Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you drill, use as low revs as you can.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 11:55 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

I would drill it out with a good quality Cobalt drill, probably 1/8" then a 
step up, decided by how well you have the pilot hole centered.
Use a good quality lubricant, something with chlorine, or what we use here for 
SS is Anchorlube G771

It looks like Practical Sailor agrees with you on the pins -

https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/offshore-log-in-use-report-atkins-hoyle-deck-hatches



Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Okay.  Thanks.

 

From: Kevin Wright via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 12:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Kevin Wright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Hi Matt, 

My boat's 2 large hatches are flush unfortunately. Sounds like a great deal for 
someone! Thanks Matt.

Kevin

 

Raven

C&C Landfall 43

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Kevin Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,
My boat's 2 large hatches are flush unfortunately. Sounds like a great deal
for someone! Thanks Matt.
Kevin

Raven
C&C Landfall 43

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I can't remember exactly how they look, but it seems there was maybe a
5/16" SS Hinge pin -
I would drill it out with a good quality Cobalt drill, probably 1/8" then a
step up, decided by how well you have the pilot hole centered.
Use a good quality lubricant, something with chlorine, or what we use here
for SS is Anchorlube G771

It looks like Practical Sailor agrees with you on the pins -

https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/offshore-log-in-use-report-atkins-hoyle-deck-hatches



Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 9:33 AM John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove
> heat etc  no luck
>
>
>
> John Read
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>
>
>
> My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If
> it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid
> and have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in?
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it
> is bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Kevin:

 

Flange fit.  I did not see a model number.  The outer edges of the flange “lip” 
(the part that sticks down into the hatch opening) measure 24 5/8” x 24 5/8”.  
Although the box is a little worse for wear, the hatch is good looking and in 
new condition (still has protective paper on the lens).  Let me know if you 
need additional info.

 

Matt

 

From: Kevin Wright via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 11:23 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Kevin Wright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Hi Matt,

I'm interested, is it a flush fit or flange?

Thanks

Kevin

C&C Landfall 43


 

Kevin Wright

(289) 886-2172

kcwright...@gmail.com  

 

 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 11:11 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Speaking of hatches, I’ve had a brand new Vitus hatch sitting in my garage (in 
the box) for quite some time.  I’m guessing it’s about 24 x 24.  When I bought 
it, my evil plan was to replace the Atkins and Hoyle hatch on the 42, but the 
Vitus was not a perfect fit and I decided to go the re-build route.  I’m happy 
to send it to a new home for the cost to ship and a $250 donation to Stu.  I’ll 
provide details if anyone’s interested.

 

Matt

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 10:28 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt mine 
12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge casting 
simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We didn’t find 
any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail and we had 
Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but the cabin 
roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle.  

 

The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, however, 
was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if they can 
advise you on how to remove that lid.   

 

Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
available for parting out.

 

Good luck,

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC…..’77

 

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I had a feeling someone would make me venture into my mess of a garage.  I’ll 
have a look and send more precise details.

 

Matt

 

From: Kevin Wright via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 11:23 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Kevin Wright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Hi Matt,

I'm interested, is it a flush fit or flange?

Thanks

Kevin

C&C Landfall 43


 

Kevin Wright

(289) 886-2172

kcwright...@gmail.com  

 

 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 11:11 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Speaking of hatches, I’ve had a brand new Vitus hatch sitting in my garage (in 
the box) for quite some time.  I’m guessing it’s about 24 x 24.  When I bought 
it, my evil plan was to replace the Atkins and Hoyle hatch on the 42, but the 
Vitus was not a perfect fit and I decided to go the re-build route.  I’m happy 
to send it to a new home for the cost to ship and a $250 donation to Stu.  I’ll 
provide details if anyone’s interested.

 

Matt

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 10:28 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt mine 
12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge casting 
simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We didn’t find 
any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail and we had 
Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but the cabin 
roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle.  

 

The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, however, 
was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if they can 
advise you on how to remove that lid.   

 

Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
available for parting out.

 

Good luck,

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC…..’77

 

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Kevin Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,
I'm interested, is it a flush fit or flange?
Thanks
Kevin
C&C Landfall 43

*Kevin Wright*
(289) 886-2172
kcwright...@gmail.com



On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 11:11 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of hatches, I’ve had a brand new Vitus hatch sitting in my garage
> (in the box) for quite some time.  I’m guessing it’s about 24 x 24.  When I
> bought it, my evil plan was to replace the Atkins and Hoyle hatch on the
> 42, but the Vitus was not a perfect fit and I decided to go the re-build
> route.  I’m happy to send it to a new home for the cost to ship and a $250
> donation to Stu.  I’ll provide details if anyone’s interested.
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
> *From:* rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 7, 2022 10:28 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* rjcasci...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>
>
>
> John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are
> not going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT
> rebuilt mine 12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year,
> the hinge casting simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward
> hatches.  We didn’t find any standard sizes that would fit so my shop
> measured in detail and we had Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was
> originally a Bomar but the cabin roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle.
>
>
>
> The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price,
> however, was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if
> they can advise you on how to remove that lid.
>
>
>
> Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly
> available for parting out.
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Ron C.
>
> Impromptu
>
> C&C 38MKIIC…..’77
>
>
>
> *From:* John Read via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* John Read 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>
>
>
> Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove
> heat etc  no luck
>
>
>
> John Read
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>
>
>
> My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If
> it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid
> and have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in?
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it
> is bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Speaking of hatches, I’ve had a brand new Vitus hatch sitting in my garage (in 
the box) for quite some time.  I’m guessing it’s about 24 x 24.  When I bought 
it, my evil plan was to replace the Atkins and Hoyle hatch on the 42, but the 
Vitus was not a perfect fit and I decided to go the re-build route.  I’m happy 
to send it to a new home for the cost to ship and a $250 donation to Stu.  I’ll 
provide details if anyone’s interested.

 

Matt

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 10:28 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt mine 
12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge casting 
simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We didn’t find 
any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail and we had 
Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but the cabin 
roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle.  

 

The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, however, 
was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if they can 
advise you on how to remove that lid.   

 

Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
available for parting out.

 

Good luck,

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC…..’77

 

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Breaking the seal…..
Possibly the insertion of a putty knife(s) and the thoughtful application of 
heat would slowly break the seal.  Thankfully mine were bedded in butyl.
Hatch rebuild currently underway:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1

Dave - 33-2 windstar.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2022, at 10:28 AM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
> going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt 
> mine 12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge 
> casting simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We 
> didn’t find any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail 
> and we had Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but 
> the cabin roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle. 
>  
> The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, 
> however, was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if 
> they can advise you on how to remove that lid.  
>  
> Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
> available for parting out.
>  
> Good luck,
> Ron C.
> Impromptu
> C&C 38MKIIC…..’77
>  
> From: John Read via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: John Read 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>  
> Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
> etc  no luck
>  
> John Read
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>  
> My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If 
> it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and 
> have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in?
> 
> Bill Coleman
>  
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
> bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>  
> John Read
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt mine 
12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge casting 
simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We didn’t find 
any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail and we had 
Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but the cabin 
roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle.  

 

The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, however, 
was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if they can 
advise you on how to remove that lid.   

 

Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
available for parting out.

 

Good luck,

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC…..’77

 

From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: Cracked spreader

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I had my cradle rebuilt after I purchased my 42.  The new supports were made
of steel tubing which hold the boat stands in place.  The fabricator didn't
put drain holes in the bottoms of the tubes where they're welded to the
frame.  After several years, one of the steel tubes filled up with enough
water for the top of the column to sit just below the bottom of one of the
stands inside the tube.  When the water froze it literally pushed the pad up
the side of my boat.  One of the yard guys said I was lucky it was a forward
pad with enough room to slide along the hull.  He recalled a similar
situation where a pad pushed right through the hull.

 

Never underestimate the power of ice.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 8:53 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Cracked spreader

 

This is probably common knowledge, but it helps repeating.

 

When you lay the mast down for winter, as a lot of us do here in the North,
make sure that your spreaders hang "upside down", i.e., the open part that
attaches to the mast points down.

 

Otherwise, water can accumulate in the spreaders and if it freezes, it can
crack the ends.

 

Even here, in Ottawa, where regularly crack -30, many boat owners forget to
take that precaution.

 

Btw. Water can accumulate (and freeze) in strange places. E.g. boarding
ladders, pulpits, stantions, spreaders (we had all of those cracked after a
winter on some boats in our Club).

 

Marek

1994 C270 Legato

Ottawa ON 

 

 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[John Read via CnC-List]

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If
it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid
and have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it
> is bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I used 4200 on several deck fittings in 2007 and removed them last year to 
paint the deck and rebed them.  They never leaked and the stuff was firm but 
not hard.  4200 is not epoxy so you simply need to cut through the stuff to 
break the bond without damaging the fiberglass underneath.

Once all of the fasteners are removed, I'd use a heat gun on the frame to 
expand the frame and soften the bond.  Then use a very thin metal putty knife 
to start at a corner, then insert additional plastic putty knives into the 
crack as you go around the frame.  Use a rubber mallot to drive the thin metal 
putty knife into the caulk.  Take your time and it will separate. 

Chuck S



> On 11/07/2022 7:58 AM John Read via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it 
> is bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
> 
> 
> John Read
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C&C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
> 

Stus-List Cracked spreader

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This is probably common knowledge, but it helps repeating.

When you lay the mast down for winter, as a lot of us do here in the North, 
make sure that your spreaders hang "upside down", i.e., the open part that 
attaches to the mast points down.

Otherwise, water can accumulate in the spreaders and if it freezes, it can 
crack the ends.

Even here, in Ottawa, where regularly crack -30, many boat owners forget to 
take that precaution.

Btw. Water can accumulate (and freeze) in strange places. E.g. boarding 
ladders, pulpits, stantions, spreaders (we had all of those cracked after a 
winter on some boats in our Club).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: John Read via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-11-07 08:04 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement


  1.  Weld repair

2) Replace – Have found this scrap yard very helpful and large inventory at 
very reasonable  pricing  
https://www.massmarineparts.com/

  1.  Buy new – Klacko marine?  South Shore? – will be expensive

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 7:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

Yeah, that's a nothing burger. Just take it too someone who can weld aluminum 
properly. I've done that a couple times with my own.
Bill Coleman

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 03:38 Macdara Vallely via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,
Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C?
I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
leading edge.

Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J


I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates top 
and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes compromise 
further?
All advice much appreciated.

Thanks
Macdara
NYC
--
Macdara

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[John Read via CnC-List]

Thanks but how do I get it between the hatch and deck??

 

John Read

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:07 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

De-bond

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 7:58 AM John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

-- 

Joel 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

De-bond

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 7:58 AM John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it
> is bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
-- 
Joel

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[John Read via CnC-List]

1.  Weld repair

2) Replace – Have found this scrap yard very helpful and large inventory at 
very reasonable  pricing  https://www.massmarineparts.com/

3.  Buy new – Klacko marine?  South Shore? – will be expensive

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 7:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

 

Yeah, that's a nothing burger. Just take it too someone who can weld aluminum 
properly. I've done that a couple times with my own.

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 03:38 Macdara Vallely via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi,  

Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C? 

I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
leading edge.  

 

Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J

 

 

I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.

In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates top 
and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes compromise 
further?

All advice much appreciated.

 

Thanks 

Macdara 

NYC

-- 

Macdara

Stus-List 3M 4200

[John Read via CnC-List]

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Yeah, that's a nothing burger. Just take it too someone who can weld
aluminum properly. I've done that a couple times with my own.

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 03:38 Macdara Vallely via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C?
> I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
> leading
> edge.
>
> Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J
>
>
> I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
> In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates
> top and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes
> compromise further?
> All advice much appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Macdara
> NYC
> --
> Macdara
>

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Or take it to a competent Machine Shop that also does aluminium welding?

I'm guessing the crack is from water freezing inside in the winter when
the mast was stored?  Odd otherwise.

Ken H.

On Mon, 7 Nov 2022 at 07:18, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would say klacko marine in St. Catharines Ontario
> Or maybe metal store and make your own
> Or a scrap yard for boat
>
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 3:39 AM Macdara Vallely via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C?
>> I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
>> leading
>> edge.
>>
>> Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J
>>
>>
>> I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
>> In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates
>> top and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes
>> compromise further?
>> All advice much appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Macdara
>> NYC
>> --
>> Macdara
>>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

I would say klacko marine in St. Catharines Ontario
Or maybe metal store and make your own
Or a scrap yard for boat

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 3:39 AM Macdara Vallely via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C?
> I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
> leading
> edge.
>
> Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J
>
>
> I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
> In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates
> top and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes
> compromise further?
> All advice much appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Macdara
> NYC
> --
> Macdara
>
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *

Stus-List Spreader replacement

[Macdara Vallely via CnC-List]

Hi,
Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C?
I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB
spreader leading
edge.

Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J


I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates
top and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes
compromise further?
All advice much appreciated.

Thanks
Macdara
NYC
-- 
Macdara