Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Jeff Allston via CnC-List]

Not sure if this has been answered, but I just measured mine at 21"
JeffFull Deck, Victoria

Date: Thu, 12 May 2016 14:38:38 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast boot
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

Anyone know off-hand the circumference of a C&C 32 mast?That SSI Custom 
Plastics place has them right on the site but I'm not sure what size I need and 
the boat is two hours away. It's going to rain all weekend and be crappy out so 
it's unlikely I'll be making the trip for summarizing. 
Thanks,SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto


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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Topping Lift wire size ?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

 

My owner’s manual says it’s 3/32” 1x19 Stainless Steel cable, 27’ 6” long with 
5’ of 1/8” yacht braid spliced to the lower thimble thimble.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-13-16 12:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad
Subject: Stus-List Topping Lift wire size ?

 

Hello folks,

I am buying a swageless fitting to add to the end of my topping lift on my C&C 
25

Does anybody know off hand what the size of the wire  is ? probaly 1/8 ? 

 

Thank You

Ahmet

"Tabasco" 1973 C&C 25

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4568/12223 - Release Date: 05/13/16

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Re: Stus-List Topside thru hull type

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Love the Name on the side of your boat.  Great job!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2016 5:30 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Topside thru hull type

Listers,
Consider chrome when installing or replacing top side thru hull fittings.  When 
I had Touche' painted, I replaced all the white plastic thru hull fittings with 
chrome.  See this picture for one of them.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg
Makes the boat look s much better.  If you don't believe me, wander around 
your marina and look at thru hulls.  The nicer, more expensive boats all have 
chrome fittings.  The "other" boats have plastic.
Yeah, a racer wouldn't want the extra weight.  On the other hand, a metal 
fitting is less likely to break off.

Call me a thru hull snob if you want but they just look better.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Donald,

many would argue that a one-way valve is not a good idea in a bilge pump. I 
can’t speak from my own experience, but many (wise) people talk about the 
one-way valves clogging and severely restricting the flow.

If you want to prevent the water flowing back from the big pump, you can use 
the small pump for that (i.e. you let the water to flow back, but remove it 
with a smaller pump (smaller hose, smaller amount of water there, lower in the 
bilge).

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 11:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Donald Sebastian 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs

Gene, 

I was actually going to do the same thing on my boat.Just recently 
purchased a boat and had a bilge pump but was not automatic.

I actually hooked the current smaller pump that fits into the small well and 
did install a float valve but had to attached it slightly higher that the pump 
just because it wouldn’t fit tin the small well.

I am going to add a second pump and sensor  and looking at the option below. 


The plan is to attach a smaller electronic bilge pump switch that i can epoxy 
to the side of the small well.

Then add a larger external pump that will have a hose running to that well.  
This hose will have a one way valve in that well to prevent the water from 
flowing back into the well and keep the pump from cycling on and off with flow 
back.

Then I plan to put a y connector to the current hose near the exit point of the 
boat.  I do plan to put 2 one way valve on each hose at this point to keep 
water form being pumped back into the other pump hose and assume flow to the 
outside.


The sensor and pump are here:

http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Pumps-Ultima-Bilge-Switch/dm/cart_id.141200884--session_id.712849042--view_id.49248

http://www.pbsboatstore.com/Jabsco-31705-0092.htm


Donald






On May 12, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Hi Folks, 

  I just purchased a C&C 29 Mark II, Hawk, and I'm looking for advise on 
upgrading the bilge pump situation. There is no auto pump in the boat which 
scares the hell out of me, so that's the first improvement in order. I'm 
following Don Casey's advise on putting in a small automatic bilge pump at the 
very bottom and then I plan to put in a larger one above it for when I really 
need to move water (which hopefully never happens).  So here's my question:

  Question 1: Where to put the through hole for the output? I'm thinking about 
halfway between the midship and stern and just below the deck hull joint. That 
way if the rail is buried it still won't siphon. This hole/hose will be 1/2 
inch.

  Question 2: For the larger pump, I'm wondering if it would be acceptable to 
put in a Y connector shared with the manual bilde pump to avoid putting another 
hole in the hull. I would put the connector right above the throughhole 
assuming it fits so that gravity would ensure that they don't pump back into 
the other hose. This hole/hose will be over 1". The current one goes out above 
the water line in the stern.

  Thanks,

  Gene Fodor
  "Hawk", 29 mark II

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  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I had the same idea about putting netting on with zip ties.
zip ties (even black ones) are quite UV sensitive, and fall off in about a
year.
It was pretty ugly there for awhile.

Nate



On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 5:36 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Cool.  Thanks Jim.  I was thinking of using zip ties, but the twine idea
> is good too.  What did you do for your "gates"?
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2016, at 6:23 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:
>
> looks like we both are buying the same thing.   mine was "used" but never
> used!  your item is new in package. both doing the same thing.  saving dogs
> or kids.
> bought a spool of white twine to wrap around the upper life line and
> bottom is attached to toe rails.
>  just have to figure out how to cover the 2 gates where the lifeline
> unhooks
> jim
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Boyer 
> Cc: Ryan Doyle ; cnc-list 
> Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016 6:09 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting
>
> From Seamar:
> "Our lifeline netting is white, weather resistant, high strength nylon.
> Lifeline netting comes in 2" X 2" knotted diamond mesh with double strands
> top and bottom for durability. It is easy to install and fits boat rail
> from 18" to 36" high. When new, our lifeline netting has a tensile strength
> of 340 pounds per strand! That's plenty of holding power to keep gear on
> board!"
>
> On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Robert Boyer 
> wrote:
>
>> What is is made from???
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>>
>> On May 12, 2016, at 5:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hey guys,
>>
>> Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting
>> from Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly
>> cheaper than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.
>>
>> Anyone have experience with this stuff?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ryan
>> Nobody's Bargain
>> 1976 C&C 30mki
>> New York
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Topping Lift wire size ?

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

Hello folks,
I am buying a swageless fitting to add to the end of my topping lift on my
C&C 25
Does anybody know off hand what the size of the wire  is ? probaly 1/8 ?

Thank You
Ahmet
"Tabasco" 1973 C&C 25
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Re: Stus-List Topside thru hull type

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Mine are all stainless steel which is even better than chrome!!!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 12, 2016, at 4:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Consider chrome when installing or replacing top side thru hull fittings.  
> When I had Touche' painted, I replaced all the white plastic thru hull 
> fittings with chrome.  See this picture for one of them.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg
> 
> Makes the boat look s much better.  If you don't believe me, wander 
> around your marina and look at thru hulls.  The nicer, more expensive boats 
> all have chrome fittings.  The "other" boats have plastic.
> 
> Yeah, a racer wouldn't want the extra weight.  On the other hand, a metal 
> fitting is less likely to break off.  
> 
> Call me a thru hull snob if you want but they just look better.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[jim schwartz via CnC-List]

still working on ideas for the gates
jim



-Original Message-
From: Ryan Doyle 
To: detroito91 
Cc: cnc-list ; dainyrays 
Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016 6:36 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting






Cool.  Thanks Jim.  I was thinking of using zip ties, but the twine idea is 
good too.  What did you do for your "gates"? 





Sent from my iPhone
On May 12, 2016, at 6:23 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:



looks like we both are buying the same thing.   mine was "used" but never used! 
 your item is new in package. both doing the same thing.  saving dogs or kids. 
bought a spool of white twine to wrap around the upper life line and bottom is 
attached to toe rails.
 just have to figure out how to cover the 2 gates where the lifeline unhooks
jim



-Original Message-
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
To: Robert Boyer 
Cc: Ryan Doyle ; cnc-list 
Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016 6:09 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting



>From Seamar:
"Our lifeline netting is white, weather resistant, high strength nylon. 
Lifeline netting comes in 2" X 2" knotted diamond mesh with double strands top 
and bottom for durability. It is easy to install and fits boat rail from 18" to 
36" high. When new, our lifeline netting has a tensile strength of 340 pounds 
per strand! That's plenty of holding power to keep gear on board!"


On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Robert Boyer  wrote:


What is is made from???

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


On May 12, 2016, at 5:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
wrote:



Hey guys, 


Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting from 
Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly cheaper than 
West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.  


Anyone have experience with this stuff?  


Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30mki
New York


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Gene,

I was actually going to do the same thing on my boat.Just recently 
purchased a boat and had a bilge pump but was not automatic.

I actually hooked the current smaller pump that fits into the small well and 
did install a float valve but had to attached it slightly higher that the pump 
just because it wouldn’t fit tin the small well.

I am going to add a second pump and sensor  and looking at the option below. 


The plan is to attach a smaller electronic bilge pump switch that i can epoxy 
to the side of the small well.

Then add a larger external pump that will have a hose running to that well.  
This hose will have a one way valve in that well to prevent the water from 
flowing back into the well and keep the pump from cycling on and off with flow 
back.

Then I plan to put a y connector to the current hose near the exit point of the 
boat.  I do plan to put 2 one way valve on each hose at this point to keep 
water form being pumped back into the other pump hose and assume flow to the 
outside.


The sensor and pump are here:

http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Pumps-Ultima-Bilge-Switch/dm/cart_id.141200884--session_id.712849042--view_id.49248

http://www.pbsboatstore.com/Jabsco-31705-0092.htm


Donald






On May 12, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi Folks,
> 
> I just purchased a C&C 29 Mark II, Hawk, and I'm looking for advise on 
> upgrading the bilge pump situation. There is no auto pump in the boat which 
> scares the hell out of me, so that's the first improvement in order. I'm 
> following Don Casey's advise on putting in a small automatic bilge pump at 
> the very bottom and then I plan to put in a larger one above it for when I 
> really need to move water (which hopefully never happens).  So here's my 
> question:
> 
> Question 1: Where to put the through hole for the output? I'm thinking about 
> halfway between the midship and stern and just below the deck hull joint. 
> That way if the rail is buried it still won't siphon. This hole/hose will be 
> 1/2 inch.
> 
>  Question 2: For the larger pump, I'm wondering if it would be acceptable to 
> put in a Y connector shared with the manual bilde pump to avoid putting 
> another hole in the hull. I would put the connector right above the 
> throughhole assuming it fits so that gravity would ensure that they don't 
> pump back into the other hose. This hole/hose will be over 1". The current 
> one goes out above the water line in the stern.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk", 29 mark II
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs

[Bob Caughran via CnC-List]

Hi Gene
On Beemer my electric bilge with float switch uses one inch hose that is routed 
directly aft then up and exits just aft of the starboard bulkhead in cockpit 
locker two inches below the rub rail. 

Bob Caughran
Beemer, 29MKII, 309

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2016, at 12:14 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I just purchased a C&C 29 Mark II, Hawk, and I'm looking for advise on 
> upgrading the bilge pump situation. There is no auto pump in the boat which 
> scares the hell out of me, so that's the first improvement in order. I'm 
> following Don Casey's advise on putting in a small automatic bilge pump at 
> the very bottom and then I plan to put in a larger one above it for when I 
> really need to move water (which hopefully never happens).  So here's my 
> question:
> 
> Question 1: Where to put the through hole for the output? I'm thinking about 
> halfway between the midship and stern and just below the deck hull joint. 
> That way if the rail is buried it still won't siphon. This hole/hose will be 
> 1/2 inch.
> 
>  Question 2: For the larger pump, I'm wondering if it would be acceptable to 
> put in a Y connector shared with the manual bilde pump to avoid putting 
> another hole in the hull. I would put the connector right above the 
> throughhole assuming it fits so that gravity would ensure that they don't 
> pump back into the other hose. This hole/hose will be over 1". The current 
> one goes out above the water line in the stern.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk", 29 mark II
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I had issued with the getting the net set so it wasn’t baggy, so I just made my 
own by weaving nylon line from the lifelines to the toe rail.
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic; 'Ryan Doyle'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

That stuff is exposed to the elements.  Ive had netting since 2006.  I bought 
the first one from Holland marine.  Few years in the tropics deteriorated it 
pretty good.   I am now on my second set.  This time from defender.  I would 
say if you try the cheap route you are going to be redoing it faster than you 
want.  Also in the offseason, if you don’t shrink-wrap the boat, I would take 
the netting off.  It’s a pain but it saves years of weathering.

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanleys in barrington




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2016 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Lifeline netting

Hey guys,

Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting from 
Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's 
significantly cheaper than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.

Anyone have experience with this stuff?

Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30mki
New York
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

That stuff is exposed to the elements.  Ive had netting since 2006.  I bought 
the first one from Holland marine.  Few years in the tropics deteriorated it 
pretty good.   I am now on my second set.  This time from defender.  I would 
say if you try the cheap route you are going to be redoing it faster than you 
want.  Also in the offseason, if you don’t shrink-wrap the boat, I would take 
the netting off.  It’s a pain but it saves years of weathering. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2016 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Lifeline netting

 

Hey guys, 

 

Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting from 
Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly cheaper than 
West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.  

 

Anyone have experience with this stuff?  

 

Thanks,

Ryan

Nobody's Bargain

1976 C&C 30mki

New York

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Topside thru hull type

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I used polished SS for my holding tank vents.  They look very much like 
the vents on Touche.  I guess it is something I'll have to keep an eye 
on.  However, the small vent I removed was not unusually corroded.


Danny


On 5/12/2016 8:52 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


Dennis,

Chrome does look nice.  You’ve got lots of bling going on there.

Unfortunately, chrome vents for the holding tank don’t look good for 
long. They start to corrode quickly.  If anything, these should be 
plastic (Marelon).


Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*

*Hampton VA*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Dennis C. via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, May 12, 2016 16:30
*To:* CnClist 
*Cc:* Dennis C. 
*Subject:* Stus-List Topside thru hull type

Listers,

Consider chrome when installing or replacing top side thru hull 
fittings.  When I had Touche' painted, I replaced all the white 
plastic thru hull fittings with chrome.  See this picture for one of them.



https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg

Makes the boat look s much better.  If you don't believe me, 
wander around your marina and look at thru hulls. The nicer, more 
expensive boats all have chrome fittings.  The "other" boats have plastic.


Yeah, a racer wouldn't want the extra weight.  On the other hand, a 
metal fitting is less likely to break off.


Call me a thru hull snob if you want but they just look better.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!