the rudder/quadrant etc.
We moor our C&C34 on the Hudson at pier 25 which typically has 3 ft swells
rollin in caused by the ferry , cruise line and sightseeing traffic.  It is
an ideal mooring as we live in downtown Manhattan but the boat she takes a
pounding as you can imagine.

We have used a whole manor of techniques to avoid the "chonking"  from
below, currently we use a bungy chord on the wheel to allow the rudder and
qudrant to move and brake slowly.  It seems to work, wondering if there are
unintended consequences in doing that.

Any hep advice very much appreciated.

James Montague  C&C 34
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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

I'd leave it or replace it with starboard.

Almost all these clutches have something spring-loaded to push the line
down into a gripper (or likely the top half of the gripper is spring
loaded to push it down into the lower half of the gripper.)

When you mount the clutch so that the line pays more-or-less
horizontally off the clutch to the winch, the tension on the line won't
oppose the springs.
When you mount the clutch lower...the tension on the line tends to keep
the top half of the gripper from pushing down on to the lower half...so
it slips for a bit until the springs can push the line low enough to
grip it.

YMMV.

-Keith M
C&C 35-3


-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 9:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

Thanks all!  The base puts the line at the same height as the bottom of
the winch, but I'll probably eliminate it when I replace the clutches.
It is a big old chunk of teak!  I'll be filling and drilling in no time!


On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:41 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:


Joel,
 
My clutches mount right on the deck, not on raised bases.  That
may have been changed when the traveler was moved to the cockpit, but
looks original to me.  I replaced all my originals two years ago - your
halyards will thank you...
 
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


On Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson
 wrote:


Arrgh!  I think you are right!It looks like all of
the modern
clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait
until I have
time to make a new base.
Recommendations for clutches and base materials?


Joel
Sent from my iPad


On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain
 wrote:

> If its original Schaefer 
>
> Paul. :)
>
>
> On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson
 wrote:
>
>> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part
of a triple on the
>> cabin top.
>> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.
Its not spinlock
>> lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd
like to make the
>> replacement as painless as possible.
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street]

Or maybe a way to get ahead of 3-foot-itis...   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Sep 24, 2012, at 8:30 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:

> Don't knock it. You can brag using the real measurement or quietly pay for 
> dockage using the C&C number. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2012-09-24, at 10:19, "allen"  wrote:
> 
> Sorry I couldn't make the gathering of eagles, but my leg is still 
> recuperating and I haven't been released to go sailing or much of anything. 
> But, like you, I've laid awake at night wondering why they named the 34+ and 
> 37+ for boats that were 36 and 40 feet LOA.  My 30+ is 30 feet LOA.  What was 
> his answer?
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Della Barba, Joe]

EDIT:
Check this out. This thing apparently can be washed, so it must be spray/wet 
hands proof!
http://pcretro.com/products/panasonic-toughbook-cf-h1-mobile-clinical-assistant


Joe Della Barba

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

I use the 600s. They are 300 MHz machines that run Windows 98 fine and XP a 
little slow.
They are stripped down - no extra software, no office, no anti-virus, no games, 
no movies, no internet connection. They do navigation plus PSK31 (ham radio) 
and nothing else.
I have one hard drive with 98 and SeaClear and another one with XP and 
SeaClear+OpenCPN. I believe I sold one to someone on this list and it sat in 
Canadian customs for weeks.

Joe Della Barba - Coquina.

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 11:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0


What do you mean by "old"?

My boat machine is a Thinkpad T-42 and travels in a Pelican case. It was the 
carbon fibre gear to land on the race boat :)

Interesting, the second piece of carbon fibre gear to come onto the race boat 
was the skipper's knee brace!

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east Vancouver Island

At 12:08 PM 21/09/2012, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 
boundary="_000_1073606396712942AEE54D9A960E45A713793F2A34HQMB07baadssa_"

I keep old IBM ThinkPads around for boat duty ;)


Joe Della Barba

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

Really, when was the last time anyone saw a new laptop with a serial port?   
:^)   Although I am a dyed-in-the-wool Mac guy, I keep an ancient HP/Compaq 
Windows XP machine around just because it has a real serial port on it...


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Sep 21, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:


Have you tried a laptop? Use the serial port and read the data directly to see 
what you have got.

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Della Barba, Joe]

I use the 600s. They are 300 MHz machines that run Windows 98 fine and XP a 
little slow.
They are stripped down - no extra software, no office, no anti-virus, no games, 
no movies, no internet connection. They do navigation plus PSK31 (ham radio) 
and nothing else.
I have one hard drive with 98 and SeaClear and another one with XP and 
SeaClear+OpenCPN. I believe I sold one to someone on this list and it sat in 
Canadian customs for weeks.

Joe Della Barba - Coquina.

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Russ & Melody
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 11:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0


What do you mean by "old"?

My boat machine is a Thinkpad T-42 and travels in a Pelican case. It was the 
carbon fibre gear to land on the race boat :)

Interesting, the second piece of carbon fibre gear to come onto the race boat 
was the skipper's knee brace!

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east Vancouver Island

At 12:08 PM 21/09/2012, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 
boundary="_000_1073606396712942AEE54D9A960E45A713793F2A34HQMB07baadssa_"

I keep old IBM ThinkPads around for boat duty ;)


Joe Della Barba

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

Really, when was the last time anyone saw a new laptop with a serial port?   
:^)   Although I am a dyed-in-the-wool Mac guy, I keep an ancient HP/Compaq 
Windows XP machine around just because it has a real serial port on it...


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Sep 21, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:


Have you tried a laptop? Use the serial port and read the data directly to see 
what you have got.

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Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

[cenelson]

I may not have been clear regarding the original problem. 

In fact, I am replacing the current wires in the hole with new ones from the 
new, networked instruments. Thus if the cable clam works and fits where I need 
it, it should solve my problem.

Thanks again for the info about these.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
Greenville, NC


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Rich Knowles 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Sun, Sep 23, 2012 10:54 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck


You are correct. However, unless I'm stunned, the original problem was how to 
seal up a hole in the deck with the wires already installed. Maybe I'm 
stunned Mmmm?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax


On 2012-09-23, at 23:43, cenel...@aol.com wrote:


I may have it wrong but from the diagrams on the site, it looks like one drills 
a hole in the deck (or uses one already there), puts the cable thru all the 
cable clam pieces and then tightens the screws provided.


This looks like it both compresses and seals the rubber gasket around the cable 
and seals the device to the deck via the
provided flat rubber seal/washer. 


Thus no water can get in via the cable/gasket path nor rubber seal/washer of 
the device to the deck.


OTOH, never having seen the device "...in the flesh...", I could have it wrong.


In any event, I am ordering one tomorrow and will soon find out!


Charlie Nelson





cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Sun, Sep 23, 2012 9:04 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck



Since it attachesd to the deck with fasteners and also uses fasteners to 
compress the rubber bushing, one should be able to drill the holes in the deck, 
dry fit it, then pull it up, cut a slot in both pieces and the rubber bushing, 
slide the cable through the slots in all and fasten it to the deck and compress 
it.
 
Dennis C.




From: Rich Knowles 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck


That's fine. Now what about the compression nut?

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-09-23, at 17:36, "David Blair"  wrote:

If you can make a clean slit in the rubber bung to the hole you drill for
the wire size it will fit over the wire then seal nicely when compressed -
did that with the radar cable when it had a large plug installed on each
end. They work well. Cheers

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: September-23-12 1:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

They are excellent, use them all the time, but they have to be installed
over the hole and then run the wires. I understood the challenge to be how
to seal the holes with the wires already run. Hence the goop suggestion. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-09-23, at 17:10, Charles Nelson  wrote:

Just what I need!

The list never ceases to come thru!!

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:09 AM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> Will one of these things fit?
< " target="_blank"http://bluesea.com/category/82/productline/overview/1> ; I 
have four of them
for various wires that must pass through the deck.  You can add and change
wires over time, and they're *totally* waterproof.  Heck, two of them handle
wires from my solar panels, which pass through the deck by a stanchion base.
Probably the wettest place on the boat when sailing in any kind of swell.
> 
> Wal
> 
> cenel...@aol.com wrote:
>> What is the easiest, semi-permanent solution to seal the hole with the
cable in it.
> 
> 
> --
> s/v Stella Blue
> http://www.wbryant.com/
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

[Rich Knowles]

Don't knock it. You can brag using the real measurement or quietly pay for 
dockage using the C&C number. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-09-24, at 10:19, "allen"  wrote:

Sorry I couldn't make the gathering of eagles, but my leg is still recuperating 
and I haven't been released to go sailing or much of anything. But, like you, 
I've laid awake at night wondering why they named the 34+ and 37+ for boats 
that were 36 and 40 feet LOA.  My 30+ is 30 feet LOA.  What was his answer?

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
C&C 30 +
Hampton, VA

--
From: "Edd Schillay" 
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 6:08 PM
To: 
Subject: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

> Listers,
> 
> Greetings from Clinton, CT. We had the Enterprise screaming along at a steady 
> Warp 7.3 today -- then the current kicked in and we saw Warp 8.5.
> 
> My wife Ellen and I wanted to take a moment to thank David Risch for all of 
> his hard work in putting this all together. In fact, he did such an amazing 
> job, we think David should be voted in to organize one of these every year (a 
> little closer to New York may be nice).
> 
> It was great to meet Rob Ball, especially at the reception, to ask him all 
> sorts of questions about the 37+, especially on how a 40-footer got named a 
> 37+ (as well as the 36-foot 34+). But, just being at a place with others who 
> share the affinity for the C&C line made the trip worth it on its own.
> 
> Hope everyone has a safe, fun, voyage home. And, I'll say it again, let's do 
> this next year too.
> 
> In the meantime, as you continue on your voyages, please remember our Prime 
> Directive:
> 
> Wherever you may go, go boldly.
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> ---
> C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> ---
> Sent via iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Joel Aronson]

Thanks all!  The base puts the line at the same height as the bottom of the
winch, but I'll probably eliminate it when I replace the clutches.  It is a
big old chunk of teak!  I'll be filling and drilling in no time!

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:41 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

> Joel,
>
> My clutches mount right on the deck, not on raised bases.  That may have
> been changed when the traveler was moved to the cockpit, but looks original
> to me.  I replaced all my originals two years ago - your halyards will
> thank you...
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
> On Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
>> Arrgh!  I think you are right!It looks like all of the modern
>> clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait until I have
>> time to make a new base.
>> Recommendations for clutches and base materials?
>>
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>  On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain 
>> wrote:
>>
>> > If its original Schaefer 
>> >
>> > Paul. :)
>> >
>> >
>> > On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>> >
>> >> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part of a triple on the
>> >> cabin top.
>> >> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.  Its not spinlock
>> >> lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd like to make the
>> >> replacement as painless as possible.
>> >> Thanks!
>> >>
>> >> Joel
>> >> Sent from my iPad
>> >>
>> >> ___
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>> >>
>> >
>> > ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

[Chuck S]

Very cool. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Joel Aronson"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 9:16:07 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra loops 

Chuck, 


They are dyneema or Spectra depending on what they have in stock. The loop is 
sewn together, not spliced. I picked up a couple for low load uses such as 
clipping a spinnaker bag or halyard to the bow pulpit. 


Joel 


On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 6:21 AM, Chuck S < cscheaf...@comcast.net > wrote: 




I would use mountain climbing gear if the load ratings were right. Very good 
stuff made to support lives. 
The loops referenced seem to be made with nylon which is inherently stretchy. 
Not sure if that is best for a boat? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

From: "Joel Aronson" < joel.aron...@gmail.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:13:49 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Spectra loops 



Has anyone tried these for attaching blocks etc? 


http://www.rei.com/product/474003/bluewater-titanspectra-runner-916 


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301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List hot water on the boat

[Greg Sutherland]

Hey Dwight, all systems are a go. Not exactly sure what the issue was to be 
honest, things just seemed to cure them self later the next day. I wish the 
same thing would happen to my Motorcycle! I am going to assume at this point 
that it was a stuck thermostat like a few posters had mentioned. I was going to 
start pulling things apart once I had it back at the Squadron, but decided to 
let sleeping dogs lie so to speak. Thanks again to everyone for their help and 
advice, it was greatly appreciated. 
 
Greg
Siesta
C&C 33-2
Halifax, N.S.


 



From: dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: bluenosesail...@hotmail.com
Subject: hot water on the boat
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 17:21:59 -0300







Hi Greg
 
Back in August when you were in Mahone Bay you reported a problem with getting 
domestic hot water on your boat.
 
I don’t recall the outcome or how you remedied the problem if you did but;  
 
Now I am having similar issues with my boat where the domestic hot water is 
supposed to get heated by the coolant from my Universal M4-30 diesel engine.
 
I am wondering what you found out and also how your hot water tank is plumbed 
to get engine coolant flowing through it.  My hot water tank is slightly higher 
than the engine and today when I disconnected the coolant lines from the engine 
to it no coolant exited either line with the engine running hard in reverse at 
2000rpm on the mooring, but the engine did not overheat so I think the supply 
and discharge lines from the engines salt water heat exchanger have coolant 
flowing through them.  The hot water tank on my boat seems to be plumbed in 
parallel with the heat exchanger and therefore seems like it would act as a 
heat exchanger until the water got hot.  I am wondering about a possible 
airlock and also considering this may have something to do with having the tank 
installed above the engine. Can you offer any help?
 
Thanks
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
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Re: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous

[allen]

Sorry I couldn't make the gathering of eagles, but my leg is still 
recuperating and I haven't been released to go sailing or much of anything. 
But, like you, I've laid awake at night wondering why they named the 34+ and 
37+ for boats that were 36 and 40 feet LOA.  My 30+ is 30 feet LOA.  What 
was his answer?


Allen Miles
S/V Septima
C&C 30 +
Hampton, VA

--
From: "Edd Schillay" 
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 6:08 PM
To: 
Subject: Stus-List 2012 C&C Rendezvous


Listers,

Greetings from Clinton, CT. We had the Enterprise screaming along at a 
steady Warp 7.3 today -- then the current kicked in and we saw Warp 8.5.


My wife Ellen and I wanted to take a moment to thank David Risch for all 
of his hard work in putting this all together. In fact, he did such an 
amazing job, we think David should be voted in to organize one of these 
every year (a little closer to New York may be nice).


It was great to meet Rob Ball, especially at the reception, to ask him all 
sorts of questions about the 37+, especially on how a 40-footer got named 
a 37+ (as well as the 36-foot 34+). But, just being at a place with others 
who share the affinity for the C&C line made the trip worth it on its own.


Hope everyone has a safe, fun, voyage home. And, I'll say it again, let's 
do this next year too.


In the meantime, as you continue on your voyages, please remember our 
Prime Directive:


Wherever you may go, go boldly.


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
---
C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
---
Sent via iPad
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Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

[Joel Aronson]

Chuck,

They are dyneema or Spectra depending on what they have in stock.  The loop
is sewn together, not spliced.  I picked up a couple for low load uses such
as clipping a spinnaker bag or halyard to the bow pulpit.

Joel

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 6:21 AM, Chuck S  wrote:

> I would use mountain climbing gear if the load ratings were right.  Very
> good stuff made to support lives.
> The loops referenced seem to be made with nylon which is inherently
> stretchy.  Not sure if that is best for a boat?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> --
> *From: *"Joel Aronson" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Friday, September 21, 2012 10:13:49 AM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Spectra loops
>
>
> Has anyone tried these for attaching blocks etc?
>
> http://www.rei.com/product/474003/bluewater-titanspectra-runner-916
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Tim Goodyear]

Joel,

My clutches mount right on the deck, not on raised bases.  That may have
been changed when the traveler was moved to the cockpit, but looks original
to me.  I replaced all my originals two years ago - your halyards will
thank you...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Sun, Sep 23, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Arrgh!  I think you are right!It looks like all of the modern
> clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait until I have
> time to make a new base.
> Recommendations for clutches and base materials?
>
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
>
>  On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain 
> wrote:
>
> > If its original Schaefer 
> >
> > Paul. :)
> >
> >
> > On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> >
> >> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part of a triple on the
> >> cabin top.
> >> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.  Its not spinlock
> >> lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd like to make the
> >> replacement as painless as possible.
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> Joel
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Dennis C.]

Lewmar!!!  The design is more gentle on the cover of the lines.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

From: Joel Aronson 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 8:01 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches
>
>Arrgh!  I think you are right!    It looks like all of the modern
>clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait until I have
>time to make a new base.
>Recommendations for clutches and base materials?
>
>Joel
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>
>> If its original Schaefer 
>>
>> Paul. :)
>>
>>
>> On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>
>>> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part of a triple on the
>>> cabin top.
>>> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.  Its not spinlock
>>> lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd like to make the
>>> replacement as painless as possible.
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Paul Fountain]

No, mine were right on the deck, but I would use starboard (or Kingboard) if
I had redone blocks.

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: September-23-12 9:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

Paul,

Did you replace the wood bases?  What did you use?

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 23, 2012, at 9:14 PM, Paul Fountain 
wrote:

> At the strong recommendation of our sail maker the schaefers were replaced
with lewmars 10 years ago - no regrets and no additional wear on the lines.
4 banks of 3 ...
>
> Paul. :)
>
>
> On 2012-09-23, at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
>> Arrgh!  I think you are right!It looks like all of the modern
>> clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait until I have 
>> time to make a new base.
>> Recommendations for clutches and base materials?
>>
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain 
wrote:
>>
>>> If its original Schaefer 
>>>
>>> Paul. :)
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>>
 One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part of a triple on 
 the cabin top.
 There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.  Its not 
 spinlock lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd like to 
 make the replacement as painless as possible.
 Thanks!

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
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>>>
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>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Gary Nylander]

I replaced a spinlock with a Garhauer. Works great, now I need to replace the 
rest, because the Garhauer is different.
Gary Nylander
30-1
St. Michaels. MD
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck S 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 6:28 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches


  Sounds like you have the first generation clutches which were small and hard 
on line.  If you can afford it, you should replace all of the clutches with 
newer Spinlocks or Lewmars.  They are so much better, easier to use, and easier 
on the line.  


  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Atlantic City, NJ


--
  From: "Paul Fountain" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:14:01 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

  At the strong recommendation of our sail maker the schaefers were replaced 
with lewmars 10 years ago - no regrets and no additional wear on the lines. 4 
banks of 3 ... 

  Paul. :)


  On 2012-09-23, at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

  > Arrgh!  I think you are right!It looks like all of the modern
  > clutches have longer bases.  This one may have to wait until I have
  > time to make a new base.
  > Recommendations for clutches and base materials?
  > 
  > Joel
  > Sent from my iPad
  > 
  > On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain  
wrote:
  > 
  >> If its original Schaefer 
  >> 
  >> Paul. :)
  >> 
  >> 
  >> On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
  >> 
  >>> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot.  It is part of a triple on the
  >>> cabin top.
  >>> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer.  Its not spinlock
  >>> lewmar or easylock.  Any other possibilities?  I'd like to make the
  >>> replacement as painless as possible.
  >>> Thanks!
  >>> 
  >>> Joel
  >>> Sent from my iPad
  >>> 
  >>> ___
  >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
  >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
  >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  >> 
  >> ___
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Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

[Rich Knowles]

I like it. You'd have to do two to keep the boat balanced. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-09-24, at 8:15, Wally Bryant  wrote:

If it were my boat, I'd disconnect the cable from the equipment in the Navpod 
and run it through the cable clam, then reconnect.  It can't be that hard to do 
it right.

Alternatively, one could get two or three caulk gun sized tubes of 5200, and do 
like Richard Dreyfuss in 'Close Encounters of the Third Kind' -- making a six 
or eight inch tall mound of caulk on the cabin top.  That should last six 
months to a year, and can always be blamed on the previous owner.

Wal

you wrote:
> the original problem was how to seal up a hole in the deck with the wires 
> already installed.


-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Holes in deck

[Wally Bryant]

If it were my boat, I'd disconnect the cable from the equipment in the 
Navpod and run it through the cable clam, then reconnect.  It can't be 
that hard to do it right.


Alternatively, one could get two or three caulk gun sized tubes of 5200, 
and do like Richard Dreyfuss in 'Close Encounters of the Third Kind' -- 
making a six or eight inch tall mound of caulk on the cabin top.  That 
should last six months to a year, and can always be blamed on the 
previous owner.


Wal

you wrote:

the original problem was how to seal up a hole in the deck with the wires 
already installed.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Rope clutches

[Chuck S]

Sounds like you have the first generation clutches which were small and hard on 
line. If you can afford it, you should replace all of the clutches with newer 
Spinlocks or Lewmars. They are so much better, easier to use, and easier on the 
line. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Paul Fountain"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:14:01 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rope clutches 

At the strong recommendation of our sail maker the schaefers were replaced with 
lewmars 10 years ago - no regrets and no additional wear on the lines. 4 banks 
of 3 ... 

Paul. :) 


On 2012-09-23, at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote: 

> Arrgh! I think you are right! It looks like all of the modern 
> clutches have longer bases. This one may have to wait until I have 
> time to make a new base. 
> Recommendations for clutches and base materials? 
> 
> Joel 
> Sent from my iPad 
> 
> On Sep 23, 2012, at 8:14 PM, Paul Fountain  
> wrote: 
> 
>> If its original Schaefer  
>> 
>> Paul. :) 
>> 
>> 
>> On 2012-09-23, at 8:00 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote: 
>> 
>>> One of the clutches on my 35/3 is shot. It is part of a triple on the 
>>> cabin top. 
>>> There is no name on it but it looks like a Garhauer. Its not spinlock 
>>> lewmar or easylock. Any other possibilities? I'd like to make the 
>>> replacement as painless as possible. 
>>> Thanks! 
>>> 
>>> Joel 
>>> Sent from my iPad 
>>> 
>>> ___ 
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> ___ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Spectra loops

[Chuck S]

I would use mountain climbing gear if the load ratings were right. Very good 
stuff made to support lives. 
The loops referenced seem to be made with nylon which is inherently stretchy . 
Not sure if that is best for a boat? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Joel Aronson " < joel . aronson @ gmail .com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:13:49 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Spectra loops 

Has anyone tried these for attaching blocks etc? 


http :// www . rei .com/product/474003/bluewater-titanspectra-runner-916 


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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