Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The install is pretty straightforward.  First off the biggest advantage to
this system is that it uses some type of capacitance to detect level.
Similar to the way our smartphones detect touch.  The sensors are
completely external to the tank and simply adhere to the outside.  This
means NO LEAKS.  They are comprised of 2 aluminum tape (metal duct tape)
strips installed in parallel on any side besides the top or bottom.  They
run from the top of the tank to the bottom in a vertical fashion.  As the
level in the tank rises the liquid capacitively couples more signal between
the two vertical strips.  This is processed into an output number and then
the user calibrates the specific number to a percentage of level during
installation/setup.  You choose different calibration intervals for ease
and accuracy.  Either a 2 point (full/empty), 5 point (25% increments), or
11 point (10% increments).  An 11 point calibration provides the best
accuracy for odd shaped tanks with sloping or curved sides.

Besides adhering aluminum tape to the side of the tank, a sensor unit with
2 pads gets adhered to the tank.  One pad to each tape strip.  The sensor
is a 4 wire device which has a short pig tail.  A user supplied cable needs
to be routed and connected between the head unit and the sensor.  A
template is provided for cutting the appropriate hole to mount the head
unit.  Then a 12v supply is required.  Then calibrate by filling the tank
to known volumes.  Overall pretty simple.

The aluminum tape strips won't work on metal tanks so the company provides
dip tube style sensors which can be installed instead.  The 37+ has a metal
fuel tank and a metal water tank in the v-birth.

The company also has an option for propane tanks (or any other tank) which
are already equipped with a 0 to 300 ohm output.  Just wire it up and
calibrate.  The head unit can accommodate 8 tanks. Fuel, water, sewage,
propane, etc.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 6:59 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
>
> I would be very interested in hearing how you installed this, including
> access to the tank sides to mount the sensors.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On Oct 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I installed this product.  I love it.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I installed a single tank sensor on my holding tank a few years ago and it 
works well.  The boat came with C water tank sensors and the panel has lights 
and switches which did not work.  I pulled two of the tank inserts this summer 
and it is just bare wire ends at 3 levels and a ground wire- all of which were 
badly corroded.  I redid the setup with new wire and reinstalled them.  No 
signal from either one.  I have put that project aside for now as it is not 
essential.  Dave


> On Oct 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I installed this product.  I love it.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello, 
> 
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
> but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
> all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
> plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
> wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated 
> them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people 
> also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.
> 
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125



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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I bought the model that Fred is offering a few years ago for my 
waste tank and like it very much.  The sensor for that one sticks to the 
outside of the tank.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



Get Outlook for iOS





On Tue, Oct 2, 2018 at 6:32 PM -0500, "Neil Andersen via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


















For the holding tank does the sensor go inside the tank??





Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


 

From: 20015712500n behalf of


Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 6:59 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Edd Schillay

Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
 


Josh,



I would be very interested in hearing how you installed this, including access 
to the tank sides to mount the sensors. 




All the best, 




Edd



---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize







On Oct 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:





I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html



Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 








On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hello, 



Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for
 odor control.  While I am down there, I was wondering if anyone has replaced 
tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them somehow.  It would be great to 
be able to monitor levels so if people also have done upgrades, ideas on that 
would be appreciated as
 well.



All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.



Cheers,



Maurice Poulin

C 30 MKII - Monoloy 














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Re: Stus-List years a C owner

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Have owned Resolute, a C 34R, now for 16 years.


> On October 2, 2018 at 1:20 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have owned Aries (C 34+) since 2013.  Previously had a C 34 which we 
> owned from 2005 until 2011.  
> Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> > > On Sep 27, 2018, at 9:36 AM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > Hello Al,
> > I have a question for the list.
> > How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or 
> > longer.
> > 
> > I bought Knot Again in 1993 and have owned her for 25 years.
> > Howard Paul, 35-3
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

For the holding tank does the sensor go inside the tank??

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: 20015712500n behalf of
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 6:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

Josh,

I would be very interested in hearing how you installed this, including access 
to the tank sides to mount the sensors.

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Oct 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them 
somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people also have 
done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.

All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C 30 MKII - Monoloy
___

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

I would be very interested in hearing how you installed this, including access 
to the tank sides to mount the sensors. 

All the best, 

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Oct 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 



> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hello, 
> 
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
> but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
> all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
> plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
> wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated 
> them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people 
> also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.
> 
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy 
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Stus-List Tank Level Indicators

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Maurice, 
For what its worth, here is what I did for the Great Lakes. Our 37+ has the 
light array too but like Ken says it must have been an option. I had a small 
holding tank and 3 water tanks. I converted our port side water tank to holding 
and put a tank monitor on both holding tanks that just tells me when it's 
almost full. I used a Dometic DTM01 sensor. I wired the LED bulb to the panel 
and it works great. I never run out of water and always refill when I pump out 
the holding tanks. Dometic can be purchased thru Defender and there is a 4 
light sending unit too. 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 


Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have them on our 30-2 as well. They work for water and holding, but not
very well. I figured there could be scaling or something else going on.
Input from others is welcome.

Kevin

On Tue, Oct 2, 2018 at 2:20 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Fred...shoot me an email @ davidrisc...@msn.com.  Thanks!
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 <(401)%20419-4650> *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G
> Street via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 2, 2018 5:10 PM
> *To:* Glenn Henderson via CnC-List
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
> I * THINK* my dealer setup with them is still active; if anyone on the
> list is interested, I can put in an order.  Let me know off-list.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I installed this product.  I love it.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical
> panel, but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to
> open up all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to
> change plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there,
> I was wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or
> reactivated them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels
> so if people also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as
> well.
>
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[David via CnC-List]

Fred...shoot me an email @ davidrisc...@msn.com.  Thanks!


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 5:10 PM
To: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

I THINK my dealer setup with them is still active; if anyone on the list is 
interested, I can put in an order.  Let me know off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them 
somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people also have 
done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.

All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C 30 MKII - Monoloy
___

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I THINK my dealer setup with them is still active; if anyone on the list is 
interested, I can put in an order.  Let me know off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I installed this product.  I love it.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello, 
> 
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
> but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
> all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
> plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
> wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated 
> them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people 
> also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.
> 
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy 
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical
> panel, but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to
> open up all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to
> change plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there,
> I was wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or
> reactivated them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels
> so if people also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as
> well.
>
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Maurice Poulin via CnC-List]

That's a good question! I assumed after 30 years they were shot, I do have the 
switches and indicator LED but I never looked behind the panel to see if there 
is wiring going to sender units!  Wonder if some retrofit exists if that is 
indeed the case???  

Thanks will explore further

Cheers,

Maurice
C 30 MK II Monoloy


--- Original Message 
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Sent: Tue, Oct 2, 2018 2:16 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators



On our 37/40 the level sensors and wiring for the indicators must have been an 
option.  We do have the switches and indicator LED's on the electrical panel at 
the Nav Station but there is no sign there was ever any wires running from the 
tanks to the indicators, nor any sign of level sensors in the tanks.


Do you see any evidence of wiring or sensors in your 30 MkII?


Ken H.


On Tue, 2 Oct 2018 at 15:10, Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello, 

Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them 
somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people also have 
done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.

All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C 30 MKII - Monoloy 

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

On our 37/40 the level sensors and wiring for the indicators must have been
an option.  We do have the switches and indicator LED's on the electrical
panel at the Nav Station but there is no sign there was ever any wires
running from the tanks to the indicators, nor any sign of level sensors in
the tanks.

Do you see any evidence of wiring or sensors in your 30 MkII?

Ken H.

On Tue, 2 Oct 2018 at 15:10, Maurice Poulin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical
> panel, but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to
> open up all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to
> change plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there,
> I was wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or
> reactivated them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels
> so if people also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as
> well.
>
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Maurice Poulin via CnC-List]

Hello, 

Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them 
somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people also have 
done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.

All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C 30 MKII - Monoloy 

___

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Re: Stus-List years a C owner

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Have owned Aries (C 34+) since 2013.  Previously had a C 34 which we owned 
from 2005 until 2011.  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 27, 2018, at 9:36 AM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Al,
> I have a question for the list.
> How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or longer.
> 
> I bought Knot Again in 1993 and have owned her for 25 years.
> Howard Paul, 35-3
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion - now shore power

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Whole new deal:
ABYC calls for the green wire AC ground system to be linked to the boat’s DC 
ground. What you are trying to prevent is AC current in the water – not CAUSE 
it.
If AC current leaks into the boat somehow, absent the ground connection to 
shore it will find its way via the water and can kill nearby swimmers. You want 
a good wire path back to the shore ground. OTOH now you are wired to every 
other boat, so you need a galvanic isolator to solve the problem you just 
caused.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 12:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

Only three things made of metal project through my hull.  The shaft, the rudder 
post, and the lead keel.  No bonding wires on the Marlon through hulls.  
Arguably the internals of the engine and A/C could be in contact via the 
cooling water and electrical ground paths.

Someone else tried to convince me that without an adequate ground path to the 
water that it was a shock hazard for nearby swimmers.

Josh

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Only three things made of metal project through my hull.  The shaft, the
rudder post, and the lead keel.  No bonding wires on the Marlon through
hulls.  Arguably the internals of the engine and A/C could be in contact
via the cooling water and electrical ground paths.

Someone else tried to convince me that without an adequate ground path to
the water that it was a shock hazard for nearby swimmers.

Josh




On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 11:07 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you want to protect metal, you need to connect it to a zinc somehow.
> Adding that jumper will connect the shaft zinc – sort of – to the engine
> which is connected to ground. You would have to measure the resistance from
> the engine negative connection to the shaft to see how well thiwould work.
> If your vessel has bonding connections, you absolutely need this jumper! If
> not, probably not.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 02, 2018 11:00 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and
> corrosion
>
>
>
> So Joe, you've joined me on the dark side!   You've isolated everything.
> My question still remains, When is the jumper needed?
>
>
>
> Josh
>
> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 8:19 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A couple of points:
>
> 1.   A zinc only protects things it is electrically connected to.
> This means it does protect the shaft and prop for sure. The engine and
> anything wired to the engine – maybe. If you think about it, there should
> be no such thing as metal to metal contact between a rotating shaft and a
> stationary engine. Everything that turns passes through bearings and seals,
> so the electrical connection more or less depends on the oil settling with
> the engine off and the crankshaft resting on a bearing. This is why
> commercial vessels have a carbon brush arrangement or other ways to connect
> to the shaft.
>
> 2.   Measuring voltage between things can be confusing.  Any two
> metals that are not the same alloy in salt(ish) water make a battery **if
> connected**. So if you have a bronze thu-hull and a stainless shaft, you
> will see voltage between them. If they are connected electrically, one will
> corrode. This is why they both would also need to be connected to a zinc so
> the zinc is what corrodes. Absent wiring between them, they should both
> just sit there, there is no current path. If two metals are connected by a
> bonding wire, you would end up measuring 0 volts between them. That is NOT
> good, that means the bonding wire is carrying the current and one of those
> two metals is corroding. Only good outcome is if one of the two is a zinc.
>
> 3.   The two choices are isolate everything, which is what I do, or
> connect everything and make sure it is all wired to a zinc. The prop shaft
> zinc is marginal for this job at best. Standard big powerboat setup is
> bonding wires everywhere and a big hull zinc besides for the prop shaft
> zincs.
>
> 4.   Connecting to shore power absent isolation now connects you to
> all kinds of underwater metal. The very best outcome is you eat up your
> neighbor’s zincs, but probably the reverse is what really happens, never
> mind some wiring malfunction that sets up current between boats.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 02, 2018 5:34 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and
> corrosion
>
>
>
> I've had difficulty finding the "correct" answer regarding "What are the
> shaft and prop zincs protecting?"  Most people agree that they protect the
> shaft and the prop, but what about the engine or the other metal through
> hulls?  What about the keel, and mast?
>
>
>
> I installed a shaft coupler isolator (for vibration dampening) which
> suggested a jumper wire across the coupler "if needed" to restore
> electrical continuity between the engine and the shaft.  I've repeatedly
> asked various resources, "When would it be needed?" with no consensus and
> little or no scientific or regulatory explanation either way.  I don't
> currently have a jumper installed.  I'm quite confident that I my anodes
> protect exactly what they are supposed to protect, the shaft and the prop
> and nothing else.
>
>
>
> If I were you, I would disconnect various ground and bonding paths and
> measure the voltages across the connection.  There is really only one
> acceptable reading.  0.00 volts. Anything else means that current is
> passing through that particular ground/bonding wire to the bonded item and
> then through the water around the boat to another underwater item.  Check
> for both AC and DC volts.  You might 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If you want to protect metal, you need to connect it to a zinc somehow. Adding 
that jumper will connect the shaft zinc – sort of – to the engine which is 
connected to ground. You would have to measure the resistance from the engine 
negative connection to the shaft to see how well this would work. If your 
vessel has bonding connections, you absolutely need this jumper! If not, 
probably not.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 11:00 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

So Joe, you've joined me on the dark side!   You've isolated everything.  My 
question still remains, When is the jumper needed?

Josh

On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 8:19 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
A couple of points:

1.   A zinc only protects things it is electrically connected to. This 
means it does protect the shaft and prop for sure. The engine and anything 
wired to the engine – maybe. If you think about it, there should be no such 
thing as metal to metal contact between a rotating shaft and a stationary 
engine. Everything that turns passes through bearings and seals, so the 
electrical connection more or less depends on the oil settling with the engine 
off and the crankshaft resting on a bearing. This is why commercial vessels 
have a carbon brush arrangement or other ways to connect to the shaft.

2.   Measuring voltage between things can be confusing.  Any two metals 
that are not the same alloy in salt(ish) water make a battery *if connected*. 
So if you have a bronze thu-hull and a stainless shaft, you will see voltage 
between them. If they are connected electrically, one will corrode. This is why 
they both would also need to be connected to a zinc so the zinc is what 
corrodes. Absent wiring between them, they should both just sit there, there is 
no current path. If two metals are connected by a bonding wire, you would end 
up measuring 0 volts between them. That is NOT good, that means the bonding 
wire is carrying the current and one of those two metals is corroding. Only 
good outcome is if one of the two is a zinc.

3.   The two choices are isolate everything, which is what I do, or connect 
everything and make sure it is all wired to a zinc. The prop shaft zinc is 
marginal for this job at best. Standard big powerboat setup is bonding wires 
everywhere and a big hull zinc besides for the prop shaft zincs.

4.   Connecting to shore power absent isolation now connects you to all 
kinds of underwater metal. The very best outcome is you eat up your neighbor’s 
zincs, but probably the reverse is what really happens, never mind some wiring 
malfunction that sets up current between boats.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 5:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

I've had difficulty finding the "correct" answer regarding "What are the shaft 
and prop zincs protecting?"  Most people agree that they protect the shaft and 
the prop, but what about the engine or the other metal through hulls?  What 
about the keel, and mast?

I installed a shaft coupler isolator (for vibration dampening) which suggested 
a jumper wire across the coupler "if needed" to restore electrical continuity 
between the engine and the shaft.  I've repeatedly asked various resources, 
"When would it be needed?" with no consensus and little or no scientific or 
regulatory explanation either way.  I don't currently have a jumper installed.  
I'm quite confident that I my anodes protect exactly what they are supposed to 
protect, the shaft and the prop and nothing else.

If I were you, I would disconnect various ground and bonding paths and measure 
the voltages across the connection.  There is really only one acceptable 
reading.  0.00 volts. Anything else means that current is passing through that 
particular ground/bonding wire to the bonded item and then through the water 
around the boat to another underwater item.  Check for both AC and DC volts.  
You might start with the shore power ground wire.  Easy as unplugging and then 
check voltage between the outlet ground and the plug.  Then move to the shaft 
ground brush.  Then separate your shaft coupling.  Each step looking for volts 
across the newly disconnected pieces.  That should prove or disprove a stray 
current problem.  If current is found then reconnect and move down the line 
until you isolate the problem to a sub-circuit or component.  Remember there 
are unexpected ground connections in waterheaters, computers, microwaves, 
battery chargers, inverters, TVs, antennas, light 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

So Joe, you've joined me on the dark side!   You've isolated everything.
My question still remains, When is the jumper needed?

Josh


On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 8:19 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A couple of points:
>
> 1.   A zinc only protects things it is electrically connected to.
> This means it does protect the shaft and prop for sure. The engine and
> anything wired to the engine – maybe. If you think about it, there should
> be no such thing as metal to metal contact between a rotating shaft and a
> stationary engine. Everything that turns passes through bearings and seals,
> so the electrical connection more or less depends on the oil settling with
> the engine off and the crankshaft resting on a bearing. This is why
> commercial vessels have a carbon brush arrangement or other ways to connect
> to the shaft.
>
> 2.   Measuring voltage between things can be confusing.  Any two
> metals that are not the same alloy in salt(ish) water make a battery **if
> connected**. So if you have a bronze thu-hull and a stainless shaft, you
> will see voltage between them. If they are connected electrically, one will
> corrode. This is why they both would also need to be connected to a zinc so
> the zinc is what corrodes. Absent wiring between them, they should both
> just sit there, there is no current path. If two metals are connected by a
> bonding wire, you would end up measuring 0 volts between them. That is NOT
> good, that means the bonding wire is carrying the current and one of those
> two metals is corroding. Only good outcome is if one of the two is a zinc.
>
> 3.   The two choices are isolate everything, which is what I do, or
> connect everything and make sure it is all wired to a zinc. The prop shaft
> zinc is marginal for this job at best. Standard big powerboat setup is
> bonding wires everywhere and a big hull zinc besides for the prop shaft
> zincs.
>
> 4.   Connecting to shore power absent isolation now connects you to
> all kinds of underwater metal. The very best outcome is you eat up your
> neighbor’s zincs, but probably the reverse is what really happens, never
> mind some wiring malfunction that sets up current between boats.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 02, 2018 5:34 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and
> corrosion
>
>
>
> I've had difficulty finding the "correct" answer regarding "What are the
> shaft and prop zincs protecting?"  Most people agree that they protect the
> shaft and the prop, but what about the engine or the other metal through
> hulls?  What about the keel, and mast?
>
>
>
> I installed a shaft coupler isolator (for vibration dampening) which
> suggested a jumper wire across the coupler "if needed" to restore
> electrical continuity between the engine and the shaft.  I've repeatedly
> asked various resources, "When would it be needed?" with no consensus and
> little or no scientific or regulatory explanation either way.  I don't
> currently have a jumper installed.  I'm quite confident that I my anodes
> protect exactly what they are supposed to protect, the shaft and the prop
> and nothing else.
>
>
>
> If I were you, I would disconnect various ground and bonding paths and
> measure the voltages across the connection.  There is really only one
> acceptable reading.  0.00 volts. Anything else means that current is
> passing through that particular ground/bonding wire to the bonded item and
> then through the water around the boat to another underwater item.  Check
> for both AC and DC volts.  You might start with the shore power ground
> wire.  Easy as unplugging and then check voltage between the outlet ground
> and the plug.  Then move to the shaft ground brush.  Then separate your
> shaft coupling.  Each step looking for volts across the newly disconnected
> pieces.  That should prove or disprove a stray current problem.  If current
> is found then reconnect and move down the line until you isolate the
> problem to a sub-circuit or component.  Remember there are unexpected
> ground connections in waterheaters, computers, microwaves, battery
> chargers, inverters, TVs, antennas, light fixtures and pumps.  Pretty much
> anything with a metal case mounted with metal screws, or interconnected to
> anything else besides power.
>
>
>
> If no current problem is found then consider using larger anodes, more of
> them, or less active anodes.
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

https://thumb7.shutterstock.com/display_pic_with_logo/1033249/363411947/stock-vector-electricity-from-lemon-battery-363411947.jpg

Nothing happens without the wire ;)


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

A couple of points:

1.   A zinc only protects things it is electrically connected to. This 
means it does protect the shaft and prop for sure. The engine and anything 
wired to the engine – maybe. If you think about it, there should be no such 
thing as metal to metal contact between a rotating shaft and a stationary 
engine. Everything that turns passes through bearings and seals, so the 
electrical connection more or less depends on the oil settling with the engine 
off and the crankshaft resting on a bearing. This is why commercial vessels 
have a carbon brush arrangement or other ways to connect to the shaft.

2.   Measuring voltage between things can be confusing.  Any two metals 
that are not the same alloy in salt(ish) water make a battery *if connected*. 
So if you have a bronze thu-hull and a stainless shaft, you will see voltage 
between them. If they are connected electrically, one will corrode. This is why 
they both would also need to be connected to a zinc so the zinc is what 
corrodes. Absent wiring between them, they should both just sit there, there is 
no current path. If two metals are connected by a bonding wire, you would end 
up measuring 0 volts between them. That is NOT good, that means the bonding 
wire is carrying the current and one of those two metals is corroding. Only 
good outcome is if one of the two is a zinc.

3.   The two choices are isolate everything, which is what I do, or connect 
everything and make sure it is all wired to a zinc. The prop shaft zinc is 
marginal for this job at best. Standard big powerboat setup is bonding wires 
everywhere and a big hull zinc besides for the prop shaft zincs.

4.   Connecting to shore power absent isolation now connects you to all 
kinds of underwater metal. The very best outcome is you eat up your neighbor’s 
zincs, but probably the reverse is what really happens, never mind some wiring 
malfunction that sets up current between boats.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 5:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

I've had difficulty finding the "correct" answer regarding "What are the shaft 
and prop zincs protecting?"  Most people agree that they protect the shaft and 
the prop, but what about the engine or the other metal through hulls?  What 
about the keel, and mast?

I installed a shaft coupler isolator (for vibration dampening) which suggested 
a jumper wire across the coupler "if needed" to restore electrical continuity 
between the engine and the shaft.  I've repeatedly asked various resources, 
"When would it be needed?" with no consensus and little or no scientific or 
regulatory explanation either way.  I don't currently have a jumper installed.  
I'm quite confident that I my anodes protect exactly what they are supposed to 
protect, the shaft and the prop and nothing else.

If I were you, I would disconnect various ground and bonding paths and measure 
the voltages across the connection.  There is really only one acceptable 
reading.  0.00 volts. Anything else means that current is passing through that 
particular ground/bonding wire to the bonded item and then through the water 
around the boat to another underwater item.  Check for both AC and DC volts.  
You might start with the shore power ground wire.  Easy as unplugging and then 
check voltage between the outlet ground and the plug.  Then move to the shaft 
ground brush.  Then separate your shaft coupling.  Each step looking for volts 
across the newly disconnected pieces.  That should prove or disprove a stray 
current problem.  If current is found then reconnect and move down the line 
until you isolate the problem to a sub-circuit or component.  Remember there 
are unexpected ground connections in waterheaters, computers, microwaves, 
battery chargers, inverters, TVs, antennas, light fixtures and pumps.  Pretty 
much anything with a metal case mounted with metal screws, or interconnected to 
anything else besides power.

If no current problem is found then consider using larger anodes, more of them, 
or less active anodes.

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

A couple of points:

1.   A zinc only protects things it is electrically connected to. This 
means it does protect the shaft and prop for sure. The engine and anything 
wired to the engine – maybe. If you think about it, there should be no such 
thing as metal to metal contact between a rotating shaft and a stationary 
engine. Everything that turns passes through bearings and seals, so the 
electrical connection more or less depends on the oil settling with the engine 
off and the crankshaft resting on a bearing. This is why commercial vessels 
have a carbon brush arrangement or other ways to connect to the shaft.

2.   Measuring voltage between things can be confusing.  Any two metals 
that are not the same alloy in salt(ish) water make a battery *if connected*. 
So if you have a bronze thu-hull and a stainless shaft, you will see voltage 
between them. If they are connected electrically, one will corrode. This is why 
they both would also need to be connected to a zinc so the zinc is what 
corrodes. Absent wiring between them, they should both just sit there, there is 
no current path. If two metals are connected by a bonding wire, you would end 
up measuring 0 volts between them. That is NOT good, that means the bonding 
wire is carrying the current and one of those two metals is corroding. Only 
good outcome is if one of the two is a zinc.

3.   The two choices are isolate everything, which is what I do, or connect 
everything and make sure it is all wired to a zinc. The prop shaft zinc is 
marginal for this job at best. Standard big powerboat setup is bonding wires 
everywhere and a big hull zinc besides for the prop shaft zincs.

4.   Connecting to shore power absent isolation now connects you to all 
kinds of underwater metal. The very best outcome is you eat up your neighbor’s 
zincs, but probably the reverse is what really happens, never mind some wiring 
malfunction that sets up current between boats.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 5:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

I've had difficulty finding the "correct" answer regarding "What are the shaft 
and prop zincs protecting?"  Most people agree that they protect the shaft and 
the prop, but what about the engine or the other metal through hulls?  What 
about the keel, and mast?

I installed a shaft coupler isolator (for vibration dampening) which suggested 
a jumper wire across the coupler "if needed" to restore electrical continuity 
between the engine and the shaft.  I've repeatedly asked various resources, 
"When would it be needed?" with no consensus and little or no scientific or 
regulatory explanation either way.  I don't currently have a jumper installed.  
I'm quite confident that I my anodes protect exactly what they are supposed to 
protect, the shaft and the prop and nothing else.

If I were you, I would disconnect various ground and bonding paths and measure 
the voltages across the connection.  There is really only one acceptable 
reading.  0.00 volts. Anything else means that current is passing through that 
particular ground/bonding wire to the bonded item and then through the water 
around the boat to another underwater item.  Check for both AC and DC volts.  
You might start with the shore power ground wire.  Easy as unplugging and then 
check voltage between the outlet ground and the plug.  Then move to the shaft 
ground brush.  Then separate your shaft coupling.  Each step looking for volts 
across the newly disconnected pieces.  That should prove or disprove a stray 
current problem.  If current is found then reconnect and move down the line 
until you isolate the problem to a sub-circuit or component.  Remember there 
are unexpected ground connections in waterheaters, computers, microwaves, 
battery chargers, inverters, TVs, antennas, light fixtures and pumps.  Pretty 
much anything with a metal case mounted with metal screws, or interconnected to 
anything else besides power.

If no current problem is found then consider using larger anodes, more of them, 
or less active anodes.

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've had difficulty finding the "correct" answer regarding "What are the
shaft and prop zincs protecting?"  Most people agree that they protect the
shaft and the prop, but what about the engine or the other metal through
hulls?  What about the keel, and mast?

I installed a shaft coupler isolator (for vibration dampening) which
suggested a jumper wire across the coupler "if needed" to restore
electrical continuity between the engine and the shaft.  I've repeatedly
asked various resources, "When would it be needed?" with no consensus and
little or no scientific or regulatory explanation either way.  I don't
currently have a jumper installed.  I'm quite confident that I my anodes
protect exactly what they are supposed to protect, the shaft and the prop
and nothing else.

If I were you, I would disconnect various ground and bonding paths and
measure the voltages across the connection.  There is really only one
acceptable reading.  0.00 volts. Anything else means that current is
passing through that particular ground/bonding wire to the bonded item and
then through the water around the boat to another underwater item.  Check
for both AC and DC volts.  You might start with the shore power ground
wire.  Easy as unplugging and then check voltage between the outlet ground
and the plug.  Then move to the shaft ground brush.  Then separate your
shaft coupling.  Each step looking for volts across the newly disconnected
pieces.  That should prove or disprove a stray current problem.  If current
is found then reconnect and move down the line until you isolate the
problem to a sub-circuit or component.  Remember there are unexpected
ground connections in waterheaters, computers, microwaves, battery
chargers, inverters, TVs, antennas, light fixtures and pumps.  Pretty much
anything with a metal case mounted with metal screws, or interconnected to
anything else besides power.

If no current problem is found then consider using larger anodes, more of
them, or less active anodes.

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, Sep 30, 2018, 4:00 PM Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I seem to be burning through zincs on my prop shaft, replace them at least
> twice or more in a season. I posted a photo previously in the group of a
> shaft brush (https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/my-drive) someone helped
> me figure out what it was. Currently the wire on it leads nowhere which got
> my started on this goose chase, researching shaft brush’s and bonding
> systems.
>
> Anyway my question is should I be connecting the wire coming from this
> shaft brush to a DC ground? Or will that simply connect the stray current
> from the dissimilar metals (bronze prop, steel shaft) outside of the boat,
> to the engine “earth” and start to corrode the engine?
>
> I’ve got AC shore power but had a Galvanic Isolator installed, so I’m not
> sure where the stray current is coming from or what is eating through these
> zincs so quickly. If anyone has any ideas or has had a similar experience
> with burning through zincs or bonding systems, and found a solution (other
> than changing zincs more frequently) please let me know!
>
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI
> Hull 615
>
> Vancouver BC
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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