Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Airplanes only get grounded on mountains though.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL

  From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 4:29 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report
   
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{}#yiv1095826029 That kind of mistake REALLY hurts in an airplane  


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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Oh! That makes sense.

My brain read Aires comment as "generic engineering"...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:45 PM 11/03/2015, you wrote:

h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



--
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this 
list.  This group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, 
not just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what 
gets this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well 
each works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting 
wrenches dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the 
bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave



Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[]

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Stus-List bottom paints

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike:

After what I heard on this list this week, when I run out of Micron 66, 
heaven forbid, I will use Amercoat ABC 4..and it doesn't cost as 
much as Micron CSC.


Still gotta a year to find a new supply of 66like they say, 
necessity is the ??


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-03-11 6:42 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:

Mike

If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's 
experience...use Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is 
quite meticulous about Azura and he follows manufacturer's directions 
well...one year he had so much growth on his prop (2 blade fixed) in 
late september that the boat had a hard time making headway under 
power...the prop was foulded extremley bad...next year Bob asked this 
list for advice with his prop fouling issue...I knew he had such good 
results with Micron 66 on Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he 
didn't mind having a painted black prop before launch rather than 
shiny bronze he could just try painting it as well with Micron 66...I 
believe he did paint the prop and achieved good results...something 
about the critters in the Northwest Arm, very prolific... and somewhat 
resitant to normal copper oxide toxins...Micron 66 might just have the 
right copper toxins and added biocide for the moment...but those 
critters adapt to their environment so this coming season may be 
different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes, think you 
could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron CSC, 
Amercoat ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look 
somewhere esle for bigger gains, the performance of thse paints are 
quite similar...if your boat's bottom is in top notch shape go for one 
with multiyear ablative properties and do the job once ever 3-4 years 
instead of every year, like i do.
The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost 
of some antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per 
volume due to higher copper oxide content


Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends 
the summer on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish 
water, shallow at about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid 
june until september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin 
coat (about 2 liters solvent diluted before spring launch every year) 
so one gallon does about 2 years...no pressure wash after haulout and 
very little prep before application before launch...I have used Micron 
CSC, expensive by comparison and no noticebale difference...I use a 
very thin layer of black Amercoat over blue Micron  CSC and no issues 
with adherence...I have noted that Mike's C&C 33 MKII is very slippery 
as well


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net 


On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom
in December.  It is how he described.

I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat
last year (similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three
times per year (could use a crane so was cheap).  1^st time would
be mid July at a race week after in water for 1.5 months – bottom
looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2^nd time Labour day weekend at
beginning September when we brought the boat back to Halifax from
its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be some
slime and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a
star shaped pattern.  Last haulout would be end of October in
Halifax after sitting on a mooring in NW Arm approx. 150 feet from
Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing on the vertical
surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.

Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of
Micron CSC.  Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on
Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to work on propeller shaft, relaunched
Sept 19 and hauled 1^st week November.  Was dirty on each haulout.

When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I
cannot conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66
has made me consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has
been using for 10 years and owners say it is closest thing to
Micron 66 available in Canada.  They insist it is closer to Micron
66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.

All of the above are racing paints and that is also a
consideration even though we now sail a Winnebago

Mike

Persistence

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *robert via
CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:05 AM
*To:* mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

I will be brave to face  a genetic engineer.I suspect the 50-50 
acetone ATF concoction has more to do with the 'acetone' than the 
'ATF'.  I said earlier last week that I thought it was Power Steering 
Fluid ...both are petroleum based..its the acetonemaybe the 
petroleum based additive gives us sense of comfortthink about 
itmost of us are more comfortable with a drop of 'oil' than a drop 
of 'acetone'.


I think it is the 50 % acetone that makes this concoction 
effective.it can be mixed with any petroleum product 50%-50% and do 
its thing.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax,N.S,

On 2015-03-11 11:41 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list. 
 This group has an amazittng array or talents and experiences, not 
just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets 
this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each 
works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches 
dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt 
water.  No more ratcheting happening there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave




Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

I am feeling a bit foolish right now. The PO did install a ground bus in the 
battery compartment.  Since it wasn't in with the electrical panel I didn't put 
2 and 2 together. 


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:07 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost 
> Plus.
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was 
>> expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical 
>> project.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:
>> >
>> > Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
>> > and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
>> > different from yours, just ignore this email.)
>> >
>> > On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from 
>> > the
>> > top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of
>> > these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One
>> > of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring 
>> > down
>> > to the battery wire connection on the engine block.
>> >
>> > The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all
>> > switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.
>> >
>> >
>> > Rick Brass
>> > Imzadi  1976 C&C 38 mk 2
>> > Hull # 049
>> > Washington, NC
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -Original Message-
>> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
>> > Scott via CnC-List
>> > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
>> >
>> > Hey All
>> >
>> > I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out 
>> > was
>> > AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it
>> > a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative
>> > or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there
>> > somewhere?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > Joe
>> >
>> > Sent from my
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> > bottom
>> > of page at:
>> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> >
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea
PowerPost Plus.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus

Dennis C.


On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I
> was expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first
> electrical project.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass 
> wrote:
> >
> > Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom
> forward,
> > and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
> > different from yours, just ignore this email.)
> >
> > On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from
> the
> > top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of
> > these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it.
> One
> > of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring
> down
> > to the battery wire connection on the engine block.
> >
> > The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery
> 1-2-all
> > switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.
> >
> >
> > Rick Brass
> > Imzadi  1976 C&C 38 mk 2
> > Hull # 049
> > Washington, NC
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Joseph
> > Scott via CnC-List
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
> >
> > Hey All
> >
> > I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out
> was
> > AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see
> it
> > a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the
> negative
> > or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be
> there
> > somewhere?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > Sent from my
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> > of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[David via CnC-List]

h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This group 
has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing but also 
in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering 
I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect there are not 
going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  I will be sure to report 
back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this one off.  I may buy a few 
wrenches just to see how well each works in this not uncommon situation.  My 
box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while back and of course ended up in 
the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening there.  As to my real 
point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a penetrant so I 
made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the two are not 
miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected and if so, 
which phase for the bolt?  Dave


Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This group 
has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing but also 
in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering 
I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect there are not 
going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this one 
off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this not 
uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while back and 
of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening 
there.  
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the two 
are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected and if 
so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave
> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was 
expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical 
project. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:
> 
> Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
> and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
> different from yours, just ignore this email.)
> 
> On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the
> top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of
> these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One
> of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down
> to the battery wire connection on the engine block.
> 
> The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all
> switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.
> 
> 
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  1976 C&C 38 mk 2
> Hull # 049
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
> Scott via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
> 
> Hey All
> 
> I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was
> AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it
> a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative
> or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there
> somewhere?  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
different from yours, just ignore this email.)

On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the
top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of
these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One
of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down
to the battery wire connection on the engine block.

The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all
switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  1976 C&C 38 mk 2
Hull # 049
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Scott via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

Hey All

I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was
AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it
a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative
or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there
somewhere?  

Thanks

Joe

Sent from my 
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

you won’t miss it.  C&C was ahead of their time with electrical - really nice 
ground buses.  Can’t comment on 1976...

John

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:57 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ok, I will look around under/behind. Thanks for the help.  This is my first 
> excursion into the electrical system. 
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:52 PM, Edd Schillay  > wrote:
> 
>> Joe,
>> 
>> On my 37+, there's a negative ground block behind the panel and one under. 
>> If you can't locate one, you can just connect the negative to any ground 
>> anywhere else on the boat. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> NCC-1701-B
>> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>> www.StarshipSailing.com 
>> ---
>> 914.332.4400  | Office
>> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 6
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:46 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hey All
>> 
>> I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was 
>> AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it 
>> a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative 
>> or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there 
>> somewhere?  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Sent from my 
>> ___
>> 
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
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>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Ok, I will look around under/behind. Thanks for the help.  This is my first 
excursion into the electrical system. 

Joe

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:52 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> On my 37+, there's a negative ground block behind the panel and one under. If 
> you can't locate one, you can just connect the negative to any ground 
> anywhere else on the boat. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:46 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey All
> 
> I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was 
> AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it a 
> place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative or 
> anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there 
> somewhere?  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joe,

On my 37+, there's a negative ground block behind the panel and one under. If 
you can't locate one, you can just connect the negative to any ground anywhere 
else on the boat. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:46 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hey All

I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was AC 
so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it a 
place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative or 
anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there 
somewhere?  

Thanks

Joe

Sent from my 
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Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Hey All

I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was AC 
so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it a 
place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative or 
anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there 
somewhere?  

Thanks

Joe

Sent from my 
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Huh?

On 3/12/2015 12:49 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:

I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the cockpit needs 
to be rebuilt



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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the mighty suggestions. I think I'll take the simple route and use 
plywood but I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the 
cockpit needs to be rebuilt. 
The weather is warming up here almost to the point fast epoxy will setup!  I'm 
looking forward to sailing this little boat on the Red River near my house to 
get my after work sailing fix

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (5 feet of ice)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 7:11 PM, Ron Casciato  wrote:
> 
> Brent:
> 
> Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA.  Jeff Kent
> is a "composite master" and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
> a pert that might work.
> 
> http://csi-composites.com  
> 
> Tell him I sent you.
> 
> Ron Casciato
> Impromptu
> C&C 38MKIIC'77
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
> Driedger via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:03 PM
> To: C&C List Canada
> Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)
> 
> Good day folks. 
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
> I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
> going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
> a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
> any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
> the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
> project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
> Thanks. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Brent:

Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA.  Jeff Kent
is a "composite master" and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
a pert that might work.

http://csi-composites.com  

Tell him I sent you.

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
C&C 38MKIIC'77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:03 PM
To: C&C List Canada
Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

With sea water in the 80s and even the 90s sometimes, you can get bottom growth 
quickly in central and southern Florida.  With no paint, after a month, the 
bottom would be covered in algae and barnacles. 

In Tampa Bay, where I now live, algae growth is so intense that you can't buy 
or use many types of fertilizer in the summer.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date:03/11/2015  2:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint 

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and haul 
regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably monthly.

You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:
I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with 
monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will 
haul at around five years.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 

Thanks

 

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

 

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mike

If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's
experience...use Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite
meticulous about Azura and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one
year he had so much growth on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september
that the boat had a hard time making headway under power...the prop was
foulded extremley bad...next year Bob asked this list for advice with his
prop fouling issue...I knew he had such good results with Micron 66 on
Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he didn't mind having a painted black
prop before launch rather than shiny bronze he could just try painting it
as well with Micron 66...I believe he did paint the prop and achieved good
results...something about the critters in the Northwest Arm, very
prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper oxide toxins...Micron 66
might just have the right copper toxins and added biocide for the
moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so this coming
season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes,
think you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron
CSC, Amercoat ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look
somewhere esle for bigger gains, the performance of thse paints are quite
similar...if your boat's bottom is in top notch shape go for one with
multiyear ablative properties and do the job once ever 3-4 years instead of
every year, like i do.
The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of
some antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume
due to higher copper oxide content

Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the
summer on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water,
shallow at about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until
september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2
liters solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does
about 2 years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before
application before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison
and no noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat
over blue Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that
Mike's C&C 33 MKII is very slippery as well

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in
> December.  It is how he described.
>
>
>
> I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last
> year (similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year
> (could use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race
> week after in water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed
> anyway. 2nd time Labour day weekend at beginning September when we
> brought the boat back to Halifax from its summer location on Northumberland
> Strait.  There would be some slime and whatever it is that grows on the
> flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  Last haulout would be end of
> October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in NW Arm approx. 150 feet
> from Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing on the vertical
> surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.
>
>
>
> Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron
> CSC.  Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled
> Sept 8 to work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week
> November.  Was dirty on each haulout.
>
>
>
> When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot
> conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me
> consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10
> years and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada.
> They insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.
>
>
>
> All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration even
> though we now sail a Winnebago
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *robert
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:05 AM
> *To:* mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List bottom paint
>
>
>
> I had no complaints using Micron CSCused it for about 12 yearsa
> few years back, I had the opportunity to buy a few gallons of Micron 66 for
> $100 per gallon.  I read about its effectiveness in dealing with
> 'slime'.the biocides in it I guess which are not in CSC.  And 2 1/2
> gallons for $250, how could I refuse.
>
>
> AZURA logs close to 1,000nm per season and when the boat is hauled in
> October, it does not need a bottom cleaning and/or pressure wash.  The
> bottom looks pretty muc

Stus-List registration in Canada

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

So i spoke to a gentleman at the registry office in Ottawa or wherever it is, 
and he tells me if I have the title signed over by the previous owner and 
something about de-registering it in Michigan I should be good to go. If you 
don't remember, I don't have the builders certificate for my 1985 C&C 33. He 
was going to have someone else call me back, hasn't happened yet. Very 
friendly, helpful people. will follow up when I hear back.

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I can't address the original question, but to Doug's comment I also 
swear by 'Knytex,' which is a trade name from one manufacturer.  It's 
biaxial with mat sewn together, without the binders that limit one to 
polyester resins.  Once I discovered it, I never used anything else.  
You can lay up really strong layers fast, and for things like tabbing in 
new bulkheads you only need one slap.  I used it to epoxy my lead keel 
to the stub.


Wal


Doug wrote:

A friend of mine that does a lot of glass work swears by the Bi-axial cloth
and epoxy resin.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brent,

I'd keep it simple.

>From the manual it looks like the original was made from plywood with a
basic foil shape.
I would get some plywood, shape one out of that to fit, round the front
edge, taper the trailing edge, cover it with a layer or two of fibreglass
and go out and have fun.  It is just an old dinghy after all.

Cheers

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: March-11-15 13:03
To: C&C List Canada
Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15


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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

They were astoundingly lucky they didn’t dump half their crew off the boat in 
the dark.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 3:11 PM
To: Martin DeYoung; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: OldSteveH
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

When the former Donneybrook hit a rock exiting the Bay the skipper broke 
several ribs on the wheel.  The boat was going 12 knots.  It was a total loss.

No one on Vestas was hearing a PFD or harness in clear violation of ISAF 
requirements.  Apparently safety was not a primary concern.

Joel

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:28 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal injuries 
> from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .

I believe the impact was less violent because the keel was canted to weather.  
On our old school boats with a fixed keel a grounding at speed equals that very 
sudden stop that throws crew to the deck.  The video of Vestas' grounding 
showed some violent motion but it appears to be a rotation (180 degree?) around 
the keel as it comes to a stop.  The first hit appears to be a dagger board or 
possibly a rudder which may have absorbed some of the momentum.

Back in the late 70's I was crewing on a C&C 39 competing in the Southern 
Straits of Georgia race (near Vancouver BC).  I was off watch and in one of the 
pilot berths, feet forward.  The on deck team was cutting close to one of the 
islands (possibly Entrance) to get some relief from the adverse current.  When 
the boat struck a chuck of the island the stop was so sudden I slid forward in 
the bunk.  Many of the crew on deck were knocked down.  We got off the rock by 
using the spinnaker pole as a lever to rotate clear.  The keel stood up well to 
the hit losing a golf ball sized chunk of lead.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of OldSteveH via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

Myself and 10 other crew helped Derek Hatfield sail his Volvo 60 1,700 nm from 
Halifax to Antigua just over a year ago.
Fortunately we hit no reefs, though we did run aground (under power) on the way 
into Jolly Harbour in Antigua.
The boat has a long spade keel with a bulb at the bottom and carries about
12 ft of draft.

Our top speed on our trip was about 22 knots, the most I had at the helm was
18 knots.
At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal injuries 
from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .
.

On a side note it is not pleasant to be off-shift on that boat in tropical 
weather. There is no cabin ventilation whatsoever due to constant wash and 
spray, it's very hot inside.

Cheers

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

When the former Donneybrook hit a rock exiting the Bay the skipper broke
several ribs on the wheel.  The boat was going 12 knots.  It was a total
loss.

No one on Vestas was hearing a PFD or harness in clear violation of ISAF
requirements.  Apparently safety was not a primary concern.

Joel

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:28 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> > At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal
> injuries from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .
>
> I believe the impact was less violent because the keel was canted to
> weather.  On our old school boats with a fixed keel a grounding at speed
> equals that very sudden stop that throws crew to the deck.  The video of
> Vestas' grounding showed some violent motion but it appears to be a
> rotation (180 degree?) around the keel as it comes to a stop.  The first
> hit appears to be a dagger board or possibly a rudder which may have
> absorbed some of the momentum.
>
> Back in the late 70's I was crewing on a C&C 39 competing in the Southern
> Straits of Georgia race (near Vancouver BC).  I was off watch and in one of
> the pilot berths, feet forward.  The on deck team was cutting close to one
> of the islands (possibly Entrance) to get some relief from the adverse
> current.  When the boat struck a chuck of the island the stop was so sudden
> I slid forward in the bunk.  Many of the crew on deck were knocked down.
> We got off the rock by using the spinnaker pole as a lever to rotate
> clear.  The keel stood up well to the hit losing a golf ball sized chunk of
> lead.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> OldSteveH via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report
>
> Myself and 10 other crew helped Derek Hatfield sail his Volvo 60 1,700 nm
> from Halifax to Antigua just over a year ago.
> Fortunately we hit no reefs, though we did run aground (under power) on
> the way into Jolly Harbour in Antigua.
> The boat has a long spade keel with a bulb at the bottom and carries about
> 12 ft of draft.
>
> Our top speed on our trip was about 22 knots, the most I had at the helm
> was
> 18 knots.
> At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal
> injuries from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .
> .
>
> On a side note it is not pleasant to be off-shift on that boat in tropical
> weather. There is no cabin ventilation whatsoever due to constant wash and
> spray, it's very hot inside.
>
> Cheers
>
> Steve Hood
> S/V Diamond Girl
> C&C 34
> Lions Head ON
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On the Eastern Shore, a local J-80 was dry sailed. If she was launched for a 
Wednesday race, she needed a quick 'floss' (dragging a bed sheet from side to 
side) for Saturday. Last year, we (another J-80) had one year old Vivid and a 
diver every other week - noticed some drag so had the diver come weekly, which 
we also did on our 30-1 with year old Hydrocoat. We are hoping fresh Hydrocoat 
SR will last two weeks and the same with some fresh Vivid on the 80. We got a 
deal on diving because I moved Penniless next to the 80 so the diver could get 
two at a time.

If all this doesn't make sense, the ex-Admiral sails the 30 and I crew on an 80 
and race the 30 on some Sundays.

Gary Nylander
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: robert ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 2:29 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint


  Most of the race boats in Annapolis are painted and have weekly cleanings!  
If you dive and have Wednesdays free you can pick up some good money!


  J30 class rules prohibit dry sailing, and no one dares go bare.


  Joel


  On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:26 PM, robert via CnC-List  
wrote:

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and 
haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably monthly.

You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:

  I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but 
with monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I 
will haul at around five years.


  Jack Brennan
  Former C&C 25
  Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.








  Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


   Original message 
  From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
  Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 


  Thanks



  Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as 
Micron CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness



  Mike

  Persistence



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint



  + 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

  Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that 
burnishes to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator 
cuffs can stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where 
you have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing 
in the spring will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ "Take Five"
  Lake Lanier, GA



  Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
  Message-ID: 
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. 
They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near 
impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic 
chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.

  Jack Brennan
  Former C&C 25
  Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.


   

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  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551


--


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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Most of the race boats in Annapolis are painted and have weekly cleanings!
If you dive and have Wednesdays free you can pick up some good money!

J30 class rules prohibit dry sailing, and no one dares go bare.

Joel

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:26 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Jack:
>
> Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and
> haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably
> monthly.
>
> You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an
> antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but
> with monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I
> figure I will haul at around five years.
>
>  Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
>
>  Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
> Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint
>
>  Thanks
>
>
>
> Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as
> Micron CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Jean-Francois J Rivard
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint
>
>
>
> + 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall
> effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water
> (But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1
> year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth
> free / smooth / fast.
>
> Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes
> to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can
> stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you
> have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing
> in the spring will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper
> action.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago.
> They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is
> near impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in
> toxic chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.
>
> Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal injuries 
> from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .

I believe the impact was less violent because the keel was canted to weather.  
On our old school boats with a fixed keel a grounding at speed equals that very 
sudden stop that throws crew to the deck.  The video of Vestas' grounding 
showed some violent motion but it appears to be a rotation (180 degree?) around 
the keel as it comes to a stop.  The first hit appears to be a dagger board or 
possibly a rudder which may have absorbed some of the momentum.

Back in the late 70's I was crewing on a C&C 39 competing in the Southern 
Straits of Georgia race (near Vancouver BC).  I was off watch and in one of the 
pilot berths, feet forward.  The on deck team was cutting close to one of the 
islands (possibly Entrance) to get some relief from the adverse current.  When 
the boat struck a chuck of the island the stop was so sudden I slid forward in 
the bunk.  Many of the crew on deck were knocked down.  We got off the rock by 
using the spinnaker pole as a lever to rotate clear.  The keel stood up well to 
the hit losing a golf ball sized chunk of lead.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

Myself and 10 other crew helped Derek Hatfield sail his Volvo 60 1,700 nm from 
Halifax to Antigua just over a year ago.
Fortunately we hit no reefs, though we did run aground (under power) on the way 
into Jolly Harbour in Antigua.
The boat has a long spade keel with a bulb at the bottom and carries about
12 ft of draft.

Our top speed on our trip was about 22 knots, the most I had at the helm was
18 knots.
At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal injuries 
from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .
.

On a side note it is not pleasant to be off-shift on that boat in tropical 
weather. There is no cabin ventilation whatsoever due to constant wash and 
spray, it's very hot inside.

Cheers

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON


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Stus-List Bottom paint

[robert via CnC-List]

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint 
and haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, 
probably monthly.


You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:
I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, 
but with monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of 
potency. I figure I will haul at around five years.


Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

Thanks

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same 
as Micron CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness


Mike

Persistence

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt 
water (But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so 
far (1 year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely 
slime / growth free / smooth / fast.


Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that 
burnishes to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your 
rotator cuffs can stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are 
in an area where you have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding 
or bronze wool burnishing in the spring will re-activate / supercharge 
the growth killing copper action.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: >

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. 
They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom 
is near impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being 
covered in toxic chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.


Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Make a profile from the inside of the dagger board well.  Then I'd start
with:

http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Polyisocyanurate_Foam_Sheets_440/Foam for
shape.

You could bump up to 6 lb foam but I don't think you need the extra
strength or cost.

Using polyester or vinylester resin, bond a layer of fiberglass matte to
get good bond to the foam.  Then a couple layers of Kevlar cloth for
strength.

Finally, add a layer of fiberglass matte for smoothness.  Fill any pits
with a premium putty.  Sand with 220 then wash thoroughly.  Repeat the
putty, sanding and washing until all imperfections are gone.  This will
take several tries.

Finish with gelcoat sanding with 320, 600, 800 then polish with AquaBuff
2000.

If you want to paint instead, prime with a high build primer, sand with 320
then 600 then spray with paint.

Remember, Kevlar is more difficult to work with and to sand if you build it
up too high.  that's why I recommend fiberglass matte on top of it.

Lastly, polyester or vinylester resin is cheaper than epoxy.

I'd consider making one from marine plywood first and varnishing it.  If
you like it, you can use it to make a mold for the composite one.

Dennis  C.



On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 11:02 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little
> TLC I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard.
> I'm going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet
> for a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone
> have any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second,
> for the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for
> this project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You might be able use a method like this to make a hollow daggerboard that
wouldn't float.

http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/the-lost-foam-method-of-composite-fabrication/

Josh
On Mar 11, 2015 12:04 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little
> TLC I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard.
> I'm going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet
> for a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone
> have any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second,
> for the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for
> this project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with 
monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will 
haul at around five years.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
Date:03/11/2015  12:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 

Thanks
 
Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness
 
Mike
Persistence
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint
 
+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.___

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Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint


+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / fast.

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
mailto:tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
___

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Kevlar makes cutting and shaping a real pain in the butt.  For a small
project like that there is no reason fiberglass won't be sufficient.

I would suggest foam insulation board from a home improvement store.  A 2"
thick 4x8 piece would be good for a couple different tries.  The high
density stuff is great for sanding and shaping.  It usually comes in blue
or pink.  Don't use the white stuff that looks like it was made with a
bunch of beads.  4 layers of glass is probably sufficient.

Consider a stitched fiberglass product like that in the link below.

http://www.fibreglast.com/product/saertex-1200-gm2-stitched-triaxial-fiberglass-2808/Stitched_Fiberglass

If its too boyant then you can add lead to the lower portion.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
On Mar 11, 2015 12:04 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little
> TLC I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard.
> I'm going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet
> for a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone
> have any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second,
> for the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for
> this project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Bacon's has old Laser daggerboards cheap.  I used one for my emergency
rudder contraption.  I need to go there anyhow, so I could see what they
have.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 12:52 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks. If I don't have any info on it by May Id be very happy to get it
> from you then. I was considering plywood too. My old Bonito daggerboard is
> ply and it works well. I was thinking the invitation might have a more
> built up foil shape like a Laser which may be a little harder to make from
> plywood.
>
> Brent
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Bent,
> >
> > I have a boat like this, as well. I have it at the cottage, so I cannot
> take any measurements at this time. It won't happen until some time in May
> (if you are still interested).
> >
> > I found a manual here:
> http://www.iei.liu.se/flumes/bjorn/triss_racer?l=en (it is big and the
> connection is not the fastest, but you can get it form there).
> >
> > The daggerboard that I have is a reasonably simple thing. the top is
> shaped to fit into the opening; the bottom is wing shaped (tapered at the
> leading and the trailing edge) and the front and the back are parallel.
> Personally, I would make it of wood (and use good varnish on top). That
> thing has to be reasonably strong, as you will want to step on it, when
> righting the boat.
> >
> > If you are willing to wait for the measurements, let me know; I will
> take some pictures and dimensions, when I get there.
> >
> > Marek
> >
> > -Original Message- From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:02 PM
> > To: C&C List Canada
> > Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)
> >
> > Good day folks.
> > Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little
> TLC I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard.
> I'm going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet
> for a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone
> have any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second,
> for the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for
> this project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brent Driedger
> > 27-5
> > Lake Winnipeg.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks. If I don't have any info on it by May Id be very happy to get it from 
you then. I was considering plywood too. My old Bonito daggerboard is ply and 
it works well. I was thinking the invitation might have a more built up foil 
shape like a Laser which may be a little harder to make from plywood. 

Brent

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bent,
> 
> I have a boat like this, as well. I have it at the cottage, so I cannot take 
> any measurements at this time. It won't happen until some time in May (if you 
> are still interested).
> 
> I found a manual here: http://www.iei.liu.se/flumes/bjorn/triss_racer?l=en 
> (it is big and the connection is not the fastest, but you can get it form 
> there).
> 
> The daggerboard that I have is a reasonably simple thing. the top is shaped 
> to fit into the opening; the bottom is wing shaped (tapered at the leading 
> and the trailing edge) and the front and the back are parallel. Personally, I 
> would make it of wood (and use good varnish on top). That thing has to be 
> reasonably strong, as you will want to step on it, when righting the boat.
> 
> If you are willing to wait for the measurements, let me know; I will take 
> some pictures and dimensions, when I get there.
> 
> Marek
> 
> -Original Message- From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:02 PM
> To: C&C List Canada
> Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)
> 
> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
> I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm 
> going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a 
> design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have 
> any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for 
> the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this 
> project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

A friend of mine that does a lot of glass work swears by the Bi-axial cloth
and epoxy resin.
Doug
sv Pegasus
Just west of Ballard Wa.
LF38

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:02 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little
> TLC I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard.
> I'm going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet
> for a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone
> have any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second,
> for the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for
> this project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Bent,

I have a boat like this, as well. I have it at the cottage, so I cannot take 
any measurements at this time. It won't happen until some time in May (if 
you are still interested).


I found a manual here: http://www.iei.liu.se/flumes/bjorn/triss_racer?l=en 
(it is big and the connection is not the fastest, but you can get it form 
there).


The daggerboard that I have is a reasonably simple thing. the top is shaped 
to fit into the opening; the bottom is wing shaped (tapered at the leading 
and the trailing edge) and the front and the back are parallel. Personally, 
I would make it of wood (and use good varnish on top). That thing has to be 
reasonably strong, as you will want to step on it, when righting the boat.


If you are willing to wait for the measurements, let me know; I will take 
some pictures and dimensions, when I get there.


Marek

-Original Message- 
From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:02 PM
To: C&C List Canada
Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

Good day folks.
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm 
going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for 
a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have 
any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for 
the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this 
project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?

Thanks.

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone
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___

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Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water
(But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1
year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth
free / smooth / fast.

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes
to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can
stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you
have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing
in the spring will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper
action.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago.
They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is
near impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in
toxic chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.___

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Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm going 
to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a design 
detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have any links 
they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for the composite 
masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this project? Will 
fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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