Stus-List Re: C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the spilt type coupler if you get a replacement made. On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 19:49 Riley Anderson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Keith, > > You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a > designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to > install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had. > You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil > against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The > old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have > 400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to > take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I > would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If > you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap > larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw. > > Cheers, > > Riley > > On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Gotta do the same project. >> >> I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. >> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary >> between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the >> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right. >> >> I look forward to the replies. >> >> Chuck S >> >> >> >> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C community will help me out. >> >> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard. >> >> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the >> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the >> length is 4", but what is the OD?? >> >> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between >> the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to >> remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem >> (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so >> that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really >> hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer >> a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only >> thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, >> rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit. >> Q1: is this a real thing? >> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems? >> >> Thanks a bunch!! >> >> -Keith M >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
Keith, You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had. You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have 400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw. Cheers, Riley On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Gotta do the same project. > > I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. > The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary > between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the > strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right. > > I look forward to the replies. > > Chuck S > > > > On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Hey folks, I'm hoping the C community will help me out. > > Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard. > > Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the > cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the > length is 4", but what is the OD?? > > Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the > shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove > the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've > heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it > has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but > once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very > good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing > transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather > than the nice "hug" of an interference fit. > Q1: is this a real thing? > Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems? > > Thanks a bunch!! > > -Keith M > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
Gotta do the same project. I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right. I look forward to the replies. Chuck S > On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hey folks, I'm hoping the C community will help me out. > > Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard. > > Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the > cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the > length is 4", but what is the OD?? > > Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the > shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove > the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) > is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a > nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you > get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good > interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing > transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than > the nice "hug" of an interference fit. > Q1: is this a real thing? > Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems? > > Thanks a bunch!! > > -Keith M > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C community will help me out. Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard. Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the length is 4", but what is the OD?? Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit. Q1: is this a real thing? Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems? Thanks a bunch!! -Keith M Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
