Stus-List Bow roller options

[Rodney Meryweather via CnC-List]

On my C&C 35 I have a ProFurl system that works extremely well. The model that was purchased and installed was the LCI32 which has One Tube.
Rodney Meryweather865-755-8860rmeryweat...@mac.com

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Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
that you all are mentioning.

I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.

So far I've tried:

   - to come to a complete stop and try again
   - Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
   - short kick to full throttle.

The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
the clunk.

Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Rick,

I thought you would have been like a kid on Christmas morning riding their
new bike!  Let us know how they look once you've hoisted them.

Joel

On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 12:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I was shopping for a new main and roller reefing 135 genoa for Imzadi
> a couple of months ago, I was surprised and disappointed by the response
> from the lofts I contacted. Make that Lack of response.
>
>
>
> I contacted a local sailmaker that I have used before, four lofts
> recommended by the list, plus Rolly Tasker (Dirk at National Sails in
> Brooksville, FLA) because they have been recommended so many times on the
> list. (I’ve been reluctant to use an offshore loft because of all the
> reasons expressed by other comments on the list.)
>
>
>
> My local sailmaker gave me a quote. I got two others out of the 4
> recommended lofts. The Doyle loft actually got back to me 3 or 4 weeks
> after I had called and emailed, and by then I had already ordered. The
> North loft never responded to multiple calls and emails. And I was doing my
> shopping in late July and early August, when I would think the demand for
> new sails by racers would be falling off and before the rush of “boat show”
> orders.
>
>
>
> The quotes from “onshore” lofts ranged from just over $6000 to just under
> $6200, with some variations in material and construction. Based on the
> responses I had to questions and discussion of things like cross cut vs.
> radial vs. bi-radial for the genoa and various alternatives in sail cloths
> (Everyone, BTW quoted some sort of Challenge Dacron.) The whole High
> Modulus, High Fiber Mass, High Aspect, Low aspect, etc. etc., etc. can get
> rather confusing. I would say that the Ullman quote was the best. They
> offered me the 15% “boat show” discount if I would take the genoa now and
> wait until spring for delivery of the new main – which brought the quote
> down to about $6100.
>
>
>
> I ended up ordering from Rolly Tasker. The initial quote was so much lower
> that I was initially suspicious of it. I had a couple of conversations and
> email exchanges with Dirk about materials and construction before I placed
> the order. What I ended up with for the main is a cross cut “Offshore
> Cruising/Race” construction made from 8.8 oz. Challenge Marblehead cloth,
> loose foot, 5 full battens, draft stripes, sail number, C&C logo, 2 reefs
> with the second reef extra deep (as an alternative to a 3rd reef) for
> when I am actually offshore, and the sail is set up for my Tides Strong
> Track using the track slides and batten receptacles off my old main. The
> genoa is also a crosscut “Offshore Cruising/Race” construction using
> Challenge Marblehead in a 7 oz. High Aspect variety because most of my
> sailing is in lighter air, with a Sunbrella UV cover, draft stripes, tell
> tales, sail numbers, and trim strip on the clew to help with positioning of
> the genoa cars when the sail is reefed.
>
>
>
> The two sails cost under $5000, including shipping to me. They arrived
> last week (earlier than promised) and look really good. I’ve not flown them
> yet, but they seem to be everything I expected. So far I’m really pleased
> with the value and the service I got.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave
> S via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 24, 2016 7:07 AM
> *To:* C&c Stus List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update
>
>
>
> Thanks John.   Brad L had also recommended them.  Funny thing - I sent
> them the request and no response, and they are not the only ones.  I sent a
> second request, we'll see what happens.   It is interesting to compare the
> response from the various lofts.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Painting a Painted Hull

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Let me add to Dennis’ apt observations: if you choose the spray-painting route 
you will need all the supporting equipment to make it happen, i.e., a very 
large compressor to run that pneumatic board-file and more importantly, to get 
the correct airflow pressure and rate at the spray gun.

These are issues that I am dealing with at the moment. The compressor that I am 
using doesn’t “quite” have the ability to constantly supply 90 psi at the gun. 
This has not been a problem when shooting the primer but I expect that it will 
be when I go to shoot the top-coat. I’m mulling this one over right now; do I 
try to get by because I’m shooting very little area that is gloss or do I rent 
a larger compressor? One option I have is to gang another 30-gallon tank to the 
existing one. We’ll see.

If you go ahead and paint your hull you will find the axiom that preparation is 
90% of the job to be accurate. I would completely remove any prior paint. The 
spraying part is not the ‘hardest’ part. And keep in mind as I did, if you use 
Awlcraft 2000 or something similar, you can always come back and fix the 
mistakes. 

A new paint job on the hull is always nifty.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 24, 2016, at 11:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> 
> If you don't KNOW what paint is on the topsides, then the best course is to 
> sand it all off.  You could try priming over the old paint but you may 
> encounter compatibility issues.  
> 
> When I had Touche' painted, we did not know what the previous paint(s) were.  
> Rumors around the marina were that it was Imron but nobody knew for sure.
> 
> I prepped the topsides paint by washing with degreaser and sanding with 320 
> grit.  We sprayed a 3' x 3' test area with Awlcraft, the chosen paint.  In 
> that small area, the test spray beaded up on the old paint, reacted with the 
> old paint and generally did some other bad things.   The ONE thing it didn't 
> do was lay down smoothly as desired.  Oops!!
> 
> So, I sanded the old paint off.  I counted at least 2 previous coats.  It 
> took one day per side.  I used a Hutchins straight line sander similar to 
> this:  
> 
> https://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=4346 
> 
> 
> The results were very good.  Touche', like many older boats, showed post cure 
> shrinkage.  That is, you could see the pattern of the underlying roving on 
> the hull.  The Hutchins sander removed the pattern leaving a smooth hull.  
> This is important when spraying a shiny top coat.  Repairing all the 
> blemishes and having a smooth hull prior to painting is critical.  It took 
> three coats of high build primer with sanding between coats to obtain a 
> suitably smooth hull.  The sanding was followed with a top coat of Awlcraft.  
> I get compliments on the paint 5 years later.
> 
> Spraying paint isn't incredibly difficult but it does take patience and 
> technique.  The right combination of air pressure and liquid/air mix takes a 
> bit of work to achieve.  Finally, the application technique requires skill to 
> maintain the correct distance as well as trigger on/off when spraying.  A bit 
> of practice can develop your skill.
> 
> Interlux Perfection is billed as a paint somewhat geared to the DIY market.  
> 
> BTW, years ago I picked up a Wavelength 24 in Fort Collins and brought it 
> back to Louisiana.  I picked it up from a marine repair/paint shop.  Very 
> nicely painted by the lady owner of the shop.  Can't remember any details.  
> She used Sterling enamel.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 9:54 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Listers-
> 
> I've come to the conclusion that Grenadine's hull is painted the same color 
> as her original gelcoat (red).  It appears a coat of grey primer was painted 
> over the original gelcoat, then a layer of red paint was applied.  I have no 
> idea what kind of paint was used (is there a way to tell?) or when the boat 
> was painted.  What I do know is it's probably time to repaint.  She oxidized 
> pretty badly over the course of the summer, even though I buffed her three 
> times with a 3M marine product, and waxed her with carnuba, before splashing 
> her in the spring.  She looked pretty good and shiny back then, but the 
> summer sun took its toll.
> 
> So anyway, my question is, what wisdom might you listers have to impart, 
> about the proper way to paint over a painted hull?  Grenadine is on the hard 
> for five months now, and I'm not afraid of hard work.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> (on the hard in) Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a cont

Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

We've lived with a Martel two bladed folding prop forever. Occasionally one 
blade will not open but putting it in reverse and back into forward has always 
worked for us. Each time we haul out (once every two or three years here in the 
Northwest) we remove the blades and thoroughly clean and polish all the parts. 
Maybe that helps. We also apply a little grease to the moving parts but I'm not 
sure that makes any difference. If I were having your problem I would look 
closely at the surfaces that move against each other to be sure there are no 
burrs which might cause the blades to hang up against each other.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 25, 2016, at 4:43 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm having 
> an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec that you 
> all are mentioning.
> 
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out 
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it fails 
> to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing with 
> these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop. Unfortunately 
> that's not in the budget right now though. 
> 
> So far I've tried: 
> to come to a complete stop and try again
> Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
> short kick to full throttle. 
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to 
> our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it 
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard 
> the clunk.
> 
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure from 
> the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage the motor 
> after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?
> 
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[tom via CnC-List]

This happened to me also. Your prop is closing too tightly. There needs to
be some space between the blades when they close. The edges at the pin have
worn and need to have material added so that the blades do not fold
completely. More than likely the opposite is also occurring where the
blades are over opening and need some material added to those surface as
well.
Send it to Martec...it will cost about $125.

Tom Oryniak
33-1
Raritan Bay

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 7:43 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
> having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
> that you all are mentioning.
>
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
> fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
> with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
> Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
>
> So far I've tried:
>
>- to come to a complete stop and try again
>- Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
>- short kick to full throttle.
>
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back
> to our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
> the clunk.
>
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
> from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
> the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Make sure it's the prop.   I threw a ton of money at similar symptoms
before learning that the transmission was slipping.  (bang bang bang in
forward only, and intermittently, though progressively less so.)
Pulled the gearbox and did the repair myself in an evening for less than
$100 after replacing a lot of stuff.

Dave.



Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 11:43:15 +
From: Kevin Paxton 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
that you all are mentioning.

I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.

So far I've tried:

   - to come to a complete stop and try again
   - Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
   - short kick to full throttle.

The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
the clunk.

Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Depthsounder

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I need to replace the plywood backing plate and rebed my depth sounder as the 
throughull has been leaking the past couple of seasons. It usually stops after 
a few days once the plywood expands. 

Is there any way to do this without destoying the depth sounder?

As a first step, I attempted to back off the plastic locking nut, but of course 
it doesn't seem to want to budge.  Any suggestions before I just use brute 
force and just break it off?

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

You should be able to get enough wood out with a chisel or dremel so you
can loosen the nut.  If you are brave, a multi-tool would also work.  Just
don't make any extra holes!

Joel

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I need to replace the plywood backing plate and rebed my depth sounder as
> the throughull has been leaking the past couple of seasons. It usually
> stops after a few days once the plywood expands.
>
> Is there any way to do this without destoying the depth sounder?
>
> As a first step, I attempted to back off the plastic locking nut, but of
> course it doesn't seem to want to budge.  Any suggestions before I just use
> brute force and just break it off?
>
> Mike
> Atacama 33mkii
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel!   Yes, no extra holes is the priority here.

Mike 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 14:31:17 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the tips, I'll have to check it out more the next time I haul or
dive on it.

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016, 11:02 Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Make sure it's the prop.   I threw a ton of money at similar symptoms
> before learning that the transmission was slipping.  (bang bang bang in
> forward only, and intermittently, though progressively less so.)
> Pulled the gearbox and did the repair myself in an evening for less than
> $100 after replacing a lot of stuff.
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 11:43:15 +
> From: Kevin Paxton 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open
> Message-ID:
> <
> caokrqryaxxaxcfer76uuybknzaogfkfydz-tktommg+pcys...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
> having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
> that you all are mentioning.
>
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
> fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
> with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
> Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
>
> So far I've tried:
>
>- to come to a complete stop and try again
>- Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
>- short kick to full throttle.
>
>
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
> our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
> the clunk.
>
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
> from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
> the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Painting Hulls and Now Rolling and Tipping...

[David via CnC-List]

So I was re-painting my tired and mooring abused waterline stripes.   Killed 
myself sanding and prepping.  Watched videos on rolling and tipping.  Bought a 
high-end brush and armed with a quality foam roller went to work applying the 
Brightside.


Leaving out the self imposed debacle of coat one and the resulting need for 
re-sanding I start The 1st coat 2.0.


Start rolling and tipping again and immediately did not like the results.   By 
accident I just rolled the paint out more than once and found it laid 
beautifully as I gently re-rolled paint until all the bubbles were gone.


Bingo.   The results were what I was looking for.


Just thought I would share that bit of experience to those who may think their 
rolling and tipping skills may be wanting.   You may not need them after all...


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I have had good luck with jobs like that with a large pair of waterpump
pliers, failing that a pipe wrench.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 25 October 2016 at 11:39, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Joel!   Yes, no extra holes is the priority here.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Sender: "CnC-List" 
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 14:31:17
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Depthsounder
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Ever jumped into the world of bungee cord?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Looking to buy some hog ring pliers, rings and bulk shock cord to sort a
few things.  Am assuming that as in life, there is good and bad in bungee,
and that probably someone here knows all about it.
Need to repair my spinnaker pole, and also rig some custom-length shock
cords on various other items.   Seems like handy stuff and tools to have
around.  My web search skills have so far failed me.
Any suggestions as to sources, (I know sailrite, amazon) and how to discern
good from bad quality?

Thanks!

Dave
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joel;

 

It was a lot like Christmas! But Imzadi is out of the water to have the 
topsides painted, and it would take a real lick of wind to “ride the bike” off 
7 jack stands and across about 200 feet of parking lot to the water.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2016 8:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

 

Rick,

 

I thought you would have been like a kid on Christmas morning riding their new 
bike!  Let us know how they look once you've hoisted them.

 

Joel

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Painting Hulls and Now Rolling and Tipping...

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I repainted my boot stripe this spring with the roll and tip method, and 
Interlux Brightside, and was happy with the result. Sanded off old flaky paint 
thoroughly with successively finer grits, and applied two coats of paint. But 
the bottom edge of the boot stripe that was in the water all the time still 
blistered with lots of little micro-blisters, within just one season. The parts 
above the waterline still look good. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "David via CnC-List"  
To: "CNC CNC"  
Cc: "David"  
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2016 4:54:44 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Painting Hulls and Now Rolling and Tipping... 



So I was re-painting my tired and mooring abused waterline stripes. Killed 
myself sanding and prepping. Watched videos on rolling and tipping. Bought a 
high-end brush and armed with a quality foam roller went to work applying the 
Brightside. 




Leaving out the self imposed debacle of coat one and the resulting need for 
re-sanding I start The 1st coat 2.0. 




Start rolling and tipping again and immediately did not like the results. By 
accident I just rolled the paint out more than once and found it laid 
beautifully as I gently re-rolled paint until all the bubbles were gone. 




Bingo. The results were what I was looking for. 




Just thought I would share that bit of experience to those who may think their 
rolling and tipping skills may be wanting. You may not need them after all... 


David F. Risch 
1981 40-2 
(401) 419-4650 (cell) 

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Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

I had issues with my 2 blade Martec though not as bad as you describe.  I
would open with a clunk, sometimes stick when opening, and have some bad
vibrations. A surveyor informed me it should be be rebuilt, which is in the
works.  I replaced it with a 3 blade Campbell Sailer prop, which I'm happy
with, although reversing with the Martec had way less prop walk.


> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
> having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
> that you all are mentioning.
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
> fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
> with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
> Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
> So far I've tried:
>- to come to a complete stop and try again
>- Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
>- short kick to full throttle.
>
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
> our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
> the clunk.
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
> from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
> the motor after a sail. It's really frustratin
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