Re: Stus-List Racing a 30-1

[RANDY via CnC-List]

"That boat loves it when the wind pipes up" 

You were so right, Mike. Raced in 25 kt. gusts again tonight for the second 
time in two weeks, and won for the second time in two weeks. Carried full main 
and 155% genoa with six bodies on the rail and couldn't get a rail in the water 
or induce a round-up or feel excessive weather helm. Gapped the fleet from the 
start and beat the next boat by at least a minute. 

She does love the stronger wind. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Mike via CnC-List Hoyt"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Mike Hoyt"  
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 6:20:58 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Racing a 30-1 



If gusty and triangles and boats are “trying to stay in control or reduce 
weather helm” then bodies on the rail will keep you powered up and fast. 
Otherwise you will need a main trimmer to work very closely with helm to keep 
you on your feet 



If you JAM is triangles and everyone is at hull speed then you do not really 
require to be in spin class since there are no DDW legs and the 30 with a large 
genoa should always be moving. 



That boat loves it when the wind pipes up. Put some bodies on board and on the 
rail and do not reef too early and you will kick but on triangle JAM courses. 
Once you get bored of that and when you have 6 persons then try switching to WL 
with the spin 



Mike 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 1:49 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List Racing a 30-1 





Hi All, 





I'd welcome any opinions you might like to share on racing a 30-1. As mentioned 
in the other thread on handicapping JAM boats, I have a choice of racing my 
(new to me) 30-1 in a spinnaker boat division or a non-spinnaker boat division 
(my boat is rigged for spinnaker). We have ten-week series in my club, and I'd 
have to stay in one division for a whole series (but could switch divisions 
between series). We also have occasional one and two-day weekend races in which 
I'd have to choose a division. 





>From what I see in 
>http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf
> , it looks like a 30-1 usually gets a PHRF rating of 174, which would be the 
>third-lowest rating in my club. We've got a Capri-25 at 173, and an F-240s at 
>170. 





One of my questions is how many crew are advisable for racing a 30-1, with 
spinnaker or without. On smaller boats (Capri-22s, J/22s, Merit 25s) we'd race 
and fly spinnaker with three crew - helm, trimmer, and foredeck. A fourth could 
come in handy in heavy air. I've gotten a couple indications that I should have 
maybe twice that number for a 30-1. What are the typical crew positions on a 
30-1? If it makes any difference, my spinnakers have dousing socks. 





I race on a lake in Colorado. The spinnaker division courses are upwind / 
downwind, and the non-spinnaker division courses are triangles. We generally 
try to set courses so that races last 60-90 minutes. Weather-wise we have 
varied conditions from night to night. Some nights are frickin' gusty, with 
Colorado afternoon and evening thunderstorms. Some nights are light air and we 
run out of beer before finishing :) Several times a year we get really good 
conditions - a steady 15-20 kt. breeze in which everyone's at hull speed and 
and trying to stay in control and / or reduce weather helm. Sea state is not 
really an issue, except for some powerboat wake and chop. 





If there were more light-air nights in a series than heavy-air nights, would a 
30-1 perform better against its PRHF on a triangle course, or on an upwind / 
downwind course? How many crew (some experienced, some not, all still 
reasonably agile) are needed to handle a 30-1 safely under spinnaker in gusty 
or heavy-air conditions? 





Thanks in advance for any opinions. 





Best Regards, 


Randy Stafford 


S/V Grenadine 


C&C 30 MK1 #7 


Ken Caryl, CO 

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Stus-List List of 30-1s

[RANDY via CnC-List]

This is great information. Wish such a thing existed for 30-1s as well. Could 
we start a tabulation, or does one already exist? I only know of a few from 
this list: 

Hull #1 - Anchovy - Rick Bushie - Worton, MD 
Hull #7 - Grenadine - Randy Stafford - Ken Caryl, CO (tiller steering, traveler 
aft) 
Hull #377 - Nobody's Bargain - Ryan Doyle - New York 
Hull #453 - Windburn - Michael Brown - ? 
Hull #540 - Admiral Maggie - Aaron Rouhi - Annapolis, MD 
Hull #593 - Volunteer - Gary Nylander - St. Michaels, MD 
Hull #? - Wild Cheri - Ron Frerker - St. Louis, MO 
Hull #? - Sarah Jean - Nate Flesness - St. Croix River, WI 
Hull #? - Zia - Joe Boyle - ? 
Hull #? - Muir Ca-leag - Jeff Nelson - Halifax 
Hull #? - Cousin - Antoine Rose - ? 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Frederick G Street via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Frederick G Street"  
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 7:58:53 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc. 

John — here’s some info for you: 

Frank Noragon 
S/V Cool Change 
C&C Landfall 38, #001 
Rose City Yacht Club 
Portland, Oregon 

(this would have been a Rhode Island boat, I believe) 


Jeff Cole 
1979 C&C Landfall 38 
“Masala" 

(not sure of the hull number, but must be near mine; also a Rhode Island build, 
I think) 

— Fred 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 




On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:15 PM, John Sandford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 

Im just starting one judging by the feedback ! 
I got 7 replies already 
Do you have more information for Frank and Jeff,like boat name and year. Here 
is what the starting columns are 
Hull 

Year 

Owner 

Boat Name 

Built at 

Present Location 






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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

John — here’s some info for you:

Frank Noragon
S/V Cool Change
C&C Landfall 38, #001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

(this would have been a Rhode Island boat, I believe)


Jeff Cole
1979 C&C Landfall 38
“Masala"

(not sure of the hull number, but must be near mine; also a Rhode Island build, 
I think)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:15 PM, John Sandford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Im just starting one judging by the feedback !
> I got 7 replies already
> Do you have more information for Frank and Jeff,like boat name and year. Here 
> is what the starting columns are
> Hull
> Year
> Owner
> Boat Name
> Built at
> Present Location
> 

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[John Sandford via CnC-List]

Nice Job Paul.

I will cease and desist with mine.

#234

1984

St Margarets bay, Nova Scotia

No name. (formely 'Aquarius' but i took it off.)

 

 

From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 7:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

 

Paul:

 

Nice listing!

 

However, my LF38 was built in 1983--not 1985.  My hull and deck ARE balsa
core--not solid core as noted.

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com

Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


On Aug 17, 2016, at 6:34 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

Hi,

 

I put together a page containing a table of  LF38 hull number information.
Currently the table includes owner names which I was not sure should be
include. Let me know what you think. 

 

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HullNumbers

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[John Sandford via CnC-List]

Im just starting one judging by the feedback !

I got 7 replies already

Do you have more information for Frank and Jeff,like boat name and year.
Here is what the starting columns are


Hull

Year

Owner

Boat Name

Built at

Present Location

 

 

From: Lee Youngblood [mailto:leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 1:38 PM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

 

So who's maintaining that list of hull numbers?  Frank has hull #1, and Jeff
hull 115 I think?

 

 

On Aug 17, 2016, at 4:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
 wrote:





And I've got hull #009.

 

- Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

 

John,

 

I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   

 

Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally's is 90.

 

As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com
 .   It is free and pretty simple to start off.

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

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are greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List]

Paul,
I Have the LF38 hull 71, 1980, S/V Topanga II - berthed in Newburyport, MA.
Tom Lochhaas
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Stus-List Oddball 33-2 deck fill - again

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

I finally got around to getting my deck fill thread looked at by a coupla' 
suppliers of hose and fittings.They were stumped but did measure it and 
tell me what it isn't.  Photo and  commentary here:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/

I know this has been discussed but it was never conclusive, and not all list 
members have the issue.  

I will keep trying, but any experts out there?   It would be nice to answer 
this once and for all.   Thanks.
Dave.___

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Stinky Dog; LF38 hull #125 was destroyed by fire in 2007. I think it was built 
in1982.
she is dearly missed.
Ray Shibe
> 
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

Fortunately we didn’t do any anchoring in the Annapolis-Bermuda race this year!

 

Me:  5’ of chain and 100’ of 3/8” of three strand anchor line.  We racers keep 
it light.  8-)

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

 

My 35/3 had a fairly light Danforth and 10 feet of chain.  I used it only as a 
lunch hook, and it was pretty easy to haul up by hand.

 

My 44 has a 35 pound anchor (considered light for the boat by many) and 25 feet 
of 3/8 stainless chain.  When I tripped the breaker on the windlass and did not 
know how to reset it, I needed help hauling up the anchor and chain.  

 

Can't live with em, can't live without em!

 

Joel

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[svpegasus38]

Lee, Paul of sv Joanna Rose jumped on that sword. Bless his heart. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List Date: Wed, Aug 
17, 2016 09:38To: Rick Brass via CnC-List;Cc: Lee Youngblood;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.
So who’s maintaining that list of hull numbers?  Frank has hull #1, and Jeff 
hull 115 I think?

On Aug 17, 2016, at 4:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
And I’ve got hull #009.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:
John,
I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   
Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.
As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com.   It is free and 
pretty simple to start off.
-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[henry evans via CnC-List]

Hi Paul,
We have seen at least 6 or 8 in our 8 years of cruising on "Queen Ann's 
Revenge". Inland rivers & lakes, ICW, Great Lakes, down east Maine.  Sorry, I 
did not record names or hull #'s. Also a few Landfall 35's, 39's, 42's and one 
48.
For some period of time after he left C&C, George and Helen Cuthbertson owned 
and cruised a LF 38 on Lake Ontario. I remember they visited my home club at 
Youngstown, N.Y. on one occasion.  Sorry again, I do not recall the boat's name 
or have its hull number.
Cheers,
Hank Evans   PC Youngstown Yacht Club 

On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 5:35 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hi,
I put together a page containing a table of  LF38 hull number information.   
Currently the table includes owner names which I was not sure should be 
include. Let me know what you think. 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HullNumbers

-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[svpegasus38]

I like it. Mine is  Rhode island born. Maybe add current body of water 
where moored, just a thought. I am in Puget Sound. As a side note where can I 
get the build plans for the landgalls. I want to replace 1 q berth with a nav 
station. Not being as tallented as Wally, I need help. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Dreuge via CnC-List Date: Wed, Aug 17, 2016 
15:35To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Dreuge;Subject:Stus-List Landfall 38 hull 
numbers
Hi,
I put together a page containing a table of  LF38 hull number information.   
Currently the table includes owner names which I was not sure should be 
include. Let me know what you think. 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HullNumbers

-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Paul:

Nice listing!

However, my LF38 was built in 1983--not 1985.  My hull and deck ARE balsa 
core--not solid core as noted.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Aug 17, 2016, at 6:34 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I put together a page containing a table of  LF38 hull number information.   
> Currently the table includes owner names which I was not sure should be 
> include. Let me know what you think. 
> 
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HullNumbers
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I put together a page containing a table of  LF38 hull number information.   
Currently the table includes owner names which I was not sure should be 
include. Let me know what you think. 


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HullNumbers 



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under

[Ken Walters via CnC-List]

Just a few barnacles on the prop and a couple months of growth even on new 
paint can make a big difference here on the Chesapeake Bay. It has been a warm 
year...
Ken


> On Aug 17, 2016, at 4:10 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Should be pretty good. Good coat of vc17 this spring
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 12:16 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> How clean is the bottom?  Makes a huge difference
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 1:00 PM
> To: C&c Stus List
> Cc: Dave S
> Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under
> 
>  
> 
> Doug,
> 
>  
> 
> '85 mark ii, yanmar 2gm, 6.5kts in flat water, 2800 rpm I believe with new 
> gori folding 2 blade, same top speed with 2 blade fixed prop.  Stock prop was 
> folding martec (which I still have) don't recall top speed but I think it was 
> similar.   Std pop is spec'd as 16X10 RH IIRC.
> 
>  
> 
> Dave
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 14:53:49 + (UTC)
> From: "doug.we...@rogers.com" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?
> Message-ID:
> <1071368710.15852151.1471445629145.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
> feathering prop.?
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160817/17453300/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 08:00:37 -0700
> From: Free Girls Sailing 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under
> power?
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots.
> 
> Jessica
> 1975 C&C 33 Mark 1
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

Should be pretty good. Good coat of vc17 this spring

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 12:16 PM, Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List wrote:   
How clean is the bottom?  Makes a huge difference
 
  
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 1:00 PM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under
 
  
 
Doug,
 
  
 
'85 mark ii, yanmar 2gm, 6.5kts in flat water, 2800 rpm I believe with new gori 
folding 2 blade, same top speed with 2 blade fixed prop.  Stock prop was 
folding martec (which I still have) don't recall top speed but I think it was 
similar.   Std pop is spec'd as 16X10 RH IIRC.
 
  
 
Dave
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 14:53:49 + (UTC)
From: "doug.we...@rogers.com" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?
Message-ID:
        <1071368710.15852151.1471445629145.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
feathering prop.?
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160817/17453300/attachment-0001.html>

--

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 08:00:37 -0700
From: Free Girls Sailing 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under
        power?
Message-ID:
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots.

Jessica
1975 C&C 33 Mark 1
   
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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I'd always heard that you could carry a bubble in the main up to 50% back and 
still be fast upwind in a masthead boat.  It seemed to be true for my SJ24 and 
for the 30-1.Didn't work well on the J29 frac rig I crewed on.RonWild CheriC&C 
30-1STL


  From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:09 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction
   
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Josh;  The sailmaker who made my (now retired) 155 called the bubble in the 
main forward of the max draft a “speed bump”, said it was no big deal on a 
headsail driven boat like my mid-70s 38 mk2, and indicated it as a sign I could 
probably point a degree or two higher when going upwind.  Heck, he had sailed 
in the Americas Cup back in the 80s. Who am I to argue?  Rick BrassWashington, 
NC      From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:26 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction  Joel, With the 
narrow slot didn't you notice that the main got more back wind?  How did you 
handle this?Josh   
  

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I second that based on my old San Juan 24.  The 135 just couldn't do as well as 
the 150 upwind in light air.  Once over 15kt it was a different story.  Because 
of the swept back spreaders and less heeling, I could go faster and more close 
winded than with the 150.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Joel Aronson 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 10:25 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction
   
David,
When I added a 155 I was shocked at how much boat speed I gained over the 135 
in light air.  We also had the inboard jib tracks for use with the 155.  The 
inboard tracks made for a very narrow slot, but it was fast if you paid 
attention!Its not you!
JoelFormerly 35/3The Office

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Re: Stus-List Anchor roller arrangement on my C&C 38

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Listers,

 

Many good ideas and thanks to all for your input.  

 

I liked  Rick Brass's idea of adding provision for the asymmetrical tack
line to the custom roller mounting plate.   Paul E's use of the 4WD
controller is cool and his blog is even cooler.  Tom's photos show a really
neat install and it looks like the Quick windlass can take both rope and
chain.  This can help keep the weight down in the bow while maximizing rode
length.  I'm leaning toward a powered windlass but appreciate Josh's
thoughts on a manual unit and also his idea for a selectable fresh/salt
water wash-down pump.  Andrew Burton's photos give me a clear picture of the
modifications/adaptations needed to the existing bow area.

 

I've collected all these and put it in OneDrive folder:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgmLzIeljVDt4Uhjv

 

Thanks again,

 

Ron

 

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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Without significant chain or a kellet, the reversing tide at Chestertown does a 
superb job of wrapping your anchor line around the keel and/or rudder.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 13:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

I've not used a kellet, but another C&C owner, chef2sail, uses one and swears 
by it.  FWIW.

Joel
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I've not used a kellet, but another C&C owner, chef2sail, uses one and
swears by it.  FWIW.

Joel
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mark,

I read the article attached but came to a slightly different conclusion
regarding anchor and rode construction and deployment.  (I also wonder what
Mr. Smith's association is with Rocna anchors).   I'll concur, any anchor
rode or mooring rope can be stretched to its limits with enough force, be it
from wind, waves, or current.  While catenary of chain rode doesn't come
close to equaling the tensile strength of the chain itself, it will lessen
the effects of wave movements and other forces.  Not everything about anchor
rode is about keeping the anchor from dislodging from the sea bed.  A boat
that rides well at anchor generally doesn't have a jerking and lurching
motion, which can be offset by. You  guessed it. catenary in the anchor
rode.  I'll also put in a plug for using a snubber in areas where you'll
likely get strong wind and waves that may put an anchor and rode to the
test.  But for all the reasons suggested by other posters, I'll continue to
keep a length of chain between my stretchy 8 plait rope and CQR anchor.  Not
100% chain, not 100% rope, a combination.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 1:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

 

 

I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this list - so I
depend on learning from more experienced sailors.  This group is part of
that, plus I pay for a membership with Attainable Cruising Adventure -
https://www.morganscloud.com/ - lots of great info that has been tried and
tested in challenging climates (including an extensive discussion on
jacklines and tethers)

On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the effects are
pretty minimal.  This article is offered as evidence of the calculations.
Chain still offers some benefits, just not so much in catenary effect.

http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php

 

Mark

 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santana

On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck,

Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you're giving up one of the most
important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By
allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort
that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut,
serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on
an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a
crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free.

Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little
catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire
shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line,
I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise,
to manage those loads.

On Half Magic, we use 25' of 5/16" Galv BBB chain spliced to 200' of 5/8"
NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a
bit light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more
than 20' of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide
to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

 


___

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I completely agree with Mark's comments about chain--the big advantage is chafe 
protection in areas where there is coral and not the shock absorbing of the 
catenary effect.  Actually, you need a snubber made from nylon rope to get any 
significant shock absorbing benefit. 

I have one rode with all chain and I made a snubber for this rode.  My 
secondary anchor has 40 feet of chain and the remainder is rope.  Both anchors 
are 44-lb.  This anchor system is setup for the Bahamas.

I just added a windlass for my primary anchor with all chain rode.  If I 
thought I could get by with a 33-lb anchor I would not have added the windlass. 
 On the Chesapeake Bay I used a 33-lb anchor with 10 feet of chain for over 20 
years but the holding is generally very good.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Aug 17, 2016, at 1:00 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this list - so I 
> depend on learning from more experienced sailors.  This group is part of 
> that, plus I pay for a membership with Attainable Cruising Adventure - 
> https://www.morganscloud.com/ - lots of great info that has been tried and 
> tested in challenging climates (including an extensive discussion on 
> jacklines and tethers)
> On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the effects are 
> pretty minimal.  This article is offered as evidence of the calculations.  
> Chain still offers some benefits, just not so much in catenary effect.
> http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php
> 
> Mark
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santana
>> On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:
>> Chuck,
>> Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most 
>> important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By 
>> allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort 
>> that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, 
>> serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on 
>> an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a 
>> crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free.
>> Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
>> catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
>> shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, 
>> I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, 
>> to manage those loads.
>> On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
>> NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a 
>> bit light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more 
>> than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide 
>> to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia.
>>  
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 Landfall 35
>> Padanaram, MA
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>>  
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I used to use a kellet before I had my 30 feet of chain. They do work. If you 
use nylon anyplace there is coral prepare to see your boat float away with a 
cut anchor line.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 13:20
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

I used to see a lot of writing about the use of kellets as a way to reduce 
scope requirements or otherwise improve the effectiveness of ground tackle. Is 
anyone using one now? Are they an effective option? The idea makes sense to me, 
especially if hand hauling, otherwise just use a heavier chain. I have been 
pretty much resigned to having to purchase and install a bow roller, all chain 
rode, and a windlass for my C&C36 project. I had been led to believe that all 
chain is the only good option for Caribbean cruising. Certainly it is popular, 
but some of the comments in this thread have me wondering if a boat length of 
chain and the rest nylon might still be a viable option.
A dragging anchor in a crowded anchorage would be problem enough without having 
physical problems retrieving the ground tackle.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message -
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:02
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with 
all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 
feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no 
windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a 
windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the 
occasional chuck of dead coral...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Chuck,
Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important 
aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By allowing 
some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it 
takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a 
shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on an anchor rode 
means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage 
without worrying that your anchor will break free.
Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, I 
would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to 
manage those loads.
On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit 
light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ 
of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up 
in Maine or Nova Scotia.

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I used to see a lot of writing about the use of kellets as a way to reduce 
scope requirements or otherwise improve the effectiveness of ground tackle. Is 
anyone using one now? Are they an effective option? The idea makes sense to me, 
especially if hand hauling, otherwise just use a heavier chain. I have been 
pretty much resigned to having to purchase and install a bow roller, all chain 
rode, and a windlass for my C&C36 project. I had been led to believe that all 
chain is the only good option for Caribbean cruising. Certainly it is popular, 
but some of the comments in this thread have me wondering if a boat length of 
chain and the rest nylon might still be a viable option. 
A dragging anchor in a crowded anchorage would be problem enough without having 
physical problems retrieving the ground tackle.   

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:02
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff


  I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with 
all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 
feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no 
windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a 
windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor.

  Joe

  Coquina

  C&C 35 MK I

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

   

  Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the 
occasional chuck of dead coral...


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

   

On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Chuck,

Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most 
important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By 
allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort 
that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, 
serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on an 
anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded 
anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free.

Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, I 
would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to 
manage those loads.

On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit 
light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ 
of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up 
in Maine or Nova Scotia.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

   

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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

Thanks for your response. The 33-2s came with a yanmar 2GM20F. Best of luck 
with your repower.
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 12:57 PM, David Kaseler via 
CnC-List wrote:   We too have a 1975 33 with an Atomic 
4. What is your hull number? We cruise at 1800 RPMs and get about 6 knots. We 
are in the process of replacing our engine with a rebuilt  from Moyer Marine. 
If you are not familiar with Moyer Marine you should be. They are the authority 
on all things Atomic 4. They even manufacture C&C style engine mounts which 
seem to match the original specks.Dave.

Sent from my iPad
On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:00 AM, Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List 
 wrote:


We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots. 
Jessica 1975 C&C 33 Mark 1

On Wednesday, August 17, 2016, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
feathering prop. 


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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this
  list - so I depend on learning from more experienced sailors. 
  This group is part of that, plus I pay for a membership with
  Attainable Cruising Adventure - https://www.morganscloud.com/ -
  lots of great info that has been tried and tested in challenging
  climates (including an extensive discussion on jacklines and
  tethers)

On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the
  effects are pretty minimal.  This article is offered as evidence
  of the calculations.  Chain still offers some benefits, just not
  so much in catenary effect.

http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php



Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santana
On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
Chuck,
Avoiding
chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most
important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock
absorbsion.   By allowing some of the chain to lie on the
ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the
chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a
shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain
on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat
shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that
your anchor will break free.
Using
only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very
little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope
is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. 
If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I
had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to
manage those loads.
On
  Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to
  200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb
  CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and
  weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of
  water where we sail although we might rethink that if we
  decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia.
 
Chuck
  Gilchrest
S/V
  Half Magic
1983
  Landfall 35
Padanaram,
  MA


  

   


   


   


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list is supported by the generous donations of our
members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for
our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
appreciated!
  
  
 
  

  
  
  
  
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

We too have a 1975 33 with an Atomic 4. What is your hull number? We cruise at 
1800 RPMs and get about 6 knots. We are in the process of replacing our engine 
with a rebuilt  from Moyer Marine. If you are not familiar with Moyer Marine 
you should be. They are the authority on all things Atomic 4. They even 
manufacture C&C style engine mounts which seem to match the original specks.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:00 AM, Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots. 
> 
> Jessica 
> 1975 C&C 33 Mark 1
> 
>> On Wednesday, August 17, 2016, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
>> feathering prop. 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

So who’s maintaining that list of hull numbers?  Frank has hull #1, and Jeff 
hull 115 I think?


On Aug 17, 2016, at 4:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> And I’ve got hull #009.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   
>> 
>> Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.
>> 
>> As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com.   It is free and 
>> pretty simple to start off.
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

How clean is the bottom?  Makes a huge difference

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 1:00 PM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under

Doug,

'85 mark ii, yanmar 2gm, 6.5kts in flat water, 2800 rpm I believe with new gori 
folding 2 blade, same top speed with 2 blade fixed prop.  Stock prop was 
folding martec (which I still have) don't recall top speed but I think it was 
similar.   Std pop is spec'd as 16X10 RH IIRC.

Dave




Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 14:53:49 + (UTC)
From: "doug.we...@rogers.com<mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>" 
mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?
Message-ID:

<1071368710.15852151.1471445629145.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com<mailto:1071368710.15852151.1471445629145.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
feathering prop.?
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 08:00:37 -0700
From: Free Girls Sailing 
mailto:freegirlssail...@gmail.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under
power?
Message-ID:

mailto:hqatqvrqmhk4gf9a3crhktvvafgk3zv-7hqk5...@mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots.

Jessica
1975 C&C 33 Mark 1
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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Doug,

'85 mark ii, yanmar 2gm, 6.5kts in flat water, 2800 rpm I believe with new
gori folding 2 blade, same top speed with 2 blade fixed prop.  Stock prop
was folding martec (which I still have) don't recall top speed but I think
it was similar.   Std pop is spec'd as 16X10 RH IIRC.

Dave




Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 14:53:49 + (UTC)
From: "doug.we...@rogers.com" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?
Message-ID:
<1071368710.15852151.1471445629145.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile
feathering prop.?
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 08:00:37 -0700
From: Free Girls Sailing 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under
power?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots.

Jessica
1975 C&C 33 Mark 1
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Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Gerry,

I had sent you an email off list expressing interest.  perhaps it went to
your spam bucket?

Dennis C.

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 1:13 PM, Gerry via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  I have WP30 Autopilot I removed form my C&C 35 mk3.
> It came with the boat, not sure how well it worked but if you
> need any parts this could save you a bundle of money and time.
>
> Let me know if anyone has interest.
>
> Gerry Fennessey
> 35MK3 Fianna
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My 35/3 had a fairly light Danforth and 10 feet of chain.  I used it only
as a lunch hook, and it was pretty easy to haul up by hand.

My 44 has a 35 pound anchor (considered light for the boat by many) and 25
feet of 3/8 stainless chain.  When I tripped the breaker on the windlass
and did not know how to reset it, I needed help hauling up the anchor and
chain.

Can't live with em, can't live without em!

Joel

On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring
> with all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room.
> Having 30 feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works
> well. I have no windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35
> feet and lack of a windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and
> anchor.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Frederick
> G Street via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
>
>
>
> Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas *NEEDS* chain, to avoid chafe
> on the occasional chuck of dead coral...
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
> On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Chuck,
>
> Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most
> important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.
> By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the
> effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes
> taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using
> chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope
> in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free.
>
> Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little
> catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire
> shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line,
> I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise,
> to manage those loads.
>
> On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8”
> NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a
> bit light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more
> than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide
> to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia.
>
>
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with 
all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 
feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no 
windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a 
windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the 
occasional chuck of dead coral...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Chuck,
Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important 
aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By allowing 
some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it 
takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a 
shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on an anchor rode 
means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage 
without worrying that your anchor will break free.
Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, I 
would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to 
manage those loads.
On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit 
light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ 
of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up 
in Maine or Nova Scotia.

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?

[Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List]

We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots.

Jessica
1975 C&C 33 Mark 1

On Wednesday, August 17, 2016, doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile
> feathering prop.
___

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Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
feathering prop. ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the 
occasional chuck of dead coral...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most 
> important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By 
> allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort 
> that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, 
> serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on 
> an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a 
> crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free.
> Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
> catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
> shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, I 
> would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to 
> manage those loads.
> On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
> NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a 
> bit light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more 
> than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide 
> to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. <>
>  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30

[Gerry via CnC-List]

Hi Aaron,I'm looking for $50 plus shipping.This would help you keep yours going for a few more years.I don't think this unit would be good for anything but parts or backup.Thanks   On 08/16/16, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote: Gerry,I have a WP30 on my boat. It's not perfect by any means but keeps the boat in the wind enough for raising and dropping sails single handed so I would be interested.Cheers,AaronAnnapolis, MD79 30-1 Get Outlook for iOS_From: Gerry via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 2:14 PMSubject: Stus-List Simrad WP30To: Cc:  I have WP30 Autopilot I removed form my C&C 35 mk3.It came with the boat, not sure how well it worked but if you need any parts this could save you a bundle of money and time.Let me know if anyone has interest.Gerry Fennessey35MK3 Fianna___This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important 
aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By allowing 
some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it 
takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a 
shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on an anchor rode 
means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage 
without worrying that your anchor will break free.

Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, I 
would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to 
manage those loads.

On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit 
light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ 
of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up 
in Maine or Nova Scotia.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

 


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

We have hull #229 built in Niagara on the Lake.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38
Toronto

On Aug 16, 2016 9:48 PM, "John Sandford via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C&C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
> certain extent, based on my priorities.
> Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
> Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
> and results,(and budget).
> Understand that there were only a small number of the LF38 built. (I read
> <>250)
> Does anyone on the site have a tracker of which ones are still active, with
> simple details like, builder, layouts etc.?
> See that Bob's is 230, mine is 234, Wallys ?? Paul E ?? Fred ?
>
> And I would do up a rebuild blog, if anyone might be interested, but I have
> no clue how to start one.
>
> I have a few pictures though.
>
> Great forum and a great resource for me.
>
> Thanks
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wow ! What's the weight of all that chain and anchor on the bow? I appreciate 
your project and applaud you sharing the details. 

At the risk of drawing out the "flamers", I think windlasses are a little 
overrated. 

Avoid chain and you don't need the windlass. Avoid the windlass and you don't 
need a battery for the motor or the switches or wiring or problems when it all 
jambs under extreme load. I have heard so many windlass problems from neighbors 
at my marina, I'm glad I don't have one. 

I solo a lot so I rely on tried and true methods to break the anchor out. 
To pull the anchor, start the engine in neutral and then hand the anchor rode 
in till it is snug, tension it as tight as you can get it, cleat it and pull up 
in the middle of the line between the bow and the cleat. Usually I can work the 
line so the anchor breaks free and I pull it right up and onto the roller. 
Rarely do I need to use the engine to motor forward to break it loose. I'm 62 
and don't claim to be stronger than the average bear. This almost always works. 
The last trick is to tie a rolling hitch on the rode and winch the thing up. I 
have had my 36 footer for 12 years and never needed to do that. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Dreuge via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dreuge"  
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 3:01:34 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass 

Hi Ron, 

I recently installed a new windlass and upgraded the ground tackle on my LF38. 
I installed the windlass on the deck such that the chain hole is over the 
anchor locker whereas the windlass shaft hole is over the v-berth. I just 
started to writeup the windlass installation on my blog, but as of now it has 
mostly photos. For equipment, I went with the Maxwell RC8-8 5/16” G4 windlass, 
150’ 5/16” G4 HT chain, 150’ 5/8” 8-plait nylon rope, Mantus SS swivel, and 
44lb Vulcan anchor. Also I read good thing about using a 4WD winch controllers 
on a marine windlass, so I picked up both a wired and wireless winch 
controllers from amazon. The wireless controller works great but does have a 
slight delay which the wired controller does not. I chose not to go with the 
usual foot windlass switches. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5R0PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Here’s what I have so far: 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/Windlass 



- 
Paul E. 
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose 
Carrabelle, FL 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 




On Aug 16, 2016, at 12:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: 

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2016 12:59:00 -0400 
From: Ron Ricci < rvri...@gmail.com > 
To: < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass 
Message-ID: < 024601d1f7df$7ca71f30$75f55d90$@gmail.com > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

Maybe I'm getting old but am considering adding an anchor roller mount and 
windlass to my boat. I have a 33' Bruce anchor which I may upsize since I'd 
no longer be the windlass. It seemed pretty tricky to get the anchor and 
chain in with the head stay, jib tacks and mooring line chocks. 



Any advice and photos (especially of the bow roller & mooring line chock 
areas) would be appreciated. Please use link to OneDrive 
< https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgmIRm7Ain34SSCFu > to copy/paste photos 
that you can share or send them to my email address below (without copying 
the list). 



Thanks, 

Ron 

Ron Ricci 

S/V Patriot 

C&C 37+ 

Bristol, RI 





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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And I’ve got hull #009.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   
> 
> Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.
> 
> As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com 
> .   It is free and pretty simple to start off.
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL

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