Re: Stus-List lightning strike

[Brent via CnC-List]

It’s all theoretical.  
Brent Driedger. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2019, at 6:01 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I doubt that ANY grounding technique would be able to ensure that the 
> instantaneous power from a lightning strike as so well illustrated in the 
> video could be ‘directed’ anywhere other than where it was going to go anyway!
> 
> Keep your insurance up to date, get the h... off the boat and let nature do 
> what it does!
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
> 
> On Tuesday, July 9, 2019, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This may be old news already, but quite a lightning strike in Boston!
> 
>  
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOB_0hq4JsQ
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> Erie, PA
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List lightning strike

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I doubt that ANY grounding technique would be able to ensure that the 
instantaneous power from a lightning strike as so well illustrated in the video 
could be ‘directed’ anywhere other than where it was going to go anyway!
Keep your insurance up to date, get the h... off the boat and let nature do 
what it does!
Charlie NelsonC 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Tuesday, July 9, 2019, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

#yiv5594211350 #yiv5594211350 -- _filtered #yiv5594211350 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5594211350 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
3 2 4;}#yiv5594211350 #yiv5594211350 p.yiv5594211350MsoNormal, #yiv5594211350 
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{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv5594211350
 p.yiv5594211350ox-b1e61e1707-gmail-m6463474032986249392default-style, 
#yiv5594211350 
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#yiv5594211350 
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{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv5594211350
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{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv5594211350 div.yiv5594211350Section1 
{}#yiv5594211350 
This may be old news already, but quite a lightning strike inBoston!
 
  
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOB_0hq4JsQ
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
Bill Coleman
 
Erie, PA


  
 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Wiring advice

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

It may have changed but when I did my bilge pumps the off brand pumps had 
longer wires so I could make my connections behind a settee and not in the 
bilge.  Keep it dry.


C S


> On July 9, 2019 at 5:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The narrow and shallow bilges of these C makes wiring a challenge.  
> The relatively short wires provided with typical bilge pumps doesn't help 
> either.
> 
> If you absolutely cannot get the wires to reach high enough (just below 
> the floor boards) then solder and adhesive heat shrink is the best option.  I 
> would use extra long pieces of heat shrink too.  I'm sure there is probably a 
> spec but I usually use enough heat shrink to extend 1/4 to 3/8ths inch over 
> each side of insulation.  In a case like this I would push for 1 inch or at 
> least the length of the splice.  The splice should be mechanically sound such 
> that it is difficult to pull apart even without solder.  Look up lineman 
> splice or wester union splice.  When done correctly the twist of the strand 
> in the 2 wires lay together such that it becomes difficult to differentiate 
> them.  Basically parallel instead of perpendicular.  If you are extending the 
> wires anyway then you would probably be advised to extend them well clear of 
> the bilge.  Consider future repairs by leaving extra loops of wire.  Even if 
> the solder connection survives the pump and switch are unlikely to last more 
> than 3 or 4 years.
> 
> In the case of joining 3 wires the only BEST way to do it is with 
> adhesive heat shrink ring terminals and a terminal board.  They even make 
> jumpers for terminal boards.  Unlikr radio shack or auto terminal boards, a 
> proper marine terminal board will not be made of corrosive materials.  Proper 
> marine terminals will be tinned so as to not corrode.  Proper marine wire 
> will be tinned however the cut end exposes the raw copper.  Using adhesive 
> heat shrink seals the water out of the terminal preventing the raw copper 
> wire inside the terminal from corroding.  A little dielectric grease on the 
> rings, screws, and terminal board contacts can help ensure that any tinning 
> that is damaged by the screw will remain protected.
> 
> My mast wiring terminates in the overhead.  The bilge is less than 
> optimal.  A terminal box with glands for each wire may help in your 
> situation.  Absolutely consider the above mentioned heat shrink ring 
> terminals and dielectric grease.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 4:52 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > No and No.
> > 
> > Both of these will potentially cause stray current leakage into 
> > bilge water, which can eat metal very fast.
> > 
> > Usually I don’t solder DC power wires, but my bilge pump wires are 
> > soldered and heat-shrinked to be totally waterproof where they are exposed 
> > to water. I would also move that junction block up higher.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Joe
> > 
> > Coquina
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
> > CnC-List
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 4:47 PM
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list  > mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com >
> > Cc: David Knecht  > mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com >
> > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wiring advice
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in 
> > a wet area (bilge) of the boat.  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it 
> > convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to 
> > run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 
> > way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have 
> > crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that 
> > the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like 
> > a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am 
> > confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction 
> > exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and 
> > stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution. 
> > 
> > [BSP Clear Seal 3-Way Splice Connectors]
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in 
> > the same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a 
> > similar time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK 
> > way to set up mast wiring in a wet area?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks- Dave
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > S/V Aries

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Wiring advice

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The narrow and shallow bilges of these C makes wiring a challenge.  The
relatively short wires provided with typical bilge pumps doesn't help
either.

If you absolutely cannot get the wires to reach high enough (just below the
floor boards) then solder and adhesive heat shrink is the best option.  I
would use extra long pieces of heat shrink too.  I'm sure there is probably
a spec but I usually use enough heat shrink to extend 1/4 to 3/8ths inch
over each side of insulation.  In a case like this I would push for 1 inch
or at least the length of the splice.  The splice should be mechanically
sound such that it is difficult to pull apart even without solder.  Look up
lineman splice or wester union splice.  When done correctly the twist of
the strand in the 2 wires lay together such that it becomes difficult to
differentiate them.  Basically parallel instead of perpendicular.  If you
are extending the wires anyway then you would probably be advised to extend
them well clear of the bilge.  Consider future repairs by leaving extra
loops of wire.  Even if the solder connection survives the pump and switch
are unlikely to last more than 3 or 4 years.

In the case of joining 3 wires the only BEST way to do it is with adhesive
heat shrink ring terminals and a terminal board.  They even make jumpers
for terminal boards.  Unlikr radio shack or auto terminal boards, a proper
marine terminal board will not be made of corrosive materials.  Proper
marine *terminals* will be tinned so as to not corrode.  Proper marine wire
will be tinned however the cut end exposes the raw copper.  Using adhesive
heat shrink seals the water out of the terminal preventing the raw copper
wire inside the terminal from corroding.  A little dielectric grease on the
rings, screws, and terminal board contacts can help ensure that any tinning
that is damaged by the screw will remain protected.

My mast wiring terminates in the overhead.  The bilge is less than
optimal.  A terminal box with glands for each wire may help in your
situation.  Absolutely consider the above mentioned heat shrink ring
terminals and dielectric grease.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 4:52 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No and No.
>
> Both of these will potentially cause stray current leakage into bilge
> water, which can eat metal very fast.
>
> Usually I don’t solder DC power wires, but my bilge pump wires are
> soldered and heat-shrinked to be totally waterproof where they are exposed
> to water. I would also move that junction block up higher.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 09, 2019 4:47 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wiring advice
>
>
>
> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
> area (bilge) of the boat.
>
>
>
> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
>
> [image: BSP Clear Seal 3-Way Splice Connectors]
>
>
>
> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>
>
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Return to Esquimalt, take 2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I don't have a tach installed, but do have an optical tach, and reflective
tape on the crank pulley and drive shaft (so I could confirm the trans
ratio is 2.5:1). Most of the time I run around 2000 rpm I would guess (keep
forgetting to check), but this last fill including several hours into 35+
and 2-3knots of current, so it could easily have burned a lot more than
usual. The wind was so loud I couldn't hear the engine, so I was just
keeping an eye on the temp gauge...

It's a VW 1.6L 4 cyl diesel (early Golf/Jetta vintage), which is 48-52hp,
so far more power than required. I could probably go with a 3:1 or higher
transmission, but then there is the risk of turning the prop too fast
(maybe this isn't a problem?), since the engine has ample power for the
boat below 2000rpm, but it will also happily run at 4000rpm all day long
(not that I'd want to, it's noisy and less efficient, but max rpm is 5200).

We had a nice easy return trip yesterday, motoring about half of the way,
but going with the current, so just light throttle gave me ~6 knots SOG. I
will try to keep the engine at a moderate RPM until the next fuel top up so
I can get a better idea of typical consumption.

Thanks!


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 6:37 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting...curious to know what rpm you're running at to be burning a
> gallon an hour. I run my 75 hp Yanmar 4JH turbo at about 2200-2400 and seem
> to get around .75 an hour on the 47 footer.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jul 7, 2019, at 20:20, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> My American conversion says that 42 liters is roughly 10 gallons.  I
> typically plan for 1 gallon per hour so your suspect 15 hour gage seems to
> be right on the money.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 7:47 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tonight I'm planning to sail Callisto from Mill Bay back to Esquimalt,
>> with an overnight at Sidney Spit, and hoping for better conditions than the
>> on-the-nose 35+ knots we had a few weeks ago. Forecast is for light
>> increasing to 10-15 Monday tomorrow afternoon, which will likely still be
>> on-the-nose, but at least should be a bit more comfortable. Just in case, I
>> now have a second reef ready to go, and my friend from Japan is along for
>> the ride, so it should be fun.
>>
>> We filled up with fuel this morning, and I was a bit surprised to learn
>> that we used 42 liters since that trip. I suspect 3 hours of motoring into
>> the current and wind used more than the normal amount of fuel, as total
>> hours was only about 15. (although hour meter is also suspect - it seemed
>> to be stuck for a while...)
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Wiring advice

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

No and No.
Both of these will potentially cause stray current leakage into bilge water, 
which can eat metal very fast.
Usually I don't solder DC power wires, but my bilge pump wires are soldered and 
heat-shrinked to be totally waterproof where they are exposed to water. I would 
also move that junction block up higher.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 4:47 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wiring advice

I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
(bilge) of the boat.

1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it convenient 
to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run both the 
bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way fittings 
from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat shrink 
attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center part of the 
fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, especially for 
a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the logic of a sealed 
connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the past I used a larger 
crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one end and now that seems 
like a better solution.
[BSP Clear Seal 3-Way Splice Connectors]

2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up mast 
wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image002.png@01D53676.A4C2AC40]

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Stus-List Wiring advice

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
(bilge) of the boat.  

1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it convenient 
to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run both the 
bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way fittings 
from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat shrink 
attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center part of the 
fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, especially for 
a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the logic of a sealed 
connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the past I used a larger 
crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one end and now that seems 
like a better solution. 


2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up mast 
wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

That’s good advice on sacrificial anodes Josh. Thanks

On Tue, Jul 9, 2019 at 1:07 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd,
>
> What would you be using the fish for that you would be trying to help
> with?  By what metric would you know if they helped?  Would you be able to
> prove that it was or wasn't helping and determine why or why not?
>
> Most of the above questions *could* be answered if you had a galvanic
> cell and meter and knew how to use them.  For steel or aluminum boats this
> is a critical tool for determining if sufficient anode protection exists or
> remains.  For fiberglass boats its probably not worth your time or money.
>
> Generally shaft and engine zincs are installed /recommended by the
> manufacturer to prevent 2 DISSIMILAR metals from experiencing GALVANIC
> corrosion.  Notice that I didn't say "prevent a single metal from simply
> corroding"?  Attaching a zinc to a carbon steel plate in or out of the
> water will accomplish nothing.  The steel plate will still rust and at the
> same rate regardless of the zinc.
>
> If the OEM zincs are being consumed too quickly then a problem *may*
> exist.
> First, if you are not connected to shore power then you can eliminate it
> being a problem with other people's boats or the dock wiring.
> Second, you may need to consider the duration of the service interval.
> Talk to others regarding their service interval to get a feel for what they
> experience.
> Third, you may have a zinc that is too reactive for your waters OR for the
> material that you are trying to protect.  We call them zinc but in reality
> they can be made from aluminum, magnesium, OR zinc.  Boatzinc.com gives
> good guidance in this regard.
> Fourth, you may need or want to increase the size of the zinc to provide
> more material.
>
> If you find that the service interval is long or that the zinc seems to
> *not* be being "eaten" then it could be that the zinc isn't making good
> electrical contact.  IMO this is actually the worst case scenario since you
> have a false sense of security that your metal is protected.
>
> So, IMO, the fish are at best a waste of money and at worst masking a
> problem.  For my 37+ and maybe for yours too Edd there just aren't many
> underwater metals that need protecting.  All my through-hulls are Marlon
> (plastic).  The engine didn't come with zincs (evidently the OEM doesn't
> recognize a galvanic corrosion risk).  Which leaves the shaft and the
> prop.  A cone on the prop and a clamp-on on the shaft.  I've tried more
> than one shaft zinc and oversized zincs just for kicks.  At the end of the
> year there is just more anode to throw away.  Doubling up or oversized
> would be my solution if a service interval longer than a year were desired.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 9:58 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging
>> from a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others
>> think it’s a wasted effort.
>>
>> What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on
>> shore power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

What would you be using the fish for that you would be trying to help
with?  By what metric would you know if they helped?  Would you be able to
prove that it was or wasn't helping and determine why or why not?

Most of the above questions *could* be answered if you had a galvanic cell
and meter and knew how to use them.  For steel or aluminum boats this is a
critical tool for determining if sufficient anode protection exists or
remains.  For fiberglass boats its probably not worth your time or money.

Generally shaft and engine zincs are installed /recommended by the
manufacturer to prevent 2 DISSIMILAR metals from experiencing GALVANIC
corrosion.  Notice that I didn't say "prevent a single metal from simply
corroding"?  Attaching a zinc to a carbon steel plate in or out of the
water will accomplish nothing.  The steel plate will still rust and at the
same rate regardless of the zinc.

If the OEM zincs are being consumed too quickly then a problem *may* exist.

First, if you are not connected to shore power then you can eliminate it
being a problem with other people's boats or the dock wiring.
Second, you may need to consider the duration of the service interval.
Talk to others regarding their service interval to get a feel for what they
experience.
Third, you may have a zinc that is too reactive for your waters OR for the
material that you are trying to protect.  We call them zinc but in reality
they can be made from aluminum, magnesium, OR zinc.  Boatzinc.com gives
good guidance in this regard.
Fourth, you may need or want to increase the size of the zinc to provide
more material.

If you find that the service interval is long or that the zinc seems to
*not* be being "eaten" then it could be that the zinc isn't making good
electrical contact.  IMO this is actually the worst case scenario since you
have a false sense of security that your metal is protected.

So, IMO, the fish are at best a waste of money and at worst masking a
problem.  For my 37+ and maybe for yours too Edd there just aren't many
underwater metals that need protecting.  All my through-hulls are Marlon
(plastic).  The engine didn't come with zincs (evidently the OEM doesn't
recognize a galvanic corrosion risk).  Which leaves the shaft and the
prop.  A cone on the prop and a clamp-on on the shaft.  I've tried more
than one shaft zinc and oversized zincs just for kicks.  At the end of the
year there is just more anode to throw away.  Doubling up or oversized
would be my solution if a service interval longer than a year were desired.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 9:58 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging
> from a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others
> think it’s a wasted effort.
>
> What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on
> shore power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Hanging Zinc

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

There is no certainty of a good electrical connection from the shrouds to 
underwater metal.
Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 10:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

The C I race on has one which is connected while at dock – to the shrouds, 
which I assume are connected to the grounding system. My C is seldom 
connected to shore power and is run for about half an hour a week (out to the 
race course and back), so I don’t use one.
Gary

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2019 9:58 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

Listers,

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort.

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log











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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The C I race on has one which is connected while at dock – to the shrouds, 
which I assume are connected to the grounding system. My C is seldom 
connected to shore power and is run for about half an hour a week (out to the 
race course and back), so I don’t use one. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2019 9:58 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

 

Listers,

 

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort. 

 

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 








 






 

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Re: Stus-List Mast light

[Derek Kennedy via CnC-List]

The winter before last a tree fell onto our mast stand. Luckily only the
quick-fit base for our masthead tri-light was damaged. Aqua Signal wanted
so much for a replacement base that I decided to just replace the
whole thing with the LED version.
So far the light has performed well. It's much brighter and seems more
secure. The old masthead light included a strobe. It always seemed too high
for the base.

Derek Kennedy
SV Tortuga, 1979 C mk1
Ballantyne's Cove, NS.
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Hanging Zinc

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Sure is. Note that a LOT of zinc makes a bigger battery, so 4 zincs might go 
quicker than 2. As long as the fish gets eaten before the shaft zincs it should 
be good.

Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
Morrison via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 10:27 AM
To: Edd Schillay ; Edd Schillay via CnC-List 

Cc: David Morrison 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

I hang a zinc over the side that connects via alligator clip to the negative 
battery terminal.  I go through two zinc fishes a year.  This tells me it must 
be doing something.

-Dave
Terrapin Flyer
New Haven

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Hanging Zinc
From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Date: Tue, July 09, 2019 9:57 am
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Listers,

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort.

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log











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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[David Morrison via CnC-List]

I hang a zinc over the side that connects via alligator clip to the negative battery terminal.  I go through two zinc fishes a year.  This tells me it must be doing something.-DaveTerrapin FlyerNew Haven


 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Hanging Zinc
From: Edd Schillay 
Date: Tue, July 09, 2019 9:57 am
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 

Listers,Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s a wasted effort. What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat?  All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice, FLStarship Enterprise's Captain's Log   



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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Last summer my two shaft zincs and one prop zinc were gone in six months. I 
hung a zinc fish, connected to my shaft with a slightly modified jumper cable, 
during the winter. Three weeks ago I sent a diver down to change the zincs and 
he reported that all were good. Conditions change, neighboring boats change but 
I’ll be hanging that zinc this winter. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Jul 9, 2019, at 6:57 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging 
> from a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others 
> think it’s a wasted effort. 
> 
> What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
> power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat? 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

It is a hugely wasted effort attached to random parts of the boat. If it is 
connected to the boat’s grounding system it will certainly work and save the 
underwater zincs. You still need a galvanic isolator, even 50 zincs can only do 
so much to solve everyone else’s issues.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 9:58 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Hanging Zinc

Listers,

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort.

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log












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Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort. 

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Stus-List lightning strike

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

This may be old news already, but quite a lightning strike in Boston!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOB_0hq4JsQ

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie, PA

 

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Re: Stus-List Mast light

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have the LED version:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Signal-Tri-Color-Navigation-Housing/dp/B00AJVGW8E

Ken H.

On Tue, 9 Jul 2019 at 01:56, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 37+ came with this:
> Aqua Signal Tricolor Anchor Navigation Light with Quick Fit Mount
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVAHW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kSbjDbZYDBTG0
>
> Shortly after buying the boat 7 years ago, I bought led replacements for
> the 2 bulbs from marinebeam.com.  About 3 years ago the lens finally gave
> up and I found a replacement lens for ~$80.  March of last year we had
> the mast down and completely refit.  I went ahead and bought an entire new
> unit since the base was in bad shape.  I must have found a great deal cause
> the Amazon purchase history shows a price that is $119 (about half of the
> current price).
>
> The marinebeam bulbs are awesome and I have the anchor bulb that comes
> with a light sensor so it will only come on a night.  Had I known how
> future replacements were going to occur I might have gotten away spending
> less or changing fixtures all together.  Once I had the led bulbs, I was
> kinda invested which made the new lens a rational choice.  Then when I
> could have changed the whole fixture I just figured I had lots of spare
> parts and the holes were already drilled so replacing like for like made
> sense.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 8, 2019, 11:04 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My original plastic Hella mast head light is on its last legs. I have an
>> anchor light, tri colour running lights and a strobe. Looking for a robust
>> LED light. I am not sure I really need a strobe light. I used it once for a
>> pizza delivery and it may actually be a separate fixture. Does anyone have
>> a mast head light they would recommend?
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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