Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That's probably this:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81160-High-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEN1A

I think LocTite makes a similar product.

I used it on the side panels of my AT4 but that's a bit lower temperature
application.  Might not work as well on an exhaust.

For an exhaust system, look at this:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80335-12PK-Muffler-Tailpipe-Sealer/dp/B001RETQBC

Dennis C.


On Wed, May 6, 2015 at 7:42 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> NAPA sells exhaust rated sealant that works similar to silicone sealer.
> The tube I have is a reddish orange color.  I have used it on parts of
> Calypso’s Perkins 4-108 exhaust where it works fine.
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gotcha...I think we were all afraid that a mysterious part of the engine
was lying in wait to fail.
On May 6, 2015 5:48 PM, "ahycrace--- via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Crossover elbow...Mixing elbow...exhaust elbowGizmo that mixes the
> exhaust with the hot water from the heat exchanger. These things get packed
> with carbon every so often and must be changed or at least cleaned out.  It
> is better to just change the thing.
>
>  Gary K
>  Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:
> > "What's a cross over elbow?"  I was wondering the same thing...
> > On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, "Richard Bush via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > OK, what's a crossover elbow?
> > >
> > > > On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List <
> > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > >I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover
> > > elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with
> all new
> > > bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I
> hear
> > > it is a common thing. It was easy to do.
> > > >
> > > >  Gary
> Kolc
> > > >  Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
> > > >> I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8" diameter wooden
> dowels
> > > bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe
> cleaners
> > > would be better, but can't find them anymore.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Chuck
> > > >> Resolute
> > > >> 1990 C&C 34R
> > > >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > > >>
> > > >> - Original Message -
> > > >>
> > > >> From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" 
> > > >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > > >> Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
> > > >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open
> the
> > > end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
> > > coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long
> drill
> > > bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Doug Mountjoy
> > > >>
> > > >> svPegasus
> > > >>
> > > >> LF38
> > > >>
> > > >> just west of Ballard, WA.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> -- Original message--
> > > >>
> > > >> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
> > > >>
> > > >> Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19
> > > >>
> > > >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
> > > >>
> > > >> Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last
> > > weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a
> short
> > > trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700
> original
> > > hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the
> tach.
> > > The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower
> ROM
> > > (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I
> cleaned
> > > out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the
> > > alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to
> > > around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.
> > > >>
> > > >> Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose
> so
> > > Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a
> pressurewash,
> > > prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.
> > > >>
> > > >> Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I
> shouldcheck?
> > > >>
> > > >> Tom B
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Tom Buscaglia
> > > >> SV Alera
> > > >> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> > > >> Vashon Island WA
> > > >> (206) 463-9200
> > > >> www.sv-alera.com
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> ___
> > > >>
> > > >> Email address:
> > > >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > > >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
> the
> > > bottom of page at:
> > > >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ___
> > > >
> > > > Email address:
> > > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > > bottom of page at:
> > > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > >
> > > Email address:
> > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > > bottom of page at:
> > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > >
> > >
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[jtsails via CnC-List]

I used a “stove pipe cement” on mine with no problems. 
james
“Delaney”
Oriental NC
1976 C&C 38


From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 8:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Subject: Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

Thank you Martin.


On Wed, May 6, 2015 at 8:42 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  NAPA sells exhaust rated sealant that works similar to silicone sealer.  The 
tube I have is a reddish orange color.  I have used it on parts of Calypso’s 
Perkins 4-108 exhaust where it works fine.



  Martin DeYoung

  Calypso

  1971 C&C 43

  Seattle






  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 5:36 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: bobmor99 .
  Subject: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant



  Awhile ago I posted about my Home Depot galvanized A4 exhaust riser 
replacement and got lots of advice about using a continuous piece of stainless 
steel instead. 

  It just so happens that a friend of mine with an A4, in an out of the way 
port with no access to stainless steel, has a (probably) galvanized exhaust 
riser that is leaking a little at connections between the pipe and the 90 
degree elbows. Is there any sort of high temperature sealant I can suggest?

  Bob M

  Ox 33-1

  Jax, FL




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Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you Martin.

On Wed, May 6, 2015 at 8:42 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  NAPA sells exhaust rated sealant that works similar to silicone sealer.
> The tube I have is a reddish orange color.  I have used it on parts of
> Calypso’s Perkins 4-108 exhaust where it works fine.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *bobmor99
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 06, 2015 5:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bobmor99 .
> *Subject:* Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant
>
>
>
> Awhile ago I posted about my Home Depot galvanized A4 exhaust riser
> replacement and got lots of advice about using a continuous piece of
> stainless steel instead.
>
> It just so happens that a friend of mine with an A4, in an out of the way
> port with no access to stainless steel, has a (probably) galvanized exhaust
> riser that is leaking a little at connections between the pipe and the 90
> degree elbows. Is there any sort of high temperature sealant I can suggest?
>
> Bob M
>
> Ox 33-1
>
> Jax, FL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

NAPA sells exhaust rated sealant that works similar to silicone sealer.  The 
tube I have is a reddish orange color.  I have used it on parts of Calypso’s 
Perkins 4-108 exhaust where it works fine.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 5:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 .
Subject: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

Awhile ago I posted about my Home Depot galvanized A4 exhaust riser replacement 
and got lots of advice about using a continuous piece of stainless steel 
instead.

It just so happens that a friend of mine with an A4, in an out of the way port 
with no access to stainless steel, has a (probably) galvanized exhaust riser 
that is leaking a little at connections between the pipe and the 90 degree 
elbows. Is there any sort of high temperature sealant I can suggest?
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

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Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Awhile ago I posted about my Home Depot galvanized A4 exhaust riser
replacement and got lots of advice about using a continuous piece of
stainless steel instead.

It just so happens that a friend of mine with an A4, in an out of the way
port with no access to stainless steel, has a (probably) galvanized exhaust
riser that is leaking a little at connections between the pipe and the 90
degree elbows. Is there any sort of high temperature sealant I can suggest?

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 - I aft lowers

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I just checked mine and noted that the upper attaches aft.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 10:03 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> C&C 33 - 1 with two sets of lowers: forward and aft.  They attach at two
> attachment points on the mast, one slightly higher than the other and both
> just below the spreaders.   Do the forward lowers attach at the highest
> point or the one 2 inches lower?
>
> Thanks!
>
> David
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Crossover elbow...Mixing elbow...exhaust elbowGizmo that mixes the exhaust 
with the hot water from the heat exchanger. These things get packed with carbon 
every so often and must be changed or at least cleaned out.  It is better to 
just change the thing.

 Gary K
 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote: 
> "What's a cross over elbow?"  I was wondering the same thing...
> On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, "Richard Bush via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
> 
> > OK, what's a crossover elbow?
> >
> > > On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover
> > elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new
> > bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear
> > it is a common thing. It was easy to do.
> > >
> > >  Gary Kolc
> > >  Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
> > >> I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8" diameter wooden dowels
> > bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners
> > would be better, but can't find them anymore.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Chuck
> > >> Resolute
> > >> 1990 C&C 34R
> > >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > >>
> > >> - Original Message -
> > >>
> > >> From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" 
> > >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the
> > end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
> > coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill
> > bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Doug Mountjoy
> > >>
> > >> svPegasus
> > >>
> > >> LF38
> > >>
> > >> just west of Ballard, WA.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -- Original message--
> > >>
> > >> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
> > >>
> > >> Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19
> > >>
> > >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
> > >>
> > >> Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last
> > weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short
> > trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original
> > hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.
> > The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM
> > (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned
> > out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the
> > alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to
> > around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.
> > >>
> > >> Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so
> > Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash,
> > prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.
> > >>
> > >> Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?
> > >>
> > >> Tom B
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Tom Buscaglia
> > >> SV Alera
> > >> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> > >> Vashon Island WA
> > >> (206) 463-9200
> > >> www.sv-alera.com
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ___
> > >>
> > >> Email address:
> > >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > bottom of page at:
> > >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > >
> > > Email address:
> > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > bottom of page at:
> > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >


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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Ø  … Upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

The difference between upgrade or downgrade may have more to do with how and 
where you use your ground tackle than the size/weight and type/brand of anchor.

Two books cover the art and science or anchoring very well.  Earl Hinz’s book: 
The Complete book on Anchoring and Mooring is an excellent guide that I carry 
onboard whenever I cruise outside of my home waters.  If you want to delve 
deeper into the dynamic forces involved with anchoring William Van Dorn’s 
Oceanography and Seamanship is the overkill read.

If a boat typically anchors in known waters with good holding and reliable 
shelter (calm seas, low current etc.) using the “light” end of the anchor 
manufacturer’s recommendations seems fine, especially on lower displacement 
boats without a windlass.  To help sleep soundly at anchor, especially if the 
weather conditions or holding ground are less than reliable, having the ability 
to add chain or a kellet can significantly add to any anchor’s holding power.  
Carrying and extra anchor or a different type (Danforth type especially the 
Fortress brand make great back up anchors when storage is tight) gives some 
flexibility if the primary anchor will not set.

Calypso displaces 24,000lbs and has a lot of windage, the anchor roller is 
approx. 5 feet off the water, and she will buck enough in a rough anchorage to 
add significantly to the dynamic load on the ground tackle.  I cruise in the 
PNW where, especially in British Columbia common anchorages might be 30 to 60 
feet deep with a 10 to 15 foot tidal range.  I went into overkill mode when 
putting together Calypso’s primary ground tackle.  Our non-racing anchor is a 
65lb CQR (20lbs heavier than the recommendation) with 90 feet of chain and 300 
feet of rode.  We do have an oversized Lewmar windlass and the battery to 
support it.  I carry a spare normal sized Danforth and a smaller Danforth as a 
stern anchor.

When cruising in remote or unfamiliar areas I will add an anchor buoy to help 
mark the anchor’s position and help in retrieving in case the anchor fouls.  I 
use a wide range of scope lengths depending on many factors.  The PNW tidal 
range, wind/sea/current conditions, how crowded the anchorage is, etc. all 
factor into my scope guesstimate.  How well the anchor sets and holds confirms 
how well I guessed.  We also stern tie quite often which deserves its own 
discussion.

In sum, if you know the anchorage well, the weather is settled, and the anchor 
set well I bet using the manufacturer’s recommendation will work out fine.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Hrabinsky via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 8:39 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Cc: Robert Hrabinsky
Subject: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce 
with a 22lb Rocna.

The question is: Am I an idiot?

The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but 
the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks 
like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or 
less.

I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too 
long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 
33lb Bruce.

What say you?

Rob H.



Sent from my Samsung device
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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List]

Mark,
From the Rocna website, I estimate that the length of the shank (from the 
underside where it rests on the roller to the end of the shank) is about 20.3" 
for the 10kg, and about 23.5" for the 15kg.
Please note that the overall shank length is greater than that. The measurement 
that was important to me was the distance from where it rests on the roller to 
the end of the shank. 
Robert H. 
Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"  
Date: 05-06-2015  10:45 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle? 




Robert,

Going back and looking again at the Ronca chart I can see I made a
similar blunder.  I was thinking 1 ton = 2000 lbs --- but the Ronca
chart is actually metric (New Zealand) - so 1 ton is actually 1000
kg - or 2200 lbs.  

As I look at it now I was looking at several different anchors - and
was focusing on 30 ft and ~9000 lbs loaded - rather than 9m and ~4
metric ton.



I bet the 10 would fit easier on my deck - do you know the size
difference in the shanks?  Given I got mine for Xmas and it's not
wet yet I'll see if they might allow a trade



Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-05-06 10:39 AM, RPH via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  Mark, 
  

  
  I have since learned (with Neil's help) that I actually do
have the correctly sized Rocna for my length and displacement.
For a 9m boat, the 10kg Rocna is recommended provided that
displacement is less than 5 tons, or about 10,000 lbs. For some
silly reason, I was calculating as if a ton was 1000 lbs, rather
than 2000 lbs. 
  

  
  

  
  Robert H. 

  

   Original message 

  From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
  

  Date: 05-06-2015 3:39 AM (GMT-08:00) 

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground
  tackle? 

  

  I got stuck on the same issue. 

  My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 

  Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the
  gap. But decided that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in
  an area where I'll be overnighting in marinas - so I figure the
  extra security will help me sleep. 

  I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across
  the parking lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have
  a 10 for comparison. 

  

  Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 

  

  Mark

  

  On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert
Hrabinsky via CnC-List  wrote:

  My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I
just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. 
  

  
  The question is: Am I an idiot? 
  

  
  The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for
my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how
conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb)
Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or
less. 
  

  
  I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit
(the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna
will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. 
  

  
  What say you? 
  

  
  Rob H. 
  

  
  

  
  

  
  
Sent from my
  Samsung device
  
  

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  -- Dr. Mark Bodnar --

  Bedford Chiropractic

  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Rick, thanks, I do not have any "slack" wires, but I can deflect/pull them 
about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch; some one had suggested I look at the Edson Utube 
video, which I did; they say the 1/2 to 3/4 in. is about right; leaving little 
or no play in the wheel.  I think I'm good on this one , only 1,001 more things 
to do!

 


Richard
1095 C&C 37 CB Ohio River; Mi 596;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Sent: Wed, May 6, 2015 12:58 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables


Richard,  
Someone else may chime in with better info, but my question is what you 
consider “play”.  Does that mean that you can deflect the cable by .5-.75”? or 
that the cable hangs that much with no pressure?  I would think the second 
scenario would not be acceptable.  I would also think that you would feel that 
in the steering or will at some point.  I have adjusted mine to “snug” but mine 
is readily available!  Thanks for reminding me though as I need to check mine 
as well.  
 
Cheers 
 
  
 
 
Rick 
 
C&C 37+ “Paikea” 
 
Poulsbo, WA  
  
   

On May 5, 2015, at 8:58 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering 
cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable up 
into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a standard 
rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered standard, 
similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 inch flex 
for the alternator belt, etc)?   I did tighten up the cable terminal on the 
quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of 
the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our first sail of the 
season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or slack in the steering 
wheel.   many thanks to the group for your collective wisdom!   
   
   

   
   

Richard 
 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; 
 
 
 
 Richard N. Bush  
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462  
 502-584-7255
   
   

 
  
   
 
   
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot into the bilge. 

I once had a similar experience but it was a golf tee that shot out of the 
intake hose.  E'ffing golfers.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 9:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Rohwer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

On start up last summer departing Powell River our CC37+ Paikea started 
steaming as we motored toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that change! 
I powered back to near idle and limped back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so 
then disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the impellor even though it 
looked sound.  I figured the next easy step would to be make sure I am getting 
supply so I started working toward the through hull.  Nothing but a trickle 
through any of the hoses.  It’s funny how you anticipate the worst case.   I 
removed the clamps on the through hull with the valve shut and pulled off the 
hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head and two eyes.  A sardine had taken 
a head first plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot 
into the bilge.  The trip had not gone well for him, but it sure had improved 
on my end!   

Cheers
Rick 
 “Paikea”
Poulsbo, WA

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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

The other question of course, is a Rocna even the best choice?  If I was 
spending my money I would have a Manson Supreme hanging off the front.
Cheers,
Paul.

Date: Tue, 5 May 2015 20:38:41 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rph2m...@yahoo.com



My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce 
with a 22lb Rocna. 
The question is: Am I an idiot? 
The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but 
the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks 
like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or 
less. 
I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too 
long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 
33lb Bruce. 
What say you? 
Rob H. 


Sent from my Samsung device
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — as usual, Rich is smack on.  And the color code for conductors, while 
fairly widely used, isn’t a sure-fire way to identify wiring.  For that, you 
need to use the letters either stamped or molded into the alternator case to 
know what terminal does what.  Usually the output will be marked “B” or “BATT”. 
 And I completely agree with Rich that you should go with 6AWG and something 
like a 50-amp fuse or breaker on the alternator output (assuming you’re using 
the stock 35-amp Hitachi that comes on most of our smaller Yanmars).



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 4, 2015, at 6:03 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
wrote:

> The large wire, orange or otherwise, that connects the alternator output post 
> to the post on the solenoid where the battery is connected should be 
> disconnected from the alternator. It can be removed completely. Then connect 
> the alternator output to the house bank. Since the wire run will likely be 
> longer to the battery than it was to the starter, I recommend using heavier 
> wire to reduce voltage drop. I suggest using 6 AWG wire. Make sure you are 
> using good crimping tools and that the wire is physically tied off to the 
> engine near the alternator so that the terminal is not exposed to vibration.
> 
> The other wire on the solenoid battery terminal or possibly on the alternator 
> output terminal will be the wire to the instrument cluster that enables 
> engine start and the gauges. Ideally that should be fed from the engine start 
> battery which will be tied to the solenoid.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.

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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  

Robert,
Going back and looking again at the Ronca chart I can see I made a
similar blunder.  I was thinking 1 ton = 2000 lbs --- but the Ronca
chart is actually metric (New Zealand) - so 1 ton is actually 1000
kg - or 2200 lbs.  
As I look at it now I was looking at several different anchors - and
was focusing on 30 ft and ~9000 lbs loaded - rather than 9m and ~4
metric ton.

I bet the 10 would fit easier on my deck - do you know the size
difference in the shanks?  Given I got mine for Xmas and it's not
wet yet I'll see if they might allow a trade

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-05-06 10:39 AM, RPH via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Mark, 
  
  
  I have since learned (with Neil's help) that I actually do
have the correctly sized Rocna for my length and displacement.
For a 9m boat, the 10kg Rocna is recommended provided that
displacement is less than 5 tons, or about 10,000 lbs. For some
silly reason, I was calculating as if a ton was 1000 lbs, rather
than 2000 lbs. 
  
  
  
  
  Robert H. 
  
   Original message 
  From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
  
  Date: 05-06-2015 3:39 AM (GMT-08:00) 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground
  tackle? 
  
  I got stuck on the same issue. 
  My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 
  Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the
  gap. But decided that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in
  an area where I'll be overnighting in marinas - so I figure the
  extra security will help me sleep. 
  I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across
  the parking lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have
  a 10 for comparison. 
  
  Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 
  
  Mark
  
  On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert
Hrabinsky via CnC-List  wrote:

  My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I
just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. 
  
  
  The question is: Am I an idiot? 
  
  
  The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for
my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how
conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb)
Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or
less. 
  
  
  I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit
(the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna
will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. 
  
  
  What say you? 
  
  
  Rob H. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Sent from my
  Samsung device
  
  

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  -- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
  Bedford Chiropractic
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Richard, 
Someone else may chime in with better info, but my question is what you 
consider “play”.  Does that mean that you can deflect the cable by .5-.75”? or 
that the cable hangs that much with no pressure?  I would think the second 
scenario would not be acceptable.  I would also think that you would feel that 
in the steering or will at some point.  I have adjusted mine to “snug” but mine 
is readily available!  Thanks for reminding me though as I need to check mine 
as well. 
Cheers

Rick
C&C 37+ “Paikea”
Poulsbo, WA
> On May 5, 2015, at 8:58 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering 
> cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable 
> up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a 
> standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered 
> standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 
> inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)?   I did tighten up the cable 
> terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I 
> can only reach on of the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our 
> first sail of the season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or 
> slack in the steering wheel.   many thanks to the group for your collective 
> wisdom!
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> ___ Email address: 
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> preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

On start up last summer departing Powell River our CC37+ Paikea started 
steaming as we motored toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that change! 
I powered back to near idle and limped back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so 
then disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the impellor even though it 
looked sound.  I figured the next easy step would to be make sure I am getting 
supply so I started working toward the through hull.  Nothing but a trickle 
through any of the hoses.  It’s funny how you anticipate the worst case.   I 
removed the clamps on the through hull with the valve shut and pulled off the 
hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head and two eyes.  A sardine had taken 
a head first plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot 
into the bilge.  The trip had not gone well for him, but it sure had improved 
on my end!   

Cheers
Rick 
 “Paikea”
Poulsbo, WA
> On May 5, 2015, at 3:28 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> OK, what's a crossover elbow? 
> 
>> On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Tom
>>   I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, 
>> changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts 
>> and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is 
>> a common thing. It was easy to do.
>> 
>> Gary Kolc
>>  Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote: 
>>> I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8" diameter wooden dowels 
>>> bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners 
>>> would be better, but can't find them anymore. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Chuck 
>>> Resolute 
>>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>>> 
>>> - Original Message -
>>> 
>>> From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List"  
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s 
>>> and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. 
>>> Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and 
>>> doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Doug Mountjoy 
>>> 
>>> svPegasus 
>>> 
>>> LF38 
>>> 
>>> just west of Ballard, WA. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- Original message-- 
>>> 
>>> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>> 
>>> Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 
>>> 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 
>>> 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend 
>>> to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so 
>>> we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours 
>>> and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The 
>>> hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 
>>> or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the 
>>> rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent 
>>> off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and 
>>> it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. 
>>> 
>>> Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
>>> Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, 
>>> prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. 
>>> 
>>> Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? 
>>> 
>>> Tom B 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Tom Buscaglia 
>>> SV Alera 
>>> 1990 C&C 37+/40 
>>> Vashon Island WA 
>>> (206) 463-9200 
>>> www.sv-alera.com 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___ 
>>> 
>>> Email address: 
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at: 
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
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>> of page at:
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>> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Our rules don't allow us to use the whisker pole set at anything longer than 
the J measurement. So, I got rid of mine.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
  To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
  Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 5:13 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage


  I want a whisker pole!






--

  From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Saturday, May 2, 2015 7:37:51 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage



We have 2 poles on the boat now, the spinnaker pole and the whisker pole.  


The spin pole is stored as per the original C&C design: A half loop built 
into the bow pulpit fore and a 3 inch shaft sticking out of a stanchion mount 
aft. The forward jaw securely grabs the loop and the aft end just slips onto 
the shaft.  A simple and secure setup.  It's right above the rail.


  For the whisker pole I sort of copied the design.  I have 2 stanchion mounted 
furler line fair Leeds and a stainless U bolt that screws into the holes where 
the line would go. That's mounted on the bow pulpit and I have a Forespar 
stanchion mount on the aft part.  I like that on both sides the pole end jaw is 
closed on a rigidly mounted loop. This way no matter what there's no chance of 
a 1000.00 $ + pole slipping to Davy Jones' locker.


  In both cases it's right above the rail and does not interfere in any way.


  Btw.  The Forespar telescopic whisker pole is awesome. The fact that the 
length is adjustable from the mast end is a terrific feature. You shorten it to 
less than the J for gibes, it extends to about 22 ft for wing on wing.  It 
works well for reaching when pointed straight forward (almost at the forestay ) 
or shortened  and set to leeward for the mother of barber haulers effect.  


  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ 'Take Five'
  Lake Lanier, Ga 

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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

...and it seems they are referring to metric tons on the table which is 
actually just over 2200lbs  so your even better off! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: RPH via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: RPH 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
Date: Wed, 06 May 2015 06:39:50 -0700


Mark,  I have since learned (with Neil's help) that I actually do have the 
correctly sized Rocna for my length and displacement. For a 9m boat, the 10kg 
Rocna is recommended provided that displacement is less than 5 tons, or about 
10,000 lbs. For some silly reason, I was calculating as if a ton was 1000 lbs, 
rather than 2000 lbs.   Robert H. 
 

 Original message 
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"  
Date: 05-06-2015 3:39 AM (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle? 

I got stuck on the same issue. 
 My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 
 Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the gap. But 
decided that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in an area where I'll be 
overnighting in marinas - so I figure the extra security will help me sleep. 
 I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across the parking 
lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have a 10 for comparison. 
 
 Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 
 
 Mark


On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List 
 wrote:My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. 
I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna.  The question is: Am I an 
idiot?  The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my 
displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their 
ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft 
boat displacing 7k or less.  I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it 
wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will 
almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce.  What say you?  Rob H.Sent from 
my Samsung device 


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 -- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
 Bedford Chiropractic
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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Peter Delean via CnC-List]

I'm doing the same, CC30 Mk1.

I like the Rocna design and if it performs half as well as it appears to,
we'll have a winner.

Adding a Lewmar windlass, and new rode as well.

Pulling the big Bruce up always turned into a bloody affair. Working gloves
became mandatory.

Peter Delean
Drifter II
C&C 30 Mk1
Penetanguishene, ON

Re:

>
>
> My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb
> Bruce with a 22lb Rocna.?
> The question is: Am I an idiot??
> The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement,
> but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It
> looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat
> displacing 7k or less.?
> I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is
> too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly
> outperform the 33lb Bruce.?
> What say you??
> Rob H.?
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[RPH via CnC-List]

Mark, 

I have since learned (with Neil's help) that I actually do have the correctly 
sized Rocna for my length and displacement. For a 9m boat, the 10kg Rocna is 
recommended provided that displacement is less than 5 tons, or about 10,000 
lbs. For some silly reason, I was calculating as if a ton was 1000 lbs, rather 
than 2000 lbs. 


Robert H. 


 Original message 
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"  
Date: 05-06-2015  3:39 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle? 

I got stuck on the same issue. 
My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 
Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the gap. But decided 
that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in an area where I'll be 
overnighting in marinas - so I figure the extra security will help me sleep. 
I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across the parking 
lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have a 10 for comparison. 

Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 

Mark

On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List 
 wrote:
My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce 
with a 22lb Rocna. 

The question is: Am I an idiot? 

The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but 
the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks 
like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or 
less. 

I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too 
long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 
33lb Bruce. 

What say you? 

Rob H. 



Sent from my Samsung device


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-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
Bedford Chiropractic
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Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I second the advice to take a look at the Harken diagrams. 
I have been using one of their products for over 12 years now, and I can attest 
to the fact that the geometry works well. 
Actually, except for the self tapping screws supplied for the cleat, the whole 
kit worked out well.
Seemed a little pricey at the time, but I have no regrets. 
One design feature I like is the use of wire for the standing line. Reduces 
windage, and just looks right. The wire shows no sign of wear, and the running 
line which wears at the blocks can be replaced from the deck.   
I don't know if it would wear less using rings instead of blocks, but I 
wouldn't be surprised. 

Steve
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Paine via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: David Paine 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 10:15
  Subject: Stus-List Lazy Jacks


  I am planning to install lazy jacks on my C&C 33-1.  Something simple with 
rings instead of blocks.  The two top most lines attach ... where?  I'm aiming 
for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast.  How long should 
the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur?   
  Appreciate any insights!


  David


--


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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

I got stuck on the same issue. 
My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 
Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the gap. But decided 
that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in an area where I'll be 
overnighting in marinas - so I figure the extra security will help me sleep. 
I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across the parking 
lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have a 10 for comparison. 

Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 

Mark

On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
>
>My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my
>33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. 
>The question is: Am I an idiot? 
>The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my
>displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative
>their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be
>recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. 
>I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is
>too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly
>outperform the 33lb Bruce. 
>What say you? 
>Rob H. 
>
>
>Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>bottom of page at:
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
Bedford Chiropractic
___

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