Re: Stus-List C&C 33 Parting out - Victoria BC

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Keel & structural damage from a heavy grounding. There were pictures of it
in a previous ad. Didn't look good.

>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 Parting out - Victoria BC

[Brent via CnC-List]

That’s a shame. What’s wrong with it that it needs to be parted out. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:42 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not mine but this might be of interest to someone: 
> 
> https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/CC-33-sailboat-PARTING-OUT_33553418
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List C&C 33 Parting out - Victoria BC

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Not mine but this might be of interest to someone:

https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/CC-33-sailboat-PARTING-OUT_33553418
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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging on a c&c 30 mkii

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I believe that the stem ball fittings at the mast should allow the rod to
articulate and exit in a straight line.  I also believe that the stem balls
can slide out of place when not under tension.  It may be as easy as
pulling/twisting on the rod to get them to align and drop into place.  If
that fails, go up the mast and inspect.  As long as the other shrouds are
reasonably tight you should be fine to climb.  If you feel more
comfortable, there is a good chance that the first shroud is within reach
of a ladder.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 5:12 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I raised tha mast today and rigged the shrouds except for the lowers on
> both side.  These two shrouds have a curve where they enter into the mast.
> I am not sure if they are well positionned so did not want to tighten the
> turnbuckles and kink the rod at those curves.  Would anyone know how the
> rod is held inside the mast and if I need to ensure the shrouds are
> straight and aligned to the chain plate.  I hope I am describing accurately.
>
> Thank you for your valuable input
>
> cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> Monoloy C&C 30 mkii
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Rod rigging on a c&c 30 mkii

[Maurice Poulin via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I raised tha mast today and rigged the shrouds except for the lowers on both 
side.  These two shrouds have a curve where they enter into the mast.  I am not 
sure if they are well positionned so did not want to tighten the turnbuckles 
and kink the rod at those curves.  Would anyone know how the rod is held inside 
the mast and if I need to ensure the shrouds are straight and aligned to the 
chain plate.  I hope I am describing accurately.
Thank you for your valuable input
cheers,
Maurice PoulinMonoloy C&C 30 mkii___

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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I considered getting rid of my topping lift since, like many others, I take
the halyard to the aft end of the boom when not sailing.  The problem I was
not able to solve was how to hoist the aft end of the sail pack without the
topper, so I kept it.  Now I keep it loose enough to allow for good leach
tension when fully hoisted and pretty much leave it there.  This is also
just shy of the hardtop dodger.  The sailpack is lashed off to the topper
such it stands up in this condition.

When the halyard is made of the boom mainsheet is eased out, the topper
goes limp, the sailpack sags, and the boom is well clear of the dodger.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 1:55 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the
> boom high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose
> this ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest?
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 7:49 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> When I replaced the hatches on our 33-II I reversed the mid ship hatch ….
>> Improves the ventilation when in our slip!
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Rick
>> Brass via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* June 27, 2019 9:08 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Rick Brass 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>>
>>
>>
>> Ditto the A&H hatch on the cabin top of my 38. Just move the hinge rod to
>> the front of the frame and reverse the hatch cover.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>> On Jun 27, 2019, at 07:36, David Risch via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Richard…my hatch is reversable so  it opens aft.   Perhaps you can
>> reverse yours?
>>
>>
>>
>> *David F. Risch*
>>
>> *Gulf Stream Associates*
>>
>> *(401) 419-4650*
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Richard
>> Bush via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:44 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Richard Bush 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>>
>>
>>
>> John, I have a rigid vang on my 37...no issues, except that you can't
>> open the mid cabin Hatch open unless the boom is off center...but we don't
>> do that very often anyway; I do not race
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> s/v Bushmark 4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 584; river still high...
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard N. Bush
>>
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>>
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: John Conklin 
>> Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2019 4:47 pm
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> I believe at one point I was told this would not work on Halcyon? 1982 -
>> 37  But I would love to have the solid Vang! Maybe I need the customer
>> bracket for clearances?
>>
>> John Conklin
>>
>> S/V Halcyon
>>
>>
>> On Jun 26, 2019, at 11:02 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> +2 on the Garhauer rigid vang.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift
>> is such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido
>> made custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs –
>> included in the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one
>> on the 38 about 2004.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *jhnelson24 via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:10 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* jhnelson24 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>>
>>
>>
>> Ditto. Very happy with mine had it for more than 9 years.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>>
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>>
>> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>
>> Date: 2019-06-25 12:37 (GMT-04:00)
>>
>> To: cnc-list 
>>
>> Cc: Randy Stafford 
>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>>
>>
>>
>> I bought a rigid vang for my 30 MK I from Garhauer three years ago for
>> $495. I’ve been happy with it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:29 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a
>> replacement. Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’
>> range that won’t break the bank?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>>
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>>
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>
>> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
>>
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>>
>>
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 

Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I can’t speak about the Garhauer vang, but the Boomkicker would keep your boom 
too high if you don’t have it pulled down (by the vang or sheet). The rigid 
vang should be able to keep the boom’s weight (and then some).

I have no topping lift (a nuisance, as a few already mentioned) and I can keep 
the end of the boom where I want it (above the bimini).

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via CnC-List
Sent: 28 June, 2019 13:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the boom 
high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose this 
ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest?
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List]

I rigged a topping lift to take pressure off my rigid vang when not sailing. 
Goes to a cam cleat next to the vang. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C&C 
LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/28/19  10:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang? One thing I do like about the topping lift is the 
ability to raise the boom high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 
35-2. Will I lose this ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide 
at rest? --Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.coms/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 
35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallistoOn Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 7:49 AM Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List  wrote:







When I replaced the hatches on our 33-II I reversed the mid ship hatch …. 
Improves the ventilation when in our slip!
 


From: CnC-List 
On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: June 27, 2019 9:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?


 

Ditto the A&H hatch on the cabin top of my 38. Just move the hinge rod to the 
front of the frame and reverse the hatch cover.


 


Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad



On Jun 27, 2019, at 07:36, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:



Richard…my hatch is reversable so  it opens aft.   Perhaps you can reverse 
yours?
 
David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates
(401) 419-4650
 
From: CnC-List 
On Behalf Of Richard Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
 


John, I have a rigid vang on my 37...no issues, except that you can't open the 
mid cabin Hatch open unless the boom is off center...but we don't do that very
 often anyway; I do not race


 



Richard


s/v Bushmark 4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 584; river still high...


 


Richard N. Bush



2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine



Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462



502-584-7255



 


 


-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2019 4:47 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?


Rick, 


I believe at one point I was told this would not work on Halcyon? 1982 - 37  
But I would love to have the solid Vang! Maybe I need the
 customer bracket for clearances?

John Conklin 


S/V Halcyon 





On Jun 26, 2019, at 11:02 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:








+2 on the Garhauer rigid vang.



 


I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift is 
such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido made 
custom brackets for the mast
 base and boom for each of the vangs – included in the price. The one on the 25 
was bought about 1996 and the one on the 38 about 2004.



 


 


Rick Brass


Washington, NC


 


 


 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of jhnelson24 via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jhnelson24 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?




 



Ditto. Very happy with mine had it for more than 9 years. 




 




 




 





Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.





 





 Original message 




From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 





Date: 2019-06-25 12:37 (GMT-04:00)





To: cnc-list 





Cc: Randy Stafford 





Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?





 




I bought a rigid vang for my 30 MK I from Garhauer three years ago for $495. 
I’ve been happy with it.



 




Cheers,




Randy



 




On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:29 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:



 




Listers,



 




My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. 
Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range that won’t 
break the
 bank? 






All the best,




 




Edd




 




 




Edd M. Schillay




Captain of the Starship Enterprise




C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B




City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 




Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL




 





Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log




 










    




 











 




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





 





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_

Stus-List keel bolt nut

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My mast step has no contact with a keel bolt. I have 4 gauge wire from the mast 
going to a keel bolt. I make it take a radiused turn, any right angle in a 
ground is bad and a place the lightning may jump off of.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie 
Epstein via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

My $.02 worth from someone who took a direct lightning strike year before
last.  

On my 40-2, the mast sits in a mast shoe, really a box made of 1/4"
aluminum, that has two keel bolts attached through it (one directly under
the mast itself).  I had a small 12 AWG wire that connected the mast to the
mast shoe, through tapped holes in each.  After the strike, it was clear
that the vast majority of the strike energy made it to, and through, the
keel as the bottom paint on the keel looked like a million little pock marks
blown through the paint.  I also had a couple of small holes in the rudder,
but no holes through the hull.  The 12 AWG wire was still in place and not
burned.  After stepping the mast, clearly the direct contact of the mast
with the mast shoe, directly bolted to the keel was the main conductor.  The
mast bears on the shoe with probably at least 2000 lbs of force from the
standing rigging and therefore will make quite good conduction, even if the
lightning has to jump a mil or two of paint that was originally in between.
This will be by far the path of least resistance.  Realistically, after the
mast has been in contact with the shoe and the boat sailed, there will be
contact between the mast and shoe anyway after a while. You can test this
with an ohmmeter and verify that for yourself.  The main reason I can see
for bonding the mast with a wire to the keel is as a safety measure to
ensure that under all conditions there is a path to bleed static discharge
from the mast to ground, hopefully averting a strike altogether, and
possibly help shunt energy from a nearby strike.  The point is, once
lightning strikes directly, it will go to the keel anyway if the mast sits
in a shoe bonded to the lead keel.  If this is not the case, like in the
case of a deck stepped mast,  then the largest bonding wire available
between the mast and the keel would be advisable. 

BTW nothing you do will convincingly protect your electronics from a direct
strike.  With billions of volts and tens of thousands of amps being drawn,
the field generated alone will probably fry the electronics anyway.  Add
that to the fact that you have wiring connected up the mast to lights and
probably wind instruments, it's going to go all over the electrical system
anyway.  One of the changes I made after the strike was to run all the mast
wiring connections through quick disconnect connectors at the base of the
mast that I disconnect after every sail.  I don't know that it will make a
difference, but it certainly can't hurt!

Just my $.02 worth.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C&C 40-2 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

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Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

My $.02 worth from someone who took a direct lightning strike year before
last.  

On my 40-2, the mast sits in a mast shoe, really a box made of 1/4"
aluminum, that has two keel bolts attached through it (one directly under
the mast itself).  I had a small 12 AWG wire that connected the mast to the
mast shoe, through tapped holes in each.  After the strike, it was clear
that the vast majority of the strike energy made it to, and through, the
keel as the bottom paint on the keel looked like a million little pock marks
blown through the paint.  I also had a couple of small holes in the rudder,
but no holes through the hull.  The 12 AWG wire was still in place and not
burned.  After stepping the mast, clearly the direct contact of the mast
with the mast shoe, directly bolted to the keel was the main conductor.  The
mast bears on the shoe with probably at least 2000 lbs of force from the
standing rigging and therefore will make quite good conduction, even if the
lightning has to jump a mil or two of paint that was originally in between.
This will be by far the path of least resistance.  Realistically, after the
mast has been in contact with the shoe and the boat sailed, there will be
contact between the mast and shoe anyway after a while. You can test this
with an ohmmeter and verify that for yourself.  The main reason I can see
for bonding the mast with a wire to the keel is as a safety measure to
ensure that under all conditions there is a path to bleed static discharge
from the mast to ground, hopefully averting a strike altogether, and
possibly help shunt energy from a nearby strike.  The point is, once
lightning strikes directly, it will go to the keel anyway if the mast sits
in a shoe bonded to the lead keel.  If this is not the case, like in the
case of a deck stepped mast,  then the largest bonding wire available
between the mast and the keel would be advisable. 

BTW nothing you do will convincingly protect your electronics from a direct
strike.  With billions of volts and tens of thousands of amps being drawn,
the field generated alone will probably fry the electronics anyway.  Add
that to the fact that you have wiring connected up the mast to lights and
probably wind instruments, it's going to go all over the electrical system
anyway.  One of the changes I made after the strike was to run all the mast
wiring connections through quick disconnect connectors at the base of the
mast that I disconnect after every sail.  I don't know that it will make a
difference, but it certainly can't hurt!

Just my $.02 worth.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C&C 40-2 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 



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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Morgan Ellis via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn, I always take my main halyard to the back end of the boom, when
not sailing. So you can still use that to lift the boom a bit higher then
what the vang will.

Morgan

On Fri, 28 Jun 2019 at 13:55, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the
> boom high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose
> this ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest?
> --
> Shawn Wright
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, I stopped using my topping lift because it’s a nuisance when sailing.  
Instead, I use the boom vang when raising, lowering the sail.  When the sail is 
not being used, I use the main halyard as my “topping lift” to raise the boom 
to get it out of way.  I just run it to the end of the boom, go around the 
boom, and attach the shackle back onto the halyard.  I can then adjust boom 
height with the halyard.

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 1:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the boom 
high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose this 
ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest? 

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto



On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 7:49 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  When I replaced the hatches on our 33-II I reversed the mid ship hatch …. 
Improves the ventilation when in our slip!



  From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List
  Sent: June 27, 2019 9:08 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Rick Brass 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?



  Ditto the A&H hatch on the cabin top of my 38. Just move the hinge rod to the 
front of the frame and reverse the hatch cover.



  Rick Brass

  Sent from my iPad


  On Jun 27, 2019, at 07:36, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:

Richard…my hatch is reversable so  it opens aft.   Perhaps you can reverse 
yours?



David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?



John, I have a rigid vang on my 37...no issues, except that you can't open 
the mid cabin Hatch open unless the boom is off center...but we don't do that 
very often anyway; I do not race



Richard

s/v Bushmark 4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 584; river still high...



Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255





-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2019 4:47 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

Rick,  

I believe at one point I was told this would not work on Halcyon? 1982 - 37 
 But I would love to have the solid Vang! Maybe I need the customer bracket for 
clearances?

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon 


On Jun 26, 2019, at 11:02 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:

+2 on the Garhauer rigid vang. 



I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift 
is such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido made 
custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs – included in 
the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one on the 38 about 
2004. 





Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
jhnelson24 via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jhnelson24 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?



Ditto. Very happy with mine had it for more than 9 years. 







Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.



 Original message 

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  

Date: 2019-06-25 12:37 (GMT-04:00) 

To: cnc-list  

Cc: Randy Stafford  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang? 



I bought a rigid vang for my 30 MK I from Garhauer three years ago for 
$495. I’ve been happy with it.



Cheers,

Randy



  On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:29 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:



  Listers,



  My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a 
replacement. Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range 
that won’t break the bank? 


  All the best,



  Edd





  Edd M. Schillay

  Captain of the Starship Enterprise

  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 

  Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL



  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log








  










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  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   
http

Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Shawn

We attach our main halyard to end of boom when main is not up.  This allows us 
to raise the boom.  We do not have a topping lift

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
Schlanger via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 12:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew Schlanger
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

Thank you for all who responded.
FYI

As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good idea, 
I am opting to buy a new pump.

I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
http://www.depcopump.com/
I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.

It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
$528
But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized in 
Europe. - $242
Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
other pump or substituted for it.
The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
split shaft.
Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.

I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or sell 
one.

Thanks again.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C&C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY

On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Fix the pump if possible

Gary Kolc "Liberty"

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew Schlanger mailto:m...@blackhammer.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
Yanmar 3GMF.
It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!

Are there reasonable alternatives?

Thanks


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C&C 35 MKIII


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

You can control that to some extent by how far forward or aft you attach it to 
the boom.  It’s been a couple years since I installed my Garhauer but I 
remember the instructions saying something about the fore-and-aft position to 
make the boom level (or generally control its height) when the spring in the 
vang is at full extension.  Then the vang line compresses the spring from 
there.  I understand the point, as I’m thinking of getting a bimini too, but 
the topping lift was such a PITA and I’m glad to be rid of it.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 28, 2019, at 11:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the boom 
> high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose this 
> ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest? 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 7:49 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> When I replaced the hatches on our 33-II I reversed the mid ship hatch …. 
> Improves the ventilation when in our slip!
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List
> Sent: June 27, 2019 9:08 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
> 
>  
> 
> Ditto the A&H hatch on the cabin top of my 38. Just move the hinge rod to the 
> front of the frame and reverse the hatch cover.
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> On Jun 27, 2019, at 07:36, David Risch via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Richard…my hatch is reversable so  it opens aft.   Perhaps you can reverse 
> yours?
> 
>  
> 
> David F. Risch
> 
> Gulf Stream Associates
> 
> (401) 419-4650
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Richard Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:44 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
> 
>  
> 
> John, I have a rigid vang on my 37...no issues, except that you can't open 
> the mid cabin Hatch open unless the boom is off center...but we don't do that 
> very often anyway; I do not race
> 
>  
> 
> Richard
> 
> s/v Bushmark 4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 584; river still high...
> 
>  
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 
> 502-584-7255
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
> Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2019 4:47 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
> 
> Rick, 
> 
> I believe at one point I was told this would not work on Halcyon? 1982 - 37  
> But I would love to have the solid Vang! Maybe I need the customer bracket 
> for clearances?
> 
> John Conklin 
> 
> S/V Halcyon 
> 
> 
> On Jun 26, 2019, at 11:02 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> +2 on the Garhauer rigid vang.
> 
>  
> 
> I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift is 
> such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido made 
> custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs – included 
> in the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one on the 38 
> about 2004.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of jhnelson24 via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: jhnelson24 mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
> 
>  
> 
> Ditto. Very happy with mine had it for more than 9 years. 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 
>  
> 
>  Original message 
> 
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  >
> 
> Date: 2019-06-25 12:37 (GMT-04:00)
> 
> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> 
> Cc: Randy Stafford  >
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
> 
>  
> 
> I bought a rigid vang for my 30 MK I from Garhauer three years ago for $495. 
> I’ve been happy with it.
> 
>  
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Randy
> 
>  
> 
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:29 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  
> 
> My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. 
> Can anyone recommend a good option

Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the boom
high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose this
ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest?
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 7:49 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I replaced the hatches on our 33-II I reversed the mid ship hatch ….
> Improves the ventilation when in our slip!
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Rick
> Brass via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 27, 2019 9:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>
>
>
> Ditto the A&H hatch on the cabin top of my 38. Just move the hinge rod to
> the front of the frame and reverse the hatch cover.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On Jun 27, 2019, at 07:36, David Risch via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Richard…my hatch is reversable so  it opens aft.   Perhaps you can reverse
> yours?
>
>
>
> *David F. Risch*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates*
>
> *(401) 419-4650*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Bush via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:44 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Richard Bush 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>
>
>
> John, I have a rigid vang on my 37...no issues, except that you can't open
> the mid cabin Hatch open unless the boom is off center...but we don't do
> that very often anyway; I do not race
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> s/v Bushmark 4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 584; river still high...
>
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: John Conklin 
> Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2019 4:47 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>
> Rick,
>
> I believe at one point I was told this would not work on Halcyon? 1982 -
> 37  But I would love to have the solid Vang! Maybe I need the customer
> bracket for clearances?
>
> John Conklin
>
> S/V Halcyon
>
>
> On Jun 26, 2019, at 11:02 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> +2 on the Garhauer rigid vang.
>
>
>
> I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift
> is such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido
> made custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs –
> included in the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one
> on the 38 about 2004.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *jhnelson24 via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* jhnelson24 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>
>
>
> Ditto. Very happy with mine had it for more than 9 years.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 2019-06-25 12:37 (GMT-04:00)
>
> To: cnc-list 
>
> Cc: Randy Stafford 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
>
>
>
> I bought a rigid vang for my 30 MK I from Garhauer three years ago for
> $495. I’ve been happy with it.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:29 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a
> replacement. Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’
> range that won’t break the bank?
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
>
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
>
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to su

Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Nearly guaranteed to be standard SAE size.  McMaster-Carr has all the
fractionals up to about 3 inches.  It you have calipers that will be the
easiest method to measure the bolt diameter.  If not then use a tape
measure and wrap it around the bolt and divide the result by 3.14.

Josh



On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 12:30 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I did not measure the bolt size when I was on the boat and I was not sure
> if it was some unusual tread type.  Dave
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
>
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 11:23 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don't know what size you are looking for but I whimsically found a 316
> SS 1-1/4" on McMaster-Carr for ~$11.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 10:38 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the
>> keel bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was
>> about 6 AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how
>> it gets from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped
>> aluminum plate idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt
>> nut since they were recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to
>> re-tighten.  That is why I thought it would be easier to put a second nut
>> on top and tighten the nut onto the plate.  I can get that tight enough
>> with a pipe or adjustable wrench.I am not sure which is cheaper/easier;
>> renting/buying a torque wrench or buying a second nut, but if I can find a
>> nut, that seems like a simple solution.  Anyone know of a source?  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mine was like Chuck's.
>>
>> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily
>> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was
>> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and
>> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a
>> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the
>> tap must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up
>> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.
>> The hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This
>> would have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.
>> I still recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS
>> bolt for anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
>>
>> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground
>> plate out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a
>> keel bolt.  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang
>> I drilled and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in
>> place with a nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the
>> nut another.
>>
>> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly
>> with no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths
>> bolt through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to
>> hold the new ground wire terminal.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> David,
>>>
>>> Find the other end under the mast step.
>>>
>>> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4"
>>> x 20 stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long
>>> battery cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt.
>>>
>>>
>>> CS
>>>
>>>
>>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my
>>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of
>>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a
>>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt?
>>> I have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would
>>> be if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and
>>> then put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may
>>> be moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?
>>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?
>>> An earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to
>>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best

Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I did not measure the bolt size when I was on the boat and I was not sure if it 
was some unusual tread type.  Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Jun 28, 2019, at 11:23 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don't know what size you are looking for but I whimsically found a 316 SS 
> 1-1/4" on McMaster-Carr for ~$11.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 10:38 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the keel 
> bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was about 
> 6 AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how it gets 
> from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped aluminum plate 
> idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt nut since they 
> were recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to re-tighten.  That 
> is why I thought it would be easier to put a second nut on top and tighten 
> the nut onto the plate.  I can get that tight enough with a pipe or 
> adjustable wrench.I am not sure which is cheaper/easier; renting/buying a 
> torque wrench or buying a second nut, but if I can find a nut, that seems 
> like a simple solution.  Anyone know of a source?  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Mine was like Chuck's.  
>> 
>> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily 
>> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was 
>> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and 
>> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a 
>> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the 
>> tap must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up 
>> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.  
>> The hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This 
>> would have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.  
>> I still recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS 
>> bolt for anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
>> 
>> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground 
>> plate out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a 
>> keel bolt.  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang 
>> I drilled and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in 
>> place with a nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the 
>> nut another.
>> 
>> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly 
>> with no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths 
>> bolt through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to 
>> hold the new ground wire terminal.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> David,
>> 
>> Find the other end under the mast step. 
>> 
>> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4" x 20 
>> stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long battery 
>> cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> CS
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: 
>>> 
>>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my 
>>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of 
>>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a 
>>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt? 
>>> I have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would 
>>> be if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and 
>>> then put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may 
>>> be moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?   
>>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?  
>>> An earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to 
>>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best/easiest way to do 
>>> this?  Thanks- Dave
>>> 
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>> ___ 
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the lis

Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't know what size you are looking for but I whimsically found a 316 SS
1-1/4" on McMaster-Carr for ~$11.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 10:38 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the
> keel bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was
> about 6 AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how
> it gets from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped
> aluminum plate idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt
> nut since they were recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to
> re-tighten.  That is why I thought it would be easier to put a second nut
> on top and tighten the nut onto the plate.  I can get that tight enough
> with a pipe or adjustable wrench.I am not sure which is cheaper/easier;
> renting/buying a torque wrench or buying a second nut, but if I can find a
> nut, that seems like a simple solution.  Anyone know of a source?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mine was like Chuck's.
>
> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily
> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was
> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and
> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a
> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the
> tap must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up
> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.
> The hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This
> would have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.
> I still recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS
> bolt for anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
>
> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground
> plate out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a
> keel bolt.  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang
> I drilled and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in
> place with a nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the
> nut another.
>
> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly
> with no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths
> bolt through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to
> hold the new ground wire terminal.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> David,
>>
>> Find the other end under the mast step.
>>
>> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4" x
>> 20 stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long
>> battery cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt.
>>
>>
>> CS
>>
>>
>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my
>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of
>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a
>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt?
>> I have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would
>> be if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and
>> then put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may
>> be moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?
>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?
>> An earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to
>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best/easiest way to do
>> this?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>

Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If it were me, I would drill and tap one of the backing plates.

However, if you want a simple solution, just strip a bunch of the wire,
coat it with TefGel, wrap it around your keel bolt threads and secure it
with a hose clamp.  Not what I would do and probably not ABYC compliant but
it is simple.

If you're talking lightning ground, you're only trying to
dissipate/reduce/eliminate the potential for a strike.  No way a 6 AWG
cable will handle a strike.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 9:38 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the
> keel bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was
> about 6 AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how
> it gets from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped
> aluminum plate idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt
> nut since they were recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to
> re-tighten.  That is why I thought it would be easier to put a second nut
> on top and tighten the nut onto the plate.  I can get that tight enough
> with a pipe or adjustable wrench.I am not sure which is cheaper/easier;
> renting/buying a torque wrench or buying a second nut, but if I can find a
> nut, that seems like a simple solution.  Anyone know of a source?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mine was like Chuck's.
>
> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily
> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was
> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and
> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a
> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the
> tap must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up
> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.
> The hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This
> would have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.
> I still recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS
> bolt for anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
>
> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground
> plate out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a
> keel bolt.  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang
> I drilled and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in
> place with a nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the
> nut another.
>
> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly
> with no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths
> bolt through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to
> hold the new ground wire terminal.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> David,
>>
>> Find the other end under the mast step.
>>
>> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4" x
>> 20 stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long
>> battery cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt.
>>
>>
>> CS
>>
>>
>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my
>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of
>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a
>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt?
>> I have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would
>> be if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and
>> then put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may
>> be moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?
>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?
>> An earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to
>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best/easiest way to do
>> this?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every on

Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the keel 
bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was about 6 
AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how it gets 
from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped aluminum plate 
idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt nut since they were 
recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to re-tighten.  That is why I 
thought it would be easier to put a second nut on top and tighten the nut onto 
the plate.  I can get that tight enough with a pipe or adjustable wrench.I 
am not sure which is cheaper/easier; renting/buying a torque wrench or buying a 
second nut, but if I can find a nut, that seems like a simple solution.  Anyone 
know of a source?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mine was like Chuck's.  
> 
> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily 
> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was 
> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and 
> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a 
> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the tap 
> must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up 
> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.  The 
> hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This would 
> have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.  I still 
> recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS bolt for 
> anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
> 
> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground plate 
> out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a keel bolt. 
>  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang I drilled 
> and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in place with a 
> nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the nut another.
> 
> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly with 
> no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths bolt 
> through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to hold the 
> new ground wire terminal.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> David,
> 
> Find the other end under the mast step. 
> 
> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4" x 20 
> stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long battery 
> cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt. 
> 
> 
> 
> CS
> 
> 
> 
>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List > > wrote: 
>> 
>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my 
>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of 
>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a 
>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt? I 
>> have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would be 
>> if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and then 
>> put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may be 
>> moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?   
>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?  An 
>> earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to 
>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best/easiest way to do 
>> this?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
>  
> 
>> ___ 
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>  
>> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for 

Re: Stus-List B&G Boat rotation on screen

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Hmmm.  My Nexus fluxgate compass is also about the same amount off my normal 
compass.  I had to remove the transducer temporarily for the core repair work 
that we did, so I assumed that I messed something up which needs to be 
recalibrated.  Very curious that you are having a similar issue.

The Lake Erie Bermuda Triangle.

From: Bill via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2019 7:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill 
Subject: Re: Stus-List B&G Boat rotation on screen

Well, I did the turns, and it is still 135° off. I guess I will have to dig a 
Little deeper. Maybe It has something to do with how the boat is rotated. 



On Jun 27, 2019 1:11 PM, Bill  wrote:

  There is an RFC 35r rate compass installed. I'm assuming it would be a 
fluxgate, probably 2002 vintage.  
  Good call. 
  This has me thinking. I just brought it up on the screen and I can actually 
calibrate it . I couldn't figure out how in the world I would do that,  because 
they are so old and different. But it looks like when we get back to Port, I 
will do my turns. And see if something magical happens.


  Bill 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List B&G Boat rotation on screen

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Clean the wire connections at the control head. The ground wire connection
caused a similar problem with my Raymarine autopilot.

On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 8:48 PM Bill via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Well, I did the turns, and it is still 135° off. I guess I will have to
> dig a Little deeper. Maybe It has something to do with how the boat is
> rotated.
>
>
>
> On Jun 27, 2019 1:11 PM, Bill  wrote:
>
> There is an RFC 35r rate compass installed. I'm assuming it would be a
> fluxgate, probably 2002 vintage.
> Good call.
> This has me thinking. I just brought it up on the screen and I can
> actually calibrate it . I couldn't figure out how in the world I would do
> that,  because they are so old and different. But it looks like when we get
> back to Port, I will do my turns. And see if something magical happens.
>
> Bill
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray