Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 Went through Moyers years ago. Absolutely great stuff. A short cut for 
ignition problems is an induction timing light. You have spark or you don't. 
Can't wait to find out what is wrong.Michael
On Thursday, September 21, 2017, 7:30:46 PM MDT, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 If the fuel hose is original replace it to - the inner wall can collapse and 
starve the engine ... 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

So sorry, Bill. I remember the lovely sail we had several years ago when I was 
up at our family cottage in Pentwater, and then mixed up the names.  It is Greg 
Swetka who has a C&C35II, just like my Cat’s Paw. He had a bow roller made by 
White Water Marine, and then helped me get them to make one for my boat.
Eric

> Hi Eric,
>  Not me, I have a CnC 36...no bow roller..you must be thinking of someone 
> else.
> Bill Walker 


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

If the fuel hose is original replace it to - the inner wall can collapse and 
starve the engine ... 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Michael, I’m hoping it’s as simple as a stuck fuel petcock cutting off 
fuel flow.

There is also this good troubleshooting procedure on Moyer Marine’s site: 
http://www.moyermarine.com/newsletters/2-1-14.html.  First disambiguates fuel 
vs. ignition problem, then delves deeper based on what kind of problem it is.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 21, 2017, at 5:27 PM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You could do a short crank and stop then CAREFULLY feel the starters cables 
> for heat(don't forget the ground).  Intermittent no crank could also be 
> inside the starter solenoid. One more thing on the no start but cranking. If 
> you are still using a distributor with points the symptom you are giving 
> sounds like  a bad condenser. I used to have a 12v engine analyzer scope. It 
> was wicked good at solving these kinds of problem. Good luck.
> Michael Cotton
> 
> On Thursday, September 21, 2017, 5:09:54 PM MDT, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Glad you found the problem.  
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus (for sale) 
> Lf38 
> Rebecca Leah LF39 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/21/17 15:40 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Randy Stafford 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
> 
> Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
> sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right 
> up, ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
> wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
> closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
> circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.
> 
> Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
> troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then 
> suddenly easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was 
> stuck in what appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t 
> change that.  I suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel 
> line to fill, given enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in 
> the line, it wasn’t open enough to keep supplying the engine.
> 
> I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
> tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
> the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
> didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the 
> button.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> > On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Listers-
> > 
> > I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some 
> > thoughts to share.
> > 
> > When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> > then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a 
> > fuel flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn. 
> >  After ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, 
> > she started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then 
> > she cut out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I 
> > sailed for a couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back 
> > in, nothing happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my 
> > batteries didn’t have enough amperage for the starter, after all the 
> > previous cranking, though my other electronics were running fine.  So I 
> > docked under sail power, pulled the batteries, and brought them home to 
> > charge.  They both tested at 12.7 volts and 83% charge when I put them on 
> > my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% and 12.9 volts.
> > 
> > So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> > circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same 
> > effect as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the 
> > lazarette and start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but 
> > that’s my next step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone 
> > has any quick hypotheses.
> > 
> > Thanks in Advance,
> > Randy Stafford
> > S/V Grenadine
> > C&C 301- #7
> > Ken Caryl, CO
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> _

Re: Stus-List The Voyage and the C&C Northeast Rendezvous in Greenport (Captain's Log: Stardate 11772.3)

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Sailed from 3 Mile Harbor Sunday morning for Greenport but ran out of wind and 
ended up in Coecles Harbor Shelter Island.  Crew did not want to motor.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 21, 2017, at 3:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In case anyone is interested, here’s a little write-up of our voyage and 
> experiences at the 2017 C&C Rendezvous in Greenport:
> 
> http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2017/09/stardate-117723.html 
> 
> Hope to see everyone in 2018 in Port Jeff! Details coming soon.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 You could do a short crank and stop then CAREFULLY feel the starters cables 
for heat(don't forget the ground).  Intermittent no crank could also be inside 
the starter solenoid. One more thing on the no start but cranking. If you are 
still using a distributor with points the symptom you are giving sounds like  a 
bad condenser. I used to have a 12v engine analyzer scope. It was wicked good 
at solving these kinds of problem. Good luck.Michael Cotton
On Thursday, September 21, 2017, 5:09:54 PM MDT, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Glad you found the problem.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/21/17 15:40 (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out 
Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List The Voyage and the C&C Northeast Rendezvous in Greenport (Captain's Log: Stardate 11772.3)

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

In case anyone is interested, here’s a little write-up of our voyage and 
experiences at the 2017 C&C Rendezvous in Greenport:

http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2017/09/stardate-117723.html 
 

Hope to see everyone in 2018 in Port Jeff! Details coming soon.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Glad you found the problem.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/21/17  15:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out 
Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Story...

[T power via CnC-List]

Really cool history.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Irvin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 12:25:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Story...

Thanks for posting this.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2017, at 10:47 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So I have been volunteering at the Marion-Bermuda Race for the past 10 years or 
so and the booth that is located right across from ours is Garhauer.  I would 
see folks manning the booth but was usually too busy to think much more of it 
as we were busy fielding our own visitors.

Well this past Sunday I find myself talking with a gentleman at our booth that 
was from Garhauer and it was Guido!  We had a nice conversation about how the 
company started and I thought you might appreciate the great story he conveyed.

They started the company in 1971 and the name Garhauer is a compilation of the 
first half of Guido’s last name and the last half of Bill’s (the other founder) 
last name.
Bill was in tooling and Guido in engineering at another non-marine company when 
they started talking about starting their own company.  Not knowing what 
product line to manufacture they started to look around at opportunities.  Bill 
owned a sailboat and they looked critically at its hardware and the market.

So…they amble over to MacGregor yachts and in the middle of a parking lot full 
of boats on trailers they were approached by a gentleman who asked if they 
needed help.  They asked to speak with Roger MacGregor.  Well that gentleman 
was Roger MacGregor!   After talking about why they were there, Roger invited 
them back to his office.

Roger showed them the mast cradle used when the mast was stepped for trailering 
(it was inserted into the gudgeons) and asked them for an estimate.  They gave 
him one on the spot and Roger ordered 200 units right there.   That started 
them on their path to become a vendor of most of the boat manufactures in the 
Costa Mesa area for years to come.

Whereas in the past manufacturers was their primary customer and the retail 
customer a small piece.  Presently the inverse, not surprisingly, is now true.

Guido is a very nice man and I was sure to enthusiastically convey all your C & 
C accolades of his great customer service and products.





Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Hi Eric,
  Not me, I have a CnC 36...no bow roller..you must be thinking of someone else.
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, September 21, 2017 Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:

Doug,

I had White Water Marine make one for Cat’s Paw (CC35 Mk II), based on the 
positive reports from Bill Walker (on this list) who had them do his.  Bill 
sent his bow fitting (which had no roller) to them last winter and they 
fabricated one that fit perfectly and works well.  Since Bill’s boat and mine 
are the same, I had White Water make another one just like his, and again it 
fit perfectly and is a delight to use.  Bill might want to comment on this as 
well - I think he was also very pleased.


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 


From: Doug Welch 
To: C&C List 
Subject: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

Any recommendations for a replacement anchor roller. ?Ideally I want one that 
will hold a 15 kg Rocna, ?protect the deck to the anchor locker, have a place 
to attach a block for a code 0 tack line and an easy way to secure the anchor 
when not deployed.?
Thanks in advance
Doug
33-2 c/b


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Re: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Doug,
I had White Water Marine make one for Cat’s Paw (CC35 Mk II), based on the 
positive reports from Bill Walker (on this list) who had them do his.  Bill 
sent his bow fitting (which had no roller) to them last winter and they 
fabricated one that fit perfectly and works well.  Since Bill’s boat and mine 
are the same, I had White Water make another one just like his, and again it 
fit perfectly and is a delight to use.  Bill might want to comment on this as 
well - I think he was also very pleased.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Doug Welch mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>>
> To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller
> 
> Any recommendations for a replacement anchor roller. ?Ideally I want one that 
> will hold a 15 kg Rocna, ?protect the deck to the anchor locker, have a place 
> to attach a block for a code 0 tack line and an easy way to secure the anchor 
> when not deployed.?
> Thanks in advance
> Doug
> 33-2 c/b
> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber tape

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Yes, absolutely IMHO.  Bed-it brand,  available from a few places, but 
certainly Maine Sail.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/21/17  10:42 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Butyl rubber tape 

Rebedding as well.  So the consensus is the butyl from Maine Sail is the best?










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone





 Original message 

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List  

Date: 9/20/17 9:35 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Dave Godwin  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber tape 



Fred,



I don’t know about 1986 builds but I can assure you that 1982 builds were fully 
bedded using butyl. Right now I am in the process of cleaning up all the 
removed deck hardware on our 1982 C&C 37. Butyl in overwhelming amounts. 
Everything was bedded
 with it.



For which I am grateful. It is a great bedding compound. I’ve had virtually now 
soft spots. I just ordered a couple of rolls of it from Maine Sail.



If you are pulling hardware and re-bedding, use the butyl. Your best friend for 
cleaning up the old butyl is #3M Specialty Adhesive Remover, #38984. Melts the 
old butyl away.



Best,







Dave Godwin

1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit










On Sep 20, 2017, at 8:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:




Can anyone tell me if C&C's built in 1986 used butyl rubber tape under various 
tracks and rails.  I have a baby stay track and jib car track  that appear to 
be leaking.



Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or








Virus-free. 
www.avast.com 




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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!








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Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

Any recommendations for a replacement anchor roller.  Ideally I want one that 
will hold a 15 kg Rocna,  protect the deck to the anchor locker, have a place 
to attach a block for a code 0 tack line and an easy way to secure the anchor 
when not deployed. 
Thanks in advance
Doug
33-2 c/b

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber tape

[David via CnC-List]

Rebedding as well.  So the consensus is the butyl from Maine Sail is the best?



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
Date: 9/20/17 9:35 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber tape

Fred,

I don’t know about 1986 builds but I can assure you that 1982 builds were fully 
bedded using butyl. Right now I am in the process of cleaning up all the 
removed deck hardware on our 1982 C&C 37. Butyl in overwhelming amounts. 
Everything was bedded with it.

For which I am grateful. It is a great bedding compound. I’ve had virtually now 
soft spots. I just ordered a couple of rolls of it from Maine Sail.

If you are pulling hardware and re-bedding, use the butyl. Your best friend for 
cleaning up the old butyl is #3M Specialty Adhesive Remover, #38984. Melts the 
old butyl away.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Sep 20, 2017, at 8:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Can anyone tell me if C&C's built in 1986 used butyl rubber tape under various 
tracks and rails.  I have a baby stay track and jib car track  that appear to 
be leaking.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
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Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Alternative source for plastic marine tanks:

https://ronco-plastics.com/

Bill Bina


On 9/21/2017 12:45 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
I used their chart and found the tank which was identical to my 
existing tank and called them; they quoted a price and I sent them a 
check; the tank arrived via UPS in about 3-4 weeks;


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB Ohio River, Mile 594.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Wed, Sep 20, 2017 10:00 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

I see that I did not specifically say it, but I called the 800 number 
listed in the Kracor Catalog on Tuesday morning, and was told that 
they only manufacture tanks for boat builders and that they had no 
dealer network. They suggested that I call the manufacturer of my boat 
and order the tanks through them.
Not having an aftermarket sales network or providing support to owners 
of existing product just seems so unbelievable that I had to ask the 
list if anyone has actually ordered from Kracor.
Maybe they have two divisions and I am calling the wrong one? The 
Google search sent me to something like Kracor Rotomolding Inc. And 
that is where I found the catalog referenced below and got the phone 
number.
Richard, when you bought your replacement tank, how did you place the 
order?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] *On Behalf Of *Persuasion37 
via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 7:35 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Persuasion37 >

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks
Kracor's catalogue.
https://www.kracor.com/support/holdingtanks.pdf

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Sep 20, 2017, at 7:18 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That seems odd; I purchased my holding tank directly from Kracor
without any issue..I just called them up and ordered...
Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Sent: Tue, Sep 19, 2017 10:18 pm
Subject: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks
Long story short: both of the water tanks on my 38 have cracks in
the water fill fitting. The tanks are mold number 5060, and model
number 75330 (which I presume indicates the location of the vent,
fill, and drain fittings.
The cracks radiate out from the threaded fitting. The Kracor
catalog says the fitting is a 1 ½” straight thread, but my old
tanks appear to be tapered pipe thread. Maybe a product change
over the past 40 years, but I used Forespar elbows with straight
thread when I replumbed the boat a couple of years ago.
I am exploring plastic welding to repair the fittings, but I’m not
real hopeful it will work. So today I called Kracor to explore
buying two new tanks.
Kracor tells me they only do manufacturing of tanks for boat
manufacturers, suggested I call the manufacturer of my boat. No
retail sales to individuals. I explained that C&C was no longer in
business, and asked if they could send me to a dealer anywhere on
the east coast. Was told they have no dealer network.
Help!
There have been a number of recommendations to buy a Kracor tank
over the years. Has anyone actually bought one? And if you have,
where did you purchase the tank?
Rick Brass
ImzadiC&C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle AuroreC&C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please g

Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

If you ordered more than a couple of months ago, then Kracor was still 
in the retail business. They were sold in June, and things have now 
changed. It may have even taken a while for the change to happen after 
the sale.


Bill Bina


On 9/21/2017 12:45 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
I used their chart and found the tank which was identical to my 
existing tank and called them; they quoted a price and I sent them a 
check; the tank arrived via UPS in about 3-4 weeks;


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB Ohio River, Mile 594.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Wed, Sep 20, 2017 10:00 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

I see that I did not specifically say it, but I called the 800 number 
listed in the Kracor Catalog on Tuesday morning, and was told that 
they only manufacture tanks for boat builders and that they had no 
dealer network. They suggested that I call the manufacturer of my boat 
and order the tanks through them.
Not having an aftermarket sales network or providing support to owners 
of existing product just seems so unbelievable that I had to ask the 
list if anyone has actually ordered from Kracor.
Maybe they have two divisions and I am calling the wrong one? The 
Google search sent me to something like Kracor Rotomolding Inc. And 
that is where I found the catalog referenced below and got the phone 
number.
Richard, when you bought your replacement tank, how did you place the 
order?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] *On Behalf Of *Persuasion37 
via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 7:35 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Persuasion37 >

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks
Kracor's catalogue.
https://www.kracor.com/support/holdingtanks.pdf

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Sep 20, 2017, at 7:18 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That seems odd; I purchased my holding tank directly from Kracor
without any issue..I just called them up and ordered...
Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Sent: Tue, Sep 19, 2017 10:18 pm
Subject: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks
Long story short: both of the water tanks on my 38 have cracks in
the water fill fitting. The tanks are mold number 5060, and model
number 75330 (which I presume indicates the location of the vent,
fill, and drain fittings.
The cracks radiate out from the threaded fitting. The Kracor
catalog says the fitting is a 1 ½” straight thread, but my old
tanks appear to be tapered pipe thread. Maybe a product change
over the past 40 years, but I used Forespar elbows with straight
thread when I replumbed the boat a couple of years ago.
I am exploring plastic welding to repair the fittings, but I’m not
real hopeful it will work. So today I called Kracor to explore
buying two new tanks.
Kracor tells me they only do manufacturing of tanks for boat
manufacturers, suggested I call the manufacturer of my boat. No
retail sales to individuals. I explained that C&C was no longer in
business, and asked if they could send me to a dealer anywhere on
the east coast. Was told they have no dealer network.
Help!
There have been a number of recommendations to buy a Kracor tank
over the years. Has anyone actually bought one? And if you have,
where did you purchase the tank?
Rick Brass
ImzadiC&C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle AuroreC&C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC
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to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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