Stus-List MD Boating

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

*BOATING*

Effective Thursday, May 7, at 7 a.m., recreational boating activities, 
including motorized and non-motorized vessels and personal watercraft, 
are permitted, however:


  * Boaters must be with immediate family members or people with which
they reside.
  o No more than 10 people can be on a boat at one time, including
captain and crew.
  * Boats must be distanced from each other by at least 10 feet and
are prohibited from rafting up, beaching, or having rendezvous
events.
  o Boats are prohibited from docking at restaurants or bars.
  * Vessel and boat races remain prohibited.
  * Marinas can reopen to recreational boaters, but must adhere to
Maryland Departments of Commerce and Health guidelines

.

  * Pump-out stations and boats may resume operations under the
Departments of Commerce and Health guidelines.
  * Local jurisdictions may choose to open public boat ramps, but must
ensure social distancing guidelines.
  * All normal boating rules and regulations are in effect and must be
followed.

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List MD Boating

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Joe,

 

Good news.  

 

Could you provide a link where you found that?  Is it on a MD.gov site?  Am in 
CT but we are trying to figure out what parameters may be coming from the 
governor’s office.  MD and CT are in the same group of states coordinating 
their general approach.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Stus-List MD Boating

 





BOATING 

Effective Thursday, May 7, at 7 a.m., recreational boating activities, 
including motorized and non-motorized vessels and personal watercraft, are 
permitted, however: 

*   Boaters must be with immediate family members or people with which they 
reside.  

*   No more than 10 people can be on a boat at one time, including captain 
and crew. 

*   Boats must be distanced from each other by at least 10 feet and are 
prohibited from rafting up, beaching, or having rendezvous events. 

*   Boats are prohibited from docking at restaurants or bars. 

*   Vessel and boat races remain prohibited. 
*   Marinas can reopen to recreational boaters, but must adhere to Maryland 
Departments of Commerce and Health guidelines 

 . 
*   Pump-out stations and boats may resume operations under the Departments 
of Commerce and Health guidelines. 
*   Local jurisdictions may choose to open public boat ramps, but must 
ensure social distancing guidelines. 
*   All normal boating rules and regulations are in effect and must be 
followed.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List MD Boating

[Thomas Perison via CnC-List]

I found it posted online -
Baltimore Sun - has the live announcement depicting the Governor announcing it. 
Glad I can get back out on the Bay. 

Cheers !  
Tom

“Therapy”
C&C 29-2
Solomons 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2020, at 7:26 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Joe,
>  
> Good news. 
>  
> Could you provide a link where you found that?  Is it on a MD.gov site?  Am 
> in CT but we are trying to figure out what parameters may be coming from the 
> governor’s office.  MD and CT are in the same group of states coordinating 
> their general approach. 
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 7:21 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joe Della Barba 
> Subject: Stus-List MD Boating
>  
> 
> 
> BOATING
> 
> Effective Thursday, May 7, at 7 a.m., recreational boating activities, 
> including motorized and non-motorized vessels and personal watercraft, are 
> permitted, however:
> 
> Boaters must be with immediate family members or people with which they 
> reside. 
> No more than 10 people can be on a boat at one time, including captain and 
> crew.
> Boats must be distanced from each other by at least 10 feet and are 
> prohibited from rafting up, beaching, or having rendezvous events.
> Boats are prohibited from docking at restaurants or bars.
> Vessel and boat races remain prohibited.
> Marinas can reopen to recreational boaters, but must adhere to Maryland 
> Departments of Commerce and Health guidelines.
> Pump-out stations and boats may resume operations under the Departments of 
> Commerce and Health guidelines.
> Local jurisdictions may choose to open public boat ramps, but must ensure 
> social distancing guidelines.
> All normal boating rules and regulations are in effect and must be followed.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List MD Boating

[Thomas Perison via CnC-List]

Here’s an official MD DNR link about rec boating starting 

https://news.maryland.gov/dnr/2020/05/06/frequently-asked-questions-about-governor-hogans-stay-at-home-order/

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2020, at 7:26 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Joe,
>  
> Good news. 
>  
> Could you provide a link where you found that?  Is it on a MD.gov site?  Am 
> in CT but we are trying to figure out what parameters may be coming from the 
> governor’s office.  MD and CT are in the same group of states coordinating 
> their general approach. 
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 7:21 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joe Della Barba 
> Subject: Stus-List MD Boating
>  
> 
> 
> BOATING
> 
> Effective Thursday, May 7, at 7 a.m., recreational boating activities, 
> including motorized and non-motorized vessels and personal watercraft, are 
> permitted, however:
> 
> Boaters must be with immediate family members or people with which they 
> reside. 
> No more than 10 people can be on a boat at one time, including captain and 
> crew.
> Boats must be distanced from each other by at least 10 feet and are 
> prohibited from rafting up, beaching, or having rendezvous events.
> Boats are prohibited from docking at restaurants or bars.
> Vessel and boat races remain prohibited.
> Marinas can reopen to recreational boaters, but must adhere to Maryland 
> Departments of Commerce and Health guidelines.
> Pump-out stations and boats may resume operations under the Departments of 
> Commerce and Health guidelines.
> Local jurisdictions may choose to open public boat ramps, but must ensure 
> social distancing guidelines.
> All normal boating rules and regulations are in effect and must be followed.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

 Ron wrote:

> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa
> track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where
> one boards at midship.
>

I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in
areas where the water doesn't pool on top of it. Usually put down two or
three layers and change it every week or so here in Miami because of UV
exposure. In areas where water pools, I've taped down plastic with the 5 or
6 layers of painters tape and it "mostly" works.

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

While we are talking about deck core replacement I thought I would post a link 
to the project where we did this on Nut Case our former J/27 in 2008.  Note 
that the J Boats of that era tended to not have hardware well sealed when 
manufactured resulting in many areas of wet core.

http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm

When we spoke to the broker prior to purchasing the J27 he suggested that we 
“sail it as is until something major breaks and then cut it up with a 
chainsaw”.  The wet core had reduced the original asking price of 19,500 USD to 
our purchase price of 7000 USD.  We ended up replacing the core in 14 different 
sections of the deck and cockpit.  The hull was basically dry and it was a 
great boat and a lot of fun.

The link to the boat and its full list of projects can be found here if anyone 
is interested.  http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Index.html  Projects included 
garboard drain, cabin sole replacement, building a custom trailer, re-bedding 
(properly) everything, a complete bottom job and other various tasks.

The core areas were replaced by cutting off the top skin and discarding.  
Others have had great success with removing the top skin and saving for re-use. 
 Balsa coring was used since it is cheap, easily transported and obtained and 
now well sealed.  The decks were strong and very solid after the repairs.

Hope this is of some use to somebody.

Mike

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of James Hesketh via 
CnC-List
Sent: May 7, 2020 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Hesketh 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project



 Ron wrote:
What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
boards at midship.

I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in areas 
where the water doesn't pool on top of it. Usually put down two or three layers 
and change it every week or so here in Miami because of UV exposure. In areas 
where water pools, I've taped down plastic with the 5 or 6 layers of painters 
tape and it "mostly" works.

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project, (now tape)

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I use Scotch 3M heavy duty clear shipping tape.  (not the one with string 
re-enforcement)
You'll find it everywhere at Walmart, Acme, Staples, CVS, Walgreens.  Outside, 
it should last for a few months until the UVs get it.  I also use it when I 
overdrill holes.  I tape the underside of the hole before filling with 
thickened epoxy and it leaves a nice smooth surface.

Chuck S



> On May 7, 2020 at 1:28 AM "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a 
> genoa track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot 
> where one boards at midship.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project, (now tape)

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I can attest that Tuck Tape, used for taping vapour barrier seams, works
really well, perhaps too well, as it leaves some of the red colour behind.
I taped over my engine panel opening, and it was still held tightly after a
few months of winter rains, with no leaks. The red colour appears to come
off easily from my painted cockpit, but porous gelcoat might be a different
story, so a clear tape, like HD packing tape would be safer.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 7:20 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use *Scotch 3M heavy duty clear shipping tape.*  (not the one with
> string re-enforcement)
> You'll find it everywhere at Walmart, Acme, Staples, CVS, Walgreens.
> Outside, it should last for a few months until the UVs get it.  I also use
> it when I overdrill holes.  I tape the underside of the hole before filling
> with thickened epoxy and it leaves a nice smooth surface.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
> On May 7, 2020 at 1:28 AM "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa
> track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where
> one boards at midship.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Mike, thanks for the info and the link.  I’m now becoming very excited about 
the work for some reason...I like to work on the boat almost as much as I enjoy 
sailing. 

James Bibb

Sent from my iPad

James Bibb
NorthWind Architects LLC
126 Seward St. Street
Juneau, Alaska. 99801

(907) 321-4265 cell
(907) 586-6150 ext 5 wk 

> On May 7, 2020, at 5:04 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> While we are talking about deck core replacement I thought I would post a 
> link to the project where we did this on Nut Case our former J/27 in 2008.  
> Note that the J Boats of that era tended to not have hardware well sealed 
> when manufactured resulting in many areas of wet core.
>  
> http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm
>  
> When we spoke to the broker prior to purchasing the J27 he suggested that we 
> “sail it as is until something major breaks and then cut it up with a 
> chainsaw”.  The wet core had reduced the original asking price of 19,500 USD 
> to our purchase price of 7000 USD.  We ended up replacing the core in 14 
> different sections of the deck and cockpit.  The hull was basically dry and 
> it was a great boat and a lot of fun. 
>  
> The link to the boat and its full list of projects can be found here if 
> anyone is interested.  http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Index.html  Projects 
> included garboard drain, cabin sole replacement, building a custom trailer, 
> re-bedding (properly) everything, a complete bottom job and other various 
> tasks.
>  
> The core areas were replaced by cutting off the top skin and discarding.  
> Others have had great success with removing the top skin and saving for 
> re-use.  Balsa coring was used since it is cheap, easily transported and 
> obtained and now well sealed.  The decks were strong and very solid after the 
> repairs.
>  
> Hope this is of some use to somebody.
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of James Hesketh via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: May 7, 2020 9:45 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: James Hesketh 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project
>  
>  
>  
>  Ron wrote:
> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
> track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
> boards at midship.
>  
> I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in areas 
> where the water doesn't pool on top of it. Usually put down two or three 
> layers and change it every week or so here in Miami because of UV exposure. 
> In areas where water pools, I've taped down plastic with the 5 or 6 layers of 
> painters tape and it "mostly" works.
>  
> Jim Hesketh
> C&C 26 Whisper
> Miami, FL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I’ve had success with electrical tape 

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 1:28:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
boards at midship.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project (now Tape)

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Thanks for the responses. It sseems folks use a lot of different types of tape.
Has anyone tried this Flexseal tape that I see advertised on TV? If so, does it 
seal well and does it come up easily?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

 On Thursday, May 7, 2020, 10:25:51 AM CDT, Paul Fountain 
 wrote:  
 
 I’ve had success with electrical tape  
PaulFrom: CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 1:28:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project What kind of tape do you use 
to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa track? I need to pull the leaking 
tracks and attend to a soft spot where one boards at midship.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL
  ___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

“ I like to work on the boat almost as much as I enjoy sailing. “

C’mon down to the Lower 48 and help me jump-start my project hobby… ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On May 7, 2020, at 11:21 AM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Mike, thanks for the info and the link.  I’m now becoming very excited about 
> the work for some reason...I like to work on the boat almost as much as I 
> enjoy sailing. 
> 
> James Bibb
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> James Bibb
> NorthWind Architects LLC
> 126 Seward St. Street
> Juneau, Alaska. 99801
> 
> (907) 321-4265 cell
> (907) 586-6150 ext 5 wk 
> 
>> On May 7, 2020, at 5:04 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> While we are talking about deck core replacement I thought I would post a 
>> link to the project where we did this on Nut Case our former J/27 in 2008.  
>> Note that the J Boats of that era tended to not have hardware well sealed 
>> when manufactured resulting in many areas of wet core.
>>  
>> http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm 
>> 
>>  
>> When we spoke to the broker prior to purchasing the J27 he suggested that we 
>> “sail it as is until something major breaks and then cut it up with a 
>> chainsaw”.  The wet core had reduced the original asking price of 19,500 USD 
>> to our purchase price of 7000 USD.  We ended up replacing the core in 14 
>> different sections of the deck and cockpit.  The hull was basically dry and 
>> it was a great boat and a lot of fun. 
>>  
>> The link to the boat and its full list of projects can be found here if 
>> anyone is interested. http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Index.html 
>>   Projects included garboard 
>> drain, cabin sole replacement, building a custom trailer, re-bedding 
>> (properly) everything, a complete bottom job and other various tasks.
>>  
>> The core areas were replaced by cutting off the top skin and discarding.  
>> Others have had great success with removing the top skin and saving for 
>> re-use.  Balsa coring was used since it is cheap, easily transported and 
>> obtained and now well sealed.  The decks were strong and very solid after 
>> the repairs.
>>  
>> Hope this is of some use to somebody.
>>  
>> Mike
>>  
>> From: CnC-List > > On Behalf Of James Hesketh via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: May 7, 2020 9:45 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: James Hesketh mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  Ron wrote:
>> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
>> track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
>> boards at midship.
>>  
>> I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in 
>> areas where the water doesn't pool on top of it. Usually put down two or 
>> three layers and change it every week or so here in Miami because of UV 
>> exposure. In areas where water pools, I've taped down plastic with the 5 or 
>> 6 layers of painters tape and it "mostly" works.
>>  
>> Jim Hesketh
>> C&C 26 Whisper
>> Miami, FL
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hey Dave

Are there any recent updates on your progress?

The work to date has been outstanding

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: May 7, 2020 5:21 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

“ I like to work on the boat almost as much as I enjoy sailing. “

C’mon down to the Lower 48 and help me jump-start my project hobby… ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit



On May 7, 2020, at 11:21 AM, James Bibb via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mike, thanks for the info and the link.  I’m now becoming very excited about 
the work for some reason...I like to work on the boat almost as much as I enjoy 
sailing.

James Bibb
Sent from my iPad

James Bibb
NorthWind Architects LLC
126 Seward St. Street
Juneau, Alaska. 99801

(907) 321-4265 cell
(907) 586-6150 ext 5 wk


On May 7, 2020, at 5:04 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

While we are talking about deck core replacement I thought I would post a link 
to the project where we did this on Nut Case our former J/27 in 2008.  Note 
that the J Boats of that era tended to not have hardware well sealed when 
manufactured resulting in many areas of wet core.

http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm

When we spoke to the broker prior to purchasing the J27 he suggested that we 
“sail it as is until something major breaks and then cut it up with a 
chainsaw”.  The wet core had reduced the original asking price of 19,500 USD to 
our purchase price of 7000 USD.  We ended up replacing the core in 14 different 
sections of the deck and cockpit.  The hull was basically dry and it was a 
great boat and a lot of fun.

The link to the boat and its full list of projects can be found here if anyone 
is interested. http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Index.html  Projects included 
garboard drain, cabin sole replacement, building a custom trailer, re-bedding 
(properly) everything, a complete bottom job and other various tasks.

The core areas were replaced by cutting off the top skin and discarding.  
Others have had great success with removing the top skin and saving for re-use. 
 Balsa coring was used since it is cheap, easily transported and obtained and 
now well sealed.  The decks were strong and very solid after the repairs.

Hope this is of some use to somebody.

Mike

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of James Hesketh via CnC-List
Sent: May 7, 2020 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Hesketh mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project



 Ron wrote:
What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
boards at midship.

I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in areas 
where the water doesn't pool on top of it. Usually put down two or three layers 
and change it every week or so here in Miami because of UV exposure. In areas 
where water pools, I've taped down plastic with the 5 or 6 layers of painters 
tape and it "mostly" works.

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project (now ramblings about Ronin...)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Well, I’ve been a bit of a slacker recently. I haven’t been over to work on 
Ronin since last December. My wife and I tend to travel to warmer climes in the 
winter. Spain, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic (medical mission work…), Florida 
and that sort of thing. Right now I am working on my 1988 Mako 261 center 
console so that we’ll have some sort of ability to get out on the water this 
summer. I have a locally built wooden 16’ Butler deadrise skiff that has taken 
up some time maintaining. Wooden ("Wouldn’t boat”). Our dock was upgraded last 
November and I am now re-wiring and re-plumbing it. Motorcycle trips. Azores to 
Portsmouth deliver last May with time in England. Blah, blah, blah…

I suppose the good news is that the “hobby” is in put-back-together mode. No 
more destruction and reconstruction. I have a lot of things in my shed that are 
completed and ready to be put back into and onto the boat. Deck hardware is 90% 
installed. Everything has been bedded with butyl. Which is time consuming to 
say the least. It may come out of the shed this summer to put the keel back on. 
Fingers crossed.

I’m going to assemble some random photos and put them out on a Shared Album 
Apple Photos folder. I’ll send you and email for access. Let me know if you 
don’t get an email.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 7, 2020, at 6:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey Dave
>  
> Are there any recent updates on your progress?
>  
> The work to date has been outstanding
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project (now ramblings about Ronin...)

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Dave, glad to hear of the "schedule"...; looking forward to seeing the pics 
too!  Is there anything I can help you with?
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Sent: Thu, May 7, 2020 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project (now ramblings about Ronin...)

Hi Mike,
Well, I’ve been a bit of a slacker recently. I haven’t been over to work on 
Ronin since last December. My wife and I tend to travel to warmer climes in the 
winter. Spain, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic (medical mission work…), Florida 
and that sort of thing. Right now I am working on my 1988 Mako 261 center 
console so that we’ll have some sort of ability to get out on the water this 
summer. I have a locally built wooden 16’ Butler deadrise skiff that has taken 
up some time maintaining. Wooden ("Wouldn’t boat”). Our dock was upgraded last 
November and I am now re-wiring and re-plumbing it. Motorcycle trips. Azores to 
Portsmouth deliver last May with time in England. Blah, blah, blah…
I suppose the good news is that the “hobby” is in put-back-together mode. No 
more destruction and reconstruction. I have a lot of things in my shed that are 
completed and ready to be put back into and onto the boat. Deck hardware is 90% 
installed. Everything has been bedded with butyl. Which is time consuming to 
say the least. It may come out of the shed this summer to put the keel back on. 
Fingers crossed.
I’m going to assemble some random photos and put them out on a Shared Album 
Apple Photos folder. I’ll send you and email for access. Let me know if you 
don’t get an email.
Regards,Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On May 7, 2020, at 6:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hey Dave  Are there any recent updates on your progress?  The work to date has 
been outstanding  Mike HoytPersistenceHalifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project, (now tape)

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Thanks for the responses. It sseems folks use a lot of different types of tape.
Has anyone tried this Flexseal tape that I see advertised on TV? If so, does it 
seal well and does it come up easily?
Sorry to resend this, but it didn't pop up in my email so I wondered if it got 
through.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

On Thursday, May 7, 2020, 09:58:53 AM CDT, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I can attest that Tuck Tape, used for taping vapour barrier seams, works really 
well, perhaps too well, as it leaves some of the red colour behind. I taped 
over my engine panel opening, and it was still held tightly after a few months 
of winter rains, with no leaks. The red colour appears to come off easily from 
my painted cockpit, but porous gelcoat might be a different story, so a clear 
tape, like HD packing tape would be safer. 

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Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Once I had the screws out, the hatch frames just lifted off. They were not
held on *at all* by goo.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 5 May 2020 at 19:28, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Matt
>
> They do come in a version openable from the outside, scroll down and look
> at "double opening".
>
> Getting a hatch rim off the deck is no biggie, unless someone used 5200
> putting it on.  With the butyl tape that was used on C&Cs it is pretty easy
> - remove all screws, and start at a corner where you can get some prying
> action on it, see if you can lift it at all, get a putty knife in.  Work
> your way up from there.  Might take an hour but no heroic measures are
> needed.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2020-05-05 12:30 a.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I was liking the idea of Lewmar.
>
> And I think the low profiles look great but I don’t see access from top
> side which the fore-deck guys likes to have to get spinnakers in and out
> easily without having to go below.
>
> When you say easy drop in on Lewmars, I assume I would need to rip out and
> replace the frame that attaches to the deck. I was thinking of trying to
> just change out the hatch first. A friend told me of his troubles trying to
> get the frame off the deck. If it’s a direct replacement the hinges would
> match? I don’t think I can do that with a Lewmar based on the diagrams I
> saw. My issue is the hatch itself, I suspect no water is coming in from the
> bottom frame.
>
> I have a couple of emails into Atkins and Hoyle though I have not heard
> back yet. I’ll keep on them.
>
> Again thanks to all. The collective wisdom is amazing.
>
> M
>
> On Apr 28, 2020, at 2:19 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I replaced all the hatches on the boat with Lewmars. Saloon hatch and
> forward hatch were drop-in replacements, the head hatch took a bit of glass
> work but works fine.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Mon, 27 Apr 2020 at 06:15, Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Our 77 C&C27-3 had an Aitkens&Hoyle hatch, much better than the Bomar
>> hatches on our 85 33-ll, which have been replaced with Lewmar Ocean series
>> hatches. The angle of the forward hatch made the low profile hatches
>> impractical, and the raised Fiberglas either side made them unattractive.
>>
>> I’d rate the A&H and Lewmar Ocean series comparable .
>>
>> Paul
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Bill
>> Coleman via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 27, 2020 8:33:21 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
>>
>>
>> That is a handsome looking hatch.
>>
>> How do you compare the overall quality compared to Atkins & Hoyle or
>> Lewmar?
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Graham
>> Collins via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, April 26, 2020 9:27 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Graham Collins
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
>>
>>
>> Hi Matthew
>>
>> Atkins & Hoyle make the direct replacement, but there is an alternative -
>> I put on a low profile stainless hatch from these guys.  
>> http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html
>>
>> 
>>
>> I'll look to see if I have any pics.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>>
>> Secret Plans
>>
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2020-04-26 10:12 p.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hello CnC list,
>>
>>
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a 
>> replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C&C 35 mkIII.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I 
>> assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.
>>
>>
>>
>> I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” 
>> square, the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner 
>> distance between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.
>>
>>
>>
>> I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem 
>> to match.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Matthew Schlanger
>>
>> The Office
>>
>> 1983 C&C 35 mkIII
>>
>> Nyack NY
>>
>> ___
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal t