Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I recommend going with a loft near you. If the sails by Precision aren't
acceptable, you might not have any recourse. There's an advantage to having
a sailmaker come to your boat and make the measurements. After the sails
are made, they can go out with you and observe how they fly. They can make
any adjustments based on what they see. I use the local North loft, and the
owner has given me excellent service. Once I started using him for my
sails, I never went to anyone else to compare prices.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 7:00 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> HI All
>
> Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of Sydney BC
> in Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or duties.  Offer
> different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is attractive – approx
> 2 boat bucks
>
> www.precisionsailloft.com
> 
>
>
>
> Any comments or experience?
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!9GEvPGcdoVtzIPusTBMzdc-VduWyP0712wgRLyuKLS1M9yVIpsptnQkTRcSC-UUo2D0$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Forestay tension

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 For my 30-1, which has an aluminum tree stump for a mast, there is no 
adjustment at the mast base so the setting of rake is determined entirely by 
the forestay.The 37+ being 15yrs newer probably has a relatively thinner mast 
section, allowing pre-bend, and a mast base adjustment so the forestay would 
have to be adjusted in concert with the mast base and the pre-bend, if 
any.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL

On Monday, March 15, 2021, 06:31:48 PM CDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Rake can (and arguably should) be adjusted by moving the foot of the mast.  
This basically helps keep the mast centered in the deck at the partners.  
Unfortunately the mast shoe often makes doing this nearly impossible.  Of 
course changing the forestay length can also be a challenge.  Remember that 
changing rake will cause changes to other dynamics such as the halyard lead to 
the furler which may result in halyard wraps.  Fortunately most of our boats do 
not have swept spreaders or if they are it is only very slight.  Adding rake 
would shorten them.  Unless you recut the mailsail the boom will tip lower for 
the same leach tension.  Besides headroom, this can impact dodger clearance.
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I've emailed shipmate to find out exact name of company.  I don't want to 
badmouth a good company so hold my comment from previous email until I get 
confirmation.

Bob

> On 03/15/2021 11:03 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I just heard about them from a shipmate, at least I think it's the same 
> company. 
>  
> DON'T
>  
> If you ever get your sails they will be great but significant issues in 
> getting the product.  Check them out on line and via Better Business Bureau.
>  
> Bob
> 
> > > On 03/15/2021 9:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > 
> > HI All
> > 
> > Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of 
> > Sydney BC in Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or 
> > duties.  Offer different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is 
> > attractive – approx 2 boat buckshttp://www.precisionsailloft.com
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Any comments or experience?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > John and Maryann
> > 
> > Legacy III
> > 
> > 1982 C&C 34
> > 
> > Noank, CT
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> > with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I just heard about them from a shipmate, at least I think it's the same 
company. 

DON'T

If you ever get your sails they will be great but significant issues in getting 
the product.  Check them out on line and via Better Business Bureau.

Bob

> On 03/15/2021 9:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> HI All
> 
> Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of Sydney BC 
> in Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or duties.  Offer 
> different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is attractive – approx 2 
> boat buckshttp://www.precisionsailloft.com
> 
>  
> 
> Any comments or experience?
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C&C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Or  use a lithium battery which doesn’t need to be vented, can be oriented 
in any direction, and would likely weigh less than the incremental heavy gauge 
cabling run required by the windlass  connection to the charger could be 
much smaller depending on the expected charging rate, and dod is greater, 
requiring a lower a/h rated (smaller) battery for the equivalent usable 
capacity.   

Charge via a small dc:dc charger off the house system.   
https://ca.renogy.com/renogy-12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7yCBhDJARIsAMWFScNT2ifqnsnfIeF-stcBCY7Z0uqGfL40x2HY83wccuRItirzuy_Ap_QaAhnoEALw_wcB

Dave   33-2


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Pete,
> 
> Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the 
> windless in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in 
> anyway. Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.
> 
> I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite 
> a bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
> quickly.
> 
> I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
> boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
> existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted 
> to avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that far 
> forward either.
> 
> I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker 
> to the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof 
> glands through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to 
> existing battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The 
> solenoid for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the 
> anchor locker.
> 
> Just my $0.02.
> 
> Pictures of installation available upon request.
> 
> Best regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
> 
> P.S.  Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 
> 
>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey all,
>> 
>> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
>> AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of 
>> room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my 
>> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
>> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
>> 
>> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, 
>> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any 
>> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Precision Sails

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI All

Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of Sydney BC in
Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or duties.  Offer
different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is attractive - approx 2
boat bucks

www.precisionsailloft.com

 

Any comments or experience?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Pete,

Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the windless 
in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in anyway. 
Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.

I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite a 
bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
quickly.

I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted to 
avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that far 
forward either.

I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker to 
the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof glands 
through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to existing 
battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The solenoid 
for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the anchor 
locker.

Just my $0.02.

Pictures of installation available upon request.

Best regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

P.S.Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
> AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of 
> room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my 
> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
> 
> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, 
> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any 
> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Peter,

What is the chemistry of your existing batteries?  Different chemistries
and designs require different charging profiles.  How do you plan to keep
it charged?  The means of charging has to be matched to the chemistry.  Be
careful in your selection of a battery since marine and AGM batteries in
conventional automotive BCI group sizes are rarely true deep cycle
batteries.  Though, I suppose it could be argued that an anchor windlass
could be more like a starting motor than a deep cycle load.  You may find
that a lithium battery fits this bill nicely.  The ones used in commercial
IT UPS solar arrays are available used and have their own charging control
circuits.  They don't require venting and can be oriented in any fashion.
They are surprisingly light, have incredible discharge current, and can be
charged comparatively much faster than almost any other tech.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valence-U1-12RT-12v-Lithium-battery-packs-No-connector-Cords-Varied-Ah-/393130832481?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

If you decide to use lead acid or AGM then consider looking for ones with
vent ports built right into the top of the case.  These ports are designed
to have a tube attached so as to vent the gasses to a fresh air location.
Also remember that if your AGM is producing gas then it is also irreparably
having its service life shortened since there is no way to replace the lost
water.


All of that being said, many people simply choose to use long over sized
cables leading from the main house battery - I would.  When doing an
install like this, you would typically run the engine to help make up for
the power usage.  Well, running the engine during anchoring maneuvers is
pretty typical anyway so that shouldn't really be an issue.  Additionally,
use a very high current relay located close to the battery to do the
switching of the power for windlass ops.  This keeps the risks associated
with "always on" high amp conductors to a minimum since the positive wire
would no longer be "always on".  Using a solenoid/relay also saves the
contacts in your windlass switches.  Ugh!  It could be ugly if a switch
contact got welded shut in the raise position!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 19:14 Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a
> new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty
> of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my
> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific
> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
>
> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large,
> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any
> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: forestay tension

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bob,

In your situation I would say that you will probably not regret keeping the
turnbuckle as loose as possible.  Of course if you have to tighten it, it
is not impossible.  You should make sure that both halves of the turnbuckle
are equally and fully engaged.   Y fully engaged I mean that the end of
each shank should be at least flush with the inner opening of the
turnbuckle.  Many turnbuckles require a pin or ring to prevent loosening
but since this is in the furler there may be a different mechanism.  Make
sure that the engagement is sufficient for whatever security measures is
used.  When tightening, lubricate the threads first and be especially
careful not to let the stay twist. IIRC lonseal is recommended by Navtec
but gray anti-seize or tef-gel are perfectly good alternatives.

Before calling it set make sure that the wedges in the collar still fit and
that the mast is not riding on the collar/partners.  Double check that the
side stays, back stay and baby stay all have sufficient adjustment
remaining and re-adjust (tighten) the headstay as needed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 17:38 Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> So with no sails on, the forestay should be slack?  How much?
>
> Backstay will tighten the forestay and this should be adjusted during
> sailing, but how slack is it?  I have a turnbuckle on my forestay, inside
> the furler.  I've tightened it in the past but I don't know what I'm doing.
>
> Bob
>
> On 03/15/2021 5:09 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Bob- Forestay tension is set primarily by backstay tension, so there is
> no “tension setting”. AFAIK  Dave
>
>
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:07 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be?
>
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> 71' 35 mk I
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Mike Taylor via CnC-List]

Perry

You are going through the same thought process I did a few years ago.  At the 
time I decided not to go that route for the issues you mentioned plus I didn’t 
want the weight. I had an opportunity to get welding cable and used that for 
wiring a 1500w windless.  It’s braided but not tinned. I tinned the ends before 
installing the lugs.  Wire is over 1/2” not including insulation.  Harbour 
freight or Princess auto would be a good source for the cable.

Mike

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:14 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
> AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of 
> room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my 
> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
> 
> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, 
> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any 
> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I felt sort of the same when I drilled my first garboard drain hole. 1/2
inch bit following an 1/8 inch pilot hole from the lowest part of the bilge
outward and slightly downward. Do it every fall then in spring clean the
hole with the 1/2 inch bit washed pulling acetone soaked rag thru hole
short plug from the outside fill the hole from the inside with thickened
epoxy.  Let cure remove plug and fair with a  gob of lightweight car body
filler. Works great and what a pleasant difference to interior during the
window. Also let port and starboard ports open under a tarp.  Ventilation
is very important. I keep all my cushion onboard year long. Been doin it
for 10 or more years upholstery looks good as new.

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 9:29 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the thoughts on smelly bilge.  I will add some detergent or
> bleach when it warms up and leave it there for a while and hope that cleans
> it out.  As to garboard drains, I have considered it, but the thought of
> drilling another hole in the bottom of the boat just fills me with dread.
> It is not that big a problem to need that solution.  As to dehumidifiers,
> sounds like a nice idea, but there is no power near the boat where it is
> stored this winter, so that is not an option.  I doubt it would help given
> the amount of water that comes down the mast in heavy rains.   Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Forestay tension

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rake can (and arguably should) be adjusted by moving the foot of the mast.
This basically helps keep the mast centered in the deck at the partners.
Unfortunately the mast shoe often makes doing this nearly impossible.  Of
course changing the forestay length can also be a challenge.  Remember that
changing rake will cause changes to other dynamics such as the halyard lead
to the furler which may result in halyard wraps.  Fortunately most of our
boats do not have swept spreaders or if they are it is only very slight.
Adding rake would shorten them.  Unless you recut the mailsail the boom
will tip lower for the same leach tension.  Besides headroom, this can
impact dodger clearance.

Just things to consider.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 18:58 Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Agree the backstay tensions the forestay but you want to set your mast
> rake using forestay length and appropriate blocking at the mast base of
> course. Rake should be specified in your manual.
>
> Len Mitchell
>
> S/V Crazy Legs
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Midland On.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List windlass battery under vee-berth

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hey all,

As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of room 
here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my homework on 
voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific experience on a 37 with 
a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 

My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, but 
I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any suggestions 
for adding an adequate vent to this area?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Forestay tension

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Agree the backstay tensions the forestay but you want to set your mast rake using forestay length and appropriate blocking at the mast base of course. Rake should be specified in your manual. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: forestay tension

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

So with no sails on, the forestay should be slack?  How much?

Backstay will tighten the forestay and this should be adjusted during sailing, 
but how slack is it?  I have a turnbuckle on my forestay, inside the furler.  
I've tightened it in the past but I don't know what I'm doing.

Bob

> On 03/15/2021 5:09 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi Bob- Forestay tension is set primarily by backstay tension, so there 
> is no “tension setting”. AFAIK  Dave
> 
> 
> 
> > > On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:07 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be?
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > 71' 35 mk I
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: forestay tension

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Bob- Forestay tension is set primarily by backstay tension, so there is no 
“tension setting”. AFAIK  Dave


> On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:07 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be?
>  
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> 71' 35 mk I
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List forestay tension

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be?

Bob Mann
Mystic
71' 35 mk IThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I was fortunate to have a little drain tube come out of the mast base, which
I put a tube onto with a string of felt up it, and in the winter I poke it
out through a removed transducer, finally bone dry!

In the summer, I take that tube and run it into a plastic fridge pan. I just
try to get down there enough so I can drain the pan B4 it overflow, this
also keeps the bilge dry.

If you mast is on one of those C&C aluminum castings, you can drill a hole
into it , and 1/8" NPT and put a little barb on it.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2021 8:29 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

 

Thanks for all the thoughts on smelly bilge.  I will add some detergent or
bleach when it warms up and leave it there for a while and hope that cleans
it out.  As to garboard drains, I have considered it, but the thought of
drilling another hole in the bottom of the boat just fills me with dread.
It is not that big a problem to need that solution.  As to dehumidifiers,
sounds like a nice idea, but there is no power near the boat where it is
stored this winter, so that is not an option.  I doubt it would help given
the amount of water that comes down the mast in heavy rains.   Dave

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,
When I worked for Edson they were marketing a microbial bilge cleaner.  We 
found two things to be true: the microbes needed oxygen to work, as in agitated 
water.  Once the microbes finished feasting on organic matter in the bilge, 
they die, leaving a residual order that was unpleasant.  Bilge water was free 
of oils ,etc but needed to be pumped overboard. The microbial pads had a 
service life of about 1 month once they got active in dirty water.  They would 
not be effective if it froze.
Also, cleaners like bleach, simple green and any emulsifier products would kill 
the microbes, which means the bilge pads wouldn’t do what they were designed to 
do if you mixed bilge cleaners.
Just a bit of insight regarding odors in the bilge.
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 8:29 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the thoughts on smelly bilge.  I will add some detergent or 
> bleach when it warms up and leave it there for a while and hope that cleans 
> it out.  As to garboard drains, I have considered it, but the thought of 
> drilling another hole in the bottom of the boat just fills me with dread.  It 
> is not that big a problem to need that solution.  As to dehumidifiers, sounds 
> like a nice idea, but there is no power near the boat where it is stored this 
> winter, so that is not an option.  I doubt it would help given the amount of 
> water that comes down the mast in heavy rains.   Dave
>  
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the thoughts on smelly bilge.  I will add some detergent or 
bleach when it warms up and leave it there for a while and hope that cleans it 
out.  As to garboard drains, I have considered it, but the thought of drilling 
another hole in the bottom of the boat just fills me with dread.  It is not 
that big a problem to need that solution.  As to dehumidifiers, sounds like a 
nice idea, but there is no power near the boat where it is stored this winter, 
so that is not an option.  I doubt it would help given the amount of water that 
comes down the mast in heavy rains.   Dave
 
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu