Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question

[Ron Kaye]

Cute.  

Rhode Warrior

Rhode Ann

Rhode Hog

Ron

On May 31, 2013, at 8:35 AM, "Hoyt, Mike"  wrote:

> Rhode Runner?
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lisa  Lias
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:04 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question
> 
> We needed a boat with more headroom and storage than our Rhodes 22 because we 
> enjoyed that boat so much we knew we wanted to overnight/take trips more. (So 
> bigger than 22)
> 
> We needed to be able to handle it with 2 of us. (Don't know the realistic 
> upper limit but we didn't look over 39 or so)
> 
> We wanted more sleeping space for ourselves and a bit if we brought anyone 
> who would be in to sleeping aboard. (Depends on the boat and the passenger 
> for that one. You can actually sleep 6 of people on a Rhodes 22. Not kidding)
> 
> Hot water. (Not specific to length but more than 22)
> 
> Real head. (See above)
> 
> Stove and fridge. (See above)
> 
> Well built. Not specific to length at all. 
> 
> And...I won't say our price limit but we bought a 1986 35 mk III. 
> 
> We don't race but we do like to get where we're going. She's a goer. And a 
> nice clean yanmar more than made up for the fact that the main isn't IMF like 
> the Rhodes was. 
> 
> We sold the Rhodes with a clear conscience. She was not any form of lemon. 
> But neither is the C&C and its easier to live on, with 2 or with more. 
> 
> Ron and Lisa
> (Name to be announced post ceremony)
> Rhode River MD
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 30, 2013, at 8:50 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> 
>> Hmm. Good list, but... If one is prone to indecision and second guessing, 
>> this simply adds to the huge pile of considerations to ponder before you can 
>> go sailing. Perhaps better to decide on a popular make like C&C that will be 
>> resellable, get a couple of knowledgeable friends you believe in, and go 
>> looking for a decent local boat in the price range you can tolerate. Buy it, 
>> go sailing, and learn from the experience. There are always bigger, better, 
>> faster and fancier boats out there, but you won't really know what you 
>> want/need until you have tried a couple. 
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On 2013-05-30, at 21:26, Joel Aronson wrote:
>> 
>> Nice list!
>> 
>> I might add PHRF, electronics, sail inventory, holding tank, pressure water, 
>> hot water heater.
>> 
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On May 30, 2013, at 8:19 PM, "Dennis C."  wrote:
>> 
>>> One of my crew is looking for a boat, his first.  I sent him a list of 
>>> things to consider.  Here's most of them.
>>> 
>>> Bridge clearance- friend of mine has a nice big boat that can't get under 
>>> several critical bridges leading to some prime sailing.  Touche' is even 
>>> too tall to get under some bridges where we sail
>>> How are the shrouds attached?  Most C&C's carry the shroud load to the 
>>> hull.  Many boats carry the load to a bulkhead.  I don't like that.
>>> Keel - fin, bulb, shoal, wing, full, centerboard, dagger board
>>> Anchor locker on foredeck?
>>> Fold down, pedestal or mast dinette table
>>> Split lower shrouds vs inline shrouds
>>> Straight vs swept back spreaders?
>>> Baby stay?
>>> Diesel vs gas?
>>> Folding or fixed prop?
>>> Head?  Shower?
>>> Tiller vs wheel?
>>> Propane stove?
>>> Mast head vs fractional?  If I was looking for a race boat today, I'd go 
>>> fractional
>>> Traveler location?  End boom, bridgedeck, cabintop?
>>> Big cockpit for entertaining?
>>> Straight drive vs V-drive?
>>> Fiberglass vs holly/teak sole?
>>> Opening ports?
>>> Sugar scoop transom, stern ladder, opening
>>> Fiberglass headliner vs vinyl headliner
>>> 
>>> The list goes on and on.
>>> 
>>> When I was shopping for my first boat, I was pretty ignorant.  I wanted a 
>>> wheel, diesel and shower.  Result?  First boat - 0 for 3.  Second boat had 
>>> a wheel.  :)
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
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>> 
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Stus-List non-skid paint-now table fiddles

[Dennis C.]

I replaced the screws for the fiddles on my dinette table with dowels. Now the 
fiddles can be easily removed.  Nice for working on a laptop or eating in a 
quiet marina. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2013, at 8:18 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> The nav table should have come with fiddles.  What were they thinking???
>  
> Jake
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson
> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 8:04 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>  
> Jake,
>  
> I considered it on my Pearson but was not confident in my skills, so I went 
> with Interlux paint.  With the pedestal etc. I'm not going to try.
>  
> One thing I may borrow from the J35s - they have a piece of teak about 1 inch 
> square bolted to the inboard edge of the seats as a cleat to make it easier 
> to get on the rail.  They are low enough that you can sit on them.  When I'm 
> in Bacon's I'll rummage in the back for some teak.  I also want to make a 
> fiddle for the nav table.  I forget to clean it off.  One tack and everything 
> slides off.
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Rick Bushie]

Joe, 

I have applied for a phrf for Anchovy and gotten approval from cbyra to run 
with sail #1. Plan to enter light race and join the festivities. Hope we don't 
embarrass ourselves. As of now, looks like our entire crew will include myself 
and my 11 year old son.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1, hull #1
Worton Creek, MD

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Joel Aronson]

Thanks.  I'll find an Ace store if I go with Kiwi.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On May 31, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:

Universal colorants aren't all the same; this is the Ace colorant chart.
This is for one gallon. For my boat specifically. No guarantees, money will
not be cheerfully refunded.

B 19
C 40
E 3





On 31 May 2013 07:34, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Yes, please!!
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Jim Watts wrote:
>
>> I used the colour-matching computer where I work and tinted up a batch of
>> Kiwi Grip to match the gelcoat. I haven't applied it yet, but when I tried
>> a bit on a hunk of boat I had lying around (from cutting out the opening
>> for the opening port over the galley sink) it disappeared. Looks like a
>> perfect match, but close is good enough; the KG will appear darker because
>> of texture, which is what I wanted. I can post the colorant mix if anyone
>> wants to tint to mid-80's deck colour.
>>
>>
>> On 31 May 2013 06:34,  wrote:
>>
>>>  Had a yard do my almost all meydeck with Kiwi this spring--looks great
>>> and the grip was enhanced forward of the mast for spinnaker work,eased
>>> somewhat aft for sitting, by the rolling technique.
>>>
>>> Yard guys had not worked with it before but liked it--plus it will go
>>> over whatever is there now without much if any surface preparation. I
>>> probably could have done the job myself and would
>>> certainly touch it up in the future should it need it.
>>>  It is pretty rough on bare knees now in the cockpit but I expect it to
>>> smooth out somewhat with use. My guess is that it is easier to make Kiwi
>>> aggressive than to make it less so--its all in the roller and the rolling
>>> technique.
>>>
>>> So far, so good.
>>>
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> Water Phantom
>>> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>>  cenel...@aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Gary Nylander 
>>> To: cnc-list 
>>> Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 9:18 am
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>>>
>>>  Penniless had a mat on the cockpit sole when I bought her. It was
>>> sticky but very hard on the knees when digging items out of the lazerettes
>>> or doing any work - and a bit ugly.
>>>
>>> I took it out and there is still some evidence of it nearly 20 years
>>> later. Just a light image.
>>>
>>> Two friends have applied KiwiGrip to their decks. A Cal 40 and a J-24.
>>> Both are happy - the traction is based on how you apply it - it comes with
>>> a funny looking grippy roller and if you work it hard you get some good
>>> spikes - maybe a little too much grip. I can report on the grippyness of
>>> the J-24 tomorrow, we sail it tonight. The Cal 40 is splashing today after
>>> a 2+ year refit.
>>>
>>> So far, the Kiwi seems to be a good answer, despite what PS says about
>>> it - and comparing it to a mat which will tear the skin off your kneecaps
>>> is a bit of a stretch.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>   - Original Message -
>>> *From:* Josh Muckley 
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:39 PM
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>>>
>>>  I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That
>>> publication that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip
>>> third place for traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees
>>> of incline.  Kiwi got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products
>>> that got 50+.  I lean away from the mats because I fear how they will wear
>>> and what will be left behind when they are gone.
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>
>>>  --
>>> When security matters.
>>> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>>> On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:
>>>
 I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
 fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
  I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
 possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

>>>  --
>>>  ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo 
>>> Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
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>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___

Re: Stus-List non-skid paint (Jake Brodersen), now Teak Blocks

[Jake Brodersen]

Alan,

 

I’m the same way.  I like driving from the low side.  I feel more in tune with 
the boat when I can see the whole genoa, where I’m going, and hear the water 
rush by my ear.

 

Please send me a couple of pics.  Would love to see them.  captain_j...@cox.net

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Bergen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint (Jake Brodersen), now Teak Blocks

 

Jake:

I usually drive from the lee side, but when I have to drive from the high side 
in heavier air, teak blocks near the helm really help, and they don't get in 
the way.  I can send a picture if you like.

Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

 

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Jake Brodersen]

The nav table should have come with fiddles.  What were they thinking???

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 8:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

 

Jake,

 

I considered it on my Pearson but was not confident in my skills, so I went
with Interlux paint.  With the pedestal etc. I'm not going to try.

 

One thing I may borrow from the J35s - they have a piece of teak about 1
inch square bolted to the inboard edge of the seats as a cleat to make it
easier to get on the rail.  They are low enough that you can sit on them.
When I'm in Bacon's I'll rummage in the back for some teak.  I also want to
make a fiddle for the nav table.  I forget to clean it off.  One tack and
everything slides off.

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Jim Watts]

Universal colorants aren't all the same; this is the Ace colorant chart.
This is for one gallon. For my boat specifically. No guarantees, money will
not be cheerfully refunded.

B 19
C 40
E 3





On 31 May 2013 07:34, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Yes, please!!
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Jim Watts wrote:
>
>> I used the colour-matching computer where I work and tinted up a batch of
>> Kiwi Grip to match the gelcoat. I haven't applied it yet, but when I tried
>> a bit on a hunk of boat I had lying around (from cutting out the opening
>> for the opening port over the galley sink) it disappeared. Looks like a
>> perfect match, but close is good enough; the KG will appear darker because
>> of texture, which is what I wanted. I can post the colorant mix if anyone
>> wants to tint to mid-80's deck colour.
>>
>>
>> On 31 May 2013 06:34,  wrote:
>>
>>>  Had a yard do my almost all meydeck with Kiwi this spring--looks great
>>> and the grip was enhanced forward of the mast for spinnaker work,eased
>>> somewhat aft for sitting, by the rolling technique.
>>>
>>> Yard guys had not worked with it before but liked it--plus it will go
>>> over whatever is there now without much if any surface preparation. I
>>> probably could have done the job myself and would
>>> certainly touch it up in the future should it need it.
>>>  It is pretty rough on bare knees now in the cockpit but I expect it to
>>> smooth out somewhat with use. My guess is that it is easier to make Kiwi
>>> aggressive than to make it less so--its all in the roller and the rolling
>>> technique.
>>>
>>> So far, so good.
>>>
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> Water Phantom
>>> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>>  cenel...@aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Gary Nylander 
>>> To: cnc-list 
>>> Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 9:18 am
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>>>
>>>  Penniless had a mat on the cockpit sole when I bought her. It was
>>> sticky but very hard on the knees when digging items out of the lazerettes
>>> or doing any work - and a bit ugly.
>>>
>>> I took it out and there is still some evidence of it nearly 20 years
>>> later. Just a light image.
>>>
>>> Two friends have applied KiwiGrip to their decks. A Cal 40 and a J-24.
>>> Both are happy - the traction is based on how you apply it - it comes with
>>> a funny looking grippy roller and if you work it hard you get some good
>>> spikes - maybe a little too much grip. I can report on the grippyness of
>>> the J-24 tomorrow, we sail it tonight. The Cal 40 is splashing today after
>>> a 2+ year refit.
>>>
>>> So far, the Kiwi seems to be a good answer, despite what PS says about
>>> it - and comparing it to a mat which will tear the skin off your kneecaps
>>> is a bit of a stretch.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>   - Original Message -
>>> *From:* Josh Muckley 
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:39 PM
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>>>
>>>  I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That
>>> publication that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip
>>> third place for traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees
>>> of incline.  Kiwi got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products
>>> that got 50+.  I lean away from the mats because I fear how they will wear
>>> and what will be left behind when they are gone.
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>
>>>  --
>>> When security matters.
>>> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>>> On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:
>>>
 I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
 fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
  I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
 possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

>>>  --
>>>  ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo 
>>> Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>

Re: Stus-List non-skid paint (Jake Brodersen), now Teak Blocks

[Indigo]

The j109 that I race on frequently has two strips of plastic(?) 1/2in x 1/2 in 
x 12 inches that are glassed to the cockpit sole behind the wheel - in just the 
right spot to stop foot slide when sitting with the wheel between ones leg ( 
the forward foot is placed on the pedistal). They do not seem to get in the way 
when standing behind the wheel when going downwind

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On May 31, 2013, at 12:14, Alan Bergen  wrote:

> Jake:
> 
> I usually drive from the lee side, but when I have to drive from the high 
> side in heavier air, teak blocks near the helm really help, and they don't 
> get in the way.  I can send a picture if you like.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
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Re: Stus-List Where do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?

[Dennis C.]

On Touche' I sit where the Admiral tells me to.  :)

Not that familiar with the 30 but Touche' came with a 28 inch wheel.  Early on 
I changed it to a 32 inch wheel.  

When we got serious about racing, I changed to a 36 inch wheel so the driver 
could sit outboard on the cockpit coaming.

My usual driver sits on the low side because the view of the telltales is 
better on the 35-1.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Were do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?

[Antoine Rose]

It varies. On windward legs, light to moderate winds, on stern cockpit coaming, 
leeward, where I get a good view of the genoa telltales. Sometime on the on the 
cockpit seat, forward of the helm, same view. When it's blowing, on cockpit 
seat, wind ward side, where I can control the main traveller easily to de-power 
the main in gusts.
Downwind, behind the wheel, on the stern coaming. On longer passages, the 
windvane is steering. I sit everywhere.
Antoine (Cousin, C&C 30)


Le 2013-05-31 à 15:53, Curtis a écrit :

> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
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Re: Stus-List Buccaneer 18

[Chuck S]

Rick, 
Thanks so much for the nice reply on the Buccaneer 18. She sounds like 
everything I imagined. 
Some boats just look right for what they were designed and built for. The Buc 
looked right to my eye. Nice to hear the class is still going strong. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Rick Brass"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:31:37 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List No Messages - now Buccaneer 18 




The Buccaneer 18 - not to be confused with one of those Bayliner atrocities 
that is best put out of its misery at the first opportunity – is a stone hoot 
to sail. It is a planning hull so it isn’t uncommon to be doing 12 or 13 knots 
off the wind in 8 to 10 knots of breeze. All up in racing trim, to be class 
legal a boat cannot weigh less than something like 510 poinds. Very nimble, and 
responsive to crew performance. 



The jib is on a roller (there are several iterations, but the preferred version 
seems to be a Harken small boat furler) and the spin launches from a “snout” in 
the foredeck and gets sucked back through the snout and into a storage tube 
below the foredeck and port side deck by a dousing line attached to the center 
of the chute. So sail handling is reasonably easy. The cockpit is long and 
narrow – and you can’t really use the aft 1/3 or so of the cockpit because of 
the need to keep crew weight centered in the boat. It is a pretty athletic 
boat, with the centerboard trunk and lines in the way of the crew, and a pretty 
low boom and vang. 



I mostly crew on a buddies boat, though I did race his second boat one year to 
5 th or 6 th place in the B division of the Buccaneer nationals. It was really 
fun to be in a one design class race with about 30 competitors. The people in 
the class association are very friendly and helpful – and are spread out over 
the country. The boat has been in production since the first Chrysler boats in 
the late 60s/early 70s. Current boats produced by Nichols have sail numbers in 
the mid-5000 range, but I think there are some gaps in hull numbers between the 
various manufacturers. You can probably find one pretty inexpensive, and the 
folks on the list will help you fix it up. I think there are one or two already 
restored/upgraded that are for sale by Bucc group members. 



One of the things I likes was the camaraderie of the group. Most camp out at 
regattas and the parties are pretty awesome. There is a get together in Alabama 
in the winter that is a beach launched regatta, but mostly for the purpose of 
having fun. It is a great group of people, a lot like the C&C owners on our 
list, but more gregarious. 



Now, all that said, when I decided to buy a dinghy to add to my fleet I bought 
a Tanzer 16. Wider cockpit, higher boom, better suited for old fat guys like 
myself. Not as fast as a Bucc, but a lot of fun to sail and well suited to a 
more leisurely Saturday afternoon sail. 



Rick Brass 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S 
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 9:54 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List No Messages 




Hi Rick, 
What's it like to sail a Buccaneer? I always liked that design. Looks roomy. 
Real shallow draft when centerboard tucks up inside. I found a couple locally 
for sail, but they were really beat up and neglected. Good boat? 





Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 


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Re: Stus-List Were do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?

[sam . c . salter]

At the back!   sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: CurtisSent: Friday, May 31, 2013 1:53 PMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Were do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?-- “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it tochange; the realist adjusts the sails.”___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Were do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?

[Ed Levert]

Curtis:

Either high or low side, knees in front of and behind the wheel. I'm larger 
than I care to admit.

Ed
C&C 30 Mk 1 Dreamgirl (For Sale)
C&C 34 Briar Patch 
New Orleans

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 2:53 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Were do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?

--
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the 
realist adjusts the sails."

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Stus-List Were do you sit to drive the C&C 30mk1?

[Curtis]

-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Stus-List now Teak Blocks

[Pete Shelquist]

Alan – I’ve been kicking that idea around and would appreciate a picture of 
what you’ve done.

 

Thx.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Bergen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 11:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint (Jake Brodersen), now Teak Blocks

 

Jake:

I usually drive from the lee side, but when I have to drive from the high side 
in heavier air, teak blocks near the helm really help, and they don't get in 
the way.  I can send a picture if you like.

Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys

[Curtis]

Thanks ED



On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 11:35 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Great blog! Almost as good as mine :-)
>
>
>  All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>
>
> On May 31, 2013, at 11:27 AM, Curtis  wrote:
>
> thanks for the reply.
>
>
>
> here is the Blog site. I have some photos there you can see the set up?
> there is a back adjhuster I have not messed with it at all. I dont
> know how to use it.
>
>
>
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com
>
>
> Thanks
>
> On 5/31/13, Gary Nylander  wrote:
>
> You have one of the stiffest boats C&C ever built. It will go well in light
> air with the 155 up to about 18 apparent (or so). It is good through waves,
> but gets stopped when they are steep and choppy in light stuff. It sails
> well in medium air and handles the heavier stuff pretty well, just get to a
> smaller jib and a reef in the main. The boat is driven mostly by the genoa.
> Depending on your local rules, the 170 may not be able to be used without
> penalty.
>
> It is best sailed with about 15 degrees of heel in your 14 knot stuff (flat
> bottom toward the back - needs to get a little on its side). There's debate
> about whether to reef the main first or go to the smaller genoa - I prefer
> the genoa change but have a dual track forestay, so that's easy. You don't
> want to get it too far over, because the rudder is not all that deep and
> you
> will get a lot of weather helm and it will slow you down. It is fun with
> the
> rail in the water, but not fast.
>
> From the serial number, it looks like you have a 1981 model, hull number
> 675
> - mine is 1980, number 593, but with a 2QM raw water cooled Yanmar. Yours
> looks like fresh water cooled.
>
> One thing to do is keep the stern out of the water - move your crew
> forward.
>
> You didn't mention if the rig has been changed to bring the lines back to
> the cockpit, if so, then it is more important to chase the crew forward.
> You
> also didn't say whether there are inboard jib tracks, adjustable backstay,
> etc. The boat will point better if you can get the jib clew off the rail,
> if
> the previous owner didn't install inboard tracks, think about it.
>
> However, it does not reach well if you sheet it inboard - I use outhauls to
> get the jib lead back to the rail when reaching and it makes a difference.
>
> There are a number of 30-1's on the list, and the folks who have them are
> pretty knowledgeable, so keep asking questions. It is a fun boat which will
> handle just about anything you can stand - one has crossed the Atlantic!!
>
> Gary Nylander
> Penniless #593
> Chesapeake Bay
>
>
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Curtis
>  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>  Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 10:08 AM
>  Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys
>
>
>  C&C 30 MK1  1981 all hank on yanmar 2gm. ZCC30675M81E
>
>
>  This is a new boat to me. I was wondering if I could get some feed back as
> to the general sailing ability of this boat. Like its ability in light,
> Moderate and heavy winds. How she is best sailed ect. The boat came with a
> Standard main and a reefing 115, A 135% a 155% a 170% and a Asymmetrical in
> a dousing sock. I was out this past weekend and was able to see 5.8 to 6.4
> with 14 knot winds using the 115%.
>Please keep in mind I am new at the big boat thing. My experience came
> form 30 years ago using the hobi-cat rigg
>
>
>
>  So any help in how to best sail her or your experience with its ability's
> and shore comings would be greatly appreciated. I sail the south Atlantic
> oceans and rivers so I mostly have light southerly winds.
>
>
>  Thanks again for your help and input.
>  CAPT, Burt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  --
>  “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>  ___
>  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> --
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Della Barba, Joe]

We had a club meeting last night and the board unanimously decided that 
provisional and out-of-area PHRF ratings can be used in the Race Over :)
Now supposedly the web-lady will get the dang web site fixed for entries this 
weekend.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
www.dellabarba.com
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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint (Jake Brodersen), now Teak Blocks

[Alan Bergen]

Jake: 

I usually drive from the lee side, but when I have to drive from the high side 
in heavier air, teak blocks near the helm really help, and they don't get in 
the way. I can send a picture if you like. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Frederick G Street]

One of the boats that launched with me on Tuesday just finished doing all the 
non-skid with Kiwi Grip, along with the bottom boards on his dinghy.  It looked 
nice and seemed to work well.  I've got a sample that I plan to use on my 
cockpit and anchor locker lids first; I'll let you know what I think after I 
give it a try.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 30, 2013, at 10:39 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That publication 
> that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip third place for 
> traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees of incline.  Kiwi 
> got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products that got 50+.  I lean 
> away from the mats because I fear how they will wear and what will be left 
> behind when they are gone.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys

[Edd Schillay]

Great blog! Almost as good as mine :-)



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website


On May 31, 2013, at 11:27 AM, Curtis  wrote:

> thanks for the reply.
> 
> 
> 
> here is the Blog site. I have some photos there you can see the set up?
> there is a back adjhuster I have not messed with it at all. I dont
> know how to use it.
> 
> 
> 
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> On 5/31/13, Gary Nylander  wrote:
>> You have one of the stiffest boats C&C ever built. It will go well in light
>> air with the 155 up to about 18 apparent (or so). It is good through waves,
>> but gets stopped when they are steep and choppy in light stuff. It sails
>> well in medium air and handles the heavier stuff pretty well, just get to a
>> smaller jib and a reef in the main. The boat is driven mostly by the genoa.
>> Depending on your local rules, the 170 may not be able to be used without
>> penalty.
>> 
>> It is best sailed with about 15 degrees of heel in your 14 knot stuff (flat
>> bottom toward the back - needs to get a little on its side). There's debate
>> about whether to reef the main first or go to the smaller genoa - I prefer
>> the genoa change but have a dual track forestay, so that's easy. You don't
>> want to get it too far over, because the rudder is not all that deep and you
>> will get a lot of weather helm and it will slow you down. It is fun with the
>> rail in the water, but not fast.
>> 
>> From the serial number, it looks like you have a 1981 model, hull number 675
>> - mine is 1980, number 593, but with a 2QM raw water cooled Yanmar. Yours
>> looks like fresh water cooled.
>> 
>> One thing to do is keep the stern out of the water - move your crew
>> forward.
>> 
>> You didn't mention if the rig has been changed to bring the lines back to
>> the cockpit, if so, then it is more important to chase the crew forward. You
>> also didn't say whether there are inboard jib tracks, adjustable backstay,
>> etc. The boat will point better if you can get the jib clew off the rail, if
>> the previous owner didn't install inboard tracks, think about it.
>> 
>> However, it does not reach well if you sheet it inboard - I use outhauls to
>> get the jib lead back to the rail when reaching and it makes a difference.
>> 
>> There are a number of 30-1's on the list, and the folks who have them are
>> pretty knowledgeable, so keep asking questions. It is a fun boat which will
>> handle just about anything you can stand - one has crossed the Atlantic!!
>> 
>> Gary Nylander
>> Penniless #593
>> Chesapeake Bay
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  - Original Message -
>>  From: Curtis
>>  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>  Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 10:08 AM
>>  Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys
>> 
>> 
>>  C&C 30 MK1  1981 all hank on yanmar 2gm. ZCC30675M81E
>> 
>> 
>>  This is a new boat to me. I was wondering if I could get some feed back as
>> to the general sailing ability of this boat. Like its ability in light,
>> Moderate and heavy winds. How she is best sailed ect. The boat came with a
>> Standard main and a reefing 115, A 135% a 155% a 170% and a Asymmetrical in
>> a dousing sock. I was out this past weekend and was able to see 5.8 to 6.4
>> with 14 knot winds using the 115%.
>>Please keep in mind I am new at the big boat thing. My experience came
>> form 30 years ago using the hobi-cat rigg
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  So any help in how to best sail her or your experience with its ability's
>> and shore comings would be greatly appreciated. I sail the south Atlantic
>> oceans and rivers so I mostly have light southerly winds.
>> 
>> 
>>  Thanks again for your help and input.
>>  CAPT, Burt
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  --
>>  “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
>> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> 
>>  ___
>>  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Spreader to deck measurement (lazy jacks)

[Marek Dziedzic]

I had a set of lazy jacks on my past C&C 24 and the only time the top of the 
main sail got snagged when raising the sail was when I was trying doing it in 
somewhat stiffer wind and not directly head to wind (which you are not supposed 
to do in the first place). With any cross wind the head of the main obviously 
goes off centre, but even worse, the lazy jacks are blown over the centre line 
and try finding the head of the main to snag it.

If you are head to wind, no issues.

Granted, on a 24 I was dealing with shorter mast and smaller main, but I cannot 
imagine that the mechanics of the lazy jacks on a bigger boat would be that 
different.

Marek (in Ottawa)___
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys

[Curtis]

thanks for the reply.



here is the Blog site. I have some photos there you can see the set up?
there is a back adjhuster I have not messed with it at all. I dont
know how to use it.



http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com


Thanks

On 5/31/13, Gary Nylander  wrote:
> You have one of the stiffest boats C&C ever built. It will go well in light
> air with the 155 up to about 18 apparent (or so). It is good through waves,
> but gets stopped when they are steep and choppy in light stuff. It sails
> well in medium air and handles the heavier stuff pretty well, just get to a
> smaller jib and a reef in the main. The boat is driven mostly by the genoa.
> Depending on your local rules, the 170 may not be able to be used without
> penalty.
>
> It is best sailed with about 15 degrees of heel in your 14 knot stuff (flat
> bottom toward the back - needs to get a little on its side). There's debate
> about whether to reef the main first or go to the smaller genoa - I prefer
> the genoa change but have a dual track forestay, so that's easy. You don't
> want to get it too far over, because the rudder is not all that deep and you
> will get a lot of weather helm and it will slow you down. It is fun with the
> rail in the water, but not fast.
>
> From the serial number, it looks like you have a 1981 model, hull number 675
> - mine is 1980, number 593, but with a 2QM raw water cooled Yanmar. Yours
> looks like fresh water cooled.
>
> One thing to do is keep the stern out of the water - move your crew
> forward.
>
> You didn't mention if the rig has been changed to bring the lines back to
> the cockpit, if so, then it is more important to chase the crew forward. You
> also didn't say whether there are inboard jib tracks, adjustable backstay,
> etc. The boat will point better if you can get the jib clew off the rail, if
> the previous owner didn't install inboard tracks, think about it.
>
> However, it does not reach well if you sheet it inboard - I use outhauls to
> get the jib lead back to the rail when reaching and it makes a difference.
>
> There are a number of 30-1's on the list, and the folks who have them are
> pretty knowledgeable, so keep asking questions. It is a fun boat which will
> handle just about anything you can stand - one has crossed the Atlantic!!
>
> Gary Nylander
> Penniless #593
> Chesapeake Bay
>
>
>
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: Curtis
>   To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>   Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 10:08 AM
>   Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys
>
>
>   C&C 30 MK1  1981 all hank on yanmar 2gm. ZCC30675M81E
>
>
>   This is a new boat to me. I was wondering if I could get some feed back as
> to the general sailing ability of this boat. Like its ability in light,
> Moderate and heavy winds. How she is best sailed ect. The boat came with a
> Standard main and a reefing 115, A 135% a 155% a 170% and a Asymmetrical in
> a dousing sock. I was out this past weekend and was able to see 5.8 to 6.4
> with 14 knot winds using the 115%.
> Please keep in mind I am new at the big boat thing. My experience came
> form 30 years ago using the hobi-cat rigg
>
>
>
>   So any help in how to best sail her or your experience with its ability's
> and shore comings would be greatly appreciated. I sail the south Atlantic
> oceans and rivers so I mostly have light southerly winds.
>
>
>   Thanks again for your help and input.
>   CAPT, Burt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   --
>   “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
>
> --
>
>
>   ___
>   This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>   http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>   CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>


-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Lazy jacks, etc.

[Frederick G Street]

My full bimini helps a lot with that…

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 30, 2013, at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> On a smaller boat it lands on the guests.  Kids don't like being covered in 
> dacron.
> 
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys

[Gary Nylander]

You have one of the stiffest boats C&C ever built. It will go well in light air 
with the 155 up to about 18 apparent (or so). It is good through waves, but 
gets stopped when they are steep and choppy in light stuff. It sails well in 
medium air and handles the heavier stuff pretty well, just get to a smaller jib 
and a reef in the main. The boat is driven mostly by the genoa. Depending on 
your local rules, the 170 may not be able to be used without penalty. 

It is best sailed with about 15 degrees of heel in your 14 knot stuff (flat 
bottom toward the back - needs to get a little on its side). There's debate 
about whether to reef the main first or go to the smaller genoa - I prefer the 
genoa change but have a dual track forestay, so that's easy. You don't want to 
get it too far over, because the rudder is not all that deep and you will get a 
lot of weather helm and it will slow you down. It is fun with the rail in the 
water, but not fast.

>From the serial number, it looks like you have a 1981 model, hull number 675 - 
>mine is 1980, number 593, but with a 2QM raw water cooled Yanmar. Yours looks 
>like fresh water cooled.

One thing to do is keep the stern out of the water - move your crew forward.

You didn't mention if the rig has been changed to bring the lines back to the 
cockpit, if so, then it is more important to chase the crew forward. You also 
didn't say whether there are inboard jib tracks, adjustable backstay, etc. The 
boat will point better if you can get the jib clew off the rail, if the 
previous owner didn't install inboard tracks, think about it.

However, it does not reach well if you sheet it inboard - I use outhauls to get 
the jib lead back to the rail when reaching and it makes a difference.

There are a number of 30-1's on the list, and the folks who have them are 
pretty knowledgeable, so keep asking questions. It is a fun boat which will 
handle just about anything you can stand - one has crossed the Atlantic!! 

Gary Nylander
Penniless #593
Chesapeake Bay




  - Original Message - 
  From: Curtis 
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 10:08 AM
  Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys


  C&C 30 MK1  1981 all hank on yanmar 2gm. ZCC30675M81E


  This is a new boat to me. I was wondering if I could get some feed back as to 
the general sailing ability of this boat. Like its ability in light, Moderate 
and heavy winds. How she is best sailed ect. The boat came with a Standard main 
and a reefing 115, A 135% a 155% a 170% and a Asymmetrical in a dousing sock. I 
was out this past weekend and was able to see 5.8 to 6.4 with 14 knot winds 
using the 115%.
Please keep in mind I am new at the big boat thing. My experience came form 
30 years ago using the hobi-cat rigg 



  So any help in how to best sail her or your experience with its ability's and 
shore comings would be greatly appreciated. I sail the south Atlantic oceans 
and rivers so I mostly have light southerly winds. 


  Thanks again for your help and input.
  CAPT, Burt






  -- 
  “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
the realist adjusts the sails.” 


--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Stus-List non-skid paint

[Tom B]

We used Kiwigrip on our old 35 MK1 and it was great.  Just a light sanding.  We 
took a plug from some repair I had done to the local paint store to get a 
perfect match.  Get their applicator roller, it's well worth it.  Clean, light 
sanding and masking took more time than the application.  We saw her last 
weekend when we were in Olympia and the deck still looks new 2 years later.

Here's what it looked like.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/5747552249/

Tom Buscaglia
Alera, C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA


On May 31, 2013, at 5:10 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 23:39:10 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That publication
> that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip third place
> for traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees of incline.
> Kiwi got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products that got 50+.  I
> lean away from the mats because I fear how they will wear and what will be
> left behind when they are gone.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> -- 
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:
> 
>> I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
>> fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
>> I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
>> possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?
>> 
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
> -- next part --
> 
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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Joel Aronson]

Jim,

Yes, please!!

Joel


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Jim Watts  wrote:

> I used the colour-matching computer where I work and tinted up a batch of
> Kiwi Grip to match the gelcoat. I haven't applied it yet, but when I tried
> a bit on a hunk of boat I had lying around (from cutting out the opening
> for the opening port over the galley sink) it disappeared. Looks like a
> perfect match, but close is good enough; the KG will appear darker because
> of texture, which is what I wanted. I can post the colorant mix if anyone
> wants to tint to mid-80's deck colour.
>
>
> On 31 May 2013 06:34,  wrote:
>
>>  Had a yard do my almost all meydeck with Kiwi this spring--looks great
>> and the grip was enhanced forward of the mast for spinnaker work,eased
>> somewhat aft for sitting, by the rolling technique.
>>
>> Yard guys had not worked with it before but liked it--plus it will go
>> over whatever is there now without much if any surface preparation. I
>> probably could have done the job myself and would
>> certainly touch it up in the future should it need it.
>>  It is pretty rough on bare knees now in the cockpit but I expect it to
>> smooth out somewhat with use. My guess is that it is easier to make Kiwi
>> aggressive than to make it less so--its all in the roller and the rolling
>> technique.
>>
>> So far, so good.
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>  cenel...@aol.com
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Gary Nylander 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 9:18 am
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>>
>>  Penniless had a mat on the cockpit sole when I bought her. It was
>> sticky but very hard on the knees when digging items out of the lazerettes
>> or doing any work - and a bit ugly.
>>
>> I took it out and there is still some evidence of it nearly 20 years
>> later. Just a light image.
>>
>> Two friends have applied KiwiGrip to their decks. A Cal 40 and a J-24.
>> Both are happy - the traction is based on how you apply it - it comes with
>> a funny looking grippy roller and if you work it hard you get some good
>> spikes - maybe a little too much grip. I can report on the grippyness of
>> the J-24 tomorrow, we sail it tonight. The Cal 40 is splashing today after
>> a 2+ year refit.
>>
>> So far, the Kiwi seems to be a good answer, despite what PS says about it
>> - and comparing it to a mat which will tear the skin off your kneecaps is a
>> bit of a stretch.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>>   - Original Message -
>> *From:* Josh Muckley 
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:39 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>>
>>  I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That
>> publication that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip
>> third place for traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees
>> of incline.  Kiwi got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products
>> that got 50+.  I lean away from the mats because I fear how they will wear
>> and what will be left behind when they are gone.
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>>  --
>> When security matters.
>> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>> On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:
>>
>>> I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
>>> fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
>>>  I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
>>> possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>  --
>>  ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo 
>> Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Jim Watts]

I used the colour-matching computer where I work and tinted up a batch of
Kiwi Grip to match the gelcoat. I haven't applied it yet, but when I tried
a bit on a hunk of boat I had lying around (from cutting out the opening
for the opening port over the galley sink) it disappeared. Looks like a
perfect match, but close is good enough; the KG will appear darker because
of texture, which is what I wanted. I can post the colorant mix if anyone
wants to tint to mid-80's deck colour.


On 31 May 2013 06:34,  wrote:

> Had a yard do my almost all meydeck with Kiwi this spring--looks great and
> the grip was enhanced forward of the mast for spinnaker work,eased somewhat
> aft for sitting, by the rolling technique.
>
> Yard guys had not worked with it before but liked it--plus it will go over
> whatever is there now without much if any surface preparation. I probably
> could have done the job myself and would
> certainly touch it up in the future should it need it.
>  It is pretty rough on bare knees now in the cockpit but I expect it to
> smooth out somewhat with use. My guess is that it is easier to make Kiwi
> aggressive than to make it less so--its all in the roller and the rolling
> technique.
>
> So far, so good.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>  cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Nylander 
> To: cnc-list 
> Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 9:18 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>
>  Penniless had a mat on the cockpit sole when I bought her. It was sticky
> but very hard on the knees when digging items out of the lazerettes or
> doing any work - and a bit ugly.
>
> I took it out and there is still some evidence of it nearly 20 years
> later. Just a light image.
>
> Two friends have applied KiwiGrip to their decks. A Cal 40 and a J-24.
> Both are happy - the traction is based on how you apply it - it comes with
> a funny looking grippy roller and if you work it hard you get some good
> spikes - maybe a little too much grip. I can report on the grippyness of
> the J-24 tomorrow, we sail it tonight. The Cal 40 is splashing today after
> a 2+ year refit.
>
> So far, the Kiwi seems to be a good answer, despite what PS says about it
> - and comparing it to a mat which will tear the skin off your kneecaps is a
> bit of a stretch.
>
> Gary
>
>   - Original Message -
> *From:* Josh Muckley 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:39 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>
>  I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That
> publication that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip
> third place for traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees
> of incline.  Kiwi got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products
> that got 50+.  I lean away from the mats because I fear how they will wear
> and what will be left behind when they are gone.
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
>  --
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:
>
>> I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
>> fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
>>  I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
>> possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?
>>
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>  --
>  ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo 
> Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Stus-List C&C30 MK1 racing abilitys

[Curtis]

C&C 30 MK1  1981 all hank on yanmar 2gm. ZCC30675M81E

This is a new boat to me. I was wondering if I could get some feed back as
to the general sailing ability of this boat. Like its ability in light,
Moderate and heavy winds. How she is best sailed ect. The boat came with a
Standard main and a reefing 115, A 135% a 155% a 170% and a Asymmetrical in
a dousing sock. I was out this past weekend and was able to see 5.8 to 6.4
with 14 knot winds using the 115%.
  Please keep in mind I am new at the big boat thing. My experience came
form 30 years ago using the hobi-cat rigg

So any help in how to best sail her or your experience with
its ability's and shore comings would be greatly appreciated. I sail the
south Atlantic oceans and rivers so I mostly have light southerly winds.

Thanks again for your help and input.
CAPT, Burt



-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[cenelson]

Had a yard do my almost all meydeck with Kiwi this spring--looks great and the 
grip was enhanced forward of the mast for spinnaker work,eased somewhat aft for 
sitting, by the rolling technique.

Yard guys had not worked with it before but liked it--plus it will go over 
whatever is there now without much if any surface preparation. I probably could 
have done the job myself and would
certainly touch it up in the future should it need it.

It is pretty rough on bare knees now in the cockpit but I expect it to smooth 
out somewhat with use. My guess is that it is easier to make Kiwi aggressive 
than to make it less so--its all in the roller and the rolling technique.

So far, so good.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Gary Nylander 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 9:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint



Penniless had a mat on the cockpit sole when I bought her. It was sticky but 
very hard on the knees when digging items out of the lazerettes or doing any 
work - and a bit ugly.
 
I took it out and there is still some evidence of it nearly 20 years later. 
Just a light image.
 
Two friends have applied KiwiGrip to their decks. A Cal 40 and a J-24. Both are 
happy - the traction is based on how you apply it - it comes with a funny 
looking grippy roller and if you work it hard you get some good spikes - maybe 
a little too much grip. I can report on the grippyness of the J-24 tomorrow, we 
sail it tonight. The Cal 40 is splashing today after a 2+ year refit.
 
So far, the Kiwi seems to be a good answer, despite what PS says about it - and 
comparing it to a mat which will tear the skin off your kneecaps is a bit of a 
stretch.
 
Gary






- Original Message - 
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint


I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That publication that 
some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip third place for 
traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees of incline.  Kiwi 
got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products that got 50+.  I lean 
away from the mats because I fear how they will wear and what will be left 
behind when they are gone.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk


-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:

I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
 I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?

Joel
Sent from my iPad

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nc-l...@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Gary Nylander]

Penniless had a mat on the cockpit sole when I bought her. It was sticky but 
very hard on the knees when digging items out of the lazerettes or doing any 
work - and a bit ugly.

I took it out and there is still some evidence of it nearly 20 years later. 
Just a light image.

Two friends have applied KiwiGrip to their decks. A Cal 40 and a J-24. Both are 
happy - the traction is based on how you apply it - it comes with a funny 
looking grippy roller and if you work it hard you get some good spikes - maybe 
a little too much grip. I can report on the grippyness of the J-24 tomorrow, we 
sail it tonight. The Cal 40 is splashing today after a 2+ year refit.

So far, the Kiwi seems to be a good answer, despite what PS says about it - and 
comparing it to a mat which will tear the skin off your kneecaps is a bit of a 
stretch.

Gary


  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:39 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint


  I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That publication 
that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip third place for 
traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees of incline.  Kiwi 
got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products that got 50+.  I lean 
away from the mats because I fear how they will wear and what will be left 
behind when they are gone.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk



  -- 
  When security matters.
  http://www.secure-my-email.com

  On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:

I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
 I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?

Joel
Sent from my iPad

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--


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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Gary Nylander]

Take a look at KiwiGrip. I've seen two boats done with it and it looks good 
and is reasonably sticky.


Gary


Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update

[Hoyt, Mike]

Rick
 
Cannot find any images so wikll try to explain.
 
The threaded stud is attached to the chainplate and feeds up to a
cylinder that is approx 8 inches long.  This cylinder is permanently
attached to end of the rod but swivels on the rod.  To adjust you put a
wrench on this cyliner and turn it.  To lock this cylinder there are set
screws inset in it.  These set screws tend to rust over time and the
allen keey head of set screw becomes distorted or else the screws rust
or whatever in place.  This makes turning the cylinder (turnbuckle) very
difficult to impossible and necessitates drilling out the set screw
which then makes it impossible to pin the turnbuckle so it constantly
needs adjusting over the season to keep the rig tune.  This is
particularly aggravating when you are stepping or unstepping the mast
and one of the turnbuckles will not turn at all!
 
Mike 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 9:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update



Mike,

 

I'm curious. What did the original turnbuckles look like? 

 

These center pin turnbuckles are the only style I can recall ever seeing
on rod rigging.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 10:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update

 

http://images.addoway.com.s3.amazonaws.com/items/6526/846109/6526_3_3e88
69.jpg

 

Koobalibra is now in for the summer with mast up and the revised
turnbuckle system is in place. North Sails in Halifax coldwelded new
ends on the existing rod rigging for the six shrouds using the system
shown in the link above.  Essentially is a barrell on end of shroud and
on deck and a stud (for lack of better term) screws into these barrells.
Is almost the opposite of the open turnbuckle system used on many boats.

 

To adjust a flat head screw driver is inserted in the slot of the
barrell on end of the rod and a open wrench turns the stud. Is very
simple to adjust and an absolute dream compared to the original system.

 

The boat looks fabulous BTW with its new paint job.

 

Mike

Koobalibra Crew

C&C 115 59115

Halifax

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Hoyt, Mike]

To avoid this tape off the same area that was taped before.  The
contrast from smooth gelcoat to non skid area usually makes a slight
difference in shade appealing to the eye.

Kiwi grip is much gripper than Interlux Interdeck from what I have
heard.  Also have been told that season one with kiwi grip is very rough
on knees etc if on foredeck for example but gets nicer by year two.
Interdeck has a very fine grip (sand) so is easier on the body but not
as good for grip.  Both can be applied directly over existing
gelcoatnonskid with no primer.  You could prep and paint the cockpit
sole in an afternoon using Interdeck.

One alternative from Interlux is to use Brightsdides paint and add the
non skid additive and possibly flattening agent.  This gives you more
range of colours than Interdeck and is same thing.  

See this link for our previous boat done using Interlux Perfection Off
White with non skid additive and flattening agent.  Touch ups when gear
moved etc with Interlux Brightsides Off White with additive and
flattener - perfect match (note these are on googlepages and will ask if
you want to download)
https://ae4bcba2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/fulltilt2ca/po
rtmainwin.jpg
https://ae4bcba2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/fulltilt2ca/fu
lltilt2deck1.jpg


This link using Interdeck 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/Recore_Done_web.jpg

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Bina
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

A close match will always look like a repair. My tip, is that when you 
can't get an exact match, use contrast instead. That doesn't mean 
extreme opposite, it just means use a color that doesn't look like a 
failed attempt at a match. Maybe a very light gray. For the cockpit 
sole, I would probably also investigate some of the various materials 
that could be applied over the surface, such as plasdeck, or those 
interlocking rubber mats which are removable.

Bill Bina


On 5/30/2013 9:26 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
> I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
> fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
>   I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white"
as
> possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?
>
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>


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Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question

[Hoyt, Mike]

Rhode Runner?



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lisa
Lias
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question


We needed a boat with more headroom and storage than our Rhodes 22
because we enjoyed that boat so much we knew we wanted to overnight/take
trips more. (So bigger than 22)

We needed to be able to handle it with 2 of us. (Don't know the
realistic upper limit but we didn't look over 39 or so)

We wanted more sleeping space for ourselves and a bit if we brought
anyone who would be in to sleeping aboard. (Depends on the boat and the
passenger for that one. You can actually sleep 6 of people on a Rhodes
22. Not kidding)

Hot water. (Not specific to length but more than 22)

Real head. (See above)

Stove and fridge. (See above)

Well built. Not specific to length at all. 

And...I won't say our price limit but we bought a 1986 35 mk III. 

We don't race but we do like to get where we're going. She's a goer. And
a nice clean yanmar more than made up for the fact that the main isn't
IMF like the Rhodes was. 

We sold the Rhodes with a clear conscience. She was not any form of
lemon. But neither is the C&C and its easier to live on, with 2 or with
more. 

Ron and Lisa
(Name to be announced post ceremony)
Rhode River MD

Sent from my iPhone

On May 30, 2013, at 8:50 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:



Hmm. Good list, but... If one is prone to indecision and second
guessing, this simply adds to the huge pile of considerations to ponder
before you can go sailing. Perhaps better to decide on a popular make
like C&C that will be resellable, get a couple of knowledgeable friends
you believe in, and go looking for a decent local boat in the price
range you can tolerate. Buy it, go sailing, and learn from the
experience. There are always bigger, better, faster and fancier boats
out there, but you won't really know what you want/need until you have
tried a couple. 


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-30, at 21:26, Joel Aronson 
wrote:


Nice list!

I might add PHRF, electronics, sail inventory, holding tank,
pressure water, hot water heater.

Joel 
Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 8:19 PM, "Dennis C." 
wrote:



One of my crew is looking for a boat, his first.  I sent
him a list of things to consider.  Here's most of them.



Bridge clearance- friend of mine has a nice big boat
that can't get under several critical bridges leading to some prime
sailing.  Touche' is even too tall to get under some bridges where we
sail
How are the shrouds attached?  Most C&C's carry the
shroud load to the hull.  Many boats carry the load to a bulkhead.  I
don't like that.
Keel - fin, bulb, shoal, wing, full, centerboard, dagger
board
Anchor locker on foredeck?
Fold down, pedestal or mast dinette table

Split lower shrouds vs inline shrouds
Straight vs swept back spreaders?
Baby stay?

Diesel vs gas?
Folding or fixed prop?

Head?  Shower?
Tiller vs wheel?
Propane stove?
Mast head vs fractional?  If I was looking for a race
boat today, I'd go fractional
Traveler location?  End boom, bridgedeck, cabintop?
Big cockpit for entertaining?
Straight drive vs V-drive?
Fiberglass vs holly/teak sole?
Opening ports?
Sugar scoop transom, stern ladder, opening
Fiberglass headliner vs vinyl headliner



The list goes on and on.


When I was shopping for my first boat, I was pretty
ignorant.  I wanted a wheel, diesel and shower.  Result?  First boat - 0
for 3.  Second boat had a wheel.  :)



Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Reasonably priced transient slip

[Joel Aronson]

Rick

Had my boat at a private dock on Mill Creek, Annapolis last year.  Owner is
Susan Okula, sok...@mac.com.  Don't know if she has room.

Joel


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> I’m planning the logistics for my cruise to the Chesapeake and attending
> the rendezvous at CRYC. But I will need to drop the boat for about three
> weeks and return home in early July. 
>
> ** **
>
> I plan to leave the boat around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd
>  to do the Baltimore Light race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners
> rendezvous at CRYC, so I’m looking for a spot for the boat that is within
> reach of Baltimore and offers some cruising opportunities in the area.
> Something in the area between Solomons and Baltimore would seem practical.
> 
>
> ** **
>
> Can anyone give me a recommendation on a marina, club, or private dock
> that would be reasonably priced for a three week stay and also fairly
> accessible to transportation for the trip home?
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update

[Rick Brass]

Mike,

 

I'm curious. What did the original turnbuckles look like? 

 

These center pin turnbuckles are the only style I can recall ever seeing on
rod rigging.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 10:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update

 

http://images.addoway.com.s3.amazonaws.com/items/6526/846109/6526_3_3e8869.j
pg

 

Koobalibra is now in for the summer with mast up and the revised turnbuckle
system is in place. North Sails in Halifax coldwelded new ends on the
existing rod rigging for the six shrouds using the system shown in the link
above.  Essentially is a barrell on end of shroud and on deck and a stud
(for lack of better term) screws into these barrells.  Is almost the
opposite of the open turnbuckle system used on many boats.

 

To adjust a flat head screw driver is inserted in the slot of the barrell on
end of the rod and a open wrench turns the stud. Is very simple to adjust
and an absolute dream compared to the original system.

 

The boat looks fabulous BTW with its new paint job.

 

Mike

Koobalibra Crew

C&C 115 59115

Halifax

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Stus-List C&C 115 paint job

[Robert Abbott]

Dave is so happy with the new paint, he even put covers on his fenders 
the other evening.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/30 11:53 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:

Same colour Dwight. Beautiful job.  Seamasters I believe in Dartmouth


*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*dwight veinot

*Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:47 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update

Is she still red?

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Hoyt, Mike

*Sent:* May 30, 2013 11:01 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List C&C 115 turnbuckle update

http://images.addoway.com.s3.amazonaws.com/items/6526/846109/6526_3_3e8869.jpg

Koobalibra is now in for the summer with mast up and the revised 
turnbuckle system is in place. North Sails in Halifax coldwelded new 
ends on the existing rod rigging for the six shrouds using the system 
shown in the link above.  Essentially is a barrell on end of shroud 
and on deck and a stud (for lack of better term) screws into these 
barrells.  Is almost the opposite of the open turnbuckle system used 
on many boats.


To adjust a flat head screw driver is inserted in the slot of the 
barrell on end of the rod and a open wrench turns the stud. Is very 
simple to adjust and an absolute dream compared to the original system.


The boat looks fabulous BTW with its new paint job.

Mike

Koobalibra Crew

C&C 115 59115

Halifax



No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5869 - Release Date: 05/30/13



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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[David Drake]

I used Kiwi Grip  when I redid my entire deck .Three seasons later it still 
looks great .You have control of the amount of grip during application .I left 
the cockpit seating a little on the smooth side so that it was ,more 
comfortable  to sit on ,the cockpit sole and fore deck I put a much more 
agressive grit .You can control the grit by your roller technique and by 
leaving the coating to setup a little bit before you give it a final go with 
the roller.
I also have done 4 J 24s in our sailing school fleet and they have held up very 
well and are easy to clean .
I would highly recommend doing a couple of practise surfaces first to develope 
your desired grit 

DDrake 
73 JH 
C&C 26

On 2013-05-30, at 11:39 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I've heard good things about kiwi grip.  Anybody try it?  That publication 
> that some listers dislike with the initials PS gave kiwi grip third place for 
> traction.  If I remember right the ratings were in degrees of incline.  Kiwi 
> got 45. This was below two adhesive mat type products that got 50+.  I lean 
> away from the mats because I fear how they will wear and what will be left 
> behind when they are gone.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> 
> -- 
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> 
> On May 30, 2013 9:26 PM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:
>> I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
>> fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
>>  I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
>> possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?
>> 
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Reasonably priced transient slip

[Rick Brass]

I'm planning the logistics for my cruise to the Chesapeake and attending the
rendezvous at CRYC. But I will need to drop the boat for about three weeks
and return home in early July. 

 

I plan to leave the boat around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd
to do the Baltimore Light race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners
rendezvous at CRYC, so I'm looking for a spot for the boat that is within
reach of Baltimore and offers some cruising opportunities in the area.
Something in the area between Solomons and Baltimore would seem practical.

 

Can anyone give me a recommendation on a marina, club, or private dock that
would be reasonably priced for a three week stay and also fairly accessible
to transportation for the trip home?

 

Thanks

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Joel Aronson]

Jake,

I considered it on my Pearson but was not confident in my skills, so I went
with Interlux paint.  With the pedestal etc. I'm not going to try.

One thing I may borrow from the J35s - they have a piece of teak about 1
inch square bolted to the inboard edge of the seats as a cleat to make it
easier to get on the rail.  They are low enough that you can sit on them.
 When I'm in Bacon's I'll rummage in the back for some teak.  I also want
to make a fiddle for the nav table.  I forget to clean it off.  One tack
and everything slides off.


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 6:55 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:

> Joel,
>
> ** **
>
> I have often thought of using the Plasteak for the cockpit sole and the
> seating areas. It looks good and will make a good non-skid area as well.
> My only concern would be with the heat of summer that I couldn’t go
> barefoot anymore…  My non-skid is pretty smooth at the helm.  I thought a
> teak block or two might help, but I didn’t want any more toe-stubbers in
> the cockpit either!
>
> ** **
>
> Jake
>
> ** **
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Midnight Mistress*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> *   *
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940]**
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C.
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 9:47 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List non-skid paint
>
> ** **
>
> Joel,
>
> You ain't gonna like my opinion.
>
> Rent a gelcoat color book from fibreglast.com, $5.  Match the color and
> order a gallon of tinted gelcoat.  Double-tape the cockpit sole.  Mix up
> the gelcoat with some colloidal silica and roll it on with a resin
> resistant roller.  Finish by rolling in one direction.  Wait until the
> gelcoat begins to harden a bit and pull the tape.
>
> Voila!  Factory non-skid.
>
> It really is that easy.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Jake Brodersen]

Joel,

 

I have often thought of using the Plasteak for the cockpit sole and the
seating areas. It looks good and will make a good non-skid area as well.  My
only concern would be with the heat of summer that I couldn't go barefoot
anymore.  My non-skid is pretty smooth at the helm.  I thought a teak block
or two might help, but I didn't want any more toe-stubbers in the cockpit
either!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 9:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

 

Joel,

You ain't gonna like my opinion.

Rent a gelcoat color book from fibreglast.com, $5.  Match the color and
order a gallon of tinted gelcoat.  Double-tape the cockpit sole.  Mix up the
gelcoat with some colloidal silica and roll it on with a resin resistant
roller.  Finish by rolling in one direction.  Wait until the gelcoat begins
to harden a bit and pull the tape.

Voila!  Factory non-skid.

It really is that easy.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List non-skid paint

[Bill Bina]

A close match will always look like a repair. My tip, is that when you 
can't get an exact match, use contrast instead. That doesn't mean 
extreme opposite, it just means use a color that doesn't look like a 
failed attempt at a match. Maybe a very light gray. For the cockpit 
sole, I would probably also investigate some of the various materials 
that could be applied over the surface, such as plasdeck, or those 
interlocking rubber mats which are removable.


Bill Bina


On 5/30/2013 9:26 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

I want to paint the cockpit sole with non-skid paint.  The original
fiberglass is fine at 15 degrees of heel, not so grippy at 25 degrees!
  I'd like the color to come as close to the original "almost white" as
possible.  Recommendations?  Tips?

Joel
Sent from my iPad

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