Stus-List Re: Chainplate bedding
Thank you all for your ideas. I tried judicious use of PB Blaster (overnight) and prying from topside. Turns out the "deck fitting" is four pieces: two upright "U" shapes that hold the horizontal pin and a rather thin SS sheet under the U's. The pin has shoulders on both ends that prevent its withdrawal until the bolts are withdrawn. I was able to wedge one the U's up about the thickness of two putty knives, but then things are a bit cock-eyed, and still resisting mightily. The bolts must be carriage bolts, yes. We are launching in 3 days. That leaves no time for fouling up, so I decided to wait until fall, and buttoned everything up to go sailing. I like the idea of pulling up from the top with centered C-clamp. More news on this in October/November. Adrian Humphreys Epilogue, Rockport ME C&C 33-2 adri...@telamontech.com > On Jun 3, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > First, agree with the suspicion that the bolts are carriage types. > > Couple of off the wall ideas. > > Above the deck - Place a couple pieces of 2x4 on edge on the deck either side > of the deck fitting. Lay a strong piece of angle iron across them over the > fitting. Hook a large C-clamp under the pin in the fitting and on top of the > angle. Try to pop the fitting off the deck by tightening the clamp. Maybe > try one end first (two bolts) instead of the middle (4 bolts). > > Below the deck - Screw one of the existing nuts up several turns on the bolt > so several threads are exposed. Place a smaller size socket over the threads > and against the nut. Somehow position a hefty clamp (or two) on the downrod > so it contacts the socket. Or clamp a piece of 2x4 to the downrod under the > socket. Use an open end wrench to loosen the nut. Hopefully the nut will > press down on the socket which will be held by the clamp and the bolt will > rise. If successful, repeat for the other bolts. > > Failing that, resort to Special Tool H (hammer). > > Legal caveat: the ideas expressed above have no bearing in reality or past > experience. Use at your own risk.. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Sat, Jun 3, 2023 at 8:43 AM Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List > wrote: > I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C&C 33-2. > > Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the cabin-side > nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to withdraw the bolts > from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. > > A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without needing > a wrench on the deck-side. > Are the bolts welded to the covers? > > To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat: > Do you hammer on the bolts from below? > Do you lever the covers up from the deck side? > > Images here: > https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg > > https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg > > Thanks, > > Adrian Humphreys > Epilogue, Rockport ME > C&C 33-2 > adri...@telamontech.com > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Chainplate bedding
Thanks, Dave and Doug. I'll go down to the boat tomorrow, and try wedging and maybe hammering. I've added a sketch of how I think this thing works: the rod below is headed over like rod rigging, captured in the cabin fitting, and held to the deck fitting with the 4 bolts. I think all the parts must be SS for this to work (30+ years). Dave, you've seen it all apart, please correct me. Unless the round-headed bolts are welded to the deck fitting, I don't get how they resist turning when the nuts are backed off or tightened. https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateSketch.jpg Adrian Humphreys Telamon Technologies, Inc. POB 396, Rockport, ME 04856 207-763-4691, mobile: 207-542-2312 adri...@telamontech.com > On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:30 AM, Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > > The design on the 33-2 chainplates is pretty good- actually I haven’t seen > better - imho. I won’t try to describe it but you remove the bolts, the top > plate (and bottom if you wish) clean both up, (I polished mine, couldn’t help > myself) clean up the deck and rebed with butyl. > It was done with butyl from the factory, so maintenance is a breeze, and it > should be easy to remove the bolts by tapping from below with a mallet. I do > not believe they are welded to the plate - 99% sure. > You can also separate the deck fitting from the deck by tapping in a thin > wedge a small amount - then wait - then tap again. Then wait. I use a > thin, sharp putty knife to start. Then switch sides, then wait. The > butyl is elastic and comes apart slowly, give it time. Patience is your > friend. > If more force is require to tap the bolts, reinstall the nuts in reverse but > don’t tighten them. Tap on the nut not the bolt. Be careful though- if you > really go to town you’ll learn about cold welding of stainless. (Shouldn’t > require that in this case). > Good luck. If no wise guy used 5200 or similar in the past it should be an > easy job. > Dave > (33-2 with one chainplate re-bedded a few years ago.) > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Looking at your pictures. I think you have corrosion between the bolts and >> the aluminum backing plate. At least I'm guessing the backing plate is >> aluminum. You might try penetrating oil for several days. Good luck. >> >> Douglas Mountjoy >> 1988 LF 39 >> Mexico at large >> 1984 Sabre 34 >> Port Orchard, WA >> >> On Sat, Jun 3, 2023, 06:43 Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List >> wrote: >> I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C&C 33-2. >> >> Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the >> cabin-side nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to >> withdraw the bolts from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. >> >> A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without needing >> a wrench on the deck-side. >> Are the bolts welded to the covers? >> >> To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat: >> Do you hammer on the bolts from below? >> Do you lever the covers up from the deck side? >> >> Images here: >> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg >> >> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg >> >> Thanks, >> >> Adrian Humphreys >> Epilogue, Rockport ME >> C&C 33-2 >> adri...@telamontech.com >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Chainplate bedding
I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C&C 33-2. Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the cabin-side nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to withdraw the bolts from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without needing a wrench on the deck-side. Are the bolts welded to the covers? To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat: Do you hammer on the bolts from below? Do you lever the covers up from the deck side? Images here: https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg Thanks, Adrian Humphreys Epilogue, Rockport ME C&C 33-2 adri...@telamontech.com Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Looking for replacement Holding Tank for C&C 30-2
> On Jan 28, 2023, at 11:22 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > I've had good luck with Ronco. > > https://ronco-plastics.com/ +1 on Ronco. They have a lot of molds for shapes that may nearly match yours, and will drill and spin-in the fittings you need. Reasonable prices, but shipping from California can hurt a little. Adrian Humphreys Epilogue, Rockport ME C&C 33-2 adri...@telamontech.com Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa
Woodpeckers will also drum when seeking a mate. I've seen one rap on an aluminum ladder, no bugs on it. Very loud. Adrian Humphreys Epilogue, Rockport ME C&C 33-2 adri...@telamontech.com > On Sep 16, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Strange. Heard repetitive tapping sound while on the boat this week. The > source was a woodpecker attacking the furled genoa on a neighboring boat. > Must have been bugs in the sail. Link to picture: > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kc4okG4zrUi3Vh4GgUM4wJZAQE4fGFNt/view?usp=sharing > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA
Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
West has a wealth of epoxy-related info. From this page: www_dot_westsystem_dot_com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/bonding-fasteners-hardware/ " Removing Epoxied Fasteners Remove a permanently bonded fastener by applying heat to the head of the fastener with a soldering iron or propane torch. Use a heat shield to protect the surrounding area. Heat will travel down the fastener, softening the epoxy in contact with it. At about 120°F the epoxy should soften enough to allow the fastener to be backed out. Allow more time for heat to travel down longer or larger diameter fasteners. " Adrian Humphreys Epilogue, Rockport ME C&C 33-2 adri...@telamontech.com > On Jul 21, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > To Dwight’s comment, unfortunately no, I can’t just grind it away and ignore > it, I am too Anal. > > The head was sticking out a couple inches (with an inch and a half in epoxy), > so that is what I was using to unscrew, as well as two lock nuts, so I had > two wrenches to unscrew with. Unfortunately, it broke almost flush with the > transom underneath the lock nuts. I should have lathered more Vaseline on it. > Don’t want to beat on it, as it is really in there, and beating would no > doubt break the inner and outer layers away from the foam core, and the > backstay is right about there . . . > > And thanks for all the suggestions, I have all the left hand drills and > easyouts, etc, I understand removing it like that is do-able, I just am to > anal to booger it up. That will be my last resort. I know there has to be a > way to heat the stud up. If I took a welder down, it would be fairly simple > to heat up, those obviously can take a direct short. And I have a half dozen > welders, but they are all 3 phase and not easy to drag onto a boat. I was > mostly looking for electrical advise. It sounds like the consensus is that > this 12V power supply is not something that can take a direct short. If I > can’t figure the bolt heating out, I suppose eventually I will have to try > the easy out or failing that rout out around the bolt. > > Like Old Lodge Skins, I will have to smoke on it till I figure it out. . . . > > > Bill Coleman > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 6:09 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: ALAN BERGEN > Subject: Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy > > You can probably drive the bolt back through the transom using a hammer or > sledge hammer, and then a punch and a hammer. A hard strike should break it > free from the epoxy. If it's truly a carriage bolt, you don't want to try to > turn it. A carriage bolt has a round head and a square neck. > > Alan Bergen > 35 Mk III Thirsty > Rose City YC > Portland, OR > > > > On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:42 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List > wrote: >> Can you just grind it away and leave it. >> >> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List >> wrote: >>> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing >>> out my transom. >>> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely. I did four, three >>> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one >>> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline. >>> >>> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so, >>> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems *maybe* >>> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up, >>> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an >>> option. >>> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to go >>> about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what happens >>> when I have shorted them out with a wrench – >>> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a little >>> safer. >>> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the bolt, >>> and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just melt the >>> insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a factor of >>> the gauge of the wires? >>> >>> Bill Coleman >>> Entrada, Erie, PA >>> >>> >>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >>> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >>> Stu >> -- >> Sent from Gmail Mobile >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- >> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!61cXmQ3t_0HBAdnGhtRD8lgVwNjDVtT-8uqhtSM8F0aVJFfk5eDfhB2Km5s1TBL1Vk8$ >>Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the co
Stus-List Re: Navigation app for iPad with ios 9
We run iNavX v.5.2 on an old iPad v. MC980LL/A, iOS v. 9.3.5 Our ipad has no internal GPS, so we have a Dual external GPS (about 2" square, 1/2" thick) that talks to the iPad on bluetooth. The GPS picks up 11 or more satellites and looks through the cabin top successfully. We charge both devices from a dedicated 2-slot USB charger off the house batteries. System works like a charm. Our iPad is too old to upgrade iOS, and the latest version of iNavX won't run on iOS versions earlier than 10, but maybe the developer would sell you v5. https://inavx.com/ iNavX uses free NOAA raster navigational charts (RNC), the traditional look, but not the new electronic navigational chart (ENC) charts. Don't know what happens when NOAA shuts RNC down in January 2025. Adrian Humphreys Epilogue, Rockport ME C&C 33-2 adri...@telamontech.com > On Jul 7, 2021, at 12:57 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List > wrote: > > Ok, so, it is a Apple iPad 2 MC755LL/A Tablet (16GB, Wifi + Verizon 3G, > White) 2nd Generation. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jul 5, 2021, at 10:27 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List > wrote: > >> OpenCPN does not run in i things. >> >> Congrats on the launch! >> >> On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 10:07 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Hi guys! Thanks for the replies! >> >> I have not tried openCPN. where do I find that? >> >> I'm not sure of the exact model but out has the 3g capability. It's 11 >> inches and probably 7 years old - ish. >> >> I'm in the boat now and left it at home so I can't check. I will look >> further into when I get back. >> >> Taking my boat back to home port, in mattapoisett, after nearly 2 years on >> the hard in Barrington, RI >> >> She looks stunning! >> >> Danny >> -- Original Message -- >> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List >> To: Stus-List >> Cc: Tom Buscaglia >> Subject: Stus-List Re: Navigation app for iPad with ios 9 >> Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 14:13:38 -0700 >> >> Which iPad? >> >> Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660 >> >> On Jul 5, 2021, at 8:14 AM, Danny via CnC-List wrote: >> >> Hi guys, i wanted to rt and use an old iPad for backup navigating but all >> the apps are not compatible with the current IOS. >> Does anyone know of an app i could use on this iPad? I don't think >> upgrading the operating system is possible >> Danny >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >> Stu >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >> Stu >> -- >> Joel >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >> Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
