Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

2014-10-15 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
That is a cool upgrade and a super nice install..  As an alternative has anyone experimented with an ATN Tacker and Spinnaker Sleave?  I understand that you'd loose some performance with the Tacker but it seems like it would be worth a try, it's pretty cheap and easy.  I'm definitely getting both as I want to fly the spin with my wife and kids. The Tacker eliminates the big / heavy pole, the sock takes the drama out of deploying / retrieving.-Francois Rivard1990 34+ "Take Five"Lake Lanier, GaSent from IBM Notes Traveler
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 polars

2014-10-15 Thread Jim Watts via CnC-List
These are for the 3, not the 2, but should give you some idea.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UbnwcyZAcG4/VD8e9uiQxxI/CkM/xteY0mUYmXM/w1048-h822-no/C%26C%2B35%2BMk%2BIII%2Bpolar.jpg

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 October 2014 09:30, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi All,
> I have spent the last week sitting the couch recovering from a separated
> shoulder from a mountain bike fall. ( I got distracted watching a fat
> little black bear run away). This has given me way too much time on my
> hands and I started reading about sail trim. If I can’t go fast on my bike
> I might as well think about how to make Mithrandir go faster. I was
> wondering if anyone out there has the polars for a C&C 35 MkII?
> Thanks!!
>
> *Bill Hoyne*
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C&C35 MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread bobmor99 . via CnC-List
I used a roll of grey butyl "tape" from an RV store (along with the
original screws) to secure the aluminum portlight frames to the cabintop on
my 1976 33-1. Note these are old style portlights, not the newer frameless
acrylic(?) portlights that folks like to secure to the cabintop with
Sikaflex.. Any excess butyl was easily cleaned up with a razor blade.

Tip: Cool it down to make it less sticky when working with it. I used the
refrigerator but next time would try the freezer.

I love butyl. If I had dentures I'd keep some in my medicine cabinet.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 9:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
> where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
> butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
> impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us
> of that?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

2014-10-15 Thread Charlie Nelson via CnC-List

I have played with doing something to my 36XL to reduce crew requirements plus 
to make it easier to cruise shorthanded.

My question is how many crew do you need to fly it when racing (vs the 
symmetrical chute)? 

Also, do you think the PHRF change was fair and what did it cost in parts?


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Eric Baumes 
To: cc-3436 ; cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Oct 15, 2014 2:09 pm
Subject: 34/36 bowsprit retrofit


Some pictures/write up from my bowsprit project.


http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project


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Re: Stus-List [Bulk] Re: Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread David Drake via CnC-List
Paint thinner works well to remove those pesky spots 

DDrake 
73 JH 
C&C 26

> On Oct 15, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think that may work right after installation, but at least in my case it 
> was a year or so B4 the mess occurred (Hot Summers) and then that is more 
> difficult. 
>  
> Regards,
>  
> Bill
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 4:16 PM
> To: Hoyt, Mike; C&C List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
>  
> Anybody have any luck using a small ball of fresh butyl to pick up the 
> residue and excess?
> 
> On Oct 15, 2014 9:34 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from 
> where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using 
> butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly 
> impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of 
> that?
>  
> Mike
> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>  
> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
I think that may work right after installation, but at least in my case it
was a year or so B4 the mess occurred (Hot Summers) and then that is more
difficult.  

 

Regards,

 

Bill 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 4:16 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

 

Anybody have any luck using a small ball of fresh butyl to pick up the
residue and excess?

On Oct 15, 2014 9:34 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 


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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Anybody have any luck using a small ball of fresh butyl to pick up the
residue and excess?
On Oct 15, 2014 9:34 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
> where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
> butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
> impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us
> of that?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

2014-10-15 Thread dwight via CnC-List
Nice job

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Baumes via CnC-List
Sent: October 15, 2014 3:09 PM
To: cc-3...@googlegroups.com; cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

 

Some pictures/write up from my bowsprit project.

 

http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4040/8356 - Release Date: 10/09/14

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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread dwight via CnC-List
I would agree with that.if I am apply new adhesive sealant I always wash the
area with a TSP solution then dry and swap with an acetone soaked rag and
let dry before apply the new stuff.even swipe the acetone rag over the
mating surface of the part 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Letsgo
Sailing via CnC-List
Sent: October 15, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

 

My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that
prevents proper sealing.  

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 






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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4040/8356 - Release Date: 10/09/14

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Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

2014-10-15 Thread Eric Baumes via CnC-List
Some pictures/write up from my bowsprit project.

http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Probably 202 would work.  Steering clear of butyl would also work

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Letsgo 
Sailing via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

 

My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
prevents proper sealing.  

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it 
from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using 
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly 
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of 
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 





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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
prevents proper sealing.

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
> The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it
> from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had
> been using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non
> skid and nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of
> cleaner/solvent that rids us of that?
>
> Mike
>
> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

2014-10-15 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Ha!  That's awesome!


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List  
Date: 10/15/2014  11:54 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Joel Aronson ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com,Marek Dziedzic 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls 
 
Sinkaflex  … wait for it ….
 
Tim
 
 Toronto
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 11:53 AM
To: Marek Dziedzic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls
 
Sinkaflex is good. Wear gloves. 
 
Joel

On Wednesday, October 15, 2014, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
How about rebedding the through hulls? Someone mentioned Sikaflex. Any 
recommendations? I know I have to do one of them this off-season (probably 
spring, though). The through- hull is marelon (if it matters).

Marek

-Original Message- From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

2014-10-15 Thread Tim Sippel via CnC-List
Sinkaflex  … wait for it ….

Tim

 Toronto

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 11:53 AM
To: Marek Dziedzic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

Sinkaflex is good. Wear gloves.

Joel

On Wednesday, October 15, 2014, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How about rebedding the through hulls? Someone mentioned Sikaflex. Any 
recommendations? I know I have to do one of them this off-season (probably 
spring, though). The through- hull is marelon (if it matters).

Marek

-Original Message- From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

2014-10-15 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sinkaflex is good. Wear gloves.

Joel

On Wednesday, October 15, 2014, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How about rebedding the through hulls? Someone mentioned Sikaflex. Any
> recommendations? I know I have to do one of them this off-season (probably
> spring, though). The through- hull is marelon (if it matters).
>
> Marek
>
> -Original Message- From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
> To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed
>
> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List
I left a roll of butyl on the boat this summer and it got hot. Now it is glued 
solid to the release paper and really really messy to try and scrape a bit off 
to use. Ugh. 

Steve
  - Original Message - 
  From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
  To: David Knecht ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 9:34 AM
  Subject: Stus-List Butyl


  The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from 
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using butyl 
would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly impossible 
to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of that?

   

  Mike

  Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

   



--


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Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Robert Abbott via CnC-List

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it 
from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had 
been using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non 
skid and nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of 
cleaner/solvent that rids us of that?


Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence



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Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
I use 5200 for through hulls

--- Original Message ---

From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

How about rebedding the through hulls? Someone mentioned Sikaflex. Any
recommendations? I know I have to do one of them this off-season (probably
spring, though). The through- hull is marelon (if it matters).

Marek

-Original Message-
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
You can buy button tape in grey

--- Original Message ---

From: "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 9:30 AM
To: "Dennis C." , "CnC CnC discussion list" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

I agree with either Lifeseal or Butyl. I used to use Lifeseal all the time, but 
now use butyl more often.  One tidbit I found recently is that you can buy both 
black and white butyl.  I used to shy away from butyl for deck things because I 
didn’t want the black runoff that sometimes occurs with black on deck/hull 
joints.  Since discovering white butyl, I use it much more.  Dave

On Oct 15, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I quit using 4200 a few years ago.  I use LifeSeal instead now.
>
> I think you could use either in this case.  If you choose butyl, order the 
> good stuff from here:
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>
> The butyl from RV stores tends to be stringy and doesn't work as well.
>
> My opinion is if the deck hardware will move or flex, use butyl, otherwise 
> use a curing sealant such as LifeSeal.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
I soaked the parts in xylene for a night and it clean the nice

--- Original Message ---

From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 9:34 AM
To: "David Knecht" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it
from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been
using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid
and nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent
that rids us of that?



Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence



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Re: Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread dwight via CnC-List
I use ordinary paint thinner, mineral spirits or whatever you want to call
that blend of short chain alkane hydrocarbons in the C10 to C16 range like
in kerosene or varsol.better than soap and water and the solvent evaporates
without harming most substrates.same for Sikaflex mess cleanups before it
cures.I got a feeling most people who use the tube calking like Lifeseal,
Sikaflesx or 3M 4200 torgue the fasteners too tight on initial
application.much better result if the final torque on the fasteners is done
2-3 days later.that lets a rubbery gasket form between the deck and the part
and after 2-3 days that gasket has some resistance to applied pressure yet
is still soft enough to be reshaped or compressed under applied pressure and
yet retain its cohesive integrety. 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: October 15, 2014 10:34 AM
To: David Knecht; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

 

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4040/8356 - Release Date: 10/09/14

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Stus-List Butyl

2014-10-15 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it
from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been
using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid
and nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent
that rids us of that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List
I agree with either Lifeseal or Butyl. I used to use Lifeseal all the time, but 
now use butyl more often.  One tidbit I found recently is that you can buy both 
black and white butyl.  I used to shy away from butyl for deck things because I 
didn’t want the black runoff that sometimes occurs with black on deck/hull 
joints.  Since discovering white butyl, I use it much more.  Dave

On Oct 15, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I quit using 4200 a few years ago.  I use LifeSeal instead now.
> 
> I think you could use either in this case.  If you choose butyl, order the 
> good stuff from here:  
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> 
> The butyl from RV stores tends to be stringy and doesn't work as well.
> 
> My opinion is if the deck hardware will move or flex, use butyl, otherwise 
> use a curing sealant such as LifeSeal.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
> 
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List rebed through-hulls

2014-10-15 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
How about rebedding the through hulls? Someone mentioned Sikaflex. Any 
recommendations? I know I have to do one of them this off-season (probably 
spring, though). The through- hull is marelon (if it matters).


Marek

-Original Message- 
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I quit using 4200 a few years ago.  I use LifeSeal instead now.

I think you could use either in this case.  If you choose butyl, order the
good stuff from here:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

The butyl from RV stores tends to be stringy and doesn't work as well.

My opinion is if the deck hardware will move or flex, use butyl, otherwise
use a curing sealant such as LifeSeal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
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> page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Dave said:



ha!  sometimes your fingers get away from you!  LOL

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: Dave Godwin , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 08:05:18 -0400

" he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
on…"

English much?

" he promised he would be using butyl when he puts the hardware back on…

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2014, at 07:53, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
> on…

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Over the years I've used 4200 5200 and that other stuff...I can't call the 
number off from sikaflex.  (although the sikaflex was below the water lime on a 
thru hull). Last time around I went with the butyl tape from mainsail's site.  
I set my new handrails, rebedded the traveler (after following mainsail's 
instructions for thru bolting) and my new hatch with it.  It is a little messy 
and kind of struggle to clean up the ooze for a nice neat job but, not a single 
leak for 2 years.  I'm going to pull the rest of the deck hardware this winter 
(if the boat doesn't sell of course!) and use the mainsail method to rebed them 
all.  I've probably got half of the deck hardware done so far. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: Kevin Driscoll , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 07:53:36 -0400

As of yesterday, I�m about 95% complete with yanking all the deck 
hardware off my boat and I am absolutely sold on butyl. I�ve been 
pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of it. Pretty much every installation 
that has used butyl is dry and no apparent rot at first inspection. There were 
a couple of newer hardware installations that used 4200 and there is evidence 
of leaking. I know the guy who did those installations and he promised he would 
going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back on�
 Of note, C&C did go the extra mile and chamfer the edges of all the holes 
during the build and I think that that made a big difference in sealing. The 
guy over at Maine Sail goes to great lengths to provide examples on how to do a 
good installation with butyl. My mast collar came out yesterday afternoon and 
the balsa core was a nice yellow and dry. Reassuring. Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin�s Overdue Refit
On Oct 15, 2014, at 1:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure 
that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
" he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
on…"

English much?

" he promised he would be using butyl when he puts the hardware back on…

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2014, at 07:53, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
> on…

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
As of yesterday, I’m about 95% complete with yanking all the deck hardware off 
my boat and I am absolutely sold on butyl. I’ve been pleasantly surprised by 
the effectiveness of it. Pretty much every installation that has used butyl is 
dry and no apparent rot at first inspection. There were a couple of newer 
hardware installations that used 4200 and there is evidence of leaking. I know 
the guy who did those installations and he promised he would going to be using 
butyl when he puts the hardware back on…

Of note, C&C did go the extra mile and chamfer the edges of all the holes 
during the build and I think that that made a big difference in sealing. The 
guy over at Maine Sail goes to great lengths to provide examples on how to do a 
good installation with butyl.

My mast collar came out yesterday afternoon and the balsa core was a nice 
yellow and dry. Reassuring.

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Oct 15, 2014, at 1:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 
> 
> Thanks
> Kevin
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 29

2014-10-15 Thread Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List
Hi Larry,

I have the wing keel. With its 5'6", it help to go almost everywhere around 
here (lake Ontario).

Pierre Tremblay 
Avalanche #54988 
C&C38-3 WK, hull #76
 


 De : Douglas via CnC-List 
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : lundi 13 octobre 2014 17h14
Objet : Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 29
  

Pierre
Three of us, wow
She be a full fin keel.
How about yours
Larry___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 34 Spray Apron

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
I would remove the balsa core and close it back up. Then inject West Systems
epoxy with slow cure hardener. Becomes solid core and no more problems.  It
worked for my and all the repairs I have done for others.

Yanni 
boatless in Ontario

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
via CnC-List
Sent: October 14, 2014 8:32 PM
To: 'John and Maryann Read'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'John and Maryann Read';
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 34 Spray Apron

It's the screw-on cover over the sliding companionway hatch.
Mine is spongy to step on and it seems like it should be rigid. Am guessing
it needs core replacement?

Steve



-Original Message-
From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnpr...@comcast.net]
Sent: October-14-14 7:37 PM
To: 'OldSteveH'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List C&C 34 Spray Apron

OK I'll bite - what is a spray apron??

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 4:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 34 Spray Apron

Does anyone know if the spray apron has balsa core?
Mine feels soft, but am unsure if it just feels soft because its thin. I
don't want to remove it if that's all it is.

Thanks

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON





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Re: Stus-List Solar panels and charge controllers

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
I used two Kyocera 130 watt PV panels. The Morning star controller gave me some 
problems every once in a while  would shut down and the batteries will 
discharge when I was away for few days. I never figured that out. 

 

Yanni

boatless in Ontario.

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: October 14, 2014 8:27 AM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar panels and charge controllers

 

You might be well advised to look at Sailboat Owners forum, where this has been 
discussed multiple times (e.g. here: 
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1149325 

 &highlight=solar%20panel). Also, a good read here: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel.

 

There are various reports on using the cheap panels vs. the high quality 
expensive. Apparently, the expensive ones are most often produced in the same 
factory, on the same production line; however, they are thoroughly tested, so 
that all cells are working properly and produce equal amounts of energy. The 
cheap ones are the ones that did not make it through that QA.

 

Don’t skimp on controller(s). There are well documented reports showing that 
some can deliver substantially more energy (15% or even 20% more), which is 
especially important if you are using the solar panels to top up your batteries.

 

>From what I read, GenaSun controllers have the best opinion (price per 
>performance). Morning Star controllers (supposedly) are also quite good (this 
>is what I have).

 

Some controllers offer dual battery connection (with 50-50 or 90-10 split). If 
I were doing it again, I would install a simple controller (going to the house 
side) and an Echo Charger to charge the starting (spare) battery, as needed.

 

I don’t think you need a “dump load”, if you connect it directly to the 
batteries.

 

If you use multiple controllers, you will have some fun in controlling them, as 
they would see the wrong voltage on the battery (they would see the combined 
voltage of all controllers; rather than the battery itself). However, I don’t 
think you need any diodes, as they all have this protection built in (so the 
battery cannot feed the panel).

 

have fun

 

Marek

s/v “Legato”

in Ottawa

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 5:43 AM

To: C  &C List 

Subject: Stus-List Solar panels and charge controllers

 

Hey folks,

I'm looking to add solar panels to my boat.  I have a new hard top dodger that 
will be a great place to mount some flexible panels.  I realize that attention 
will have to be given to the boom so that it's shadow it minimized.  I've given 
consideration to the fact that some shadow is likely inevitable.  My 
understanding is that one large solar panel can have a substantial drop in it's 
output or be completely disabled if only a relatively small shadow is cast.  As 
such I am planning for 4 smaller 50w panels instead of 2 100w panels.  The idea 
being that a small shadow will only disable 1 or 2 of the panels at a time.  
This design also adds reliability such that a mechanical or electrical failure 
of a single panel doesn't disable the entire system.  Additionally, a smaller 
panel is easier to replace and cost less.

To ensure reliability I was also planning to NOT creat an array of series and 
parallel panels going to one controller but rather each panel to its own 
controller.  I believe the current recommendation is to use MPPT over PWM?

There is a wide range of prices for panels and controllers but I'm having a 
hard time determining which ones are a good value.  I know you get what you pay 
for but over paying is silly.  At the boat show, 50w, semi-flexible, >20% 
efficient, monocrystalline panels were going for as much as $500!  I've seen 
charge controllers as high as $250.  I know there are a few ebay haters here 
but the comparable panels I found were $125 and 20A MPPT controllers for $11 
with free shipping.  Is there something I'm missing?

Besides disparaging comments about ebay or about me being cheap, does anyone 
have any insights about the design or component selection.  

I was originally pursuing a multi-channel controller but it seems no one makes 
them.

When using multiple (4) controllers do they need to be diode separated from the 
battery?  

What about the dump load?  I plan to use a single 200w resistive heater. Would 
it need to be diode separated from ea

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm20 crush washers?

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
Kevin,
You can re-use the old ones if you heat them up red hot attached to a wire
0n your stove top and dip them in cold water. Copper becomes aoft an pliable
again.

Yanni
92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: October 15, 2014 1:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list com; cnc-list@cnc-list com
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm20 crush washers?

Anybody happen to know what copper crush washers to buy for Yanmar 2gm20?
The banjo fittings on my secondary fuel filter is weeping. I'd prefer not to
take it apart to find out since we are out on the boat so often. Like to
have therm in hand before starting the replacement. There may be others I
imagine.

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
Kevin,
 I used both at different applications.  For hatches and other deck to metal
(stainless or aluminum) like stanchions and fittings I prefer butyl tape,
stays "live" and it is done properly on a clean surface lasts a long time. I
found that butyl must not be exposed to sun or UV rays. It dries  and pills
off dragging out the softer sandwiched material as opposed to the 4200/5200
that will stick an will never get it out again.

Yanni 
Boatless in Ontario

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List; Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
I will second the butyl tape recommendation.  I removed my cabin top hatch
this weekend.  The original butyl tape was solidly adhered to the hatch and
deck.  I was able to separate it from the deck with a putty knife, but it
took a fair amount of force.  A long time ago I used Pompanette's "hatch
tape" on my foredeck hatch and have had several seeps around the edges.  It
will get rebedded with butyl soon.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

2014-10-15 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I'm sold on butyl.  Just make sure you re torque a couple days later and
then re torque again.  It will be easier to replace next time too.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 15, 2014 1:35 AM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
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>
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