from:"David Miles via CnC\-List"

Stus-List Please remove me

2023-09-14 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Dear Stus list,
Please remove me from the list as I'll be traveling for the next while and it 
fills my inbox too quickly.
Thx very much and thank you for all the effort you put in.

Best regards,
David Miles
mi...@intergate.ca
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: West Coast C&C Rendezvous

2023-08-03 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

See you there Tom and Lynn.
At Silva Bay tonight.
Really looking forward to seeing everyone.

David Miles and Dave Smith
Impulse 1988 C&C 30MK2

On August 3, 2023 5:01:29 p.m. Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> We'll be at Telegraph Harbor on Thetis Island tomorrow.  40  C&C's 
> expected...should be some fun!
>
> Who else is going?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island, WA
> www.sv-Alera.com
> P 206.463.9200
> F 206.463.9290
> C 305.409.3660
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Midship cleats on aluminum rail?

2021-03-10 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

We bought a folding cleat that attacks solidly to the toerail with two 
bolts using two toenail holes. Works great and folds off the deck to avoid 
a tripping hazard.

Not sure where we ordered it at the moment but a Google search may find it.
David Miles
Impulse 1988 30-2

On March 9, 2021 11:27:32 p.m. Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
 wrote:
A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a 
solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline 
placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which 
seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. 
Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a 
soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general 
opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Fuel Mystery

2019-10-30 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Hi Tom,
Is it possible that the tank has a few gallons of microbial growth 
(bacterial and fungus) that gas created clumps/sludge on the bottom of the 
tank taking up good fuel space?
Be careful using a bio ide, as a friend told me he did this and a few weeks 
later while returning through Active pass in choppy seas, some clumps 
blocked his fuel filter. Fortunately he had previously installed a parallel 
filter, and a quick flip of a switch to the backup fuel filter got the 
engine running again with no other problems.

Good luck.
David Miles
Impulse 1998 C&C 30MK2
On October 30, 2019 11:47:45 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I have a puzzle.  I was on my way to fill up last trip out for a nice 
weekend rendezvous with out club when I ran out of fuel.  Fortunately, I 
was close enough to our club in the inner harbor.  I dropped the dinghy and 
ran to shore to get a gerry can of diesel.  When I finally got to the gas 
dock in Tacoma she only took 24.5 G of diesel.  I made sure that the filler 
tube was open and even intentionally overfilled it to make sure the vent 
was clear (than god for my catch can!)  I made sure the tank was topped off.


I have never trusted by gauge as it would show empty when there was 1/2 a 
tank left.  I used to chart all time and distance religiously in my old 
boat and did the same on Alera initially.  Then I realized that unlike out 
old 35 MK1 Alera had a functioning Hobbes meter.  So over the last few 
seasons I got lax and instead of copious logging I just take a picture of 
the Hobbes meter at every fill up.  Made sense and eliminated the problem 
of accounting for sailing time on long runs.  Based on the Hobbes meter 
reading from the last fill up the engine ran 26 hrs.  Very consistent with 
my established burn rate of 0.9 GpHr.


I started to suspect that maybe the PO had replaced the original 40G tank 
with a smaller one.  However, when I checked my log book I have had several 
occasions where the fill up was more than30G..  Not many, but more than one 
or two over the 25G mark.


The rancor is clean and aside from need to bleed the system down to the 
injectors to get her started after the stall out, no air leaks in the fuel 
system.  Motoring in flat seas, so sloshing fuel is not it either.


Have at it C&C sleuths...I am at a loss.


Tom B


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




___


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Do any of the pumps have one way valves built into them.
Our Rule pump let's water run back into the bilge, just enough to make it
run again when on auto.

It didn't do this when new two years ago.
Is it no good now?
Thx.

On July 10, 2019 16:49:23 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
wrote:
I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
wrote:
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so
I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power
to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes
with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3
way connection.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:

I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
area (bilge) of the boat.

1. In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch. I had some 3
way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
crimp/heat shrink attachment ports. After connecting them I realized that
the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated. This seemed like
a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge. I am
confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
exposed. In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.

<2024633WY121.jpg>

2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
time as the alarm or emergency switch. So is that considered an OK way to
set up mast wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s&s=R1kFLMgjqGpUZkxeDS6SfztD-7XBK0EDXbXGZkI8nBo&e=

___

Re: Stus-List Bolts, nuts and torque

2019-02-21 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

I could be wrong, but don't you also have to allow for the torque/flex of
the extension, therefore if you have a listed 250# value to be measured, you
add the 15# rating of the extension, making your goal readout at a new
number of 265#s? I am only guessing at the extension value. Need to check
ours as well, but this thought comes to mind from many years ago. Would like
to know if it has merit or not.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: February-21-19 3:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bolts, nuts and torque

 

Renting a large torque wrench is a easy solution...

>From my Android

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 5:46:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bolts, nuts and torque 

 

Thanks for chiming in Josh. I like not buying a multiplier! 

 

Will have a look for a 250 ft-lb wrench etc. and review your video.

 

Good catch on the the stud size-my msmt was with a ruler across the stud but
was likely across the inside of the thread groove-plus 7/8" seems a little
strange for such a large stud. The flats on the nut were much easier to
measure. 

 

I like your ft-lb numbers since they are consistent with what I found for SS
and reachable without a multiplier.

 

Thanks again,

 

Charlie

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

 

On Thursday, February 21, 2019, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 wrote: 

 

Look in the description section of the  video for useful links.

 

https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc 

 

If the flats of the nut are at 1-1/2 inch then the studs are 1 inch and
you're looking at roughly 230 to 250 ft-lbs lubricated torque value.  A
large torque wrench from Home Depot or Lowes should max out at 250.  It will
almost certainly be 1/2 inch drive.  Operating any torque wrench at its high
limit is always difficult... But doable.  I would probably try to save
myself the money on a torque multiplier and just get the biggest torque
wrench and 1/2" drive extensions and a 1/2 inch drive, deep, 6 point, 1-1/2"
socket.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

On Thu, Feb 21, 2019, 1:41 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Smart Watch apps & connectivity

2018-12-27 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Great questions. As an additional thought, is there a way we can monitor 
our boat's power at the marina? We have had some issues with the main 
breaker being kicked off, and therefore heater is off.
There is wifi at the dock, so we were wondering if there is an app that 
would notify us if the power went out. Any ideas?


All the best for the New Year Everyone.

On December 27, 2018 05:55:54 "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Hi All

Smart watches have become increasingly popular and tend to slave themselves 
to a smart phone and also have wifi.  I have always thought that it would 
be nice to have a great sailing app running on a smart phone stashed below 
with the watch as a repeater.  Large digits showing GPS speed, Heading 
Bearing, distance to waypoint, etc…  Also be nice to have a nice GPS app 
when hiking in the woods, etc .. that acts like a marine GPS or 
chartplotter showing tracks, distance travelled and the like.  What I have 
been able to find so far is trying to be more like Google Maps or a car 
style GPS than like either of these.  A final very nice option would be the 
ability to use the wifi capability of the boat’s instruments to set up the 
watch as a repeater for speed over water, wind speed, direction, depth etc ….



Persistence has Raymarine i50/60 SDW instruments as well as a Raymarine A65 
chartplotter all networked together.  Watch is Samsung Galaxy watch (42mm), 
phone is Samsung S7 (Android).  Also interested in Apple watch apps since 
there are likely more of them


Thanks and looking forward to an interesting discussion

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fan Belts...

2018-11-05 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Be sure the pulleys are perfectly aligned.
Misalignment can cause belts to wear rapidly.

Be safe,
David Miles
C&C 30MK2 Impulse


On November 5, 2018 10:43:34 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I don’t know what you mean by

 
unless you mean did I notice any difference in charging ability, if that, 
then no.




Most any Power transmission store has Kevlar belts, I sometimes get mine at 
http://vbeltsupply.com/










Regards,



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 10:14 AM
To: John via CnC-List; Edd Schillay
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft 
stateroom...


Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to 
day usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?


Thanks in advance.

From my Android



From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)



Get the jib out. Sail.


All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




















On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:



So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year) 
 Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  
Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is 
buying a better quality belt for the QM series.




Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.




Thanks in advance.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

2018-10-12 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Hi Allen,
Very interesting comments regarding your experience with a C&C MK2.
If you have a moment, let's connect up. Maybe we're related, as we own the 
same boat...#115.

mi...@intergate.ca

David Miles
1988 C&C MK2 Impulse

On October 11, 2018 10:45:10 Allen Miles via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Doug,  I had Septima for 24 years.  She has a winged keel.  Sails really 
fast and high if you limit heel to 17-18 degrees and no more than 4 degrees 
rudder. I marked the leather wheel cover to indicate 4 degrees port or 
starboard.  Helms person puts approprite mark TDC, tells main trimmer, who 
is playing mainsail lateral position with the Harken windward car on 
traveler mounted on bridge deck, how helm feels.  Too light, raise car, too 
heavy, lower car an inch.  The keel's foils are very efficient at racing 
speeds.  You don't want to stall them out.


Allen Miles
former Aeronautical Engineer

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 11:11 AM Morgan Ellis via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Doug, I'm just finishing my second season with my 30-2 and absolutely 
love it! Although I don't race mine it would make an excellent race boat 
and could be sailed to her rating fairly easily. I do my racing on a 
friend's J35, so I don't need to spend the extra for the fancy sails for my 
own boat. I have heard of some 30-2's that are raced very successfully on 
Lake Ontario. I put on over 600nm each year cruising on Lake Superior and 
this boat does it all very well. I've crossed the lake each year heading 
down to Bayfield, she handles the big water with ease, but does like to be 
reefed fairly early. I'm not sure if I would want the wing keel version? 
Being a racer at heart, I do like how she points and it is a relatively 
tender boat compared to other C&C's, so I'm just not willing to give up the 
performance edge for a few inches of draft. Feel free to contact me at 
svmeand...@gmail.com if you want anymore feed back on the 30-2.


As it's snowing here today I am going to haul out this afternoon :(

Reagrds,

Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher 30-2 #140
Thunder Bay, ON

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Spraying soap into Yanmar turbo

2018-07-20 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


So do you have water injection on your 2GM20F.
Maybe that should be the next mod this summerlol

David Miles
Impulse
C&C 30MK2 #115

On July 20, 2018 06:50:56 Morgan Ellis via CnC-List  
wrote:
Be careful to pour the water in slowly and it will work very well. One of 
the tricks used to get more power out of high performance diesel engines is 
to install a water injection system. It works like nitro in a gas engine. 
If have seen pulling match and black exhaust smoke suddenly turns white... 
that is when they hit the water injection.


Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher
30-2 #140

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?

2018-07-09 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

In pic #1, is that a Tribble stuck in the block??...:)



Best regards,

David Miles

Impulse

C&C 30MK2

Vancouver



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: July-09-18 8:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?



Chuck,



While I can’t comment on the winged-keel version specifically, I’ve had my 1990 
C&C 37+ for 13 years now (the Enterprise-A was a 1978 C&C 34) and can’t say 
enough about how wonderful a boat it is.



SAILING

She’s responsive, points well and can handle heavier wind and chop better than 
pretty much any other boat in her class. For cruising, I find the 135% jib to 
be perfect in just about every wind range - never overpowered and can easily 
hit 7.2 knots (or, as we say on my boat, Warp 7.2) on the jib alone (Pic 

 ). Once you get the boat, if it doesn’t already have one, I would suggest 
installing a “Stack Pack” system for the main (Pic1 

  | Pic 2 

 ) as, without one, getting the main up or down, especially in a breeze, can be 
a multi-person job between the flaking and sail ties (Pic 

 ).



ACCOMODATIONS

She is simply a cruiser’s dream. The biggest complaint I’ve heard about 
monohulls is that it feels like you’re in a basement. Not true with the 37/40 
series. It’s light, airy and very comfortable. The V-berth forward cabin in 
spacious with LOTS of storage, the main cabin bright, has great ventilation, 
and between the starboard-side u-shaped seating (Pic 
 ), the port-side 
bench seating (Pic 
 ), the nav table 
and the L-shaped galley, you won’t be bumping into each other. The head is 
bigger than some cruise-ship bathrooms with a separate enclosed shower stall 
(with seat too!) and that aft cabin with the centerline island queen bed is 
just phenomenal (Pic 

 ). She will be the envy of all your friends and, if you’re lucky, you may get 
a white-bearded C&C 30 MkII owner come aboard and say things like “I f-in hate 
you” and who tells other C&C’ers “Don’t go back there” when they start inching 
towards your aft cabin.



MAINTENANCE

What’s better on a boat than doing projects and customizing? I’m often amazed 
at how much access there is to wiring and other systems. And engine access is 
on three-sides (some have added a fourth side hatch in their head) making 
engine work pretty easy with less blood-covered knuckles.



Some additional under-sail (racing) photos (Pic1 
  | Pic2 
  | Pic 3 
  | Pic 4 
 )



Seriously, it’s such an amazing boat that, even after 25 years, the designer 
can’t help but stare (Pic 
 )



Feel free to contact me off list should you need any specific info or insights.


All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 















On Jul 8, 2018, at 5:10 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 16:27:26 -0400
From: Chuck Saur 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Happy summer!  I'm wondering if y'all have opinions/wisdom to share about
the basic C&C 37/40?  Wing keel...5'3" draft specifically.

Might be time for my son to take over my 35-3 if I can find the right boat.

Thoughts?


*Chuck Saur*

(517)-490-5926
-- next part --







---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers

2018-07-02 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


What brand Rick

On July 2, 2018 18:45:09 Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:
They replaced 2 from one of my boats, 4 from the other, and 2 from the 
house and the garage. Three of these were big ABC type extinguishers. Most 
were red, and a couple were white.


As someone said, look up the model number on the web site, enter the date 
code, type your information, and they send the replacement plus a return label.


I got 8 separate deliveries, which isn’t really a problem. More of an 
inconvenience to ship 8 separate packages.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred 
Hazzard via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 2:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers

I have 2 at home and 4 on my boat. How do they deal with all those?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or

On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 7:30 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

It was discussed but we may have new listers since then.

It's fairly easy.  Have your extinguisher handy and go here:

https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/support/product-alerts/recall-kidde-fire-extinguisher/

Enter the model number and serial number to see if your extinguisher is 
recalled.  If so, fill out your personal info and Kidde will send you a 
replacement.  Drop your old one in their box, slap on the supplied label 
and call FedEx for pickup.  Many FedEx offices will not take it because it 
requires a specially trained person to accept it.


I got two replacements.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 9:06 PM, tom via CnC-List  wrote:
I don't know if this has been brought up before, but please check if you 
have Kidde with plastic handles. These have all been recalled and you can 
get replacements for free.


https://s3.amazonaws.com/inmar-adx-files/N130284/US_Plastic+Handle+Product+ID+Guide.pdf

Tom Oryniak
Carry On 33-1
Raritan Bay Nj



On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 12:25 PM, mark woehnker via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Regards,

Mark Woehnker

On Sun, Jul 1, 2018, 12:14 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
 wrote:

https://ccga-pacific.org/files/library/01-07_Portable_Fire_Extinguishers_April_11,2007.pdf

I did find this. It's not recertification but a yearly maintenance tag. Six 
of one...




Cheers, Al

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Amazing USCG rescue - Anybody else see this?

2018-06-29 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

I have no idea on their boat, but I just saw an ocean going boat that was 
from the 70's with a bad crack through the 1.5" hatch. Any wave would have 
split this one.


On June 29, 2018 18:09:21 Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I’m not judging, but trying to learn.

In the account, they were sailing down steep 30-foot waves under bare 
poles.  The woman awoke to a hard hit by a wave, was suddenly on the 
ceiling, and tons of water came in through the companionway hatch.  The man 
at the helm assessed that they had been turned upside down.


The account does not indicate whether the companionway was closed (hatch 
boards in place), nor whether the the boat may have turned beam to the 
waves and rolled.


What I’m wondering is, regardless of whether they got pooped or rolled, 
could tons of water have come through the companionway if it was closed?


In any case I’m glad the couple survived the ordeal safely, and sorry about 
the loss of their boat.


Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

On Jun 29, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Thanks for sharing, it's a well written and poignant story.

I think it's easy to find faults from a distance.  I'm also of the opinion 
that younger / tougher sailors would have sailed home as the mast was still 
up, the sails there, the boat wasn't taking on water, and the inoperable 
pumps sounded fixable since they were supposedly only clogged by paper..


But I wasn't there.

In my mind 2 things were much harder to fix:

1) They were a couple of exhausted / beaten 70 year old folks showing 
physical signs of distress coming from off-shore exposure and hypothermia.


2) The dinghy / life raft were gone.  If the boat did start to sink, they 
had no options.


It's pretty clear that they "gave up" on a likely to be fixable situation 
but the real issue was that they were also really worried that either one 
or both could fall seriously ill or worse before they could reach the shore.


I wouldn't want to be the widower that caused his / her better half to 
perish by saying: "He/ she'll be just fine" the boat's replaceable.



-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 50% off Lifesling 2

2018-06-15 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Thx Paul.

Great thought!

 

Best regards,

David Miles

C&C 30MK2

Impulse, Vancouver, BC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: June-15-18 8:19 AM
To: Dreuge via CnC-List
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List 50% off Lifesling 2

 

Awesome!  thanks for the heads up Paul!

 

On 6/15/2018 10:01 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

For those interested, today only West Marine has the Lifesling 2 on sale for
$99.

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/







___
 
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

 



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

2018-05-30 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

We had an issue too this year, first launch, as did another local boat. 
Were told very common that the exhaust elbow will close up due to mineral 
buildup.  Apparently 3-5 year life. We took it off and cleared some crap 
out with a screwdriver,  put it back on and flow was back. We plan to 
replace soon with a stainless steel copy of the Yanmar part, to see if it 
lasts longer.



On May 30, 2018 11:08:48 Eric Frank via CnC-List  wrote:
Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw 
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always 
use a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new 
impeller every year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started 
fine but no water out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the 
engine so thought the problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at 
the yard reported back that things were fine and he just had to run the 
engine at a high RPM to get the raw water flowing.  Anyone else experience 
that? Does it suggest that the tubes where the raw water cools the engine 
water could be getting clogged? Advice appreciated.


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Obscure C&C parts availability

2018-05-12 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Well done Al.

Are you planning to show them off at the C&C Rendezvous Aug. 10-12???

David Miles
C&C30-2 Impulse
Spruce Marina

On May 12, 2018 09:36:40 Allan Hester via CnC-List  
wrote:

For anyone searching for obscure C&C parts I found a source in Ontario.

South Shore Yachts was apparently the service department for C&C back in 
the day. Staff report they have many C&C specific parts in stock and have 
maintained relationships with the original parts manufacturers.


I was able to buy a new pair of C&C crests for the outside of the cabin.

https://southshoreyachts.com/

Al H.
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver, BC.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration

2018-04-12 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Standard checklist procedure in the aviation world from private pilot level 
is to check emergency frequency on radio at startup to ensure yours has not 
been set off by bad circuitry and at shutdown in case a hard landing.

False alarms happen in this world too.
Maybe this check proceedure should be added to radio checklist for boating 
and marine radio training course?


David
C&C30MK2
Impulse


On April 12, 2018 06:36:50 David via CnC-List  wrote:
...and re-register it.

David F. Risch
Gulf
Stream
Associates,
LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Mike via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 5:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration
Reminds me of the time we were visiting the Etobicoke Yacht Club.  We were 
getting ready to leave and we kept hearing this beep, beep and couldn’t 
figure out where it was coming from.  Before we could get away some friends 
stopped by and we had a coffee.  I ask them if they could hear that 
annoying beep.  They could but they also could not determine where it was 
coming from.  While we were enjoying our coffee the DO came knocking and 
asked if we new the coast guard was looking for us and apparently everyone 
on Lake Ontario as well.  We didn’t.  He informed us that our EPIRB had 
gone off .  Upon investigation I found that the little pill that dissolves 
in water had deteriorated.  I immediately pulled the battery, and hailed 
the coast guard tp call off the posse.


What’s amazing is that I had never register the EPRIB when I bought 
Persuasion.  The coast guard called the previous owner who gave them my name.


So thank you Marek for bringing this to everyone’s attention.

Conclusion; if you have an EPRIB or any other such devise and are not 
actively sailing SHUT IT OFF.


Thanks
Mike

C&C 37
Shoal draft
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: April 11, 2018 12:43 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration

This might be of interest to some of us.

Apparently there are quite a few false alarms for EPIRB (and similar 
systems). there was an interesting blurb regarding this problem at Sail Feed:


https://www.sailfeed.com/2018/04/its-406-epirb-day/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter_SAIL180410

Marek

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List shipping to Canada

2018-03-18 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Good article. Thx.

On March 18, 2018 11:42:22 mike amirault via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I think anything over $20 CDN(called the de minimis)  is subject to import 
fees. In comparison, Americans have a $800 de minimis! 
https://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/rob-commentary/canadas-customs-threshold-out-of-step-and-out-of-pocket/article30560441/ 
So much for “free trade”. We also have to pay tax on the CDN value.
The major carriers like Fedex, UPS, Purolator, etc all charge ridiculous 
brokerage fees, so much so that the price of the goods can double by the 
time it gets to your door.  The best shipping method for Canadians is US 
postal service/Canada post but many will not ship that way.


Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe rail wick - Version 3.1.1a.2

2018-03-16 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Looks Great!! Nice job. But wick is directional. It only flows one way, and 
it looks backwards...Don't want to sink the 
boat...🤣🤣🤣.nice job.


On March 16, 2018 18:12:54 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

OK, guys and gals, I threw together a new design toe rail wick.

Why?  Because apparently the wind blew away the old ones so I needed to 
make new ones anyway.


I cut 3 short pieces of cotton lamp wick and stitched them together across 
the top of a another long piece of wick to form a T shape.  The 3 pieces 
ensure that the wick assembly makes good contact with the deck making up 
for the thickness of the toe rail.  The T shape hopefully will keep the 
darn thing from getting blown away.  See pics here:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mWEXOwExu8Z8H5Mp6qtXIhJ-ST1Q-a_w

I foresee the next design having the C&C logo.  NOT!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 35-1 Cockpit Cover

2018-03-16 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Hi Neil,
That might work for us.
Drop me a line at mi...@intergate.ca
David

On March 16, 2018 14:12:54 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:
I am still inventorying the equipment that we salvaged when we scrapped 
Corsair (Redwing 35/C&C 35-1) and came across the Cockpit Cover.  It is a 
3/4 oz. Dacron Cover (10'4 Wide X 16' Long) that fits from the mast to the 
Backstay.  It has a split from the Topping Lift to the Backstay with 
quarter turn fasteners.


If anyone wants a decent cockpit cover, contact me on or off list.  Pay 
shipping and it is yours.  First to claim gets it.


BTW, Corsair had the original roller reefing boom.

Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), Hull #7
New: 1983 C&C 35-3, Hull #28
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ and XL and 37R Build Files

2018-02-25 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Any chance you have 1988 C&C30MK2 hull #115??
Best regards,
David Miles


On February 24, 2018 12:08:06 Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hello Richard,

I'm not entirely sure they are all gone.  I only bought this batch of 40 or
so from South Shore Yachts a month or so ago, so they obviously had a few
put away somewhere.

I would suppose it can't hurt to check with them again as they did find
this batch for me.

Ken H.

On 24 February 2018 at 11:15, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Ken, you are to be congratulated for having the foresight to secure the
build files: the former owner for my boat didn't get the build file, and
when I bought the boat, it was too late, it, (along with all of the
others), had already been destroyed.

Richard
s.v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 27 CB; Ohio River, (which is above flood stage)

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255 <(502)%20584-7255>


-Original Message-
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Sent: Sat, Feb 24, 2018 6:49 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ and XL and 37R Factory Invoices and Pricing
(1988 & 1989)

Hi Mark,

I have Build Files for around 40 of the C&C 37/40's.  South Shore Yachts
threatened to dispose of them some time ago if no one wanted them so I
bought from him what he could find so that wouldn't happen.

I tried attaching three photos of your Build File but the are too big so
I'm sending them to you as Google Drive links.  I don't have time to scan
these documents right now, I'm off to work at the theatre now, but I can
scan a few for you later,

Have fun with them.

Ken H.



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







--
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hard Bimini

2018-02-15 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Very nice...


On February 15, 2018 14:42:17 Bruce via CnC-List  wrote:


Sorry, I forgot to add the link to the photo!



https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rlqciawspzi1ff/Astralis%20Under%20Sail%20%28Corrected%2020131109a%29.jpg?dl=0



Kindest Regards,



Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 5:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard Bimini



Hello J-G,



Here’s a photo of Astralis under sail (yes, I know the bimini is tilted 
back in the photo – the bimini on the boat was not built to exacting 
specifications).




I’m not looking at adding a dodger as of yet, though we may get there one 
day.  However, the main sheet in the forward of the cockpit would demand a 
separate dodger from the bimini.




Kindest Regards,



Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Guy 
Nadeau via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Hard Bimini



What boat? With our 35 Mk2 we have a hard dodger and soft bimini. Because 
of the low boom we have to fold the bimini when under mainsail. Slower 
design would not give sufficient headroom in the cockpit. The boom just 
clears the dodger. We have solar panels mounted on the top of the bimini frame.


Cheers, J-G

Callisto

Victoria, BC




--
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

I have used these in the garden for water lines, and they will pop off when 
exposed to hard weather. Beware, and be sure to get good ones. My son is a 
plumber and swears by them, but his must have been  a better quality than the 
ones I bought.



Best regards,

David Miles



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-18 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing help



Lowe’s has a competitive fittings (the same principle, lower cost), as well. I 
don’t recall the name, but they work as well.



Marek



From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 14:55

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Joel Aronson

Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing help



Look at the sharkbite fittings.  They seem to work on everything.  Any Home 
Depot/Lowes/hardware store should have them



Joel





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

2017-10-17 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Hi Len,
I don't recall looking for a bolt, so perhaps I am the wrong David.
That, or my memory is more selective than I thought.
Thx for the followup though.

Best regards,
David Miles
C&C 30Mk2 (115) Impulse


On October 16, 2017 08:45:07 Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 wrote:


David, I am catching up on my email this morning. I recently replaced my 
running lights with LEDs and I have the bolt you are looking for. Ron said 
he may have one and he may have already solved your bolt issue. Let me know 
if you still need one.

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c&c mkii

2017-09-25 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

One more thing, the sound insulation has dissolved and will be plugging all 
the in floor drains to the bilge. No idea if this old stuff has asbestos.


David
Impulse



On September 25, 2017 19:46:12 "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
 wrote:



Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C&C mkii I'm considering.
it's really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my
first visit.   This C&C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on
the hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover
of the hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective
list said about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural,
"minor cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite
"crackling" sound when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast
or upper deck or anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at
the time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect
chain plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA
this would be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other
updates mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently
rated for fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste
system during the survey).

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears
to be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the
bilge.

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water
levels on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts
on if this is a red flag?

It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of
"old boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :)
Is "old boat smell" curable?

I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss
next steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the
previous one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this
point.

Thanks again,

Lisle



--
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c&c mkii

2017-09-25 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Following up on the last letter reply, our 30MK2 had a smell from standing 
water that was under a couple of floor panels in the galley that don't 
completely drain.. pull all and check. We replaced the bilge pump and wired 
in an auto switch.
Also put all the cushions in our SUV and took to the cleaners. Five days 
later the SUV was finally clear. Picking up took 30 minutes to clear dry 
cleaning smell. Point is, probably clean cushions if smelling sweaty.
Also had a diesel smell and thought we had a leaking tank. Diesel was 
evident around the base. After we had soaked it all up and disinfected, 
smells never returned.
Rudder should be checked and addressed. Ours needed drainage holes and then 
a patch.
No further issues. Make sure rudder moves fully stop to stop. Easy awkward 
adjustment if required.

Our boat is sound and we love it. And boy does she move...:)

Good luck

David Miles
Impulse
C&C 30MK2 (115)


On September 25, 2017 19:46:12 "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
 wrote:



Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C&C mkii I'm considering.
it's really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my
first visit.   This C&C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on
the hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover
of the hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective
list said about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural,
"minor cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite
"crackling" sound when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast
or upper deck or anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at
the time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect
chain plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA
this would be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other
updates mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently
rated for fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste
system during the survey).

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears
to be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the
bilge.

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water
levels on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts
on if this is a red flag?

It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of
"old boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :)
Is "old boat smell" curable?

I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss
next steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the
previous one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this
point.

Thanks again,

Lisle



--
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel

2017-09-22 Thread David Miles via CnC-List


Great explanation.
What is the correct torque to apply?
Thx.
David
C&C30MK2 Impulse


On September 22, 2017 11:23:45 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Lisle;



As others have said, you appear to be looking at the C&C Smile. That is a 
crack in the bottom paint or fairing compound covering the joint where the 
top of the lead keel meets the bottom of the fiberglass keel stub. As these 
things go, yours appears to be pretty minor. On older boats with a swept 
back keel, I’ve seen gaps at the leading edge of the joint of a quarter 
inch or so.




The probable cause is that the tension on the keel bolts is too low. When 
the boat was built, a sealing compound was put between the top of the keel 
and the bottom of the hull, and the bolts were torqued tight. As the boat 
heels when sailing, the keel flexes slightly to the side, and the bolts 
tend to lose torque over time. That leads to the crack – the C&C Smile – in 
the hard paint or fairing compound covering the joint. On older boats with 
the swept back keel, the crack can be accentuated if the boat is blocked at 
the back of the keel, or with too much of the boat’s weight supported to 
far back. Some of the listers have indicated damage to the keel stub from 
hard groundings, but I don’t see any real evidence of that in your photos.




The condition can be cosmetic, or a real problem. Probably cosmetic in well 
over 90% of the time. You can tell if it is a real problem if you put the 
boat in the water and water leaks into the bilge from the joint.




The solution is to torque the bolts properly, and retorque them 
periodically. My 38 had a fairly large smile when I bought her in 2003. The 
bolts got retorqued when I had some keel work done in 2004. Again in about 
2009, when we also opened up a small groove along the smile, put 5200 
sealer in the groove, faired the joint, and applied a layer of glass cloth 
from the leading edge of the joint to about 2 feet back  to address the 
cosmetic issues. No smile when the bottom was painted in 2013. A slight 
crack was evident last winter when I painted the bottom, and a little water 
seeped out of the 5200 sealer – so I retorqued the bolts again (it had been 
8 years after all) and applied another layer of glass before the bottom paint.




If you find you have a water leak – which I suspect is not likely given the 
appearance of the smile, the fix is to drop the keel, apply 5200 as a new 
layer of sealer, and torque the bolts properly. That stops the leak, but 
won’t stop the smile (5200, after all, is flexible and that is what causes 
the smile). Fairing and a fiberglass band over the joint will eliminate the 
cosmetic issues so long as you retorque the bolts every few years into the 
future.




As others have said, get a good survey. You are already paying a relatively 
high price for  late 80s boat, and I really doubt that putting another 
$5000 or more into rebidding the keel would be a desirable activity.




Bruce;



The reason that torqueing the bolts while on the hard is preferable to 
doing it in the water might be that, when in the water, a goodly portion of 
the effort is directed at supporting the weight of the keel instead of 
applying force to the seal. On the hard, with the weight of the boat 
holding the keel tightly to the stub, you would tend to get a tighter seal 
and more tension on the bolts, which should slow down the inevitable 
loosening of the bolts as the keel moves around while sailing – and thus 
require less frequent torqueing or reduce the development of the next smile.




Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 11:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel



Hi Josh,



Quick question which I've wrestled with in my mind - Why torque the keel 
bolts on the hard?  Since the keel will spend most of its time hanging from 
the bottom of the boat in the water, isn't it better to torque the bolts in 
the specific situation where the stresses will be applied?




Thanks for the insights,



Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 








--
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

2017-08-03 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Hi Alan,
Are you going to join us at the C&C Rendezvous at Thetis Island on August 12?

David Miles
Impulse
C&C MK2
Vancouver

On August 3, 2017 5:37:06 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List
wrote:

Thanks Ken, I'm planning to do a complete cleanout in the off season but
I'm getting a little black goo in my Racor bowl so I must do something now.
I've rigged up a fuel pump and filter and I'll do my best to suck up as
much as I can.

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver

On Aug 3, 2017, at 2:22 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
wrote:

It is a black rubber gasket on our tank sender. Reusable with no issue.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

On 3 August 2017 at 02:54, Alan Liles via CnC-List
wrote:

Thanks, Gary, I'll try the fuel sender. Is it a gasket or oring?

Cheers, Al

On Jul 31, 2017, at 11:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List
wrote:

Please be careful. A dock of 20 power boats burned up two weeks ago from
someone doing this. Everything grounded with a large Type B at the ready.

Bill Dakin
C&C25MKII
S/V Tapestry

http://www.kxii.com/content/news/Highport-Marina-says-fire-started-from-man-pouring-out-gas-tank-436840283.html

On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 11:52 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List
wrote:
I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get
through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out
through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a
cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and
find that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the
off season.

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray