date:20190710

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Do any of the pumps have one way valves built into them.
Our Rule pump let's water run back into the bilge, just enough to make it
run again when on auto.

It didn't do this when new two years ago.
Is it no good now?
Thx.

On July 10, 2019 16:49:23 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
wrote:
I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
wrote:
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so
I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power
to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes
with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3
way connection.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:

I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
area (bilge) of the boat.

1. In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch. I had some 3
way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
crimp/heat shrink attachment ports. After connecting them I realized that
the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated. This seemed like
a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge. I am
confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
exposed. In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.

<2024633WY121.jpg>

2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
time as the alarm or emergency switch. So is that considered an OK way to
set up mast wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s=R1kFLMgjqGpUZkxeDS6SfztD-7XBK0EDXbXGZkI8nBo=

___

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or
> there is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump,
> I've ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long
> summer trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate
> earlier so I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest
> keel stud.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are
>> designed with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is,
>> there are separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and
>> switched power to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump.
>> Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.
>>
>> No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a
>> 3 way connection.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
>> area (bilge) of the boat.
>>
>> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
>> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
>> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
>> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
>> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
>> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
>> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
>> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
>> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
>> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
>> <2024633WY121.jpg>
>>
>> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
>> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
>> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
>> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>>
>> Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s=R1kFLMgjqGpUZkxeDS6SfztD-7XBK0EDXbXGZkI8nBo=
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread Shawn Wright via CnC-List

I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so
I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are
> designed with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is,
> there are separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and
> switched power to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump.
> Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.
>
> No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a
> 3 way connection.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
> area (bilge) of the boat.
>
> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
> <2024633WY121.jpg>
>
> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List lightning strike

2019-07-10 Thread Steve Staten via CnC-List

Commit an Old Testament sin,
Receive an Old Testament punishment…

Steve Staten
“C’Est La Vie”
C 26
Langley, OK

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tuff-Coat

2019-07-10 Thread WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List


Tom, I did my cockpit sole with Kiwi Grip 5 years ago and it still looks great.
Kiwi Grip is tintable by Home Depot or any paint store just like a quart of 
water based paint.  I got a bunch of color chips and it matches very very well.
As to texture, I think those that have trouble matching the factory with this 
product put it on too thick.  I am very pleased.  Took less than a quart on my 
36.
Bill Walker
Pentwater, Mi.
On Wednesday, July 10, 2019 T Smyth via CnC-List  wrote:
Has anyone used Tuff-Coat for repainting an older 
deck/cockpit?https://tuffcoat.net/technical-info/This has been recommended to 
me by my boat detailer/cleaner. He claims to have used it successfully on 
another sailboat (which is now in a distant location). Thanks. 
TomC 30 1974
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Tuff-Coat

2019-07-10 Thread T Smyth via CnC-List

Has anyone used Tuff-Coat for repainting an older deck/cockpit?
https://tuffcoat.net/technical-info/
This has been recommended to me by my boat detailer/cleaner. He claims to have 
used it successfully on another sailboat (which is now in a distant location). 
Thanks. 

Tom
C 30 
1974

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List lightning strike

2019-07-10 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List

Right Alliana sufferedjust such a lightning strike 3 years back. Took out
VHF radio and antenna, chartplotter, knotmeter and music radio. Power was
off to everything with the big make before break swith also off. I was able
to settle an insurance claim for new gear but i would much prefer to have
the old gear still.

On Tue, Jul 9, 2019 at 8:02 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I doubt that ANY grounding technique would be able to ensure that
> the instantaneous power from a lightning strike as so well illustrated in
> the video could be ‘directed’ anywhere other than where it was going to
> go anyway!
>
> Keep your insurance up to date, get the h... off the boat and let nature
> do what it does!
>
> Charlie Nelson
> C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Tuesday, July 9, 2019, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> This may be old news already, but quite a lightning strike in Boston!
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOB_0hq4JsQ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie, PA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List

Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed 
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are 
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power to 
the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes with an 
adhesive heat shrink butt connector. 

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3 way 
connection. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
> (bilge) of the boat.  
> 
> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it 
> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run 
> both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way 
> fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat 
> shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center 
> part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, 
> especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the 
> logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the 
> past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one 
> end and now that seems like a better solution. 
> <2024633WY121.jpg>
> 
> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
> area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
> the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up 
> mast wiring in a wet area?
> 
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

Re: Stus-List lightning strike

Re: Stus-List Tuff-Coat

Stus-List Tuff-Coat

Re: Stus-List lightning strike

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

8 matches

Site Navigation

Mail list logo

Footer information