Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks
It's been raining for 3 days now and I checked both the port and stbd tracks and their machine screws. There is no evidence of leakage. When I get time I'll probably still rebed the port track but in the foreseeable future it appears that I fixed the leaks on both sides. Port side simply by retorquing the screws and stbd side by rebedding. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Dec 13, 2018, 11:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow. I never > thought I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close. If I > had pulled the port track I would have been in trouble. I couldn't > understand exactly why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but > decided not to chance it by changing things up. I did cut 3 tricky ones > shorter. The OEM washers seemed small so I upsized to that which would > just fit. And instead of standard nuts and lock washers I changed to > nylocks. > > Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly soluble > in isopropyl alcohol. I was not meticulous in removing all the residue > since butyl sticks to everything. A 3/4" butyl would have probably filled > the track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up > against the machine screws, then down the other side. It overlapped making > a really nice bead down the center. > > In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient. Since getting the > washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game > "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver. I could > quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next > stud. Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket. > Since so much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to > tighten the nuts. I started with the first nut and all seemed well except > that once I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was > still loose in the hole. I tried to loosen it but no luck. I've > experienced galling in the past, particularly with nylocks. I should > have expected and prevented it. I didn't expect it on the first screw and > chalked it up to having used the drill. I moved on with only hand tools > but soon had a second nut seize. It was at this point I decided to remove > all of the nuts that had been preped to capture the washers and add a dab > of tef-gel to the nut. After this the rest of the screws went smoothly and > torqued to 10ft-lbs. > > The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem. I found that I could push them > out about and inch. This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips. With > one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive rachet > it was still a pretty good effort getting them to break. I was able to > withdraw them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert. Since the track is > hollow, I tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the screw > (about 1/2" from the head). Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or near > wooden cabinets, and I have very easy access. If leaks occur it will be > easy to detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy. > > I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one > is replaced and one is simply tightened. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley wrote: > >> Alright 37/40 owners, >> >> Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads? We >> detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd >> closet and cabinet). I was initially concerned that the deck area might be >> cored and that leakage was going to mean rot. >> >> I removed some of the bolts this afternoon. Most of the nuts weren't >> even tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate. The first >> difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud. Is seems >> that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long. I suspect that this was >> to help engage each bolt and curve the track. Anyone have other theories >> for the extra length? >> >> I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find >> that the deck appears to be solid glass. I was disappointed to find that >> at least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 screws are obstructed by the >> headliner. 2 are in cabinets where cutting out headliner material will be >> irrelevant. 1 is against the aft bulkhead on the forward side. >> >> I believe that the original bedding material was 4200 or 5200. It is >> already proving difficult to unseat the aft section of track where I've >> removed the bolts. I'm torn as to whether or not to proceed or just >> reassemble and live with the minor leaks. I'd probably be quick to live >> with simply re-bedding to bolts accept that I can't access the deck >> hole/deck surface
Stus-List Pocket Rowing Skiff
I have one in our pond. I am very proud of the design, since I had no previous experience, and it turns out to be a dream to row . . . Cheers, Rob Ball C 34 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article - Robert W. Ball
As you all may ( or might not ) know, Rob Ball also designed some really small boats, including some windsurfers, a few thousand produced. ...and a rowing skiff, "The Pocket Rowing Skiff" originally 50 built: https://books.google.ca/books?id=aPLas6AazCgC=PA192=PA192=%22The+Pocket+Rowing+Skiff%22=bl=eqA8bGQkZg=4XO2xRcw7RsOjBEp0YYVxpCKj08=en=X=2ahUKEwjQi92By6TfAhWOslkKHS3ZCSYQ6AEwAHoECAAQAQ#v=onepage=%22The%20Pocket%20Rowing%20Skiff%22=false "The Pocket Skiff" is still being built at Rossiter Boats: http://rossiterboats.com/the-pocket-skiff/ Ken H. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article
Can’t beat the old C 30. I would now consider trading my 35 MKII even for one. I had one a real nice one with a diesel but i sold it: stupid right? On Sun, Dec 16, 2018 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > What about the 32 (1982)? We love it, raised our kids on it, and had a > lot of fun club racing it. Chose the 32 over a 29 because of where the > traveler was and the fact we had small kids at the time. > > Neil Andersen > 1982 C 32 FoxFire > Rock Hall, MD > > Neil Andersen > 20691 Jamieson Rd > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > > -- > *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Mike > Macdonald via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, December 16, 2018 12:41 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Mike Macdonald; rick bushie; Rob Ball > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article > > Got to agree with that Rob. Have a 29 mk1 now and love it but there are > times I miss the 30. Wound say the 25mk1 was also very stable. But a bit > wetter sometimes lol > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Dec 16, 2018, at 12:37 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Rick, > > The C 30 was my first Lines Drawing, but it was Big George telling me > what to do. > > I don't remember any mods to the rudder, but it indeed was a while ago. > > The design was very much a development of the 27. > > Once we started being able to actual 'compare' the stability of > different designs- it turns out the 30 is the most stable boat we ever did > . . . . . > > Listening to owners over the years, the boat is stable and tough > (indestructible) and will last forever . . . . . > > > > Cheers, Rob. C 34 > > > >> On Dec 15, 2018, at 7:56 PM, rick bushie > wrote: > >> > >> I see over and over that the 30-1 started life in 1973. We discussed a > few years ago that maybe Anchovy was hull #1 due to the hull placard number > (30 1 71N) on the inside of her transom. Also, i seem to remember someone > mentioning the rudder on #1 being modified ahead of the stock to improve > balance. I’m beginning to doubt Anchovy’s pedigree. I need a hug. > >> > >> Rick Bushie > >> Anchovy, 1971 30-1 > >> Tolchester, MD > >>> On Dec 15, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > >>> > >> > >> > >> > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article
What about the 32 (1982)? We love it, raised our kids on it, and had a lot of fun club racing it. Chose the 32 over a 29 because of where the traveler was and the fact we had small kids at the time. Neil Andersen 1982 C 32 FoxFire Rock Hall, MD Neil Andersen 20691 Jamieson Rd Rock Hall, MD 21661 From: CnC-List on behalf of Mike Macdonald via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2018 12:41 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mike Macdonald; rick bushie; Rob Ball Subject: Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article Got to agree with that Rob. Have a 29 mk1 now and love it but there are times I miss the 30. Wound say the 25mk1 was also very stable. But a bit wetter sometimes lol Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 16, 2018, at 12:37 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List > wrote: > > Rick, > The C 30 was my first Lines Drawing, but it was Big George telling me what > to do. > I don't remember any mods to the rudder, but it indeed was a while ago. > The design was very much a development of the 27. > Once we started being able to actual 'compare' the stability of different > designs- it turns out the 30 is the most stable boat we ever did . . . . . > Listening to owners over the years, the boat is stable and tough > (indestructible) and will last forever . . . . . > > Cheers, Rob. C 34 > >> On Dec 15, 2018, at 7:56 PM, rick bushie wrote: >> >> I see over and over that the 30-1 started life in 1973. We discussed a few >> years ago that maybe Anchovy was hull #1 due to the hull placard number (30 >> 1 71N) on the inside of her transom. Also, i seem to remember someone >> mentioning the rudder on #1 being modified ahead of the stock to improve >> balance. I’m beginning to doubt Anchovy’s pedigree. I need a hug. >> >> Rick Bushie >> Anchovy, 1971 30-1 >> Tolchester, MD >>> On Dec 15, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >>> >> >> >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article
> Thanx for responding Rob! I think it was one of the listers who claimed that > #1 went to Hinterholler and he himself had the rudder modified for balance. > The only unique feature on Anchovy is a pair of aluminum struts stretching > from the main bulkhead to knees a little aft that the chainplates bolt > to…bulletproof. I’ve seen only one other 30-1 that has this upgrade. She is > indeed stiff! I’ve never had to reef. Good thing too, ‘cause once she gets > the bit in her teeth, there’s no leaving the tiller! …and thanx Ken for the great article. Rick Bushie Anchovy, 1971 30-1 Tolchester, MD > On Dec 16, 2018, at 12:41 AM, Mike Macdonald > wrote: > > Got to agree with that Rob. Have a 29 mk1 now and love it but there are times > I miss the 30. Wound say the 25mk1 was also very stable. But a bit wetter > sometimes lol > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 16, 2018, at 12:37 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Rick, >> The C 30 was my first Lines Drawing, but it was Big George telling me what >> to do. >> I don't remember any mods to the rudder, but it indeed was a while ago. >> The design was very much a development of the 27. >> Once we started being able to actual 'compare' the stability of different >> designs- it turns out the 30 is the most stable boat we ever did . . . . . >> Listening to owners over the years, the boat is stable and tough >> (indestructible) and will last forever . . . . . >> >> Cheers, Rob. C 34 >> >>> On Dec 15, 2018, at 7:56 PM, rick bushie wrote: >>> >>> I see over and over that the 30-1 started life in 1973. We discussed a few >>> years ago that maybe Anchovy was hull #1 due to the hull placard number >>> (30 1 71N) on the inside of her transom. Also, i seem to remember someone >>> mentioning the rudder on #1 being modified ahead of the stock to improve >>> balance. I’m beginning to doubt Anchovy’s pedigree. I need a hug. >>> >>> Rick Bushie >>> Anchovy, 1971 30-1 >>> Tolchester, MD On Dec 15, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >>> >>> >>> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C removing adjustable jib tracks
As Rob Ball mentioned, if you look at the construction drawings for the C 37/40 (here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKYTJxRDJBc3BvLWM/view ) you will see two notes about deck layup, on giving teh layout schedule, and the other note for where the balsa coring is removed from the deck layup as follows: DECK LAMINATE 1. GELCOAT 2. 1 1/2 oz. MAT 3. A72K KEVLAR/GLASS HYBRID 4. 1 oz. MAT 5. 3/4" BALSA CORE 6. A72K KEVLAR/GLASS HYBRID BALSA REMOVED IN - CABIN SIDES - CABIN SOLE - 1 EXTRA KEVLAR - COAMING TOPS, COCKPIT SIDES, DECK WINCHES, MAST COLLAR, PAD EYES, DECK EDGE - 2 EXTRA KEVLAR, 2 LAYERS COMPOSITEX, AND A ONE oz. MAT - DECK TRACKS - AS ABOVE WITH A THIRD EXTRA LAYER OF KEVLAR Ken H. On Fri, 14 Dec 2018 at 20:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Rob I'm really glad you chimed in! The only conflict to your statement > that I've experienced is the port and stbd hand rails on the cabin top. > I've replaced them and know for a fact that the deck in that area Is cored. > As evidenced by the exact placement on numerous other boats these > handrails are original equipment. Are you saying that the hand rails are > not major equipment or that they weren't part of the plan? No offense but > either or both of these answers seems like a bit of an oversight. > > Rob you also mentioned the steering pedestal. Could you clarify your > statement about whether or not coring material is present? > > Thanks, > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Fri, Dec 14, 2018, 5:10 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List wrote: > >> Bob, >> There was no core anywhere on the deck if that part was on the original >> deck plan from the design office. >> I can't remember if that track was on the original deck plan. So, it >> will depend on that particular design's history. But, for sure the intent >> is/was that all serious deck fittings had no core, or had plywood core >> (like under the pedestal) . . . . . >> Rob Ball.C 34 >> >> On Dec 14, 2018, at 11:19 AM, Robert Boyer wrote: >> >> Can we determine that all C’s don’t have Alda core where the track is >> installed? >> >> Bob >> >> Bob Boyer >> s/v Rainy Days >> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) >> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter) >> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com >> email: dainyr...@icloud.com >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
