Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

The OEM non-skid on my boat was already smooth from foot traffic.   The only 
places where it needed sanding was where people don't walk.   It sanded smooth, 
easily with sand paper and much easier than any epoxy. 

If you want to add some tooth to your non-skid, a scotchbrite pad works 
wonders.  It will scuff up the paint, leave a tooth and not remove the nubs so 
much.

BTW, I repaired some wet core deck areas and fixed stress cracks under the 
stanchions, replacing windows, so I'm painting the whole deck.  I'm adding 
Softsand to the paint to add a good texture.  It's a great result, but my 
project is stalled until the weather gets above 50 degrees.  Getting closer.   

Here's a great demo for Softsand:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWqwi2q94pU

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute, 1989 C 34R



> On 02/26/2021 5:40 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
>  
> Sorry if this is a duplicate, but I sent the message below but didn't 
> receive it from the list.  Just wondering if anyone got it.  And curious 
> about an answer as well.
> Ron
>  
> This brings up a question I've been wondering about:  How does one 
> effectively sand non-skid portions of the deck?  I can't see how the 
> sandpaper would get into the stipled surface.  Or is there an alternative to 
> sandpaper that I'm not aware of?
> I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding 
> would only knock the tops off the non-skid.  What gives the "bite" for the 
> paint to hold in the depressed parts?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>  
>  
>  
> On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> I just had my decks painted this year.  They painted each part 
> separately.   Stripped and sanded everything down.  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Previous owner did my decks with Interdeck. Had it done by a pro but looks 
great. Problem is he just did side decks and used gray. So original cabin top 
and cockpit is white. Will be redoing all in the future. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 26, 2021, at 5:41 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is a duplicate, but I sent the message below but didn't receive 
> it from the list.  Just wondering if anyone got it.  And curious about an 
> answer as well.
> Ron
> 
> This brings up a question I've been wondering about:  How does one 
> effectively sand non-skid portions of the deck?  I can't see how the 
> sandpaper would get into the stipled surface.  Or is there an alternative to 
> sandpaper that I'm not aware of?
> I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding would 
> only knock the tops off the non-skid.  What gives the "bite" for the paint to 
> hold in the depressed parts?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> I just had my decks painted this year.  They painted each part separately.   
> Stripped and sanded everything down.  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Sorry if this is a duplicate, but I sent the message below but didn't receive 
it from the list.  Just wondering if anyone got it.  And curious about an 
answer as well.Ron
This brings up a question I've been wondering about:  How does one effectively 
sand non-skid portions of the deck?  I can't see how the sandpaper would get 
into the stipled surface.  Or is there an alternative to sandpaper that I'm not 
aware of?I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding 
would only knock the tops off the non-skid.  What gives the "bite" for the 
paint to hold in the depressed parts?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL



On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:   
I just had my decks painted this year.  They painted each part separately.   
Stripped and sanded everything down.    Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anchor chain hook on bow?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I mounted one of these between the locker and the 
roller.  I bungie it  up when dropping and let it 
ride on the chain on the way up.  I also use it 
to take the tension off the windlass any time the anchor is set or up.


https://www.fisheriessupply.com/lewmar-anchor-lock/66840069

Tom B

At 01:25 PM 2/26/2021, you wrote:
Hi Bruce- Did you get any suggestions?  I have 
the same issue and have not found a solution I like yet.  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[]


On Jan 8, 2020, at 10:40 PM, bwhitmore via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hello all,

I was reading through one of the sailing 
magazines, and there was commentary about the 
value of a windlass or "at least an anchor 
chain hook" you can use to take a break when hoisting anchor.


While I don't feel the need for a windlass yet, 
I have had situations when raising the anchor 
where I've needed to wrap chain around one of 
the forward cleats because a wind gust is 
blowing me off.  This usually results in some 
chain finding its way through my hands, and 
much more concerning is the chance for hands to 
be caught between the chain and the cleat with 
crushingly obvious consequences.  If I had the 
ability to easily hook the chain to hold it 
while the bow swings off the wind or for the 
purposes of pulling the hook out of the mud would be helpful.


Is there such a hook that can be permanently 
mounted on the bow/anchor roller where I could 
simply put the chain under moderate tension for 
a minute or two while things get sorted out?


Thanks in advance for your insights,

Bruce Whitmore
C 37/40+ "Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL


Sent from Samsung tablet.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 
your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs 
involved.  If you want to show your support to 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dennis;

 

Have you ever used Interdeck? That’s what the decks on both my 38 and 25 were 
repainted with. It’s already a sort of semi gloss finish. We added Interlux 
non-skip powder for the non-skid areas of the deck (which is almost the whole 
thing on a 25). Not as many colors as Brightside, but do you really want a deck 
that is anything but off white, light beige, or very light grey here in the 
sunny south?

 

After a few years I do have some small areas where the paint is not sticking to 
the deck; probably due to not adequately removing the amine blush left after 
removal/install of some deck hardware. But that’s my fault. Any one part paint 
will not stick well over epoxy.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:24 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting

 

Just a note on deck painting.  If you decide to use a gloss paint such as 
Interlux Brightsides, do your research on the amount of flattener you should 
use.  You'd be surprised at the amount.  I did a deck paint job a few years ago 
using a 1:1 paint:flattener ratio.  It was still a bit bright.

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anchor chain hook on bow?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fwiw I have a mantus chain hook tied to a spare dock line. I cleat  off the
line.

On Fri, Feb 26, 2021 at 4:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bruce- Did you get any suggestions?  I have the same issue and have not
> found a solution I like yet.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jan 8, 2020, at 10:40 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I was reading through one of the sailing magazines, and there was
> commentary about the value of a windlass or "at least an anchor chain hook"
> you can use to take a break when hoisting anchor.
>
> While I don't feel the need for a windlass yet, I have had situations when
> raising the anchor where I've needed to wrap chain around one of the
> forward cleats because a wind gust is blowing me off.  This usually results
> in some chain finding its way through my hands, and much more concerning is
> the chance for hands to be caught between the chain and the cleat with
> crushingly obvious consequences.  If I had the ability to easily hook the
> chain to hold it while the bow swings off the wind or for the purposes of
> pulling the hook out of the mud would be helpful.
>
> Is there such a hook that can be permanently mounted on the bow/anchor
> roller where I could simply put the chain under moderate tension for a
> minute or two while things get sorted out?
>
> Thanks in advance for your insights,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anchor chain hook on bow?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce- Did you get any suggestions?  I have the same issue and have not 
found a solution I like yet.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jan 8, 2020, at 10:40 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I was reading through one of the sailing magazines, and there was commentary 
> about the value of a windlass or "at least an anchor chain hook" you can use 
> to take a break when hoisting anchor.  
> 
> While I don't feel the need for a windlass yet, I have had situations when 
> raising the anchor where I've needed to wrap chain around one of the forward 
> cleats because a wind gust is blowing me off.  This usually results in some 
> chain finding its way through my hands, and much more concerning is the 
> chance for hands to be caught between the chain and the cleat with crushingly 
> obvious consequences.  If I had the ability to easily hook the chain to hold 
> it while the bow swings off the wind or for the purposes of pulling the hook 
> out of the mud would be helpful.  
> 
> Is there such a hook that can be permanently mounted on the bow/anchor roller 
> where I could simply put the chain under moderate tension for a minute or two 
> while things get sorted out?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your insights,
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

You did not tell us what size headsail you went with, that was the most 
discussed aspect of the whole diatribe!

( I think you mean Nordac?) those are usually pretty robust sails.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 3:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind

 

Just a short note to thanks all who chimed in on my head sail question. 

 

The short story is that I decided to go with a 3Di Nordic composite sail 
(so-called light/medium) that has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 16 knots. The light 
wind equivalent has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 12 knots and I already have a 
lightly used light air (maximum AWS of ~ 8 knots) so I opted for the lt./med 
since the light air was covered and the expected coastal winds are about 2 
knots higher (7 vs. 5.5 knots) than those in the upper Neuse river where I have 
done most of my racing to date. I also have an almost new 140% (Hood Vectran) 
and a bullet proof 90% from North. Thus I have a reasonable (IMHO) set of 
upwind sails for my racer/cruiser for local club racing. I also have both a 3/4 
oz. masthead symmetrical kite and a smaller, stronger reaching kite. 

 

I appreciate the comments on changing head sails to meet the conditions, 
etc.,--in an ideal world this is the solution. OTOH, in my world, finding 
enough KNOWLEDGEABLE crew (6+ depending on wind) to race is almost impossible 
for local regattas and not that easy even for something like CRW. 

 

So here is how I compromise, to wit:

 

1). All my head sails are used on a furler. Thus headsail changes on the fly 
are not possible even on the rare days that my crew is both numerous and 
knowledgeable. All buoy races are done with the headsail that crosses the 
starting line--although it may get changed between races. 

 

2). Most of my racing is now in non-spin. SAFELY handling a mast head kite in 
winds > 12 knots with limited crew (number and knowledge) is not easy and when 
the inevitable goes 'awry', people can and do get hurt--one of my most 
experienced crew was slammed to the foredeck by an errant kite guy a few years 
ago and was evaluated for a concussion at a local hospital as soon as we got 
off the water. Fortunately he was OK but this is not something I want to 
repeat. Note he was my most experienced crew!

 

3). Since I cannot change head sails on the fly (see 1), I prefer to use the 
largest headsail I can since I need it for downwind sail area. I find it easier 
and quicker to reef the main and rarely furl the headsail to reduce sail area 
upwind. 

 

4). The bottom is painted yearly and scrubbed/wiped down before each race by a 
diver. Currently I use Petit Vivid, a hard ablative and plan to try Odyssey 
this year.

 

5). I usually have 5-6 regular crew, most of whom have been racing with me for 
5-10 years. The only ones that I have lost left for medical reasons, moved out 
of the area or went cruising. Believe me, I know the importance of good crew as 
well as how to keep them on board. Note that this is 1-2 shy of the 8 
knowledgeable crew I believe are required to race my boat to her potential, 
especially in a breeze.

 

I am sure there are more compromises in my racing efforts but even with these 
above, I find after ~ 25 years of club racing that I still enjoy the thrill of 
the competition, the joy of occasionally passing or even beating a competitor 
and, of course, the agony of analyzing WTF we messed up as we had back to the 
dock for sandwiches and adult beverages!! Even in the latter case, I am 
confident that there will always be another race where there is the potential 
to do better! Like a golfer, all it takes is one good shot on the course to 
make him/her return. For a club racer, all it takes is a well sailed, 
competitive race for me to return.

 

So that's my current racing story and the background of my choice for the head 
sail.

 

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

 

 

 

 

 





 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Just a short note to thanks all who chimed in on my head sail question. 
The short story is that I decided to go with a 3Di Nordic composite sail 
(so-called light/medium) that has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 16 knots. The light 
wind equivalent has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 12 knots and I already have a 
lightly used light air (maximum AWS of ~ 8 knots) so I opted for the lt./med 
since the light air was covered and the expected coastal winds are about 2 
knots higher (7 vs. 5.5 knots) than those in the upper Neuse river where I have 
done most of my racing to date. I also have an almost new 140% (Hood Vectran) 
and a bullet proof 90% from North. Thus I have a reasonable (IMHO) set of 
upwind sails for my racer/cruiser for local club racing. I also have both a 3/4 
oz. masthead symmetrical kite and a smaller, stronger reaching kite. 
I appreciate the comments on changing head sails to meet the conditions, 
etc.,--in an ideal world this is the solution. OTOH, in my world, finding 
enough KNOWLEDGEABLE crew (6+ depending on wind) to race is almost impossible 
for local regattas and not that easy even for something like CRW. 
So here is how I compromise, to wit:
1). All my head sails are used on a furler. Thus headsail changes on the fly 
are not possible even on the rare days that my crew is both numerous and 
knowledgeable. All buoy races are done with the headsail that crosses the 
starting line--although it may get changed between races. 
2). Most of my racing is now in non-spin. SAFELY handling a mast head kite in 
winds > 12 knots with limited crew (number and knowledge) is not easy and when 
the inevitable goes 'awry', people can and do get hurt--one of my most 
experienced crew was slammed to the foredeck by an errant kite guy a few years 
ago and was evaluated for a concussion at a local hospital as soon as we got 
off the water. Fortunately he was OK but this is not something I want to 
repeat. Note he was my most experienced crew!
3). Since I cannot change head sails on the fly (see 1), I prefer to use the 
largest headsail I can since I need it for downwind sail area. I find it easier 
and quicker to reef the main and rarely furl the headsail to reduce sail area 
upwind. 
4). The bottom is painted yearly and scrubbed/wiped down before each race by a 
diver. Currently I use Petit Vivid, a hard ablative and plan to try Odyssey 
this year.
5). I usually have 5-6 regular crew, most of whom have been racing with me for 
5-10 years. The only ones that I have lost left for medical reasons, moved out 
of the area or went cruising. Believe me, I know the importance of good crew as 
well as how to keep them on board. Note that this is 1-2 shy of the 8 
knowledgeable crew I believe are required to race my boat to her potential, 
especially in a breeze.
I am sure there are more compromises in my racing efforts but even with these 
above, I find after ~ 25 years of club racing that I still enjoy the thrill of 
the competition, the joy of occasionally passing or even beating a competitor 
and, of course, the agony of analyzing WTF we messed up as we had back to the 
dock for sandwiches and adult beverages!! Even in the latter case, I am 
confident that there will always be another race where there is the potential 
to do better! Like a golfer, all it takes is one good shot on the course to 
make him/her return. For a club racer, all it takes is a well sailed, 
competitive race for me to return.
So that's my current racing story and the background of my choice for the head 
sail.

Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36 XL/kcb








Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Greg Alimenti via CnC-List]

80-120 grit sandpaper on a palm sander will take the original molded in nonskid 
off without a problem. I didn’t use flattener with Awlgrip as the texture 
knocks down the reflection anyway (50/50 mix of fine/course additive 
“Griptex”).  A painted deck should last fifteen years.  I did mine in 2001 and 
2017.  The nonskid held up fine.  It was the faded cabin top and accumulated 
nicks and scratches that bothered me.

Greg Alimenti
Cara Mia
C 29-1

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 2:40 PM
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting

This brings up a question I've been wondering about:  How does one effectively 
sand non-skid portions of the deck?  I can't see how the sandpaper would get 
into the stipled surface.  Or is there an alternative to sandpaper that I'm not 
aware of?
I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding would 
only knock the tops off the non-skid.  What gives the "bite" for the paint to 
hold in the depressed parts?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I just had my decks painted this year.  They painted each part separately.   
Stripped and sanded everything down.  Then masked off the non skid areas to 
prime and finish the smooth areas before masking off the newly finished areas 
and addressing the non skid.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

On mine, they took the gelcoat texture right down.  They said it was the only 
way to guarantee good adhesion.   The deck was painted during the POs tenure by 
roll and tip method and they tried to just scotch pad it, prime and finish but, 
you could see where the paint was lifting in the lows of the non skid areas.  
It wasn't bad, you could just see the primer in those areas and they were small 
and uniform.  So, the non skid just appeared to be a different shade of white.  
Eventually, the whole paintjob was failing.  I'd say it lasted 10 to 12 years 
though.  Of course, the downside is that it made the next paintjob (this one) a 
lot more difficult... 

-- Original Message --
From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 19:39:51 + (UTC)


 This brings up a question I've been wondering about:  How does one effectively 
sand non-skid portions of the deck?  I can't see how the sandpaper would get 
into the stipled surface.  Or is there an alternative to sandpaper that I'm not 
aware of?I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding 
would only knock the tops off the non-skid.  What gives the "bite" for the 
paint to hold in the depressed parts?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL  On Friday, 
February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote: I just had my decks painted this year.  They 
painted each part separately.   Stripped and sanded everything down.  Then 
masked off the non skid areas to prime and finish the smooth areas before 
masking off the newly finished areas and addressing the non skid.  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 This brings up a question I've been wondering about:  How does one effectively 
sand non-skid portions of the deck?  I can't see how the sandpaper would get 
into the stipled surface.  Or is there an alternative to sandpaper that I'm not 
aware of?I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding 
would only knock the tops off the non-skid.  What gives the "bite" for the 
paint to hold in the depressed parts?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
I just had my decks painted this year.  They painted each part separately.   
Stripped and sanded everything down.  Then masked off the non skid areas to 
prime and finish the smooth areas before masking off the newly finished areas 
and addressing the non skid. 
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

TotalBoat Wet Edge Topside Paint (jamestowndistributors.com) 
 

 

The BEST WAY TO ROLL   & TIP 
Topside Paint on Your Boat - YouTube

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:20 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

Any idea what it was called?

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: February-26-21 10:32 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John McCrea mailto:johnmcc...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

Jamestown Marine in RI has a one-part topside paint that a club member used and 
it came out really nice. They have online tutorials for application. You would 
never know it was rolled and tipped. Good luck. 

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 11:09 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

I had Imzadi painted with Alexseal paint about 5 years ago, on the 
recommendation of the guys who were doing the painting. It seems to be an 
equivalent to Awlgrip in shine and (at least on their experience using it) 
durability, at about half the cost of Awlgrip. They also said it is a bit 
easier to apply. It still cost me about $125 a foot to get the boat painted.

 

I rolled and tipped a Tanzer about 12 years ago using Rustoleum marine enamel. 
Practical Sailor did paint test/comparison, and recommended Valspar industrial 
enamel over Brightside as the best one part paint. I seem to recall that, 
besides being less expensive, you can tint the Valspar to achieve a custom 
color. Rustoleum was the Practical Sailor best buy. $11 a quart vs. $40+, and 
just as shiny. The Tanzer still looks good, except for some scratches. It was 
the first boat I ever rolled and tipped, and that was pretty easy on a small 
hull. Much easier than spraying.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 10:15 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

If you are paying someone to paint your boat, it will be expensive even with 
latex house paint. Don’t pay a pro big $$$ to spray on crappy paint.

There are cheaper marine paints around. Isn’t AlexSeal a lower price boat 
paint? Rustoleum makes lower cost boat paint as well.

* I think some work boats actually do get painted with exterior house paint, 
they know the boats will get beat on and thus not worth a yacht level finish.

 

My Imron paint was done in 1987 and looks decent where the boat hasn’t got 
scratched up (hit and run in Annapolis)

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Virtual Rendezvous

[Stu via CnC-List]

Well it looks like Tuesday night is best for the majority of those interested.  

You are invited to attend and meet some of the list subscribers - 
When: Tuesday, March 2, 2021 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada) 

Please register in advance for this meeting:
https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZYsf-qtrj4iE9LXUBj7mpO6xs2n7sRj75Yd 

After registering, you will receive instructions containing information about 
joining the meeting.

Hope to have a big turnout.  

Stay safe & healthy
StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just a note on deck painting.  If you decide to use a gloss paint such as
Interlux Brightsides, do your research on the amount of flattener you
should use.  You'd be surprised at the amount.  I did a deck paint job a
few years ago using a 1:1 paint:flattener ratio.  It was still a bit bright.
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I think you are correct if doing an entire deck, skid and non-skid. 
In my case, my deck was pretty good when I needed to redo the non-skid and I 
chose Kiwi for that. The yard extended the non-skid into the skid on all the 
horizontal/mostly horizontal surfaces as they did the job. Thus there is not 
much skid area to paint, mostly vertical surfaces and some 'trim' areas around 
the non-skid paint--my guess is that about a quart of skid paint would be 
plenty. Doing the entire deck is not necessary IMHO and as others have noted 
would be very EXPENSIVE.

Charlie



-Original Message-
From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Sent: Thu, Feb 25, 2021 8:05 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting

  I understand about putting on non-skid, but isn't the complete deck painted 
first using the non-skid paint, prior to taping off and painting as non-skid? 
Or is the deck painted completely with one paint, taped off and non-skid 
painted using a different paint?       Bob  
  On 02/25/2021 7:57 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
wrote:           Charlie,   Same question for me (37). The previous owner did 
wonderful prep and taping, but coverage is thin. I’ll probably put on another 
coat of Kiwi.   
   On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 4:10 PM cenelson via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:  
  My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I had a applied by a 
local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and it still is in great 
shape.      OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so 
little of it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be time and money 
consuming if done by a yard.       I am considering having it done by someone 
without taping all the non-skid off and using a high quality paint, single or 2 
part paint and a brush.       Is this likely to work for a decent 10 ft look or 
is it likely to be a disaster?       Any recommendations on 1 or 2 part paints, 
manufacturers, etc.       Charlie Nelson   Water Phantom   1995 C 36 XL/kcb   
    
 
 
 Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS   Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show 
your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --    
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu 
   -- 
   Peter McMinn
   
                            _/)   
   
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Any idea what it was called?

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: February-26-21 10:32 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John McCrea 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

Jamestown Marine in RI has a one-part topside paint that a club member used and 
it came out really nice. They have online tutorials for application. You would 
never know it was rolled and tipped. Good luck. 

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 11:09 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

I had Imzadi painted with Alexseal paint about 5 years ago, on the 
recommendation of the guys who were doing the painting. It seems to be an 
equivalent to Awlgrip in shine and (at least on their experience using it) 
durability, at about half the cost of Awlgrip. They also said it is a bit 
easier to apply. It still cost me about $125 a foot to get the boat painted.

 

I rolled and tipped a Tanzer about 12 years ago using Rustoleum marine enamel. 
Practical Sailor did paint test/comparison, and recommended Valspar industrial 
enamel over Brightside as the best one part paint. I seem to recall that, 
besides being less expensive, you can tint the Valspar to achieve a custom 
color. Rustoleum was the Practical Sailor best buy. $11 a quart vs. $40+, and 
just as shiny. The Tanzer still looks good, except for some scratches. It was 
the first boat I ever rolled and tipped, and that was pretty easy on a small 
hull. Much easier than spraying.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 10:15 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

If you are paying someone to paint your boat, it will be expensive even with 
latex house paint. Don’t pay a pro big $$$ to spray on crappy paint.

There are cheaper marine paints around. Isn’t AlexSeal a lower price boat 
paint? Rustoleum makes lower cost boat paint as well.

* I think some work boats actually do get painted with exterior house paint, 
they know the boats will get beat on and thus not worth a yacht level finish.

 

My Imron paint was done in 1987 and looks decent where the boat hasn’t got 
scratched up (hit and run in Annapolis)

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Matthew via CnC-List]

David:

 

It sounds like your mounting/access issues are boat-specific, 
so I can’t offer anything there.  However, I agree with your assessment that 
the manual electric pump should be the one deepest in the bilge, and the 
automatic backstop should be higher up.  The idea with the automatic is to save 
the boat if you’re not there (or asleep), not keep the bilge dry.  Based on a 
recommendation from someone on this list, last year I purchased an Ultra pump 
switch for the automatic.  http://tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_infor 
 I haven’t installed it yet, and need to decide what kind of pump to pair it 
with.  The manually operated electric pump that came with the boat is a Jabsco 
diaphragm pump, which works well for this purpose. 

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 11:42 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pumps

 

Practical Sailor had an article recently about bilge pumps and I have three 
questions.

1.   They recommended two electric pumps: a lower capacity automatic as deep in 
bilge as possible and a second higher capacity wired to a switch higher up.  I 
am unconvinced by the logic.  I have had an automatic pump get stuck on, so it 
ran until the battery ran out of juice.  I worry that will happen more 
frequently with a deep automatic in the part of the bilge that will most 
frequently have water and crud.  I would argue for the opposite setup so I can 
pump out incidental rain water etc. at my discretion but the automatic will 
kick in when there is high water.

2.  On my boat, I have a small floor panel I can remove to access the bilge and 
my current pump (Whale super-sub which is the only pump I found that fits) is 
deep in the narrow bilge there.  If I were to try to put a second pump in, I 
think it would have to be somewhere else which means under the flooring and 
inaccessible which seems like a bad idea.  That flooring is a PITA to remove, 
since it is screwed down and to remove the flooring adjacent to the small 
panel, where a pump would make sense, I have to unbolt and support the table 
because the mast runs through it and the table bolts to the flooring.  That 
takes about 30 min minimum so I don’t think that is a good place for a pump one 
wants to access with some ease.  I could put it further back under the rear 
flooring which is more easily removed, but it would have to be a pump that sits 
low to fit.  Have others modified the floor attachment to make access to the 
space underneath easier?  

3.  If one has two pumps, it is OK to tie the outlets together through a Y 
valve with check valves?

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 

University of Connecticut 

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

U-3125

Storrs, CT 06269-3125

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Q3 No.  If both pumps are running simultaneously you probably won't have enough 
capacity in the primary hose to handle both.

Bob

> On 02/26/2021 11:42 AM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Practical Sailor had an article recently about bilge pumps and I have 
> three questions.
> 1.   They recommended two electric pumps: a lower capacity automatic as 
> deep in bilge as possible and a second higher capacity wired to a switch 
> higher up.  I am unconvinced by the logic.  I have had an automatic pump get 
> stuck on, so it ran until the battery ran out of juice.  I worry that will 
> happen more frequently with a deep automatic in the part of the bilge that 
> will most frequently have water and crud.  I would argue for the opposite 
> setup so I can pump out incidental rain water etc. at my discretion but the 
> automatic will kick in when there is high water.
> 2.  On my boat, I have a small floor panel I can remove to access the 
> bilge and my current pump (Whale super-sub which is the only pump I found 
> that fits) is deep in the narrow bilge there.  If I were to try to put a 
> second pump in, I think it would have to be somewhere else which means under 
> the flooring and inaccessible which seems like a bad idea.  That flooring is 
> a PITA to remove, since it is screwed down and to remove the flooring 
> adjacent to the small panel, where a pump would make sense, I have to unbolt 
> and support the table because the mast runs through it and the table bolts to 
> the flooring.  That takes about 30 min minimum so I don’t think that is a 
> good place for a pump one wants to access with some ease.  I could put it 
> further back under the rear flooring which is more easily removed, but it 
> would have to be a pump that sits low to fit.  Have others modified the floor 
> attachment to make access to the space underneath easier?  
> 3.  If one has two pumps, it is OK to tie the outlets together through a 
> Y valve with check valves?
> 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Bilge pumps

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Practical Sailor had an article recently about bilge pumps and I have three 
questions.
1.   They recommended two electric pumps: a lower capacity automatic as deep in 
bilge as possible and a second higher capacity wired to a switch higher up.  I 
am unconvinced by the logic.  I have had an automatic pump get stuck on, so it 
ran until the battery ran out of juice.  I worry that will happen more 
frequently with a deep automatic in the part of the bilge that will most 
frequently have water and crud.  I would argue for the opposite setup so I can 
pump out incidental rain water etc. at my discretion but the automatic will 
kick in when there is high water.
2.  On my boat, I have a small floor panel I can remove to access the bilge and 
my current pump (Whale super-sub which is the only pump I found that fits) is 
deep in the narrow bilge there.  If I were to try to put a second pump in, I 
think it would have to be somewhere else which means under the flooring and 
inaccessible which seems like a bad idea.  That flooring is a PITA to remove, 
since it is screwed down and to remove the flooring adjacent to the small 
panel, where a pump would make sense, I have to unbolt and support the table 
because the mast runs through it and the table bolts to the flooring.  That 
takes about 30 min minimum so I don’t think that is a good place for a pump one 
wants to access with some ease.  I could put it further back under the rear 
flooring which is more easily removed, but it would have to be a pump that sits 
low to fit.  Have others modified the floor attachment to make access to the 
space underneath easier?  
3.  If one has two pumps, it is OK to tie the outlets together through a Y 
valve with check valves?

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





Dr. David Knecht
Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Virtual Rendezvous

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have no evening commitments all that week, so whatever is good for me.

Joe


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 9:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Virtual Rendezvous

Interested either day.

Chuck Scheaffer
On 02/25/2021 9:28 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I am interested and can do Tuesday but not Wednesday.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT
[cid:image001.png@01D70C2E.3CB34710]


On Feb 25, 2021, at 9:22 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Available Tuesday Only but would love to join on

John Conklin


On Feb 25, 2021, at 9:15 AM, Stu via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Is anyone interested in a virtual Zoom rendezvous next week – say Tues or Wed 
nite?

Stay safe & healthy
Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

An FYI – Some of these paints are barely a step below chemical warfare agents. 
Back when I had a summer job at a boatbuilder we had a long air hose and a mask 
supplied with pressurized air for some painting jobs, even the best gas mask 
was NOT good enough.
If this is a DIY job take care. Boatbuilding back in the day used to lead to 
quite a reduced lifespan ☹

Joe
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I would think you might get away with this, doing on a cool day, no wind (and 
in that case, no bugs!)  & out of the Sun. A little retarder in the paint would 
allow it to level better.

Best to experiment on something other than your boat first.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: cenelson via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 7:11 PM
To: C List
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus-List Deck painting

 

My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I had a applied by a 
local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and it still is in great 
shape.

 

OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so little of 
it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be time and money consuming 
if done by a yard.

 

I am considering having it done by someone without taping all the non-skid off 
and using a high quality paint, single or 2 part paint and a brush.

 

Is this likely to work for a decent 10 ft look or is it likely to be a disaster?

 

Any recommendations on 1 or 2 part paints, manufacturers, etc.

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

 




Sent   
from the all new Aol app for iOS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I recall seeing one of those systems on a large powerboat in Erie, it had been 
brought up from the Caribbean. It probably did no good in fresh water, I think 
they are suppose to reduce the incidence of barnacles. Makes little ticking 
noises on the hull .  I am guessing for our use it is kind of looking for the 
Holy Grail.

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: J.P. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 5:32 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: ja...@jpiworldwide.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

Hi All,

 

I looked at this gadget recently to “protect” bottom paint… any validity to it?

 

https://sonihull.com/sonihull-systems/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_pWgt4uG7wIVSSCtBh2N6AKZEAAYASAAEgIu8fD_BwE
 

 

JP

S/V Alethea

C 43-1

 

From: dukatolla--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 2:14 PM
To: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
Cc: dukato...@hotmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

Ron have you looked into a 3m wrap? 

 

My Awlgrip is 20+ yrs old and only blemished b/w the Boot and Cove stripes.

 

I'm looking into for my old girl.

 

Cheers

 

JW

 

1970 C

1979 C

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Thursday, February 25, 2021, 04:31:56 p.m. EST, Ronald B. Frerker via 
CnC-List  wrote: 

 

 

That's a believeable story, especially if I were having it done at a place like 
PJs in Chicago.  But here on the prairie in southern IL, we don't have the 
expertise and labor is cheaper.

But I agree, if the labor is going to be costly, then it makes sense to go 
first class with the paint.

I may end up having to just roll and tip and get one of those 10ft paint jobs 
(where it looks good from 10ft away).

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Thursday, February 25, 2021, 02:36:50 PM CST, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote: 

 

 

I reviewed the invoices for painting Touche's topsides in 2011 and 2020.  The 
paint was less than 12% of the total cost.  Labor, prep, etc. dwarfed the paint 
cost.

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I just saw a  1982 37 sister ship close by, That was done with AxelSeal and 
with my limited paint knowledge all I can say it looked really nice! I am very 
sure that helped her sell pretty quick in about a month $38,500, with a nice 
sail inventory.  She’s heading ti the Keys !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat

On Feb 26, 2021, at 9:32 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Jamestown Marine in RI has a one-part topside paint that a club member used and 
it came out really nice. They have online tutorials for application. You would 
never know it was rolled and tipped. Good luck.

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 11:09 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

I had Imzadi painted with Alexseal paint about 5 years ago, on the 
recommendation of the guys who were doing the painting. It seems to be an 
equivalent to Awlgrip in shine and (at least on their experience using it) 
durability, at about half the cost of Awlgrip. They also said it is a bit 
easier to apply. It still cost me about $125 a foot to get the boat painted.

I rolled and tipped a Tanzer about 12 years ago using Rustoleum marine enamel. 
Practical Sailor did paint test/comparison, and recommended Valspar industrial 
enamel over Brightside as the best one part paint. I seem to recall that, 
besides being less expensive, you can tint the Valspar to achieve a custom 
color. Rustoleum was the Practical Sailor best buy. $11 a quart vs. $40+, and 
just as shiny. The Tanzer still looks good, except for some scratches. It was 
the first boat I ever rolled and tipped, and that was pretty easy on a small 
hull. Much easier than spraying.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 10:15 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

If you are paying someone to paint your boat, it will be expensive even with 
latex house paint. Don’t pay a pro big $$$ to spray on crappy paint.
There are cheaper marine paints around. Isn’t AlexSeal a lower price boat 
paint? Rustoleum makes lower cost boat paint as well.
* I think some work boats actually do get painted with exterior house paint, 
they know the boats will get beat on and thus not worth a yacht level finish.

My Imron paint was done in 1987 and looks decent where the boat hasn’t got 
scratched up (hit and run in Annapolis)


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Jamestown Marine in RI has a one-part topside paint that a club member used and 
it came out really nice. They have online tutorials for application. You would 
never know it was rolled and tipped. Good luck. 

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 11:09 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

I had Imzadi painted with Alexseal paint about 5 years ago, on the 
recommendation of the guys who were doing the painting. It seems to be an 
equivalent to Awlgrip in shine and (at least on their experience using it) 
durability, at about half the cost of Awlgrip. They also said it is a bit 
easier to apply. It still cost me about $125 a foot to get the boat painted.

 

I rolled and tipped a Tanzer about 12 years ago using Rustoleum marine enamel. 
Practical Sailor did paint test/comparison, and recommended Valspar industrial 
enamel over Brightside as the best one part paint. I seem to recall that, 
besides being less expensive, you can tint the Valspar to achieve a custom 
color. Rustoleum was the Practical Sailor best buy. $11 a quart vs. $40+, and 
just as shiny. The Tanzer still looks good, except for some scratches. It was 
the first boat I ever rolled and tipped, and that was pretty easy on a small 
hull. Much easier than spraying.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 10:15 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

 

If you are paying someone to paint your boat, it will be expensive even with 
latex house paint. Don’t pay a pro big $$$ to spray on crappy paint.

There are cheaper marine paints around. Isn’t AlexSeal a lower price boat 
paint? Rustoleum makes lower cost boat paint as well.

* I think some work boats actually do get painted with exterior house paint, 
they know the boats will get beat on and thus not worth a yacht level finish.

 

My Imron paint was done in 1987 and looks decent where the boat hasn’t got 
scratched up (hit and run in Annapolis)

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Bob, I just had my decks painted this year.  They painted each part 
separately.   Stripped and sanded everything down.  Then masked off the non 
skid areas to prime and finish the smooth areas before masking off the newly 
finished areas and addressing the non skid. I think they felt adhesion would be 
better for each area to have a good base to prime and then the finish to go 
right on the primer.  I'm  sure cost was part of it too.  Why pay for a 
finished coat you'd just have to sand, again, and paint over anyway?  Good 
paint ain't cheap and the extra labor to sand a nice new fished paint job is 
not very efficient. Thanks, Danny
 Original message From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/25/21  8:05 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Stus-List 
 Cc: Bob Mann  Subject: Stus-List 
Re: Deck painting 
  
   I understand about putting on non-skid, but isn't the complete deck painted 
first using the non-skid paint, prior to taping off and painting as non-skid? 
Or is the deck painted completely with one paint, taped off and non-skid 
painted using a different paint?
   
  
    
   
  
   Bob
   
   
   
On 02/25/2021 7:57 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
wrote:

   
 

   
 

   
Charlie,

   
Same question for me (37). The previous owner did wonderful prep and 
taping, but coverage is thin. I’ll probably put on another coat of Kiwi.

   
 
 
 
  On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 4:10 PM cenelson via CnC-List <
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
  
  
  
   My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I had a applied 
by a local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and it still is in 
great shape. 
   
 

   
OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so 
little of it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be time and money 
consuming if done by a yard.

   
 

   
I am considering having it done by someone without taping all the 
non-skid off and using a high quality paint, single or 2 part paint and a brush.

   
 

   
Is this likely to work for a decent 10 ft look or is it likely to be a 
disaster?

   
 

   
Any recommendations on 1 or 2 part paints, manufacturers, etc.

   
 

   
Charlie Nelson

   
Water Phantom

   
1995 C 36 XL/kcb

   
 

   



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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
   
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu