Stus-List CNC RDV NW

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Sitting in the cockpit of Alera looking out at Telegraph Harbor and the marina. 
 Last night of a great week end here for the 25th annual C and C northwest 
Rendezvous.  About 20 boats and twice that attendees.  Great fun, great friends 
and great food.  All round great week end.  Big shout out to Margaret, Jim and 
the rest of the crew that makes this happen.  If you live in the Pacific 
Northwest and are not here, shame, shame, shame...now you must walk the streets 
naked!

Next year, same place, 8/11-13.  Be there!

Til then, fair winds my C brethren!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have one but it's left handed. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 6, 2016, at 10:05 PM, "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> they're quite rare, but I'm willing to sell mine; for a fair price.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> 
> From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Cc: Tim Sippel 
> Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 12:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size
> 
> You may need a metric adjustable wrench  ;)
>  
>  
> Tim
> @cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2016 7:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size
>  
> Is there a wrench size between 13 and 14 mm?
>  
> Joel 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the 
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
> 
> 
> 
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
> fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

they're quite rare, but I'm willing to sell mine; for a fair price.RonWild 
CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Tim Sippel 
 Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 12:33 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size
   
 You may need a metric 
adjustable wrench  ;)       Tim @cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2016 7:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size    Is there a wrench size between 13 and 14 
mm?    Joel  

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 



This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out atwww.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié 
àwww.rogers.com/aviscourriel 
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

DeBond

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta

> On Aug 6, 2016, at 15:51, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the 
> handrails today.  The bases of the exterior handrails were bedded to the 
> cabintop gelcoat with what appears to be some kind of silicone-like 
> substance.  Can anybody recommend a good solvent for that stuff?  I tried 
> goo-gone and it wouldn't dissolve the stuff.  Want to get that gelcoat clean 
> before bedding the bases of the new handrails.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

I've been using the MCKANICA Silicone Caulk Remover and have had very good 
results.   It dissolves the silicone quite well and it's very easy to remove.  
It works in 10-15 minutes.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Aug 6, 2016, at 3:52 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Listers-

My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the 
handrails today.  The bases of the exterior handrails were bedded to the 
cabintop gelcoat with what appears to be some kind of silicone-like substance.  
Can anybody recommend a good solvent for that stuff?  I tried goo-gone and it 
wouldn't dissolve the stuff.  Want to get that gelcoat clean before bedding the 
bases of the new handrails.

Thanks in Advance,
Randy
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I use 3M 08984 General Purpose Adhesive Remover, a 5 in one knife and a
scrubby pad.  There is no silver bullet for silicone removal.  It takes
elbow grease.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MMM0/08984/N0440.oap

Dennis C.

On Sat, Aug 6, 2016 at 2:51 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers-
>
> My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the
> handrails today.  The bases of the exterior handrails were bedded to the
> cabintop gelcoat with what appears to be some kind of silicone-like
> substance.  Can anybody recommend a good solvent for that stuff?  I tried
> goo-gone and it wouldn't dissolve the stuff.  Want to get that gelcoat
> clean before bedding the bases of the new handrails.
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

I haven't tried it but I saved this info from the list.  " McKanica Silicon 
calk remover"

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 6, 2016, at 3:51 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the 
> handrails today.  The bases of the exterior handrails were bedded to the 
> cabintop gelcoat with what appears to be some kind of silicone-like 
> substance.  Can anybody recommend a good solvent for that stuff?  I tried 
> goo-gone and it wouldn't dissolve the stuff.  Want to get that gelcoat clean 
> before bedding the bases of the new handrails.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

e guy out front and the rest..  
 
Here are the rules: 
http://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/ISAFRRS20132016Final-[13376].pdf 
 
 
-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five"  
Lake Lanier, GA 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Message: 7 
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2016 11:45:34 -0400 
From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 
To: "Charlie Nelson" <cenel...@aol.com>,     <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List New sails for my 38 
Message-ID: <000a01d1eff9$91f89e60$b5e9db20$@earthlink.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
 
It's time to replace the main and genoa on my 38 mk2 (and I actually have 
the money to do it). 
 
  
 
I'm more of a cruiser than a racer any more. I only do about 4 charity races 
a year, and have been adding cruising gear to the boat for trips to the 
Bahamas (and Bermuda next June). So I guess I'm looking for durable sails 
that still give me good performance - but not a set of racing sails.  
 
  
 
My old main is a Neil Pryde main with 5 full battens and a Tides Marine 
Strong Track system that has given good service over more than 10 years. 
I've retired the carbon 155 genoa and am using a roller furling 135 headsail 
right now. 
 
  
 
I've asked for a quote from the sailmaker I've used in the past (Omar Sails 
in New Bern, NC). Based on recent positive comments on the list I've also 
contacted Dirk Sharland at Rolly Tasker Sails in Florida. And because of my 
experience with the Neil Pryde main I've contacted their loft in Hampton, 
VA. 
 
  
 
I'm looking for a good balance of performance, durability, and cost. Pretty 
much weighted in that order. 
 
  
 
I'm open to suggestions about features I should look for, and other lofts 
from which I should request information and a quote. 
 
  
 
Rick Brass 
 
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2 
 
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1 
 
Washington, NC 
 
  
 
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Randy

The only thing I ever found to remove silicone was good old gasoline.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: RANDY via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 6, 2016 3:51 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

Listers-

My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the 
handrails today.  ___

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Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Listers- 

My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the 
handrails today. The bases of the exterior handrails were bedded to the 
cabintop gelcoat with what appears to be some kind of silicone-like substance. 
Can anybody recommend a good solvent for that stuff? I tried goo-gone and it 
wouldn't dissolve the stuff. Want to get that gelcoat clean before bedding the 
bases of the new handrails. 

Thanks in Advance, 
Randy 
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Stus-List C Rendezvous - June, 2017 - St. Georges Bermuda

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

It's not as unreasonable as it sounds!

 

I saw in last month's issue of Cruising World that Ocean Passage
Opportunities is organizing several fleets to travel in company from the
east coast to St. Georges for the Americas Cup finals in Bermuda next June.
They seem to have a pretty good handle on organization, dockage, and
activities. They are calling it Rally to the Cup.

 

Here are a couple of links to information on the OPO website:

https://www.sailopo.com/Rally_to_the_Cup_2017.aspx

 

https://www.sailopo.com/Cup_Rally_2017_Details.aspx

 

https://www.sailopo.com/Cup_Rally_2017_FAQs.aspx

 

Imzadi will definitely be going! 

 

My current plan is to join the Annapolis fleet (perhaps as it passes through
the Norfolk area to save a few days travel in Chesapeake Bay), keep the boat
at the Dinghy Club in St. Georges for about 2 weeks (so it can be available
for accommodations), and return to Norfolk/Hampton, VA area after the Cup
finals and when there is a good weather window. I figure I have room for 3
to 5 crew each way, and that there would probably be different crew in each
direction. Crew slot available if you can't take your own C to Bermuda.

 

So who wants to have a C rendezvous and watch the America's Cup in Bermuda
next summer?  

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List New Sails for my 38

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’ll second that recommendation. Although I haven’t bought any sails from them 
I will be when the boat is put back together. I’ve seen their product up close 
and in action, heard other recommendations and spoken with them.

Of course, by the time I need to purchase sails, most likely we’ll be using 
solar-powered sailboats…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Aug 6, 2016, at 12:09 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Try Ullman Sails in Deltaville.  Jerry or Justin can help you.  Good folks.
>  
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> C 30-2
> Deltaville, Va.
>  
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2016 11:45:34 -0400
> From: "Rick Brass" >
> To: "Charlie Nelson" >,
> >
> Subject: Stus-List New sails for my 38
> Message-ID: <000a01d1eff9$91f89e60$b5e9db20$@earthlink.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> It's time to replace the main and genoa on my 38 mk2 (and I actually have
> the money to do it).
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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Stus-List New sails for my 38

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Rick, 

If you are comfortable with Chinese sailcloth you might want to contact 
IslandPlanet http://islandplanetsails.com/  Island is out of Florida and 
Peak Sails  www.peaksailsna.com   and Peak is out of Virginia (Closer to 
you) 

They seem to be a good compromise between the direct order from china like 
Rolly Tasker and the traditional loft.  It looks like they offer services 
similar to a traditional loft but the cloth and sails do come from China 
with associated discounts. I have talked to Island Planet before and the 
vibe was positive.. Both seem to get pretty consistent positive reviews 
online. 

Another pretty competitive loft that's more like a discount North is Shurr 
Sails http://www.schurrsails.com/default.asp   out of Pensacola Florida. 
Their sails are quite popular on the lake here. The Main guy: Hunter 
Riddle has a really good reputation as a designer of innovative and fast 
sails.. Their cruising sails have a good reputation for solid build and 
reasonable price. 


Good Luck with it. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Stus-List New Sails for my 38

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Try Ullman Sails in Deltaville.  Jerry or Justin can help you.  Good folks. 
Pete W.Siren SongC 30-2Deltaville, Va. Message: 7
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2016 11:45:34 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" 
To: "Charlie Nelson" ,
Subject: Stus-List New sails for my 38
Message-ID: <000a01d1eff9$91f89e60$b5e9db20$@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

It's time to replace the main and genoa on my 38 mk2 (and I actually have
the money to do it).

  ___

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Stus-List New sails for my 38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

It's time to replace the main and genoa on my 38 mk2 (and I actually have
the money to do it).

 

I'm more of a cruiser than a racer any more. I only do about 4 charity races
a year, and have been adding cruising gear to the boat for trips to the
Bahamas (and Bermuda next June). So I guess I'm looking for durable sails
that still give me good performance - but not a set of racing sails. 

 

My old main is a Neil Pryde main with 5 full battens and a Tides Marine
Strong Track system that has given good service over more than 10 years.
I've retired the carbon 155 genoa and am using a roller furling 135 headsail
right now.

 

I've asked for a quote from the sailmaker I've used in the past (Omar Sails
in New Bern, NC). Based on recent positive comments on the list I've also
contacted Dirk Sharland at Rolly Tasker Sails in Florida. And because of my
experience with the Neil Pryde main I've contacted their loft in Hampton,
VA.

 

I'm looking for a good balance of performance, durability, and cost. Pretty
much weighted in that order.

 

I'm open to suggestions about features I should look for, and other lofts
from which I should request information and a quote.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Our (Chesapeake) PHRF rules do state - must be attached to the mast, must be
less than J length without penalty. No hand holding a stick...

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 8:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

 

The boat hook:  We only do it in really light winds 0-4 knots, were talking
glassy water on the lake.  It's a cinch do undo and it's a cinch to hold.  

We do sail under US Sailing rules and there are no stipulation whatsoever
about the length of the pole, it's attachment to the mast, or position of
the crew as long as we are inside the lifelines. I'm not trying to argue
against local rules as I have seen rules for other areas on the web where
there were mentions of attachment to the mast etc. On the lake, we don't use
local interpretation of the rules, we go strictly by the US Sailing / ISAF
document. 

Here's the actual rule from the ISAF 2013- 2016 document: 

Rule 50.3 Use of Outriggers 

(a) No sail shall be sheeted over or through an outrigger, except as
permitted in rule 50.3(b) or 50.3(c). An outrigger is any fitting or other
device so placed that it could exert outward pressure on a sheet or sail at
a point from which, with the boat upright, a vertical line would fall
outside the hull or deck. For the purpose of this rule, bulwarks, rails and
rubbing strakes are not part of the hull or deck and the following are not
outriggers: a bowsprit used to secure the tack of a sail, a bumkin used to
sheet the boom of a sail, or a boom of a boomed headsail that requires no
adjustment when tacking. 

(b) Any sail may be sheeted to or led above a boom that is regularly used
for a sail and is permanently attached to the mast from which the head of
the sail is set. 

(c) A headsail may be sheeted or attached at its clew to a spinnaker pole or
whisker pole, provided that a spinnaker is not set. 

Important part being part "C" Spinnaker pole or whisker pole but no mention
of it's description, attachment,  or position of the crew.  I guess someone
could argue that a boat hook is not a proper whisker pole.  Quite a few of
us do it on the lake and no one cares. As long a I don't get a protest:  In
0-3 knots I don't see any great danger, you can hold it one handed.. It's
simply a matter of convenience and ease of use. Also it's much quicker /
easier to change the depth / angle of  a portable pole instead of a heavy
thing attached to the mast, especially in extremely light winds where any
sudden move of the crew can upset the sailplan and kill your ever so slight
apparent wind. 


Just to be clear, here's the actual rule on the crew: 

CREW POSITION; LIFELINES 49.1 Competitors shall use no device designed to
position their bodies outboard, other than hiking straps and stiffeners worn
under the thighs. 

49.2 When lifelines are required by the class rules or the sailing
instructions they shall be taut, and competitors shall not position any Part
4 OTHER REQUIREMENTS WHEN RACING 28 part of their torsos outside them,
except briefly to perform a necessary task. On boats equipped with upper and
lower lifelines, a competitor sitting on the deck facing outboard with his
waist inside the lower lifeline may have the upper part of his body outside
the upper lifeline. If the class rules do not specify the material or
minimum diameter of lifelines, they shall comply with the corresponding
specifications in the ISAF Offshore Special Regulations.   

No mention of holding sails or anything else.. 


As I learned racing my Mustang.. Reading the rules very carefully and
knowing how to interpret them in a fair is just another item on the long
list of what makes the difference between the guy out front and the rest.. 

Here are the rules:
http://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/ISAFRRS20132016Final-[13376].pdf


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA






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Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We,  often sailing in very light wind, just received a 'windseeker' sail.
Haven't tried it yet, because we had 8-10 on Wednesday (and won). The sail
is attached to the tack, hoisted on its own luff rope, and is high cut - out
of spinnaker cloth. It looks exciting. Our 155% genoa is just too heavy to
use in under 5 knots. I hope it results in the one knot of increased speed
mentioned previously, but it cannot be any worse than our heavy all-purpose
155.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

 

I fully endorse the Drifter suggestion.  We have (as a part of the twenty
something sails that came with Corsair) a 1/2 oz Drifter that will get us a
knot of boat speed for a knot of breeze.  It has to be on the deck when the
true wind hits 8 knots.  We baby this 1971 built sail and it has proven its
worth numerous times.  I even took it with us on the Queen's Cup race and it
kept us going for a while until we were becalmed and had to retire due to
time constraints.

I still have Spankers, Bloopers and staysails hanging in the barn.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
White Lake, Michigan

On 8/5/2016 5:18 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:

Hi David, 

Yeah we do it all the time, it's also called a reaching strut. On our boats,
the whisker pole is overkill and kind of too big / heavy anyway.  Since we
only do it in very light winds I just get Nicholas to grab the boat hook,
push the clew out with it, hold it by hand  / prop it on the coach roof. 

It does make a significant difference in 0-4 knot wind as your genny has
some kind of shape as opposed to just hanging half folded up.  Last race
(Nicholas my teenage son was the skipper) and the wind was so slight I was
actually holding the clue by hand (We were on a close reach), this way I had
finer control.. And we walked away from everybody by a good margin at the
slightest puff.  It may not be the ideal angle / shape but it beats the heck
out of hanging like a limp flag.. Our competition said: Man! at the
slightest wheeze of wind you guys left us for dead...

Even better: Get a drifter headsail.. It's basically a genoa made out of .5
- 1.0 oz spinnaker material.. They start pulling at the slightest puff and
are relatively cheap. As long as it fits on your foil or is hanked on your
forestay it counts as a genoa, not a spin. It's on my shopping list for
sails hopefully sooner than later

Also, the boat does really well broad reaching at 148-160 degrees true angle
wing on wing with the whisker pole forward towards the forestay kind of like
reaching with a conventional spinnaker.  This way you're wing on wing but
have a speed advantage compared to DD by being at very advantageous angle
from a Polars standpoint.  As long as it does not take you too far of course
to get to your mark that's a good way to go as well.  Good for very slight
winds too.


Good luck,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA





Message: 3
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2016 16:43:55 -0400
From: David Knecht   
To: CnC CnC discussion list  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race
Message-ID:  

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We had a very light wind race on Wednesday and the downwind leg was a reach
to broad reach   I could not get the genoa to sit well and then I noticed
one of the other boats had the whisker pole to leeward holding the clew out.
I tried it and it seemed to help. Is this something others do?  Dave







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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Asymmetical for 33-2 . 75 vs 1.5 oz

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Dave, will you be using the kite in strong winds? Will you be using it a lot?
If the answers to both those questions is yes, then go with the heavier 
material. But if you plan to use it while cruising to avoid having to turn the 
engine on in light winds, then go for the .75.
My use is in lighter winds on my boat, and about 20 hours a year, (though the 
apparent has been up to 15 or so when reaching) and the .75 works just fine for 
me. I don't use it for racing.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 6, 2016, at 07:11, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Per my questions a few days back, I've gotten some quotes on asymmetrical 
> spinnakers for Windstar-  quite a difference between standard and made to 
> order.  'Standard' seems to involve 1.5 oz cloth (at i spinnakers and rolly 
> tasker) and MTO, recommended in my case at .75 oz. I have never owned a 
> sail like this.  
> 
> Can anyone comment on the utility of the 1.5oz vs .75 oz asymmetrical 
> spinnaker?  Tx.
> 
> Thanks, Dave.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
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