Stus-List Re: Winch bit

2021-01-26 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Milwaukee 90 degree Hole Hawg will hoist my main to the top.  I have to
finish manually.
It means that I don't have to leave the cockpit to pull it up by hand when
solo.
Manually grinding it up would be a killer.

It will hoist a person up (others have done it).

-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Screw removal

2021-01-18 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Try the old timer's trick.  A brace and Bit.  You can apply a great deal of
force to prevent the bit from jumping out and at the same time a lot of
rotational force.

On Thu, Jan 14, 2021 at 9:11 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adam
>
> SS screws in aluminum are probably now fused togetherno amount of
> penetrating oil will loosen them.   Drilling them out and tap new treads
> after is one option.  An impact driver is another optionyou might get
> lucky with the impact driver and not have to tap new treads but I wouldn't
> count on that ...the impact driver may also break the screws as they are
> fused to the aluminum.
>
> I took a stanchion and stanchion base off last year using an impact driver
> but a few of the screws broke off, had to be drilled out and new treads.
> Luckily for me a fellow club member who is also a machinist (retired) did
> the latter part.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2021-01-14 7:29 a.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> Hello
>
> I am in the process of ordering new spreaders and the supplier asked to
> send the old bases so the holes can be properly aligned.
>
> The spreader bases are attached by screws.  I have soaked with penetrating
> oil this evening and will soak over night.  I will bring a torch over
> tomorrow.   Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  I would prefer not
> to have to drill them out.
>
> See the attached link
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/RuDjmDNgWMELrcoR6
>
> Thanks
> Adam
> C&C 36
> Pictou NS
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

2016-01-05 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
HMP has some good reasonably priced material. 
I have left overs if you are near Hamilton. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation 
> installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.  Funny 
> remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the same time.  
>  Mine is making a mess.
>  
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film 
> industry gen set people would be ideal...)
>  
> Thanks, Dave
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing the Holding Tank

2015-11-20 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Years ago we had a power boat in our marina that was renamed The Busted
Flush after their half full holding tank froze and burst over the winter.
Even with room for expansion ice will put extra pressure on the tank that
may or may not withstand it.  I prefer not to take the chance.

-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
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Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

2015-06-19 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
The first time we tried this the crew sent below for booze came up with a 
bottle of Courvoisier, it worked as well as cheap vodka if you catch a classy 
fish. 



Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jun 18, 2015, at 16:15, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Doug,
> 
> The gaff or winch handle is dangerous and messy on board.  When you get the 
> fish close enough, just spray their gills with cheap booze.  It goes straight 
> to the fish “lungs” and they die a quick quiet death.  You don’t have to 
> fight with a bouncing fish splashing blood all over the place, or getting 
> spines in your legs or hands.  It’s really surprising how quick it works, 
> easy trick if you you didn’t finish off the fish booze too.
> 
> 2 cents, Lee
> 
> 
>> On Jun 18, 2015, at 12:51 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Lee, 
>> What is the cheap booze trick? I just use a metal winch handle.
>> 
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> svPegasus
>> LF38
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Strengthening Drop Leaf Table Supports

2015-06-18 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Is it possible that one side released putting all the load on the one that 
failed?
If so you may want to add barrel locks to prevent someone from accidentally 
knocking one side loose. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750


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Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

2015-04-05 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
The actual meter portion of analog meters are essentially the same (Volt,
Amp, Ohm) they register the voltage presented to them.  The way the are
placed in the circuit makes the difference.  Volt meter across the voltage,
Amp across a shunt (a low resistance resistor) to measure the voltage drop
across the shunt and Ohm has its own power supply to measure resistors.

The normal setup for fuel tanks is for the meter to be supplied with the +
voltage and one side of the the variable resistor in the tank  connected to
the meter and the other to ground.  In the case of a metal tank such as in
an automobile the tank itself is grounded so there is no need for a second
lead.  If the tank is plastic then a ground lead is needed to the frame of
the sensor assembly.

If there is no connection to ground then the meter should not move.

You said you measured the resistance across the sensor on one tank.  Is
this the one you think is failing?
If not you can measure the sense line to ground to check the resistance on
the one you think is failing.
If it is the new tank that is failing are you sure that on the tank sensor,
one side is connected to ground and the other to your meter?

You could try to find something in the 100 ohm range to test the meter -
light bulb etc.

Good luck.

Don Newman
C&C 44
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Re: Stus-List LF 38 stemhead casting vs forestay attachment

2015-03-20 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
If you use it as a mold, don't forget that the resulting casting will be 
smaller due to shrinkage.

Don Newman
C&C 44
Hamilton Ontario

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Re: Stus-List Welcome to the USA

2015-03-04 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
The US has every right to set the rules for Cruising Permits or anything
else.  The concern is the changes to the rules without warning and the
inconsistent applications of them.  This has got to hurt the businesses
relying on visitors.

On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 2:38 PM, Don Newman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From one of our club members:
>
> FYI, I crossed over from Bimini to Port Everglades yesterday. I went in to
> USCBP to get my Cruising Permit for the year, and they Denied it! If your
> boat is not Registered they will not issue a Cruising Permit. So, if you
> haul out or leave your boat any length of time it puts you in a position
> where you will have to import the boat (a % of it's value) and pay State
> taxes as long as you are in US waters. They have done this to everyone I
> know from Canada that has returned prior to me.
>
> --
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
>
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>
>


-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
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Stus-List Welcome to the USA

2015-03-03 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
>From one of our club members:

FYI, I crossed over from Bimini to Port Everglades yesterday. I went in to
USCBP to get my Cruising Permit for the year, and they Denied it! If your
boat is not Registered they will not issue a Cruising Permit. So, if you
haul out or leave your boat any length of time it puts you in a position
where you will have to import the boat (a % of it's value) and pay State
taxes as long as you are in US waters. They have done this to everyone I
know from Canada that has returned prior to me.

-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

2015-03-03 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Do you have room to put an extension to the rear or below decks to your rudder 
shaft?
On my last boat I was able to put a standard linear drive aft and below the 
tiller. It worked great and was out of sight but just a button press away. 

A tiller mounted unit will work but you will find yourself only using it for 
long hauls and not for that  quick sail trim etc. One that is always available 
is worth the effort to be creative about finding a way to instal it. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Mar 3, 2015, at 09:58, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
> (1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
> appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
> to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
> lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
> install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
> anything else.
>  
> Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing 
> to share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and 
> stow the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much 
> room in my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t 
> want to install something that will be constantly in the way.
>  
> Burt
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question

2015-03-02 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Ed
I highly recommend installing an access hatch on the fourth side. It will save 
your bacon some day when you need access to the alternator. My water pump 
impeller is on the same side and adding that hatch eliminated impeller rage. 


Don Newman
C&C 44
905 547 1750

> On Mar 1, 2015, at 13:21, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> As you know, I'm planning a rewire to a house and starting battery 
> configuration. 
> 
> On the C&C 37+, I have access to three sides of the engine -- the only side 
> without access is the side with the starter and the alternator. 
> 
> From the diagrams I can find, the alternator output is connected to the 
> starter, which then runs back to the batteries. I understand the best 
> practice is to disconnect that wire (as well as the Orange one) and run a new 
> wire from the alternator output to the house bank. 
> 
> This would mean removing, rewiring, and reattaching the alternator, which is 
> a little out of my comfort zone given the access. 
> 
> I recently read on a forum that if you have an ACR instead of an Echo charger 
> (planning to have an ACR), then you can leave the setup as is. The charge 
> from the alternator would go to the starting battery and then, through the 
> ACR, charge the house bank. 
> 
> The ACR auto senses from each side and works both ways. 
> 
> My starter battery and house bank will be the same chemical make-up (Trojan 
> flooded). 
> 
> I've read that it's a "best practice" to run the charging to the biggest 
> bank, but can't find any explanation as to why. 
> 
> So, the question is, with the ACR, can I leave the alternator output as is or 
> do I really need to do some "engine surgery" to run a new cable? And if the 
> latter, why can't the system work the way that the ACR advertises? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
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Re: Stus-List Voltage Regulators

2015-01-27 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
I installed an Electromaax solution last year and received first class service 
and an excellent product. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jan 26, 2015, at 17:00, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If the company you are taking to is Electromaax Canada and you end up pleased 
> with the final product, how about letting us know?  And if it isn't 
> Electromaax Canada but you are still pleased with the result, we'd like to 
> know that too.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On 26 January 2015 at 17:07, D Harben via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi Wal,
>>I am talking to a company in Ontario Canada about a charging solution. I 
>> run an essential CPAP for life threatening APNEA so ... cruising with an 
>> assured charging solution is imperative in order to run while on the hook 
>> for a week.
>> 
>>   Yes, I have bought a used windmill and I am working out solar however 
>> ...
>> 
>> This engine charging solution turns my Yanmar into a genset with an 
>> alternator regulator that can automatically change/control  the alternator 
>> loading from a 35A to 180A so that charging is quicker and does not coke up 
>> the engine when on the hook, yet it can can downsize the alternator load on 
>> the engine when motoring.
>> 
>> This involves changing the belt and pulley, alternator, 2 regulator black 
>> boxes, sensors and control panel.
>> 
>> Don
>> 
>> > On Jan 26, 2015, at 3:54 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Well, my Xantrex 'Ideal Regulator Output Module' that is managed by my 
>> > Link 2000R died.  No big deal, as I had a spare and am back up and 
>> > running.  Hopefully this one will also last ten years and 1500 hours or 
>> > more. But I need to think about getting a new spare, and wonder which one.
>> >
>> > At this point, I'm justlooking for a standalone regulator.  But I really 
>> > liked the ability of the Xantrex/2000R to limit alternator output to 80 
>> > percent of maximum to reduce wear andtear and overheating.  I also would 
>> > like one with a temperature sensor.
>> >
>> > Any thoughts?  No rush, I have stuff forwarded down once a year, and 
>> > amjust working on my list.
>> >
>> > Wal
>> >
>> > --
>> > s/v Stella Blue
>> > www.wbryant.com
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
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>> >
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Indigo is for sale.

2014-12-16 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Try the Midwest passage. Sail half way - Thunder Bay and truck from there. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Dec 16, 2014, at 03:50, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> After a few years of equivocating and procrastinating, I have finally decided 
> to relocate.  We are moving to Nanaimo BC, the other end of Canada, and 
> intend to make our home there for the foreseeable future. We plan to hit the 
> road on January 8, weather permitting, for a three week or so odyssey and 
> arrive around the end of January.
> 
> The sad part of this will be leaving Indigo, our LF 38 behind. It’s simply 
> not practical to ship her to the west coast and the North West Passage is a 
> bit too ice choked at this time of year to sail. So, she is up for sale. 
> Details can be seen at: 
> http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-halifax/sailboat-c-c-landfall-38-a-great-christmas-present/1039227171?src=topAdSearch
> 
> I’ll still be lurking and, who knows, may wind up with another C&C. A good 
> thing. 
> 
> Cheers to all.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Navigation

2014-11-29 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
They were hit by Cyclone Suzie. 
Reported grounded Cargo Carajos Shoals, Mauritius 12 hours later. 


Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Nov 29, 2014, at 13:58, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sorry, this isn't C&C specific but important to our sport. Currently Team 
> Vestas Wind is aground and planning to abandon ship. Is there any reason why 
> a professionally crewed yacht with the latest and greatest nav equipment and 
> shore assistance would come to this? Short of uncharted reefs but that 
> doesn't sound to likely. 
> I'm curious to know what underwater unknowns you've come across while 
> offshore. 
> 
> Cheers
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Racing rules at marks

2014-08-21 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List

Many years ago I raced in a Viking 28 fleet with a judge. He loved to make up 
complex rules on the fly.  He was always prepared to back off if anyone ever 
called him on it but no one ever did. 

Don Newman

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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

2014-08-16 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
It is a good idea to have a start switch mounted near the engine for starting 
during service. 
It can be wired directly from the plus to the solenoid. Then in an urgent 
situation you can run down and start if the normal start doesn't work. 


Don Newman
C&C 44 Hamilton ON


> 

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Stus-List Happy 4th to all US friends and C&C ers

2014-07-04 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List


Don Newman


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

2014-06-02 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
I think she is the same as one that was in the next slip to me for years. 
It was a Folk boat hull with Alberg cabin. I don't know who made them or how 
many were made but I will ask the owners when I see them. 


Don Newman

> 

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Re: Stus-List CB Question

2014-05-22 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Thanks to all. Looks like I was just over thinking it. 
I was concerned about lateral movement with board down sitting in slip. 

Don Newman
C&C 44

> On May 22, 2014, at 7:54, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> 
> We keep Perceptions down most of the time - unless in thin water or light 
> winds . In the slip its left down usually - 
> 
> Paul Fountain
> C&C 33-II - Perception II
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Newman 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: May 21, 2014 5:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List CB Question
> 
> How do CB owners generally use them for daysailing and cruising?
> Assuming no depth issues (we have 20 ft in the slip) do you pull it when not 
> sailing?
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> It sure makes a big CMG difference upwind. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Don Newman
> C&C 44 
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Stus-List CB Question

2014-05-21 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
How do CB owners generally use them for daysailing and cruising?
Assuming no depth issues (we have 20 ft in the slip) do you pull it when not 
sailing?
Any other suggestions?

It sure makes a big CMG difference upwind. 

Thanks

Don Newman
C&C 44 
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Re: Stus-List TEST

2014-05-20 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
I think it has been quiet for a few days. 
Everyone probably gone sailing. 

Don Newman


> On May 20, 2014, at 14:46, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I got two answers direct to my email but neither one showed up on the list 
> email.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Della Barba, Joe 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 2:14 PM
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> Subject: TEST
> 
> Is the list down or just very quiet?
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
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Re: Stus-List java updates

2014-05-16 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
Great machine and 1800s are still in use.  
Not all of them were quite so reliable in 65 when I started on tab machines and 
computers. 
Now to bring things back to at least marine related.  
IBM had one of the less reliable in a unit record machine 557 that if you 
filled with concrete and threw it overboard it would only sink intermittently. 

Don Newman
C&C 44

> On May 16, 2014, at 5:33, via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> IBM 1130
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
>  
> > Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 21:14:16 -0700
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; w...@wbryant.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > 
> > I beat you by quite a bit, I started with the PDP-8. ;-)
> > 
> > Leslie.
> > now on Maverick because the upgrade is free...
> > 
> > On Thu, 5/15/14, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  wrote:
> > 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Date: Thursday, May 15, 2014, 4:33 PM
> > 
> > I drink too much coffee anyway.
> > 
> > I think Java is sponsored by Oracle (who bought SunSoft) so
> > don't think it's tied to the Microsoft upgrade
> > program.  But I don't know anything anymore, having
> > left all that behind in search of the perfect taco.  I
> > do think switching to Linux would be difficult for many
> > people.  Heck, it would be difficult for me, and my
> > first computer was a PDP-11 that required me to enter the
> > boot sequence in Hexadecimal by pushing the right buttons in
> > the right order.
> > 
> > uh-oh.  I have chicken on the barby.  Gotta go.
> > 
> > Oh me-oh my-oh, wont'cha look at Miss Ohio...
> > 
> > Wal
> > 
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Re: Stus-List Update on jammed transmission lever

2014-05-04 Thread Don Newman via CnC-List
I had to pull them out the bottom. I could just reach the clip to remove the 
retaining pin. 

Putting the new ones back in was another story. I had to place them so that one 
was horizontal and the other through long bends lined up with it. This was the 
only way I could reach to replace the pin. 

I then dropped two lines from the top and attached one to each so that I could 
pull the cables to the proper side. I then gently worked the ends back into the 
base so I could pull them up with the lines. Make sure that the pull lines are 
routed aft and clear of the steering cables. I didn't loosen the steering 
cables at all because I wanted to make sure they remained clear of the control 
cables.  

I don't know how much clearance you have below the pedestal but I had very 
little due to the solid base where the steering cables pulleys are mounted. 

Good luck this job pushed my patience limit. 

Don Newman
C&C 44

> On May 3, 2014, at 22:21, Eric Frank via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>   Your collective advice was to replace the shift cable (and throttle cable 
> as well) so I have proceeded to try to do that but have run into another 
> problem.  Following the directions on the Edson website, I delved into the 
> pedestal, moved the throttle cable to the port side, unscrewed the cable 
> clamp from the pedestal housing and then tried to pull the cables up to gain 
> access to the clamp.  As the directions suggested, this was difficult to do, 
> as the clamp gets jammed against the steering chain.  Cranking the wheel from 
> port to starboard helped, as they suggested, but not enough.  So the next 
> advice was to loosen the steering cable (what a PITA!) so I could lift the 
> chain over the sprocket teeth and forward up to the wheel brake.  That helped 
> also, but still not enough.  I think the trouble is that the cable clamp is 
> made for 3 cables, not two, so the part without a cable in it still gets 
> jammed under part of the pedestal casting, and I cannot get it out.
>   How to proceed? Advice needed!  One thought is to unbolt the pedestal from 
> the cockpit floor and tip it over so I can pull the cables with the clamp out 
> the bottom of the pedestal.  Of course the chain/cables will need to be a lot 
> looser than they are now, and I hesitate to disconnect the cables from the 
> quadrant completely.  Maybe as they are already loose (from loosening the 
> nuts on the eyebolt), I could pop the cable off one of the sheaves that the 
> cable runs over, and perhaps that would loosen the cable sufficiently that I 
> could tip the pedestal over.  But before I try something like that, it would 
> be great if I could get some further input from the list.  Would hate to do 
> something that made a big repair necessary.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Eric
> C&C 35 MkII
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 
>> Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
>> won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
>> fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened 
>> the pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine 
>> from the top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right 
>> down near where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  
>> Would moving the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, 
>> perhaps squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?
>> 
>> Eric
>> 
>>> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
>>> tx lever moves. 
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
 On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:
 
 Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk 
 II.  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and 
 just replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went 
 very smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
 diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral. 
  I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
 the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on 
 the prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think 
 there was any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where 
 to look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the 
 transmission itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the 
 transmission and see if I can then move the shift lever?  Advice from the 
 list soon would be greatly appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this 
 week, but if the prop shaft has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix 
 things, launch needs to be delayed.
 
 Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
 
 Eric
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