Stus-List (no subject)

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com

Erik Hillenmeyer

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Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.
How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.  
Erik C&C 35-3___

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Stus-List Seaward Princess oven

[erik hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

My 1984 35-3 has a seaward princess oven, I believe the model 3372.  The 
current issue is that the oven will not light.  After a season of becoming 
progressively hard to light it stopped all together.  The burners seemed to 
still work fine, but I've now noticed that even though the burners work the 
flame is incredibly small and goes out when set below high.  I don't think, 
looking at the pressure gauge, that there is a leak in LP system anywhere.  I'm 
not that familiar with these systems so I'm not sure where to look to start 
diagnosing, but am also finding online that parts for these models are 
discontinued and very hard to find except one company that accepts cores for 
repair (Sure Marine Service).  Any advice on diagnosing or repairing these 
ranges?

Erik
C&C 35-3 Slapshot
Chicago___

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Stus-List DC distribution panels

[erik hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where to get replacement DC circuit breaker panel that are the 
same dimensions as the original panel (1984 C&C 35-3).  The originals are 8 
position panels that measure 9" H x 5" W.  I can't find anything online that 
are these dimensions.  Even 8 position panels from blue sea are much shorter, 
although they look like a great match.

Erik
C&C 35-3
Slapshot
Chicago___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

Thanks, here's a link 
https://jetsupport.box.com/s/j6ikr0hl5n6dmgu02hqlgdzilbpt3c51



Jim Watts  wrote:

>Pictures of any usable size don't come through, but you could post to a photo 
>site and link the pix.
>
>
>Jim Watts
>Paradigm Shift
>C&C 35 Mk III
>Victoria, BC
>
>
>On 19 April 2015 at 09:45, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>Per feedback on the list after my original question I had a look around the 
>sump inside the boat.  I did notice cracking where the stringers cross the 
>bilge.  Not terribly deep but some are pretty long.  Some looks like it may 
>have been repaired before, but I can't tell for sure. Pics are attached if 
>those work on the list.  Could this just be crazing.  Based on the joint I 
>think it's obvious it flexes there, is flexing all the way through the sump?
>
>
>Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
>
>
>Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:
>
>Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat?  I've owned 
>the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. 
> I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt.  The 
>keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when 
>I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. 
> The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint 
>in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably 
>not much of a solution.  Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing 
>with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on?  The boat had only 
>one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so 
>they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group.
>
>
>Erik
>
>Chicago
>
>C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot
>
>
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>of page at:
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

Per feedback on the list after my original question I had a look around the 
sump inside the boat.  I did notice cracking where the stringers cross the 
bilge.  Not terribly deep but some are pretty long.  Some looks like it may 
have been repaired before, but I can't tell for sure. Pics are attached if 
those work on the list.  Could this just be crazing.  Based on the joint I 
think it's obvious it flexes there, is flexing all the way through the sump?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:

>Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat?  I've owned 
>the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. 
> I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt.  The 
>keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when 
>I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. 
> The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint 
>in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably 
>not much of a solution.  Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing 
>with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on?  The boat had only 
>one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so 
>they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group.
>
>
>Erik
>
>Chicago
>
>C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

Thanks for the advice guys.  A little history on the keel...  I went on the 
list serve with the original problem a few years ago.  In the first year by mid 
season I had a 20 gallon a day leak flooding up through the stringer behind the 
aft most keel boat.  I limped from Milwaukee back to Chicago and hauled out. 
They dropped the keel and found that there was almost no sealant left in the 
joint and there was a vertical crack along the edge of the aft keel boat hole, 
causing the leak.  They filled the crack with epoxy, faired the mating 
surfaces, caulked the hell out of it with 4200 and tourqed the bolts.  They 
also said it was some what wet under the mast in the filler where the long 
forward bolt comes up.  They repaired that as well.  Last season bilge was dry, 
no issues.  I was surprised to see the joint opened back up this fall, 
especially considering our short sailing season here.  I usually don't exceed 
1800 on the back stay but will try and get by with even less this season and 
see if that makes a different.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Jake Brodersen  wrote:

>
>
>Erik,
>
> 
>
>The keel joint on the 35-3 can be a pain.  The “C&C Smile” as it is known, 
>often appears as the hull to keel joint opens up.  Many times this is only a 
>cosmetic issue.  I have removed and replaced the keel on my boat once in an 
>attempt to cure this problem.  It has worked well.  The sources of my problem 
>were many.   The keel stub had cracks in it.  The mast step had sunk a bit.  I 
>also had some water stagnating in the mast step.  All of these problems were 
>solved by removing the keel, reinforcing the keel stub, and reengineering the 
>mast step.  Cheap?  No.   But the boat is stronger for it.
>
> 
>
>Your problem may not be as serious, but deserves some consideration.  The 
>forward keel bolt is under the mast.  The only way to tighten it is to remove 
>the mast.  I have done that again this season.  If the forward bolt stays 
>tight, I think the keel will have less of a tendency to separate from the keel 
>stub.  Minor gaps can be filled and painted.  Significant gaps should be 
>addressed as I have done.
>
> 
>
>One of the things to think about is how much backstay tension you use.  
>Anything over 2,000# is going to turn the boat into a banana and start to 
>separate the keel.  I try to keep it under 1,500#.
>
> 
>
>I have pics of my R&R job.  If you’d like to see them contact me off list.
>
> 
>
>Jake
>
> 
>
>Jake Brodersen
>
>“Midnight Mistress”
>
>C&C 35 Mk-III
>
>Hampton VA
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
>Hillenmeyer via CnC-List
>Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:19 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
>
> 
>
>Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat?  I've owned 
>the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. 
> I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt.  The 
>keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when 
>I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. 
> The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint 
>in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably 
>not much of a solution.  Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing 
>with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on?  The boat had only 
>one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so 
>they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group.
>
> 
>
>Erik
>
>Chicago
>
>C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot
>
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Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

 Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat?  I've owned 
the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year.  
I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt.  The 
keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when I 
haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel.  
The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint 
in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably 
not much of a solution.  Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing 
with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on?  The boat had only one 
owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so they 
know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group.
ErikChicagoC&C 35 MKIII Slapshot___

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Stus-List C&C 35 MKIII Reefer Madness

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

I have a problem driving me nuts.  The reefer drain on our boat is completely 
clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need 
to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak 
off all the beers.  I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber.  
Nothing works.  Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of 
the boat.  The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed.  the 
plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where 
it drains into the bilge.  Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the 
bulkhead?  Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get 
 it out that way?  Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing?  My last 
resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to 
the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not 
a very
 aesthetically pleasing option to me.  After trying snakes and chemical options 
I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart.  It's 
never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy 
down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog.

Erik

C&C 35-3___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Baby stay

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Thanks Jake and all for the input.  I'm assuming you meant upper 2/3 of the 
sail, not the bottom, as I'd think the outhaul is more than sufficient at 
flattening the lower part...  I hadn't considered using it stop mast pumping 
though, I've noticed some trouble with that (especially when racing across to 
Michigan last year one of my crew eased the backstay so much the shims fell out 
and it pumped like crazy until we replaced them next morning).  If it ever 
stops snowing in Chicago looking forward to experimenting with it.

Erik
C&C 35-3 Slapshot
 


 From: Jake Brodersen 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Baby stay
  


Erik,
 
That babystay prevents the mast from pumping in heavy seas.  It also depowers 
the main by flattening the bottom third of the sail, but I consider this a 
secondary (and minor) side effect.  In light air we tie the babystay to the 
mast and don’t use it.
 
Adding backstay tension to the masthead rig won’t bend the mast much at all.  
It will tighten the forestay for a bit, but anything more will start to turn 
the boat into a banana.
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va
 
 
 
 
 
From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Baby stay
 
Question is regarding the baby stay on this boat and exactly what it's 
advantage is.  The stay shackles to a car on a track forward of the mast.  It 
reaches high enough that it must be removed when the spin pole goes up.  It 
seems to me this may add some additional prebend to the mast?  Does it have to 
be used in conjunction with the hydraulic backstay tensioner?  Is this a 
possible way to bend the mast and flatten the main without decreasing head stay 
sag so much?  Looking for some tips on optimal ways to use this equipment.  My 
approach so far has just been to set it to "just taught" amount of tension and 
leaving it, pulling it a little tighter upwind when it really starts to blow, 
but primarily relying on the backstay to fatten the upper main upwind.  Thanks. 
 Erik___
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Stus-List C&C 35-3 Baby stay

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Question is regarding the baby stay on this boat and exactly what it's 
advantage is.  The stay shackles to a car on a track forward of the mast.  It 
reaches high enough that it must be removed when the spin pole goes up.  It 
seems to me this may add some additional prebend to the mast?  Does it have to 
be used in conjunction with the hydraulic backstay tensioner?  Is this a 
possible way to bend the mast and flatten the main without decreasing head stay 
sag so much?  Looking for some tips on optimal ways to use this equipment.  My 
approach so far has just been to set it to "just taught" amount of tension and 
leaving it, pulling it a little tighter upwind when it really starts to blow, 
but primarily relying on the backstay to fatten the upper main upwind.  Thanks. 
 Erik___
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Re: Stus-List Question on C&C 35 MKIII

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

1984 C&C 35 MKIII - Is this boat solid or cored below the waterline?
 
Erik
 


 From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 11:00 AM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 95, Issue 13
  

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail ) (Dr. Mark Bodnar)
   2. Re:  Stiff throttle - now control handles (Dennis C.)
   3. Re:  Halyard Tension (Ronald B. Frerker)
   4. Re:  Stiff throttle and belt recommendations for Yamar 2GM20
      on cnc 30 mkII (Richard N. Bush)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2013 11:44:58 -0400
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail )
Message-ID: <529dfc7a.1000...@accesswave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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--

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 07:45:51 -0800 (PST)
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stiff throttle - now control handles
Message-ID:
    <1386085551.45940.yahoomail...@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

For anyone who might need them, I have a pair of new Edson pedestal mount 
engine control handles.? Just the handles, not the assembly.? 

Contact me off list if interested.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: "dre...@gmail.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 9:18 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Stiff throttle
> 
>
>
>Hi,
>
>
>I had a cable once that was also painfully stiff to a point that I broke the 
>handle trying to move it. ? It turned out that cable housing was split at a 
>point near the middle of the cable which allowed the inner cable to corrode at 
>that location. ? A new cable and self-manufactured handle fixed it. ? ? ?You 
>may want to check along the cable bends for split cable housings and replace. 
>? ?
>
>
>On another boat, I once saw a stiff cable caused by an over tight clamp near 
>the injector. ?It was fixed just by loosening the clamp a bit.?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-
>Paul E.
>1979 C&C 29 Mk1
>S/V Johanna Rose
>Carrabelle, FL 
>
>On Dec 3, 2013, at 9:07 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 22:03:28 -0800
>>From:?kevindrisc...@gmail.com
>>To:?cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Stus-List Stiff throttle and belt recommendations for Yamar 2GM20on 
>>cnc 30 mkII
>>
>>
>>(4) - The throttle is painfully stiff to the point I almost need two hands to 
>>move it. Is there an easy ?lubrication point to get it moving again till I 
>>can replace the cable?
>>Thanks everybody.?
>>Kevin
>>
>>s/v Osprey?
>>
>>C&C 30 mkII
>>Pic from 
>>Thanksgiving:?https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwhcX19YaPJ8QWtlbGE2NzhYRzQ/edit?usp=docslist_api
>>Sent from my Tablet
>>
>
>___
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>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 08:37:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyard Tension
Message-ID:
    <1386088622.52181.yahoomail...@web122901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

While halyard tension doesn't affect draft as much on the sail as on a dacron 
sail, the tension does change the angle of attach of the jib entry. ?It will 
open and close with tension.
Ron
Wild Cheri




On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 7:27 AM, "Hoyt, Mike"  
wrote:

Sam
?
Draft still moves.? Also some of us like to ease main 
halyard tension downwind and tighten upwind.? On the C&C115 with North 
3DL we have always used halyard, cunningham, outhaul to adjust sail shape along 
with other controls as well.? With the replacement of main and #1 with new 
3DL this year we still continue to use these.? On the #1 we do not adjust 
the tension as much as we used to with the old one.? With teh main we do 
adjust as much as with the old one.
?
?
Mike



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cn

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Keith,
 
The tanks are empty, I never filled them.  The water is crystal clear (thanks 
to Zebra mussels) Lake Michigan water - no fuel, oil, etc.
 
I am not completely convinced it isn't finding it's way to the stringer from 
elsewhere, but I just can't prove it.  I've removed all the floor boards and 
the the thing is just bone dry everywhere except inside that limber hole.  in 
fact, if i stick my finger in the cutout in the stringer for the bilge hose, 
which is several inches to port of the limber hole it is dry, so it almost has 
to be coming from below.
 
My shower pump was straight forward, hose from the shower sump to a pump under 
the sink and up to a thru hull at the toe rail.  I disabled this yesterday 
because i installed an automatic bilge pump and float switch to keep up with 
the water and the only above the water line thru hull available was the shower 
drain pump - i don't use it anyway.  In off season I'll maybe add a thru hull 
and reattach it.
 
Thanks for the input!  Any opinion on tightening keel bolts in the water - I 
cannot get a conclusive answer on this.  Some sources say do it and some say 
never.  I've seen it argued on several forums, but haven't formed my own 
opinion yet...
 
Thanks,
 
Erik
 


 From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR" 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  

Erik,

I've been mulling over your situation.

Here's my thoughts:

You indicate that it seems like the water is originating from somewhere
*inside* the stringer. We know that there are no keel bolts in there,
nor are there any openings to the ocean there...and it's in front of the
last keel bolt, so it seems unlikely (to me) that it's a grounding
problem.
So...where would water come from *inside* the stringer?

On my 35-3, they've run all the water hoses/pipes thru large holes in
the stringers, drilled maybe 1" or so down from the top.
If one of those pipes has a weeping leak where it passes over the
perhaps sharp edge of the hole drilled, it could seem like the water is
originating in there.  Then gravity just makes the water tanks drip into
the bilge.
It's been a few days...at 2.5 gallons a day, your water tanks should be
noticeably low if this was the source. To test, put two different food
colors (or two different liquors) in the tanks, and close the valves at
the water pump so they aren't cross-connected, then wait it out. What
color/taste is the bilge?

Another possibility along these lines is an extra bilge pump pickup...on
my 35-3 there is a shower sump pump for the shower in the head. But
somewhere along the line (maybe at the factory) they put a 3-way valve
in, then ran a hose thru the bilge to a point between the mast and
engine, and there is a pickup there too. (it's my "aft" bilge pump
pickup)
If this was deranged like above (leaky hose/fitting), or if there was
some sort of siphon being set up from the shower to the bilge via the
overboard lines? It's a stretch...but maybe. 

-Keith Morgenstern
C&C 35-3 cb


-Original Message-
From: Erik Hillenmeyer [mailto:erik_hawk...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 17:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Hello,

Been following on here for a while but never posted.

I have a new-to-me 1984 C&C 35 MKIII on Lake Michigan.  When we launched
six days ago I noticed a large amount of water in the bilge when I would
go to the boat.  Approximately 2.5 gallons every 24 hours.  I have
narrowed the leak down to what I assume is a hull/keel joint issue.  

After checking all the obvious sources for this much water (thru hull,
tanks, etc, etc) I finally noticed that all the water was coming from a
limber hole in the stringer just forward of the aft most keel bolt.  The
water is NOTcoming out this limber hole because it's flowing through
there from a higher point in the bilge - it's flooding up from
underneath the stringer.  The bilge area aft of this stringer is dusty
dry and I've elminated all other sources of water.

The first thing I'm in the process of doing is installing an automatic
bilge pump and float switch (PO never had one).  

I also plan on tightening the keel bolts as soon as I get access to a
torque wrench and an extension that can reach the 2 feet to the deepest
part of the sump where one of the keel bolts is located.  I'm hoping
this is some help in stopping or reducing the leak.  The sailing season
is very short here and hauling out now would cost us a big chunk of
sailing, so I'm willing to try anything to stay in.

I've thrown this out on some other blogs, but wanted to know if other
C&C owners have experienced this issue or have some solutions for
getting her through the season.

Thanks,

Erik___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Rick,
 
the 35-3 bilge (on the keel model at least) has a very deep sump, almost 2 feet 
at the deepest.  No plug on the boat.
 
I'll ask the PO if he made any enemies at the yard, haha.  Or maybe the broker 
was made he dropped his selling price so much for me :-)
 
 
 


 From: Rick Taillieu 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 11:57 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


Erik,
 
I don’t know what the 35 Mk3 bilge looks like or how deep it is, but is it 
possible that there was a “Garboard Plug” put in to drain water from the bilge 
when the boat is out of the water?
If there is, and the plug wasn’t tightened it could leak enough to cause the 
amount of water you see, if there was no plug you would definitely see the leak.
Another possible answer is that the previous owner really PO’d someone and they 
drilled a small hole into the bilge. J
 
Good Luck
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer
Sent: May-21-13 4:25 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 
The leaks appears to be directly underneath the stringer.  in fact, if you 
stick your finger down in the limber hole you can feel the squishiness of the 
stringer core that is being washed away (i've pulled out little pieces of it).  
I'm assuming this foam material indicates the core is inactive.  I've tried 
several times to completely dry this out by sponging out that void with paper 
towels or a sponge and then try and feel the trickle, but this hasn't proved 
very effective.
 
I spent the winter rebedding portlights, grab rails, etc that were all leaking 
and had rain water intrusion pretty much licked by launch time.  I am 
definitely seeing this without rain.  I manually pumped it out, left the boat 
and came back 24 hours later (no rain, no running the engine) and took a 
measurment of the water level.  I then pumped it out again and took a bucket 
and refilled it to where it was when I pumped out - 2.5 gallons.  
 
Unfortunately, I can't see inside the stringer beyond what I can see looking 
into the limber hole.  Without cutting into the stringer and removing that foam 
I don't think I'm going to see the actual leak - unless anyone has some 
suggestions.___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

The leaks appears to be directly underneath the stringer.  in fact, if you 
stick your finger down in the limber hole you can feel the squishiness of the 
stringer core that is being washed away (i've pulled out little pieces of it).  
I'm assuming this foam material indicates the core is inactive.  I've tried 
several times to completely dry this out by sponging out that void with paper 
towels or a sponge and then try and feel the trickle, but this hasn't proved 
very effective.
 
I spent the winter rebedding portlights, grab rails, etc that were all leaking 
and had rain water intrusion pretty much licked by launch time.  I am 
definitely seeing this without rain.  I manually pumped it out, left the boat 
and came back 24 hours later (no rain, no running the engine) and took a 
measurment of the water level.  I then pumped it out again and took a bucket 
and refilled it to where it was when I pumped out - 2.5 gallons.  
 
Unfortunately, I can't see inside the stringer beyond what I can see looking 
into the limber hole.  Without cutting into the stringer and removing that foam 
I don't think I'm going to see the actual leak - unless anyone has some 
suggestions.
 
 
 
  

____
 From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


 
If you are having the volume of water you have described 
accumulating each day you should be able to see the leak.  I would bail and 
then spong out the leak and remove every floorboard or access panel you can so 
that you can see the trickles of water coming in.  All of this is assuming 
that it has not been raining where you are the past week. 
  
The keel moves a lot when sailing and most keel bolts do seem 
to loosen with time.  Our first boat had water in bilge by middle of season 
and I sponged out the bilge only to notoce the water was seeping in around one 
keel bolt.  I bought the appropirate sized sockets and tightened all the 
bolts while in the water and the leak stopped.  On haulout at end of season 
we notciced there was play in the keel and after that dropped and rebedded the 
keel. 
  
On our next boat we accumulated water again.  this time 
it was from rainwater and leaks and around mast etc ... many many hours worth 
of 
rebedding everything and the boat is dry. 
  
Hopefully the 35-3 allows you to see the inside of the hull 
aft of that stringer so you can see where the water is coming 
from.



 From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 12:00 PM
To: dwight 
veinot; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 
Leak

  
I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone 
dry.  Also water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear 
perfectly sealed.  This water accumulates after a day on the can, without 
running the engine or sailing. 
  
Erik Hillenmeyer 
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot 
Chicago, IL 
 

________
From: dwight veinot 

To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' 
; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 
AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 
Leak
 


 
Are you sure it’s not 
the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section 
was dry which would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in 
case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell 
after long winter storage. 
  
Dwight 
Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, 
Alianna 
Head of St. 
Margaret's Bay, NS 
  

____
 
From:CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 
Leak 
  
The previous 
owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the water.  
I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding either.  I 
know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in 
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the 
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his 
last season with it?   
  
   


 
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message.
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05/21/13___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Tom,
 
She was stored in her own cradle at Crowley's.  I did have a survey done before 
I purchased her and he mentioned nothing.  I was there when the survey done.  
It was done in the yard so he could do all the inspecting of the keel he needed 
too.  I have tried closing all seacocks ( i did leave scuppers open) when 
leaving the boat for a day and that had no effect.  I've pretty thoroughly 
inspected all thru hulls and see nothing coming in.
 
Thanks,
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII
Chicago, IL  
 


 From: Thomas Mikos 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


Hi Erik, 

Since the boat was in storage for 18 months you have to ask the following 
questions. How was she stored, on her own cradle or jack stands. On solid 
surface or ground with shifting. Assume the boat was surveyed and the findings 
of the survey may help. Also assume you have all seacocks closed with the 
exception of the cockpit drains. The cockpit drains have worked off my boat 
during winter; so it is an area that I monitor carefully before launch. 

Also I have replaced two hoses on my boat , both involving the sink drains. 
just a heads up there. My boat is similar to yours. 

Tom 
Escape 
C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana


 

____
 From: Erik Hillenmeyer 
To: dwight veinot ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL
 

________
 From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


 
Are you sure it’s not the prop
shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section was dry which
would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in case.   Sometimes
a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell after long winter storage. 
  
Dwight Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS  
  


  
From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak  
  
The
previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his
last season with it?    
   
   


  
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13   

   
___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL
 


 From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


 
Are you sure it’s not the prop
shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section was dry which
would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in case.   Sometimes
a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell after long winter storage. 
  
Dwight Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS  
  


  
From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak  
  
The
previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his
last season with it?    
   
   


  
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13   ___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the 
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding either. 
 I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in the water...  I'm 
wondering what happened in those 18 months on the hard to create leak of this 
size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his last season with it?  

 

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Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Hello,
 
Been following on here for a while but never posted.
 
I have a new-to-me 1984 C&C 35 MKIII on Lake Michigan.  When we launched six 
days ago I noticed a large amount of water in the bilge when I would go to the 
boat.  Approximately 2.5 gallons every 24 hours.  I have narrowed the leak down 
to what I assume is a hull/keel joint issue.  
 
After checking all the obvious sources for this much water (thru hull, tanks, 
etc, etc) I finally noticed that all the water was coming from a limber hole in 
the stringer just forward of the aft most keel bolt.  The water is NOTcoming 
out this limber hole because it's flowing through there from a higher point in 
the bilge - it's flooding up from underneath the stringer.  The bilge area aft 
of this stringer is dusty dry and I've elminated all other sources of water.
 
The first thing I'm in the process of doing is installing an automatic bilge 
pump and float switch (PO never had one).  
 
I also plan on tightening the keel bolts as soon as I get access to a torque 
wrench and an extension that can reach the 2 feet to the deepest part of the 
sump where one of the keel bolts is located.  I'm hoping this is some help in 
stopping or reducing the leak.  The sailing season is very short here and 
hauling out now would cost us a big chunk of sailing, so I'm willing to try 
anything to stay in.
 
I've thrown this out on some other blogs, but wanted to know if other C&C 
owners have experienced this issue or have some solutions for getting her 
through the season.
 
Thanks,
 
Erik___
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