Re: Stus-List macerator switch

[T power via CnC-List]

Thanks Jim for the help. I found out quickly that changing the pump is not on 
my list of fun things to do 😊. Would you recommend a momentary or SPST.


Cheers,


Tom Power

Invictus

C&C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB



Sent from Outlook

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:13:36 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List macerator switch

I have the switch close to the pump so I can hear what's going on. Last pump 
made all sorts of strange noises just before it defenestrated itself. I also 
carry a brand new pump because I have been burned before and it's not fun at 
the best of times.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 8 May 2017 at 16:46, David Blair via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I put a waterproof switch at the helm near the control panel – advantage is 
being in a spot where it is easy to pump while underway – which is a 
requirement in our waters. It is momentary type too – avoids accidently leaving 
it running.  Also makes it easy to see the pump is operating, when the tank is 
empty, etc  Cheers

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of T power via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Indigo via CnC-List
Cc: T power
Subject: Stus-List macerator switch


I currently have a maceration pump that has a momentary switch located next to 
it under the sink. I believe this was installed by the previous owner. I would 
like some opinions on the best place to install the new switch. Is it common to 
have the CB on the distribution panel handle this operation or is it better to 
have a separate switch near the head. I'm thinking near the head, but I could 
be wrong. There is no shower so I think water will not be a concern.

Thanks.



Tom

C&C 30 MK1

Invictus


Sent from Outlook

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Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

[T power via CnC-List]

I also have the original 1973 cushions that need replacing. I like the idea of 
the memory foam option. Is there any problem with the cushion holding moisture 
from humidity. I plan to put something under the cushion like dri-deck tiles.


Cheers,


Tom Power
Invictus
C&C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of schiller via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 7:51:44 PM
To: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
Cc: schiller
Subject: Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

+1 on the Tuffted topper.  We have one for the V-berth but are now spending 
more nights in the main because there is more space and that is where the TV is 
(I know, rough life).  We do have a matress pad to add to the new cushions for 
the main.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Waiting for spring to bottom pain in White Lake, Michigan


On 5/8/2017 5:55 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
If you don't want to go to the trouble that Joe did, but don't like sleeping on 
the crack in the V-berth, try a Tufted Topper Pillow-Top Pad.  
www.tuftedtopper.com.  I bought one ten years ago, 
and it's as comfortable as it was when I bought it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 1:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I had finally had enough of the 1980 era fabric on 1973 era foam v-berth 
cushions and decided to make something better. I ordered a 6 inch thick king 
sized memory foam mattress and an electric carving knife from Amazon, drew an 
outline of the cushions, and started cutting.
So far so good :)
I crammed and stuffed it into the car, drove down to the dock, and now had to 
carry this huge thing in wind gusting to 30 onto the boat and get it aboard 
without getting launched off the dock. Well that was hard enough, but the next 
step was not totally thought through. The companionway and the passage past the 
head to the v-berth are not really up to king sized mattress moving. After what 
felt like a huge fight with an angry giant octopus, I finally got it up there. 
It is very comfortable too, but what a freaking pain!

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

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--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Stus-List List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

I removed the companionway hood on Morning Sky (35-3) and resealed with
LifeSeal but wish I had used butyl.  The screws seemed adequate, as there
appears no big structural issues...but there is a shallow 'crease' around
the perimeter of the hood (not the drain gutters to port and starboard)
that I have covered with rigging tape each year, and am going to caulk this
year.  It just collects slime and water and sits.

Also, while I had the hood off, I noted the plexiglass slid directly on the
teak of the companionway, and there was some allowance for the installation
of a nylon plastic "cap" and still accept the thickness of the hatch
plexiglass, enabling it to glide really nice! Make sure the screws are
recessed into the nylon adequately.  Looks finished as well.

Also...I am replacing several of the hood screws with snap studs to work
with the bug screens and fabric hatch cover I'm currently making.  Won't
need to drill around the hatch.

Last...make sure you have clear unobstructed water drainage to the port and
starboard lateral gutters.  I had a bunch of gray gunk damming the flow of
water from the hatch.  Hope this experience helps...


*Chuck Saur*
*​Morning Sky*

*St Ignace, MI​*
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Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I do have a Tufted Topper - got one years ago. It did help with the crappy old 
cushions and REALLY is nice on top of the new mattress. As far as moisture 
goes, that remains to be seen. I don't see any reason it will be any better or 
any worse than the old cushions. You can always put this stuff under the 
mattress: https://www.dri-dek.com/pages/marine

Some additional notes: The mattress came with a cover that with a little work, 
could be unzipped and removed. I cut the foam with the mattress out of the 
cover and put the cover back on. Some creative tucking has all the extra 
underneath and I am sure anyone handy with sewing could make it fit even 
better. The Tufted Topper is quite nice, but the custom fitted sheets were not 
so much. The bottom sheet would come loose and the top sheet was too small.  
YMMV
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 7:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth


I also have the original 1973 cushions that need replacing. I like the idea of 
the memory foam option. Is there any problem with the cushion holding moisture 
from humidity. I plan to put something under the cushion like dri-deck tiles.



Cheers,


Tom Power
Invictus
C&C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of schiller via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 7:51:44 PM
To: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
Cc: schiller
Subject: Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

+1 on the Tuffted topper.  We have one for the V-berth but are now spending 
more nights in the main because there is more space and that is where the TV is 
(I know, rough life).  We do have a matress pad to add to the new cushions for 
the main.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Waiting for spring to bottom pain in White Lake, Michigan

On 5/8/2017 5:55 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
If you don't want to go to the trouble that Joe did, but don't like sleeping on 
the crack in the V-berth, try a Tufted Topper Pillow-Top Pad.  
www.tuftedtopper.com.  I bought one ten years ago, 
and it's as comfortable as it was when I bought it.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 1:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I had finally had enough of the 1980 era fabric on 1973 era foam v-berth 
cushions and decided to make something better. I ordered a 6 inch thick king 
sized memory foam mattress and an electric carving knife from Amazon, drew an 
outline of the cushions, and started cutting.
So far so good :)
I crammed and stuffed it into the car, drove down to the dock, and now had to 
carry this huge thing in wind gusting to 30 onto the boat and get it aboard 
without getting launched off the dock. Well that was hard enough, but the next 
step was not totally thought through. The companionway and the passage past the 
head to the v-berth are not really up to king sized mattress moving. After what 
felt like a huge fight with an angry giant octopus, I finally got it up there. 
It is very comfortable too, but what a freaking pain!

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




___



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Jim via CnC-List]

I use Bed-It-Butyl tape which has been noted by others on this post.  
James Neirinck 
C&C 35 MK1 
Flamingo IV 
Lake of the Woods, Ontario 

- Original Message -

From: "Chuck Saur via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Chuck Saur"  
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 7:23:34 AM 
Subject: Stus-List List Butyl tape or is there something better? 

I removed the companionway hood on Morning Sky (35-3) and resealed with 
LifeSeal but wish I had used butyl.  The screws seemed adequate, as there 
appears no big structural issues...but there is a shallow 'crease' around the 
perimeter of the hood (not the drain gutters to port and starboard) that I have 
covered with rigging tape each year, and am going to caulk this year.  It just 
collects slime and water and sits. 

Also, while I had the hood off, I noted the plexiglass slid directly on the 
teak of the companionway, and there was some allowance for the installation of 
a nylon plastic "cap" and still accept the thickness of the hatch plexiglass, 
enabling it to glide really nice! Make sure the screws are recessed into the 
nylon adequately.  Looks finished as well. 

Also...I am replacing several of the hood screws with snap studs to work with 
the bug screens and fabric hatch cover I'm currently making.  Won't need to 
drill around the hatch. 

Last...make sure you have clear unobstructed water drainage to the port and 
starboard lateral gutters.  I had a bunch of gray gunk damming the flow of 
water from the hatch.  Hope this experience helps... 


Chuck Saur 
​Morning Sky 
St Ignace, MI​ 



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Re: Stus-List List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Chuck, your last point caught my attention, "I had a bunch of gray gunk damming 
the flow of water from the hatch. "; that grey gunk was very likely old butyl 
tape which had seeped from the hatch and also which caused the leaks you were 
experiencing...

 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, MIle 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck Saur 
Sent: Tue, May 9, 2017 8:24 am
Subject: Stus-List List Butyl tape or is there something better?



I removed the companionway hood on Morning Sky (35-3) and resealed with 
LifeSeal but wish I had used butyl.  The screws seemed adequate, as there 
appears no big structural issues...but there is a shallow 'crease' around the 
perimeter of the hood (not the drain gutters to port and starboard) that I have 
covered with rigging tape each year, and am going to caulk this year.  It just 
collects slime and water and sits.


Also, while I had the hood off, I noted the plexiglass slid directly on the 
teak of the companionway, and there was some allowance for the installation of 
a nylon plastic "cap" and still accept the thickness of the hatch plexiglass, 
enabling it to glide really nice! Make sure the screws are recessed into the 
nylon adequately.  Looks finished as well.


Also...I am replacing several of the hood screws with snap studs to work with 
the bug screens and fabric hatch cover I'm currently making.  Won't need to 
drill around the hatch.


Last...make sure you have clear unobstructed water drainage to the port and 
starboard lateral gutters.  I had a bunch of gray gunk damming the flow of 
water from the hatch.  Hope this experience helps...






Chuck Saur
​Morning Sky
St Ignace, MI​









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Re: Stus-List List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

this is a great Idea!


On 5/9/2017 11:38 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
Also...I am replacing several of the hood screws with snap studs to 
work with the bug screens and fabric hatch cover I'm currently 
making.  Won't need to drill around the hatch.


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Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Got a chuckle out of your (no name after 2 years).

I had an Islander 28 for many years that had no apparent name when I bought it 
and I couldn't pull the pin on a name.  Entered a regatta and put 'No Name'  on 
the entry form for boat name.   We came in 2nd on adjusted time and when I went 
to the podium with crew to get our trophy the announcer called us the skipper 
and crew of the 'NoName'  and pronounced it Nonam-eh).  That became her name.  
Stereotypical Canadian.




From: Donald Sebastian 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

 Joe,

I did the same thing with an mattress from Ikea.   I cut it down and 
actually resewed the cover to fit the new wedge shape so that can be removed 
and cleaned. The loss of head space is definitely worth the extra comfort.

Just a hint to help move it.   Put it in a thick plastic bag and suck the air 
out with a shop vac and then duck tape the opening shut.   This will compress 
it down to a small ball that will  grow fairly slowly back to size once in 
place and removed from the bag.I do this each season.

Donald
(no name yet after 2 years)
C&C 33 MKII




On May 8, 2017, at 4:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had finally had enough of the 1980 era fabric on 1973 era foam v-berth 
cushions and decided to make something better. I ordered a 6 inch thick king 
sized memory foam mattress and an electric carving knife from Amazon, drew an 
outline of the cushions, and started cutting.
So far so good :)
I crammed and stuffed it into the car, drove down to the dock, and now had to 
carry this huge thing in wind gusting to 30 onto the boat and get it aboard 
without getting launched off the dock. Well that was hard enough, but the next 
step was not totally thought through. The companionway and the passage past the 
head to the v-berth are not really up to king sized mattress moving. After what 
felt like a huge fight with an angry giant octopus, I finally got it up there. 
It is very comfortable too, but what a freaking pain!

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List nature's head

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Does anyone have one?
Thinking about a plumbing reduction.

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List nature's head

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Nature's head?  I use it every time I'm in the woods.

And...with regard to plumbing reductions, consider a prostatectomy.  The
increase in flow is significant.

(Sorry, Joe.  No experience to actually answer your question.)

Dennis C.

On Tue, May 9, 2017 at 3:35 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have one?
>
> Thinking about a plumbing reduction.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Moldy Lines

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my halyards 
and control lines have a green moldy tint on them. 

Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal?


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ 
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize



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Re: Stus-List nature's head

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I installed a Natures Head on my CS 30 three yrs ago.


I've not yet fiber-glassed over the inlet and outlet thru hulls -
  but I feel confident enough with the composting head that I'm
  planning to get it done.
In my case I didn't have a holding tank, needed new toilet and
  new hoses -- so the composting head was cheaper and far easier.


I basically took the old toilet out - dropped the composting head
  in it's place.  Drilled an air vent opening and added a solar vent
  in the head mated up with the air vent hose.


Toilet is bit too tall for the space - but I couldn't set it
  lower because the shelf under the toilet covers the curve in the
  hull.  Leaves you sitting with your feet dangling. I may raise the
  floor height - but given I'm over 6ft I'd rather not lose
  headroom. I can offer up some pictures if you are interested. Seem
  to remember that the Natures Head was an easier fit than the Air
  Head for my space.

I have had some small flies in the head (advised to use
  diatomaceous earth which I'll try this year)) - but no smell from
  the head at all. After 3 yrs I've not had to empty the compost yet
  (fairly light use). Worst part is emptying the urine jug - but I
  hope to add a 12V windshield washer pump discharging to the sink
  drain to simplify that task.


Overall I'm pleased.  Bit of a pain explaining to guests how to
  use it - but still less complex than a manual marine toilet.
Mark






There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-05-09 5:35 PM, Della Barba, Joe
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
Does
anyone have one?
Thinking
about a plumbing reduction.
 
Joe
Coquina
  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List nature's head

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

Just bought one for my new boat. Will install and try in June. I’ll be able to 
provide first hand experience on my return from Bordeaux in July.
Antoine
(C&C 30, Cousin and now also Ovni36, Maître Bau)

> Le 9 mai 2017 à 16:35, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
> a écrit :
> 
> Does anyone have one?
> Thinking about a plumbing reduction.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines

[Kurt Heckert via CnC-List]

I use a mix of Tide and Bleach in a 5 gallon bucket. Kurt & Connie Heckert 

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 5:53 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Listers,

As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my halyards 
and control lines have a green moldy tint on them. 

Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal?


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ 
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize



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Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I just throw mine in the washing machine.  Never done it but I hear fabric
softener is great for giving them a soft feel.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 9, 2017 5:53 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my
> halyards and control lines have a green moldy tint on them.
>
> Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+
> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Stus-List green lines.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

I use a messenger line and take them off. Put them in a net bag and put them in 
the washing machine. Do not use the drier as they shrink. (tried that).___

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Re: Stus-List macerator switch

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

On our 1989 C&C 30-2, our macerator switch is on the vertical face of the
molded in "vanity" in our head, just below the shower sump drain switch. It
very much seems like the right place for it since it is close to the Y
valve and head discharge/tank discharge thru-hull. It is a waterproof
switch because of the shower of course. I can definitely hear the macerator
in the head as it is mounted in the cockpit locker on the other side of the
bulkhead.

Of course ours very rarely gets used as it is illegal to dump within 3
miles off the coast (in US and CAN.) I am pretty sure the Straits and
inland rivers do not qualify as 3 miles offshore, but I could be mistaken.

KD

On Tue, May 9, 2017 at 4:03 AM T power via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks Jim for the help. I found out quickly that changing the pump is not
> on my list of fun things to do 😊. Would you recommend a momentary or
> SPST.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Tom Power
>
> Invictus
>
> C&C 30 MK1
>
> Fredericton, NB
>
>
>
> Sent from Outlook 
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:13:36 AM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Cc:* Jim Watts
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List macerator switch
>
> I have the switch close to the pump so I can hear what's going on. Last
> pump made all sorts of strange noises just before it defenestrated itself.
> I also carry a brand new pump because I have been burned before and it's
> not fun at the best of times.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 8 May 2017 at 16:46, David Blair via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I put a waterproof switch at the helm near the control panel – advantage
>> is being in a spot where it is easy to pump while underway – which is a
>> requirement in our waters. It is momentary type too – avoids accidently
>> leaving it running.  Also makes it easy to see the pump is operating, when
>> the tank is empty, etc  Cheers
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *T
>> power via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, May 08, 2017 2:53 PM
>> *To:* Indigo via CnC-List
>> *Cc:* T power
>> *Subject:* Stus-List macerator switch
>>
>>
>>
>> I currently have a maceration pump that has a momentary switch located
>> next to it under the sink. I believe this was installed by the previous
>> owner. I would like some opinions on the best place to install the new
>> switch. Is it common to have the CB on the distribution panel handle this
>> operation or is it better to have a separate switch near the head. I'm
>> thinking near the head, but I could be wrong. There is no shower so I think
>> water will not be a concern.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> C&C 30 MK1
>>
>> Invictus
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Outlook 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Do NOT use bleach.  It weakens the fibers.

Joel

On Tue, May 9, 2017 at 6:30 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just throw mine in the washing machine.  Never done it but I hear fabric
> softener is great for giving them a soft feel.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On May 9, 2017 5:53 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my
>> halyards and control lines have a green moldy tint on them.
>>
>> Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+
>> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, New York
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 7
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Slingshot around the sun


... sorry. Could not resist

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
Launched 4 weeks ago today

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: May 9, 2017 6:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Moldy Lines

Listers,

As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my halyards 
and control lines have a green moldy tint on them.

Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal?


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize



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___

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Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I bring all my lines home in the fall and put them in mesh washing bags in the 
washing machine with detergent and bleach and fabric softener. They come out 
very clean and plush, but I worry a bit that it wears them. And it can ruin the 
mesh washing bags. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 4:30:05 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines 

I just throw mine in the washing machine. Never done it but I hear fabric 
softener is great for giving them a soft feel. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 

On May 9, 2017 5:53 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


Listers, 

As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my halyards 
and control lines have a green moldy tint on them. 

Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal? 


All the best, 

Edd 

--- 
Edd M. Schillay 
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ 
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, New York 
--- 
914.774.9767 | Mobile 
--- 
Sent via iPhone 7 
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize 



___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 




___ 

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___

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

We use sheets and twings on our spinnaker.  No guys needed.  This way we can 
end-for-end the pole pretty easy, at least in moderate air.  The twings go to a 
small block on the rail near the shrouds.  The sheets go to blocks on the stern 
quarters.

 

In heavy air sheets and guys are preferred.  The guys sheet to a block on each 
side deck, a couple feet aft of the shrouds.  Dip pole gybes are safer too.  
Fortunately, when the wind is high, we just run double headsails.  It keeps the 
boat under much better control and we still go fast.

 

I use the inboard tracks for the #1 genoa, but only in air up to 10 kts TWS.  
We point much better with the inboard sheeting.  They get used a lot on the 
Chesapeake in the summer.

 

Jake

 

From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 21:23
To: C&c Stus List ; Jake Brodersen 
Subject: re:Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

 




Thanks Jake.  The 35iii is a very close bigger sister.


OK, so you lead your jib straight to the winch from  the genoa track, and it 
works..  check.


Should have thought the spinnaker through - I've only ever flown mine with 
sheets, no guys, and only in light air.  I can see that sailing with the spin 
"in anger" with sheets and guys you would want both winches.  Seems kinda 
obvious now  I am assuming the 4 lines would run though 4 snatch blocks 
clipped to the rail.

 

Do you use the short inboard tracks as well?  IF so, for what?  

 

Dave Syer, 33-2

 

 

 

 

   

   

   

 

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