Stus-List C 35 Sail

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Not mine  unused C 35 mainsail $1200(CAD) in Vancouver: 
http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/bpo/5497692306.html

Sounds like a pretty good deal for someone!

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List RUDDERS

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Here is my $.02 (CDN) worth on the rudder question:  After a long time with 
looking up NACA designs, discussing with serious designers on boat forums and 
reading the Marcaj book on the aero-hydro dynamics of sailing AND designing a 
new and improved foil, I decided to give Competition Composites a try with mine 
for my CC 35-2.  I gave them my old rudder and they build up a brand new one 
built around my old post and while I haven't raced since I relaunched 2 years 
ago, the rudder feels great.


Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
CC 35-2 #282
Toronto

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: March-19-16 9:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 61

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: 
Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Teak and Holly Floor (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
   2.  Keel Smile (Ainslie)
   3. Re:  Fire blankets (Jim Watts)
   4. Re:  Teak and Holly Floor (Joseph Bognar)
   5. Re:  Fire blankets (Joe Della Barba)
   6. Re:  Fire blankets (Bill Coleman)
   7. Re:  Rudder replacement (Rjcasciato)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2016 17:34:57 + (UTC)
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly Floor
Message-ID:
<986589503.262910.1458408897926.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

That's beautiful. Nice work Eric, and thanks for sharing Erik and Stu. 

Cheers,
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Stu via CnC-List" 
To: "C Email List" 
Cc: "Stu" 
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2016 7:52:52 AM
Subject: Stus-List Teak and Holly Floor 

Eric Dinn has provided a very good sequence of photos of his teak and holly 
floor installation. 
The installation was done on Arbutus, a 1974 C 30 MK I, out of Comox, BC, 
Canada. 
It?s on the Photo Album at: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/teak_holly_floor/
Stu 

___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 


--

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2016 14:07:30 -0400
From: "Ainslie" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Keel Smile
Message-ID: <9B89014A17494AB19EE49268FA2C23C0@User1PC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My keel joint seems to be opening up; there wasn't much sign of it at haul
out, but now it's noticeable. Also, you can see something oozing from the
crack. Whatever it is has an oily texture so I'm guessing it's coming from
the bilge. In the first photo, the vertical stain is the same oily ooze
coming from a welt higher up on the keel stub. I think I have to address it
because if something can get out, then surely water can get in. Three
options: a)rout out the crack and fill with epoxy; b) fill it with 5200 (on
the premise that the keel 'wants' to flex laterally, so fill it with
something flexible); or c)see how it progresses this season and see if I
have an autumn project? I don't think (c) is the best option. I've done this
kind of work before - I'd appreciate hearing what the Listers say.

 

http://jainslieblog.blogspot.ca/

 

Could this have been caused by the way it's sitting in the cradle? FYI, this
keel is a modified bulb, done by MarsKeel about 9 years ago. Thanks for any
input.

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C 35-3

Port of Bayfield

 

-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 


--

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2016 11:13:28 -0700
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I bought one of the $10 Home Depot ones after going through the Safety at
Sea seminar last year. It immediately got repurposed to the home
firefighting team, but has 

Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Good point Bill.

Does your CO2 bottle have a "welding head" on it?
I suspect you were being tongue-in-cheek but it gets us thinking...
Does the CO2 fire extinguisher have a dip tube for liquid 
expectorant? Would a horn on a beer system CO2 (welding head) bottle 
valve work in a pinch?, say to a nod to multi-purpose.


I too brew beer and have a couple of small CO2 bottles and some corny 
kegs to purpose for cruising. Mmm.


As for fire blankets, it's good that the Admiral is a natural fibre 
snob. Cotton & wool are excellent choices for fire blankets and 
duvets. They smoulder, not flash up like synthetics, so toss the 
blankie on it and follow with the nearest water jug, beer, wine, 
whatever and you have a good story with a plus, if you're not putting 
out fires they're warmer if it's damp out (like 7 months on the Wet 
Coast) when used for the principal purpose.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:34 PM 19/03/2016, you wrote:
Viola - Joe just gave me a reason to leave my CO2 bottle on the boat 
- 3 reasons.  1st, (what I got it for ) to blow a big ship horn, 
2nd, to push my favorite craft beer , ( I may have to get a large 
cooler ), and 3rd, put out fires!




Bill Coleman


 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Date: 3/19/2016 4:26 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

CO2 and halon are very nice ways to put out a fire without 
destroying the interior.


CO2 extinguishers tend to be fairly big and halon is expensive now.





Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com



Coquina
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

I seriously considered this on my 51.  Even had Rob design the new rudder.  In 
the end I decided that I couldn't justify the cost.

Why are you looking to change?

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:14 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?
> Got a decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing the 
> pros and cons.
> 
> -- 
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Wipe down with denatured alcohol.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Brian,

As you are using Gmail, try this, it may help.

Got to Gmail Settings, Setting (the little "gear" top right on a browser)

Go to the "Labs" tab (third from the right across the top).

Search for a lab:

Quote selected text
Ryan A

Quote the text you have selected when you reply to a message. (Now works
with the mouse too!)


Enable it and see if that helps with replies from the Digest.

Unfortunately you'll still have to edit the subject line, this wont' help
with that.

Ken H.

On 18 March 2016 at 09:59, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> For starters I reply with a variety of devices and they don't all work the
> same, some are easier than others.
>
> The fact that I am replying to a digest, instead of just one message in
> the digest, causes the subject header to be the Vol and Issue of the
> digest. I can't reply to just one message in the digest. If there was a way
> to do that it would go a long way to fixing the problem. It could also help
> if it only brought over the individual Message being replied to, instead of
> every message in the Digest issue. That would eliminate the mistake of not
> stripping out the unnecessary messages.
>
> When I choose 'reply' the subject line doesn't even appear, so it is not
> 'in my face' reminding me to change it. I have to drop down the subject
> header to see it and then change it. Not sure if there is a setting in
> gmail to change that, I will have to look.
>
> On the other hand, I think it is more of a hassle having to scroll and
> scan thru all of the messages to find the one I want to read. If one could
> click on the relevant subject at the top of the digest and have it take you
> down the page to the message you wanted it would save much more time than
> having read a subject line that said Re: VolXXX Issue aaa.
>
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 21:26:05 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ &
> Melody)
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacrdfk5nxzzgpe-ul2hshoudgay5jmkz1zeutlthc-om...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Brian,
>
> I approached someone else off list as to why/how this happens.  Can you
> possibly give some insights?  If there was legitimately something simple
> that could be done on the server side?  I considered that maybe renaming
> the digest subject to include "DO NOT REPLY" would help?  I've also thought
> that simply having a server rule that rejects all mail with the word DIGEST
> in the subject line?
>
> I guess I've never had a problem so I don't understand what's causing the
> problem.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Brian,

Did you get a quote from Southshore Yachts in Niagara-on-the-Lake?  They
have the original moulds and the CAN$ to US$ exchange is very much in your
favour right now. (30% discount).

http://southshoreyachts.com/

I seem to think Foss Foam Products of Florida may have the correct mould as
well.

http://newrudders.com/

Ken H.



On 18 March 2016 at 14:30, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Rudder is in need of major repair. Got a quote for a replacement for less
> than a repair, but not an exact copy (they don't have a mold). Also 2/3 the
> cost of having a mold made and then a replacement made from that.
> I had drilled a dozen  holes to drain water over the winter to avoid
> freeze expansion causing more damage. Found many of the holes drilled had
> just voids behind them, no foam, others had a gritty white material that
> was saturated with water. Saw pictures here and elsewhere of same rudder
> repair needed.
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 12:21:42 -0400
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
> Message-ID: <2c82d7c8-8e02-4d7f-aec5-d405a536d...@svpaws.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I seriously considered this on my 51.  Even had Rob design the new
> rudder.  In the end I decided that I couldn't justify the cost.
>
> Why are you looking to change?
>
> John
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Not sure how a piece of line would keep a furled sail flat, as it should
be. I see the wisdom of a foam luff. I regularly see furled sailed in highs
winds with a big belly to them, exactly what you don't want cf course. If I
were buying a new sail, I would definitely have  a foam luff or plan on
head sail changes when the wind pipes, which is what we do.

KD

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 1:59 PM sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam.
> His thinking is that the line will never collapse.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>  Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote:
> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and
> would like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a
> foam luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
> be ideal.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Gary,

I asked him at the C Rendezvous in Mystic back in 2012 (we are going again -- 
see cncnortheast.com). 

Rob initially designed a 37 foot boat with a practically vertical bow and stern 
(much like a J) and in just about every way, it is a 37 foot boat. 

But the look kept bugging him. So, and I quote, he "put $40 of fiberglass onto 
the bow and another $40 of fiberglass into the stern."  Same is true for the 34 
series. 

The marketing department didn't want to change the name, so it stayed 37 (and 
34) for a while (adding R, XL or +). Eventually they started calling it the 
37/40 and then after the "40 Series". 

It does save a bit on dock fees and winter storage to call it a 37 :-)


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Mar 18, 2016, at 7:57 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never got a 
chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers overstating 
the length of their designs, why did C understate the length of their 37+"?  
I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not use the LOA like 
almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List masthead sheaves

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

zephyrworks, Garhauer, Harken all have alloy sheaves.

Joel

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 9:49 AM, Jason Ward via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I am looking for another masthead sheave for my lf38.  I have the
> wire/rope sheaves and would like to stay with that system.  Does anyone
> know where you can source them.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

get the foam luff if you intend to sail with the jib
furled...otherwise get a 110% and enjoy sailing
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 1:30 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
 wrote:
> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would
> like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam
> luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
> be ideal.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

To reply to a post from within the digest, hit reply and then highlight 
and delete everything except the post to which you are replying.


Bill Bina

On 3/18/2016 8:59 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
For starters I reply with a variety of devices and they don't all work 
the same, some are easier than others.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Idler Plate Photo Explanation

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Thanks for that. I didn’t go look at the link to Resolute’s fix until now. Yes, 
I have a “traditional” setup with the idler plate bolted to the underside of 
the cockpit sole. And as you say, with the length from the idler pulleys to the 
quadrant, the angle should see a negligible change.

Like you, my idler plate is actually in pretty good shape but since I’m busy 
turning a sow’s ear into a silk purse (actually, I love our C…) and I have a 
brand new Edson Classic pedestal I’m going to replace the whole shebang.

And on another note, every time I have worked with the folks at Edson I have 
had nothing but a good experience. They are at the top of my list of marine 
manufacturers.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

P.S. if anyone needs a used Edson idler plate in the near future…..

> On Mar 16, 2016, at 7:03 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> There should be no issue with your boat as I believe your boat’s steering is 
> configured much differently than Josh’s.  Your idler assembly is below deck 
> while Josh’s sits in a “well” along with the steering cables and radial 
> wheel.   The issue with the 37+ is that the pedestal bolt thread directly 
> into nuts that are held captive in the deck structure.  Because the idler 
> basically sits between the pedestal and the deck, the thickness of the idler 
> plate was a huge issue, to say nothing of the chamfer required around the 
> edges to fit into the confined spaces directly below the pedestal.
>  
> On your boat, even if there’s a slight difference on the plate thickness, it 
> is insignificant unless the radial wheel on the rudder post is less than 2-3 
> feet from the idler sheaves.
>  
> As an aside, many folks seem to have issues with Edson’s use of a mild steel 
> idler plates on their boats.  In most cases, these steel plate idlers were 
> utilized as the strongest steel that could be used in a cost effective 
> manner.  Discussions with Edson also reveal that other idler materials were 
> offered to C for use such as Bronze, but the cost was not acceptable to C 
> thus their choice of using a mild steel part.   In the case of the later 
> model 37+, Edson was not made aware of the deck design change that moved the 
> idler and radial above the deck.
>  
> I’m happy to say that despite having a boat that has spent its entire life in 
> salt water in New England, the mild steel plate idler on Orion, my 1983 
> Landfall 35,  looks and operates just like a brand new component, due to the 
> fact that it sits nice and dry behind the engine and water heater.
>   <>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com