Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
That boat has been on yachtsalvage for some time. The buyer is looking at 4-5000 for a rudder, countless hours of fiberglass work and who -knows- what. It would not surprise me if it is parted out on craigslist in a few weeks. On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 9:42 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bids are now up to $191. NO K. Nearly $200. Interesting to watch, I hope she finds a home and someone with the time and skills. Nate On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 8:24 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: you wrote: ship... Project by all means. Always liked the LF38. Looking for a long term project cruising boat for a few years from now. I know, don't say it. I'll say it. Don't get me started. VBG I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I bought Stella Blue. It evolved into the project page: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was ready for my intended purpose. On the other hand, I know every nut, bolt, screw and wire on the boat. That comes in handy. 60K is pretty high. I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot of demand for good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos. Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in the right place. Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rod rollin
I had the rod off yesterday and the coil fit in my car. Oh the wonders of driving an old station wagon, I love my car. I drove 1.5 hours each way to leave the rigging at the shop. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 5:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: .25 rod diameter x 200 = 50 inches or 4' 2 diameter circle. When I had my headstay done, I made an X using 1 x 4, and made the coil about 5 ft around. Fit easily on the roof racks of my car, and I drove the 2 1/2 hrs to the rigger to save time and talk about options and give him a check to start work. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc: *Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com *Sent: *Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:56:10 PM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Navtec recommends coiling no less than 200 times diameter. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On May 13, 2015, at 10:35 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: No idea. Rigger is over an hour away. As it stands now he's asked me to ship him the upper *and* lower so that he can ensure the new fitting fits with the rest of the rig. 3' to 4' coils is what was recommended, which sounds tight to me but he's the expert so I trust him. I'll be off to the boat to collect the two pieces of rod after work today, then straight to purolator. This must be some kind of sign .. I think that Neptune is telling me to move my boat to Georgian bay. I bet I can get it trucked up there by the time that rod is ready. I'm already paid up for the season though so I guess I'de be a fool to do it. Georgian bay is calling though. One can only sail to the thousand islands so many times (two and three week trips both of the past two years, time to start spending vacation time a little differently). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts
I ordered the part from Rosborough Boats. Just the Freshwater Pump Assembly. Reasonable price From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 11:31 AM To: CC List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts I believe Graham was saying he rebuilt his himself. I think he was also referring to the raw water pump. He's not the first I've heard of rebuilding a leaking raw water pump. On May 14, 2015 8:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Graham Who does the rebuild of these? It sounds like a faster and simpler solution Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 9:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Graham Collins Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts Hi Mike! Were it mine I'd rebuild it first - my engine is raw water cooled and started dripping, took a couple of seals and not a lot of work to get it right. For parts as has been noted Rosborough is the official marine dealer currently. If you are around Burnside you could try Liftow, they are no longer the dealer but may have some bits left. They are up at the top of Wright Ave, up the hill coming up from the harbor. Another possibility is DAC Industrial, they used to be a Yanmar industrial dealer but got busted selling marine parts when they were not supposed to. They may also have some old stock, I got a gasket and a belt from them last season. The Marine diesel direct site is great for diagrams and info, it annoys the heck out of me that they can't sell out of their region. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2015-05-13 11:25 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: Try here: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mddpage_ident=Y00F5062-34model=3GM30Fmanufacturer=Yanmartitle=COOLING%20FRESH%20WATER%20PUMPquant_position=4catalog=Y00F5062printparts=printservice=printoperators=comment1= The answer is always the more expensive one! Joel On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F Have come across two part numbers at different costs. 1. 128695-42010 Cooling Fresh Water Pump . Generally selling for around $270 USD 2. 121000-42100 Fresh Water Pump Assembly. Selling $176.95 CAD at boat house Is the second a component of the first? Anyone know the difference and which is needed to be replaced when the seals start to go resulting in the leak from weeping port? Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551tel:301%20541%208551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
Be a decent derelict live aboard. Slap a patch and some sealant on the hole(s) in the deck. Do the minimum to the interior. Move in. I've seen as bad or worse. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 8:57 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: That boat has been on yachtsalvage for some time. The buyer is looking at 4-5000 for a rudder, countless hours of fiberglass work and who -knows- what. It would not surprise me if it is parted out on craigslist in a few weeks. On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 9:42 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bids are now up to $191. NO K. Nearly $200. Interesting to watch, I hope she finds a home and someone with the time and skills. Nate On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 8:24 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: you wrote: ship... Project by all means. Always liked the LF38. Looking for a long term project cruising boat for a few years from now. I know, don't say it. I'll say it. Don't get me started. VBG I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I bought Stella Blue. It evolved into the project page: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was ready for my intended purpose. On the other hand, I know every nut, bolt, screw and wire on the boat. That comes in handy. 60K is pretty high. I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot of demand for good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos. Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in the right place. Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rod rollin
Or you drove 30 mins to rigger and 60 mins in Million Dollar Saloon in Mississauga? :) On May 14, 2015, at 09:25, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the rod off yesterday and the coil fit in my car. Oh the wonders of driving an old station wagon, I love my car. I drove 1.5 hours each way to leave the rigging at the shop. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 5:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: .25 rod diameter x 200 = 50 inches or 4' 2 diameter circle. When I had my headstay done, I made an X using 1 x 4, and made the coil about 5 ft around. Fit easily on the roof racks of my car, and I drove the 2 1/2 hrs to the rigger to save time and talk about options and give him a check to start work. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:56:10 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Navtec recommends coiling no less than 200 times diameter. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On May 13, 2015, at 10:35 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: No idea. Rigger is over an hour away. As it stands now he's asked me to ship him the upper and lower so that he can ensure the new fitting fits with the rest of the rig. 3' to 4' coils is what was recommended, which sounds tight to me but he's the expert so I trust him. I'll be off to the boat to collect the two pieces of rod after work today, then straight to purolator. This must be some kind of sign .. I think that Neptune is telling me to move my boat to Georgian bay. I bet I can get it trucked up there by the time that rod is ready. I'm already paid up for the season though so I guess I'de be a fool to do it. Georgian bay is calling though. One can only sail to the thousand islands so many times (two and three week trips both of the past two years, time to start spending vacation time a little differently). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
Bids are now up to $191. NO K. Nearly $200. Interesting to watch, I hope she finds a home and someone with the time and skills. Nate On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 8:24 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: you wrote: ship... Project by all means. Always liked the LF38. Looking for a long term project cruising boat for a few years from now. I know, don't say it. I'll say it. Don't get me started. VBG I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I bought Stella Blue. It evolved into the project page: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was ready for my intended purpose. On the other hand, I know every nut, bolt, screw and wire on the boat. That comes in handy. 60K is pretty high. I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot of demand for good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos. Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in the right place. Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts
I believe Graham was saying he rebuilt his himself. I think he was also referring to the raw water pump. He's not the first I've heard of rebuilding a leaking raw water pump. On May 14, 2015 8:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Graham Who does the rebuild of these? It sounds like a faster and simpler solution Mike *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Graham Collins via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 9:35 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Graham Collins *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts Hi Mike! Were it mine I'd rebuild it first - my engine is raw water cooled and started dripping, took a couple of seals and not a lot of work to get it right. For parts as has been noted Rosborough is the official marine dealer currently. If you are around Burnside you could try Liftow, they are no longer the dealer but may have some bits left. They are up at the top of Wright Ave, up the hill coming up from the harbor. Another possibility is DAC Industrial, they used to be a Yanmar industrial dealer but got busted selling marine parts when they were not supposed to. They may also have some old stock, I got a gasket and a belt from them last season. The Marine diesel direct site is great for diagrams and info, it annoys the heck out of me that they can't sell out of their region. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2015-05-13 11:25 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: Try here: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mddpage_ident=Y00F5062-34model=3GM30Fmanufacturer=Yanmartitle=COOLING%20FRESH%20WATER%20PUMPquant_position=4catalog=Y00F5062printparts=printservice=printoperators=comment1= The answer is always the more expensive one! Joel On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F Have come across two part numbers at different costs. 1. 128695-42010 Cooling Fresh Water Pump . Generally selling for around $270 USD 2. 121000-42100 Fresh Water Pump Assembly. Selling $176.95 CAD at boat house Is the second a component of the first? Anyone know the difference and which is needed to be replaced when the seals start to go resulting in the leak from weeping port? Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
I would be concerned about any declared or undeclared liens for previous work or storage. Those might be substantial, and inheirited in any transfer of ownership. Bill Bina On 5/14/2015 9:57 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: That boat has been on yachtsalvage for some time. The buyer is looking at 4-5000 for a rudder, countless hours of fiberglass work and who -knows- what. It would not surprise me if it is parted out on craigslist in a few weeks. On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 9:42 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bids are now up to $191. NO K. Nearly $200. Interesting to watch, I hope she finds a home and someone with the time and skills. Nate On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 8:24 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: you wrote: ship... Project by all means. Always liked the LF38. Looking for a long term project cruising boat for a few years from now. I know, don't say it. I'll say it. Don't get me started. VBG I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I bought Stella Blue. It evolved into the project page: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was ready for my intended purpose. On the other hand, I know every nut, bolt, screw and wire on the boat. That comes in handy. 60K is pretty high. I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot of demand for good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos. Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in the right place. Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com http://www.wbryant.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts
Thanks Graham Who does the rebuild of these? It sounds like a faster and simpler solution Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 9:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Graham Collins Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts Hi Mike! Were it mine I'd rebuild it first - my engine is raw water cooled and started dripping, took a couple of seals and not a lot of work to get it right. For parts as has been noted Rosborough is the official marine dealer currently. If you are around Burnside you could try Liftow, they are no longer the dealer but may have some bits left. They are up at the top of Wright Ave, up the hill coming up from the harbor. Another possibility is DAC Industrial, they used to be a Yanmar industrial dealer but got busted selling marine parts when they were not supposed to. They may also have some old stock, I got a gasket and a belt from them last season. The Marine diesel direct site is great for diagrams and info, it annoys the heck out of me that they can't sell out of their region. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2015-05-13 11:25 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: Try here: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mddpage_ident=Y00F5062-34model=3GM30Fmanufacturer=Yanmartitle=COOLING%20FRESH%20WATER%20PUMPquant_position=4catalog=Y00F5062printparts=printservice=printoperators=comment1= The answer is always the more expensive one! Joel On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F Have come across two part numbers at different costs. 1. 128695-42010 Cooling Fresh Water Pump . Generally selling for around $270 USD 2. 121000-42100 Fresh Water Pump Assembly. Selling $176.95 CAD at boat house Is the second a component of the first? Anyone know the difference and which is needed to be replaced when the seals start to go resulting in the leak from weeping port? Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
That’s OK Russ, We don’t mind. You’re our sweetest old fuddy duddy” and a very helpful sailor! See ya in Telegraph Harbor where you can teach me a couple more terms. Ha, Lee On May 14, 2015, at 11:01 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
I'd be happy if more sailors would simply learn the difference between deck, and, topsides. Bill Bina. On 5/14/2015 2:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ /Sweet /35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Thanks Russ, I think I represent the younger (I have grey!) generation of sailors on this list and I'm happy to be corrected. Using the right words for things on a sailboat is pretty important .. especially the go parts, and especially when you're underway! Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 2:30 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'd be happy if more sailors would simply learn the difference between deck, and, topsides. Bill Bina. On 5/14/2015 2:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller
I am very happy with the Indigo prop on my boat. Both better and quieter :) Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 1:46 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Aaron Rouhi; tim Subject: Re: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller Few years back, I switched to a Campbell Sailer on my 30-1 with 2QM15. Very happy with the result. Much less vibration and prop walk. Great improvement compare to the old MW 2 blade... Cheers, Aaron Admiral Maggie 79 30-1 On May 13, 2015, at 10:42 PM, tim via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, I am considering an Indigo 3 blade propeller to be used in conjunction with my Atomic 4 (present 2 blade). Just curious if anyone has used the propeller, and if they have seen performance improvements. Thank you for your time. Tim SV Sly Fox. CC 29’ MK1 (1976) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller
Few years back, I switched to a Campbell Sailer on my 30-1 with 2QM15. Very happy with the result. Much less vibration and prop walk. Great improvement compare to the old MW 2 blade... Cheers, Aaron Admiral Maggie 79 30-1 On May 13, 2015, at 10:42 PM, tim via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, I am considering an Indigo 3 blade propeller to be used in conjunction with my Atomic 4 (present 2 blade). Just curious if anyone has used the propeller, and if they have seen performance improvements. Thank you for your time. Tim SV Sly Fox. CC 29’ MK1 (1976) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller
I recently owned a Ranger 29 that had the Indigo prop powered by an A-4. It was great, drove the boat well, never had any problems. Mike From: tim [mailto:hobie1...@comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 7:42 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller Hi, I am considering an Indigo 3 blade propeller to be used in conjunction with my Atomic 4 (present 2 blade). Just curious if anyone has used the propeller, and if they have seen performance improvements. Thank you for your time. Tim SV Sly Fox. CC 29' MK1 (1976) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
Or end up locally at :Mass Marine Parts (http://www.massmarineparts.com http://www.massmarineparts.com/). They have a few CC’s parted out (CC 29 CC 34 are listed on their front page). Search on “CC” to get a full listing. - Paul E. 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On May 14, 2015, at 10:30 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Thu, 14 May 2015 09:57:05 -0400 From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA Message-ID: cael16p9-gf1m2dxdex6np2we+ltxh3ztjnrezzuyeepjgrh...@mail.gmail.com mailto:cael16p9-gf1m2dxdex6np2we+ltxh3ztjnrezzuyeepjgrh...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 That boat has been on yachtsalvage for some time. The buyer is looking at 4-5000 for a rudder, countless hours of fiberglass work and who -knows- what. It would not surprise me if it is parted out on craigslist in a few weeks. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Rob, you are sort of correct .. my mast is laid down on my boat right now with most of the overhand over the bow. There's at least ten feet of mast hanging over the water up there and it happens to be the top of the mast, right where I needed to unscrew those tangs. I started out as you described, in my tender, going round and round with a little help from the admiral up on deck .. then I realized! Because the shroud is not connected to anything on the other end I could angle it up straight enough to turn the tang without having to go round and round with the shroud. I instantly felt stupid, but relieved that the job got so much easier. Whatever though, you do what you have to do .. I've done weirder stuff than that to make things work on the boat. Thankfully we had nice weather yesterday ... not like the day before when I was fighting wind and waves in my 8' Walker Bay tender to get the rigger aboard. Two grown men, complete with knees and other body parts to further complicate the row, made it kind of an awkward trip. But you gotta do what you gotta do http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--Ki6lcIT7--/18omqiw9mleoyjpg.jpg . Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mike et al: Simple answer.NOcan't be done with the mast up. Several problems doing it with the mast up.the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. I say this as I assume Steve's rig assembles like mine. Steve, did you rotate the tang and shroud as one to remove it from the mast? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-13 1:17 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Stevan Plavsa *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one
Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
As i understand it, the tip to hull clearance will effect vibrations but not prop-walk. The pitch is the leading effect on prop-walk. A larger diameter prop will require less pitch to produce the same thrust and subsequently less walk. Likewise a smaller prop will require more pitch for the same thrust and subsequently more prop-walk. Why do you think the boat was over propped? The only indicator I would use to identify over-propped is weather or not the engine could reach full rated RPM (if it was a diesel I'd say without blowing black smoke). You can work around prop-walk by punching the throttle to get reverse motion and then putting it in neutral. Steer where you need to go and if needed punch it again as necessary to get more reverse motion. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On May 14, 2015 4:10 PM, Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Boat was significantly over-propped when I acquired her. Largely because transmission ratio is 2.2:1 not 2.62:1 as stamped on the casing. While the props that came with the boat (a Gori 15X10 and a 3 blade fixed 14X9) were too big, prop walk was not an issue. Just installed a Campbell Sailor 12x6 and the prop walk is severe (in spite of the additional tip to hull clearance). It is basically impossible to turn the bow to port in reverse . The bow swings to starboard and then once there is some movement through the water will crab sideways, but the bow will not swing around to port. I have not found any combination of throttle and rudder position that makes the situation any better. I need to replace the prop to avoid getting into trouble in close quarters at some point. Question to CC 29-2 owners: Has anyone found a prop that works well going forward and in reverse. Thanks in advance. Martin Recalculating CC 29-2 Mimico Cruising Club ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List haul out.
What are asking? Are you trying to decide how best to apply 2 coats of bottom paint or are you asking what all to do and in what order to get out and back in quickly? On May 14, 2015 3:37 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Need to put on two coats of antifouling paint. What is the best, efficient time table for a haul out? What is the fastest way of doing it? We have a lift I can use. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List haul out.
Need to put on two coats of antifouling paint. What is the best, efficient time table for a haul out?What is the fastest way of doing it? We have a lift I can use.___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts
Hi Mike I meant as a DIY project... there are not a lot of parts in one of those. But you could also try DAC or one of the others, I'm sure they would be OK with rebuilding it. The only part that might be iffy is pressing in a new bearing. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2015-05-14 9:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Thanks Graham Who does the rebuild of these? It sounds like a faster and simpler solution Mike *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Graham Collins via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 9:35 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Graham Collins *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts Hi Mike! Were it mine I'd rebuild it first - my engine is raw water cooled and started dripping, took a couple of seals and not a lot of work to get it right. For parts as has been noted Rosborough is the official marine dealer currently. If you are around Burnside you could try Liftow, they are no longer the dealer but may have some bits left. They are up at the top of Wright Ave, up the hill coming up from the harbor. Another possibility is DAC Industrial, they used to be a Yanmar industrial dealer but got busted selling marine parts when they were not supposed to. They may also have some old stock, I got a gasket and a belt from them last season. The Marine diesel direct site is great for diagrams and info, it annoys the heck out of me that they can't sell out of their region. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2015-05-13 11:25 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: Try here: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mddpage_ident=Y00F5062-34model=3GM30Fmanufacturer=Yanmartitle=COOLING%20FRESH%20WATER%20PUMPquant_position=4catalog=Y00F5062printparts=printservice=printoperators=comment1= The answer is always the more expensive one! Joel On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F Have come across two part numbers at different costs. 1.128695-42010 “Cooling Fresh Water Pump” . Generally selling for around $270 USD 2.121000-42100 “Fresh Water Pump Assembly”. Selling $176.95 CAD at boat house Is the second a component of the first? Anyone know the difference and which is needed to be replaced when the seals start to go resulting in the leak from weeping port? Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
Boat was significantly over-propped when I acquired her. Largely because transmission ratio is 2.2:1 not 2.62:1 as stamped on the casing. While the props that came with the boat (a Gori 15X10 and a 3 blade fixed 14X9) were too big, prop walk was not an issue. Just installed a Campbell Sailor 12x6 and the prop walk is severe (in spite of the additional tip to hull clearance). It is basically impossible to turn the bow to port in reverse . The bow swings to starboard and then once there is some movement through the water will crab sideways, but the bow will not swing around to port. I have not found any combination of throttle and rudder position that makes the situation any better. I need to replace the prop to avoid getting into trouble in close quarters at some point. Question to CC 29-2 owners: Has anyone found a prop that works well going forward and in reverse. Thanks in advance. Martin Recalculating CC 29-2 Mimico Cruising Club ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
I don't have a lot to add on this subject except for some good photographs of a dismasted sailboat--a Catalina 27. The cause of the dismasting was failed chain plates and sailing in 40-50 knot winds. Pictures are on my most recent blogpost. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 14, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, you are sort of correct .. my mast is laid down on my boat right now with most of the overhand over the bow. There's at least ten feet of mast hanging over the water up there and it happens to be the top of the mast, right where I needed to unscrew those tangs. I started out as you described, in my tender, going round and round with a little help from the admiral up on deck .. then I realized! Because the shroud is not connected to anything on the other end I could angle it up straight enough to turn the tang without having to go round and round with the shroud. I instantly felt stupid, but relieved that the job got so much easier. Whatever though, you do what you have to do .. I've done weirder stuff than that to make things work on the boat. Thankfully we had nice weather yesterday ... not like the day before when I was fighting wind and waves in my 8' Walker Bay tender to get the rigger aboard. Two grown men, complete with knees and other body parts to further complicate the row, made it kind of an awkward trip. But you gotta do what you gotta do. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mike et al: Simple answer.NOcan't be done with the mast up. Several problems doing it with the mast up.the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. I say this as I assume Steve's rig assembles like mine. Steve, did you rotate the tang and shroud as one to remove it from the mast? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-13 1:17 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsa Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures
Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
You could plug your specs in here and see what the recommendation is: http://www.vicprop.com/displacement_size.php I would have guessed a Gori 15X10 to be a little big, maybe the 14X9.5 is OK. The 12X6 seems too small. If it cannot bite the water and stay connected it will churn - cavitation - and the effect may be prop walk. Acting more like a centrifugal impeller than a screw. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 14 May 2015 16:10:22 -0400 From: Martin Kane martink...@sympatico.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2 Message-ID: blu437-smtp450fc0619106756cf69f2abd...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Boat was significantly over-propped when I acquired her. Largely because transmission ratio is 2.2:1 not 2.62:1 as stamped on the casing. While the props that came with the boat (a Gori 15X10 and a 3 blade fixed 14X9) were too big, prop walk was not an issue. Just installed a Campbell Sailor 12x6 and the prop walk is severe (in spite of the additional tip to hull clearance). It is basically impossible to turn the bow to port in reverse . The bow swings to starboard and then once there is some movement through the water will crab sideways, but the bow will not swing around to port. I have not found any combination of throttle and rudder position that makes the situation any better. I need to replace the prop to avoid getting into trouble in close quarters at some point. Question to CC 29-2 owners: Has anyone found a prop that works well going forward and in reverse. Thanks in advance. Martin Recalculating CC 29-2 Mimico Cruising Club ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
While pain, take it in and out of gear and you will be fine. Prop walk can be your friend once you learn to work with it. My 2 cents Bill Walker CnC 36 Mi Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Thursday, May 14, 2015 Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Boat was significantly over-propped when I acquired her. Largely because transmission ratio is 2.2:1 not 2.62:1 as stamped on the casing. While the props that came with the boat (a Gori 15X10 and a 3 blade fixed 14X9) were too big, prop walk was not an issue. Just installed a Campbell Sailor 12x6 and the prop walk is severe (in spite of the additional tip to hull clearance). It is basically impossible to turn the bow to port in reverse . The bow swings to starboard and then once there is some movement through the water will crab sideways, but the bow will not swing around to port. I have not found any combination of throttle and rudder position that makes the situation any better. I need to replace the prop to avoid getting into trouble in close quarters at some point. Question to CC 29-2 owners: Has anyone found a prop that works well going forward and in reverse. Thanks in advance. Martin Recalculating CC 29-2 Mimico Cruising Club ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rig - crack?
Steve: Instantly, now I feel stupidwe put the standing rigging together just once and we did it the 'dumb way'.around and around but in the boatyard with lots of roomnow I know to angle the shroud up and rotate the tang.daaa I should have known Navtec would have not designed something so complicated. You are doing the prudent thing replacing the cap shroud 'eye' at the spreader. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-14 1:21 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: Rob, you are sort of correct .. my mast is laid down on my boat right now with most of the overhand over the bow. There's at least ten feet of mast hanging over the water up there and it happens to be the top of the mast, right where I needed to unscrew those tangs. I started out as you described, in my tender, going round and round with a little help from the admiral up on deck .. then I realized! Because the shroud is not connected to anything on the other end I could angle it up straight enough to turn the tang without having to go round and round with the shroud. I instantly felt stupid, but relieved that the job got so much easier. Whatever though, you do what you have to do .. I've done weirder stuff than that to make things work on the boat. Thankfully we had nice weather yesterday ... not like the day before when I was fighting wind and waves in my 8' Walker Bay tender to get the rigger aboard. Two grown men, complete with knees and other body parts to further complicate the row, made it kind of an awkward trip. But you gotta do what you gotta do http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--Ki6lcIT7--/18omqiw9mleoyjpg.jpg. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mike et al: Simple answer.NOcan't be done with the mast up. Several problems doing it with the mast up.the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. I say this as I assume Steve's rig assembles like mine. Steve, did you rotate the tang and shroud as one to remove it from the mast? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-13 1:17 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Stevan Plavsa *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID:
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
you wrote: Steve: Instantly, now I feel stupid Welcome to the club. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ /Sweet /35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
There is probably some prop walk in reverse with any propeller and any boat. I have the same issue on my 27ft. boat (with Perkins diesel). As someone already mentioned, the only way I found to back out of the slip is to either drive or steer, but never at the same time. Short burst of power and back to neutral, and then you can steer. This works well in most situations, unless you deal with stronger wind, especially from the side to which your prop walks. I had a situation where I decided to motor backwards from the narrow fairway. The good news is that this year my Club assigned me a different slip; the fairway is a few feet wider and backing out of the slip I have to turn to port (where the prop walk takes me!). Problem solved. Marek 1994 C270, in Ottawa Martin Kane via CnC-List wrote: Boat was significantly over-propped when I acquired her. Largely because transmission ratio is 2.2:1 not 2.62:1 as stamped on the casing. While the props that came with the boat (a Gori 15X10 and a 3 blade fixed 14X9) were too big, prop walk was not an issue. Just installed a Campbell Sailor 12x6 and the prop walk is severe (in spite of the additional tip to hull clearance). It is basically impossible to turn the bow to port in reverse . The bow swings to starboard and then once there is some movement through the water will crab sideways, but the bow will not swing around to port. I have not found any combination of throttle and rudder position that makes the situation any better. I need to replace the prop to avoid getting into trouble in close quarters at some point. Question to CC 29-2 owners: Has anyone found a prop that works well going forward and in reverse. Thanks in advance. Martin Recalculating CC 29-2 Mimico Cruising Club ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.comhttp://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
