Re: Stus-List Hull products

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Try toilet bowl cleaner that has 20 percent hydrochloric acid or try dilute
like 1 to 10 concentrated muriatic  acid or try oxalic acid if you can find
it.  Least harnful and will do the trick but why botther. No one will know
or notice but you

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 3:30 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Once you get it off, Try RejeX Polish.
> My buddy has been through the ICW multiple times and no Mustache!
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien
> Sadler via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 12:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Brien Sadler
> Subject: Stus-List Hull products
>
> I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain
> from my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien Sadler
> TAZ
> 1987 C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK I 170 Genoa

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

No not me i got one new. I dont use it or need it just stuff i treasure and
store. Why? I am nuts

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 11:47 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I lost track of an email thread – was someone interested in a 170 genoa
> for a 35 MK I?
>
> Good condition and free except shipping.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Serious good sails if u  think u need them. The 35 C designs dont need
nuch to mske em go fast; i mean real good. A damn good hull design by olde
George. Thank you George. Many times over. Ok

On Thu, Dec 13, 2018 at 12:18 PM Douglas Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Luke,
> Congratulations on your new boat. The 35-III is a great boat. I day sailed
> and raced my 35 for five years and loved every minute I was on the water. I
> used the inboard genoa track you mentioned in for the #1 in light air to
> point a little higher. I had a second lead I just snapped on the sail,
> and used my secondary winch.
> I recently purchased a C 41, so I sold my 35. Between the new owner and
> a few other 35-III owners I sold most of my sail inventory. If your
> interested, I still have a all most new (used about 6 times) symmetrical
> spinnaker for sale. Contact me at doug.allard...@gmail.com  if your
> interested I'm in Detroit.
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> C 35 III
> "BULLET"
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Luke
> Wolbrink via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 12, 2018 12:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Luke Wolbrink
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track
>
> Hello All,
>
> I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming
> spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the
> 'upper' genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the
> cockpit coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet
> leads with the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My
> question is how do you transition from using a block here do the lower main
> track when you fall off to a reach or downwind?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Luke wolbrink
> 1985 C 35-3 Mr. JJ
> Chicago, IL
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

The only High Moisture readings on my 1982 37 Survey  was the baby track ? just 
in front of mast, and a small area around pedestal (driver area) which 
underfoot  foot seem solid as a rock  but had slight elevated moisture 
readings. The surveyor recommended core removal and repair at some point down 
the road IF it ever get worse. Aside from the window haze ( which don’t leak at 
all) I have no leaks and 0 other problems with this boat so super happy with 
her and very excited for spring this year ! which should start early March 

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 7:51:48 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

Rob I'm really glad you chimed in!  The only conflict to your statement that 
I've experienced is the port and stbd hand rails on the cabin top.  I've 
replaced them and know for a fact that the deck in that area Is cored.   As 
evidenced by the exact placement on numerous other boats these handrails are 
original equipment.  Are you saying that the hand rails are not major equipment 
or that they weren't part of the plan?  No offense but either or both of these 
answers seems like a bit of an oversight.

Rob you also mentioned the steering pedestal.  Could you clarify your statement 
about whether or not coring material is present?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 5:10 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Bob,
There was no core anywhere on the deck if that part was on the original deck 
plan from the design office.
I can't remember if that track was on the original deck plan.  So, it will 
depend on that particular design's history. But, for sure the intent is/was 
that all serious deck fittings had no core, or had plywood core (like under the 
pedestal) . . . . .
Rob Ball.C 34

On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer 
mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>> wrote:

Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is 
installed?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: 
dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rob I'm really glad you chimed in!  The only conflict to your statement
that I've experienced is the port and stbd hand rails on the cabin top.
I've replaced them and know for a fact that the deck in that area Is cored.
  As evidenced by the exact placement on numerous other boats these
handrails are original equipment.  Are you saying that the hand rails are
not major equipment or that they weren't part of the plan?  No offense but
either or both of these answers seems like a bit of an oversight.

Rob you also mentioned the steering pedestal.  Could you clarify your
statement about whether or not coring material is present?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 5:10 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List  Bob,
> There was no core anywhere on the deck if that part was on the original
> deck plan from the design office.
> I can't remember if that track was on the original deck plan.  So, it will
> depend on that particular design's history. But, for sure the intent is/was
> that all serious deck fittings had no core, or had plywood core (like under
> the pedestal) . . . . .
> Rob Ball.C 34
>
> On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
>
> Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is
> installed?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Rob:

Have you checked your 34?  As I indicated earlier, mine was cored under the 
genny track, which looked like original equipment (Merriman or something).  I 
know this because I drilled and filled lots of holes when I re-bed the track.  
My 34 was early in the production run (the old style oval windows, not the 
later “go fast” windows), so perhaps changes were made?

From: Rob Ball via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 5:09 PM
To: Robert Boyer 
Cc: Rob Ball ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

Bob,
There was no core anywhere on the deck if that part was on the original deck 
plan from the design office.
I can't remember if that track was on the original deck plan.  So, it will 
depend on that particular design's history. But, for sure the intent is/was 
that all serious deck fittings had no core, or had plywood core (like under the 
pedestal) . . . . . 
Rob Ball.C 34

On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer  wrote:


  Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is 
installed? 

  Bob


  Bob Boyer 
  s/v Rainy Days
  C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
  (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com



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Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Bob,
There was no core anywhere on the deck if that part was on the original deck 
plan from the design office.
I can't remember if that track was on the original deck plan.  So, it will 
depend on that particular design's history. But, for sure the intent is/was 
that all serious deck fittings had no core, or had plywood core (like under the 
pedestal) . . . . .
Rob Ball.C 34

On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer 
mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>> wrote:

Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is 
installed?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Once you get it off, Try RejeX Polish.
My buddy has been through the ICW multiple times and no Mustache! 

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien Sadler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler
Subject: Stus-List Hull products

I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain from my 
water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.

Thanks,

Brien Sadler
TAZ
1987 C 35-3

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

I have used "On and Off" with great success.  Get the gel version, it's
easier.  It was recommended to me by my painter who does a fantastic job.
Easy to apply and removes the stain in one go.

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 9:59 AM Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain
> from my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien Sadler
> TAZ
> 1987 C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I can tell you definitively that my 1978 C 34 had balsa core under the genny 
track.  I suspect that the comparable 36 does (same vintage; same look), and I 
will let you know about my 42 when I find out.  The 42 was not a production 
boat, however. 

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 12:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

I meant “balsa core”...


Bob Boyer 
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is 
installed? 

  Bob


  Bob Boyer 
  s/v Rainy Days
  C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
  (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com

  On Dec 14, 2018, at 9:55 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Matthew,  

I would have overdrilled and filled but once I got the track off I was able 
to prove to myself that there was NO core.  That alone shortened and simplified 
the job greatly.

I did the cabin top handrails and found that there was core material there. 
 I over drilled a d filled.

I did the mast collar and expected to find core material but was pleasantly 
surprised to find solid glass.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 



On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 9:50 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  If you really want a project, you can do what I did on my 34 and am about 
to 
  do on my 42.  When the genny track is removed for re-bedding, oversize 
drill 
  each of the holes (or do the bent nail trick) and seal off the holes with 
  West System or other epoxy before re-installing the track.

  -Original Message- 
  From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 9:07 AM
  To: CNC List
  Cc: Len Mitchell
  Subject: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

  Josh, I recently checked our jib tracks and they were watertight however 
the 
  main traveller needed rebedding. If you haven't checked yours it may be 
  time. The butyl tape is old enough that it's drying out a where it was 
put 
  on thinly. It may be wise to just re bed our tracks anyway. Thanks for 
your 
  description. I have a few months to wait until the water thaws!
  Len Mitchell
  1989 37+
  Crazy Legs
  Midland On

  Sent from my mobile device.
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and 
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Matthew Maynard via CnC-List]

Awesome from your dollar store

Matthew Maynard
Claymore
1980 C 32

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 1:35 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Lysol toilet bowl cleaner is cheap and works amazingly well.
>
> Chris Graham
> Papillon
> 1978 C 26
>
> On Friday, December 14, 2018, 12:59:52 PM EST, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain
> from my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien Sadler
> TAZ
> 1987 C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Matthew Maynard
matthew.g.mayn...@gmail.com
519-276-9025
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh, I think you meant FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover)...

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Dec 14, 2018, at 1:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Davis makes a gel called FRS.  Great stuff.  If it doesn't work turn to the 
> big guns - Mary-Kate On
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 12:59 PM Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain from 
>> my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Brien Sadler
>> TAZ
>> 1987 C 35-3
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 Lysol toilet bowl cleaner is cheap and works amazingly well. 
Chris GrahamPapillon1978 C 26
On Friday, December 14, 2018, 12:59:52 PM EST, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain from my 
water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.

Thanks,

Brien Sadler
TAZ
1987 C 35-3

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Davis makes a gel called FRS.  Great stuff.  If it doesn't work turn to the
big guns - Mary-Kate On

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 12:59 PM Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain
> from my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien Sadler
> TAZ
> 1987 C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Hull products

[Brien Sadler via CnC-List]

I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain from my 
water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.

Thanks,

Brien Sadler
TAZ
1987 C 35-3

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I meant “balsa core”...

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is 
> installed?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
>> On Dec 14, 2018, at 9:55 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Matthew, 
>> 
>> I would have overdrilled and filled but once I got the track off I was able 
>> to prove to myself that there was NO core.  That alone shortened and 
>> simplified the job greatly.
>> 
>> I did the cabin top handrails and found that there was core material there.  
>> I over drilled a d filled.
>> 
>> I did the mast collar and expected to find core material but was pleasantly 
>> surprised to find solid glass.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 9:50 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> If you really want a project, you can do what I did on my 34 and am about 
>>> to 
>>> do on my 42.  When the genny track is removed for re-bedding, oversize 
>>> drill 
>>> each of the holes (or do the bent nail trick) and seal off the holes with 
>>> West System or other epoxy before re-installing the track.
>>> 
>>> -Original Message- 
>>> From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 9:07 AM
>>> To: CNC List
>>> Cc: Len Mitchell
>>> Subject: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks
>>> 
>>> Josh, I recently checked our jib tracks and they were watertight however 
>>> the 
>>> main traveller needed rebedding. If you haven't checked yours it may be 
>>> time. The butyl tape is old enough that it's drying out a where it was put 
>>> on thinly. It may be wise to just re bed our tracks anyway. Thanks for your 
>>> description. I have a few months to wait until the water thaws!
>>> Len Mitchell
>>> 1989 37+
>>> Crazy Legs
>>> Midland On
>>> 
>>> Sent from my mobile device.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Then you need a major blizzard and a bottle of scotch.

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 11:48 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> that's my issue, they're all locked...
> On 12/14/2018 11:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Danny,
>
> They need to be open to reset them.  Turn the hasp 180 degrees, press,
> insert a paper clip into the little hole and pick a new combo.
>
> On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 7:01 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know how to reset the sesamee locks.  I have 3 that I don't
>> know the combination of and would love to use them!
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Danny
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: "Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List" 
>> Date: 12/13/18 4:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "Neil E. Andersen" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks
>>
>> Just as important, when you are done, reset the combination to something
>> far from the actual combo (not just the 1st or last digit) and something
>> you will remember to see if the lock has been open.  I always re-set my
>> combo’s to a specific value and can often tell if someone has been aboard.
>>
>>
>>
>> As a broker, I am seeing a number of boats left unlocked after marinas
>> have pulled the boats out of the water.
>>
>>
>>
>> Neil Andersen
>>
>> 1982 C 32
>>
>> FoxFire
>>
>> Rock Hall, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Della
>> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 3:18 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Combination padlocks
>>
>>
>>
>> If you don’t want your combo to be well known to anyone who ever worked
>> on boats, don’t use 19XX. I used to have about 40 combinations on file and
>> about 35 of them were 19XX.
>>
>> My old Arbus (Abus?) is doing OK after many years.
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>
>> *Coquina*
>>
>> *C 35 MK I*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 2:52 PM
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Combination padlocks
>>
>>
>>
>> First, a general note.  When I had my marine repair business, I
>> recommended to my clients that they have a combination lock for access to
>> the boat.  Doesn't do much good if the boat is sinking and folks can't get
>> into your boat because the key is with you miles away.  A phone call to get
>> the combo granting entry to fix the problem can save your boat.
>>
>>
>>
>> OK, now for my question.  I was looking at buying a couple more 4 digit
>> combination locks.  I've long been a fan of the Sesamee K0436 4 digit
>> combination locks.  I have several on Touche'.  They are 20+ years old and
>> work great.  The Abus 4 digit combo locks are OK also.
>>
>>
>>
>> The Master lock version is OK except the dials spin way too easily.  You
>> have to hold the numbers that you just set to keep them in place while you
>> set the next number.  It's irritating.
>>
>>
>>
>> However, as I was reading reviews on the Sesamee and Abus brands, I seems
>> like both Sesamee and Abus may have cheapened their locks.  Has any lister
>> purchased a Sesamee in the last couple years that can shed light on the
>> current manufacturing quality?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

that's my issue, they're all locked...

On 12/14/2018 11:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Danny,

They need to be open to reset them.  Turn the hasp 180 degrees, press, 
insert a paper clip into the little hole and pick a new combo.


On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 7:01 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Does anyone know how to reset the sesamee locks.  I have 3 that I
don't know the combination of and would love to use them!



Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: "Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 12/13/18 4:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Neil E. Andersen" mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

Just as important, when you are done, reset the combination to
something far from the actual combo (not just the 1^st or last
digit) and something you will remember to see if the lock has been
open.  I always re-set my combo’s to a specific value and can
often tell if someone has been aboard.

As a broker, I am seeing a number of boats left unlocked after
marinas have pulled the boats out of the water.

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32

FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

*From:*CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> *On Behalf Of *Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 3:18 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
*Subject:* Stus-List Combination padlocks

If you don’t want your combo to be well known to anyone who ever
worked on boats, don’t use 19XX. I used to have about 40
combinations on file and about 35 of them were 19XX.

My old Arbus (Abus?) is doing OK after many years.

*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*/C 35 MK I/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 2:52 PM
*To:* CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Combination padlocks

First, a general note.  When I had my marine repair business, I
recommended to my clients that they have a combination lock for
access to the boat.  Doesn't do much good if the boat is sinking
and folks can't get into your boat because the key is with you
miles away.  A phone call to get the combo granting entry to fix
the problem can save your boat.

OK, now for my question.  I was looking at buying a couple more 4
digit combination locks.  I've long been a fan of the Sesamee
K0436 4 digit combination locks.  I have several on Touche'. They
are 20+ years old and work great.  The Abus 4 digit combo locks
are OK also.

The Master lock version is OK except the dials spin way too
easily.  You have to hold the numbers that you just set to keep
them in place while you set the next number.  It's irritating.

However, as I was reading reviews on the Sesamee and Abus brands,
I seems like both Sesamee and Abus may have cheapened their
locks.  Has any lister purchased a Sesamee in the last couple
years that can shed light on the current manufacturing quality?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



--
Joel
301 541 8551

___

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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is 
installed?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Dec 14, 2018, at 9:55 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Matthew, 
> 
> I would have overdrilled and filled but once I got the track off I was able 
> to prove to myself that there was NO core.  That alone shortened and 
> simplified the job greatly.
> 
> I did the cabin top handrails and found that there was core material there.  
> I over drilled a d filled.
> 
> I did the mast collar and expected to find core material but was pleasantly 
> surprised to find solid glass.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 9:50 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> If you really want a project, you can do what I did on my 34 and am about to 
>> do on my 42.  When the genny track is removed for re-bedding, oversize drill 
>> each of the holes (or do the bent nail trick) and seal off the holes with 
>> West System or other epoxy before re-installing the track.
>> 
>> -Original Message- 
>> From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 9:07 AM
>> To: CNC List
>> Cc: Len Mitchell
>> Subject: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks
>> 
>> Josh, I recently checked our jib tracks and they were watertight however the 
>> main traveller needed rebedding. If you haven't checked yours it may be 
>> time. The butyl tape is old enough that it's drying out a where it was put 
>> on thinly. It may be wise to just re bed our tracks anyway. Thanks for your 
>> description. I have a few months to wait until the water thaws!
>> Len Mitchell
>> 1989 37+
>> Crazy Legs
>> Midland On
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

They need to be open to reset them.  Turn the hasp 180 degrees, press,
insert a paper clip into the little hole and pick a new combo.

On Fri, Dec 14, 2018 at 7:01 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know how to reset the sesamee locks.  I have 3 that I don't
> know the combination of and would love to use them!
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>  Original message 
> From: "Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List" 
> Date: 12/13/18 4:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Neil E. Andersen" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks
>
> Just as important, when you are done, reset the combination to something
> far from the actual combo (not just the 1st or last digit) and something
> you will remember to see if the lock has been open.  I always re-set my
> combo’s to a specific value and can often tell if someone has been aboard.
>
>
>
> As a broker, I am seeing a number of boats left unlocked after marinas
> have pulled the boats out of the water.
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen
>
> 1982 C 32
>
> FoxFire
>
> Rock Hall, MD
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 3:18 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Combination padlocks
>
>
>
> If you don’t want your combo to be well known to anyone who ever worked on
> boats, don’t use 19XX. I used to have about 40 combinations on file and
> about 35 of them were 19XX.
>
> My old Arbus (Abus?) is doing OK after many years.
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
> *C 35 MK I*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 2:52 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Combination padlocks
>
>
>
> First, a general note.  When I had my marine repair business, I
> recommended to my clients that they have a combination lock for access to
> the boat.  Doesn't do much good if the boat is sinking and folks can't get
> into your boat because the key is with you miles away.  A phone call to get
> the combo granting entry to fix the problem can save your boat.
>
>
>
> OK, now for my question.  I was looking at buying a couple more 4 digit
> combination locks.  I've long been a fan of the Sesamee K0436 4 digit
> combination locks.  I have several on Touche'.  They are 20+ years old and
> work great.  The Abus 4 digit combo locks are OK also.
>
>
>
> The Master lock version is OK except the dials spin way too easily.  You
> have to hold the numbers that you just set to keep them in place while you
> set the next number.  It's irritating.
>
>
>
> However, as I was reading reviews on the Sesamee and Abus brands, I seems
> like both Sesamee and Abus may have cheapened their locks.  Has any lister
> purchased a Sesamee in the last couple years that can shed light on the
> current manufacturing quality?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 35 MK I 170 Genoa

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I lost track of an email thread – was someone interested in a 170 genoa for a 
35 MK I?
Good condition and free except shipping.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Josh:

I guess C wised up about coring in this area by 1989.  I was going uphill 
with a No. 3 in about 20 true last year, and the creaking sounds from the track 
area near the lead were a bit unnerving.  Thus, the project is now on my list.  
I will be pleasantly surprised if there’s no coring.

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

Matthew,  

I would have overdrilled and filled but once I got the track off I was able to 
prove to myself that there was NO core.  That alone shortened and simplified 
the job greatly.

I did the cabin top handrails and found that there was core material there.  I 
over drilled a d filled.

I did the mast collar and expected to find core material but was pleasantly 
surprised to find solid glass.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Preventing the seizure is easy with tef-gel, anti-seize, graphite, or any
general purpose lubricant.  It's recognizing the risk and taking steps to
prevent it that is the trick.  I'm a far bigger fan of nylocks than lock
washers.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Dec 13, 2018, 11:33 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to use nylon lock nuts for almost everything – until I had a couple
> big ones seize up.  I’m much more selective these days.
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 11:21 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks
>
> I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow.  I never
> thought I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close.  If I
> had pulled the port track I would have been in trouble.   I couldn't
> understand exactly why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but
> decided not to chance it by changing things up.  I did cut 3 tricky ones
> shorter.  The OEM washers seemed small so I upsized to that which would
> just fit.  And instead of standard nuts and lock washers I changed to
> nylocks.
>
> Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly soluble
> in isopropyl alcohol.  I was not meticulous in removing all the residue
> since butyl sticks to everything.  A 3/4" butyl would have probably filled
> the track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up
> against the machine screws, then down the other side.  It overlapped making
> a really nice bead down the center.
>
> In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient.  Since getting the
> washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game
> "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver.  I could
> quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next
> stud.  Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket.
> Since so much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to
> tighten the nuts.   I started with the first nut and all seemed well except
> that once I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was
> still loose in the hole.  I tried to loosen it but no luck.  I've
> experienced galling in the past, particularly with nylocks.  I should
> have expected and prevented it.  I didn't expect it on the first screw and
> chalked it up to having used the drill.  I moved on with only hand tools
> but soon had a second nut seize.  It was at this point I decided to remove
> all of the nuts that had been preped to capture the washers and add a dab
> of tef-gel to the nut.  After this the rest of the screws went smoothly and
> torqued to 10ft-lbs.
>
> The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem.  I found that I could push them
> out about and inch.  This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips.  With
> one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive rachet
> it was still a pretty good effort getting them to break.  I was able to
> withdraw them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert.  Since the track is
> hollow, I tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the screw
> (about 1/2" from the head).  Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or near
> wooden cabinets, and I have very easy access.  If leaks occur it will be
> easy to detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy.
>
> I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one
> is replaced and one is simply tightened.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>> Alright 37/40 owners,
>>
>> Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads?  We
>> detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd
>> closet and cabinet).  I was initially concerned that the deck area might be
>> cored and that leakage was going to mean rot.
>>
>> I removed some of the bolts this afternoon.  Most of the nuts weren't
>> even tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate.  The first
>> difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud.  Is seems
>> that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long.  I suspect that this was
>> to help engage each bolt and curve the track.  Anyone have other theories
>> for the extra length?
>>
>> I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find
>> that the deck appears to be solid glass.  I was disappointed to find that
>> at least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 screws are obstructed by the
>> headliner.  2 are in cabinets where cutting out headliner material will be
>> irrelevant.  1 is against the aft bulkhead on the forward side.
>>
>> I believe that the original bedding material was 4200 or 5200.  It is
>> already proving difficult to unseat the aft section of track where I've
>> removed the 

Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bob,

Bed-it butyl tape.  1/2" wide in a 3/4" channel created a nice central bead
and provided a little thickened part around each screw.  It also held the
screws in place while flipping and orienting the track.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 8:05 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh:
>
> Maybe I missed it but what did you use to seal the threads of the new
> bolts?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> On Dec 13, 2018, at 11:32 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I used to use nylon lock nuts for almost everything – until I had a couple
> big ones seize up.  I’m much more selective these days.
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2018 11:21 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks
>
> I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow.  I never
> thought I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close.  If I
> had pulled the port track I would have been in trouble.   I couldn't
> understand exactly why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but
> decided not to chance it by changing things up.  I did cut 3 tricky ones
> shorter.  The OEM washers seemed small so I upsized to that which would
> just fit.  And instead of standard nuts and lock washers I changed to
> nylocks.
>
> Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly soluble
> in isopropyl alcohol.  I was not meticulous in removing all the residue
> since butyl sticks to everything.  A 3/4" butyl would have probably filled
> the track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up
> against the machine screws, then down the other side.  It overlapped making
> a really nice bead down the center.
>
> In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient.  Since getting the
> washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game
> "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver.  I could
> quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next
> stud.  Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket.
> Since so much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to
> tighten the nuts.   I started with the first nut and all seemed well except
> that once I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was
> still loose in the hole.  I tried to loosen it but no luck.  I've
> experienced galling in the past, particularly with nylocks.  I should
> have expected and prevented it.  I didn't expect it on the first screw and
> chalked it up to having used the drill.  I moved on with only hand tools
> but soon had a second nut seize.  It was at this point I decided to remove
> all of the nuts that had been preped to capture the washers and add a dab
> of tef-gel to the nut.  After this the rest of the screws went smoothly and
> torqued to 10ft-lbs.
>
> The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem.  I found that I could push them
> out about and inch.  This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips.  With
> one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive rachet
> it was still a pretty good effort getting them to break.  I was able to
> withdraw them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert.  Since the track is
> hollow, I tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the screw
> (about 1/2" from the head).  Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or near
> wooden cabinets, and I have very easy access.  If leaks occur it will be
> easy to detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy.
>
> I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one
> is replaced and one is simply tightened.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>> Alright 37/40 owners,
>>
>> Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads?  We
>> detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd
>> closet and cabinet).  I was initially concerned that the deck area might be
>> cored and that leakage was going to mean rot.
>>
>> I removed some of the bolts this afternoon.  Most of the nuts weren't
>> even tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate.  The first
>> difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud.  Is seems
>> that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long.  I suspect that this was
>> to help engage each bolt and curve the track.  Anyone have other theories
>> for the extra length?
>>
>> I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find
>> that the deck appears to be solid glass.  I was disappointed to find that
>> at least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 

Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Matthew,

I would have overdrilled and filled but once I got the track off I was able
to prove to myself that there was NO core.  That alone shortened and
simplified the job greatly.

I did the cabin top handrails and found that there was core material
there.  I over drilled a d filled.

I did the mast collar and expected to find core material but was pleasantly
surprised to find solid glass.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 9:50 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you really want a project, you can do what I did on my 34 and am about
> to
> do on my 42.  When the genny track is removed for re-bedding, oversize
> drill
> each of the holes (or do the bent nail trick) and seal off the holes with
> West System or other epoxy before re-installing the track.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 9:07 AM
> To: CNC List
> Cc: Len Mitchell
> Subject: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks
>
> Josh, I recently checked our jib tracks and they were watertight however
> the
> main traveller needed rebedding. If you haven't checked yours it may be
> time. The butyl tape is old enough that it's drying out a where it was put
> on thinly. It may be wise to just re bed our tracks anyway. Thanks for
> your
> description. I have a few months to wait until the water thaws!
> Len Mitchell
> 1989 37+
> Crazy Legs
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

If you really want a project, you can do what I did on my 34 and am about to 
do on my 42.  When the genny track is removed for re-bedding, oversize drill 
each of the holes (or do the bent nail trick) and seal off the holes with 
West System or other epoxy before re-installing the track.


-Original Message- 
From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 9:07 AM
To: CNC List
Cc: Len Mitchell
Subject: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

Josh, I recently checked our jib tracks and they were watertight however the 
main traveller needed rebedding. If you haven't checked yours it may be 
time. The butyl tape is old enough that it's drying out a where it was put 
on thinly. It may be wise to just re bed our tracks anyway. Thanks for your 
description. I have a few months to wait until the water thaws!

Len Mitchell
1989 37+
Crazy Legs
Midland On

Sent from my mobile device.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Josh, I recently checked our jib tracks and they were watertight however the 
main traveller needed rebedding. If you haven't checked yours it may be time. 
The butyl tape is old enough that it's drying out a where it was put on thinly. 
It may be wise to just re bed our tracks anyway. Thanks for your description. I 
have a few months to wait until the water thaws! 
Len Mitchell
1989 37+
Crazy Legs
Midland On

Sent from my mobile device. 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh:

Maybe I missed it but what did you use to seal the threads of the new bolts?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Dec 13, 2018, at 11:32 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I used to use nylon lock nuts for almost everything – until I had a couple 
> big ones seize up.  I’m much more selective these days.
>  
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 11:21 PM
> To: C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks
>  
> I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow.  I never thought 
> I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close.  If I had pulled 
> the port track I would have been in trouble.   I couldn't understand exactly 
> why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but decided not to chance it 
> by changing things up.  I did cut 3 tricky ones shorter.  The OEM washers 
> seemed small so I upsized to that which would just fit.  And instead of 
> standard nuts and lock washers I changed to nylocks.
>  
> Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly soluble in 
> isopropyl alcohol.  I was not meticulous in removing all the residue since 
> butyl sticks to everything.  A 3/4" butyl would have probably filled the 
> track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up against the 
> machine screws, then down the other side.  It overlapped making a really nice 
> bead down the center.
>  
> In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient.  Since getting the 
> washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game 
> "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver.  I could 
> quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next stud.  
> Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket.  Since so 
> much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to tighten 
> the nuts.   I started with the first nut and all seemed well except that once 
> I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was still loose 
> in the hole.  I tried to loosen it but no luck.  I've experienced galling in 
> the past, particularly with nylocks.  I should have expected and prevented 
> it.  I didn't expect it on the first screw and chalked it up to having used 
> the drill.  I moved on with only hand tools but soon had a second nut seize.  
> It was at this point I decided to remove all of the nuts that had been preped 
> to capture the washers and add a dab of tef-gel to the nut.  After this the 
> rest of the screws went smoothly and torqued to 10ft-lbs.
> 
> The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem.  I found that I could push them 
> out about and inch.  This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips.  With 
> one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive rachet it 
> was still a pretty good effort getting them to break.  I was able to withdraw 
> them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert.  Since the track is hollow, I 
> tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the screw (about 1/2" 
> from the head).  Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or near wooden 
> cabinets, and I have very easy access.  If leaks occur it will be easy to 
> detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy.
> 
> I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one is 
> replaced and one is simply tightened.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
>  
>> On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> Alright 37/40 owners,
>>  
>> Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads?  We 
>> detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd 
>> closet and cabinet).  I was initially concerned that the deck area might be 
>> cored and that leakage was going to mean rot.
>>  
>> I removed some of the bolts this afternoon.  Most of the nuts weren't even 
>> tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate.  The first 
>> difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud.  Is seems 
>> that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long.  I suspect that this was 
>> to help engage each bolt and curve the track.  Anyone have other theories 
>> for the extra length? 
>> 
>> I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find that 
>> the deck appears to be solid glass.  I was disappointed to find that at 
>> least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 screws are obstructed by the 
>> headliner.  2 are in cabinets where cutting out headliner material will be 
>> irrelevant.  1 is against the aft bulkhead on the forward side.
>>  
>> I believe that the original bedding material was 4200 or 5200.  It is 
>> already proving difficult to unseat the aft section of track where I've 
>> removed the bolts.  

Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Does anyone know how to reset the sesamee locks.  I have 3 that I don't know 
the combination of and would love to use them! 


Thanks, Danny
 Original message From: "Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List" 
 Date: 12/13/18  4:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Neil E. Andersen"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks 
Just as important, when you are done, reset the combination to something far 
from the actual combo (not just the 1st or last digit) and something you will 
remember to see if the lock has been open.  I always re-set my combo’s to a 
specific value and can often tell if someone has been aboard. As a broker, I am 
seeing a number of boats left unlocked after marinas have pulled the boats out 
of the water. Neil Andersen1982 C 32FoxFireRock Hall, MD From: CnC-List 
 On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 3:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Combination padlocks If you don’t want your combo to be well 
known to anyone who ever worked on boats, don’t use 19XX. I used to have about 
40 combinations on file and about 35 of them were 19XX.My old Arbus (Abus?) is 
doing OK after many years.Joe Della BarbaCoquinaC 35 MK I   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 2:52 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Combination padlocks First, a general note.  When 
I had my marine repair business, I recommended to my clients that they have a 
combination lock for access to the boat.  Doesn't do much good if the boat is 
sinking and folks can't get into your boat because the key is with you miles 
away.  A phone call to get the combo granting entry to fix the problem can save 
your boat. OK, now for my question.  I was looking at buying a couple more 4 
digit combination locks.  I've long been a fan of the Sesamee K0436 4 digit 
combination locks.  I have several on Touche'.  They are 20+ years old and work 
great.  The Abus 4 digit combo locks are OK also. The Master lock version is OK 
except the dials spin way too easily.  You have to hold the numbers that you 
just set to keep them in place while you set the next number.  It's irritating. 
 However, as I was reading reviews on the Sesamee and Abus brands, I seems like 
both Sesamee and Abus may have cheapened their locks.  Has any lister purchased 
a Sesamee in the last couple years that can shed light on the current 
manufacturing quality? Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray