Stus-List cnc-list
i ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole
I am currently working on a new cabin sole for a C&C 32 #109. I looked and
compared Teak and Holley plywood online using these points: veneer thickness,
spacing of T&H, core and country of origin.
This is the one we went with:
http://www.seacoasthardwood.com/marine-plywood/teak-and-holly
http://www.bruynzeelmultipanel.com/products/view/id/80?cid=3&lang=en
The coating is:
Two coats RAKA epoxy and five coats of Epifanes's PU Clear Gloss two part
varnish.
This is not an add, I am a DIYer in Oklahoma. It is looking great! What is a
"money pit"? A Sailboat. {:-)
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Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole
What did they charge you for shipping or was that local for you?
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Arnold
Griesel via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2015 8:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole
I am currently working on a new cabin sole for a C&C 32 #109. I looked and
compared Teak and Holley plywood online using these points: veneer thickness,
spacing of T&H, core and country of origin.
This is the one we went with:
http://www.seacoasthardwood.com/marine-plywood/teak-and-holly
http://www.bruynzeelmultipanel.com/products/view/id/80?cid=3&lang=en
The coating is:
Two coats RAKA epoxy and five coats of Epifanes's PU Clear Gloss two part
varnish.
This is not an add, I am a DIYer in Oklahoma. It is looking great! What is a
"money pit"? A Sailboat. {:-)
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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page at:
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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 – $100. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... which has worked flawlessly. Much, much better tool than those cheap flat steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII From: Graham Collins via CnC-List Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM To: Jim Watts ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS It is missing the vial of weasel sweat. Otherwise good. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote: Here's my wiring diagram. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List wrote: Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin. “Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind. The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended. Just a few thoughts… Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 For sale in Halifax, NS. On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote: And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking weatherproof here) one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in connection. In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are in the standard C&C panel. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Alex Giannelia Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS Remember to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were planning that already. Ed On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" wrote: So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch. The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF radios. Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON. The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the locker on the starboard side above the
Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
Peter,I would like to purchase a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live in the US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their C/T s web site. Any idea's oot there? Thanks Lee C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY -Original Message- From: Peter Fell via CnC-List To: cnc-list Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 – $100. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... which has worked flawlessly. Much, much better tool than those cheap flat steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII From:Graham Collins via CnC-List Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM To:Jim Watts ;cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS It is missing the vial of weasel sweat. Otherwise good. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote: Here's my wiring diagram. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List wrote: Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin. “Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind. The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended. Just a few thoughts… Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 For sale in Halifax, NS. On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking weatherproof here) one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in connection. In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge panel for the com
Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
This type of crimper is available all over amazon. I've been satisfied with mine. They're not perfect (so make sure you give the lug a good pull) but they sure beat the cheap single plate style. Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ynPlvb0CN2Y01 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Apr 15, 2015 12:21 PM, "Lee via CnC-List" wrote: > Peter,I would like to purchase a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live in > the US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their C/T s web site. > Any idea's oot > there? > Thanks Lee C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY > > > -Original Message- > From: Peter Fell via CnC-List > To: cnc-list > Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am > Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS > >By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive > pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, > Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale > price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 > - $100. > > > http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU > > I have to say I haven't tried these, but they look almost identical to > the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... > which has worked flawlessly. Much, much better tool than those cheap flat > steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get > a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals. > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > *From:* Graham Collins via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM > *To:* Jim Watts ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS > > It is missing the vial of weasel sweat. Otherwise good. > > Graham Collins > Secret Plans > C&C 35-III #11 > > On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote: > > Here's my wiring diagram. > https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg > > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the >> less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, >> especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary >> switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to >> be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin. >> >> "Unnecessary" is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities >> such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and >> saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth >> compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better >> to my mind. >> >> The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the >> main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended. >> >> Just a few thoughts... >> >> Rich Knowles >> Nanaimo, BC >> INDIGO LF38 >> For sale in Halifax, NS. >> >> >> >> >> >> On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types >> (talking weatherproof here) one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) >> built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you'd need >> to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse >> individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined >> switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and >> fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds >> to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized >> fusing for each 'device'. So, for example, although my chartplotter is >> switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse >> block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want >> to be able to turn power off completely to it's plug-in connection. >> >> In my planning I'm trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible >> ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, >> I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount 'waterproof' fuse holders in the >> engine gauge panel for the compass light and the blower - the switches for >> both of those are in the standard C&C panel. >> >> Peter Fell >> Sidney, BC >> Cygnet >> C&C 27 MkIII >> >> >> >> *From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Alex Giannelia >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS >> >> Remember to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an >> appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you >> were planning t
Re: Stus-List Crimper at CT. previously: WIRING PLANS
Lee, This item says "in store purchase only". I am going to pick one up for myself tonight. I could buy one and ship to you, but I suspect taxes + shipping will push it over the Amazon's price. Peter: thanks for heads up. Marek On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 12:21 PM, Lee via CnC-List wrote: > Peter,I would like to purchase a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live in > the US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their C/T s web site. > Any idea's oot > there? > Thanks Lee C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY > > > -Original Message- > From: Peter Fell via CnC-List > To: cnc-list > Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am > Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS > >By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive > pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, > Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale > price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 > – $100. > > > http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU > > I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to > the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... > which has worked flawlessly. Much, much better tool than those cheap flat > steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get > a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals. > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
Highly recommend the Daniels Crimping Tool. I am by trade and aircraft electrician and this is the tool I use to do my splice/crimping. I also use environmental crimpers which are a bit more expensive and require a heat gun to heat shrink the weatherproof sleeve. Daniels DMC HX4 M22520/5-01 Crimping Tool http://www.ebay.com/itm/Daniels-DMC-HX4-M22520-5-01-Crimping-Tool-/371304440700?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item567378237c On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 9:39 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > This type of crimper is available all over amazon. I've been satisfied > with mine. They're not perfect (so make sure you give the lug a good pull) > but they sure beat the cheap single plate style. > > Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ynPlvb0CN2Y01 > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Apr 15, 2015 12:21 PM, "Lee via CnC-List" > wrote: > >> Peter,I would like to purchase a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live >> in the US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their C/T s web >> site. Any idea's oot >> there? >> Thanks Lee C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Peter Fell via CnC-List >> To: cnc-list >> Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am >> Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS >> >>By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive >> pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, >> Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale >> price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 >> – $100. >> >> >> http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU >> >> I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to >> the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... >> which has worked flawlessly. Much, much better tool than those cheap flat >> steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get >> a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals. >> >> Peter Fell >> Sidney, BC >> Cygnet >> C&C 27 MkIII >> >> *From:* Graham Collins via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM >> *To:* Jim Watts ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS >> >> It is missing the vial of weasel sweat. Otherwise good. >> >> Graham Collins >> Secret Plans >> C&C 35-III #11 >> >> On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote: >> >> Here's my wiring diagram. >> https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg >> >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the >>> less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, >>> especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary >>> switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to >>> be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin. >>> >>> “Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities >>> such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and >>> saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth >>> compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better >>> to my mind. >>> >>> The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the >>> main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended. >>> >>> Just a few thoughts… >>> >>> Rich Knowles >>> Nanaimo, BC >>> INDIGO LF38 >>> For sale in Halifax, NS. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types >>> (talking weatherproof here) one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) >>> built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need >>> to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse >>> individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined >>> switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and >>> fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds >>> to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized >>> fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my chartplotter is >>> switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse >>> block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want >>> to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in connection. >>> >>> In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as >>> possible ... eliminating those that are hidden
Stus-List Crimper
I use the Ancor double crimper. The additional price isn't much when spread over several years. My reasoning for using the Ancor crimper is that I exclusively use Ancor insulated connectors. Not all crimpers are the same. Some may be designed for AWG connectors, some for whatever?? connectors. It may not make a big difference but then again.. There are several "brand" crimpers out there: Greenlee, Klien, etc. They may simply be the same as the cheap ones with a brand logo on them. Who knows these days? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crimper
Before you buy any of those crimpers, I suggest reading this: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination. I am not saying not to buy the $10 crimper (I might buy one myself), but you probably want to be aware of the limitations. And one warning about CT tools: check what standard they use. If they use standard connectors that are readily available from other places – good; but if they support their own or some exotic vendor’s, beware. CT is notorious for discontinuing support for devices it used to sell (sometimes even for the ones they still sell) Marek C270, s/v Legato Ottawa, ON From: Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2015 1:15 PM To: CnClist Subject: Stus-List Crimper I use the Ancor double crimper. The additional price isn't much when spread over several years. My reasoning for using the Ancor crimper is that I exclusively use Ancor insulated connectors. Not all crimpers are the same. Some may be designed for AWG connectors, some for whatever?? connectors. It may not make a big difference but then again.. There are several "brand" crimpers out there: Greenlee, Klien, etc. They may simply be the same as the cheap ones with a brand logo on them. Who knows these days? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
