Stus-List Re: Slow delivery

[Marek Dziedzic]

If I understand it correctly, these delays are happening only to emails that 
are handled directly by the ISPs; there is very little they can do about any 
emails that are handled by a y of the global email providers (gmail (Google), 
outlook/hotmail (MS), Yahoo, etc.).

It might make sense to switch to one of these email providers.

Just my 2 cents

Marek


 Original message 
From: Stu 
Date: 2020-11-02 20:27 (GMT-05:00)
To: C Email List 
Subject: Stus-List Slow delivery

The techies at our hosting company have done quite a bit of testing regarding 
the slow delivery of emails.  It is surprising the results they found 
-- all of the ISP’s investigated are deferring messages at their whim and will. 
 You might get the first email sent at 1:00pm within a couple of minutes.  But 
if a second message comes in at 1:01pm, the ISP could defer it.  The delay time 
varies and there does not seem to be a pattern.

Bottom line is – if you think messages are not being delivered in a timely 
manner, contact your ISP.  A delay of 3-5 minutes is normal. Messages that are 
being deferred could also be getting lost in cyberspace.

Don’t expect to get a clear explanation from your ISP.  Once they have your 
money, you only get what they give.

Stay safe
Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Slow delivery

[Stu]

The techies at our hosting company have done quite a bit of testing regarding 
the slow delivery of emails.  It is surprising the results they found 
-- all of the ISP’s investigated are deferring messages at their whim and will. 
 You might get the first email sent at 1:00pm within a couple of minutes.  But 
if a second message comes in at 1:01pm, the ISP could defer it.  The delay time 
varies and there does not seem to be a pattern.

Bottom line is – if you think messages are not being delivered in a timely 
manner, contact your ISP.  A delay of 3-5 minutes is normal. Messages that are 
being deferred could also be getting lost in cyberspace.

Don’t expect to get a clear explanation from your ISP.  Once they have your 
money, you only get what they give.

Stay safe
StuOctober is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: SmartPlug sale

[Graham Collins]

Totally agree - it is a great upgrade.  I installed one 8 years ago, and 
reviewed it for Good Old Boat magazine.  Easy to install, and I'm 
totally happy with it 8 years later.  I like that the plug has a double 
positive lock into the socket - the side tabs engage first, and then 
when you lower the outlet cover back down it locks it again.  Nice fat 
blades on the connections.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2020-11-02 1:15 p.m., ALAN BERGEN wrote:
Fisheries Supply in Seattle is having a sale on SmartPlugs until 
November 8. If your shoreside power connectors show any sign of 
burning, or corrosion, or if you were planning on replacing your 
shoreside power cord or connectors, now would be a good time to 
consider the SmartPlug. I replaced mine a couple of years ago when I 
noticed arcing at the AC inlet on my boat. You can learn more about 
SmartPlugs here:


https://www.fisheriessupply.com/smartplug?utm_source=Fisheries+Supply+Mailing+List_campaign=89845df10e-SPL-SmartPlugSale-20201102_medium=email_term=0_32a7fd0d23-89845df10e-86981669 



Alan Bergen


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Slow delivery of emails

[Stu]

I brought this up with our hosting company and they that the program will 
deliver emails instantaneously unless there is something wrong with the 
member's ISP.

I have sent them information based on responses I have received and they are 
going to try and check the various ISP’s.  If you are experiencing delays in 
receiving mail from the list, please let me know.

Stay safe – StuOctober is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Joel Delamirande]

Any thoughts with the quality with precision sails and north sails

On Mon, Nov 2, 2020 at 6:19 PM Tom Buscaglia  wrote:

> I'll second for UK.  We got a new main and 145 genny from, Stewart at UK
> Sails NW in Sidney BC.  He gave us a Boat show discount in August and that,
> along with the exchange rate.  Made it a great deal.
>
> We don't race, but I love the sails.  They were made in the Chicago loft
> as well.  He even brought them down the us in Vashon Island, outside of
> Seattle, and set them up.  This was especially good due to my prior
> nightmare with our main due to a bad build for the Schaefer In Boom furling
> set up.
>
> They are shown here - https://flic.kr/p/Qu3S9G  You can see my preventer
> set up here for a second as well.
>
> Tom B
>
>
> At 01:23 PM 11/2/2020, you wrote:
>
> At the end of last season we decided to replace our unknown age sails
> (came with the boat) and got quotes from North, Precision, Rolly Tasker and
> UK Sails.  Our previous boat had a North Main and UK Genoa (now with Joe
> D.).  We liked both but the UK Genoa was a real favorite.  The UK Sails
> were manufactured in the Chicago loft.  They came out and measured the boat
> to make the sails.  We weren't sure we would get the sails since Illinois
> was shut down tighter than Michigan but they worked on sails orders while
> "making PPE".  The only thing that they missed was putting on Sail Numbers
> and the logo on the main.  They are taking the sails back now that the
> season is over to add the numbers and logo.  They are even adding draft
> stripes to make up for the miss.
>
> The sails have met all of our expectations and it is nice having a "local"
> loft to deal with.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Tom Buscaglia]

I'll second for UK.  We got a new main and 145 
genny from, Stewart at UK Sails NW in Sidney 
BC.  He gave us a Boat show discount in August 
and that, along with the exchange rate.  Made it a great deal.


We don't race, but I love the sails.  They were 
made in the Chicago loft as well.  He even 
brought them down the us in Vashon Island, 
outside of Seattle, and set them up.  This was 
especially good due to my prior nightmare with 
our main due to a bad build for the Schaefer In Boom furling set up.


They are shown here - 
https://flic.kr/p/Qu3S9G  You can see my 
preventer set up here for a second as well.


Tom B


At 01:23 PM 11/2/2020, you wrote:

At the end of last season we decided to replace 
our unknown age sails (came with the boat) and 
got quotes from North, Precision, Rolly Tasker 
and UK Sails.  Our previous boat had a North 
Main and UK Genoa (now with Joe D.).  We liked 
both but the UK Genoa was a real favorite.  The 
UK Sails were manufactured in the Chicago 
loft.  They came out and measured the boat to 
make the sails.  We weren't sure we would get 
the sails since Illinois was shut down tighter 
than Michigan but they worked on sails orders 
while "making PPE".  The only thing that they 
missed was putting on Sail Numbers and the logo 
on the main.  They are taking the sails back now 
that the season is over to add the numbers and 
logo.  They are even adding draft stripes to make up for the miss.


The sails have met all of our expectations and 
it is nice having a "local" loft to deal with.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[schiller]

At the end of last season we decided to replace our unknown age sails 
(came with the boat) and got quotes from North, Precision, Rolly Tasker 
and UK Sails.  Our previous boat had a North Main and UK Genoa (now with 
Joe D.).  We liked both but the UK Genoa was a real favorite.  The UK 
Sails were manufactured in the Chicago loft.  They came out and measured 
the boat to make the sails.  We weren't sure we would get the sails 
since Illinois was shut down tighter than Michigan but they worked on 
sails orders while "making PPE".  The only thing that they missed was 
putting on Sail Numbers and the logo on the main.  They are taking the 
sails back now that the season is over to add the numbers and logo.  
They are even adding draft stripes to make up for the miss.


The sails have met all of our expectations and it is nice having a 
"local" loft to deal with.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 11/2/2020 2:38 PM, Nathan Post wrote:

I am very happy with my cruising white sails from Doyle, made here in 
Massachusetts two seasons ago.  I got a 135 furling reef-able headsail and a 
full batten main with two reef points.  The only issue so far was a bit of 
stitching coming loose in the leach of the headsail and I took it back for 
cleaning and repair over this winter.
Doyle was a bit less expansive then North and only slightly more than Precision 
when you consider how Precision charges extra for everything and Doyle included 
everything in the full setup.  The sales process was very low pressure and their VP 
of sales was knowledgeable about the C 34 including having a copy of the 
original sail plan he showed me. They also finished them well ahead of the promised 
date and lots of nice details were included (tell tails, bags, sail ties and so 
forth).

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA USA
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: For Chuck Schaeffer > Lost List Emails

[nausetbeach]

Not to pile on, but I just received this [below] response Chuck sent to Stu on 
Saturday on Monday afternoon at 3:23 pm.  I had to laugh – 30 minutes vs. 47 
hours…  

 

I seem to be missing most of the emails from the list, with an occasional 
response to an email with 4-5 other previous responses contained in it that I 
never received.  

 

Joe’s email about Zeta from Wednesday Oct 28 at 9:03 am was received on Sunday 
Nov 1 at 3:13 pm.  

 

Am uncertain how some emails from the list can get through but a majority do 
not.  Would have thought if it were any ISP spam filters it would be all or 
nothing.  And certainly not delays like this. 

 

Any thoughts?

 

Brian

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 4:24 PM
To: Stus-List ; Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Re: For Chuck Schaeffer

 

Hi Stu, 

 

Got the email from you but not the C list.  It's been 30 minutes. 

 

Chuck 

 

 

On 10/31/2020 3:49 PM Stu mailto:s...@snghost.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Chuck – please let me know if you get this from the list. 

 

Stay safe tonite everyone – Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Nathan Post]

I am very happy with my cruising white sails from Doyle, made here in 
Massachusetts two seasons ago.  I got a 135 furling reef-able headsail and a 
full batten main with two reef points.  The only issue so far was a bit of 
stitching coming loose in the leach of the headsail and I took it back for 
cleaning and repair over this winter. 
Doyle was a bit less expansive then North and only slightly more than Precision 
when you consider how Precision charges extra for everything and Doyle included 
everything in the full setup.  The sales process was very low pressure and 
their VP of sales was knowledgeable about the C 34 including having a copy of 
the original sail plan he showed me. They also finished them well ahead of the 
promised date and lots of nice details were included (tell tails, bags, sail 
ties and so forth).

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA USA
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Liquid rubber

[David Knecht]

I use heat shrink tubing from  Harbor Freight. Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 2, 2020, at 11:05 AM, Matthew  wrote:
> 
> On a possibly related topic, I have a few lines on my boat that have inner 
> cores that do not melt.  Unlike with my Sta-Set lines, I can’t use a hot 
> knife to cut and melt the inner core and outer jacket together.  There used 
> to be a product called Whip-end Dip (or something) for sealing the ends of 
> lines.  The newer version of this product is water based and ineffective at 
> holding the inner core and outer jacket together.  Short of properly whipping 
> the lines (not in my current skill set), has anyone found a dipping product 
> that works for this purpose?  

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List SmartPlug sale

[ALAN BERGEN]

Fisheries Supply in Seattle is having a sale on SmartPlugs until November
8. If your shoreside power connectors show any sign of burning, or
corrosion, or if you were planning on replacing your shoreside power cord
or connectors, now would be a good time to consider the SmartPlug. I
replaced mine a couple of years ago when I noticed arcing at the AC inlet
on my boat. You can learn more about SmartPlugs here:

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/smartplug?utm_source=Fisheries+Supply+Mailing+List_campaign=89845df10e-SPL-SmartPlugSale-20201102_medium=email_term=0_32a7fd0d23-89845df10e-86981669

Alan Bergen
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fridge fix

[Bruce Whitmore]

Just for clarity, I meant that when the frigde is set to its lowest
setting, I meant the warmest setting.  Previously, that setting would only
cool to about 45 degrees, not 41.



On Mon, Nov 2, 2020, 8:19 AM Bruce Whitmore 
wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> It's been a long time since I posted here - just crazy busy with work.
>
> At any rate, the plate in our fridge has been tending to frost up, and
> when I got the boat back from the yard, it built up very quickly.  I knew
> the seal on the top were good, and we even place a rubber mat on top to
> help seal and insulate it.
>
> So, kept wondering how the air was getting in.  I decided to caulk the
> joint at the underside of the countertop and the fridge box (i.e., inside
> the fridge).  It was interesting trying to get the caulk gun in position
> and such, and it took 1 1/2 tubes, of latex mildew resistant caulk, but it
> worked.
>
> Even at the lowest setting,  the fridge maintains a 41 degree temperature,
> and frost formation has dropped way down.
>
> Its an easy project with a great return IMHO.
>
> Hoping you find the helpful,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> Astralis
> 1994 C 37/40+
>
> On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 12:37 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> wrote:
>
>> test 1
>>
>> CS
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution
>> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Liquid rubber

[Dennis C.]

I use epoxy to secure Touche's headsail pre-feeder to the furler
extrusion.  I tie it with a few hitches then coat/soak it with epoxy.

I woulld think regular epoxy would be a bit hard for the ends of sheets,
halyards, etc. but G-Flex might work.

Dennis C.


On Mon, Nov 2, 2020, 10:06 AM Matthew  wrote:

> On a possibly related topic, I have a few lines on my boat that have inner
> cores that do not melt.  Unlike with my Sta-Set lines, I can’t use a hot
> knife to cut and melt the inner core and outer jacket together.  There used
> to be a product called Whip-end Dip (or something) for sealing the ends of
> lines.  The newer version of this product is water based and ineffective at
> holding the inner core and outer jacket together.  Short of properly
> whipping the lines (not in my current skill set), has anyone found a
> dipping product that works for this purpose?
>
>
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Liquid rubber on hatch update

[joe]

This stuff:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--liquid-electrical-tape--544171?recordNum=3

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 10:14 AM
To: Stus-List ; j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Liquid rubber on hatch update

 

Interesting.  Which product did you use? 

C 

On 11/02/2020 9:17 AM j...@dellabarba.com   wrote: 

 

 

Some time ago I posted about putting some liquid rubber intended as an 
electrical sealer on my forward hatch where it had a persistent leak.

We have had enough rain from two different hurricanes to fill my yard up and 
*not one drop* of water has made it past the hatch onto the V-berth 

 

I rate this is a success! 

Note if your hatches are not cosmetically challenged and you want to try this, 
tape off the area so you only get it where you want it. It is really thick goop 
and you won’t be able to paint a thin line freehand. In my case this is a 
stop-gap until I send the hatch in for repair or get a new one and the black 
rubber doesn’t really stand out anyway.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Liquid rubber

[Matthew]

On a possibly related topic, I have a few lines on my boat that have inner 
cores that do not melt.  Unlike with my Sta-Set lines, I can’t use a hot knife 
to cut and melt the inner core and outer jacket together.  There used to be a 
product called Whip-end Dip (or something) for sealing the ends of lines.  The 
newer version of this product is water based and ineffective at holding the 
inner core and outer jacket together.  Short of properly whipping the lines 
(not in my current skill set), has anyone found a dipping product that works 
for this purpose?  

 

On 11/02/2020 9:17 AM j...@dellabarba.com   wrote: 

 

 

Some time ago I posted about putting some liquid rubber intended as an 
electrical sealer on my forward hatch where it had a persistent leak.

We have had enough rain from two different hurricanes to fill my yard up and 
*not one drop* of water has made it past the hatch onto the V-berth 

 

I rate this is a success! 

Note if your hatches are not cosmetically challenged and you want to try this, 
tape off the area so you only get it where you want it. It is really thick goop 
and you won’t be able to paint a thin line freehand. In my case this is a 
stop-gap until I send the hatch in for repair or get a new one and the black 
rubber doesn’t really stand out anyway.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Dennis C.]

Might be more of an issue with North.  I hope I have better luck with the
Quantum factory.

Again, I liked my old Pentex made by a then unaffiliated local loft better
than my North.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Nov 2, 2020, 9:05 AM Matthew  wrote:

> Charlie:
>
>
>
> Before you get too enamored with Sri Lanka factory QA/QC
> procedures, my North chute is about two years old and was made in Sri
> Lanka.  We first put it up during a race with the local North rep on
> board.  The sail number was three digits.  Three out of five ain’t bad.
> North must have a thing about sail numbers, because my NorDac main came
> with blue numbers instead of black numbers as ordered.  Also, I suggest
> staying away from NorDac.  Although interesting material, it is super thick
> (bulletproof) and difficult to handle.  About four years ago North was
> promoting NorDac for club racing, but several people in Erie (including me)
> had issues with the sails.
>
>
>
> Speaking of Quantum, the Doyle loft in Detroit (formerly
> North, and Doyle before that) recently announced it is partnering with
> Quantum.  I don’t know if this is a local partnership or a Doyle
> partnership.
>
>
>
> FWIW, I am very happy with my Doyle 153% racing genoa.  I
> am not as happy with sails I got from North.
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Liquid rubber on hatch update

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

Interesting.  Which product did you use?
C

> On 11/02/2020 9:17 AM j...@dellabarba.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Some time ago I posted about putting some liquid rubber intended as an 
> electrical sealer on my forward hatch where it had a persistent leak.
> 
> We have had enough rain from two different hurricanes to fill my yard up 
> and *not one drop* of water has made it past the hatch onto the V-berth 
> 
>  
> 
> I rate this is a success!
> 
> Note if your hatches are not cosmetically challenged and you want to try 
> this, tape off the area so you only get it where you want it. It is really 
> thick goop and you won’t be able to paint a thin line freehand. In my case 
> this is a stop-gap until I send the hatch in for repair or get a new one and 
> the black rubber doesn’t really stand out anyway.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 
> Kent Island MD USA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution 
> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Matthew]

Charlie:

 

Before you get too enamored with Sri Lanka factory QA/QC 
procedures, my North chute is about two years old and was made in Sri Lanka.  
We first put it up during a race with the local North rep on board.  The sail 
number was three digits.  Three out of five ain’t bad.  North must have a thing 
about sail numbers, because my NorDac main came with blue numbers instead of 
black numbers as ordered.  Also, I suggest staying away from NorDac.  Although 
interesting material, it is super thick (bulletproof) and difficult to handle.  
About four years ago North was promoting NorDac for club racing, but several 
people in Erie (including me) had issues with the sails.

 

Speaking of Quantum, the Doyle loft in Detroit (formerly North, 
and Doyle before that) recently announced it is partnering with Quantum.  I 
don’t know if this is a local partnership or a Doyle partnership.

 

FWIW, I am very happy with my Doyle 153% racing genoa.  I am 
not as happy with sails I got from North.

 

Matt

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2020 9:14 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails

 

Charlie,

 

2 thoughts.

 

First, my goto racing 155's have been a North Mylar/Kevlar triradial and a 
local loft's (now an Ullman affiliate) Pentex triradial.  My gut feel has 
always been the old Pentex was faster.  Pentex is a high tech Dacron.  The 
North was made in their factory in Sri Lanka.  I personally like triradial 
racing sails.

 

Second, my 20 year old cross cut Dacron cruising 155 was shredded in Hurricane 
Sally.  I got quotes for a new "plain Jane" crosscut 155 from North and Ullman 
in Louisiana and a local loft in Pensacola.  The local loft was about 70% of 
the cost.  I'm going with the Pensacola loft.  The sailmaker meticulously 
measured for the sail.  The sail will be made in the Quantum factory in Sri 
Lanka.  Delivery in 4-6 weeks.

 

Now, my thoughts on offshore made sails.  As long as the boat is measured by a 
local sailmaker and the local sailmaker stands behind the sail, I think 
offshore manufacture is a good way to go.  

The local sailmaker designs the sail for your boat, local conditions and your 
inputs.  He then sends the digital design to the offshore factoryIt's my 
feeling that the big sail factories in Sri Lanka, etc. have proceduralized 
manufacturing and quality control.  That may not exist in a local loft.  

 

My North 155 (Sri Lanka) was very well made.  The only quality issue I've had 
with a sail was with one sewn in a local loft. The sailmaker forgot to sew the 
web strap reinforcements on the tack.  The tack let go during a race costing me 
a spot on the podium.  The quality controlprocedures in an offshore factory 
probably would have caught that omission.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

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Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

[Stephen Thorne]

Guys one other option is the “Boom Break” which is what we ended up using
on DejaVu during the offshore racing.  While this is not a preventer in the
traditional sense it does significantly slow the jibe over the cockpit.
The advantage with this system is that in all but the heaviest weather you
can jibe the main without all the drama/risk of traditional jibes.  The
force is greatly reduced which seemed to take risk out of midboom
attachment point.  Set up & takedown is done from inside the cockpit so we
used it more often.  So intentional jibes were much easier and so done more
often vs taking down a set preventer and resetting on new tack.  When we
did experience accidental jibes it became a matter of flipping over the
helm and jibe back to correct course.  Another advantage is with casual
sailing with less experienced crew, I use the Boom Break whenever wind over
15 and let the crew helm the boat downwind.  It’s a nice teaching aid
without breaking boat parts.

OK rereading my own message I sound like the sales guy for this item but I
just became more convinced over time for its utility.

Something to consider 

Stephen Thorne
DejaVu’
34+

On Sat, Oct 31, 2020 at 2:23 AM Josh Muckley  wrote:

> A preventer at the aft most end/tip of the boom works best and avoids the
> risk or breaking the boom in the middle.
>
> Often times the preventer is rigged after the sail is set and as such now
> the end of the boom is out of reach.  At painter can/should be attached to
> the end of the boom and fitted such that it can be stowed under or to the
> side of the boom.  It's length is of little relevance as long as you can
> reach it with the boom fully out.
>
> The actual preventer is best rigged to a bow cleat or other forward
> fitting.  A turning block allows you to run the line aft and control the
> tension from the cockpit instead of going forward.  The working end of the
> preventer can also be stored on the rail just aft of midship in
> anticipation of deployment.
>
> Setting the preventer requires removing the painter from the stowage on
> the boom, removing the preventer from its stowage on the rail, and
> attaching them together.  Harden up on the line led aft to the cockpit.
>
> Jibes require moving the preventer around the mast or having a second one
> staged on the other side.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sat, Oct 31, 2020, 02:05 Peter McMinn  wrote:
>
>> Hey group, I'd like to install a preventer on our 37. What's the wisdom
>> on positioning the block on the boom?--
>> Peter McMinn
>>
>>  _/)
>>
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution
>> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Liquid rubber on hatch update

[joe]

Some time ago I posted about putting some liquid rubber intended as an 
electrical sealer on my forward hatch where it had a persistent leak.

We have had enough rain from two different hurricanes to fill my yard up and 
*not one drop* of water has made it past the hatch onto the V-berth 

 

I rate this is a success! 

Note if your hatches are not cosmetically challenged and you want to try this, 
tape off the area so you only get it where you want it. It is really thick goop 
and you won’t be able to paint a thin line freehand. In my case this is a 
stop-gap until I send the hatch in for repair or get a new one and the black 
rubber doesn’t really stand out anyway.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

[David Knecht]

I really like the Seatalk-ng or NMEA 2000 networks for their simplicity and 
that is part of the reason I went with Raymarine for the chartplotter.  I could 
have mixed and matched but it seemed simpler to use one company if I needed 
support.   When I replaced my depth/speed transducer a few years ago, I found 
the Airmar DST800 triducer was a perfect match for the hole left from the old 
Raymarine device and with a simple adapter cable, I was able to run it to a 
Seatalk-ng port in the rear cabin with a long cable and the Airmar appeared on 
the network with no additional wiring.  Adding a ST60 display on the cockpit 
wall was equally simple.  

The only thing that might sway that decision on Raymarine is the length of the 
main wiring harness for my Raymarine e95 chartplotter.  It was so short that I 
had to lower the chartplotter from its intended position to get the end of the 
cable to come out far enough from the Edson pedestal that I could splice on 
longer wires to get to the compartments in the back where the rest of the 
network interface and power was mounted.  Then I could raise the chartplotter 
again to its correct position.  I don’t know if those have changed, but that 
short wiring harness has been a major PITA.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 2, 2020, at 8:49 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> 
> I have to agree with Neil
>  
> Persistence came with a one year old Garmin GPSMAP 740 chart plotter at helm. 
>  We replaced the nav station Furuno GPS with a  RAymarine chart plotter as 
> well.  Both my wife and I prefer the interface of the Garmin over the 
> RAymarine.  One was purchased 2013 and the other 2014 and both are touch 
> screen.  We like both but prefer the Garmin
>  
> For the wind/depth/speed we have always liked Raymarine.  Had ST40s, then 
> next boat ST60 series and now i50/i60.  These are easy to use and work well.  
> I really preferred the simplicity of the ST60 over the need to buy hubs and 
> networking items for the i50/60 instruments though.  Boat came with B 
> wind/speed/depth.  The multifunction repeater functionality was nice but the 
> system was complicated.  The displays were fading and replacement displays 
> difficult (impossible) to get.  The newer displays were not compatible with 
> the older unites as well.  When we removed the B system there was a LOT of 
> wiring and a server box of some sort.  It would be difficult to re-install 
> that set without having someone very knowledgeable on hand
>  
> My favourites were the ST50/ST60 series.  Easy to use, dead simple to install 
> and very nearly bulletproof
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com 
>  
>  
>  

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Dennis C.]

Charlie,

2 thoughts.

First, my goto racing 155's have been a North Mylar/Kevlar triradial and a
local loft's (now an Ullman affiliate) Pentex triradial.  My gut feel has
always been the old Pentex was faster.  Pentex is a high tech Dacron.  The
North was made in their factory in Sri Lanka.  I personally like triradial
racing sails.

Second, my 20 year old cross cut Dacron cruising 155 was shredded in
Hurricane Sally.  I got quotes for a new "plain Jane" crosscut 155 from
North and Ullman in Louisiana and a local loft in Pensacola.  The local
loft was about 70% of the cost.  I'm going with the Pensacola loft.  The
sailmaker meticulously measured for the sail.  The sail will be made in the
Quantum factory in Sri Lanka.  Delivery in 4-6 weeks.

Now, my thoughts on offshore made sails.  As long as the boat is measured
by a local sailmaker and the local sailmaker stands behind the sail, I
think offshore manufacture is a good way to go.
The local sailmaker designs the sail for your boat, local conditions and
your inputs.  He then sends the digital design to the offshore factoryIt's
my feeling that the big sail factories in Sri Lanka, etc. have
proceduralized manufacturing and quality control.  That may not exist in a
local loft.

My North 155 (Sri Lanka) was very well made.  The only quality issue I've
had with a sail was with one sewn in a local loft. The sailmaker forgot to
sew the web strap reinforcements on the tack.  The tack let go during a
race costing me a spot on the podium.  The quality controlprocedures in an
offshore factory probably would have caught that omission.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 5:14 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK--my 5 yr old 3Di North 155 head sail is almost dead--especially after a
> tear along the foot during a race on Halloween.
>
> I think I want to go with a non-laminate sail (their life locally seems to
> be around 5 years in my use of them) and since I mostly club-race and maybe
> CRW, I am not going with a 'Grand Prix' sail of any kind. I'd just like to
> get more years out of my headsail than the 5 yr average I have had over the
> last 15 years with laminate sails.
>
> I know that Hood has been purchased by Quantum but I don't know if they
> maintained the high 'denier(?) Dacron reinforced with Vectran that Hood
> used.
>
> Thoughts from the list on this would be appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

[Hoyt, Mike]

I have to agree with Neil

Persistence came with a one year old Garmin GPSMAP 740 chart plotter at helm.  
We replaced the nav station Furuno GPS with a  RAymarine chart plotter as well. 
 Both my wife and I prefer the interface of the Garmin over the RAymarine.  One 
was purchased 2013 and the other 2014 and both are touch screen.  We like both 
but prefer the Garmin

For the wind/depth/speed we have always liked Raymarine.  Had ST40s, then next 
boat ST60 series and now i50/i60.  These are easy to use and work well.  I 
really preferred the simplicity of the ST60 over the need to buy hubs and 
networking items for the i50/60 instruments though.  Boat came with B 
wind/speed/depth.  The multifunction repeater functionality was nice but the 
system was complicated.  The displays were fading and replacement displays 
difficult (impossible) to get.  The newer displays were not compatible with the 
older unites as well.  When we removed the B system there was a LOT of wiring 
and a server box of some sort.  It would be difficult to re-install that set 
without having someone very knowledgeable on hand

My favourites were the ST50/ST60 series.  Easy to use, dead simple to install 
and very nearly bulletproof

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com



From: schiller 
Sent: October 30, 2020 11:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

Joel,

Yes.  Our C 35-3 has ST50 Tridata and ST60 Wind along with an S1/ST6001 
Autopilot.  We have Seatalk ng/Seatalk/NEMA 2000 devices all talking together.  
I plan on adding a Milltech Marine AIS Transponder into the system next year.

Having played with both Raymarine and Garmin chartplotters, I still prefer the 
Garmin as long as it talks to all of the rest of the system.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 10/30/2020 8:09 PM, Joel Delamirande wrote:
So it raymarine for you

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 8:05 PM schiller 
mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>> wrote:
Bill,

Yes.  After our experience, Glenn contacted Raymarine to inquire about a "night 
mode" and their response was "well, just turn the brightness down".  I agree 
that I wouldn't put Garmin wind/Depth/Speed on the boat due to their hard 
proprietary stance.  I do like my Garmin GPS devices and I find that it 
interfaces just fine with my Seatalk ng system.

It is pretty embarrassing to do circles in front of a freighter.  He was still 
probably close to a mile away and Glenn's AIS was active but I'm sure that the 
freighter pilot was thinking WTF?


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 10/30/2020 7:41 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
You just hit on one of my pet peeves .Garmin does seem to have this in a lot of 
their instruments, but Raymarine, B, and Simrad are in the dark . Literally. 
What drives me crazy, is that for a few bucks, they could incorporate night 
mode, or light intensity adjustment. One of the worst aspects, is that when you 
turn your display down in the evening, and turn it on the next morning, you 
can't see a darn thing. It is so avoidable.
Bill Coleman
Erie

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020, 7:30 PM schiller 
mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>> wrote:
I have always been partial to Garmin chartplotters and Raymarine 
wind/speed/depth.  We have them all talking through the Seatalk ng network.

We had an interesting experience with Glenn Gambel's C 36 going over to 
Milwaukee for the Queens cup in 2018 with his new Raymarine chartplotter.  As 
it got dark no one noticed how high the intensity of the display was until we 
came up on an ore freighter.  Glenn was at the helm and as he tried to go heads 
out to locate the freighter he was night blinded by the display and became 
disoriented enough that we made two complete circles in front of this 
freighter.  Glenn finally asked for someone else to take the helm and I took 
over and just straightened out the wheel until we regained some awareness of 
where we were.  It seemed the display went from manageable to blinding almost 
instantaneously.  My Garmin's have always gone into night mode at sundown and 
now I appreciate that.  We did finally get the intensity down to non-blinding.  
The freighter shined us with his spot just to see if we were having issues.  He 
had to be wondering what the hell we were doing.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 10/30/2020 10:42 AM, David Knecht wrote:
I have had B and Raymarine chart plotters and they both have advantages and 
disadvantages, so no clear winner for me.  I found the Raymarine a bit more 
intuitive, but you get used to the idiosynchracies of either types as you use 
them.  The one thing I have found really important is if you get a touchscreen 
model, make sure it also has backup buttons and knobs for control.  I have 
periodically had my touchscreen refuse to respond to touch input, but I can use 
the buttons/knobs to make it work when that happens.  Some models only work 

Stus-List Fridge fix

[Bruce Whitmore]

Hello all,

It's been a long time since I posted here - just crazy busy with work.

At any rate, the plate in our fridge has been tending to frost up, and when
I got the boat back from the yard, it built up very quickly.  I knew the
seal on the top were good, and we even place a rubber mat on top to help
seal and insulate it.

So, kept wondering how the air was getting in.  I decided to caulk the
joint at the underside of the countertop and the fridge box (i.e., inside
the fridge).  It was interesting trying to get the caulk gun in position
and such, and it took 1 1/2 tubes, of latex mildew resistant caulk, but it
worked.

Even at the lowest setting,  the fridge maintains a 41 degree temperature,
and frost formation has dropped way down.

Its an easy project with a great return IMHO.

Hoping you find the helpful,

Bruce Whitmore
Astralis
1994 C 37/40+

On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 12:37 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> test 1
>
> CS
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu