Re: Stus-List 2017 Worldwide C Rendezvous location

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Nice webpage too.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


 

Enough of the regional C rendezvous's.  I suggest we have one big worldwide 
C rendezvous and I've found just the place to host it.

Where?  What better place than The C Lounge, of course.  Here's the website:  


Oh, did I mention you might need to translate the page?  It's in Ulaanbataar, 
Mongolia.  Also, it's a little short on dockside facilities.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List 2017 Worldwide C Rendezvous location

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

That's awesome!

Cheers,
Aaron
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD

On Mar 29, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Enough of the regional C rendezvous's.  I suggest we have one big worldwide 
C rendezvous and I've found just the place to host it.

Where?  What better place than The C Lounge, of course.  Here's the website:  


Oh, did I mention you might need to translate the page?  It's in Ulaanbataar, 
Mongolia.  Also, it's a little short on dockside facilities.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List 2017 Worldwide C Rendezvous location

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Enough of the regional C rendezvous's.  I suggest we have one big
worldwide C rendezvous and I've found just the place to host it.

Where?  What better place than The C Lounge, of course.  Here's the
website:  

Oh, did I mention you might need to translate the page?  It's in
Ulaanbataar, Mongolia.  Also, it's a little short on dockside facilities.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Headsail sock

[David Platt via CnC-List]

I used to have one on another boat.  It had a line that tightened it up 
around the furled foresail from top to bottom.  No flogging whatsoever.  
If I was ordering a new headsail  I would order another cover with it.


Cheers

david
C 32 Wanderer
Burlington ON

On 2016-03-29 07:18 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
There is one on my pier on a J105. I have never seen or heard it flog 
even when howling. Some other boats roller furlers and in mast furlers 
at the club...well many of those flogged (but that was operator error)


On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 8:09 PM Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Headsail Socks:
I own a sock for the headsails.  Bought it used for $100 from a
local sailmaker.   You can raise it and protect any headsail from
UVs.  If it's windy, you can wrap your spin halyards around it
loosely to stop the floppy parts from making flag noises.

The ATN brand sock has a pullstring system that might work
better.  I saw a North product that had a similar X drawstring
design.

With a helper, I could drop the headsail, flake it on deck, and
bag it and store it below, but the sail takes up a lot of room
inside.  And the reason I added the furler was to keep the sail
out of the cabin.  I eventually gave in and paid $800 and had the
UV protection added to my 144% genoa and that's what I use to race
and daysail, shorthanded.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"William Walker via CnC-List" >
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *wwadjo...@aol.com 
*Sent: *Monday, March 28, 2016 6:49:11 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next
door in 20 knows of wind?  I have.  Think flag.
Bill Walker
CnC  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail




On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> wrote:

Just to make it a little more interesting..

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:

http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun /
rain / pollen / whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be
on the furler. ATN's sleeve is a bit pricey but it seems to be the
way to go.

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails
are better protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,  GA




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the
fuller for about five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions?

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With
that said, I went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air.
>
> John
>
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List

<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> wrote:
>>
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about
a new suit of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a
Dacron sun cover for the headsail. His opinion was that they are
typically good for 5-6 years or less, and better suited to use on
sails used for club racing and not left for long term on the
furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more expensive
(which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases
performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in
the long run if you are a cruiser).
>>
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, N
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Re: Stus-List Headsail sock

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

There is one on my pier on a J105. I have never seen or heard it flog even
when howling. Some other boats roller furlers and in mast furlers at the
club...well many of those flogged (but that was operator error)

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 8:09 PM Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Headsail Socks:
> I own a sock for the headsails.  Bought it used for $100 from a local
> sailmaker.   You can raise it and protect any headsail from UVs.  If it's
> windy, you can wrap your spin halyards around it loosely to stop the floppy
> parts from making flag noises.
>
> The ATN brand sock has a pullstring system that might work better.  I saw
> a North product that had a similar X drawstring design.
>
> With a helper, I could drop the headsail, flake it on deck, and bag it and
> store it below, but the sail takes up a lot of room inside.  And the reason
> I added the furler was to keep the sail out of the cabin.  I eventually
> gave in and paid $800 and had the UV protection added to my 144% genoa and
> that's what I use to race and daysail, shorthanded.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"William Walker via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *wwadjo...@aol.com
> *Sent: *Monday, March 28, 2016 6:49:11 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover
>
> Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next door in
> 20 knows of wind?  I have.  Think flag.
> Bill Walker
> CnC  36
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> --
> On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just to make it a little more interesting..
>
> With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:
> 
> http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml
>
> With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain /
> pollen / whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler.
> ATN's sleeve is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go.
>
> Added weight to the sail(s) = 0
>
> it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are
> better protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails.
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier,  GA
>
>
>
>
> John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for
> about five months a year up here.
>
> Decisions, decisions?
>
> ? Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> > On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With that
> said, I went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air.
> >
> > John
> >
> >> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com < 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> wrote:
> >>
> >> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new
> suit of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover
> for the headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6
> years or less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and
> not left for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier,
> stiffer, and more expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and
> slightly decreases performance), but very much more durable (and a better
> value in the long run if you are a cruiser).
> >>
> >> Rick Brass
> >> Washington, N
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto AwlFair.  Good stuff.  I just had 3M Premium Filler on hand.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> My hull came with hundreds of those little holes. At or near the
> waterline. A PO had the original bottom stripped off and replaced with
> glass and epoxy up to the waterline so any in that area were fixed. I just
> lived with those buggers until last year when the hull was repainted.
>
> Like Dennis said, they were just ground out a bit, cleaned and filled, in
> my case with Awlfair, sanded smooth and painted over.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Mar 29, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> Are these small pea sized nearly round shallow holes near the water line?
>
> If so, they're what I call gelcoat pox.  Touche' had hundreds.  I've heard
> reports of other C's with them.
>
> I ground mine out with an air powered right angle die grinder with a cone
> shaped grinding stone.  Took a couple hours but the die grinder is the
> right tool.  Dremel just didn't work.
>
> After grinding, apply acetone wash, fill with 3M Premium Filler, sand
> smooth and paint.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 10:10 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and
>> aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were ripped
>> out right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the
>> new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C that I am attempting to renovate. My
>> intent for the time being is to remove the remaining barnacle plates,
>> lightly sand the existing ablative, and replace it with more of the same.
>> That said, I think it would be wise to do something about these holes, and
>> that a few tubes of spot putty might do the trick. The main question I have
>> is should I use some sort of primer first, and what product is likely to
>> work?
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C
>> Merritt Island, FL
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Steve,

My hull came with hundreds of those little holes. At or near the waterline. A 
PO had the original bottom stripped off and replaced with glass and epoxy up to 
the waterline so any in that area were fixed. I just lived with those buggers 
until last year when the hull was repainted.

Like Dennis said, they were just ground out a bit, cleaned and filled, in my 
case with Awlfair, sanded smooth and painted over.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 29, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Are these small pea sized nearly round shallow holes near the water line?
> 
> If so, they're what I call gelcoat pox.  Touche' had hundreds.  I've heard 
> reports of other C's with them.
> 
> I ground mine out with an air powered right angle die grinder with a cone 
> shaped grinding stone.  Took a couple hours but the die grinder is the right 
> tool.  Dremel just didn't work.
> 
> After grinding, apply acetone wash, fill with 3M Premium Filler, sand smooth 
> and paint.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 10:10 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and 
> aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were ripped out 
> right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the 
> new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C that I am attempting to renovate. My 
> intent for the time being is to remove the remaining barnacle plates, lightly 
> sand the existing ablative, and replace it with more of the same. That said, 
> I think it would be wise to do something about these holes, and that a few 
> tubes of spot putty might do the trick. The main question I have is should I 
> use some sort of primer first, and what product is likely to work?
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

I am looking for knock down strategies so that guests are not laid over to 90 
degrees. Bulkhead attachment bolts and containers ...


> racing I expect the batteries to stay put when the boat is laid over to 90 
> degrees.


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Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Something like this:
https://www.teledynedalsa.com/imaging/markets/mv/ndt/

I have no idea what they charge, for all I know a new rudder is cheaper.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 14:14
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

An industrial X-Ray machine might do it.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sthoma20--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 13:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

I don't believe that there is short of ripping it apart, and even then, cracks 
can be notoriously difficult to detect. Dyes and other techniques can sometimes 
detect faults, but I have not been able to find any reference to a test which 
is good enough to say for certain that no fault exists. A customer service rep 
at the Edson factory told me I should replace the chain and associated parts on 
their steering systems every 10 years because there is no way to tell if a 
crack problem exists. At least with a rudder, a single cracked weld is not 
likely to result in failure. 

This link is to an article on chloride stress corrosion cracking which delves 
into the subject in some detail. It will download a pdf file. 

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/rrpdf/rr902.pdf

It is aimed primarily at chemical process vessels and piping, but the chemistry 
and physics are the same. We are dealing with chloride ions. It includes a 
chart on the differences between common stainless steels, including 304 and 
316. Crack detection techniques and the problems associated are discussed. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


 Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List  wrote: 
Does anyone know of a test to check the integrity of the stainless steel tangs 
attached to the rudder post, inside the rudder?

Jim McDonald
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John NB

Sent from my iPad
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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

An industrial X-Ray machine might do it.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sthoma20--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 13:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

I don't believe that there is short of ripping it apart, and even then, cracks 
can be notoriously difficult to detect. Dyes and other techniques can sometimes 
detect faults, but I have not been able to find any reference to a test which 
is good enough to say for certain that no fault exists. A customer service rep 
at the Edson factory told me I should replace the chain and associated parts on 
their steering systems every 10 years because there is no way to tell if a 
crack problem exists. At least with a rudder, a single cracked weld is not 
likely to result in failure. 

This link is to an article on chloride stress corrosion cracking which delves 
into the subject in some detail. It will download a pdf file. 

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/rrpdf/rr902.pdf

It is aimed primarily at chemical process vessels and piping, but the chemistry 
and physics are the same. We are dealing with chloride ions. It includes a 
chart on the differences between common stainless steels, including 304 and 
316. Crack detection techniques and the problems associated are discussed. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


 Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List  wrote: 
Does anyone know of a test to check the integrity of the stainless steel tangs 
attached to the rudder post, inside the rudder?

Jim McDonald
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John NB

Sent from my iPad
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

Will you be cruising in sheltered waters or offshore?

How robust the battery tie down and containment system is should reflect the 
risk of the boat being knocked down.

On Calypso, we have gel cell batteries well secured to bulkhead strength 
attachments.  As we occasionally sail in PNW coastal conditions and from time 
to time make questionable sail choices while racing I expect the batteries to 
stay put when the boat is laid over to 90 degrees.  So far we have only tested 
it to approx. 75 degrees.

If your plans do not include adventurous sail and weather choices you have many 
more options for battery containment.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 7:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the 
quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has screwed 
into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and how long a 
screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally molded for 2 
group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Steve,

Are these small pea sized nearly round shallow holes near the water line?

If so, they're what I call gelcoat pox.  Touche' had hundreds.  I've heard
reports of other C's with them.

I ground mine out with an air powered right angle die grinder with a cone
shaped grinding stone.  Took a couple hours but the die grinder is the
right tool.  Dremel just didn't work.

After grinding, apply acetone wash, fill with 3M Premium Filler, sand
smooth and paint.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 10:10 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and
> aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were ripped
> out right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the
> new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C that I am attempting to renovate. My
> intent for the time being is to remove the remaining barnacle plates,
> lightly sand the existing ablative, and replace it with more of the same.
> That said, I think it would be wise to do something about these holes, and
> that a few tubes of spot putty might do the trick. The main question I have
> is should I use some sort of primer first, and what product is likely to
> work?
>
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

I don't believe that there is short of ripping it apart, and even then, cracks 
can be notoriously difficult to detect. Dyes and other techniques can sometimes 
detect faults, but I have not been able to find any reference to a test which 
is good enough to say for certain that no fault exists. A customer service rep 
at the Edson factory told me I should replace the chain and associated parts on 
their steering systems every 10 years because there is no way to tell if a 
crack problem exists. At least with a rudder, a single cracked weld is not 
likely to result in failure. 

This link is to an article on chloride stress corrosion cracking which delves 
into the subject in some detail. It will download a pdf file. 

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/rrpdf/rr902.pdf

It is aimed primarily at chemical process vessels and piping, but the chemistry 
and physics are the same. We are dealing with chloride ions. It includes a 
chart on the differences between common stainless steels, including 304 and 
316. Crack detection techniques and the problems associated are discussed. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


 Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List  wrote: 
Does anyone know of a test to check the integrity of the stainless steel tangs 
attached to the rudder post, inside the rudder?

Jim McDonald
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John NB

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

[Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List]

Does anyone know of a test to check the integrity of the stainless steel tangs 
attached to the rudder post, inside the rudder?

Jim McDonald
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John NB

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Sticking things together is only thing I use 5200 for.  It's an adhesive,
not a sealant.

I have GLUED teak blocks to the inside of hulls and on fiberglass bulkheads
for attaching thing very successfully.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 10:31 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That may be the first time anyone on this list has recommended 3M 5200 for
> anything other than keel attachment! :)
>
> Steve Thomas
>
>  "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote:
> Adhere some teak to the hull with 3M 5200.  Screw the straps into the teak.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 9:03 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the
> > quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
> > screwed into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into
> and
> > how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
> > molded for 2 group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >   Jeremy
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

That may be the first time anyone on this list has recommended 3M 5200 for 
anything other than keel attachment! :)

Steve Thomas

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 
Adhere some teak to the hull with 3M 5200.  Screw the straps into the teak.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 9:03 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the
> quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
> screwed into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and
> how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
> molded for 2 group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[David via CnC-List]

With batteries I would use bolts if you can.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2016 07:03:11 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: jeremy.ra...@gmail.com

Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the 
quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has screwed 
into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and how long a 
screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally molded for 2 
group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.  
Thanks,  Jeremy

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Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Adhere some teak to the hull with 3M 5200.  Screw the straps into the teak.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 9:03 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the
> quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
> screwed into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and
> how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
> molded for 2 group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and 
aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were ripped out 
right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the 
new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C that I am attempting to renovate. My 
intent for the time being is to remove the remaining barnacle plates, lightly 
sand the existing ablative, and replace it with more of the same. That said, I 
think it would be wise to do something about these holes, and that a few tubes 
of spot putty might do the trick. The main question I have is should I use some 
sort of primer first, and what product is likely to work? 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I routinely use two anchors off the bow.
The only time I have done bow and stern is when putting the bow on the beach. 
I’ll have a stern anchor and the bow anchor is on dry land. There are a few 
places in the Bay where the bottom slop is very steep and this works.
Also for the dinghy, I use a stern anchor on a long bungee cord and a bow line 
to something on the beach. I love the looks I get when I step out onto dry land 
the dinghy magically float back out again. It beats arriving at high tide and 
going to leave at low tide and having to drag the dinghy back into the water.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 20:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

Martin, I did something similar in one of the little bays in the corners in 
Jervis Inlet on the way up to Princess Louisa. More than 100' on the bow, lots 
less under the stern and tied to a tree.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:13, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.

We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of water 
and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  It was 
essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, backing in 
towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, then rowing the 
stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ snowcapped 
mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above us, and no 
other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The weather was 
very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I would drink a 
big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check the anchor”.  
For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north end of the 
Desolation Sound area.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:31 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

How many of us have ever double hooked, bow/stern?
I've only done it a couple times.  Was a bit behind schedule coming into The 
Rigolets, the outlet of Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne.  Decided to anchor 
just off The Rigolets in the West Pearl River.  The West Pearl is a bit narrow, 
has some crazy fishermen roaring by at 50 knots.

I wanted to anchor close by and parallel to the shore to stay well away from 
and not swing into the channel.  Set the bow anchor up current, drifted down 
current, set the smaller lunch hook and then pulled the boat back towards the 
bow anchor.  Done.  Popped a beer.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We had one on the J-80 I raced on. A bit of a hassle to raise, but leaves
the sail as built, no thick edges altering its shape. And no extra weight.
It survived five years of 8 month deploying - taking it off once or twice a
week. It finally shredded in a gale, but protected the sail even then.
Bought another one.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 6:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

 

Just to make it a little more interesting.. 

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:

http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain /
pollen / whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler.
ATN's sleeve is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go.  

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are better
protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,  GA




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for
about five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions?

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List
 > wrote:
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With that said,
I went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit
of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for
the headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years or
less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not left
for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more
expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases
performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in the long run
if you are a cruiser). 
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, N

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Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the
quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
screwed into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and
how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
molded for 2 group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Seaward Princess oven

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I also got mine to light by turning the set screw inside the shaft of the oven 
control. However, BE CAREFUL, the tech at Sure marine Service told me you can 
rupture the internal diaphragm if you turn the set screw too far.  As far as I 
know, there are no parts available for these old Seaward ovens except for Sure 
Marine which rebuilds them.  They are excellent to deal with.  They also have 
an excellent troubleshooting tutorial on their web site.
http://www.suremarineservice.com/manuals/Stove-Repair.pdf


Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Mine collapsed last year too. I replaced it with 3/4” ply epoxied both sides, 
and custom fit it to accommodate one more 27 series battery.

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC  ___

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Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I have the film option on my old 135 cruiser Genoa.  It's a Dupont product 
called Tedlar. 

I don't know how old it is, could be 20+ years old, it's falling apart all 
over the place.  I looked into replacing it last year and Dupont was not 
producing it so it was pretty much "unobtatnium".   I just did a search 
and it looks like it's available now.. That's another option. 

As for the the "Flagging" genoa sock, that's why I'm going with the ATN 
sock. The spiral drawstring around it and the overall design is 
specifically meant to keep it steady.  Also, my boat is so thoroughly 
protected in the cove where I dock, it's blowing 25+ knots in the bay and 
you can hardly feel a breeze at my dock so wind is not really much of an 
issue for us. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 

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Re: Stus-List Hull paint primer - long

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

"I’m hoping that Dennis will chime in …”

Well, that was quick!

I should have mentioned that the work done to my boat was done to the original 
gelcoat. But three coats seems to just be good practice, no matter what.

And I had to laugh at the Hutchins pneumatic sander. I spent many hours in my 
youth with one of those. I think it is still somewhere collecting dust in my 
shed.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 29, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Russ,
> 
> Long answer to your question but it shows what can happen with painting an 
> old boat.  It also illustrates that preparation is 80% of most jobs.  Kinda 
> of a primer on primers.  :)
> 
> I'm not sure if the contractor long boarded between or after primer coats.  I 
> wasn't there when the contractor did that portion. However, there was more to 
> it than just removing 40 years of scratches and dings.
> 
> First, some history.  A close examination of the existing paint showed 
> numerous "fish eyes".  Tiny pinprick size holes in the paint where it 
> apparently didn't completely lay down.  I had heard "dock tales" about how a 
> PO had hired the local boat yard's painter to paint the boat in the water 
> over a weekend.  Rumor was they tied it side to at a bulkhead, set an anchor 
> a ways out and careened it slightly with a masthead halyard.  The guy painted 
> it from a dinghy.  The next day they swapped it and painted the other side.  
> The rumor was they used Imron paint.
> 
> This dubious story led the painting contractor and I to question everything 
> about the paint job.  On his advice, I scrubbed a 3 x 3 foot section of the 
> hull, repaired some dings and sanded it with 320 grit.  He was painting a 
> nearby boat with white AwlCraft.  At the end of that job, he came over with 
> the paint gun and sprayed the test area.
> 
> What???  The paint beaded up in spots.  Where I had done the repair exposing 
> underlying coats of paint, it reacted with those other paints.  Some layers 
> peeled up slightly and other layers reacted turning the white AwlCraft pink.  
> Upon seeing this, we decided we needed to sand the entire topsides to remove 
> all the layers of unknown paints.  
> 
> When working with $250/gallon paint and the risk of a botched job, we decided 
> removing the old paints was the safest course of action.
> 
> I did most of the smoothing myself with a Hutchins straight line sander like 
> this:
> 
> http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=424043 
> 
> 
> If you use a disc sander, you risk creating gouges or divots in the hull.  
> Especially if using a smaller sander like a 4 or 5 inch diameter.  When 
> applying a high gloss paint, it is critical that you have a very smooth 
> surface.  
> 
> The straight line sander is held horizontally and moved up and down the hull 
> at a slight angle to vertical.  That is, in a "V" pattern.
> 
> If you got up close and personal with Touche's topsides prior to the 
> painting, you would have noticed a lot of imperfections.  Much was due to 
> post cure shrinkage.  I could see the pattern of the underlying roving as 
> well as the vertical  "dimple" at the upper shroud brace.  The sander removed 
> nearly all the imperfections.
> 
> As I sanded, I definitely saw several layers of old paint.  I even found the 
> original name "Touche" in the gap in the cove stripe under the shrouds.  It 
> was under at least 2 layers.
> 
> Even though I removed as much of the old paint as I could, there were still 
> small spots in recessions in the hull.  When the contractor shot the primer, 
> he saw small spots where the primer reacted with the old paint.  Additional 
> coats where required to "bury" the old paints.
> 
> So, to answer the question of why 3 coats of primer, it was both for 
> smoothing physical imperfections as well as for "burying" spots of the old 
> paint.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> 
> Hi Dennis,
> 
> Was the 3 coats of high build primer for long boarding to a fair hull? 
> 
> When I did the decks I was set to do high build primer and the paint rep 
> suggested going the regularly spec'd (2 pot) primer.
> 
> I have a hull paint project coming up next year and the hull needs fairing, 
> so I'm looking for best practices. 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 09:00 AM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
>> My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.  
>> Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier 
>> to repair and blend.
>> 
>> Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The 
>> Awlcraft looks great!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
> 
> 

Re: Stus-List Hull paint primer

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Russ,

Although I have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express I am not now nor have I ever 
been a professional painter. With that in mind, here are the basic steps and 
materials that I observed being used by my painter for our hull painting.

- Sand entire hull and fix/repair major fiberglass damage. I did some gross 
glasswork prior to turning it over to the yard.
- Fill and sand minor cracks and scratches with Awlfair Surfacing Filler. Love 
that stuff.
- Spray Awlquick Sanding Surfacer - D8003. Uses D9001 Converter.
Note: this might be referred to as “high build” primer but is not High 
Build Epoxy Primer D3002.
- Board sand. Board sand some more. Continue board sanding. Don’t wait too long 
after shooting to start sanding otherwise it will hard.
- Spray Awlquick Sanding Surfacer.
- Board sand. Board sand some more. Continue board sanding. When you’re done, 
do more board sanding...
- Spray 545 Epoxy Primer D8001 with D3001 Converter. Final primer coat.
- Remember the sanding stuff? Final sanding to 400-grit.
- Wash hull, Two-rag solvent clean prior to topcoat shoot.
- Spray topcoat. In my case, Awlcraft 2000.
- Have a beer. Maybe two.

I will be shooting my decks sometime in late May. I hope. Maybe. Anyway, when 
discussing that with my painter and the boatyard owner, who builds boats, the 
recommendation was not to bother with the Awlquick Sanding Surfacer. Just use 
the 545 Epoxy Primer. They said that there was no point in sanding the decks 
finer that 80-grit because the 545 will fill the scratches. Sand, prime, sand. 
And “fine” sanding of almost 90% of the surface will not be necessary because 
it will be covered with non-skid.

Anyway, I’m hoping that Dennis will chime in with a professional take. Also, 
don’t forget to mark/document your boot-stripes. Getting that right is no small 
task. 

If you don’t already have one, I would highly recommend AwlGrip’s Application 
Guide. Lot’s of really detailed information in it.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 29, 2016, at 12:08 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Dennis,
> 
> Was the 3 coats of high build primer for long boarding to a fair hull? 
> 
> When I did the decks I was set to do high build primer and the paint rep 
> suggested going the regularly spec'd (2 pot) primer.
> 
> I have a hull paint project coming up next year and the hull needs fairing, 
> so I'm looking for best practices. 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 09:00 AM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
>> My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.  
>> Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier 
>> to repair and blend.
>> 
>> Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The 
>> Awlcraft looks great!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Hull paint primer - long

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Russ,

Long answer to your question but it shows what can happen with painting an
old boat.  It also illustrates that preparation is 80% of most jobs.  Kinda
of a primer on primers.  :)

I'm not sure if the contractor long boarded between or after primer coats.
I wasn't there when the contractor did that portion. However, there was
more to it than just removing 40 years of scratches and dings.

First, some history.  A close examination of the existing paint showed
numerous "fish eyes".  Tiny pinprick size holes in the paint where it
apparently didn't completely lay down.  I had heard "dock tales" about how
a PO had hired the local boat yard's painter to paint the boat in the water
over a weekend.  Rumor was they tied it side to at a bulkhead, set an
anchor a ways out and careened it slightly with a masthead halyard.  The
guy painted it from a dinghy.  The next day they swapped it and painted the
other side.  The rumor was they used Imron paint.

This dubious story led the painting contractor and I to question everything
about the paint job.  On his advice, I scrubbed a 3 x 3 foot section of the
hull, repaired some dings and sanded it with 320 grit.  He was painting a
nearby boat with white AwlCraft.  At the end of that job, he came over with
the paint gun and sprayed the test area.

What???  The paint beaded up in spots.  Where I had done the repair
exposing underlying coats of paint, it reacted with those other paints.
Some layers peeled up slightly and other layers reacted turning the white
AwlCraft pink.  Upon seeing this, we decided we needed to sand the entire
topsides to remove all the layers of unknown paints.

When working with $250/gallon paint and the risk of a botched job, we
decided removing the old paints was the safest course of action.

I did most of the smoothing myself with a Hutchins straight line sander
like this:

http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=424043

If you use a disc sander, you risk creating gouges or divots in the hull.
Especially if using a smaller sander like a 4 or 5 inch diameter.  When
applying a high gloss paint, it is critical that you have a very smooth
surface.

The straight line sander is held horizontally and moved up and down the
hull at a slight angle to vertical.  That is, in a "V" pattern.

If you got up close and personal with Touche's topsides prior to the
painting, you would have noticed a lot of imperfections.  Much was due to
post cure shrinkage.  I could see the pattern of the underlying roving as
well as the vertical  "dimple" at the upper shroud brace.  The sander
removed nearly all the imperfections.

As I sanded, I definitely saw several layers of old paint.  I even found
the original name "Touche" in the gap in the cove stripe under the
shrouds.  It was under at least 2 layers.

Even though I removed as much of the old paint as I could, there were still
small spots in recessions in the hull.  When the contractor shot the
primer, he saw small spots where the primer reacted with the old paint.
Additional coats where required to "bury" the old paints.

So, to answer the question of why 3 coats of primer, it was both for
smoothing physical imperfections as well as for "burying" spots of the old
paint.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Was the 3 coats of high build primer for long boarding to a fair hull?
>
> When I did the decks I was set to do high build primer and the paint rep
> suggested going the regularly spec'd (2 pot) primer.
>
> I have a hull paint project coming up next year and the hull needs
> fairing, so I'm looking for best practices.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 09:00 AM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
>
> My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.Â
> Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier
> to repair and blend.
>
> Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The
> Awlcraft looks great!
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
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