Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with 
the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and 
wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small 
load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to 
short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see 
if it turns over. 
Good luck

Doug Mountjoy 
Pegasus
LF 38 hull  #4
Ballard WA. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to 
> get done.
> 
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
> turning the key.
> 
> 
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
> radio when trying to turn over the engine.
> 
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.  
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the 
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
> 
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to clean 
> contact but no effect.
> 
> 
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
> 
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
> 
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise 
> or power dip indicating that something was seized
> 
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
> presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well.  
> Nothing obviously disconnected
> 
> 
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
> what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
> 
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
> 
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
> maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
> 
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin 
> the starter/solenoid directly?
> 
> 
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
> 
> Mark
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Asymmetric chute

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

We have been given one. It is too short but it worked well as we have normally 
three children on board. It is short on the luff so do we fly it high to the 
top of the mast or lower to the deck? What is the process of getting it down? 
Tack release, let sheets go, and then let down the halyard? What is the normal 
way of doing it?___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need 
to get done.


Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
turning the key.



Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to 
the radio when trying to turn over the engine.


I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken 
loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the 
starter solenoid (?).


That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to 
clean contact but no effect.



I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized


3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected 
as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected



I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!



Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get 
a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then 
it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?


I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition 
key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed


Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to 
spin the starter/solenoid directly?



The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.

It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

> On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
> open all the way?
> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
> the problem you describe.
> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON  
> - Original Message -
> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robin Drew
> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
> 
> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List source for replacement shower sump pump on 33-2

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

What brand and model do you have?  The Jabsco pumps have quick disconnects
on the plumbing

Joel

On Sunday, June 5, 2016, Doug Welch via CnC-List 
wrote:

> the pump on my newish to me 33-2 is pooched beyond repair. I am looking
> for a replacement that will ideally require no or minimal modifications to
> the boat.
>
>
> cheers,
> Doug
>
> 85 33-2
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List source for replacement shower sump pump on 33-2

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

the pump on my newish to me 33-2 is pooched beyond repair. I am looking for a 
replacement that will ideally require no or minimal modifications to the boat.

cheers,Doug
85 33-2 ___

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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

very nice and your hard work saved you a lot of cash; now you can buy new sails
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C&C 30 with Interlux Brightside
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this
> process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but
> hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some grief.
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
> to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
> the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
> orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then
> I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then
> wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
>
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty
> of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No
> biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
> "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
> and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
> grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish,
> and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
> complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip"
> has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I
> think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
>
> This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
>
> The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of
> t

Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[schiller via CnC-List]

I just changed over to a Garhauer traveler on my Redwing 35 last year.  
Sent Guido my traveler and he sent back a traveler that matched my hole 
pattern exactly.  Really like it. High quality hardware.  We bought it 
at Strictly Sail in January and had it back and ready to install in April.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Whitehall, Mi

On 6/5/2016 5:52 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


I need to look at my friend’s 29-2 to see what you are referring to, 
but there should be no real problem.


Call Guido at Garhauer when you order. Tell him what your clearance 
issues are, and he will make modifications to the standard traveler so 
it meets your specific needs.


That’s what he did for the traveler on my 38, which has all the issues 
that have been mentioned for the 29-2. My traveler came with a tall 
track, drilled to fit the bolt pattern of the OEM traveler, with 
extended length for the track, and the brackets for the turning blocks 
and cam cleats customized so I can trim from behind the wheel.


Best part is that Garhauer did not charge for all the modifications. 
So the complete Garhauer traveler system was less than half the cost 
of a Harken Windward Sheeting Car alone.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Martin Kane via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, June 05, 2016 9:25 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Martin Kane 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

When selecting a new traveler make sure that you’ll be open the 
cockpit locker after its installed. Garhauer travelers won’t work 
without modifying to reposition the stbd camcleat.


Martin

C&C29-2  Recalculating

*From:*O'Keeffe Thomas [mailto:thosokee...@yahoo.com]
*Sent:* Friday, June 03, 2016 7:31 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Subject:* Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

Garhauer is another option. Another lister figured out a way to have 
Garhauer modify their MT-1 system to fit the 29-2.  The issues were 
the narrowness of the channel in the bridge deck in which the 
traveller sits and the need to raise their standard track by 1/4".  I 
went for a variation of his idea (I wanted the cam cleats on the car, 
the other lister on the coaming).  If you're interested I can forward 
off-list an email thread.


Tom O'Keeffe

Bridie Mae

C&C 29-2, 1984

Douglaston, NY



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I need to look at my friend’s 29-2 to see what you are referring to, but there 
should be no real problem.

 

Call Guido at Garhauer when you order. Tell him what your clearance issues are, 
and he will make modifications to the standard traveler so it meets your 
specific needs.

 

That’s what he did for the traveler on my 38, which has all the issues that 
have been mentioned for the 29-2. My traveler came with a tall track, drilled 
to fit the bolt pattern of the OEM traveler, with extended length for the 
track, and the brackets for the turning blocks and cam cleats customized so I 
can trim from behind the wheel.

 

Best part is that Garhauer did not charge for all the modifications. So the 
complete Garhauer traveler system was less than half the cost of a Harken 
Windward Sheeting Car alone.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin Kane 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin Kane 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

 

When selecting a new traveler make sure that you’ll be open the cockpit locker 
after its installed.  Garhauer travelers won’t work without modifying to 
reposition the stbd camcleat.

Martin 

C&C29-2  Recalculating

 

 

From: O'Keeffe Thomas [mailto:thosokee...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 7:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

 

Garhauer is another option. Another lister figured out a way to have Garhauer 
modify their MT-1 system to fit the 29-2.  The issues were the narrowness of 
the channel in the bridge deck in which the traveller sits and the need to 
raise their standard track by 1/4".  I went for a variation of his idea (I 
wanted the cam cleats on the car, the other lister on the coaming).  If you're 
interested I can forward off-list an email thread.

 

Tom O'Keeffe

Bridie Mae

C&C 29-2, 1984

Douglaston, NY

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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[schiller via CnC-List]

I don't mean to be a units Nazi, but I really don't believe you were 
working in kpsi.  I can get behind your numbers at 500 psi, 1 kpsi and 
1.5 kpsi.  Though I do understand what you were conveying, just the 
engineer in me.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Whitehall, Mi
BSME, MTU 1977

On 6/5/2016 4:01 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List wrote:


I recently did the procedure Alan describes on my 35-3, using the main 
halyard and a six-pack for weight. With the boom slightly off to 
starboard, I used tape as markers on the boom for each of my 
‘soundings’. I started with no tension on the hydraulic backstay, and 
progressed to 500 kpsi, 1000, and 1500 kpsi. Each of those increments 
moved the masthead aft 2 to 3 inches. From the no-tension position to 
1500 kpsi, my beer-bob weight moved aft a total of 10 inches. I didn’t 
notice a difference in the beer-bob with the babystay tensioned or not 
(which makes sense because the babystay won’t affect the masthead), 
but it was easy to see the bend in the mast. If you stand at the mast 
with any amount of tension on the backstay, and you flex the babystay 
by hand, you’ll see how the mast flexes. Not hard to see how this is 
an important control in sail trim.


Jason Ainslie, Spirit

C&C 35 Mk III

Port of Bayfield Ontario



*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List

*Sent:* June-04-16 2:35 PM
*To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* ALAN BERGEN
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

The babystay doesn't go slack.  The whole mast moves back, but more at 
the top than at the middle.  If you want to see the effect of 
tightening the backstay, look at the forestay, and sight up the mast 
from the side while the backstay is not tensioned too tight.  Then run 
a weighted line (or even your main halyard if the main is down) from 
the top of the mast to the boom.  When you tension the backstay, the 
top of the mast moves back; the middle of the mast moves back (less 
than at the top); the weighted line will move aft along the boom; the 
forestay will be straighter and you'll see the bend of the mast when 
sighting from the side from the boom to the top of the mast.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not 
completely.  As you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, 
bending and rotating from the deck pivot point.  As it rotates 
(pivots) backward it tightens the forestay.  That's about all I get 
with my tree trunk of a mast; no bending, but more than an inch back 
and down.  The thinner sections with multiple spreaders 
and/or babystays will get more bending.  Both motions move the tip of 
the mast back and down since the forestay is mostly fixed (it does 
lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and more tension 
takes some droop out).  Since systems seek an equilibrium which 
reduces overall tension, the babystay will loosen slightly with the 
bending, but will assist the bending motion until equilibrium.


Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course by geometry alone.  And 
tuning them starts with lighting a candle by the hollow stump at 
midnight!  Those with multiple spreaders are the devils own design.


Ron

Wild Cheri

C&C 30-1

STL



*From:*Sam Salter via CnC-List >

*To:* CNC-LIST mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>>
*Sent:* Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - 
explain what I'm missing:


Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay. 
Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the 
forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.


Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast‎ or at least fixes it in 
space, fore and aft.


When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the 
middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?


Tensioning the forestay‎ and taking draft out of the main.

Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???

sam :-)

C&C 26 Liquorice

GhostLake Alberta


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


__

Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

With 10 inches,  wouldn't that be very effective for moving the draft of
the main forward as well as tightening the luff of the jib?
On Jun 5, 2016 2:02 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I recently did the procedure Alan describes on my 35-3, using the main
> halyard and a six-pack for weight. With the boom slightly off to starboard,
> I used tape as markers on the boom for each of my ‘soundings’. I started
> with no tension on the hydraulic backstay, and progressed to 500 kpsi,
> 1000, and 1500 kpsi. Each of those increments moved the masthead aft 2 to 3
> inches. From the no-tension position to 1500 kpsi, my beer-bob weight moved
> aft a total of 10 inches. I didn’t notice a difference in the beer-bob with
> the babystay tensioned or not (which makes sense because the babystay won’t
> affect the masthead), but it was easy to see the bend in the mast. If you
> stand at the mast with any amount of tension on the backstay, and you flex
> the babystay by hand, you’ll see how the mast flexes. Not hard to see how
> this is an important control in sail trim.
>
>
>
> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>
> C&C 35 Mk III
>
> Port of Bayfield Ontario
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-04-16 2:35 PM
> *To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
>
>
>
> The babystay doesn't go slack.  The whole mast moves back, but more at the
> top than at the middle.  If you want to see the effect of tightening the
> backstay, look at the forestay, and sight up the mast from the side while
> the backstay is not tensioned too tight.  Then run a weighted line (or even
> your main halyard if the main is down) from the top of the mast to the
> boom.  When you tension the backstay, the top of the mast moves back; the
> middle of the mast moves back (less than at the top); the weighted line
> will move aft along the boom; the forestay will be straighter and you'll
> see the bend of the mast when sighting from the side from the boom to the
> top of the mast.
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely.
> As you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and
> rotating from the deck pivot point.  As it rotates (pivots) backward it
> tightens the forestay.  That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a
> mast; no bending, but more than an inch back and down.  The thinner
> sections with multiple spreaders and/or babystays will get more bending.
> Both motions move the tip of the mast back and down since the forestay is
> mostly fixed (it does lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and
> more tension takes some droop out).  Since systems seek an equilibrium
> which reduces overall tension, the babystay will loosen slightly with the
> bending, but will assist the bending motion until equilibrium.
>
> Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course by geometry alone.  And tuning
> them starts with lighting a candle by the hollow stump at midnight!  Those
> with multiple spreaders are the devils own design.
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C&C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Sam Salter via CnC-List 
> *To:* CNC-LIST 
> *Cc:* Sam Salter 
> *Sent:* Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
>
>
>
> Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain
> what I'm missing:
>
>
>
> Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay.
> Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the
> forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.
>
> Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast‎ or at least fixes it in
> space, fore and aft.
>
> When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the
> middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?
>
> Tensioning the forestay‎ and taking draft out of the main.
>
> Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???
>
>
>
> sam :-)
>
> C&C 26 Liquorice
>
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Ainslie via CnC-List]

I recently did the procedure Alan describes on my 35-3, using the main
halyard and a six-pack for weight. With the boom slightly off to starboard,
I used tape as markers on the boom for each of my ‘soundings’. I started
with no tension on the hydraulic backstay, and progressed to 500 kpsi, 1000,
and 1500 kpsi. Each of those increments moved the masthead aft 2 to 3
inches. From the no-tension position to 1500 kpsi, my beer-bob weight moved
aft a total of 10 inches. I didn’t notice a difference in the beer-bob with
the babystay tensioned or not (which makes sense because the babystay won’t
affect the masthead), but it was easy to see the bend in the mast. If you
stand at the mast with any amount of tension on the backstay, and you flex
the babystay by hand, you’ll see how the mast flexes. Not hard to see how
this is an important control in sail trim.

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

C&C 35 Mk III

Port of Bayfield Ontario

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN
BERGEN via CnC-List
Sent: June-04-16 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

 

The babystay doesn't go slack.  The whole mast moves back, but more at the
top than at the middle.  If you want to see the effect of tightening the
backstay, look at the forestay, and sight up the mast from the side while
the backstay is not tensioned too tight.  Then run a weighted line (or even
your main halyard if the main is down) from the top of the mast to the boom.
When you tension the backstay, the top of the mast moves back; the middle of
the mast moves back (less than at the top); the weighted line will move aft
along the boom; the forestay will be straighter and you'll see the bend of
the mast when sighting from the side from the boom to the top of the mast.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
 wrote:

Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely.  As
you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and rotating
from the deck pivot point.  As it rotates (pivots) backward it tightens the
forestay.  That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a mast; no bending,
but more than an inch back and down.  The thinner sections with multiple
spreaders and/or babystays will get more bending.  Both motions move the tip
of the mast back and down since the forestay is mostly fixed (it does
lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and more tension takes some
droop out).  Since systems seek an equilibrium which reduces overall
tension, the babystay will loosen slightly with the bending, but will assist
the bending motion until equilibrium.

Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course by geometry alone.  And tuning
them starts with lighting a candle by the hollow stump at midnight!  Those
with multiple spreaders are the devils own design.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C&C 30-1

STL

 

 

 

  _  

From: Sam Salter via CnC-List 
To: CNC-LIST  
Cc: Sam Salter 
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

 

Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain
what I'm missing:

 

Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay. Sure,
it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the forestay, but
mostly it's going to stay put.

Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast‎ or at least fixes it in space,
fore and aft.

When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the
middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?

Tensioning the forestay‎ and taking draft out of the main.

Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???

 

sam :-)

C&C 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 

 


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are greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List Is this lantern real?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Sure.
I thought  it was real silly. I bet Wally can see it.

Cheers & smiles, Russ


At 08:42 AM 05/06/2016, you wrote:

It doesn't look real to me.
Of course, I can't see a picture, so that may be a contributing factor.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Cool.  Thanks James.  That's good news considering I already have 4 ga wires.

Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
   reply-type=original

Ryan,
The experts at Moyer recommend 4 ga for runs of up to 20 ft. so I would be 
very comfortable with that.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC



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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon Windspeed

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Good job!

On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 7:44 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just circling back on the fix for my WS150 instrument which is at least 20
> years old.  You may recall I was getting erratic readings.  Removed the
> sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
> Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine.  Took sending unit
> home, disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed
> and angle.  Everything looked OK.  Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry
> and reassembled.   Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated.
> Yesterday crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine.
> Reinstalled sending to mast head -  works fine!!  Best guess is the sending
> unit design is a sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer.  After many
> years salt air and condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that
> became an issue with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small
> wire gauge and sensitivity of the unit.  Apparently the cleaner resolved.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps someone else in the future.
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy
> III
>
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Is this lantern real?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

No, close your eyes.  Say "abracadabra" three times and then open them.
Worked for me.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 10:42 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It doesn't look real to me. Of course, I can't see a picture, so that may
> be a contributing factor.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 3 June 2016 at 19:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> This is on my C&C 30. Is it real and usable? If it is real, what are the
>> effects of using it? Will it get nasty,  make soot on the roof?
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Is this lantern real?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

It doesn't look real to me. Of course, I can't see a picture, so that may
be a contributing factor.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 3 June 2016 at 19:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
wrote:

> This is on my C&C 30. Is it real and usable? If it is real, what are the
> effects of using it? Will it get nasty,  make soot on the roof?
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses

[jtsails via CnC-List]

rs old.  You may recall I was getting erratic readings.  Removed the
sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine.  Took sending unit 
home,

disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed and
angle.  Everything looked OK.  Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry and
reassembled.   Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated. 
Yesterday
crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine.  Reinstalled 
sending

to mast head -  works fine!!  Best guess is the sending unit design is a
sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer.  After many years salt air 
and

condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that became an issue
with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small wire gauge and
sensitivity of the unit.  Apparently the cleaner resolved.



Hope this helps someone else in the future.



John and Maryann

Legacy III


1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT







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Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

ambel from the list and two other friends) 
> and I brought Corsair (Redwing 35) from South Haven, Michigan up the 
> lake to White Lake, Michigan.  A run of 69 nm.  We ended up motoring the 
> entire distance.  I have sailed on Lake Michigan for 24 years and have 
> been becalmed for a few hours from time to time.  Yesterday there was 0 
> knots gusting to 1 (as reported by three of the buoys we passed) for the 
> entire day.  We ran the Universal at 2350-2400 RPM making 6-6.2 knots 
> from 0840 until 1915.  I would estimate that we used 4.5 to 5 gallons of 
> diesel for the trip.  We did finally see some wind about 4.5 nm south of 
> the White Lake channel directly astern.  We elected not to hoist sails.  
> A good run and nice to be in our new home.  Now I need to think about 
> changing my port of call at my next document renewal.  Many thanks to my 
> crew and Corsair.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> Whitehall, Michigan
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> --
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 07:44:07 -0400
> From: "John and Maryann Read" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Standard Horizon Windspeed
> Message-ID: <003501d1bf1f$9230fb30$b692f190$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Just circling back on the fix for my WS150 instrument which is at least 20
> years old.  You may recall I was getting erratic readings.  Removed the
> sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
> Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine.  Took sending unit home,
> disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed and
> angle.  Everything looked OK.  Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry and
> reassembled.   Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated.  Yesterday
> crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine.  Reinstalled sending
> to mast head -  works fine!!  Best guess is the sending unit design is a
> sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer.  After many years salt air and
> condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that became an issue
> with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small wire gauge and
> sensitivity of the unit.  Apparently the cleaner resolved.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps someone else in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 
> 1982 C&C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[Martin Kane via CnC-List]

When selecting a new traveler make sure that you’ll be open the cockpit locker 
after its installed.  Garhauer travelers won’t work without modifying to 
reposition the stbd camcleat.

Martin 

C&C29-2  Recalculating

 

 

From: O'Keeffe Thomas [mailto:thosokee...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 7:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

 

Garhauer is another option. Another lister figured out a way to have Garhauer 
modify their MT-1 system to fit the 29-2.  The issues were the narrowness of 
the channel in the bridge deck in which the traveller sits and the need to 
raise their standard track by 1/4".  I went for a variation of his idea (I 
wanted the cam cleats on the car, the other lister on the coaming).  If you're 
interested I can forward off-list an email thread.

 

Tom O'Keeffe

Bridie Mae

C&C 29-2, 1984

Douglaston, NY

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Stus-List Standard Horizon Windspeed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just circling back on the fix for my WS150 instrument which is at least 20
years old.  You may recall I was getting erratic readings.  Removed the
sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine.  Took sending unit home,
disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed and
angle.  Everything looked OK.  Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry and
reassembled.   Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated.  Yesterday
crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine.  Reinstalled sending
to mast head -  works fine!!  Best guess is the sending unit design is a
sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer.  After many years salt air and
condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that became an issue
with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small wire gauge and
sensitivity of the unit.  Apparently the cleaner resolved.

 

Hope this helps someone else in the future.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III


1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 



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