Re: Stus-List Mertec folding prop removal

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Dennis, if you did this underwater where you sail, isn't that like trolling for 
alligators???RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 9:33 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mertec folding prop removal
   
I removed mine underwater with the method below.

Insert a 3/8" extension in the square hole in the prop nut.  Attach a ratchet 
or handle.  Twist it counterclockwise.  The Cotter key through the hub and prop 
nut will shear and the nut will come out.  After that, a gear puller should 
remove the hub.  Once the hub and nut are off, remove all of the sheared pieces 
of the key with a small punch.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I brace on them with my feet while working the main and sailpack.  Very
strong.  Be careful they are slippery when wet.  I've considered leather
wrap or rope wrap to make them less slippery.

Josh
On Mar 15, 2016 11:12 PM, "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks,  That's exactly what I'd like to do.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 15, 2016 6:51:28 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
>
> I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list.
> Very reasonable to work with.   I can't remember if it was $200 each or
> total for the pair.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 15, 2016 3:35 PM, "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Call Doug Guierella at Klacko Stainless in st Carharines
>>
>> Sent from Joe Bognar
>>
>>
>> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
>> Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from
>> many years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area
>> that can fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody
>> have any suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
>> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Thanks, That's exactly what I'd like to do. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 6:51:28 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails 



I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list. Very 
reasonable to work with. I can't remember if it was $200 each or total for the 
pair. 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 


Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Mar 15, 2016 3:35 PM, "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Call Doug Guierella at Klacko Stainless in st Carharines 

Sent from Joe Bognar 


On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 




I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall. 
Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from many 
years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area that can 
fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel. Anybody have any 
suggestions? 



Bob Hickson, P. ENG., 
Sent from Samsung Mobile 





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Re: Stus-List Mertec folding prop removal

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I removed mine underwater with the method below.

Insert a 3/8" extension in the square hole in the prop nut.  Attach a
ratchet or handle.  Twist it counterclockwise.  The Cotter key through the
hub and prop nut will shear and the nut will come out.  After that, a gear
puller should remove the hub.  Once the hub and nut are off, remove all of
the sheared pieces of the key with a small punch.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Mar 15, 2016 at 9:09 PM, Curtis McDaniel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> I have a C&C 30 MK1 “675”  It has a 2GM20F with a folding Mertec prop.
> I’m trying to remove it. I have the blades off and there is a collar that
> has a 3/8 square drive showing.
>
> My question is how do I get the rest of the prop off to install my new
> Cambel sailprop.
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Capt, Curtis
>
>
>
> (2) - Blades
> (1) - Hub
> (1) - Monel Pivot Pin
> (1) - Key
> (4) - Monel Cotter Pins
> (1) – Nut
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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Stus-List Mertec folding prop removal

[Curtis McDaniel via CnC-List]

I have a C&C 30 MK1 “675”  It has a 2GM20F with a folding Mertec prop.  I’m 
trying to remove it. I have the blades off and there is a collar that has a 3/8 
square drive showing. 
My question is how do I get the rest of the prop off to install my new Cambel 
sailprop. 
Thanks for your help
Capt, Curtis

(2) - Blades 
(1) - Hub
(1) - Monel Pivot Pin
(1) - Key
(4) - Monel Cotter Pins
(1) – Nut



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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto whitewater.  Had them make SS rails made for a J30.  Nice work.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Mar 15, 2016 at 5:51 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list.
> Very reasonable to work with.   I can't remember if it was $200 each or
> total for the pair.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 15, 2016 3:35 PM, "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Call Doug Guierella at Klacko Stainless in st Carharines
>>
>> Sent from Joe Bognar
>>
>>
>> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
>> Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from
>> many years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area
>> that can fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody
>> have any suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
>> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

FYI my bolt was too short on the unthreaded portion and the threaded
portion wore into the lower mast fitting.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 12, 2016 12:22 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn
> around the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94
> 37/40+. I'm not sure of the manufacturer.
> On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive?
> I'm sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the
> thread.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list.
Very reasonable to work with.   I can't remember if it was $200 each or
total for the pair.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 15, 2016 3:35 PM, "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Call Doug Guierella at Klacko Stainless in st Carharines
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
> Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from
> many years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area
> that can fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody
> have any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Doubling up on what many others have already said; take time and definitely get 
the needed rehab and therapy.Ron


  From: Joseph Bognar via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joseph Bognar 
 Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 2:52 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation
   
Sorry to hear about Gladys misfortune . I hope that the recovery goes well 

Sent from Joe Bognar

On Mar 15, 2016, at 3:41 PM, allen via CnC-List  wrote:



Sorry to hear of Gladys' misfortune.  Same thing happened to my mate on Block 
Island.  Lesson learned:  make sure the break is properly set, particularly if 
it's a spiral fracture. Sande needed to have hers re-broken and reset after we 
returned from the cruise.  No fun.   Also, plan on extensive rehab/physical 
therapy.  Sande underwent 18 months rehab for her spiral fracture and now has 
95% functionality. Our prayers go with you and we hope she has just a simple 
fracture.
Allen MilesS/v Septima
From: Stu via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:05 PMTo: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation
Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home. Thursday night, Gladys 
was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement inside the resort.  After 
almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a broken wrist.  It looked 
serious enough that we had to book with an orthopedic doctor as soon as 
possible. Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having 
a permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
and then we can start thinking about going home. Even though we are covered by 
insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and we submit the claims.  But the 
surgery was money up front. If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C 
burgee, you will have to wait until we get home. Stu 
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Sorry to hear about Gladys misfortune . I hope that the recovery goes well 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Mar 15, 2016, at 3:41 PM, allen via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Sorry to hear of Gladys' misfortune.  Same thing happened to my mate on Block 
> Island.  Lesson learned:  make sure the break is properly set, particularly 
> if it's a spiral fracture. Sande needed to have hers re-broken and reset 
> after we returned from the cruise.  No fun.  
>  
> Also, plan on extensive rehab/physical therapy.  Sande underwent 18 months 
> rehab for her spiral fracture and now has 95% functionality.
>  
> Our prayers go with you and we hope she has just a simple fracture.
> Allen Miles
> S/v Septima
> 
> From: Stu via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:05 PM
> To: C&C Email List
> Cc: Stu
> Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation
> 
> Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
> unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.
>  
> Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
> inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a 
> broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an 
> orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.
>  
> Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
> permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
> and then we can start thinking about going home.
>  
> Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and 
> we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.
>  
> If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to 
> wait until we get home.
>  
> Stu
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[allen via CnC-List]

Sorry to hear of Gladys' misfortune.  Same thing happened to my mate on Block 
Island.  Lesson learned:  make sure the break is properly set, particularly if 
it's a spiral fracture. Sande needed to have hers re-broken and reset after we 
returned from the cruise.  No fun.  

Also, plan on extensive rehab/physical therapy.  Sande underwent 18 months 
rehab for her spiral fracture and now has 95% functionality.

Our prayers go with you and we hope she has just a simple fracture.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima


From: Stu via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:05 PM
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation


Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a 
broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an orthopedic 
doctor as soon as possible.

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
and then we can start thinking about going home.

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and 
we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to 
wait until we get home.

Stu
 





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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Call Doug Guierella at Klacko Stainless in st Carharines 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
> Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from many 
> years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area that 
> can fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody have any 
> suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
> ___
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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Maybe this youtube video will help?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry5Vap15ak8


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 15, 2016, at 1:44 PM, David  wrote:
> 
> Pail,
> 
> Thank you but I am talking about the round latches above and levers below 
> that dog down the hatches.   I assume you are talking about the hinge rod?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
> From: dre...@gmail.com 
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2016 12:27:09 -0400
> CC: davidrisc...@msn.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> David,
> 
> This past weekend I removed the latch on my forward hatch.   I used a little 
> bit of PB blaster and sanded clean the stainless rod (mine was mostly 
> painted).  I loosened the acorn nut just a little and with a hammer hit the 
> end of the acorn nut nudging the rod bit by bit.  When I got close to having 
> no threads in the acorn nut, I used a philips screw driver to chase the rod 
> the rest of the way.   I am not sure if all hatches are the same, but on mine 
> the hinge holes near the acorn nut were press fitted whereas the other end 
> was a free fit.  In other words, once I got the rod end past the first hinge, 
> the rod moved easily through the other end. 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:56:02 -0400
> From: David mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>>
> To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I have attempted to remove the latches from the forward and mid-ship hatch 
> for lense replacement and was stopped by the frozen fasteners holding them 
> on. Fearing they would break and and I could not get replacements I stopped.  
> Is it as simple as PB blaster and some patience?
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  Checked by Avast Antivirus. www.avast.com 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Try Klacko in St Catherines or Stainless Outfitters in Barrie ……

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 12:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson 
Subject: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from many 
years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area that can 
fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody have any 
suggestions?



Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
Sent from Samsung Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I replaced the exterior handrails on my LF38 years ago & it is well worth the 
effort!  I can send you pics of some of the details if you wish.  I designed 
mine and had a local Annapolis marine fabricator build them for me.  I now 
spend much less time sanding and more time sailing!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 
(presently in Baltimore)
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
> Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from many 
> years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area that 
> can fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody have any 
> suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.Once I started stripping them, 
I realized that they are really thin from many years of sanding. I am looking 
for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area that can fabricate replacement grab 
rails from stainless steel.  Anybody have any suggestions?


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,Sent from Samsung Mobile___

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

David,

This past weekend I removed the latch on my forward hatch.   I used a little 
bit of PB blaster and sanded clean the stainless rod (mine was mostly painted). 
 I loosened the acorn nut just a little and with a hammer hit the end of the 
acorn nut nudging the rod bit by bit.  When I got close to having no threads in 
the acorn nut, I used a philips screw driver to chase the rod the rest of the 
way.   I am not sure if all hatches are the same, but on mine the hinge holes 
near the acorn nut were press fitted whereas the other end was a free fit.  In 
other words, once I got the rod end past the first hinge, the rod moved easily 
through the other end. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:56:02 -0400
> From: David mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>>
> To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I have attempted to remove the latches from the forward and mid-ship hatch 
> for lense replacement and was stopped by the frozen fasteners holding them 
> on. Fearing they would break and and I could not get replacements I stopped.  
> Is it as simple as PB blaster and some patience?
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[David via CnC-List]

I have attempted to remove the latches from the forward and mid-ship hatch for 
lense replacement and was stopped by the frozen fasteners holding them on. 
Fearing they would break and and I could not get replacements I stopped.  Is it 
as simple as PB blaster and some patience?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2016 14:51:33 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; f...@postaudio.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: jda...@gmail.com

I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred for 
the effort you went to getting these made and shipped!  Here are some before + 
after photos showing how great they look:
https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9

It took me 8 hours, about 4 for each window. But if you're not an OCD 
perfectionist it might take you half that time. 
And a few tips for those who haven't installed yet (sorry this turned out very 
long): - Surprisingly, dis-assembly went quite quick - I expected some 
seriously corroded / stuck fasteners, but brute force (no breaker bar needed) 
got them all apart without breaking. Used PB Blaster on one, not sure if it 
made a difference. - The lenses were about 1/8" longer than my current ones, 
and didn't quite fit - so I had to sand down a few corners with a Dremel 
sanding drum. I'm not sure if there were slight variations in the frame size 
from year to year, or if it's just a cutting inaccuracy (it's hard cutting to 
within millimeter precision, so I don't blame the fabricator!). I used a coarse 
sanding drum, then medium, and finished hand sanding with 180 or 320 grit. - 
The biggest time sink comes down to how your hinges are done. The original 
hinges have a cast aluminum tapped (threaded) cylinder attached to the hinge, 
which an SS bolt was screwed into. It's a neat design (no penetrations above 
the hinge means fewer things to seal) but obviously dissimilar metals corrode. 
There are basically two options:- My head hatch already had the hinges 
thru-bolted (drill 1/4" and mount a hex bolt through it from the top). One 
hinge I had done myself when the aluminum disintegrated last year, and the 
other had already been done. However I still had to dremel down the remaining 
cast aluminum cylinder - in order to get the hinges to seat flush with the new 
acrylic, because I don't want to drill a 5/8" clearance hole like the lenses 
originally had. A 1/4" hole is much easier to drill (but then the cylinder 
can't seat in that).- Reuse the existing tapped aluminum. My galley hatch 
ones were in surprisingly good shape. After some cleanup with mineral spirits, 
the original bolts threaded into the aluminum just fine. So I decided to save 
the trouble of cutting them of, and reuse them (with lots of Lanocote or 
TefGel). However drilling 5/8" holes in acrylic is hard, so that created some 
trouble. The fitting is 1/2" but the original holes were 5/8" - you need some 
clearance for expansion. Plas Drill bits max out at 1/2", and I didn't have one 
that size on hand anyway. I did a test drill on the old hatch acrylic with a 
1/2" standard bit, and it took a big chip out of the surface when it exited the 
other side. 1/2" drill bits are hard to use even on wood without chipping. I 
bought a 5/8" Forstner bit and a 5/8" cheap hole saw and went to the shop to 
use the drill press. This page has advice, including on forstner bits for 
acrylic: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htmThe Forstner was very slow and required 
a lot of pressure on the drill press. It didn't melt, but I wouldn't use it 
again for acrylic this thick. The Forstner chipped the edge on the exit. And 
broke the drill stop collar on the drill press. But I didn't have a plywood 
backer, I was using a doubled-over cardboard Amazon box (because I couldn't 
find my drilling backer at the time) - so this was my fault for a dumb idea. On 
the next hole, the hole saw with the aggressive teeth did melt the acrylic, but 
went much faster. Water didn't really seem to slow the melting, but the melted 
bits were not really a problem. The acrylic is so thick and the 5/8" hole quite 
large, that a little melting on the perimeter caused no noticeable damage. 
- 1/4" Plas Drill bit worked great. I used that for the knob latch screws and 
for the two thru-bolts on the head hatch. The thru-bolts I used were 1/4" I 
think, so I jangled the bit around to enlarge the hole so I'd have a bit more 
clearance for heat expansion. If I were to redo the 5/8" holes I think I'd get 
a 1/2" Plas Drill and then enlarge the hole with a Dremel. 
I did all this while we had two gales blow through Seattle this weekend. The 
one on Sunday winds peaked at 57 knots. Finishing the install with a 5 to 8 
degree heel to the boat was fun. :) 
-Patrick1984 C&C Landfall 38Seattle, WA
On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 9:00 AM,   wrote:
-- Forwarded message --
From: Frederick G Street 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 09