Re: Stus-List Propeller

[IRVIN via CnC-List]

Could need to be re-balanced.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2016, at 5:26 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Kent island narrows

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Got through at mid tide no problem in the new temp channel.  Water in st mikes 
is so clear I could see weeds and bottom. I can see all of rudder easy and it 
really needs cleaning!  Joe coquina 35 mk 1


Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Propeller

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

PCYC also had them for their junior sail program 

Get Outlook for iOS




On Sat, May 28, 2016 at 8:46 AM -0700, "Robert Mazza via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Actually, my recollection was that the Nutshell was an open dinghy not unlike 
the old Flying Junior. It was used in the Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club 
Junior Club program and I believe was designed and built by George 
Hinterhoeller prior to the creation of C Yachts.

Rob

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Kimon,
C designed a few sailing dinghies, but the Nutshell Dinghy is a non C wood 
lapstrake 10 ft pram design.
See: 
https://www.google.com/search?q=Nutshell+dinghy=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwif44b12PvMAhUDNSYKHYtjCLYQ_AUIBygB=1354=613


C designed the Harpoon 4.6, 5.2 and 6.2 built by Boston Whaler.
https://www.google.com/search?q=harpoon+dinghy=1354=613=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwiDtNDd2PvMAhVKKyYKHSp6CEAQ_AUIByg


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Kimon Tzaratzouris via CnC-List" 
>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Kimon Tzaratzouris" >
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 2:14:34 PM
Subject: Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy


Hello,
I bought a sailboat dinghy to sail in the small lakes around us. It is a 13' 
C Yachts serial # NS12771N. I was told the model is "Nutshell". I cannot find 
any information on it and was wondering if anyone has heard or knows anything 
about it. It is light (about 200 lbs. I think) and a very fast little sailboat.
Any info would be appreciated,
Thanks, Kimon

___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Way to go Bettina, and Ryan. Nice work.

Regarding where the leaks are coming from at the toe rail / deck-hull joint, I 
took Don Casey's suggestion and traced under the joint on the inside with a 
washable marker (plus around the chainplates on the inside). Worked like a 
charm. I've confirmed leakage from my port chainplate and one spot under the 
toe rail on the starboard bow.

Next offseason I'll pull the chainplate and re-bed them. For the toe rail leak 
I'm hoping I can get away with tightening a few bolts.

Cheers,
Randy
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> Nice job.
> Re finishing the topside.
> Just do it. 
> 
> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
> whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
> 
> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
> 
> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
> 
> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
> problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
> think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
> parts of the deck. 
> 
> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
> 
> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
> finally came around.
> 
> Bettina
> 
> C 25 Savannah
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> at
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Persuasion via CnC-List]

Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

>Ryan,
>Nice job.
>Re finishing the topside.
>Just do it. 
>
>We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
>whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
>the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>
>3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>
>My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
>fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
>tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
>it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
>like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>
>The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
>problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
>think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>parts of the deck. 
>
>Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at 
>the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>
>In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>finally came around.
>
>Bettina
>
>C 25 Savannah
>
>
>
>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> at
>
>___
>
>This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy

[Robert Mazza via CnC-List]

Actually, my recollection was that the Nutshell was an open dinghy not
unlike the old Flying Junior. It was used in the Niagara-on-the-Lake
Sailing Club Junior Club program and I believe was designed and built by
George Hinterhoeller prior to the creation of C Yachts.

Rob

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kimon,
> C designed a few sailing dinghies, but the Nutshell Dinghy is a non C
> wood lapstrake 10 ft pram design.
> See:
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Nutshell+dinghy=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwif44b12PvMAhUDNSYKHYtjCLYQ_AUIBygB=1354=613
>
>
> C designed the Harpoon 4.6, 5.2 and 6.2 built by Boston Whaler.
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=harpoon+dinghy=1354=613=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwiDtNDd2PvMAhVKKyYKHSp6CEAQ_AUIByg
> 
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Kimon Tzaratzouris via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Kimon Tzaratzouris" 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, May 25, 2016 2:14:34 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy
>
>
> Hello,
> I bought a sailboat dinghy to sail in the small lakes around us. It is a
> 13' C Yachts serial # NS12771N. I was told the model is "Nutshell". I
> cannot find any information on it and was wondering if anyone has heard or
> knows anything about it. It is light (about 200 lbs. I think) and a very
> fast little sailboat.
> Any info would be appreciated,
> Thanks, Kimon
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after three 
days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff somehow 
reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to dry for 
a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the boat 
the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a makeover. 
I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband finally came 
around.

Bettina

C 25 Savannah



> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> at

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List solar power setup...again.

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Thanks to David  for bringing this topic up...and to Bill Bina for the 
expertise; I have been thinking about doing this myself but Bill's 
recommendations I have just ordered the 50 watt panel and the Genasun 
controller he recommended! 

 


Richard
1985 37 CB Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Sent: Tue, May 24, 2016 10:28 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List solar power setup...again.



Geez Bill...what the heck took you so long...

Perfect.  Thanks Bill, you saved a from much Googling!

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 10:24:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List solar power setup...again.
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: billbinal...@gmail.com

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/161669212758
The 50 watt one is 21x27  inches and quite thin.
Bill Bina






This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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