Stus-List Please remove me from the cnc list

[Terry Pennock via CnC-List]

Please remove me from the cnc-list.

We have sold our boat.
The list can provide very useful information and assistance for C owners

Thanks in advance.

Terry
IMS Island Microsystems Ltd
250 287-9874
www.islandmicro.com
[Imslogo320-200][Apps]

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Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower (Matt Janssen)

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Listen to Frwd...he is knowledgeable, unbiased and I trust him...i don't trust 
easily..
Bill Walker
CnC 36
On Monday, June 24, 2019 Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Alfred at Schooner rebuilds/remans tons of diesel engines per year; he markets 
his service es through www.dieselenginetrader.com.  He’s probably worked on 
more Yanmar diesels in his life than any of us could ever even guess.  His son, 
Walkie, is the acknowledged diesel maintenance guy for all of western Lake 
Superior.
A friend just repowered from an old Volvo to an Alfred-reman’ed Yanmar 3HM; and 
aside from having to do all the related wiring and plumbing himself, he’s very 
happy with the result.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI (also at Port Superior…)

On Jun 24, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Dirk Niles via CnC-List  
wrote:

I had never heard of Schooner Bay Marina and it turns out they are less than 10 
miles from my marina on Lake Superior. I'll reach out to some locals for any 
background. Google comments referenced a concern about a core refund.


Dirk Niles C 34 "Great Joy" Port Superior, WI




-- Forwarded message --
From: Matt Janssen 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 11:56:31 -0400
Subject: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower
About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let go. 
What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower 
project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay accommodations, 
i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save some of the season. 
Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. The only one i've 
been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina Wisconsin; full rebuild 
with 1-year warranty.   
For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on 
vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any experience 
with Schooner Bay Marina? 
best,matt

--Matthew JanssenC 27 MkV EduamSouth Amboy, NJ

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Re: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Ours is a completely different boat and setup, but perhaps some of this
will help in some way:

Callisto is a 35 mk2 with a solar "arch" over the aft of the cockpit built
by PO. Recently modified by me to reduce weight (remove extra i-beams) and
balance the load by rotating the panels 90 deg and positioning in the
centre, just aft of the backstay (approx 6' above cockpit)
- 1x 100w + 1x 55w solar panels are rigid aluminum framed, old, large
(above 55"x34" total) and heavy, but work well
- 4x 6V golf cart batteries in two banks, no starting battery
- fridge is a 12/120V unit circa 1993 which uses a reported 4A @ 12V,
haven't confirmed with a meter, and has been running 24x7 for about 3 weeks
with no issues, sometimes 4-5 days between engine starts, but weather has
been mainly sunny, and even cloudy days are enough to charge batteries at
this time of year with over 15 hrs of sun.
- minimal loads otherwise except charging tablet/laptop/phone, stereo and
mostly LED lights
Our panel voltage has dropped as low as 12.5V at the end of a cloudy day,
but is always back up to 12.8V+ soon after the sun is up. So far no issues
with engine starting, although I know deep cycle are not ideal for this
(rated at only 107CCA each battery; original automotive engine spec is
650CCA), I spread the load across all 4 batteries, and the engine starts on
first crank always (VW 1.6L 4cyl diesel), so most significant load is the
glow plugs for about 10 seconds at 60A. After messing with the inj. pump
once and losing fuel prime (self priming pump but can take 30 secs or
more), I did notice that the batteries don't like cranking the starter for
too long, so this is something I need to be careful with.

Dodgers aren't ideal for solar panels due to the shade from the boom and
sail, but if this is the only place you have to start with, a small
flexible panel of 50-75W should provide enough for battery maintenance if
your loads are low. If you're thinking of adding more later, going with a
panel of a common size and make might make it easier to match up later to
avoid oddball sizes/shapes.

We will be heading out for 3+ weeks next month when weather will be much
warmer, so I'll know more then how well the system keeps up and if I need
more batteries or panels. Since I have dual 65A alternators, if we move
under power at least every other day for at least a short while (enough to
motor in/out of anchorage and run the windlass), that should help keep the
batteries topped up also.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:40 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Man you got lots of available amps hours in those batteries. If you need
> more power consider carrying a little Honda 2000 watt generator and a
> gallon of gasoline
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:29 PM kelly petew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello, Listers,
>>
>> I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
>>
>> But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.
>>
>>
>>
>> For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery
>> maintenance, but I’d beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
>>
>> My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle,
>> wet-cells, in parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp
>> hours], used for starting.
>>
>> I’ve studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I’ve tried to contact a
>> west coast mfr., Renogy, but I can’t reach anyone there, as yet.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any and all feedback is much appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Fair Winds,
>>
>>
>>
>> Pete W.
>>
>> Siren Song
>>
>> ‘91C 30-2
>>
>> Deltaville, Va.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Man you got lots of available amps hours in those batteries. If you need
more power consider carrying a little Honda 2000 watt generator and a
gallon of gasoline

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:29 PM kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, Listers,
>
> I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
>
> But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.
>
>
>
> For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery
> maintenance, but I’d beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
>
> My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle,
> wet-cells, in parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp
> hours], used for starting.
>
> I’ve studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I’ve tried to contact a
> west coast mfr., Renogy, but I can’t reach anyone there, as yet.
>
>
>
> Any and all feedback is much appreciated.
>
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> Siren Song
>
> ‘91C 30-2
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 mast wiring [was "smile"]

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Usually what is to be expected at the spreaders?


On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 16:33 dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Also if the mast needs cleaning or work done at the spreaders do it and
> also inspect halyards and everything else aloft like windex and wind
> instrument sender. Do it all. I sanded my aluminium mast and polished with
> fluid film. Not bad after 10 or more years but still bare Al.  I may never
> take the time or effort to paint that mast. It is a real heavy made piece
> and will easily serve well for many years to come. Alianna looks good
> because of sail trim and speed.not a painted mast.  Hahaha
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:24 PM dwight veinot  wrote:
>
>> Good advice Fred but sometimes the costs add up but i agree there is no
>> need to remove the mast for winter storage on the hard so fix everything
>> while you got it out. Alianna’s mast has been in year round for many years
>> and no problems. Light  Bulbs dont last forever nor do the connections. I
>> need to fix my masthead light and install a new vhf antennae this year
>> because of a lightning strike. Thankfully the marina can do that for me
>> without taking the mast out.
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:02 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If you’re going to have the mast down, definitely replace the antenna
>>> and antenna cable.  And if you can, replace *ALL* of the mast wiring,
>>> and switch to LED for your nav lights (steaming, anchor, masthead
>>> tri-color) and deck lights.
>>>
>>> These guys have nice stuff for LED lighting: www.marinebeam.com
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Jun 24, 2019, at 1:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the
>>> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable
>>> and antenna?
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> --
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 mast wiring [was "smile"]

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I just did this project on my 30 MK I, prior to launch this year - replaced old 
incandescent anchor, steaming, and spreader lights with LEDs, pulled all old 
wire out of the mast and replaced with new proper marine-grade duplex (some of 
the old wire was literally lamp cord).  Put three thick zip-ties 120 degrees 
apart around the new wire every few feet to keep it from slapping inside the 
mast.  The spreader light can switch between blue and white, and the steaming 
light also has a bow light that can switch between red and white.  So I’ve got 
the disco effect going now :)  Overall it was a relatively inexpensive and 
pretty fulfilling project to clean it all up and make it right and modern.  Now 
need to do the same with the rest of the lights on the boat.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 24, 2019, at 2:02 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If you’re going to have the mast down, definitely replace the antenna and 
> antenna cable.  And if you can, replace ALL of the mast wiring, and switch to 
> LED for your nav lights (steaming, anchor, masthead tri-color) and deck 
> lights.
> 
> These guys have nice stuff for LED lighting: www.marinebeam.com 
> 
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jun 24, 2019, at 1:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the 
>> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable and 
>> antenna?
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 mast wiring [was "smile"]

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Also if the mast needs cleaning or work done at the spreaders do it and
also inspect halyards and everything else aloft like windex and wind
instrument sender. Do it all. I sanded my aluminium mast and polished with
fluid film. Not bad after 10 or more years but still bare Al.  I may never
take the time or effort to paint that mast. It is a real heavy made piece
and will easily serve well for many years to come. Alianna looks good
because of sail trim and speed.not a painted mast.  Hahaha

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:24 PM dwight veinot  wrote:

> Good advice Fred but sometimes the costs add up but i agree there is no
> need to remove the mast for winter storage on the hard so fix everything
> while you got it out. Alianna’s mast has been in year round for many years
> and no problems. Light  Bulbs dont last forever nor do the connections. I
> need to fix my masthead light and install a new vhf antennae this year
> because of a lightning strike. Thankfully the marina can do that for me
> without taking the mast out.
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:02 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> If you’re going to have the mast down, definitely replace the antenna and
>> antenna cable.  And if you can, replace *ALL* of the mast wiring, and
>> switch to LED for your nav lights (steaming, anchor, masthead tri-color)
>> and deck lights.
>>
>> These guys have nice stuff for LED lighting: www.marinebeam.com
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Jun 24, 2019, at 1:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the
>> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable
>> and antenna?
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello, Listers,
I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.

For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery maintenance, 
but I'd beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle, wet-cells, in 
parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp hours], used for 
starting.
I've studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I've tried to contact a west 
coast mfr., Renogy, but I can't reach anyone there, as yet.

Any and all feedback is much appreciated.

Fair Winds,

Pete W.
Siren Song
'91C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.


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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 mast wiring [was "smile"]

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good advice Fred but sometimes the costs add up but i agree there is no
need to remove the mast for winter storage on the hard so fix everything
while you got it out. Alianna’s mast has been in year round for many years
and no problems. Light  Bulbs dont last forever nor do the connections. I
need to fix my masthead light and install a new vhf antennae this year
because of a lightning strike. Thankfully the marina can do that for me
without taking the mast out.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:02 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you’re going to have the mast down, definitely replace the antenna and
> antenna cable.  And if you can, replace *ALL* of the mast wiring, and
> switch to LED for your nav lights (steaming, anchor, masthead tri-color)
> and deck lights.
>
> These guys have nice stuff for LED lighting: www.marinebeam.com
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Jun 24, 2019, at 1:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the
> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable
> and antenna?
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List C smile repair document

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Do it right and you may not have to fix again. Agree the keel probsbly aint
gonna fall off and The ss bolts and nuts are morr than adequate but some of
us just dont want to see thst ugly smile on the hard and let it could
widen. The fix is good and very much worth the small effort and expense
required to do i

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 4:22 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> I take some issue with the problem normally being toque on the bolts . . .
>
> I believe the biggest reason is there is a plastic boat sump (which
> distorts slightly) up against a solid cast lead blob which does Not distort
> at all.
>
> We chased that problem for years and minimized it, but a fiberglass sump
> flexes – the curved fiberglass shape just outboard of the washers
> straightens and returns slightly so that outboard area cannot be solidly
> connected to the lead.
>
> I’d haven’t seen the ‘smile’ so large that there is any real worry, but I
> may have just not been around enough  . . .
>
> The repairs suggested certainly do a great job in making it go away, so
> I’m all for that.
>
> Personally, I know the safety factor of the bolts holding the keel on is 5
> : 1, so there is no structural worry.
>
> On my boat, I just epoxy over it and accept that I’ll have to do it again
> . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> *Rob Ball  **C 34*
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 mast wiring [was "smile"]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

If you’re going to have the mast down, definitely replace the antenna and 
antenna cable.  And if you can, replace ALL of the mast wiring, and switch to 
LED for your nav lights (steaming, anchor, masthead tri-color) and deck lights.

These guys have nice stuff for LED lighting: www.marinebeam.com 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 24, 2019, at 1:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the 
> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable and 
> antenna?

___

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Re: Stus-List C smile repair document

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here's my write up, from when the repair was done many years ago:

Dropped the keel. Flushed out the keel bolt holes.  The forward bolt hole
(which was under the mast) had a void around it, and a terrible smell when
it was flushed out. The yard ground the surface of the keel and the stub,
filled the void with a gallon of epoxy (yes, a gallon), and epoxied the
keel to the stub. New washers were fabricated (large square stainless,
tapered so that the old washers and nut would lay flat against the new
washers). The old washers were replaced with the newly fabricated washers,
and then placed on top of the new washers with the nuts torqued to spec.
Finally the smile was covered with fiberglass and epoxy. After more than
ten years, the smile hasn't returned, and I haven't had to torque the nuts
again.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR


On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 12:22 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> I take some issue with the problem normally being toque on the bolts . . .
>
> I believe the biggest reason is there is a plastic boat sump (which
> distorts slightly) up against a solid cast lead blob which does Not distort
> at all.
>
> We chased that problem for years and minimized it, but a fiberglass sump
> flexes – the curved fiberglass shape just outboard of the washers
> straightens and returns slightly so that outboard area cannot be solidly
> connected to the lead.
>
> I’d haven’t seen the ‘smile’ so large that there is any real worry, but I
> may have just not been around enough  . . .
>
> The repairs suggested certainly do a great job in making it go away, so
> I’m all for that.
>
> Personally, I know the safety factor of the bolts holding the keel on is 5
> : 1, so there is no structural worry.
>
> On my boat, I just epoxy over it and accept that I’ll have to do it again
> . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> *Rob Ball  **C 34*
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=3S5NlXAq8lVpZjWn9SDvGV3LKUteZ67bzXn-npybIaE=DgndjVw1nnCOylT6WPSqPpES_-m03ZNWBEd6-EZi9Ck=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 "smile"

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Do the whole fix, not just cosmetic, you will be happier next season

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 3:52 PM General Gao via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've spoken to the yard and decided to take the mast down to tighten all
> the bolts, then I will do the cosmetic fix.
>
> This will also give me a chance to inspect the mast, hopefully no
> surprises there!
>
> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the
> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable
> and antenna?
>
> Thank you.
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Also check the mast step (under the cast plate which the mast sits on),
>> as the previous owner of our '74 35 mk2 said that it was an oak block which
>> had rotted away, and resulted in the forward most keel studs not holding
>> torque on the keel. He dug it out and poured concrete in place of the
>> block, with a stainless pipe through it for drainage. This was in 2003, and
>> when I hauled her this spring, there was no sign of movement at the keel
>> joint, although I did choose to epoxy over the joint instead of replacing
>> the flexible sealant he had used.
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 8:28 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Looks very similar to what i repaired on my 35 MKII using a very similar
>>> procedure to that described by Dennis Connor. Yes there is 1 keel bolt
>>> under the mast and yes torque the nuts to the specs listed on the  cnc
>>> photoalbum site for the 35 MKII as the first step. Also replace the backing
>>> plates and bedding compound. Drill and tap holes in each new backing plate
>>> to provide a covenient means to connect ground wires while you are at it.
>>> Grind out the crack and grind the sump down past the gelcoat for about 3
>>> inches up and clean the lead keel down to bare metal. Blow the grinding
>>> debris fro the crack, wash all surface with acetone and apply a layer of
>>> non thickened West System epoxy to the cleaned and dried sufaces with a
>>> small wire brush. Then use thicked epoxy putty to fill the gap level and
>>> immediately apply a layer of glass matt just wide enough to cove the gap
>>> and smooth that out to release any entrapped air. Then lay on more
>>> thickened epoxy and apply a layer of glass matt about 2 inches wide and
>>> smooth out as before. Then another layer of thickened epoxy andglass matt 3
>>> to 4 inches wide sooth out as for the others and then one more layer about
>>> 4 inches wideand amooth out covering with thickened epoxy. Grind the cured
>>> product to remove obvious bumps and then fsir to a smooth surface with
>>> lightweight auto body filler or other fairing compound. Prime and apply
>>> bottom paint. I will send you a photo of my result if you wish.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:01 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 That looks like it could have resulted from the combined effect of
 loose bolts AND a grounding event.  I definitely think it needs additional
 attention.

 I would do the "normal" repair.  Tighten/check tight the keel bolts,
 excavate, fill, glass(maybe), fair.

 Have you had a chance to investigate for water ingress around any of
 the bolts?  Can you or has anybody done a structural inspection?  What
 happens during a grounding is that when going forward the keel acts as a
 lever arm and crushes into the hull at the trailing edge of the keel.
 Compression damage to both the hull and keel may be evident in this area.

 Some people suggest to use the flexible material to fill the gap
 because the keel is likely to flex when heel over, is that a perception or
 a fact?

 Original construction used a layer of 5200, 4200, or butyl tape on the
 joint.  The joint was then faired with a low density fairing compound.
 Often times what owners see is years of bottom paint and the fairing
 material chipping out in a straight line that extends from leading edge to
 trailing edge on both sides.  This is a typical smile.  Sometimes it is
 natural and unavoidable cantilever flexing.  Sometimes it is loose-ish
 bolts that allow for the cantilever flex.  Yes, instead of a low density
 fairing compound a tougher material is in order.  Notice I didn't say
 stronger or harder.  Toughness is the opposite of brittle.  IMO the west
 systems G-Flex line of products fits this description.  If I was in need of
 dropping the keel I would probably still use 5200 to seal the joint but
 then simply fill with G-Flex as described in the article that I linked
 previously.

 Also, do you need to raise the mast to tighten the bolt? I am under the
 impression that one bolt is hidden under the 

Re: Stus-List C smile repair document

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good idea. No one wants that smile. I think what you (dennis) wrote up was
very helpful and it worked great for me. Anyone with “smile” issues on a
C yacht that they want to fix can follow that procedure and end up with a
smile on their face instead of at the keel/hull joint. Very beneficial and
well documented.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 2:42 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Since the C smile topic seems to occur frequently, perhaps a generic
> document to explain the cause and repair could be developed and posted on
> the Photo Album site.  We could then just point any concerned inquirer to
> the document.
>
> Here's a start:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DOxXG3oTJfvaYtOjFUc2RTfubHMiYhsK
>
> Thoughts?  Edits?  Suggestions?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Stus-List C smile repair document

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Dennis,
I take some issue with the problem normally being toque on the bolts . . .
I believe the biggest reason is there is a plastic boat sump (which distorts 
slightly) up against a solid cast lead blob which does Not distort at all.
We chased that problem for years and minimized it, but a fiberglass sump flexes 
– the curved fiberglass shape just outboard of the washers straightens and 
returns slightly so that outboard area cannot be solidly connected to the lead.
I’d haven’t seen the ‘smile’ so large that there is any real worry, but I may 
have just not been around enough  . . .
The repairs suggested certainly do a great job in making it go away, so I’m all 
for that.
Personally, I know the safety factor of the bolts holding the keel on is 5 : 1, 
so there is no structural worry.
On my boat, I just epoxy over it and accept that I’ll have to do it again . . .

Cheers,
Rob Ball  C 34



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Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 "smile"

[General Gao via CnC-List]

I've spoken to the yard and decided to take the mast down to tighten all
the bolts, then I will do the cosmetic fix.

This will also give me a chance to inspect the mast, hopefully no surprises
there!

I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the
antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable
and antenna?

Thank you.

On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Also check the mast step (under the cast plate which the mast sits on), as
> the previous owner of our '74 35 mk2 said that it was an oak block which
> had rotted away, and resulted in the forward most keel studs not holding
> torque on the keel. He dug it out and poured concrete in place of the
> block, with a stainless pipe through it for drainage. This was in 2003, and
> when I hauled her this spring, there was no sign of movement at the keel
> joint, although I did choose to epoxy over the joint instead of replacing
> the flexible sealant he had used.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 8:28 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looks very similar to what i repaired on my 35 MKII using a very similar
>> procedure to that described by Dennis Connor. Yes there is 1 keel bolt
>> under the mast and yes torque the nuts to the specs listed on the  cnc
>> photoalbum site for the 35 MKII as the first step. Also replace the backing
>> plates and bedding compound. Drill and tap holes in each new backing plate
>> to provide a covenient means to connect ground wires while you are at it.
>> Grind out the crack and grind the sump down past the gelcoat for about 3
>> inches up and clean the lead keel down to bare metal. Blow the grinding
>> debris fro the crack, wash all surface with acetone and apply a layer of
>> non thickened West System epoxy to the cleaned and dried sufaces with a
>> small wire brush. Then use thicked epoxy putty to fill the gap level and
>> immediately apply a layer of glass matt just wide enough to cove the gap
>> and smooth that out to release any entrapped air. Then lay on more
>> thickened epoxy and apply a layer of glass matt about 2 inches wide and
>> smooth out as before. Then another layer of thickened epoxy andglass matt 3
>> to 4 inches wide sooth out as for the others and then one more layer about
>> 4 inches wideand amooth out covering with thickened epoxy. Grind the cured
>> product to remove obvious bumps and then fsir to a smooth surface with
>> lightweight auto body filler or other fairing compound. Prime and apply
>> bottom paint. I will send you a photo of my result if you wish.
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:01 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> That looks like it could have resulted from the combined effect of loose
>>> bolts AND a grounding event.  I definitely think it needs additional
>>> attention.
>>>
>>> I would do the "normal" repair.  Tighten/check tight the keel bolts,
>>> excavate, fill, glass(maybe), fair.
>>>
>>> Have you had a chance to investigate for water ingress around any of the
>>> bolts?  Can you or has anybody done a structural inspection?  What happens
>>> during a grounding is that when going forward the keel acts as a lever arm
>>> and crushes into the hull at the trailing edge of the keel.  Compression
>>> damage to both the hull and keel may be evident in this area.
>>>
>>> Some people suggest to use the flexible material to fill the gap because
>>> the keel is likely to flex when heel over, is that a perception or a fact?
>>>
>>> Original construction used a layer of 5200, 4200, or butyl tape on the
>>> joint.  The joint was then faired with a low density fairing compound.
>>> Often times what owners see is years of bottom paint and the fairing
>>> material chipping out in a straight line that extends from leading edge to
>>> trailing edge on both sides.  This is a typical smile.  Sometimes it is
>>> natural and unavoidable cantilever flexing.  Sometimes it is loose-ish
>>> bolts that allow for the cantilever flex.  Yes, instead of a low density
>>> fairing compound a tougher material is in order.  Notice I didn't say
>>> stronger or harder.  Toughness is the opposite of brittle.  IMO the west
>>> systems G-Flex line of products fits this description.  If I was in need of
>>> dropping the keel I would probably still use 5200 to seal the joint but
>>> then simply fill with G-Flex as described in the article that I linked
>>> previously.
>>>
>>> Also, do you need to raise the mast to tighten the bolt? I am under the
>>> impression that one bolt is hidden under the mast.
>>>
>>> I had 2 bolts under the foot of my mast (C 37+).  You should probably
>>> expect at least one.  You may be able to engineer a mechanism for
>>> tightening the bolt without pulling the mast but ultimately I think you
>>> will spend more time and 

Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Matt,

Echoing Josh’s statement, I suggest you look into Beta Marine. Farron Peffer 
(252.249.2473; far...@betamarineinc.com ) has 
a wealth of knowledge and will guide you along the way. 

Something also about remanufactured engines — they are often not rebuilt to 
specs and what seems like a savings now could cost you a lot in the future. 

I put a new Beta 30 into the Enterprise in 2015. Great engine.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Jun 24, 2019, at 2:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Did you look at Beta Marine?  They have drop-in replacements that are brand new 
with warranty for a competitive price.  Same footprint, made to fit as a like 
for like.

May I ask why your project has expanded to a full blown replacement?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 




On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 11:57 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let go. 

What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower 
project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay accommodations, 
i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save some of the season. 
Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. The only one i've 
been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina Wisconsin; full rebuild 
with 1-year warranty.   

For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on 
vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any experience 
with Schooner Bay Marina? 

best,
matt


--
Matthew Janssen
C 27 MkV 
Eduam
South Amboy, NJ

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On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 11:57 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let go. 

What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower 
project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay accommodations, 
i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save some of the season. 
Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. The only one i've 
been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina Wisconsin; full rebuild 
with 1-year warranty.   

For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on 
vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any experience 
with Schooner Bay Marina? 

best,
matt


--
Matthew Janssen
C 27 MkV 
Eduam
South Amboy, NJ

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Re: Stus-List C smile repair document

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Very nice of you, thank you Dennise. Definitely a good start.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:42 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Since the C smile topic seems to occur frequently, perhaps a generic
> document to explain the cause and repair could be developed and posted on
> the Photo Album site.  We could then just point any concerned inquirer to
> the document.
>
> Here's a start:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DOxXG3oTJfvaYtOjFUc2RTfubHMiYhsK
>
> Thoughts?  Edits?  Suggestions?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Did you look at Beta Marine?  They have drop-in replacements that are brand
new with warranty for a competitive price.  Same footprint, made to fit as
a like for like.

May I ask why your project has expanded to a full blown replacement?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 11:57 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let
> go.
>
> What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower
> project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay
> accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save
> some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing
> one. The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina
> Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.
>
> For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on
> vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any
> experience with Schooner Bay Marina?
>
> best,
> matt
>
>
> --
> Matthew Janssen
> C 27 MkV
> Eduam
> South Amboy, NJ
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 11:57 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let
> go.
>
> What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower
> project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay
> accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save
> some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing
> one. The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina
> Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.
>
> For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on
> vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any
> experience with Schooner Bay Marina?
>
> best,
> matt
>
>
> --
> Matthew Janssen
> C 27 MkV
> Eduam
> South Amboy, NJ
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower (Matt Janssen)

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Alfred at Schooner rebuilds/remans tons of diesel engines per year; he markets 
his service es through www.dieselenginetrader.com 
.  He’s probably worked on more Yanmar 
diesels in his life than any of us could ever even guess.  His son, Walkie, is 
the acknowledged diesel maintenance guy for all of western Lake Superior.

A friend just repowered from an old Volvo to an Alfred-reman’ed Yanmar 3HM; and 
aside from having to do all the related wiring and plumbing himself, he’s very 
happy with the result.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI (also at Port Superior…)

> On Jun 24, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Dirk Niles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had never heard of Schooner Bay Marina and it turns out they are less than 
> 10 miles from my marina on Lake Superior. I'll reach out to some locals for 
> any background. Google comments referenced a concern about a core refund.
> 
> 
> 
> Dirk Niles 
> C 34 "Great Joy" 
> Port Superior, WI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Matt Janssen  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 11:56:31 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower
> About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let go. 
> 
> What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower 
> project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay 
> accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save 
> some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. 
> The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina 
> Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.   
> 
> For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on 
> vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any experience 
> with Schooner Bay Marina? 
> 
> best,
> matt
> 
> 
> --
> Matthew Janssen
> C 27 MkV 
> Eduam
> South Amboy, NJ
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Stus-List C smile repair document

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Since the C smile topic seems to occur frequently, perhaps a generic
document to explain the cause and repair could be developed and posted on
the Photo Album site.  We could then just point any concerned inquirer to
the document.

Here's a start:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DOxXG3oTJfvaYtOjFUc2RTfubHMiYhsK

Thoughts?  Edits?  Suggestions?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower (Matt Janssen)

[Dirk Niles via CnC-List]

I had never heard of Schooner Bay Marina and it turns out they are less
than 10 miles from my marina on Lake Superior. I'll reach out to some
locals for any background. Google comments referenced a concern about a
core refund.



Dirk Niles
C 34 "Great Joy"
Port Superior, WI




> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Matt Janssen 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 11:56:31 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower
> About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let
> go.
>
> What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower
> project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay
> accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save
> some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing
> one. The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina
> Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.
>
> For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on
> vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any
> experience with Schooner Bay Marina?
>
> best,
> matt
>
>
> --
> Matthew Janssen
> C 27 MkV
> Eduam
> South Amboy, NJ
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower

[nateflesness via CnC-List]

They are a/the diesel source and experts here (lake superior).  I've visited 
and bought parts and received good free advice. They have a huge engine 
inventory, new, used, remanufactured, or parting out.Sent from my Samsung 
Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Matt Janssen via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/24/19  10:56 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Matt Janssen  Subject: 
Stus-List 1GM10 Repower About five years into a six month refit and the block 
in my 1GM10 has let go. What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" 
into a full repower project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine 
bay accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save 
some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. 
The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina 
Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.   For anyone who have been 
through a similar experience - any suggestions on vendors and/or lessons learnt 
the hard way?  Does anyone have any experience with Schooner Bay Marina? 
best,matt--Matthew JanssenC 27 MkV EduamSouth Amboy, NJ
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Stus-List 1GM10 Repower

[Matt Janssen via CnC-List]

About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let
go.

What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower
project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay
accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save
some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing
one. The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina
Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.

For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on
vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any
experience with Schooner Bay Marina?

best,
matt


--
Matthew Janssen
C 27 MkV
Eduam
South Amboy, NJ
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Fresh Water Hookup?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have never even considered doing this.
The results if it pops a leak are not good. Also here in Maryland the system 
can potentially freeze during a cold winter. Our year-round residents at the 
marina lay a system of hoses on the bottom underwater with lines to pull them 
up and fill their tanks.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 12:33 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Hookup?

Edd,

During Touche's initial refurbishment 20 years ago, I installed a dock water 
inlet.  I've never used it for reasons stated in other replies.  I would never 
leave it active if I was not on the boat.

To answer your question, I added a tee in the line going to the cockpit shower 
and installed the inlet in the outside of the cockpit coaming.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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