Re: Stus-List Glue residue

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

Rubbing alcohol is very effective in many cases too.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: November 28, 2018 4:54 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Glue residue

Most decal adhesives can be removed with mineral spirits.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018, 1:12 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hey all;

I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk about 
delaying things!

Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted hull.

Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.

I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go for 
it because of the Awlgrip.

OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching the 
Awlgrip.

Suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Glue residue

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Most decal adhesives can be removed with mineral spirits.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018, 1:12 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

>
> Hey all;
>
> I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk
> about delaying things!
>
> Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted
> hull.
>
> Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.
>
> I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go
> for it because of the Awlgrip.
>
> OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching
> the Awlgrip.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a
straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the
nuts.

Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4
fastener holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring
around the fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I
used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.

The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair,
sanded and painted.

The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed without
any further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates that the
job was successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have done an
alignment.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1#83
Mandevile, LA

On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally
the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it
doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for
bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on
how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the
fairing.

>From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and
bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with
a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is
required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and
replace, seal, and re-fair.

My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft
slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log
and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I
can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more
time than money, so DIY work is preferred.

2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan
final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands
cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an
independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.

2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method
of application?

The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of
clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at
Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar
mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound
like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop
speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I
purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of
motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit,
and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing.

Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something
similar. All help is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
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Stus-List Prop shaft strut ....

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Tim, I would recommend you check the shaft for true while you have it out, roll 
it on a flat surface like a granite countertop if you don’t have access to a 
shop. You need to eliminate all vibration. I would look at changing the prop if 
it doesn’t come back vibration free and do the final engine alignment in the 
water or at least recheck it afloat. 
Len

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Several folks on the list seem to be interested in seeing the access panel I 
installed in the rear of Cat’s Paw's cockpit.  I’ll be at the boat Sunday or 
Monday and will take pictures of the installation, so I can post them in the 
Public folder of my Dropbox.  I’ll post the URL of that folder when I post the 
pictures (not knowing how to post them properly like most of our list serve 
obviously know!).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Glue residue

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie - you are right to be hesitant about any type of cleaning pad
(scotch-brite, etc).  They will scratch your paint!

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018, 2:12 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

>
> Hey all;
>
> I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk
> about delaying things!
>
> Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted
> hull.
>
> Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.
>
> I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go
> for it because of the Awlgrip.
>
> OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching
> the Awlgrip.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Glue residue

[robert via CnC-List]

I took the glue residue off my transom when I took the old name off with 
a very inexpensive product called Goo Gonea liquid in a small 
plastic container.after several applications, it even seemed to 
lift, at the least, lighten the gelcoat where the old vinyl was 
removed.  There is no abrasive, just liquid.


I probably didn't need to spend $4 or $5 Gasoline or a paint 
thinner, readily available in my garage, probably would have worked just 
as well.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


Hey all;

I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my 
boat--talk about delaying things!


Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip 
painted hull.


Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.

I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just 
go for it because of the Awlgrip.


OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of 
scratching the Awlgrip.


Suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tim,

While I haven't had to change out the strut, I've removed/reinstalled 
the engine a few times (don't ask), and used your basic approach:  shaft 
sliding easily in the bearing and centered in the log, then set the 
engine flange to the shaft flange while on the hard.  Checked it after 
splash, and found I had to adjust the engine a bit as the boat does flex 
differently in the water.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/28/2018 10:15 AM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List wrote:
Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and 
externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut 
base although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. 
She's on the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm 
interested in your thoughts on how best to proceed to remedy the strut 
mount leak and cracks in the fairing.


From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned 
and bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were 
drilled with a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the 
strut all that is required is to remove the fairing material and then 
simply remove and replace, seal, and re-fair.


My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is 
necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the 
shaft slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the 
shaft log and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all 
the above, than I can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, 
call a pro? I have more time than money, so DIY work is preferred.


2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I 
plan final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the 
yard stands cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working 
with an independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.


2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the 
method of application?


The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of 
clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's 
back at Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back 
with OE Yanmar mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail 
locker lid to sound like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency 
that was probably 2X prop speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but 
there was no change since I purchased the boat in June '17, and after 
about a hundred hours of motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is 
getting a new maintenance kit, and of course, the strut a new cutlass 
bearing.


Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something 
similar. All help is appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
813 748 4888 cel/text


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Re: Stus-List Glue residue

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Stripe off 3m wheel should work.  I used it to get the old port of call off the 
transom of Persistence which has a painted hull.  No scratches.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Glue residue


Hey all;

I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk about 
delaying things!

Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted hull.

Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.

I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go for 
it because of the Awlgrip.

OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching the 
Awlgrip.

Suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Hi Eric and Lee,
I would also like to see what Eric has done. I was thinking of doing something 
like this to my MkII. It would certainly make access to the rear area a lot 
easier. 
As far as water getting into the rear quarter it might be getting in via the 
little wood/plastic panel that sits just aft of the cockpit. (above where Eric 
put his panel).  Mine has a cowl vent and a LPG hose coming out of it. It is 
wood now and is warping and leaking. I am about to replace it and seal it up. 
Cheers,
Bill

Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C&C35 MkII
in Victoria,BC



> On Nov 28, 2018, at 9:52 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi  Lee,
> 
> There is a more involved solution to this than Don Kern suggested, although 
> he is correct that the problem is almost certainly plugged up limber holes.  
> To install a boarding ladder on the stern transom of Cats Paw, I needed to 
> get even more access to that area than you need to clean out the limber 
> holes.  I installed a fairly large panel in the back wall of the cockpit, 
> giving direct access to this area.  From standard suppliers, these panels are 
> fairly expensive, but I found one on eBay for less than $100.  It hinges up 
> and the hinges are stiff enough to hold it open.  It has a rubber seal around 
> the circumference that seems to seal it very well.  I cut a rectangular 
> opening in the cockpit wall and installed the panel. Tested for leaks by 
> blasting water at it when on the hard, and could detect no leaks. And if the 
> cockpit should fill with water in a knockdown (has never happened to me yet, 
> and hope it never will!) the pressure of that water would help seal the panel 
> rather than for
> ce it open.  So far (now on 3 years) no problems, and it has been very useful 
> in getting access to this area for a number of reasons.  If you are 
> interested in pursuing this, I can get the dimensions this weekend and send 
> them to you, along with trying to track down the source.
> 
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 
>> I have a sweet C&C 35-II, and I?m storing a few gallons of water in the 
>> stern of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.  
>> It?s not for drinking, and I don?t know how it got there, but when I pull 
>> the cap for the vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.  
>> OK I live in Seattle and it?s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much 
>> rain comes through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the cockpit?  
>> I only looked because my bilge pump was going off for about 20 sec. every 20 
>> min.  Water was trickling down below the engine, and s couple years ago, I 
>> tossed the boat really well, and we flushed out the construction insulation 
>> crumbs under the icebox into the pots and pans under the stove - that was a 
>> mess and another story.  Anyway, does anyone else find water in the stern 
>> behind the helm position?  Have you looked recently?
>> 
>> On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good quality 
>> drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the usual 
>> rusting metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make or link?
>> 
>> Thanks, Lee
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Glue residue

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Lacquer thinner will not harm the paint, but it may not remove the glue.  I
would not use a scotch brite!

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 2:12 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hey all;
>
> I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk
> about delaying things!
>
> Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted
> hull.
>
> Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.
>
> I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go
> for it because of the Awlgrip.
>
> OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching
> the Awlgrip.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Glue residue

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

 
Hey all;
 
I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk about 
delaying things!
 
Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted hull.
 
Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue. 
 
I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go for 
it because of the Awlgrip.
 
OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching the 
Awlgrip.
 
Suggestions welcome.
 
Thanks,
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C XL/kcb
 
 
cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Limber hole issue

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Matt,

Some epoxy would do the trick.  Might need some thickener.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 10:11 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers:
>
> While on the topic of unwanted water accumulation, I have a couple
> limber holes that were not drilled level with the hull (about 1/2” too
> high) and, as a result, a certain amount water must accumulate before the
> area drains.  The result is that these areas are always wet.  I suppose I
> could open up the limber holes, but they appear to be tubes glassed in
> place (metal or fiberglass, which is painted).  A prior owner placed bondo
> or something on the hull to eliminate the gap below the limber hole but did
> not do a very good job.  I am thinking about replacing the bondo with
> another leveling material – something that would pour in and harden instead
> of being troweled in and uneven.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Eric, would it possible to get a link to a photo of your panel installation? 
Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4; 1085 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596; 
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Eric Frank 
Sent: Wed, Nov 28, 2018 11:53 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

Hi  Lee,

There is a more involved solution to this than Don Kern suggested, although he 
is correct that the problem is almost certainly plugged up limber holes.  To 
install a boarding ladder on the stern transom of Cats Paw, I needed to get 
even more access to that area than you need to clean out the limber holes.  I 
installed a fairly large panel in the back wall of the cockpit, giving direct 
access to this area.  From standard suppliers, these panels are fairly 
expensive, but I found one on eBay for less than $100.  It hinges up and the 
hinges are stiff enough to hold it open.  It has a rubber seal around the 
circumference that seems to seal it very well.  I cut a rectangular opening in 
the cockpit wall and installed the panel. Tested for leaks by blasting water at 
it when on the hard, and could detect no leaks. And if the cockpit should fill 
with water in a knockdown (has never happened to me yet, and hope it never 
will!) the pressure of that water would help seal the panel rather than force 
it open.  So far (now on 3 years) no problems, and it has been very useful in 
getting access to this area for a number of reasons.  If you are interested in 
pursuing this, I can get the dimensions this weekend and send them to you, 
along with trying to track down the source.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Tim:

The strut on my boat (42 Custom) was not mounted as securely as one would 
expect (no backing plate, for instance), and a prior owner had done an 
inadequate job on a previous repair.  Probably the same PO that used bondo to 
level the limber holes – but I digress.  Worse yet, the damaged fiberglass had 
allowed water to enter balsa coring, causing even more harm.  I had it 
professionally repaired.  My guru cut out the inner skin all around the strut 
area, filled it with West System and glass (no coring) both to strengthen and 
to seal off the area from balsa core, repaired the outer skin damage and 
faired, and remounted the strut -- this time using a backing plate.  I have not 
had any issues since.

One of the problems with the Martec folding prop is that it will sometimes 
open half-way (one blade), which shakes the hell out of the boat.  I went to a 
Flex-o-Fold prop in part for this reason.  As I’m sure you know, the solution 
is to go to neutral, then reverse, then back into forward.  The excessive 
shaking when this occurs (and the occasional dock line grab) cannot be good for 
the strut, so it should be solidly mounted.

On the hull flex question, the amount of deflection likely depends on where 
the pads are located.  I would think that there isn’t much change near the 
strut.  You must repair it on the hard in any event, so I suggest getting it as 
close as possible to it’s present location.  The idea of remounting it with the 
shaft in place sounds right to me.


From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Tim Rutherford 
Subject: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 
36-1 KCB

Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally the 
fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it doesn't 
feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for bottom job 
and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on how best to 
proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the fairing.


>From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and 
>bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with a 
>close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is required 
>is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and replace, seal, 
>and re-fair.

My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is necessary 
i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft slides easily 
through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log and seal, and 
visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I can proceed with 
the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more time than money, so 
DIY work is preferred.


2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan final 
engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands cause strut 
alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an independent Yanmar 
mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.


2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method of 
application?


The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of clearance 
to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at Martec for 
refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar mounts. While 
under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound like rubber 
marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop speed. It seemed 
like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I purchased the boat in 
June '17, and after about a hundred hours of motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS 
that is getting a new maintenance kit, and of course, the strut a new cutlass 
bearing.

Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something similar. 
All help is appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL

tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text



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Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally
the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it
doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for
bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on
how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the
fairing.

>From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and
bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with
a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is
required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and
replace, seal, and re-fair.

My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft
slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log
and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I
can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more
time than money, so DIY work is preferred.

2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan
final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands
cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an
independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.

2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method
of application?

The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of
clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at
Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar
mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound
like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop
speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I
purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of
motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit,
and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing.

Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something
similar. All help is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
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Stus-List Limber hole issue

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:
While on the topic of unwanted water accumulation, I have a couple limber 
holes that were not drilled level with the hull (about 1/2” too high) and, as a 
result, a certain amount water must accumulate before the area drains.  The 
result is that these areas are always wet.  I suppose I could open up the 
limber holes, but they appear to be tubes glassed in place (metal or 
fiberglass, which is painted).  A prior owner placed bondo or something on the 
hull to eliminate the gap below the limber hole but did not do a very good job. 
 I am thinking about replacing the bondo with another leveling material – 
something that would pour in and harden instead of being troweled in and uneven.
Any thoughts? 


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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

The drill bit set is from Norseman. You can get them off Amazon.

On Tue, Nov 27, 2018, 10:25 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have a sweet C&C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the
> stern of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.
> It’s not for drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull
> the cap for the vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.
> OK I live in Seattle and it’s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much
> rain comes through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the
> cockpit?  I only looked because my bilge pump was going off for about 20
> sec. every 20 min.  Water was trickling down below the engine, and s couple
> years ago, I tossed the boat really well, and we flushed out the
> construction insulation crumbs under the icebox into the pots and pans
> under the stove - that was a mess and another story.  Anyway, does anyone
> else find water in the stern behind the helm position?  Have you looked
> recently?
>
> On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good
> quality drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the
> usual rusting metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make or link?
>
> Thanks, Lee
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

My friend's 35 Mk.1 has a panel that can be removed at the foot of the
Quarter Berth that provides some access to this area for a smaller person.
Does the Mk.2 have one?  You might want to make an access there?

Ken H.

On Wed, 28 Nov 2018 at 10:29, Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Lee,
>
> You should not be gathering water in that area. Since you are the limber
> holes (a drain hole through a boat frame, designed to prevent water from
> accumulating against one side of the frame, and allowing it to drain
> toward the bilge (Wikipedia)) is blocked. You should have a series of
> limber holes down the athwartship and longitudinal frames from the stern
> area to the bilge in each of the lowest corners.  I would recommend that
> you pull the aft cover that your vents are mounted on and reach down
> with a unbent wire coat hanger with short right angle bend at the bottom
> and try to poke out any debris that is clogging the holes. I have found
> that this is one very unaccessible area to try to get to without pulling
> the fuel tank.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Don Kern
> Fireball, 12708
> C&C 35 MkII
> Bristol, RI
>
> On 11/27/2018 10:24 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List wrote:
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have a sweet C&C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the
> stern of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.
> It’s not for drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull
> the cap for the vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.
> OK I live in Seattle and it’s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much
> rain comes through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the
> cockpit?  I only looked because my bilge pump was going off for about 20
> sec. every 20 min.  Water was trickling down below the engine, and s couple
> years ago, I tossed the boat really well, and we flushed out the
> construction insulation crumbs under the icebox into the pots and pans
> under the stove - that was a mess and another story.  Anyway, does anyone
> else find water in the stern behind the helm position?  Have you looked
> recently?
> >
> > On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good
> quality drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the
> usual rusting metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make or link?
> >
> > Thanks, Lee
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Lee,

You should not be gathering water in that area. Since you are the limber 
holes (a drain hole through a boat frame, designed to prevent water from 
accumulating against one side of the frame, and allowing it to drain 
toward the bilge (Wikipedia)) is blocked. You should have a series of 
limber holes down the athwartship and longitudinal frames from the stern 
area to the bilge in each of the lowest corners.  I would recommend that 
you pull the aft cover that your vents are mounted on and reach down 
with a unbent wire coat hanger with short right angle bend at the bottom 
and try to poke out any debris that is clogging the holes. I have found 
that this is one very unaccessible area to try to get to without pulling 
the fuel tank.


Hope this helps.

Don Kern
Fireball, 12708
C&C 35 MkII
Bristol, RI

On 11/27/2018 10:24 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All,

I have a sweet C&C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the stern 
of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.  It’s not for 
drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull the cap for the vent I 
can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.  OK I live in Seattle and it’s 
been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much rain comes through a few screw holes 
on the stern plate behind the cockpit?  I only looked because my bilge pump was 
going off for about 20 sec. every 20 min.  Water was trickling down below the 
engine, and s couple years ago, I tossed the boat really well, and we flushed out 
the construction insulation crumbs under the icebox into the pots and pans under 
the stove - that was a mess and another story.  Anyway, does anyone else find water 
in the stern behind the helm position?  Have you looked recently?

On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good quality 
drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the usual rusting 
metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make or link?

Thanks, Lee


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray